A
VISIT
TO
THE SOUTH SEAS,
IN THE UNITED STATES' SHIP VINCENNES, DURING THE YEARS 1829 AND 1830;
INCLUDING
SCENES
IN BRAZIL, PERU, MANILLA, THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE, AND ST HELENA.
BY C. S. STE ^ART, A.M.,
CHAPLAIN IN THE UNITED STATES' NAVT.
" A principal fruit of these circuits of the globe seems likely to be the amusement c f those that stay at home."
COVFPBR'S CORRBSPONDBNCB.
IN TWO VOLUMES. VOL. II.
^
LONDON: \C v
HENRY COLBURN AND RICHARD BENTLEY,
NEW BUELINGTON STREET.
MDCCCXXXII.
G. WOODFALL, ANGEI. COURT, SKINNER STREET, LONDON.
CONTENTS
OF
THE SECOND VOLUME.
LETTER XXXV. i
ARRIVAL AT TAHITI.
Page THE Low Islands.— Scenery of Matavai. — Boarded by a
Native, and bring Ship to Anchor. — Appearance of the Peo- ple and Effect of the Music.— Ellis's Polynesian Researches. 1
LETTER XXXVI.
HARBOUR OF PAPEETE-
Scenery along Shore.— Sketch of Papeete.— Mr. and Mrs. Pritchard. — Plantation of Mr. Bicknell. — Turnpike at Ta- hiti.— Royal Residence and Tomb of Pomare. — Schools at the Missionary Stations 9
LETTER XXXVII.
A TAHITIAN SABBATH.
Sabbath School at Matavai.— Public Worship and Ob- servance of the Sabbath 18
LETTER XXXVIIL
VISIT TO EIMEO, AND ARRIVAL AT THE SOCIETY ISLANDS.
Papetoai and Afareaitu. — Return to Matavia. — Island of Huahine. — Arrival and Anchorage at Raiatea. — Mission- house 22
IV CONTENTS.
LETTER XXXIX.
INTERVIEW WITH THE KING TAMATOA, AND A SABBATH AT RAIATEA.
Page
Residence of the King. — Queen of Raiatea and King Ta- matoa. — The Queen's Cottage and Household. — Sabbath and Communion service 29
LETTER XL.
AUDIENCE WITH THE QUEEN OF TAHITI, AND VISIT OF THE CHIEFS ON BOARD SHIP.
Royal Party. — Shrewdness of the Regent. — Meeting of the Landowners and Speech of Uaeva.— Reception on board Ship. — Governess of Huahine 36
LETTER XLI.
COMMUNICATION OF POMARE VAHINE I. TO THE PRESIDENT.
Letter of the Queen to the President. — Religious Confer, ence and Speech of a Church Member 43
LETTER XLII.
DEPARTURE FOR THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
General Aspect of Borabora, — Misrepresentations of the State of the Islands. —Contrast between their former and present Condition 47
LETTER XLIII.
ARRIVAL AT THE ISLAND OF HAWAII. First Sight of Hawaii. — Land in a small Boat 54
CONTENTS V
LETTER XLIV.
VISIT ON SHORE, AND DESCRIPTION OF THE
SCENERY.
Page
Reception of Mr. Goodrich.— Garden at the Mission-house. — Greetings of the Islanders. — Entrance to the Bay and surrounding Scenery 57
LETTER XLV.
A WORSHIPPING ASSEMBLY AT HIDO.
Scene on the Sabbath Morning,— Aspect of the Congrega- tion.— Evidences of the Power of the Gospel. — Interesting case of Attention in an Elderly Female 63
LETTER XLVI.
JOURNEY TO THE VOLCANO OF KIRAUEA, AND AN ACCOUNT OF ITS PRESENT STATE.
Preparations for leaving the Ship. — Residence of Kinai, Head Man of Ora. — Arrival at the Crater. — Evening Scene and Lodgings. — Crater at Midnight. — Morning Walk. — Singular Provision of Water. — Descent of the First Cliff. — Glen within the Crater. — Changes on the Ledge. — Descent to the Bottom. — Examination of two Cones. — Temerity and Dangerous Feat of an Islander. — Sublime Night-scene. — Pedestrians in a Storm 72
LETTER XL VII.
CASCADE OF THE RAINBOW.
Ramble along the Wairuku. — Circumstances of a fatal Casualty. — Description of the Cascade.— Adjoining Scenery TJa
LETTER XLVIII.
THE HEREDITARY AND LAST PRIESTESS OF PELE.
Personal Appearance of the Priestess. — Instance of affected Inspiration Conversion to Christianity.— Former Sacri-
a3
VI CONTENTS.
Page fices to Pele. — Total Subversion of the Heathenism of the
Country 100
LETTER XLIX.
FIRST INTERVIEW WITH THE MISSIONARIES AT OAHU.
Departure from Byron's Bay. — Aspect of Oahu. — Arrival and Landing. — Improvements in Honolulu. — Meeting with the Missionaries 10?
LETTER L.
RECEPTION OF CAPTAIN FINCH AND PARTY, BY THE KING AND REGENT.
Interchange of Salutes — Walk to the King's Residence. — Description of the Palace and its Furniture. — Dress of the King. — Presentation. — Address of Captain Finch. — Letter of the Secretary of the Navy. — Delivery of the Presents. — Personal Appearance of the King 113
LETTER LI.
A MORNING VISIT TO THE PRINCIPAL CHIEFS.
Evening Prayer Meeting. — Letter of the Regent. — Keku- anaoa, and his Residence. — Principal Apartment. — Kekau- ruohe and Kanaina. — Residence of Kaahumanu. — Present and former State 128
LETTER LII.
EVENING DRIVE AND VISIT TO THE VALLEY OF MANOA.
Evening Scene. — Equipage of the American Consul and others taking the Air. — Country-house of Kaahumanu, and the Prophet's Chamber 137
CONTENTS. Vll
LETTER LIII.
EDICT OF THE KING IN ANSWER TO A MEMORIAL
OF THE BRITISH RESIDENTS.
Page Importance of a Newspaper at the Islands. — Necessity of
new Laws. — Legislative Enactments. — Ancient Usage in Re- spect to the Trespass of Animals. — Case of Oppressive Treat- ment by Foreigners. — Rehearsal of the Laws. — Answer to the Memahaluts 142
LETTER LIV.
VISIT AT LAHAIXA IN MAITI.
Preparations for a Voyage to Maui. — Arrival and Reception by the Chiefs and People. — The Princess Harieta.— The Chief of Waeruku and his Wife — Gifts of Affection by the People. — Residence of the Richards.— College of Maaro. — New Chapel. — Country-honse of Kekauonohi. — Return to Oahu 153
LETTER LV.
VISIT OF CAPTAIN FINCH TO THE PRINCESS, AND ENTERTAINMENT OF THE CHIEFS ON BOARD SHIP.
Interview of Captain Finch with the Princess and the Wind- ward Chiefs — Kapiolani, Wife of Naihe, the National Coun- sellor.—Dresses of the Chiefs, and Entertainment on board ship 1 65
LETTER LVI.
GENERAL EXAMINATION OF THE SCHOOLS OF OAHU.
Elementary Knowledge, and Fondness of the Natives for Arithmetic. — Appearance of the Scholars in the Chapel. — Aboriginal Display of the Princess and Ex-Queen. — Gift of the Princess to Captain Finch. — Imposing Aspect of a Na- tive Procession 171
Vlll CONTENTS.
LETTER LVII.
AN EVENING MEETING AND SABBATH SCENES.
Page Natives assembling for Worship. — An Albino and a Blind
Man. — Evidences of Piety among the Islanders. — Public Professions and Baptism of Infants. — Administration of the Sacrament 181
LETTER LVIII.
DETRACTION AND CALUMNY OF FOREIGN RESIDENTS.
Defamation of the Princess. — Report of it to her Guardians. — Council, and Letter of the Chiefs. — Answer of Captain Finch. — Advice of Foreigners on the Subject of Marriage. — Source of the Detraction of Voyagers. — False Represent- ations of Residents. — Statements of Captains Beechey and Kotzebue. — Mr. Bingham and his Associates. — Mental and moral Worth.. 1JJO
LETTER LIX.
GOVERNMENT DEBT, AND STATE OF COMMERCE.
Visit of the Missionaries. — Commercial Arrangements. — In- crease of Trade.— Official Letter of the American Consul.. . 210
LETTER LX.
A RIDE TO THE COUNTRY HOUSE OF GOVERNOR BOKI, AND EVENING ENTERTAINMENT BY THK KING.
Invitation by Governor Boki. — Equipage of the Regent. — The General Cavalcade. — Horsemanship of the King. — New Turnpike. — Battle-ground. — Scenery of the Valley and En- campment of the Governor. — Entertainment and Course of the Shrimp. — Supper at the Palace 219
CONTENTS. IX
LETTER LXI.
SECOND VISIT TO LAHAINA.
Page Chiefs and their Luggage.— Arrival at Lahaina. — Letter of
the Princess to Mrs. Stewart 231
LETTER LXII.
THREE DAYS AT KEARAKEKUA AND KAAVAROA.
Reception at Kaavaroa by Kapiolani. — Visit at Kairua. — Grave of Mrs. Bishop — Preaching in a Grove — Sabbath Evening Scene. — Party on board Ship. — Wife of King Ta- raiopu. — Autobiography by Kapiolani. — Farewell at Kaava- roa 236
LETTER LXIII.
PRIVATE LETTER OF CAPTAIN FINCH TO THE KING.
Notes of the King and Madame Boki. — Interpretation of the names of the Chiefs. — Private Letter of Captain Finch to the King 248
LETTER LXIV.
JOINT LETTER OF THE MISSIONARIES TO CAP- TAIN FINCH, WITH HIS ANSWER 256
LETTER LXV.
DEPARTURE FROM OAHU, AND LETTER OF THE KING TO THE PRESIDENT 264
LETTER LXVI.
RETROSPECTIWE VIEW OF THE VISIT AT THE SANDWICH ISLANDS, BT CAPTAIN FINCH
X CONTENTS.
LETTER LXVII.
INCIDENTS AT SEA.
Page
Death and Burial at Sea. — Crew of the Vincennes 283
LETTER LXVIII.
ARRIVAL IN THE CHINESE SEA.
Gathering of a Storm. — Christmas-eve at Sea. — Ladrone and Bashee Islands 287
LETTER LXIX.
CASUALTIES OFF THE COAST OF CHINA.
Unhappy Accident. — Fishing Junks. — First Sight of the Chinese. — Aspect of the Islands 290
LETTER LXX.
VISIT AT MACAO AND CANTON.
Dr. and Mrs. Morrison. —Cave of Camoens. —Party to Canton 294
LETTER LXXI.
DESCRIPTION OF THE BAY AND CITY OF MANILLA.
View of Manilla and First Sight of Shore. — Drive on the Calzada. — Native Troops and Music 297
LETTER LXXII.
EVENING SCENES AT A CATHOLIC FESTIVAL, AND CALL UPON A NATIVE FAMILY.
Illuminations. — Indian Cottages. — Costume of the Native Inhabitants. — Familv Scene 302
CONTENTS. XI
LETTER LXXIII.
A VILLAGE FETE.
Page Ride to Santa Anna. — Description of the Bankas, or Native
Canoes. — Scenery on the River Pasig. — Village of Pasig. — Return to Manilla 307
LETTER LXXIV.
THE CAMPO SANTO, OR PANTHEON, THE PUBLIC BURIAL-PLACE.
Santa Magdalena. — Chapel of the Pantheon. — Depository of Bones.— The Calzada 315
LETTER LXXV.
DESCRIPTION OF CAPE TOWN.
Call on the Governor, Sir Lowry Cole. — Public Gardens. — Dr. Philip 320
LETTER LXXVI.
A RIDE TO CONSTANTIA, AND AN EVENING AT PROTEA, THE COTTAGE OF SIR LOWRY COLE.
Ride to Constantia. — The Silver Tree. — Upper Constantia. — Lower Constantia. — Ride to Protea. — Family of the Go- vernor.— Lady Francis Cole. — Lady Catharine Bell 324
LETTER LXXVII.
ARRIVAL AT ST. HELENA, AND INTERVIEW WITH GOVERNOR DALLAS.
First View of St. Helena. — Description of James Town. — Reception by Governor Dallas 332
Xll CONTENTS.
LETTER LXXVIII.
THE TOMB OF NAPOLEON, LONGWOOD, AND PLAN- TATION HOUSE.
Page Tomb of Napoleon. — Arrival at Longwood. — Bed -room of
the Emperor. — Reading and Drawing-rooms. — Billiard and Drawing-rooms. — New Longwood-liouse. — Road across the Island.— Plantation-house.— The Dallas Family 337
POSTSCRIPT 349
APPENDIX.
Manuscript left at Nukuhiva by Captain Finch 356
Summary of the Cruise by Captain Finch 358
VISIT
THE SOUTH SEAS.
THE GEORGIAN AND SOCIETY ISLANDS.
LETTER XXXV.
AHRTVAL AT TAHITI.
The Low Islands. — Scenery of Matavai. — Boarded by a Native, and bring1 ship to anchor. — Appearance of the People and effect of the Music — Ellis's Polynesian Re^ searches.
Matavai Bay at Tahiti, August 17, 1829.
A CLUSTER of low islands and coral reefs lies about midway, in a direct line, between the Wash- ington and Georgian groups, rendering the naviga- tion at that point somewhat intricate and dan- gerous. From a supposition that we might be obliged to lie to at night when in that vicinity, we did not expect to accomplish the passage from Nukuhiva to Tahiti — a distance of seven hundred miles — in much less time than a week.
In this, however, we were favourably disappointed.
VOL. II. &
2 THE LOW ISLANDS.
The trade wind proved unusually fine ; and having- made the first of the low islands early on the 14th instant — the second day from Taiohae — we suc- ceeded in running1 by the whole chain the same evening, and,, with an open sea before us, hastened on our course with unchecked speed.
Five of the low islands — the Tikoas, the Palliser, andElizabeth Island — were passed by us within two or three miles of their shores. Elevated a few feet only above the water, scarce in sight at a distance of six and eight miles, and but scantily tufted with groves of the cocoanut and pandanus, they present a strong contrast to the loftiness and magnificent scenery of the groups between which they lie. Though small — some fifteen or twenty miles only in circumference — they are inhabited : but the sub- sistence they afford is scanty and miserable, con- sisting almost exclusively, besides fish from the sea, of cocoanuts and the berry of the pandanus.
Happily for the race dwelling upon them, though reduced in their outward circumstances almost to the condition of the brute, the rich blessing of the gos- pel has reached their desolate shores. Through the influence of native missionaries from Tahiti, they have, within a few years, forsaken their idols and embraced the religion of the cross — have learn-
O
ed to read — possess the scriptures in the Tahitian version — and daily pay their vows to God by hymns and prayer, in neat and humble chapels of their own workmanship.
On Saturday, the 15th instant, at twelve o'clock, we descried Matea, or the Island of Osnaburgh-*-
SCENERY AT MATAVAI. 3
having run some distance from our course to make it. Perceiving it to be only a lofty, volcanic rock, rising abruptly from the water in a truncated cone — once evidently a burning funnel — we did not ap- proach nearer than twelve or fifteen miles; and bore away for Tahiti, the principal of the Georgian Islands, of which we gained an indistinct view, forty miles distant, at sunset the same evening.
Having been under short sail during the night, we were yesterday morning still far from land; and it was ten o'clock before we were near enough to
O
Point Venus to send a boat on shore, previously to bringing the ship to anchor.
The morning was hazy and unfavourable for the strength of impression which the sublimity and loveliness of the scenery is calculated to make.
In this — particularly in reference to my fellow- voyagers — I felt a disappointment. The image left in my mind, by a first sight of the same section of Tahiti in 1825, when on our voyage from the Sand- wich Islands to England, was still so beautiful and so vivid, that I had hoped every circumstance, in making the land at this time, would have been equally propitious to a similar effect on those now with me. Scarce any scene before beheld had excited an admiration equal to that! then experienced. We had not yet made land, xvhen I retired to rest the night previous ; a fine moon, however, enabled us to press on without hazard ; and, at the dawn of the day, we were close on the shores of the district of Matavai. It was not yet sunrise when I went on deck ; but the whole heavens were filled with the
B2
4 BOARDED BY A NATIVE,
glow and richness of the near approach of (( the kin«- of day," and sufficient light was already cast upon the island, not only to disclose its general for- mation, but to present every distinct feature along the coast and in the mountains above, in- the fulness of its verdure and beauty. The wild peaks and bare cliffs towering high in the centre of the island were uncovered, and in strong illumination from the sun, still beneath a watery bed. A belt of vapourish cloud hung midway on the purple sides of the moun- tains beneath, while the rich lowland — a mile and more in width — intervening between their bases and the beach, heavily covered with groves of the bread- fruit, cocoanut, and other luxuriant tropical growth, stood in the purity of the morning, with a refreshing nearness and beauty on the sight.
Spacious chapels of the purest white, with nu- merous lofty doors and windows — seeming in my eye, after a residence of three years at the Sandwich Islands, in the early stages of improvement there, like so many palaces amidst their palmy groves — were seen, at intervals of two and three miles, along the water's edge, while the plastered and whitened habitations of the missionaries and chieftains, and cne cottages of the common people, studded the shores in long perspective, till, at a distance of five and six miles on either side, low points, richly covered with cocoanut trees, terminated the view.
The most conspicuous objects were now still the same; but, with a noon-day sun and misty atmo- sphere, they were seen under every disadvantage of shade and colouring, and excited a less lively
AND BRING SHIP TO ANCHOR. 5
admiration, than they otherwise would have
While two or three miles from Point Venus,, we were boarded by a boat containing' one of the infe- rior magistrates of the district, in a dress of nankeen pantaloons, round jacket of blue silk, white shirt, and black cravat, with a Guayaquil hat. He intro- duced himself with great civility, and tendered his services to pilot the ship into the bay ; but Captain Finch learning from him that there was a regular pilot appointed by the government, declined the offer till he should come off, and till Mr. Lardner, our sailing-master, should go in with a cutter and make some observation for himself, as to the best anchorage.
In the meantime a boat was lowered, and Lieu- tenant Dornin dispatched on a visit to the Rev. Mr. Wilson, the resident missionary at Matavai. Hav- ing a slight personal acquaintance with Mr. Wil- son, I accompanied him. We were received very kindly by this gentleman on the beach, and accom- panied him to his cottage, a few rods distant, on the bank of a considerable river, running from the mountains through this part of the district. Finding him at leisure to go off to the ship, and knowing that our return would be looked for with impatience, after an introduction to Mrs. Wilson and her daugh- ters, and a few moments' conversation, we took our leave till the Vincennes should be at anchor.
The trade-wind was blowing very fresh, with a heavy sea for a small boat, and the row-off was te- dious and unpleasant • we reached the ship without
6 GENERAL APPEARANCE OF
accident, however, and the pilot having- at the same time joined her, we passed round the Dolphin — as a shoal, extending from Point Venus some distance along the shore, is called — and dropped anchor in- side of it, within a mile of the beach, nearly oppo- site a high red bank, called " one tree hill."
Mr. Wilson remained to dinner with the captain, and then landed to secure permission from the proper authorities for the interment of a lad who had died on board, the night previous, of a con- sumption. Some objection was at first made by the natives, lest the disease with which he had died might have been contagious ; but when assured that this was not the case, a grave was prepared in the burial-ground of the chapel ; in which, at sunset, with slow procession and an admonitory service, we deposited the body— there to rest till " time shall be no longer."
I remained at Mr. Wilson's to tea, in company with the captain and surgeon ; and passed most of the evening at'his cottage, in agreeable conversa- tion. It was nine o'clock before we returned to the ship ; the row- off was delightful — a fine moon throwing a double charm,, by its brightness, over the loveliness of the scenery around.
From an early hour in the morning till noon to- day, the Vincennes was crowded with people from the shore, bringing various articles of refreshment and curiosity, for trade and barter. Ignorant of the comparative value of the articles they have to dispose of, and those they wish to secure, and anxious to make the exchange at the highest rate
THE PEOPLE AND EFFECT OF THE MUSIC. 7
of gain on their part, the exorbitance of their de- mands and their seeming cupidity are in some cases such,, as to be exceedingly vexatious to those at- tempting to deal with them ; but, there is nothing of the wild shouting, rudeness, and nakedness, so annoying at Nukuhiva — nor any thing in their whole appearance that is offensive, or indicative of any trait of character not to be found in every market-place in a civilized and Christian country. The effect produced on them by our band, in comparison with that on the Nukuhivans, was very striking, and very pleasing. It is long since they have acquired a taste for the combination of sounds characterizing the music of European countries ; and since, they have learned themselves to sing various parts in sacred music, with correctness and some degree of taste. Though the Nukuhivans would listen to the band for a first time, with a kind of wonder and momentary gratification, it was evi- dent they had no particular relish for the style of music, or harmony of sounds produced by it ; and, doubtless, thought it unequal, in the pleasure it afforded, to the monotonous beat of the drum, and the dull recitative of their own songs — but here, when the musicians were ordered on deck, hundreds clustered round in the manifest expectation of a rich enjoyment ; and the moment they commenced playing, they hung in the rigging and upon the guns, in a silent delight, which none could avoid ob- serving ; while many evidently drank in the strains of varied harmony, with all the luxury of enjoy- ment of so many amateurs at home, at the perform- ance of the first masters in the country.
8 ELLIS'S POLYNESIAN RESEARCHES.
During the forenoon we had a visit from the chief justice of the island — a respectable-looking1, well- dressexl , and dignified old man — at present at Mata- vai for the trial of several persons accused of sedi- tion. He held a court at sunrise this morning* which I should have been glad to have attended, had I been apprized of it in time. Two or three persons wrere convicted of the transgression of spe- cial laws., and received the sentence annexed to the respective statutes broken.
You are aware, that before the death of Pomare II., in 18*21, a regular code of laws — including an equitable judiciary, and the important right of trial by jury — adapted to the state into which the nation had been brought by a conversion from paganism to Christianity, was drawn up by the Rev. Mr. Nott, one of the first missionaries that came to the islands, and adopted by the king and whole body^of chiefs in public council. Every law has a specific penalty attached — rendering the administration of justice, after the guilt of a person is established, perfectly equal : no discretion being left to the judge, in a modification of the sentence. The rehearsal of the law and its penalty, both of which are familiar to the person under trial — as every family is furnished with a printed copy of the code — is the only judg- ment pronounced.
With the " Polynesian Researches" of our be- loved friend Ellis before you, it will be unnecessary, however, for me to enter upon any elucidation of facts of this kind that may come under my notice, during the visit we shall make at the Georgian and Society Islands. The original state of the people
SCENERY ALONG SHORE. 9
as found by the missionaries,, their habits and cus- toms, their religion,, civil polity, and history — in- cluding- the conversion of both groups from idolatry, the establishment of Christianity, and their present condition — are pourtrayed in his volumes with so much talent and such lively interest, with such perfect candour and minute correctness, and in such fulness of information, that I at once refer you to them for every thing connected with this section of the South Seas, except the incidents which may pass under the immediate observation of myself and shipmates, the few days we may remain within its limits.
LETTER XXXVI.
HARBOUR OF PAPEETE.
Scenery along shore. — Sketch of Papeete; Mr. and Mrs.
Pritchard.— Plantation of Mr. Bicknell. — Turnpike at
Tahiti Royal Residence and Tomb of Pomare. —
Schools at the Missionary Stations.
Matavai Bay, at Tahiti, August. 26, 1829.
MR. and Mrs. Wilson and daughters dined with Captain Finch on Monday ; and on Tuesday, a party from the ward-room and steerage, consisting of the Lieutenants Stribling, Dornin, and Lardner, Dr. Wessels, Midshipmen Maury, Keith, Hawkins, and myself, visited the harbour of Papeete, six or seven miles westward of Matavai.
The scenery along the intervening shore, beautiful by nature — both in wild mountain and palmy plain B 3
10 SKETCH OF PAPEETE;,
— is now doubly so, from the neat cottages and lofty chapels, which, at the short intervals of two and three miles, insensibly blend thoughts of civi- lization and piety, with the impressions made on the mind by the luxuriance and grandeur of the natural imagery. We sailed the whole distance within a coral reef, which, shortly after leaving Matavai, lines the coast at half a mile from the beach to the entrance of the harbour, and arrived at Papeete at eleven o'clock.
The bay, about three miles in circumference, is formed by an indenture of the shore between two points covered with groves of cocoanut trees; while the coral reef in front — through which there is an entrance by a narrow ship channel — with a small islet based upon it, protects it so fully from the swell of the sea, that it is at all times as smooth as a lake. The panorama, from the an- chorage, is rich and lovely. A spacious and ele- vated white chapel presents a conspicuous and pleasing object in the centre of the view inland. On one side of this, within a neat inclosure planted with shrubbery, stands the cottage of the resident missionary ; and on the other, corresponding io it, the parish school-house : from both of which the habitations of the natives — some in the primitive and some in the modern style of building — stretch in half embowered perspective along the curvature of the beach, to the cocoanut points, jutting on either hand, at a distance of half a mile or more, in heavy groves towards the reef. Clumps of the orange and lemon tree — of the hibiscus and pan-
MR. AND MRS. PRITCHARD, 11
danus, with rich plantations of the bread-fruit, cocoanut, and broad-leafed banana, and here and there a single tree of the lofty and wide spreading vi — spondias dulcis — fill up the remaining parts of the foreground ; while lofty and abrupt hills, overtopped by bold and verdant mountains, com- plete the sketch interior.
Our party was welcomed on the beach by Mr. Marenhaut, a Dutch gentleman temporarily at Ta- hiti, and by Captain Brock, late commander of an English vessel wrecked on the eastern side of the island — both of whom had visited the Vincennes the first day of her arrival. Learning from them, that the Rev. Mr. Pritchard, the missionary at this station, was quite ill, we accompanied them to their cottage, before calling at the mission-house.
At twelve o'clock, we paid our respects to Mr. and Mrs. Pritchard ; and were delighted with the neatness, taste, and beauty of their humble dwel- ling. Mr. Pritchard, a well-educated and intelli- gent man, though much indisposed, received us with great cordiality and kindness ; and in Mrs. Pritch- ard we were pleased to meet, in this happy and honourable exile, a refined and lovely woman. Their little parlour — though furnished with a plainness and simplicity appropriate to the situation and character of the occupants — wore an aspect of refinement and cultivation that bespoke a fami- liarity with more polished scenes than those in which they are now found. Two fine, healthful, and neatly dressed children, beside their mother on a sofa, added greatly to the charm of a home
12 PLANTATION OF MR. BICKNELL,
scene, so welcome to us, after the exhibitions of heathenism with which we had been conversant at Nukuhiva. An hour passed rapidly away under such circumstances ; when we took leave, to pass over the bay to the islet in front of the harbour, where we had made arrangements to partake a repast, furnished from stores brought with us from the Vincennes.
This is a delightful little spot ; a few rods only in circumference, but covered with groves, in minia- ture, of almost every variety of growth found on the main land. Beneath the thick shade of these, fanned by a refreshing sea breeze, we enjoyed our pic-nic till it became time to return to the ship, as we intended calling on the way at a point two miles above, occupied by Mr. Bicknell, an English planter, and at the missionary station, under th« superin- tendence of the Rev. Mr. Nott, in sight of Matavai.
The habitation of Mr. Bicknell is a respectable new frame building — weather-boarded at the sides and end, with a roof of thatch in the native style — the wooden part being neatly painted in a cream colour, with doors, Venetian blinds, and a covered veranda in green. Within, the arrangement, finish, and furniture, correspond with the neatness, and even elegance, for this part of the world, of the ex- terior: while horses and mules, herds of cattle and flocks of goats in the adjoining enclosures — a sugar mill and boilers, and a warehouse filled with beau- tifully grained sugar, molasses, and rum — testify to the resources and promising circumstances of the proprietor, On landing, in front of the establish-
TURNPIKE AT TAHITI. 13
ment, we were received at the gate and very kindly welcomed by Mr.Bicknell, introduced to Mrs.Bick- nell, and welcomed to the hospitality of his house.
From this point, a part of our number walked along the beach to the residence of Mr. Nott. It was quite dark before we reached his grounds, and we called with the intention of stopping a moment only ; but the kindness and hospitality of himself and wife obliged us to remain to a cup of tea ; and it was late in the evening before, much gratified with our visit, we rejoined our barge, and rowed in safety beneath a lovely sky, the remaining distance to the Yincennes.
On Thursday, I made a second visit to Papeete, with Lieutenants Magruder and Sullivan, and Mid- shipmen Irving, Maury, Taylor, and Anthony. We spent the -day much in the manner of the last ; but in returning young Anthony and myself took a turnpike, whichhasbeen constructed almost entirely around the island — a distance of near a hundred miles — as far as Mr. Nott's, at Pare. This road is a fine and praiseworthy work for such a people — the labour principally of convicts, proved guilty of various breaches of the laws. It is a broad gravel way, extending, for the most part, in a direct line from point to point along the coast, smoothly and well finished, and provided with narrow bridges of plank over the water-courses and streamlets, running from the mountains to the sea. Thickly embowered with luxuriant groves of various trees — skirted here and there with the humble but com- fortable habitations of the islanders — opening oc-
14 ROYAL RESIDENCE AND
casionally upon a bright glade or extensive meadow land,, with fine views of the mountains on one side, and the ocean on the other, it is, in many places, beautiful as a drive in the pleasure grounds of an American mansion., or the park of a gentleman in England.
The distance we travelled over it at this time was about three miles ; and we were treated with great civility and kindness by all whose habitations we passed, and by those met on our way. Within about a mile of Mr. Nott's, a side road leads to the point occupied by the residences of the royal chieftains ; and we turned into it for the purpose of visiting their establishment.
Pomare III., only surviving son of Pomare II., having died in his childhood two years since, while pursuing his education at the South Sea Academy, on the neighbouring island of Eimeo, or Moorea as the natives more frequently call it, was succeeded in the supreme authority of Tahiti, Eimeo, Ta- buae-manu, or Sir George Sanders' Island — which three constitute the Georgian cluster — by an only sister under the style of Pomare Vahine I. of Ta- hiti, or the female Pomare I. of Tahiti. She is now about eighteen, and has been married some years to the eldest son of the prince, or head chief of Tahaa, one of the Society Islands, a hundred miles or more north-west of Tahiti and Eimeo.
Tamatoa, king of Raiatea, the principal island of that group, is the maternal grandfather of the young queen, and she with her husband, mother, and an aunt — both daughters of the king of Raia-
TOMB OF POMARE. 15
tea, and associated in a regency during1 the minority of the queen— is at present on a visit there. We of course did not expect to find any person of much distinction ; and were received by an inferior chief and his wife, left in charge of the establishment during the absence of the party.
These two are a respectable couple of middle age ; and occupy a large, airy, and well-kept house, standing near the sea-side. A Sandwich Island woman is residing with them at present — the wife of an Hawaiian, sent to Tahiti by Governor Boki, of Oahu, as supercargo of the brig Ainoa, in a voyage from which she has just returned to the Sand- wich Islands. The supercargo has remained to dispose of the goods; and is, at present, with the queen's party at the Society Islands, while his wife keeps a shop for the disposal of Chinese goods, blank books, stationery, slates, pencils, &c., and various articles of hardware, all in demand here, and purchased for cocoanut oil and arrow-root. It is not believed, however, from the character of the agent, that this attempt in commercial enter- prize will prove very profitable to the governor. •
The point is covered with majestic and delight- ful groves, beneath which is the habitation of the queen, and the dwellings of her immediate depen- dents. Her house of frame, wattled and plaster- ed, has an entrance hall and four rooms on the ground floor, besides an attic ; and is a neat and comfortable building, but, in the absence of the royal party, unfurnished and shut up.
The mausoleum of Pomare II.— in which the
16 SCHOOLS AT THE
remains of his son Pomare III. are also deposited — like the dwelling of the queen, is a white plas- tered house, in a large enclosure, embowered in the deepest shades of the groves. Near it, a section of the great royal chapel, erected by him after his conversion to Christianity, is still standing ; and is kept in good repair as a school-house. The ori- ginal area of the building was more than seven hundred feet in length, by fifty in breadth.
A short distance farther towards Matavai, on an elevated and conspicuous site, stands the chapel of the Rev. Mr. Nott — a neat, w ell-finished, and even elegant place of worship. It is an oval, ninety- eight feet in length by fifty in breadth, two stories high, with numerous windows furnished with Vene- tian blinds The roof is a beautiful thatch; and the floor, seats, and pulpit neatly wrought from timber of the bread-fruit tree. The whole is of native workmanship ; and would compare to advan- tage, both in appearance and comfort, with most country churches in any part of the United States. We joined the boat again at this spot, and reached the Vinceimes early in the evening.
On a following day, I made the same excursion for a third time, with Captain Finch and a small party. In going we sailed outside the reef, and en- tered the harbour by the ship channel. The only incident of interest, varying this from the preceding visits, was the attendance of an hour at a school under the charge of Mr. Pritchard. The number of scholars was about one hundred and fifty of both sexes, from six to ten and twelve years of age. It
MISSIONARY STATIONS. 17
is established on the monitorial system ; and the ex- hibition made by the pupils of native intelligence, and their proficiency in reading" and writing, in re- hearsing hymns and portions of scripture, in an- swering catechetical questions, and in singing, were such as greatly to interest and gratify us ; and to elicit from Captain Finch — in an address to the scholars, interpreted by Mr. Pritchard — high enco- miums on the attainments they had already made, and warm encouragement to a persevering atten- tion to the means of improvement and intelligence with which they are favoured.
The handwriting of many was quite equal to that of children of the same age in schools in America; and the elder scholars are pursuing an elementary course in arithmetic, geography, and history. Very few district-schools in the interior of our own coun- try, are accommodated with so pleasant, conve- nient, and spacious a school-house; and no school that could be visited would present an appearance of greater neatness in the children, more brightness and happiness of look, modesty of apparel, and order and propriety of deportment. Schools of a similar kind are under the daily superintendence of the missionaries at every station ; and facilities for securing the arts of reading and writing at least, are thus afforded to the whole population.
18 SABBATH SCHOOL
LETTER XXXVII.
A TAHITIAN SABBATH.
Sabbath School at Matavai. — Public Worship and obser- vance of the Sabbath.
Matavai Bay at Tahiti, August 22d, 1829.
THE first missionaries to the Georgian Islands having made the voyage from England by the Cape of Good Hope, without an allowance for the gain of time in sailing eastward, were, on their arrival at Tahiti, a half day and more in advance of visi- tors coming to the islands by Cape Horn. This difference still continues ; and consequently, to-day, though only Saturday, the 22d, in the record on board the Vincennes, is Sunday, the 23d, on shore.
A number of the officers and crew attended the services of Mr. Wilson's chapel, both in the morn- ing and afternoon. The exercises on each occasion were so similar, that I shall speak only of those of the morning worship, which I witnessed, in com- pany with Captain Finch and a party from the ward-room and steerage.
We landed at nine o'clock, previously to which we had seen the people, in large numbers, going to and returning from, a prayer meeting at sunrise. Hearing the sound of recitations in the school-house — a neat and comfortable building between the cot- tage of Mr. Wilson and the chapel — we directed our course to it. A sabbath school, consisting of about one hundred and fifty boys and girls, from the ages
AT MATAVAI. 19
of three and four years to fifteen and seventeen, was here assembled, in \vhich several respectable, mid- dle-aged men acted as teachers and superinten- dents, while others of the same age and character walked along the passages at the sides and centre of the building, holding long, slender rods of the light hibiscus, with which to touch any of the younger scholars, when disposed to be mischievous and troublesome. Many of the parents and friends were also present as spectators.
When we entered, the whole school was repeating the answers of a catechism simultaneously, with great promptitude and correctness. This was fol- lowed by a recitation from the Bible, in which one scholar wrould rehearse a section of a chapter, and another that succeeding — thus alternating from in- dividual to individual, and from class to class, with the greatest readiness ; and manifesting, by the un- hesitating manner in which they continued the ex- ercise from verse to verse, and chapter to chapter, no ordinary tenacity and strength of memory. A hymn was then sung, in which all joined ; when the school was closed with an appropriate prayer by the superintendent. Mrs. Wilson and her daughters were present as teachers and managers of the female scholars ; and in the whole aspect of the school, there was a cleanliness and propriety of dress and personal appearance, and an intelli- gence and order, equal to those found in any of the kind in our own country.
While at prayer,
" The sound of the church-going bell,"
20 PUBLIC WORSHIP AND
with its sweet and elevating associations in the pious mind, began to reach us from a neighbouring grove ; and shortly after, the scholars, in a procession cf two and two — the boys led by a native superinten- dent, and the girls by Mrs. Wilson and her daughters —quietly made their way to a temple of God, founded within the last fifteen years, on the ruins of altars which for time unknown had been steeped in blood. Crowds of islanders, of every grade, were also seen gathering, by well-made gravel walks, leading in various directions, beneath the thick shade of the trees covering the point, to the same spot, all clad in neat and modest apparel, principally white, of their own or foreign manufacture : and exhibiting in their whole aspect, a dignity and res- pectability of character becomingaChristianpeople. Almost every individual had in his hand a copy of the portions of the scripture, translated into the language of the group, and a book of hymns.
The chapel is a large and neat building, one hundred and ten feet long, and forty broad ; lofty, airy, and well finished in all its parts, and wholly of native workmanship. The number of worshippers amounted to about four hundred — the usual con- gregation at this place — including almost entirely the population of the vicinity. The whole appear- ance of the people— their attention and seeming devotion, during the exercises of reading the scrip- tures, singing, prayer, and preaching — was as markedly decorous as would be expected or seen in America or England, and such as to make a deep impression on my own mind. A single glance
OBSERVANCE OF THE SABBATH. 21
around was sufficient to convince the most scep- tical observer of the success and benefit of missions to the heathen ; for it could not be made without meeting the plainest demonstration, that such can be rescued from all the rudeness and wildness of their original condition, can be brought to a state of cleanliness and modesty in their personal appear- ance, can be taught to read and to write — for many,, besides the intelligent and familiar use of the scrip- tures and their hymn book, took notes in pencil of the sermon delivered — in a word, can be transformed into all that civilization and Christianity vouchsafes to man.
After worship we perceived a large portion of the middle-aged and elderly men, and many of the younger to remain in the chapel, while an equal proportion of the females repaired to the school- house. On inquiring the object of this, we learned that it was customary for the members of the church, and persons seriously disposed, to spend a half hour or more after service, in conversation on the subject of the discourse of the missionary, and in prayer for a blessing upon its truth to themselves, and to all who heard it.
Between the hours of public worship, I joined the mission family in an English service of singing, reading, and prayer, in Mr. Wilson's parlour. The greatest quietude reigned around ; and the whole external observance of the day by the natives, in a suspension of all ordinary occupations and amuse- ments, was such as to be worthy the imitation of older and more enlightened Christian nations.
22 PAPKTOAI AND
LETTER XXXVIH.
VISIT TO EIMEO, AND ARRIVAL AT THE SOCIETY ISLANDS.
Papetoai and Afareaitu. — Return to Matavia. — Island of Huahine. — Arrival and anchorage at Raiatea.^Mission- house.
Island of Raiatea, Sept. 1st, 1829.
ON the morning1 of the "26th ult. a party, of which I made one, sailed in two boats for the island of Eimeo, or Moorea, twelve or fifteen miles west of Tahiti. The Rev. Mr. Wilson kindly accompanied us in the excursion. On reaching the north end of the island, for w7hich we steered on leaving Matavai, we entered within a reef skirting it at a distance of a quarter of a mile, and passing by the mouth of the bay of Paopao, or Cook's harbour, at present uninhabited, reached the missionary settlement at Papetoai, at the bay of Opunohu, or Talu, a few miles farther west, early in the afternoon.
The scenery along the northern shore is delight- ful, both bays lying cradled, like lakes, in the midst of mountains of the most picturesque wildness, and of the richest verdure. The whole surface of Eimeo is much more broken than that of Tahiti ; and from whatever point viewed, its contour abounds in lofty pinnacles and shafts of wooded rock and mountain. We were received on the beach by the Rev. Mr. Simpson, and most hospitably entertained by him self and lady, and Mrs. Armitage, at their com-
AFAREAITU. 23
fortable dwellings. Mr. Armitage was absent at Afareaitu, a station we afterwards visited on the eastern side of the island.
Papetoai does not differ materially from Matavai and Papeete, in the evidences of civilization and piety it presents. The chapel is very superior, and more substantial than any other building yet erected in the South Seas, being of hewn coral, not dissi- milar in its appearance to a light free-stone or marble. It is an octagon, sixty or seventy feet in diameter, well plastered and whitewashed within, and furnished with convenient seats constructed of the timber of the bread-fruit tree. The gallery, and a handsome pulpit, are of the same material.
Early the next morning we left for Afareaitu, re- turning to the north-east point inside of the reef, and then coasting along the eastern shore, eight or ten miles, to a little islet marking the entrance of the harbour. Afareaitu is a lovely spot, surrounded by magnificent and beautiful objects. The South Sea academy, chapel, and cottages of the natives — stretching in a long line of whiteness around the bay at the water's edge, beneath mountains spring- ing almost perpendicularly more than three thousand feet high — present a delightful scene as you row in from the sea ; and show what additional beauty the hand of art and civilization can scatter over the splendours of natural scenery.
The Rev. Mr. Orsmond, principal of the aca- demy, and Mr. Blossom — associated wdth him in the secular affairs of the institution and of the mis- sionary station — gave us a most cordial and hcs-
24 RETURN TO MATAVAI.
pitable reception. We had the gratification also of meeting Mr. Armitage, who is preparing to remove his family from Papetoai to Afareaitu, and to establish a cotton manufactory at the latter place, after an unsuccessful experiment at the for- mer.
On this subject, however, and on others of a similar kind, as well as on the South Sea Aca- demy, its design, success, &c., I must again refer to the "Polynesian Researches1' of our friend Ellis, in which you will find every desirable in- formation respecting them.
During the afternoon of Thursday, wre made a water party for the missionaries and children of the academy, and visited the islet on the reef in front of the settlement. It commands a beautiful view of bay and mountains ; and I occupied the time we were upon it principally in taking a sketch, to add to the collection already in my portfolio.
Our kind friends furnished us with a repast before dawn on the morning of the 28th ; and immediately after, bidding them farewell, with grateful feelings for the hospitality with which we had been enter- tained, we left the harbour on our return to the ship, while the stars were yet twinkling in the sky. Early in the day, the trade wind set in so freshly that the channel between the islands became very rough ; and we were glad to secure an entrance through the reef, twelve or fourteen miles to the leeward of Matavai. It was in the vicinity of the missionary station occupied by the Rev. Mr. Darling — of whose
ISLAND OF HUAIHINE. 25
residence and printing establishment, chapel, and the habitations of the islanders in the vicinity, we had a fine, though distant sight.
On gaining the harbour of Papeete we landed on the island at its mouth, to partake of some refresh- ment in the coolness of its groves. The necessity of looking to our provision-chest, how ever, was antici- pated by the arrival of Mr. Pritchard in his boat from the shore, with one or two attendants bearing a tray of delicacies, politely furnished by Mrs. Prit- chard, who, aware of the necessity we should be under of returning by Papeete, and of the probabi- lity of our arriving weary and exhausted, had in this manner kindly borne us in mind. On re-em- barking we called at the mission-house to make our acknowledgments, and left in time only to reach the Vincennes, at a seasonable hour in the evening.
On the first sabbath we were at Matavai, Mr. Pritchard preached on board the Vincennes, and with the Rev. Mr. Crook, from a distant station on the southern side of the island, spent the day with us : and on the last, Mr. Pritchard, Mr. Wilson, Mr. Marenhaut, and Captain Brock, were at worship, and dined on board. In the evening Mr. Stribling and myself went on shore to take leave of Mrs. Wilson and her daughters ; and at ten o'clock on Monday the Vincennes took her anchor, and bore away for the Society Islands, a hundred miles distant.
It was the intention of Captain Finch to have touched at Huahine, the most eastern of this group ; and last evening, after passing Tabuae-manu, at
VOL. II. C
26 ARRIVAL AND ANCHORAGE
too great a distance to discern it distinctly, I re- tired to my cot, with the pleasing anticipation of making an early visit on shore at Fare, the sta- tion and settlement in pastoral charge of the Rev. Mr Barff, long the colleague and still the intimate friend of Mr. Ellis. The wind, however, was light and unfavourable during the night, and by morning we had fallen so much to the leeward of the whole island, that it was determined to proceed without delay to Raiatea, also in sight. I wras greatly disappointed ; and could scare feel reconciled to the idea of not visiting, at least for an hour, the scene of the principal residence in the South Seas of one I so highly respect and so sincerely love.
Huahine, though not so wild in contour, is equally verdant and beautiful in its general ap- pearance as Eimeo — and its characteristic features very like the central sections of Oahu, at the Sandwich Islands. When nearest to it, we were not more than ten miles from its western shore, with this island and Tahaa on the north of it, in full view — while Borabora, a fourth in the group, appeared loftily but dimly in the distance.
By twelve o'clock we had approached so near the northern end of Raiatea, as to distinguish the chapel and cottages of the settlement, with a flag- staff and the banner of the nation — a broad hori- zontal stripe of white between two of red — flying from its top. At the same time a native pilot boarded us, and carrying the ship through a nar- row opening in the reef, with a small island on
AT RAIATEA. _,
either hand, brought us safely to anchor opposite the village, a mile and a half north of the en- trance by which we had passed within the reef.
We are in the midst of another varied and* beautiful panorama. The ship lies within a short distance of the shore, which is richly edged with groves and single trees, and a fine undergrowth of the banana, sugar-cane, and various shrubbery, surrounding and overhanging the white cottages of the inhabitants. These stand thickly, in regular lines along a single street, two miles or more in length, and are backed by abrupt hills, covered with grass and bushes, till they rise into a bold cliff with a flattened top, standing high above the settlement, and forming a striking landmark in approaching the island on the eastern side. Beneath this, on the north, several low points luxuriantly clothed and spotted with dwellings, jut far into the channel, — while beyond them, at a distance of twenty miles, the lofty and shell-like peaks of Borabora tower against the sky, in a blueness almost equal to its own.
Eastward of this island, and within half the dis- tance, the green points of Tahaa, inclosed in the same reef with Raiatea, stretch, like the spread fin- gers of a hand, into the sea — the only object on it, in distinct view, being a stately chapel, which rises like a palace on the eye, against the darkness of the hills behind. Still further in the east lies the open ocean, separated from us only by the reef — a few hundred rods distant — on which a never- ceasing surf rises, crests, and breaks, in a thousand c 2
*28 MISSION-HOUSE.
forms of varied beauty, as it sends its voice " of many waters" far along- the echoing shore. While behind us are the tufted islets, marking- the passage by which we entered, with numerous palmy points along the coast of Raiatea, and Huahine across a wide channel in the distance.
Our arrival attracted little attention ; riot a canoe came off, nor did any collection of persons on the shore,, or other appearance., indicate the childish excitement usual among uncivilized people on such occasions. From the pilot we learned that Tamatoa, the king of Raiatea, and the whole royal party from Tahiti, were at the adjoining island of Tahaa ; and it was not till the cool of the evening that any of the ship's company landed. I then went on shore with several gentlemen of the ward-room.
The landing is on a substantially laid quay of coral, where we met an intelligent lad of twelve years — the son of Rev. Mr. Williams, the mis- sionary of the station. He informed us that his father was at the chapel, delivering a customary weekly lecture ; and on directing our walk up the street, we met and returned with him to the mis- sion-house, and were introduced to Mrs. Williams and her family. Their establishment is more neat and rural, and more comfortable in its whole arrangement, than any we have before seen. The house is large and convenient — -having three plea- sant rooms in front, opening by large folding doors on a veranda extending the entire length of the building — and commands, across an enclosure
RESIDENCE OF THE KING. 29
filled with shrubbery, fruit, and flowers, a fine view of the ocean. Every thing1 around looked neat and prosperous ; and, on taking1 a walk through the village, we found the same features marked, in a greater or less degree, on the habi- tations and appearance of the people every where. Still, we are told, that the evidences of improve- ment in the arts and manner of life here, are not equal to those exhibited at the neighbouring- island of Huahine.
On a long coral wharf, near the resident ^ of the king — and from that circumstance called the king's wharf- a small vessel of Mr. Williams' is under- going repairs, and the keel of another, of forty or fifty tons, belonging to the king, is laid. The timbers in both are of the tamanu — inophyllunt callophyllum—di native tree, thought equal to the American live oak for ship- building; and the work- men, islanders under the direction of an English carpenter.
LETTER XXXIX.
INTERVIEW WITH THE KING TAMATOA, AND A SABBATH AT RAIATEA.
Residence of the King. — Queen of Raiatea and King Tamatoa. — The Queen's cottage and household.— Sab- bath and Communion service.
Island of Raiatea, Sept. 5th, 1929. MR. Williams called upon Captain Finch and the officers of the ship, early on the morning after our
30 QUEEN OF RAIATEA
arrival, and there has been since a daily and al- most hourly interchange of civility and kindness between the Vincennes and mission-house. Some of our number spend every evening1 on shore ; and Mr. and Mrs. Williams and family, and Mrs. Hunter, the wife of a Captain Hunter, at present on the South American coast, have passed a day with us on ship-board.
Learning that the wife of the king had not ac- companied him to Tahaa, Captain Finch and my- self paid her a visit on the morning of the 3d in- stant. The king's house is a respectable building of frame, wattled, plastered, and whitewashed, in the manner now extensively introduced throughout the Georgian and Society Islands. It is in the cottage style, of one story, with a roof of thatch, and has four rooms on the floor — one large and airy, used as a reception hall, and the others smaller, appropriated as sleeping and dres&ing apartments. The former has four glazed windows and two large doors — one in panels of wood opening on the street, and 'the other of glass, towards the sea, from which it is separated by a small enclosure of grass and shrubbery.
We were shewn into this, while the queen, who was at another residence, was informed of our wish to see her. The wood work is neatly painted, the floors covered with fine mats, and the walls lined with settees of native workmanship, from the tim- ber of the bread-fruit, with seats and backs of beautifully braided cord of the fibre of the cocoa- nut husk. We took the liberty of opening the
AND KING T A MA TO A.
doors of the adjoining rooms, and found them all furnished with well-made bedsteads, covered with several thicknesses of soft mats, in place of mattresses, and spread with counterpanes of India print. A drapery of white tapa, or native cloth, around the windows and on canopies over the beds, gave an air of great neatness and comfort to the whole.
O
Many of the cottages of the common people, into which we looked, bear both within and without, similar marks of order and respectability.
The queen soon arrived attended by four or five pretty looking young women, in European dresses. She is fifty or sixty years of age, and highly re- spectable in her appearance, with traces of early beauty still discoverable in her features and ex- pression of countenance. Her dress was a loose slip of white cambric, with a pau, or native petti- coat, of blue and white, in cross-bar, over it ; and a long shawl and straw bonnet. She is very sedate in her manners, and deported herself with great propriety during the interview. Immediately after the arrival of the Vincennes, an express had been dispatched for the king, and she informed us, that he would probably reach Raiatea early the same evening.
This was the case ; and yesterday morning, Cap- tain Finch, accompanied by the surgeon and Lieu- tenants Dornin, Magruder, Lardner, and myself, waited upon him. We were received in the same room as on the preceding day ; and the interview with Mr. Williams, as interpreter, was interesting and pleasant. Tamatoa, without being corpulent,
32 THE QUEEN'S COTTAGE
is one of the tallest and largest men I ever saw ; standing-, when he rises — in gigantic proportions of limb and muscle — fully a head and shoulders above all around him. He is dignified in his man-
O
ner, and converses with much good sense and intel- ligence. The captain informed him of the general objects of the visit of the Vincennes to the South Seas ; of the policy he was instructed by our go- vernment, and desirous himself to pursue ; and tendered the services of the ship, in any manner he might wish, during the period of our stay. He expressed himself much gratified, and thankful for the kindness of the government, and the politeness of the commander of the man-of-war.
On our way to the mission-house, afterwards, we made a second call upon his wife, at a house occu- pied by her during the visit of the queen of Tahiti, to whom she has relinquished the use of the prin- cipal royal establishment. The building is a fine specimen of the original native style of architec- ture— an oval some sixty feet in the longest dia- meter— surmounted by a beautiful roof of thatch, ten or twelve feet high at the eaves, and twenty or more in the centre. The sides and ends are com- posed of straight, round poles, fastened perpendi- cularly in the ground, and lashed together at regu- lar intervals of an inch, so as to admit an abun- dance of light and air within. The poles being of a white wood, and the thatch finished with the great- est neatness, the whole has a very pretty aspect -t and would furnish a model for a rustic pavilion, or summer house, in a park at home. The ground
AND HOUSEHOLD. 33
strewn with grass and laid with mats, constituted the floor.
We found the queen, like those of " olden time," in the midst of her maidens, at work — not at the loom or embroidering frame — but in weaving the more beautiful of the mats manufactured at the islands. That which she was herself platting, not being so fine as some of the rest, she apologized for it, by remarking, that when young, no one excelled her in the art, but now that she was old, she was incapable of rivalling others. The ex- ample of occupation and industry thus presented in the household of the first female in the nation, was pleasing and praiseworthy ; and she seemed gratified by the commendation it called from our party. Both the king and queen are very decidedly and sincerely pious; and I observed, with pleasure, a Testament and hymn book lying within reach of each of the females at work— evidently for use and not display, as our visit was entirely unex- pected to them, and not intended by ourselves till at the door of the house.
In the evening, Tamatoa took tea with Lieute- nant Stribling and myself, at the mission-house ; and is manifestly a sensible, dignified, and truly Christian ruler.
To-day has been the sabbath on shore. The chapel here, like all we saw at the windward group, is large, well-built, and a noble edifice, for such a people. It is not less than a hundred and twenty feet in length, and proportionately wide, calculated to seat two thousand hearers. The usual congrega- c3
34 SABBATH AND
tion varies from a thousand to twelve hundred. The number assembled to-day amounted to about eleven hundred ; all well and neatly clad, and exhibiting in their whole appearance and manner of attending the service, every characteristic of civilization, re- spectability, and piety, found in any common con- gregation in the United States. But for the colour of the audience, indeed, it would have been difficult for any one to believe himself worshipping with those, who, till within a few years, had been lost in all the gross vice, licentiousness, and wildness of paganism. The sight was at once delightful and affecting.
The dress of the men, from the king to the most unimportant individual present, consisted of a white shirt, and black silk or coloured cravat, with a fine fringed mat, several yards in length, or a piece of muslin or calico of the same size, wrapped loosely from the loins to the knee, in a manner to resemble the drawers or trowsers of the eastern nations. A straw hat worn out-doors finished the attire. The females, in general, were in white muslin slips, with larofe mantles of calico or of native cloth over them,
o y
and bonnets of straw. Many, however, were dressed altogether in the European fashion, except the un- becoming deficiency in our eyes, of shoes and stock- ings— a luxury scarce attainable by the first chief- tains in the group.
The old queen was conspicuous, in a white India muslin, handsomely made, with yellow silk hand- kerchief, fine ruff, satin sash, and modish strawr hat and trimmings — a present from the governor of New
COMMUNION SERVICE. 35
South Wales. In many accidents of feature and manners, this individual is uncommonly like one of the most distinguished of our elderly female friends. Captain Finch and a dozen of the officers at- tended the chapel in the morning. Arrangements had heen made to take the band along, to play a few pieces of sacred music at intervals in the service, for the gratification of many, who would have no other opportunity of witnessing the performance of the musicians. The exercises began, as on board ship, with the Portuguese hymn. I wras fearful that the novelty might occasion some confusion : but it did not in the least. There was not the slightest
O
unbecoming excitement ; not even among the chil- dren, who took their seats together, as they entered in long procession from the sabbath school.
It was the day of the communion ; and after the general congregation had been dismissed, about three hundred of both sexes, and of a variety of ages, with solemnity, and seemingly deep interest, partook of the emblems of the broken body and shed blood of Him who grave his life a ransom for
O
many. Much as the sincerity and piety of the church members in the islands have been doubted by the calumniators of the mission, from all I have ob- served and known, and from all passing before me on this occasion, I was led to the fervent prayer, that I might myself, at last, be equally worthy, with many of these, of a seat at the marriage sup- per of the Lamb.
Mr. Striblingand myself spent the evening with Mr. and Mrs. Williams. This we almost invariably
36 ROYAL PARTY.
do ; and never without being- deeply impressed by hearing, in the stillness of the night, the melody of the native hymn falling- on the ear, in various direc- tions, from the little cottages of islanders, as they engage in their evening devotions. Family worship, consisting of the reading of a portion of scripture, of a hymn, and of prayer, is universally practised, not only in llaiatea, but throughout the whole nation.
LETTER XL.
AUDIENCE WITH THE QUEEN OF TAHITI, AND VISIT OF THE CHIEFS ON BOARD SHIP.
Royal party. — Shrewdness of the Regent. — Meeting- of the Landowners and Speech of Uaeva. — Reception on hoard ship. — Governess of Huahine.
Island of Raiatea, Sept. 8th, 1829.
ON the evening of the 6th inst., the queen of Tahiti, the dowager her mother, an aunt holding the office of regent, with a train of inferior chief- tains, and a suite of followers, said to be the most lawless company in the two groups, arrived in two small vessels from Tahaa ; and on the succeeding morning a visit of ceremony was paid to the party, by Captain Finch and a number of the officers of the Vincemies.
The reputation of the Tahitian chieftains is far from being unspotted. The regent and dowager are both excommunicated members of the church ; and
AUDIENCE WITH THE QUEEN. 37
the young queen's character, according to common report, is not sans reproche. Their whole appear- ance, however, was most decorous • and surpassed, in respectability, every anticipation we had been led to entertain. The interview took place in the apart- ment already described, in the residence of king Tamatoa — the only alteration consisting in new mats on all the sofas, and in the introduction of two armed chairs at the upper end, as seats of ho- nour for the young queen, Pomare, and her aunt the regent.
We were introduced in the order of rank ; and found the court to consist of Pomare Vahine I., Ariipaea regent, Tereomoemoe queen dowager — both daughters of the king of Raiatea, the governess of Huahine, also his daughter — with their husbands — king Tamatoa and his wife, the governor of Ta- haa, and several inferior chieftains, with four or five children, male and female, descendants of Tamatoa. Indeed, he is the patriarch of the whole number, being either the father, grandfather, uncle, or grand-uncle, by blood or marriage, of every chief person present. They were all dressed in European costume, varying in the expensiveness of the mate- rials; and more or less complete in the articles constituting a full suit.
Mr Williams, at the request of Captain Finch, attended as interpreter, and gave a full exposition of the nature and object of the visit of the Vincennes. The regent presided, the young queen saying no- thing except through her, and then only in mono- syllables. She is still young — only seventeen — of
38 SHREWDNESS OF THE REGENT.
good figure and agreeable face,, especially when smiling or in conversation, when she is better look- ing than most females we have seen since leaving the Washington Islands.
While at Tahiti a complaint,, well founded as we ascertained,, had been made to Captain Finch of the conduct of the queen and regent, in refe- rence to some deserters from an American whale- ship — natives of the Sandwich Islands, but regu- larly shipped members of the crew — which he thought necessary and desirable to bring forward. The subject evidently was not an agreeable one to the persons principally concerned ; and we were quite amused at the adroit manner in which the regent attempted to screen herself and the queen, from the censure to which she perceived they were exposed. The most wily diplomatist could scarce have exhibited more tact in turning to good ac- count an unfavourable aspect of things, or greater ingenuity in avoiding an unpleasant dilemma. After having placed the subject in a light calculated to prevent a recurrence of similar conduct, the mat- ter was pleasantly dismissed by the captain ; and the official part of the audience closed, by an invi- tation to the whole company to visit the ship the next day.
The conference being thus ended, the king of Raiatea and his queen, accompanied by the dowa- ger and regent of Tahiti, retired to one of the inner apartments, and returned shortly after laden with beautiful mats and native cloth, which they placed, as a present, at the feet of the captain ;
MEETING OF THE LANDOWNERS. 39
the regent giving- that which she bore, in the name of the young queen. At the same time, the street door was thrown open, and the steward of the queen's household stepping in, with an oratorical attitude and loud voice, pointed to a large quan- tity of provisions — cocoanuts, bananas, taro, pota- toes, &c., with several hogs — placed in full view ; and enumerating the whole in order, submitted them to the disposal of the captain, as a gift from his mistress to himself and officers.
When about taking leave, we were informed that a regular monthly meeting of the secondary chiefs, or landholders, for the discussion of topics of public importance, was then taking place in the chapel ; and, that a messenger had arrived inviting our attendance.
This class of chiefs in Raiatea consists of eight
O
or ten individuals — tall and largely framed men, without an excess of corpulence ; and dignified and highly respectable in their appearance and whole deportment. They are the staunch friends and supporters of all the institutions of civilization and piety, and evidently the very bones and sinews of the land. After being seated among them, several of the number, in short but animated and appropriate speeches, expressed the great pleasure it gave them to see a ship from the government of the United States at their island, and the happi- ness they had experienced in learning the kind sentiments and in observing the amiable and con- descending deportment of Captain Finch — asking, in conclusion, any advice he might think proper to
40 SPEECH OF UAEVA.
address to them. In return, he assured them of every kind feeling1 towards themselves and people — testified to the interest and satisfaction with which he regarded the improvements and advances in civilization they had made,, and encouraged them to unwearied attention, both in themselves and in their children, to the means of knowledge with which they were favoured; and to the enactment and enforcement of wholesome laws. On which Uaeva, one of the most distinguished of the num- ber, made the following reply ;
" Chieftain and Friend,
" This is my speech to you. Great has been the joy of our hearts since your arrival among us, because of the kindness of your object in this visit. We greatly rejoiced on the sabbath day, for your presence with us in worshipping the Lord : and in bringing your band of beautiful music to unite with us in praise. This made our hearts very glad.
tf You are now advising us, and strengthening us in our small and feeble government — you are encouraging us in the acquisition of letters and in the formation of laws : this is good. Should any thing prevent the benefit of this encourage- ment in the affairs of our government, still may your great nation countenance and promote the work of God among us Gentiles; and patronize our teachers in doing their good work.
" Health and salvation to yourself, chieftain, and to all the nobles and Christians of America !"
The incidents of the morning had a tendency
RECEPTION ON BOARD SHIP. 41
to elevate our ideas of the state of the country, and of the true character of the people : and after some refreshments at the mission-house we re- turned on board much gratified with all we had seen and heard.
At the request of the queen the band was sent on shore for an hour or two in the afternoon ; and a kind of concert and oratorio given in the chapel,, attended by the missionaries, many of the officers of the Vincennes, and a large concourse of royalty and plebeianism. The entertainment seemed highly gratifying to all : and as it had been a kind of gala day,, rockets and fireworks were set off on board ship in the evening — a novelty to all on shore except the Tahitians.
Early this morning the ship was in order to re- ceive our guests, and boats dispatched at ten o'clock to fetch them on board. The queen of Tahiti was handed over the side by the captain — the guard of marines presenting arms, and the band playing " Hail, Columbia." After the whole number had been escorted to the poop deck, a salute of fifteen guns was fired, during which we had proof that delicate nerves are not confined to the polished side of the globe. Many of the female noblesse of the party were greatly agitated ; the good old queen of Raiatea sank to the deck, and I believe actually went to prayer ; while her majesty of Tahiti, hanging on the captain's arm in front of the rest, stood the first two or three guns forward very well, but as the gunners touch- ed off the battery farther and farther aft, she be-
42 GOVERNESS OF HUAHINE.
gan to retreat with a finger in each ear, but laugh- ing',, and exclaiming " maitail maitai!" — "good! good /" with a tremulous and terrified voice.
In a fashionable black satin dress, with deep ruff of thin muslin, a golden girdle and clasp, and a handsome round hat of fine straw trimmed with rib- bons and flowers, she made quite a genteel appear- ance. Most of the others were equally well dressed.
The governess of Huahine I found to be one of the most intelligent of the company. We had quite an animated conversation before dinner, in which she exhibited a greater degree of information than I had expected. She appeared fully to understand the difference of government in the United States and at the islands — knew the elective nature of the presidential office — inquired the name of the pre- sent incumbent, and asked whether it was probable he would be chosen for another term, &c. &c. The general state of the Sandwich Islands is also familiar to her. She corresponds with some of the chiefs there, and says that the princess Harrieta is a very fine and pious girl — that it is feared the young king, her brother, may become dissipated — that Governor Boki is not very good, &c. The ex-queen Kekauruohi — a wife of Tamehameha L, and afterwards of his son Rihoriho or Tamehameha II. — is one of her friends ; and from her she has just received letters, with a box of presents — con- taining, among other articles, a boy's suit of crim- son silk velvet, worn by one of the little chieftains on the present occasion.
This female and her husband, one of the finest
43
looking- men of the party, are both consistent and zealous members of the church. Speaking- of the wealth and power of England and America,, in com- parison with the Islands, she remarked,, that they were a poor people, but in the arts of reading- and writing, and in a knowledge of the word of God, they still had the highest blessings : adding, that all the people, however, did not love these, and that she supposed it was in America and in England as it was with them — that some were good and some were bad — some regarding and some disobeying the laws of God.
LETTER XLI.
COMMUNICATION OF POMARE VAHINE I. TO THE PRESIDENT.
Letter of the Queen to the President. — Religious conference and speech of a Church member.
Island of Raiatea, Sept. 16th, 1829. THE queen of Tahiti and party called on board this morning, after having embarked on their re- turn to Tahaa. The appearance of the rabble, constituting a principal part of her train, in con- trast with that of most of the islanders we have seen, either at the Georgian group or at this place, goes far to prove the reputed licentiousness of her household ; and detracts greatly from the good impression made by the respectability and propriety of her personal deportment.
44 LETTER OF THE QUEEN
A principal object in visiting" the Vincennes, was to commit to Captain Finch' a letter she has writ- ten to the President — of this Mr. Williams has furnished the following1 translation :
" Raiatea, September 26th, 1829. " President,
" In consequence of your kindness I write a let- ter to you. You sent a man-of-war formerly to our land, commanded by Captain Jones ; he treated us with great kindness. You have now sent another man-of-war, commanded by Captain Finch ; his kindness to us has also been great ; we are highly pleased with his visit. I now write to you to ex- press my gratitude ; also to inform you of 'nir present state.
. " I am a female — the first queen of Tahiti — Queen Pomare I. is my name. I am daughter to Pomare II. When he died the government de- volved on my little brother — he died, the govern- ment then became mine. I am young and inex- perienced.
" We have cast away the worship of idols, and have embraced the worship of our common Lord. In the year 1814 we embraced Christianity.
" We have missionaries on the island who are diligent in teaching us that which will promote our welfare. Some have been with us upwards of thirty years.
" We have laws by which we are governed. I cannot send you a copy, I being on a visit to my grandfather at Raiatea.
" Tahiti and Eimeo are the largest islands in my
TO THE PRESIDENT. 45
government. We have not many people — perhaps ten thousand.
ee There is not much property at my island — arrowroot and cocoanut oil are the principal. We have abundance of food, and excellent harbours for ships: many American vessels call at Tahiti — tell them to continue to call, and we will treat them well.
" All kinds of cotton cloth are in demand here for barter — white, printed, blue shawls, ribbons, axes, are all good property to bring, to procure refreshments.
" We have a new flag given us by Captain Lawes, of the Satellite, British man-of-war ; will you kindly acknowledge it in traversing the seas, and in visiting you, as yours is by us — should that be the case at a distant period.
" Captain Finch has made myself, and mother, and aunt, with others, some handsome presents in your name, for which receive my gratitude. We are always glad to see American vessels at Tahiti. Continue to sail your vessels without suspicion. Our harbours are good, and our refreshments abundant.
tf Prosperity attend you, President of the United States of America — may your good government be
of long duration.
" QUEEN POMARE I."
• Tamatoa, the king of Raiatea, has also pre- pared a communication of similar import, to be transmitted to the president by Captain Finch. Lieutenant Stribling and myself attended a
46 RELIGIOUS CONFERENCE.
meeting this afternoon, held weekly by Mr. Wil- liams, with those of his congregation who have been baptized. It is the intention of this gentle- man, in the course of a few months, to make an extensive voyage among the islands west of the Georgian and Society groups ; and to carry with him a number of the natives of Raiatea, of es- tablished piety, to be left as teachers, wherever it may be found practicable. Eight of his pa- rishioners have given their names to him in view of this enteqmze ; and he chose this opportunity to communicate the fact to the members of the church ; and to ask their opinion of the fitness of the individuals for the undertaking, and the pro- priety of their entering upon it.
The introduction of the subject led to a number of sensible and excellent speeches. One of them contained a very pretty allusion to the visit of the Vincennes, and the policy of Captain Finch, with an application to the contemplated voyage of Mr. Williams. It was much as follows : (< A large man-of-war is nowT with us. She has come from afar with kind motives and designs of good to our- selves and those like us. Her object is to learn our condition and to encourage us to seek our own welfare. Her officers have their reward : they are covered and crowned with gold ; they wear gol on their shoulders and gold on their heads, (allud ing to the lace and epaulets of their uniform) ; it i their reward, My sentiment is, that we too sen out a vessel to those more ignorant and poor than ourselves, to do them good. Those of
ASPECT OF BORABORA. 47
who o-o on this expedition will not, like these our friends, be crowned with gold for their reward. No ! they will receive nothing in this world per- haps, still they shall be crowned. Yes, their's shall be the crown of eternal life, to be given them, at last, by their Lord and Master Jesus Christ!" The evening has been spent, as usual, at the mission-house. I have become much attached both to Mr. and Mrs. Williams. Mrs. Williams is an amiable and intelligent woman, well educated and of good manners ; and Mr. Williams is admirably fitted, in every respect, for a missionary ; and long has been, and still is the instrument of immense good among this people.
LETTER XLII.
DEPARTURE FOR THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
General aspect of Borabora. — Misrepresentations of the State of the Islands. — Contrast between their former and present condition.
U. S. Ship Vincennes, at sea, Sept. 14th, 1829.
YESTERDAY morning we hove short before breakfast ; and at nine o'clock took our anchor to bid farewell to the Society Islands. A native pilot, a fine-looking and respectable man, conducted the ship to the open sea. Mr. Williams also politely accompanied us beyond the reef.
The egress from the harbour is not by the pas-
48 ASPECT OF BORA BORA.
sage through which we entered, but round the north end of the island, six or eight miles from the set- tlement, on the opposite side. The channel is of easy and safe navigation, and the regular trade wind fair the whole distance. After gliding past the reef, and exchanging affectionate salutations with Mr. Williams, we filled away in the direction of Borabora, twenty-five miles distant. This island is of a striking contour, and readily distinguished from any other of the group by a central moun- tain, rising aim st perpendicularly on every side, a height of more than two thousand feet. It is par- tially divided into two elevations or shafts, with a curvature on the southern side from the base to the top, giving it the appearance at a distance of a thin shell of rock.
There is a ship channel between Borabora and Tahaa, fifteen miles south-east of it ; but we passed to the westward of both, and then ran north, with Maurua, the most leeward of the cluster, in sight, at a distance of thirty miles. Before evening we were near Tubai, a small coral island covered with cocoanut and pandanus, the last of the group ; and at sunset, took a departure from it, with the hope of a speedy run over the two thousand fiv hundred miles separating us from the Sandwi Islands.
From the outline of our visit at the Georgia and Society Islands, which I have thus given, you
will perceive, dear H , that I have left you t
consult the recent publication of Mr. Ellis for a that is most important in the history, present state
iic ve
:
MISREPRESENTATIONS. 49
and prospects of their inhabitants. In the letters I have written, however, there is sufficient evidence, t trust, to prove them decidedly and interestingly a civilized and Christian people ; and to present a conclusive and delightful demonstration of the power of the gospel on the nature, habits, and life of untutored man.
Their geographical location is such that it may be long before they rise, as a nation, to any great degree of commercial or political importance, or by agricultural improvements beyond those intro- duced in supply of a home consumption, and by trade become richly furnished with the luxuries of wealth and refinement. Still they possess every resource essential to the competence, comfort, and respectability of this life, while a knowledge of the Revelation of God, and the means of grace, unfold to them the hope and immortality of that which is to come. Their chapels and schools, their ha- bitations and dress, their Bibles and their hymn books, their family circles and domestic altars-, with a freedom from public licentiousness and open crime, speak volumes, in contrast with the state in which they once were, for the happiness they now enjoy.
If the aspect of the people in general, and the animated declaration and lively sensibility, even to tears seemingly of deep feeling, of those who have a full remembrance, and who largely shared in their own experience of the evils of heathenism, are to be accredited, the islanders themselves are far from being insensible to the benefit and bles-
VOL. II. D
50 CONTRAST BETWEEN THE
sing" of the change they have experienced ; and would not for worlds be deprived of the light and mercy they have received, or again be subjected to the mental and moral darkness, and various degradation from which they have escaped.
Yet there are those who have visited the South Seas — men bearing the Christian name, with a reputation for science, and holding stations of ho- nour, who have affected to discover a greater de- gree of depravity, and more wretchedness at Ta- hiti and Raiatea, than was known in the reign and terror of idolatry ; and have ventured to proclaim to the world, that Christianity has here, for the first time in eighteen hundred years, had the effect of rendering the inhabitants vindictive arid hateful, indolent and corrupt, superstitious and unhappy, and more pitiable in all their circumstances, than when fully in a pagan state ! And that the wars intro- duced and encouraged by the MESSENGERS OF PEACE, have nearly exterminated the race !
Whence the data for such a sentiment could have been drawn, must for ever remain a mystery, at least to all who, like ourselves, have had the advantage of a personal observation in the case.
The last wars in the islands were previous to any influence gained: by the missionaries over either chiefs or people. Since the establishment of Chris- tianity there has been an uninterrupted peace ; and as to other bloodshed, the Rev. Mr. Nott assure< me, that he had not heard of a murder among the natives for fifteen years.
Theft is occasionally known, though we met with
FORMER AND PRESENT CONDITION. 51
no evidence of it ; and instances of secret vice and licentiousness doubtless occur; and may, when dili- gently sought, be found — though not honourably boasted of — by foreign visitors ; but do these facts justify the assertion of a general and utter depra- vity ? and do they forfeit the claim of the nation to the epithet, pure morals, and genuine piety of a Christian people? As well might the traveller, in visiting New York or London, because he has suf- fered from a thief or discovers a haunt of debau- chery, gravely state in his journal, that there is not an honest man or a virtuous woman in the United States, or in Great Britain — an assertion which I have heard made of the Society Islands — and that the state of the one nation is worse than in the time of the Druids, and of the other, than when the red man alone prowled in her forests.
Such a presentation of the state of this people can arise only from gross ignorance of their original condition, and from a very limited personal expe- rience of the high happiness connected with the moral habits and spiritual affections of sincere piety. What were the characteristics, I would ask, — not now discoverable in the islanders — to be seen when they were in a state of heathenism ? Only such as would be exhibited in connection with facts, such as the following — facts to which I have, at the Sand- wich Islands, when they were in a similar condition, myself been an eye-witness. A vessel would scarce have dropped her anchor before she would have been surrounded and boarded by crowds of hoot- D 2
52 CONTRAST BETWEEN THE
ing arid shouting savages — men and women, almost, if not entirely, in the nakedness of nature, testify- ing their joy in a prospect of gain from the visitor, by every variety of rude noise and levity : and this only in prelude to a licentiousness of intercourse, extending frequently from the cabin to the fore- castle, too gross to be named, while pilfering and dishonesty in every form, — filth, vermin, and dis- ease followed in the train. Such would be the exhibitions on ship-board — and what would be the character of those on shore?
No neatly whitened European cottage would meet the view, beneath the foliage of their groves, nor lofty temple invite the admiration of the eye, while it raised the thoughts to heaven ; the hum of no thriving school would come like music on the intelligent ear, nor the hymn of devotion be heard floating on the breeze : but the putridity of a corpse, lying in cruel sacrifice before an idol of wood or stone, would direct to the altar of their gods, while the shouts and wild sounds of the song and dance, and the beating of drums, would pro- ' claim a scene of revelry and sin.
And could the veil be removed from all the ini- quity of the system under which they dwelt, be- sides the terrors of superstition by which they were burdened, and the many goading evils arising from a slavery both of mind and soul, abominations would be disclosed against which the eye would revolt in involuntary disgust — while the shrieks of victims torn from their midnight slumbers to be
FORMER AND PRESENT CONDITION. 53
hurried to a terrific death, and the plaintive moan- ings of infants, writhing in the agonies of dissolu- tion, beneath the murderous grasp of an inhuman parent, would
" Wake the nerve where agonies are born,"
and fill the soul with a horror not readily to be forgotten !
SANDWICH ISLANDS. LETTER XLIII.
ARRIVAL AT THE ISLAND OF HAWAII. First sight of Hawaii. — Land in a small boat.
U. S. Ship Vincennes, off Hawaii, October 2d, 1829.
AFTER a passage of eighteen days from Raiatea — including- four of a dead calm, previously to taking- the north-east trade wind — yesterday after- noon, at 5 o'clock, " land ho /" was called from the mast-head.
I had been anxiously gazing, for an hour, from one of the quarter-boats, at a mass of clouds and mist on our lee-bow, expecting the outline of Hawaii momentarily to make its appearance. First- rate chronometers, accurate sights, and nice cal- culations, enable us to judge very closely of the time of making land : and the sailing master having said, at 12 o'clock, that we should see the island between 3 and 5, we were almost certain that such would be the fact.
Before the call from aloft was made, my eyes had been fixed for some minutes on what I be- lieved to be the summit of MOUNAKEA ; but I dared not assert it, lest I might be deceived : I was cor-
FIRST SIGHT OF HAWAII. 55
rect, however, though a thick haze prevented any more distinct sight of it. The south-east point, in the neighbourhood of Kearakomo, was the only part clearly in view before dark, and that at a distance of forty or fifty miles.
Captain Finch did not fully determine, until a short time since, whether he would run on directly to Maui to-night, or lie-to and send a boat into Byron's Bay in the morning. Much to my satis- faction, and indeed principally on my account, he has made up his mind to look in upon Hido : and thus to give me the interview of an hour with those of our missionary friends who may be at that station, and, at the same time, an opportunity of learning the general news of the nations, before proceeding to Oahu.
Our voyage from the Society Islands has seemed long and most tedious to me, notwithstanding its having, in reality, been short. A near approach to this group has necessarily given rise to many feel- ings and associations, both of joy and of pain; and, for the last few days, especially during and since the calm to which we were subjected, I have been as restless and feverish in mind, as a child on the point of realizing some long-promised and eagerly anticipated delight ; and have been inca- pable of confining my attention for an hour to any one subject. Such utter uncertainty hangs over the scenes immediately before me, that I find myself harassed by an exciting and painful im- patience, when I ought to be under the exercise only of emotions of gratitude and joy for the
56 FIRST SIGHT OF HAWAII.
kind protection of God, in permitting me to reach this " desired haven" in health and safety.
As you, my dear H , will readily believe, I
was on deck this morning- by day-break, in antici- pation of a sunrise view of the land and mountains, as splendid and impressive as that with which we were favoured, when under similar circumstances, on board the Thames in 1823. But I was disap- pointed : instead of the rich and mellow tints of a fine morning1 in the tropics, I found a beclouded sky with occasional strong puffs of wind and dashes of rain, while an impenetrable curtain of mist entirely cut off a sight of the land. By 7 o'clock, however, the rain had ceased — the clouds began to gather round the mountains, and the mist over the lowlands, retreating before the sun, left the wide districts of Puna and Hido, with their exten- sive forests and gradually ascending open grounds, in all their rich verdure and freshness, in full view. We were then directly off Kapoho, the east point of the island — twenty-five or thirty miles south of Byron's Bay — and within twelve or fifteen miles of the shore.
For the last two hours, we have been running along the coast, which momentarily increases in richness. I am happy that the ship's company thus have an opportunity of seeing this section of the country, so widely different from every thing on the leeward sides. Hawaii is, without hesita- tation, pronounced by them the finest and most important island we have yet seen, and evidently rich in its capacities for improvement.
LAND IN A SMALL BOAT. 57
We are now so near the entrance of the bay that orders are given for two boats to be in readi- ness for lowering — one to carry me to the mission- house,, and the other to enable the sailing-master to take a view of the harbour, that we may have it in our power to speak from observation of its ad- vantages and disadvantages. I must, therefore, drop my pen — only to resume it, I trust, with good news from " afar country"
LETTER XLIV.
VISIT ON SHORE, AND DESCRIPTION OF THE SCENERY.
Reception by Mr. Goodrich. — Garden at the Mission-house. — Greetings of the islanders. — Entrance to the bay and surrounding scenery.
Mission- House at Byron's Bay, October 3, 1829.
You will be as much surprised, dear H , at
the place of my present date, as I am at the op- portunity I enjoy of making it. When I wrote yesterday morning, I little thought of spending the night under this roof: but such I am most happy and thankful to say is the fact.
At 11 o'clock I left the ship, in the captain's gig, accompanied by Lieutenant Dornin, and Mid- shipmen Huntt and Wurts : Lieutenant Lardner, the Master, and Midshipman Maury, going in the third cutter. A tremendous swell was setting D 3
58 RECEPTION BY MR. GOODRICH.
towards the land, and it was almost as much as one's life was worth, to attempt getting into the boats, as they rose and fell, apparently ten or twelve feet, with every returning billow. We got off safely however, and as the sea did not break, did very well, with the exception of the long pull to the bottom of the bay. The ship was farther off the land than we thought — not less than eight or nine miles, and it was half-past 12 o'clock before we got into the harbour.
An immense thatched building, beautifully finish- ed, on the western side of the bay, near the river of Wairuku, I rightly judged to be the chapel ; and we steered for it, knowing that the mission- house would be found near. While still a con- siderable distance from the beach, I recognized Mr. Goodrich among a crowd of natives, beckon- ing us to the best spot for landing. Shortly after- wards, our boat touched the Hawaiian shore. A thousand varied thoughts and emotions rushed upon my mind and heart, and I was incapable of lifting up my head, lest I should betray what might be interpreted into a weakness by my com- panions, till I found myself in the strong grasp of a missionary friend and brother. Our meeting was the more impressive and affecting to Mr. Goodrich, from its being entirely unexpected. He had had no further intimation of my proposed visit, than that of having heard of my appointment in the naval service, and of the possibility of my visiting the islands at some future period.
After introducing my fellow- officers, a few
GARDEN AT THE MISSION HOUSE. 59
minutes walk inland brought us to the mission- house, where I was happy to meet Mrs. Goodrich and two little daughters, in good health. Mr. Goodrich is at present without an associate.
The captain had felt it necessary to limit our stay on shore to half an hour, and consequently all was hurry and excitement — a hundred things to learn, a hundred things to tell, and a hundred things to see. After ascertaining that all the mis- sionaries were well, every thing in a most pro- mising and prosperous state, and a great deal else of gratifying intelligence, we took a turn in the garden, where there is much to admire in the variety and luxuriance of the productions of this part of the islands.
The location of the mission ground is much more eligible and delightful than when you were here in 1825; commanding fine views of the har- bour, ocean, and surrounding shores, ornamented and shaded by clumps of the bread-fruit, and pos^- sessing a soil of almost unequalled richness. Every thing except the bread-fruit within the enclosure is the growth of little more than two years. Yet, besides fine hedges of a native tree very similar in appearance to the mountain ash, of the ti — dra- cosna — damask rose, and Cape gooseberry, there are many fine coffee plants, covered with berries of an uncommonly large size, exhibiting a vigour and rankness unequalled by any I saw at Rio de Janeiro ; a fine vineyard, with vines trained into arbours ; tamarind, fig, lime, lemon, orange, and mango trees, strawberries, &c. &c. In the shrub-
60 GREETINGS OF THE ISLANDERS,
bery I observed the pride of Barbadoes — cased- pinia coriaria — the seeds of which, I believe, I brought to the island, thriving finely, and by its rich blossoms of crimson and orange, imparting an air of gaiety to every thing near. The strawberry bed, too, is from seeds sent to me, and received after our return to America.
The news of my arrival spread rapidly among the people, and the house soon began to be thronged with these who had a recollection of me, but whom principally I had forgotten. Many of them shed tears as they embraced and kissed my hands, or sank at my feet, manifesting a degree of sensibility and affection — considering their slight personal knowledge of me — that was surprising, till informed of the happy fact, that a period of deep seriousness and religious feeling has long existed at this place, and that many of these are still under the influence of the lively affections of recent conversion : of a conversion not only from the follies and sins of a worldly life, but from the ignorance, superstition, and prejudices of heathenism, to the love and ser- vices of true piety.
There were those in the number, however, whom you and I not only know, but never can forget — particularly Bartimeus, our blind friend of Lahaina, and John Honorii. They both reside at this station, as assistants to Mr. Goodrich. Many and repeated kind inquiries from them and others were made concerning yourself and children : and (( aroha ino rakou" " great affection for them ," repeatedly burst from their lips.
ENTRANCE TO THE BAY. 61
Our limited half hour was gone before we seemed to have been fifteen minutes on shore : and we felt ourselves obliged even to decline the refreshments which Mrs. Goodrich had kindly prepared,, and to take a hasty leave. The hope, that by some means I might see them again before the Vincennes should bid a final adieu to the islands, prevented the feel- ing that I was bidding them farewell ; and I was therefore saved an unnecessary sorrow.
After a hard row of two hours, we gained the ship; and as soon as the boats were secured, stood away, as we thought, for Maui. But the wind had already become light and baffling ; a heavy swell and current were setting us within the points form- ing the bay, and our prospects of making much progress for the night were very uncertain : so much so, that after a moment's debate, to my surprise, but equally to my satisfaction, the captain deter- mined upon running into the harbour before the land breeze should come off; and by spreading a mountain of light sail, we were gently fanned in ; and by five o'clock were snugly at anchor abreast of the river and waterfall, and of course in the immediate vicinity of this place. Mr. Goodrich, perceiving our design, boarded us in his canoe, in time to point out the best anchorage for a vessel of our class.
As we entered the bay, the rays of the de- clining sun gleamed brightly over the wide extent of open champaign country, distinguishing this part of Hawaii from that of every other island in the Pacific I have yet visited — presenting its broad lawns and
62 ENTRANCE TO THE BAY
dark groves, in lights and shades of exquisite beauty, and in every variety of verdure, from that which seemed almost white to the deepest green.
From the lofty, but primitive looking chapel, as a centre, the humble dwelling of the fisherman and the farmer were seen widely scattered in every direction; some skirting the beach, as it swept round in the beautiful curvature forming the bottom of the bay; some hanging on the cliffs of the bolder shores ; some just peeping from the thick foliage of a grove more inland, or slightly screen- ed by the shade of a small clump or single tree ; and some, again, standing unsheltered and alone in the midst of a wide-spreading field. Such was the foreground; while behind, an extensive country, marked in two or three places by old, long extin- guished, and now verdant craters, rose gradually for miles, to the stately forests enriching the broad bases of Mounaroa and Mounakea, both in distinct view — the first appearing far in the south, above and beyond a line of green forests, in one long, regular, and distant arch of blue — the last, seem- ingly near, towering loftily against the western sky, in irregular and broken summits of gigantic mag- nitude. The admiration of all on board was greatly excited by the scene. I thought, myself, I had scarce ever gazed on one of simple nature more rich and lovely ; and we all rejoiced to be informed from the captain, that being now at anchor, the Vincennes would remain at least a week or ten days, before proceeding to the leeward.
I early took leave of the ship to spend the even-
AND SURROUNDING SCENERY. 63
ing and night on shore, and kept my friends from their rest long beyond their accustomed hour.
As is almost invariably the case in this district,, heavy showers of rain fell during the latter part of the night and morning, and every thing without be- came so perfectly drenched, that I wras kept within doors till a late hour. I felt no disposition, how- ever, to complain of the cause, for the pattering of the rain on the thatch of the roof and sides of the house proved a lullaby so soothing, as to make my repose of the kind, that
" delights Above the luxury of common sleep."
LETTER XLV.
A WORSHIPPING ASSEMBLY AT*HIDO,
Scene on the Sabbath morning1. — Aspect of the congrega- tion.— Evidences of the power of the gospel. — Interest- ing case of attention in an elderly female.
U. S. Ship Vincennes, Byron's Bay, October 4th, 1829.
THE scenes of the sabbath have been such, dear H — , that a review of them, in my own mind, will not be an abuse of sacred time, nor will their perusal give rise to thoughts and affections unsuit- ed to a day of God.
At an early hour of the morning, even before we had taken our breakfasts on board ship, a single islander here or there, or a group of three
64 SCENE ON THE
or four, wrapped in their large mantles of various hues, might be seeii winding their way among the groves fringing the bay on the east, or descending from the hills and ravine on the north, towards the chapel ; and by degrees their numbers increased, till, in a short time, every path along the beach and over the uplands presented an almost uninter- rupted procession, of both sexes and of every age, all pressing to the house of God. So few canoes wrere round the ship yesterday, and the landing- place had been so little thronged, as our boats passed to and fro, that one might have thought the district but thinly inhabited; but now, such multitudes were seen gathering from various di- rections, that the exclamation, " What crowds of people ! what crowds of people /" was heard from the quarter-deck to the forecastle.
Even to myself, it was a sight of surprise: sur- prise, not at the magnitude of the population, but that the object for which they were evidently as- sembling, should bring together so great a multi- tude. And as my thoughts re-echoed the words, " what crowds of people!" remembrances and affections of deep power came over me ; and the silent musings of my heart were " what a change ! what a happy change !" When at this very place, only four years ago, the known wishes and example of chiefs of high authority, the daily persuasion of teachers, added to motives of curiosity and novelty, could scarce induce a hundred of the inhabitants to give an irregular, careless, and impatient attend- ance on the services of the sanctury. But now.
SABBATH MORNING. 65
" Like mountain torrents pouring to the main, From every glen a living stream came forth — From every hill in crowds they hastened down To worship Him, who deigns in humblest fane, On wildest shore, to meet the upright in heart."
The scene, as looked on from our ship, in the stillness of a brightly beaming" sabbath morning-, was well calculated with its associations to prepare the mind for strong impressions on a nearer view, when the conclusion of our own public worship should allow us to go on shore. Mr. Goodrich had apprized us, that he had found it expedient to hold the services of the sabbath, usually attended at all the other stations at nine o'clock in the morning and at four in the afternoon, both in the fore-part of the day, that all might have the benefit of two sermons, and still reach their abodes before nightfall. For,
" Numbers dwelt remote,
And first must traverse many a weary mile, To reach the altar of the God they love."
And it was arranged, that, on this occasion, the second service should be postponed till the offi- cers should be at liberty to leave the ship. It was near twelve o'clock when we went on shore ; the captain and first-lieutenant, the purser, surgeon, several of the midshipmen, and myself. Though the services had commenced when we landed, large numbers were seen circling the doors without, but as we afterwards found, only from the impracti- cability of obtaining places within. The house is an immense structure, capable of containing many thousands, every part of which was filled, except
66 ASPECT OF THE
a small area in front of the pulpit, where seats were reserved for us, and to which we made our way, in slow and tedious procession, from the dif- ficulty of finding a spot to place even our footsteps without treading* on limbs of the people, seated on their feet, as closely, almost, as they could be stowed.
As we entered, Mr. Goodrich paused in his ser- mon till we should be seated. I ascended the pulpit beside him, from which I had a full view of the congregation. The suspense of attention in the people was only momentary, notwithstanding the entire novelty to them of the laced coats, cocked hats, and other appendages of naval uniform. I can scarce describe the emotions experienced, in glancing an eye over the immense number seated so thickly on the matted floor as to seem literally one mass of heads, covering an area of more than nine thousand square feet. The sight was most striking, and soon became, not only to myself, but to some of my fellow- officers, deeply affect- ing.
I have gazed on many worshipping assemblies, and of every variety of character, from those formed of the high and the princely — with a splendour and pageantry of train befitting the magnificence of the cathedrals in which they bowed — to the humblest " two or three" who ever came together at a place " where prayer is wont to be made." I have listened with delighted attention to some of the highest eloquence the pulpits of America and England of the present day can boast, and have
CONGREGATION. 67
watched with sympathetic excitement the effect produced by it, till all who heard were wrapt into an enthusiasm of high-toned feeling, at the subli- mity of the theme presented. I have seen tears of conviction and of penitence flow freely even to the seeming breaking of the heart, under the sterner truths of the word of God : and not unfrequently, too, have witnessed, as the annunciation of e ' Peace — be of good cheer, thy sins are forgiven thee," has fallen on the soul, smiles of hope and joy, such as would adoni an angel's brow, rapidly take their place. Bat it was left for a worshipping assembly at Hido, the most obscure corner of these distant islands, to excite the liveliest emotions ever ex- perienced, and leave the deepest impressions of the extent and unsearchable riches of the Gospel which I have ever known — emotions and impressions derived simply from an ocular demonstration of the power of the word of God on untutored man, which is without a parallel in existing events, if not in the records of history.
It seemed, even while I gazed, that the majesty of that power might be seen rising and erecting to itself a throne, permanent as glorious, in the hearts of these but late utterly benighted and deeply polluted people. And when I compared them, as they had once been known to me, and as they now appeared, the change seemed the effect of a mandate scarce less mighty in its power, or speedy in its result, than that exhibited when it was said " Let there be light T — " and there was light!"
The depth of the impression arose from the irre-
68 EVIDENCES OF THE
sistible conviction that the SPIRIT OF GOD was there : it could have been nothing else. With the exception of the inferior chiefs having- charge of the district, and their dependants, of two or three native members of the church and of the mission family, scarce one of the whole multitude was in • other than the native dress — the maro and the kihei — the simple garments of their primitive state. In this respect, and in the attitude of sitting, the as- sembly was purely pagan, totally unlike those of the Society Islands already described — as unlike as to one at home. But the breathless silence, the eager attention, the half-suppressed sigh, the tear, the various feeling, sad, peaceful, joyous — dis- coverable in the faces of many — all spoke the pre- sence of an invisible but omnipotent power, the power that can alone melt and renew the heart of man, even as it alone first brought it into exis- tence.
It was, in a word, a heathen congregation laying hold on the hopes of eternity — a heathen congre- gation, fully sensible of the darkness and despair of their original state, exulting in the first beams of truth, and in the no uncertain dawning of the Sun of Righteousness : thirsting after knowledge, even while they sweetly drank of the waters of life ; and under the reviving and inspiring influence, by every look, expressing the heartfelt truth— " Beautiful on the mountains are the feet of him that bringeth good tidings; that bringeth good tidings of good, that publisheth SALVATION ! "
From the thousands present, I might select
POWER OF THE GOSPEL. 69
many individuals whose appearance was such as to stamp these impressions indelibly on my heart. The aspect of one, at least, I can never forget : and will attempt to describe. It was a diminutive old woman, shrivelled by age till little more of her figure, with an appearance of health, was left, than skin and bone ; the style of her features, however, was of the regular and more pleasing character found among the islanders, with an amiable and benignant expression, which, in connexion with an entirely whitened head, exacted from the observer a look of kindness in return. Folded in a larg-e
O
mantle of black tapa, she was leaning, when my eyes first fell upon her, against a pillar near the pulpit, beside which she was sitting, with her head inclined upwards, and her eyes fixed upon the preacher. There was not only a seriousness, but a deep pensiveness in her whole aspect, that rivetted my attention : and as Mr. Goodrich proceeded in his discourse, a tear was seen occasionally to start in her eye, and more than one made their way down her deeply wrinkled cheeks upon her mantle.
I had not, in my long absence, so entirely for- gotten the native language, as not to understand much that was said. After some time, this sen- tence was uttered : " We are all sinners — but \\e have a God and Saviour, who will forgive us our sins, if we ask it of him. It is our duty to pray for this to God — and he hears the prayers of all who approach him in sincerity." I happened, at the moment, to look again upon this object — her attitude and aspect were the same, except that
70 INTERESTING CASE OF ATTENTION
her lips moved in the evident and almost audible repetition of the sentence. She again repeated it, as if to be certain that she heard and understood it correctly ; and, as she did so, a bright and peaceful smile spread over every feature — tears gushed rapidly from her eyes, and she hid her face in the folds of her garment. Could I be de- ceived in the interpretation of this case ? C ould I be mistaken in the causes and the nature of those varied emotions, under the circumstances in which they were beheld — and in one of whom I had never heard, and whom I had never before seen ? No, I could not : and if so — what is the language they speak ? They plainly say that this poor woman, grown gray in the ignorance and varied degradation of heathenism, by " the lamp let down from heaven" sees herself to be a sinner, and is oppressed to sadness and to sighing under a sense of her guilt. But she hears of pardon and salvation, freely given to all who will freely re- ceive— hears of the glorious liberty of the Gospel, and of all the rich privileges it confers, even to nigh access and intimate communion with the Father of spirits — hears and believes, and sinks before her God, in tears of gratitude and of joy !
The simple appearance and every deportment of that obscure congregation, whom I had once known, and at no remote period, only as a set of rude^ licentious, and wild pagans, did more to rivet the conviction of the divine origin of the Bible, and of the holy influences by which it is accompanied to the hearts of men, than all the arguments, and apologies, and defences of Christianity I ever read.
IN AN ELDERLY FEMALE. 71
Towards evening, Mr. Stribling and myself went again on shore, and remained till late, learn- ing from our missionary friends the most gratifying intelligence, in corroboration of the opinion formed, in the morning, of the state of the people. An entire moral reformation has taken place in the vicinity of this station. Though latest established, and long far behind others in success and interest, it bids fair, now, to be not a whit behind the very chiefest in its moral and religious achievements. Instruction of every kind is eagerly and universally sought; and only last week, not less than ten thousand people were assembled at an examina- tion of schools. The mission-house is daily crowded with earnest inquiries in every right way ; evil customs and atrocious vices are abandoned ; a strict outward conformity to good morals ob- served ; and numbers, it is hoped and confidently believed, have yielded and are yielding themselves to all the sweet charities and pure affections of o-enuine piety. From many an humble dwelling, now
" is daily heard
The voice of prayer and praise to Jacob's God ; And many a heart in secret heaves the sigh To Him who hears well pleased the sigh contrite."
Even in the hut of the child murderer,
" The father, with his offspring dear, Now bends the knee to God, and humbly asks That he would bless them with a parent's love — With heavenly manna feed their hungry souls, And on their hearts, as Hermon's dew, descend."
72 PREPARATIONS FOR
LETTER XL VI.
JOURNEY TO THE VOLCANO OF KIRAUEA, AND AN ACCOUNT OF ITS PRESENT STATE.
Preparations for leaving the ship. — Residence of Kinai, head man of Ora. — Arrival at the Crater. — Evening scene and lodgings. — Crater at midnight. — Morning walk.— Singular provision of water — Descent of the first cliff. — Glen within the Crater.— Changes on the ledge. — Descent to the bottom. — Examination of two Cones. — Temerity and dangerous feat of an Islander. — Sublime night-scene. — Pedestrians in a storm.
U. S. Ship Vincennes, Byron's Bay, October 9, 1829.
THE planning of a trip to the volcano at the base of the mountain Mounaroa, thirty-five miles inland from this harbour, was a first subject of attention, after being safely moored on Friday. A party, of which you will not be surprised to hear that I made one, was immediately formed ; and Maaro, the head man of the district, engaged to furnish us with twenty stout men — of whom John Honorii was to be manager — to carry our provisions and luggage.
Accordingly, early on Monday morning, we were found in all the bustle of a hasty preparatio for the excursion • and, after a general overhaul- ing of wardrobes for old hats, old coats, and old clothes of every description, except old shoes, ex-
LEAVING THE SHIP. 73
hibited, on mustering' on the quarter-deck after breakfast, a party in costume as appropriate to a pedestrian journey at Hawaii, as at variance with the prescribed dress of the service, on board ship. Our number was composed of Lieutenants Dornin, Magruder, and Lardner, Purser Buchanan, the Surgeon, Midshipmen Bissell, Huntt, Melville, Wurts, and myself, with one or two servants to take charge of various good things, in chest and basket, and to keep under appetites occasionally disposed, even in ordinary circumstances, to be rebellious.
By nine o'clock we were all stowed in the first cutter, which was to take us to Maaro's house, at the fish-ponds, to meet the men hired of him; and shortly after, well pleased to be off, and full of high-toned spirits from the anticipated interest of our excursion, we waved farewell to those who re- luctantly stayed behind
" to walk the deck, " And guard the ship from foe or wreck."
We soon, however, met with a damper to our buoyancy, in a genuine Hido shower, which de- tained us a long time at Maaro's ; and, by filling everything- in our way with water, effectually ren- dered the precaution we had taken against the morn- ing wetness of the grass and bushes, in determin- ing not to start till after breakfast, of no avail. Before eleven o'clock, all again was brightness ; and, after seeing our various luggage distributed among the islanders, we set off. The whole route
to VOL. II. E
74 RESIDENCE OF KINAl,
is so minutely, and,, from second observation, I can confidently add, so correctly described, in the published account of our residence in this nation, that, in place of repetition, with the privilege of an author, I will say, see ' ' Stewart, on the Sandwich Islands"
We accomplished fourteen miles just after four o'clock; and finding excellent accommodations for the night at that distance, determined to sleep before proceeding farther. The establishment, consisting of three houses, situated a short distance from the road, on the borders of a fine tract of land, having very much the appearance of a large plantation of intermingled arable and meadow grounds at home, and just at the edge of a fine forest running from the sea to the interior — belongs to Kinai, the head man of the thinly inhabited district of Ora. The master and his family were absent some thirty or forty miles, superintending the cutting of sandal- wood ; and a few domestics only were at home in charge of the houses. These, however, received us very kindly; and, at once, surrendered the principal habitation entirely to us — a kindness for which we were sufficiently fatigued to be truly thankful.
Here we were quickly made sensible that th( improvements and advancement of the people ai not limited to the seaports or to the coast. Th< house was divided into separate rooms by screei of native cloth and mats, furnishing distinct sleep- ing places for the inmates, besides one large am airy apartment, evidently kept as a better anc
HEAD MAN OF QUA. 75
principal room. Into this last we were shewn ; and a fine saloon at an American hotel, had we been travelling where we could have commanded
O
it, would not have been so great a luxury to us, as the neatness and evident comfort of this, under the circumstances in which we were.
The finer mats for the floor were economically rolled up against one side of the house, to save them from injury in the absence of the chief ; and other derangement of the ordinary articles of use was observable from the same cause — so that we did not see the establishment in its best state. Still, everything testified, in my eyes, to a vast improve- ment in the style of living, even among the inferior chiefs. Among other evidences of advancement were the few books yet printed in the native tongue, well bound and wrapped in covers of na- tive cloth ; and a large slate suspended against one of the partitions.
But that which our party, in general, hailed with most pleasure, was a fine lounge or divan, eight or ten feet in width, extending the whole length of the apartment. It was composed of a great number of thicknesses of mats, on a platform of wood, ele- vated about two feet from the floor, and sur- rounded by curtains of neat furniture chintz, af- forded a couch for the whole of our number, which we might have coveted under circumstances of
55
much less fatigue.
Indeed the comfort of the accommodations — a refreshing cup of tea and a substantial supper — the novelty of every thing around — freedom from the
E2
'b ARRIVAL AT
confinement of the vessel, and with it, from the tedium of the night watch, &c. &c., gave such a flow to the lively spirits of some of our younger companions, as to make it a late hour before wo were composed to quietude and to sleep.
Nothing of particular interest occurred the next day till we had arrived in the immediate vicinity of the volcano. The smoke ascending from it was discerned at a much greater distance — ten or twelve miles — than on my former visit ; and was so mas- sive in its columns, as to promise a high state of action. I regretted to ascertain, that the only hut now standing, in which we could find shelter, was at a different place from that which we had occu- pied in 1825; and that, in going to it, wre should approach the crater in a different and less striking manner. I was wishing to have all my first im- pressions and emotions renewed : and, in the dis- appointment, almost lost the wildness and beauty of the more gradual descent of the precipices, which we were making, by a path which branched off from the old one, just as we were coming upon them. The nearness of night, and a threatening of rain, however, left me no alternative — and I hastened on with my companions, to catch a first view, under whatever advantages the newr approach might offer.
Our arrival was more sudden than I had expected it to be. I had been looking for some more abrupt descent than any we had yet made, and was strain- ing my eyes into the vast body of thick and heated smoke — rising high to heaven and spreading widely
THE CRATER. 77
over the whole hemisphere to the south — for at least a glimpse of the tremendous gulf from whence it issued, when, scarce without warning, we found our- selves entering heavy currents of steam, rising ra- pidly from crevices and deep fissures about our path, and extending, at intervals, on one side, to the smoke from the crater, and on the other, to a low precipice flanking our right. This, on turning to- wards it, was seen itself, in many places, even to its very top, to smoke like a coal-kiln. The whole sur- face of the level on which we were — a plain a mile in length, and half a mile in breadth, enclosed on the edge of the crater by a sweep of the precipice — ex- hibited, in a greater or less degree, the same evi- dences of wide-spread subterranean burnings.
The trade- wind blew freshly, and swept the dense steam and highly heated air, bursting from the ground, in strong currents and whirling eddies across our path ; and, at the same time, bore before it above, a thick and gloomy scud from the sea, flying so low as to brush swiftly through the trees on the top of the precipice, and at times to be scarce above our heads. Everything wore a foreboding and sad- dening aspect ; and, whatever I felt I had lost in a clear and distant view — like that enjoyed when with Lord Byron — the sight of the hut, which was to be our sleeping place, still far ahead, and, seemingly, in the midst of these admonitory signs of a dan- gerous substratum, gave rise to a sense of exposure, and to apprehensions not experienced on the for- mer occasion.
The rude lodge we were to occupy, open in front,
78 EVENING SCENE,
and only slightly thatched on the side next the wind, stands two or three hundred yards from the edge of the crater on the north end,, but does not command a view below ; we, therefore, scarce stopped at it, but with impatient eagerness hurried to the brink. It was, however, only to meet with disappointment: the smoke in the whole chasm was so dense as to be utterly impenetrable — a flickering flame, here and there, was only occasionally to be seen through its thickness ; and, now and then, a sudden flash, sending an illuminated column high towards the summit. Still the sight was deeply impressive. It \vas evident that the perpendicular depth, from our very footsteps down, was tremendous, and seeming- ly unfathomable ; and the obscure outline of the upper edges, sweeping off on either hand till lost to the eye in the smoke, gave an impression of awful immensity, disposing one to shrink back from the proximity already adventured.
Another cause of disappointment was the ab- sence of those terrific noises, which on my first visit were constantly bursting upon the ear : now scarce a sound was to be heard, except the rushing of the wind, as it swept over the edges of the cliffs, to the more rarified atmosphere within — unless it were an occasional indistinct sigh — a half smothered murmur or wheeze — and now and then, as a lull or eddy o the wind rendered the hearing1 from that directio
*5
more distinct, the hiss of escaping steam, and some thing like the simmer and the bubbling of a mighty cauldron, mingled with the distant sound of a surf rolling on a pebbly beach.
I
!-
AND LODGINGS. 79
There was in this assemblage of images — in the lowery sky and driving wind — in the riven and steaming ground — in the heavy masses of smoke rising from the hideous chasm beneath, as if from a bottomless pit — and in the oppressive and sadden- ing sounds occasionally coming to the ear — that, which was well suited to the recollection of years gone by, and of friends afar, who had once shared with me in the enthusiasm of high-wrought admi- ration, excited by the same object. And, in the indulgence of
— " a mood of mind we all have known,"
thus induced by circumstances and by scene, I lin- gered on the brink till completely chilled by the increasing freshness and dampness of the breeze.
The rude hut, or rather screen against the wind — consisting of poles propt in a slanting position, and covered on one side only with a few leaves of the sugar-cane, and bushes slightly placed upon them, we thought for a time very comfortable, and wisely located as to temperature; being on a spot of ground of such grateful heat, compared with the rawness of the mountain air, as to lead us to con- gratulate ourselves in the advantage it afforded, as we sat on our various packages in front, and par- took of our evening repast, within a foot of a cre- vice, from which steam issued of such power as to cook our potatoes in a short time, without the aid of fire. But when we came to take possession of the mats strewn inside of it for beds, we found our- selves in quarters considerably hotter than those in which Coleman the poet puts his lodger ove*
80 CRATER AT MIDNIGHT.
the bake-shop. You will scarce believe, that we all slept on a temperature of 120° Farenheit — but such is the fact : and it was well the air above was as low as 56° or 60°, so that by frequent turnings., we could let one side cool while the other was cook- ing, or we should have been well-nigh parboiled by morning. There was no alternative, however — it was the only shelter — and as there were dashes of rain through the night, it would have been almost death to have slept in the open air, on any cooler bed. We, therefore, made the best of the necessity; and after many a twist and toss of restlessness, an occasional groan of impatience, and not a few fore- bodings, from one part of our bower or another, that we should be steamed to skeletons before morn- ing, we made out a tolerable night's rest; and were quite in good-humour with our dormitory, to find, on rising, that the continued vapour bath had dissi- pated, almost entirely, the stiffness of limb which most of us had suffered from the length and rapi- dity of our walk.
I rose at midnight, and went to the crater. The steam from above was still driving in thick volumes over the cliffs ; and with the smoke from below, ren- dered every thing obscure: but various seats of fire, in tremendous action, sent up flashes of light through the dimness, to the highest clouds, and at times converted the w7hole body of smoke into one lurid mass. Some of the spots apparently most liquid and most agitated, were immediately below the place where I stood ; and, now and then, fiery streams in them, circling widely and swiftly in dif-
MORNING WALK. 81
ferent directions, glared on the eye, in all the regu- larity and brilliancy of the lamps of an orchestra. But as these exhibitions were but fitful and obscure, compared with what I had on a former occasion beheld, and the wind bleak and piercing, I was glad to make a hasty and shivering return to the warmth of my couch.
The morning was bright and beautiful, affording us, with a sky as purely blue as any ever looked on, splendid views in purple of Mounaroa, seem- ingly close at hand, and of Mounakea far behind us in the distance. I was at the crater again before sunrise, and followed its brink a half mile and more westward, with an opportunity of distinguishing for the first time its characteristic features. But the light of the day had extinguished the fires where, in the night, the principal action had been; nothing could now be discerned but smoking lakes, or black cones, tipped with pale, sulphureous flames.
Having reached the spot where the low precipice enclosing the level on which the hut stands termi- nates at the crater, I took a path crossing it towards the forests lying between the volcano and Mou- naroa. Mr. Magruder and Mr. Lardner had gone in the same direction with their fowling-pieces in search of wild ducks, for a more sumptuous dinner than we could otherwise command. I joined them, and on the way we fed luxurio usly on the whortle- berries of Pele, which covered the whole surface of the ground, in rich clusters of the finest size, dripping with the rain of the night, not knowing E3
82 SINGULAR PROVISION OF WATER.
how much more delicate a repast there was in re- serve for us, beyond the rising ground over which we were walking, in an abundance of delightful strawberries. These are found principally in an open meadow-like place, skirting a wood of noble trees of the eugenia and acacia,
In returning, we passed by the pools furnishing visitors with the only water in the vicinity. Its pre- paration is a kind provision, not only for the weary traveller, as he occasionally crosses the island at this wonderful place, but for the fowls of the air, who, at most times, find security in the regions around — I say preparation, for the provision, though natural, is strictly such, and one of the most singular in the world — it is by the conden- sation of steam escaping from holes and crevices in the ground immediately to the windward of a bed of earth and lava, so hard and compact, as to be impervious to water, and into excavations and natural basins, of which the drops, formed by the effect of the cold wind upon the vapour, fall, and furnish a constant supply of the purest water. I looked with admiration on the simple process ever taking place, and thought with wonder and grati- tude of the wisdom and goodness of the Almighty, often displayed in the economy of nature, in which circumstances seemingly small and unimportant, are not only highly condusive to the comfort, but vitally essential to the well-being of his creatures. Well indeed may it be said, that ' ' His WORKS DO PRAISE HIM."
Soon after breakfast we began to prepare for a
DESCENT OF THE FIRST CLIFF. 83
descent below ; and, before long, were all mar- shalled and equipped with long canes, water flasks, &c. for the undertaking1. Directly in front of our sleeping place, and entirely round the western side, the descent to the ledge, or offset, is a per- pendicular wall of nine hundred feet; we there- fore went some quarter or half mile to the east, by the direction of our attendants, many of whom had, within the last two or three years, been here with several successive parties. On coming to the path leading down, I was quite surprised to find the commencement of it so different from that of my former descent. Indeed, I did not know till then that any part within the upper circumference presented such an aspect at a single view, afford- ing the most conclusive proof ^f the kind of pro- cess going on in the undermining of the surround- ing mountain ; and of the manner in which the enormous fires beneath are fed, when old masses of matter upon which they have been acting, be- come utterly reduced to scoria and ashes.
After an almost perpendicular descent of eighty or a hundred feet, in accomplishing which we at times hung from rock to rock, the path came upon an extent of ground, half a mile in length and a quarter broad, broken into abrupt hills and deep glens, and covered with grass, shrubbery, and small trees. The whole declines gradually several hundred feet towards the crater, and con= stitutes a little valley, separated from it by a suc- cession of barren hills, of volcanic rock and sand. It had evidently been shattered into its present
84 GLEN WITHIN THE CRATER.
forms, and sunk from the level above, at no very remote period, in some convulsion, after its foun- dations had been sapped by the element still raging beneath; and it is not improbable that, even now, the whole is suspended on some compara- tively slender base, till another throe shall open for it a descent into a fiery abyss, to be converted in its turn into a mass of liquid fire.
The scenery here was strikingly unique and ro- mantic, consisting, above and behind us, of the bare and perpendicular face of rocks, from which this section had been rent as it came down, and of a succession of miniature mountains and ravines, thrown into every wild form, and still beautifully verdant with various growth. The path winding over and through these, though plain and seem- ingly safe, is in truth the most dangerous that I have met in the whole region. In many places the bushes and grass skirting it, either partially or entirely conceal the most horrible pits and fissures, into which, almost without knowing it, a single false step, or a slip, might plunge one, to be heard of no more. In several instances, when least dreaming of danger, I have come upon some of these, with a suddenness and want of caution that have made my blood curdle, as I ventured a gaze into their yawning and unfathomable mouths. Once, in particular, the first intimation I had of being near any thing of the kind, was the heat against my face of the steam issuing from it, my feet being already on the very brink ; it was suffi- ciently large to admit the stoutest man entire ; of
CHANGES ON THE LEDGE. 85
a depth to which the eye could not reach, and filled with vapour scalding hot ! To have fallen into it must have been instant and irrecoverable destruction. In another place the path led over a crack, to all appearance without bottom, several feet in width, and extending on either hand, as far as we could distinguish, by a single narrow arch of a foot's breadth only, in the manner of a natural bridge, from which to have stepped would have been for eternity !
After traversing this singularly located glen, we found ourselves still four or five hundred feet above the ledge, within the crater, and the descent to it very abrupt and difficult, from the hardness and smoothness of the lava of which chiefly it is con- stituted. In many places, large streams of no very ancient date — since they cooled and hardened in their running1 form — marked the sides of the cliff ;
& y
and by a principal one of these, resembling a cas- cade still pouring down the face of the hill, most of our party, in slow and necessarily cautious pro- gress, reached the offset, or natural gallery, run- ning round the chasm.
Here the changes that have taken place since 1825 first became striking The general features
O O
were much the same ; but almost every spot, when looked upon in detail, shows evidence of new and tremendous act on of fire, and of convulsion after convulsion, that must have shaken every thing far and wide. The greatest alteration, however, is that of which I had been apprised — the filling up of the whole surface below the ledge, at least two
86 DESCENT TO
hundred feet. The depth below this was estimated by Lord Byron's party at five hundred feet — at present it cannot,, on an average, be more than two hundred. Many of the highest of the cones have thus, been much reduced in their loftiness; and many have entirely disappeared. In all other re- spects, the general surface and aspect is the same, though there is much more fire in the north end than formerly ; and the very route we took in crossing the bottom at that time, is now a chain of liquid lakes from one side to the other.
My first walk on the ledge was westward — the same direction I went when with Lord Byron — but I had not proceeded half the length of the northern side, before the way was interrupted by a sulphur cone, which has risen on the ledge, and which was surrounded by such a suffocating vapour as to prevent passing. I therefore returned to my companions, who were busily employed in gather- ing curious specimens of a variety of kinds, till I should return to accompany them down the re- maining distance to the bottom.
By the rising of the lava, the difficulty of making the descent is, in a great degree, done away in those places where it was ever practicable ; and it occupied but a few moments to go down. The surface is more broken and distorted than ever, and presents a truly hideous mass of ruins. There being much more fire at the north end than in 1825, the currents of heated and gaseous air are more numerous, and more strongly impregnated ; and, consequently, an examination more hazardous.
THE BOTTOM. 87
Our number became divided into separate parties — one of which went far into the middle of the northern section, and believe themselves to have been at the very edge of the largest lake, seen in powerful action the night before. The specimens of sulphur collected from its border are of the finest and most beautiful kind, but so recently formed and so delicate as to be very difficult of preservation.
In the course of the two or three hours we were at the bottom, we visited four cones — all the centres of great activity in the fires. The first was almost encrusted with sulphur ; and could be approached only on the windward side, from the heat and suf- focating vapour in every other direction. This was only a few feet high ; and wre got near enough to touch the sides and top with our canes. Though smoke and steam were projecting from its top with great force and considerable noise, we perceived no flame or liquid lava ; but the roaring of mighty fires below were distinctly heard, and, at a nearness, that marked with temerity the adventure that brought us within the hearing of its undulating and deeply menacing sounds.
The eager curiosity, however, which rendered us in a degree insensible to the hazards of our situa- tion, was afterwards more completely gratified, in a visit to two others, much more lofty and unique, and altogether more imposing in their state and aspect. They were situated a mile farther south, along the eastern side ; and our attention was called to them by the loud hissing and laborious action of
88 EXAMINATION
steam,, and by the flames which, occasionally^ flashed from their summits. They were in the neighbourhood of each other, each about twenty feet in height, not more than sixty in circumference at the base, and tapering almost to a point at the top, being in fact two immense hollow columns, formed by successive slight overflowings of lava, cooling as it rolled down into irregular flirtings, ornamented with rude drops and pendants, and long tapering stalactites.
The nearness of our approach, and the examina- tion of these were greatly exciting. Though the ragings beneath must have been intense — from the tremendous roar within, the irresistible force and deafening hiss with w^hich the steam rushed from every opening, and from the flames which flashed up, followed by lava white with an intensity of heat — still the incrustation of scoria immediately around seemed firm, and was less hot than in many other places: admitting, not only of our coming close to the sides of the cone, but also of clamber- ing some feet up them, till we could run our canes into the orifices at the top, and withdraw, with their burning ends, red hot lava, on which we readily made impressions with pencil-cases and naval buttons.
Pele did not seem well pleased with this fami- liarity, however — even the slightest touch with our sticks against the molten lava produced an in- creased rush and roar from below, with an angry spitting of the fiery matter high in the air around us ; and more than once, we retreated hastily to
OF TWO CONES. 89
a more respectful distance, anticipating- from the ill-natured mutterings and menacing struggles of her ladyship,, to see a burning stream roll forth to put an effectual barrier to such close inspec- tion.
So much of novelty, so much of fearful sub- limity,, attracts the attention and calls for admira- tion, on every side, that day after day, in place of a single morning, would be insufficient to ex- haust the points of interest in this grand object : and we regretted the necessity, that hunger, thirst, and fatigue imposed upon us, of taking leave of the depths to which we had descended.
The ascent to our cabin, by the same path we came, was toilsome in the extreme ; and but for the refreshment derived from the whortle-berries — after having surmounted the first cliffs — we should have been almost entirely overcome.
The first evening of our arrival from the bay, while standing on the edge of the crater, a sudden blast of wind brushed from my head a Leghorn hat, which I had worn to shield my face, by its broad rim, from the sun ; and in an instant swept it out of sight over the precipice, as was then sup- posed, beyond all recovery. But, while at dinner, after having reached the hut, we were alarmed by the running of one of the natives from the crater, calling, in great agitation, for a rope, which had been used in lashing our provision chest ; and on hastily demanding what was the matter, learned that an islander, when below in the morning, had caught a glimpse of it, lodged on the face of the
90 TEMERITY AND DANGEROUS
precipice over which it had been blown, some dred or more feet below the summit ; and that, coming- up, he had gone over the brink, and by most frightful effort, had succeeded in gaining possession of it. After making his way back, how- ever, till within some twenty or thirty feet of the top, he found it impossible to get farther, and was then standing on a single projecting stone, in danger every moment of losing his hold, and of being precipitated to instant destruction, down a wall-faced cliff of at least nine hundred feet !
We shuddered at the bare thought of what the catastrophe might be — but seeing a sufficient num- ber of the natives collected to render any assist- ance practicable, we waited the event in silent agitation ; not wishing to be exposed to the pos- sibility of witnessing with our eyes, what might be too horrid to relate. In a few moments we had the happiness to perceive, from the general move- ment and appearance of his companions, that the attempt at rescue had been successful ; and, shortly after, pale as death — trembling like an aspen leaf, and covered with a cold sweat, he came and laid the old Leghorn at my feet !
The hat was not worth a moment of anxiety, much less the exposure undergone ; and, while I rewarded the intrepidity of the young man, I felt disposed to reprove the daring rashness that led to the exhibition of it. None but the kindest and most disinterested motives induced the attempt— a principal one, doubtless, being that of seeing me under the necessity of resorting to a turban of silk
FEAT OF AN ISLANDER. 91
handkerchiefs, to shield my head from a noonday sun — and though alarming- in its possible conse- quences, the motive merited commendation and grateful acknowledgment.
The remainder of the day was almost necessarily, from the exhaustion of the morning, given to loung- ing and repose. As the darkness of the night closed around us, however, we took a station in sight of the crater, and, wrapped in our cloaks, sat in the fresh wind on the precipice for an hour or more, catching occasionally, through the smoke, exhibitions of great beauty and sublimity. But there were none to prevent a feeling of disappoint- ed expectation, on my part, in comparison with the high gratification before derived from the same object ; and I returned to our lodge with my com- panions, thinking that I must remain indebted to my first visit, for the sublimest impressions ever made on my mind and feelings by a work of nature.
In this, however, I was mistaken. After some hours of sound sleep, I awoke • and perceiving the smoke and clouds over the volcano to be splen- didly illuminated, hastened with a glass to a point of observation. A very sensible change had taken place in the liveliness of the seats of fire — in the vividness of the flashings of light — and in the sharp- ness and force of the sounds from various parts. I had been seated about ten minutes, fixing the field of the telescope on one and another of the cones, and on the lakes and rivers of bright lava, with great delight, when a sudden hissing and mingling
92 SUBLIME MGHT SCENE.
of confused sounds,, accompanied by a brilliant glare of flames almost directly beneath me, attracted my attention, and led me to direct the glass to the spot. In doing this, I was presented with a spectacle which even imagination itself can scarce rival.
The power of the glass was such as to bring the scene, seemingly, within touching distance, and to make me involuntarily recoil, from the apparent proximity to which I was brought by it. A lake, a half mile or more in circumference — and pro- bably but just unclosed — was raging in all the tumult of a tempest at sea. At first, the agitation was perpendicular — precisely that of a boiling cauldron — tossing up masses of the red-hot mat- ter, in a bubbling action, fifteen and twenty feet, with a rapidity of motion equal to that of the most heated boiler. Then came a long regular motion from the south, heaving before it a fiery surf, whose billows rose, and crested, and broke, in sheets and spray of fire, like heavy billows sweeping over a reef to the shore ! The effect was almost too fearful to be gazed on ; and, for a mo- ment— in forgetfulness of the distance and safety of my location — as billow after billow rose higher and higher and seemed ready to dash over me, with an exclamation of horror, I dropped the glass and closed my eyes upon the sight.
I would have run for my fellow-travellers, but feared, that before they could be roused and would reach the spot, the aspect of the scene might be entirely altered. This indeed would have been
PEDESTRIANS IN A STORM. 93
the case ; for,, in less than fifteen minutes, the agi- tation had entirely ceased, and the surface soon became less bright and fiery than that of many other spots. I waited a long time, hoping to see it renewed, but in vain ; and then returned to my couch under an excitement of varied emotion, ad- miration, awe, and deep humility, before the ma- jesty and power of the Almighty in his works, never before experienced ; and repaid a hundred- fold, by the scene, for all the fatigue and exposure of the journey.
In the nearness and distinctness of the view, and in the clear perception of the form, character, and power of the action, it far surpassed any thing be- held on the nights I was there with Lord Byron — though the general exhibitions, at that period, were far more beautiful, and less obscured by smoke, than during this visit.
Early on Thursday morning, our encampment was in the bustle of preparation for a return to the bay : and breakfast was finished, and our long pro- cession formed, by half-past six o'clock. The weather did not promise much in our favour. The clouds were low and scudding — every thing wore rather a gloomy aspect — and we had scarce accomplished three miles before it began to rain ; and in a short time, we found ourselves in a per- fect storm. There was no alternative, however, but as rapid a march as possible. With stiffened and swollen limbs and feet, shoes very much the worse for service already performed, stores nearly expended, a driving rain in our faces, and a walk
94 PEDESTRIANS IN A STORM.
of twenty miles to accomplish before we coul reach a shelter, we did not feel much disposed be facetious ; and formed rather a silent and wo< begone procession, compared with the buoyant with which we had hurried over the same groui two days bef-jre.
Each one seemed to think, that the sooner he brought his own precious body under cover the better ; and we made short work, to the residence of Kinai, the petty chieftain cf Ora. We were there by 12 o'clock ; and found his establish- ment tenfold more welcome than before. All of us were drenched with rain, and in a state greatly to relish the luxury of a large fire and a change of clothes, wrhich our portmanteaus still fortunately afforded. We should have remained here all night had there been no rain, and therefore the storm, instead of being an annoyance, rather added to the cheerfulness of our spirits, when screened from its power.
We wTere off early again in the morning; and after a very fatiguing walk, from the wetness of the path, and the excessively bad state in which we found the road through the wood, reached Maaro's about noon. An express had been sent a-head, with information of our approach, and a request for a boat to be in waiting for us, so that we were safely on board the Vincennes in time for a dinner, for which we had long felt well-set appetites.
Thus, dear H , you have the outline of a
second excursion to the habitation of PELE.
ARRIVAL AT THE BAY.
LETTER XLVII.
CASCADE OF THE RAINBOW.
Ramble along the Wairuku. — Circumstances of a fatal casualty. — Description of the Cascade. — Adjoining- Scenery.
U. S. Ship Vincennes, Byron's Bay, October 10th, 1829.
WE were to have sailed for Oahu at 4 o'clock this morning- ; but before our anchors were up the land breeze died away, and it became necessary to drop them again. All hands were kept on board till after dinner, in the hope that we might still be able to get out of the harbour : but then, there being- little prospect of this for the day, Captain Finch allowed a party to go on shore, to be re- called in case of a change of wind, by the firing of a gun, and the hoisting of a flag at the foremast head.
I did not regret the detention. There is one object worthy of notice, in the vicinity of the bay, which I had not previously an opportunity of visit- ing1— a waterfall in the Wairuku, two or three miles above its mouth, called by the natives, " ke Wai Ami e nue" "the Cascade of the Rainbow " from the beautiful exhibition of that phenomenon on the spray created by it, whenever the sun is unshaded.
Mr. Goodrich had dined with us, and became
96 RAMBLE ALONG THE WAIRUKU.
;.
the guide to this spot of a party, consisting of Lieutenant Stribling, Midshipmen Irving, Smith, Rowan, Maury, Taylor, Anthony, and myself. We landed at the mouth of the Wairuku, on the wild rocks forming its precipitous banks. This place has been a favourite resort of our gentle men ; and the untiring feats of the islanders, throwing themselves from some of the highest of the adjoining cliffs — thirty, forty, and fifty feet — into the basins below, and in gliding down the falls above the watering-place, at the seeming hazard of being dashed to death, have daily afforded them great amusement.
' The path to the curiosity we intended visiting, led us along the top of the high banks and preci- pices edging the ravine, through which the Wairuku — by a gradually descending and winding course — rumbles and foams over its rocky bed, from the mountains fifteen or twenty miles inland to the bay. A bright and beautiful afternoon, after a clouded and dull morning, added to the unex- pected pleasure of another ramble over these ver- dant and truly charming shores, and the gratify- ing thought of leaving nothing of interest in the immediate neighbourhood unseen, imparted great vivacity to our company. I scarce know when I have more enjoyed the freshness of the land, the beauty of grass and flower, the twittering of the birds, and the babblings of the mountain stream, with varied other sources of delight both to the eye and to the ear, connected with the landscape around, than on this occasion.
A FATAL CASUALTY. 97
When a mile on our way, we heard the pouring of a waterfall ; and soon came in sight of one, ex- tending like a mill-dam,, in an unbroken ledge, across the stream. It is some sixteen or twenty feet in height, and very similar in its general cha- racter to one or two of the most admired sections of the range of cascades, forming the falls of the Canada creek, at Trenton in the state of New York.
In many places the bed of the river is deep— ap- parently unfathomable ; and at such parts espe- cially, the embankments are bold and abrupt — forty, sixty, and a hundred feet high — and gene- rally perpendicular. One of the loftiest and most precipitous, just below the cascade to which we were going, was regarded by us with particular interest as designating the scene of one of those tragic casualties, which, unhappily, have thrown a melancholy, though perhaps not unprofitable as- sociation, over two or three of the most celebrated resorts of a similar kind in our own country.
Not long since, a young female, with some of her companions, strolled up the banks of the river, to gather flowers for the wreaths worn as orna-
O
ments of the head and neck. On reaching this spot, a splendid cluster of the crimson blossoms of the ohia leihua — a species of eugenia — caught her eye, on the branch of a tree hanging over the pre- cipice. Poising herself against a limb which she thought secure, she stretched her hand after the flower ; when — in the act of seizing it — her sup- port suddenly gave way, and she was plunged to instant death, in the whirling eddies of the gulf
VOL. II. F
98 DESCRIPTION OF THE CASCADE.
below ! The young- tree, flourishing1 gaily in the splendour of its dark green foliage and rich blos- soms, still marks the fatal locality ; and, as long as it remains, will doubtless recall to the islanders the doom of the youthful victim of vanity.
The principal object of our ramble surpassed, in novelty and beauty, every anticipation. It is de- cidedly superior in the variety of its points of in- terest, to any other of the kind I have ever seen. It is also strikingly unique. The projection of water is one hundred and ten feet in height : and
O y
the offset causing it, in the view had of it from below, strictly a natural bridge, spanning the basin into which the water is poured, in one broad arch, resting on either side upon massive abutments of basaltic rock. The arch, however, instead of being open entirely through is the entrance of a deep recess or cavern, into the darkness and gloom of which the sight can scarce penetrate.
The basin beneath — a perfect circle of some hun- dred yards diameter — is as placid as a lake, ex- cept where the stream plunges into it from above, and completely walled in, save at a single narrow- outlet, by precipices of rock a hundred and fifty feet or more high, richly covered with moss, fern, and shrubbery. An insulated, pyramidal peak, at the base of which we stood, rises directly op- posite to the cascade ; its formation, like that of the arch, being almost precisely that of the Giant's Causeway, possessing the same distinctive cha- racteristics in form, and in regularity of arrange- ment.
ADJOINING SCENERY. 99
There was something- so secluded in the location, so wild in the outline, so rich and beautiful in the foliage and clothing- of the cliffs, and in the man- tling of their summits, so imposing in the rushing of the stream — as it poured itself in a silvered mass, directly, as it were, from the blue bosom of the sky, and then plung-ed, in equal splendour, into the depths below — that we were irresistibly charmed with the whole scene ; and greatly re- gretted that we should not have an opportunity of revisiting- it for a day, in addition to the single hour we could now remain.
There is another waterfall in the Wairuku, still farther inland, which, Mr. Goodrich thinks, can- not be less than three hundred feet in height.
o
Indeed, the numerous streams furrowing this sec- tion of Hawaii, from the mountains to the shore, are filled with them ; and the whole may appro • priately be styled " the region of cascades."
We returned to the bay by a different path from that by which we went up. It led us directly to a range of three old craters, in the rear of the mission-house, and half a mile from it. The highest and largest is that next the bay; and, when viewed from the water, partially conceals the others. Its truncated summit, a half mile in circumference, rises three or four hundred feet above the adjoining ground ; and is now, in every part, perfectly covered with turf. The sides of the rims next the sea, are in all of them the lowest ; and show plainly, that when in action, they disgorged themselves in that direction. Mr. F 2
100 THE LAST PRIESTESS OF PELE.
Goodrich has encircled the largest with a broad, deep ditch ; and converted it into a pasturage for his cattle, and for the horses of some of the chiefs, which have been sent to Hido for keeping. The tops of the craters command fine views of the surrounding country ; especially of the bay, in its entire outline — from the blue and peaceful waters of which the Vincennes was now seen to rise, loftily and beautifully, with her long pennant and broad banner gleaming brightly in the setting sun.
LETTER XLVIII.
THE HEREDITARY AND LAST PRIESTESS OF PELE.
Personal Appearance of the Priestess. — Instance of affected inspiration. — Conversion to Christianity— Former Sacri- fices to Pele. — Total Subversion of the Heathenism of the Country.
U. S. Ship Vincennes, Byron's Bay, October 12, 1829.
ON our return from the cascade of the Rainbow, Mr. Stribling and myself called at the mission- house, and were, unexpectedly, gratified by an interview with the hereditary and last PRIESTESS OF PELE.
In speaking of the volcano, Mr. Goodrich inci- dentally remarked, that this individual was now residing in the immediate neighbourhood • and, at our suggestion, sent, a messenger to invite her over. She almost immediately came, attended by her
PERSONAL APPEARANCE OF THE PRIKSTESS. 101
household, consisting of eight or ten individuals, male and female. I should judge her to be forty or forty-five years of age ; a tall, finely formed, majestic woman, wrapped in a large black mantle of native cloth, falling in thick folds like the Roman toga, from the bust to the ground. We were much impressed with her appearance as she entered at the head of her train, and, after re- ceiving our salutations, became seated on a mat in the centre of the apartment, in the attitude of a Turkish female on a divan. The style of her face is remarkably noble and commanding — indi- cative of strong traits of character — with a full piercing black eye, which I can readily imagine, might be fearfully intimidating to the superstitious, when flashing in the wildness of an imaginary in- spiration. There was not only a deep seriousness, but a decided cast of melancholy in her whole aspect, which reminded me, in connection with the strongly marked and superior contour of her features, of a fine print of the tragic muse, which I recollect to have seeu.
Perhaps the impression on my mind was deep- ened by the recollection of a rencontre, when a resident of Lahaina, with an inferior priestess of the same order, then still holding, or claiming the pre- rogatives of her class. I unexpectedly met her in an evening wralk, followed by a considerable com- pany ; some evidently under the influence of a su- perstitious feeling in reference to her; and others, as evidently disposed to deride her pretensions. She was dressed in a fantastic manner, with dis-
102 INSTANCE OF AFFECTED INSPIRATION.
bevelled hair — her eyes flashing in a half-frenzy, from the degree of excitement to which she had
o
wrought herself — and appeared altogether like a maniac : such as I supposed her in reality to be, till undeceived by the exclamations of the crowd, " it is a goddess — it is a goddess V
o o
As if to intimidate, she approached me with a fierce and daring look ; and waving before her a small flag of tapa, appended to a light staff, sup- ported the claim by the declaration, " I am a goddess, a goddess indeed ! — the palapala and the pule (letters and religion) are not good : they will destroy the people!" Until then, I was passing" without intending* to take further notice
of her ; but, understanding this — in view of the respective causes thus brought forward by her — as a kind of challenge, I stopped ; and deliberat- ing fora moment what course to pursue, fixed my eyes fully on hers, and charged her with false- hood and wickedness, in her attempts to deceive the people by proclaiming herself a goddess, while conscious that she was an impostor, and that her pretensions to inspiration were a " meet punipuniwale no" — <f a thing of falsehood only" I spoke in a serious and positive tone, and my words had the effect designed. She could not meet the fixedness of my gaze ; her eyes wavered and dropt; and becoming greatly embarrassed, she endeavoured to turn the whole into a laugh ; but I continued my reproof, till she hurried silently away, followed by the hootings and ridicule of the whole throng.
CONVERSION TO CHRISTIANITY. 103
This individual was of small figure, and not of striking face, except in the brilliancy and power of a fine eye ; yet, in the fit of enthusiasm in which she at first appeared, there was an expression so unnatural, as to be fearful, even to the mind supe- rior to superstitious emotions ; and which irresist- ably reminded me of what I have imagined the looks of a demoniac to have been, in the times when such possessions were, for wise purposes, permitted.
A lively recollection of the impressions of this incident, connected with the disadvantage in person and feature in the case, compared with the indivi- dual now present, enabled me easily to conceive how fully this chief priestess, from the strength of expression and action of which her face and figure are evidently capable — under the excitement of a supposed inspiration by the goddess whose altar she served, while her
" eye, in a fine frenzy rolling, Should glance from heaven to earth, from earth to heaven," —
might infuse, into a credulous votary, impressions and fears, that would readily be attributed to the power and agency of a supernatural being.
It. was by exhibitions of this kind, and the effect produced by them on the populace, that the priests and priestesses, especially those of Pele, or the goddess of volcanoes, continued their sway over the belief and superstitious feelings of the people.
The priestess is now a firm believer in Christi- anity, and is one of the most attentive pupils of the station, at which, entirely for the benefit of instruc-
104 FORMER SACRIFICES TO PELJE.
tion, she has become permanently established. Her convictions of the folly and wickedness of her former vocation is such, that she is reluctant to converse much upon it. Her father was the here- ditary kahu, or steward, as she was the priestess, of Pele. The duty of the kahu was to provide the materials for the general sacrifices — the food and raiment of the suppositions deity: to grow the taro, potatoes, and sugar-cane, and the cloth- plant, from which the garments for her were made ; to provide the hogs and fowls, &c., and to have all things in readiness for the offerings, at the appointed seasons.
Of the plantations sacred to this use, one was on the sea- shore, and another within the precincts of the crater — in the broken ground, described as that upon which we first came, in descending from our hut, on our late visit. The kapu and his family resided, part of the time, on the coast ; and part, in the neighbourhood of the crater.
At the time of sacrifice, the priestess herself descended into the depths of the volcano, and, approaching the place most accessible and most active with fire, cast upon it the gifts, with the ex- clamation, "Here, Pele, is food for you' — spe- cifying the article or articles — " and here is cloth,''' mentioning its name and varieties. In answer to the question, whether she was not afraid of the fire which she approached ? she said no, for she then believed that the goddess would defend her from harm — but that now, when she knew that there was no such being as Pele, she should be
OBSERVANCE OF THE SABBATH. 105
afraid to go to places where she once did without apprehension, lest she might perish in her temerity.
Such, dear H , have been the rapid and
happy triumphs of Christianity, over the but lately deep-rooted heathenism of this country — and thus have the shades of superstition and error been dis- persed by the mild light of the gospel ! Even those who have grown old in the performance of the most favourite rites of idolatry, and who held unbounded influence and distinguished rank from their office, have discarded the whole system ; and, conscious of their ignorance and their guilt, are found meekly sitting at the feet of the High Priest of Salvation, to be instructed and redeemed by him!
The inhabitants of this section cf Hawaii, as I have before remarked, are among the most primi- tive and rude of the islanders ; still they are no longer a pagan population, but, from every obser- vation that our ship's company have been able to make, strictly and most conspicuously a Christian people. The description I have given of a sabbath here, will convey some idea of the manner in which that and other external observances of Christianity are regarded. To it I may add, what I then omitted, that not a canoe — unless it might have been some one or two bringing their proprie- tors to church — was seen upon the water, nor a single instance observed of labour or amusement. Forty of our crew had liberty on shore on the afternoon of that day ; and the report I overheard one and another of them giving to their fellows, F 3
106 HEATHENISM TOTALLY SUBVERTED.
was in itself sufficient to satisfy me of the utter change which had been accomplished in the whole character of the people. So punctilious were the inhabitants in their regard for the sabbath, that the seamen sought in vain to purchase anything whatever. Not even a water-melon or a banana could be obtained, except as a gift of hospitality. No rude crowd gathered round, as they sauntered from place to place. The men treated them with civility when they came to their houses ; but the women, universally, with such distance, by with- drawing from the places where they were, and by seeking security in the bosoms of their families, from any familiarity that might have been offered, that no one, so far as I can learn, has it in his power to report that he met with a single instance of licentiousness at Byron's Bay.
The force of this evidence of reformation will be best understood by those, who have known what the character of the intercourse of shipping with its inhabitants, as well as those of every other part of the Sandwich Islands, even within a few years, has been ; and, by such, it will be acknow- ledged as one, which the most sanguinfe believers in the success of the mission never expected to find, so early as the year 18*29.
Along the whole coast, no noisy drum of heathenish carousal, nor rude song of obscenity is now heard — but in their place, the hum of the crowded school, the voice of thanksgiving and prayer, and, not unfrequently, the chaunting of the morning and the evening hymn 1
DEPARTURE FROM BYRON'S BAY 107
LETTER XLIX.
FIRST INTERVIEW WITH THE MISSIONARIES AT OAHU.
Departure from Byron's Bay. — Aspect of Oahu. — Arrival and landing. — Improvements in Honolulu.— Meeting with the Missionaries.
U. S. Ship Vincennes, Roads of Honolulu, October 13, 1829.
YESTERDAY morning, at four o'clock,, we weighed anchor in Byron's Bay, and, after being gently fanned from the harbour by a land-breeze, took the trade- wind, and with all sail set, bore away for Oahu, some two hundred miles distant.
We made the eastern end of Maui sometime before dark ; while the higher parts of Mounakea were still distinctly in sight, and — from their loftiness and the rich deep blue of their shades — seemingly still near. Most of our gentlemen have felt disposed to question the estimate that has generally been made, of the loftiness of this moun- tain ; but, as we left it yesterday, the more distant we became from it, the more evident it was to all, that, whether 18,000 feet or not above the level of the sea, it must be, and is, immensely high.
Just now we are favoured with a beautiful moon ; and the officer of the mid- watch informed me this morning, that the view of the windward side of
108 ASPECT OF OAHU.
Maui was so distinct and fine, for two or three hours before daylight, that he thought seriously of calling me on deck to enjoy it. I went up at six o'clock. We were then far past the channel separating it from Morokai, and were rapidly ap- proaching that between this latter island and Oahu. At seven o'clock, when off the north end of Mo- rokai, we descried one of the headlands of Oahu in the neighbourhood of Diamond Hill, rising dimly, like a conical islet, from the water.
Our approach after this was very rapid ; and, in the course of a couple of hours, the whole of the eastern side came in view. As we drew in with the land, so as to distinguish the objects on shore, we were all greatly disappointed in its appearance — more so, no doubt, from having so recently left the luxuriance and verdure of Hido. Instead of the freshness and beauty of aspect exhibited, when first seen by us in 1823, it looked as if seared with fire ; and in place of green hills and rich vallies, every part, except the very tops of the mountains, was of a dead ash colour, and seemingly just swept by a siroc of the desert. The sight quite dispirited me — I had been told at Hido, that both at Maui and Oahu there had been the longest drought known for many years — but I was not prepared for such a general and deforming evidence of it.
We reached Diamond Point before noon ; and in passing it, as the groves and wide spreading plantations of Waititi, and the vallies and moun- tains behind them, came upon the eye — followed
ARRIVAL AND LANDING. 109
by the long plain of Honolulu — the port itself ad- joining— and the distant country beyond, to the range of mountains far in the west — the same marks of dearth were seen stamped on the whole coast ; and so different was the entire face of the country, in this respect, from every former ap- pearance, that I could scarce believe it ; the rich and beautiful Oahu, which all visitors have con- sidered the most pleasant and fertile, and been accustomed to call the garden of the islands of the »Toup.
We dropped anchor at twelve o'clock, in a range with three or four ships in the roads, just as Adams, the pilot, boarded us ; and were, at the same time, about announcing our arrival by a salute, when informed by him that the commander of the fort and all the chiefs were some miles in the country, and that it could not be answered immediately. It was, therefore, postponed, till arrangements on the subject should be made with the proper authorities.
As soon as a boat could be lowered, Lieutenant Dornin and myself were on our way to the shore — he to apprize the American consul of Captain Finch's arrival, and I to meet the embraces of our friends. We were two miles off ; and, before reaching the entrance of the harbour, saw a boat approaching, in which I recognized Mr. Jones, the consul. Mr. Dornin having a packet for him, we lay on our oars and spoke her. Mr. French, an American merchant, and Mr. Charlton, his Bri- tannic Majesty's consul, were also in the boat.
110 IMPROVEMENTS IN HONOLULU.
After an interchange of civilities,, and the delivery of the package, we resumed our course, and en- tered the harbour, filled with ships — whalers, mer- chantmen, &c., and the native craft — and exhibiting every appearance of a busy and thriving port. Several stone quays are now built, at different places, along that which was only a sand-beach when we left. We landed at one of these, oppo- site the American consulate ; and immediately directed our way towards the mission-house.
There are very considerable changes in the ap- pearance of the town near the water ; and very great improvements. The coral platform, along the walls of the fort and adjoining point, which on our arrival in 1823 was the court end of the metro- polis, is now converted to a more appropriate use — that of a dock-yard and kind of depot for naval stores. At least so I judged, from seeing one or two small vessels on the stocks there, and many others undergoing repairs — a large two- story store-house of stone, &c. &c. The neat wooden building erected at the same place by the regent Kaahumanu, and occupied, as you recollect, by Lord Byron during his visit, has been removed into the town, on the level ground, some distance from the water, near Mr. Jones, and fitted with green blinds, a flag-staff, and look-out, stands as conspicuous object, both from the water and on shore, as the " Blonde Hotel" owned by Go- vernor Boki. Besides this, there are many other well-built European-looking structures. Among them a store-house and office of Mr. Charlton,
MEETING WITH THE MISSIONARIES. Hi
near the water, at the corner of the fort next the town — and a very large and convenient establish- ment, consisting- of warehouse, shop, counting- room, and other apartments, belonging to Mr. French. Indeed, every appearance indicates an ad- vance in the importance and business of the place.
The arrival of ships seems nowr so much an every-day occurrence, as scarce to attract attention, except among the gentlemen in business ; and when we landed, the name and character of the Vincennes were not yet generally known on shore. No suspicion of my arrival was entertained by my former associates till we had nearly reached the mission-houses ; when we met the Rev. Mr. Clark and Dr. Judd, of the last reinforcement to the mission, and shortly after, Mr. Rugbies, with our friend Mr. Hunnewell, still engaged in mercantile pursuits at Honolulu.
My first call I felt due to Mr. and Mrs Bingham ; and therefore made my way to the door of the old wooden house, opening into the rooms they occupy. From Mrs. Bingham's exclamation, in an inner apartment, on hearing my voice, and Mr. Bingham's hurried entrance, I ascertained that we had taken them by entire surprise — which Mrs. Judd verified as she rushed into the room, from an adjoining part of the house. You, my dear
H , can better imagine what my feelings, and
what theirs were, for a time, than I describe them. There was a mingling of pain with the fulness of our joy, which perhaps all have expe- rienced in meeting those they love, after a long
112 MEETING WITH THE MISSIONARIES.
separation ; and for which Cowper well accounts , when he resolves it into a necessity, interwov< with our natures and our conditions, that n< earthly happiness shall be without its alloy. At the end of a half hour, and after partaking of some refreshment, Mr. Dornin returned to the vil- lage and on board ship, I having made arrange- ments for a boat towards evening.
It would be impossible to give even an outline of the topics of our conversation, they were so numerous, so varied, and so incongruous — em- bracing missionaries, chiefs, and people — friends in all parts of the world — scenes of joy and scenes of sorrow — events past, present, and to come; and calling into exercise ten hundred feelings of joy and sadness, of hope and apprehension, of thanksgiving and prayer ; and in such power, as to rouse to excitement many of the strongest affections of the heart.
After an hour or two spent in this manner, I pre- pared to return onboard ship. Mr. Bingham would have accompanied me to call on Captain Finch and my fellow- officers, but it was becoming late — the ship three miles distant — and the captain had sent to ask of him the favour of a translation into the Hawaiian language of the President's letter, and some remarks of his own in an address to the king, to be in readiness for an audience with the government, as soon as the necessary arrangements could be made. On my way to the town, I called on Mrs. Chamberlain and Mrs. Shepherd, who live in a couple of neat stone cottages, near the printing-
RECEPTION BY THE KING. 113
office, and on Mrs. Clark, Mrs. Ruggles, and Mrs. Green, at Mr. Ellis' s house. Mr. Green is at present on the N. W. coast of America, on an exploring visit among the natives there.
I saw none of the chiefs or people that I knew. The king was out riding — Governor and Madam Boki up the valley toward the Pari — and Kaahu- manu, the regent, at her country-house at Manoa. Expresses had been immediately sent, in the various directions, to inform them of the arrival of the Vincennes. The ex- queen, Namahana, died two or three weeks ago ; and Governor Adams, of Hawaii, and the Princess Harieta, and Governor Hoapiri, of Maui, only returned to their respective resi- dences, after attending her during her sickness, and at her funeral, a few days ago. I reached the ship just before dark , and thus have at once furnished you with an account of my first day at Oahu.
LETTER L.
RECEPTION OF CAPTAIN FINCH AND PARTY, BY THE KING AND REGENT.
Interchange of Salutes. — Walk to the King's residence.— Description of the Palace and its Furniture.— Dress of the King. — Presentation. — Address of Captain Finch.— Letter of the Secretary of the Navy. — Delivery of the Presents. — Personal appearance of the King.
U. S. Ship Vincennes, Port of Honolulu, October 15th, 1829.
AT daybreak yesterday we fired a gun for the pilot, and the boats of the shipping at present
114 INTERCHANGE OF SALUTES.
here : and were towed into the harbour, during the calm of the morning- ; and, before breakfast, safely moored in an open and pleasant birth.
At the request of the captain I went early on shore to learn from Mr. Jones, the arrangements made for the firing- of a salute, and the reception of himself and officers by the king and chiefs ; having- ascertained that the salute would be ex- pected and returned at twelve o'clock, and tl audience held directly after, I went to the mission- house to apprize Mr. Bingham of the necessity of his being prepared with the translations at that time ; and also to deliver an invitation from Captain Finch, to such of the missionaries as might have it in their power to attend, to be at the palace at the hour appointed for the levee. Mr. Jones had been requested to present the compli* ments of the captain, in like manner, to the resi- dents and visitors of respectability in port and to invite their presence on the occasion.
At twelve o'clock wre fired twenty-one guns, the established national salute here, and soon after- ward Captain Finch, attended by as large a num- ber of the officers as could be spared from neces- sary duty, left the ship. All were in full dress, and we pulled away, in a handsome procession of four boats, while the guns of the fort were still answering those of the Vincennes. The last of these had just been fired, as the captain's gig ap- proached the moorings of the Tamehameha, the king's finest vessel, which is kept in naval order, in the centre of the port, with a long pennant, banner, and jack flying. Much to our surprise she
THE KING'S ESTABLISHMENT. 115
commenced a salute in compliment to the captain's landing, which brought us to our " oars/' as the technical phrase is,, and obliged the Vincennes, as a matter of course, to return gun for gun, accord- ing to established etiquette, making in all eighty- four, whose bellowings had echoed far and wide, in little more than twenty minutes. Our landing, consequently, was attended at least with noise enough.
We disembarked in front of the consulate, where we were expected to take a glass of wine before Mr. Jones should conduct us to the palace. Here all the residents and visitors of respectability, includ- ing the British consul, and several other English gentlemen, were assembled ; and, after a general introduction, a few moments' conversation, and some refreshment, a messenger announced the rea- diness of his Majesty KAUIKEAOULI, or TAMEHA- MEHA III., to receive us : and we formed a pro- cession, led by the captain with the consuls on either side.
The king's establishment, but lately erected, is quite in the outskirts of the town, having the open plain towards Punchbowl Hill immediately in the rear. In going to it, we consequently passed through a principal part of the village. A noisy rabble, such as no part of the island but Honolulu would now present, lined our way on both sides nearly the whole distance ; large numbers of whom, running ahead through the dusty streets, in order to take an additional view after our whole num- ber had passed once by them, made no little an-
116 WALK TO THE
noyance, in addition to the heat of a noon-day sun, by the dirt they raised, notwithstanding- the attendance of police officers, here and there, keep them from pressing too closely upon us. limits to which they could accompany us, howev< were before long pointed out by a large whil gate, the entrance to the grounds of the royi residence, at the end of a street we were follow ing, beyond which none but our party were allow to pass.
On entering it we found ourselves in a spacioi yard of some acres, enclosed on all sides by a well constructed and high fence, and furnished with two other gates, similar to that through which we had passed — one, on another street, in the direction of the residences of most of the chiefs in the neigh- bourhood of the chapel and mission-houses, and the other inland towards the hill and valleys. Every thing within appeared exceedingly neat. On the side of the square at which we entered, and near the gate, there are three or four good-sized houses, but not differing externally from most of the better kind of native dwellings. These, we were informed, are the dining and sleeping-rooms, offices, &c. of the king and his household. At a considerable distance, on the opposite side, stands the palace, a fine lofty building of thatch, some hundred or more feet in length, fifty or sixty broad, and forty or more high, beautifully finished, and ornamented at the corners, from the ground to the peak, and along the ridge of the roof, with a rich edging of fern leaves ; the dark brown of which,
KING'S RESIDENCE. 117
in their dried state, contrasts prettily with the lighter colour and smoothness of the general co- vering. It is enclosed by a handsome and substan- tial palisade fence,, with two gates, one large in front, and a smaller at the side, and a pebbled area within.
As we entered the square, the royal guard were seen under arms, beside the palace, at the gate we were to pass, in double file of a hundred men each, the whole being in a complete uniform of white, with cuffs and collars of scarlet, and black caps. The captain, our old friend Kahuhu, was at their head, in a handsome dress of scarlet, with gold lacings, and expensive sword. As Captain Finch passed, they presented arms, in a style perfectly en m'ditaire ; and at the same time Kekuanoa, now styled the General, from being at the head of the military forces of the king, appeared at the gate in the full and rich suit of a major-general ; and with the gracefulness and polish of a gentleman received the captain from the consuls, and ushered him through a folding-door of glass, into the interior.
Mr. Jones had said to me that the king's house was a very beautiful building, the most so of any that had ever been erected at the islands ; but scarce any thing that could have been told of it, as a structure in the native style, would have pre- pared me for the coup- d* ceil, as we passed the threshold.
The wrhole is one apartment, spacious, light, lofty, and truly elegan. All the timbers in sight.
118 DESCRIPTION OF THE
the numerous posts, rafters, and centre pillars, of a fine substantial size, and of a dark hard wo< hewn with the nicest regularity. The lashings ol sinnit, made of the fibres of the cocoanut bleached white, are put on with such neatness, and wrought into so beautiful a pattern, at close and regular intervals, as to give to the posts and rafters the appearance of being divided into natural sections by them ; and to produce, by the whiteness and nice workmanship of the braid, in contrast with the colours of the wood, an effect striking and highly ornamental.
But that which most attracted my admiration in the building, is an improvement, a device of native ingenuity, of which I was told wre then saw the first specimen, and which gives to the interior a finish as beautiful as appropriate to such an edifice ; it is a lining between the timbers and the thatch, screen- ing entirely from sight the grass of which the ex- ternal covering is composed ; and which always gave an air of rudeness, and a barn-yard look, even to the handsomest and best finished of their former establishments. The manufacture is from a small, round mountain vine, of a rich chestnut colour, tied horizontally, stem upon stem, as closely as pos- sible, in the manner, and probably in imitation of the painted window-blinds of split bamboo, brought from the East-Indies, once much in fashion, and still occasionally seen in the United States.
The whole of the inside, from the floor to the peak of the roof — a height of at least forty feet — is covered with this, seemingly in one piece ; im-
PALACE AND ITS FURNITURE. 119
parting", by the beauty of its colour and entire effect, an air of richness to the room, not dissimilar to that of the tapestry and arras hanging's of more polished audience chambers.
The floor also is a novelty, and an experiment here : consisting, in place of the ground strewn with rushes or grass, as a foundation for the mats, as was formerly the case, of a pavement of stone and mortar, spread with a cement of lime, having all the smoothness and hardness of marble. Upon this, beautifully variegated mats of Tauai were spread, forming a carpet as delightful and appro- priate to the climate, as could have been selected, Large windows on either side, and the folding doors of glass at each end, are hung with draperies of crimson damask ; besides which, and the mats on the floors, the furniture consists of handsome pier tables, and large mirrors ; of a line of glass chandeliers suspended through the centre, with lustres and candelabra of bronze, ornamented or- molu, affixed to the pillars lining the sides and ends of the apartment ; and of portraits in oil of the late king and queen, taken in London, placed at the upper end, in carved frames richly gilt.
Such, dear H— , is the reception room of his Majesty of Hawaii, in 1829. Contrasted with the one, into which you were received, in 1823 — in these days considered highly respectable and ele- gant— and with that in which Lord Byron and suite were ushered, in 1825, the difference is equal, almost, to the improvements that would take place in a century, in the abodes of royalty in most other
120 DRESS OF THE KING.
countries ; and greater than that which now exists between the new and the old rooms in Wind- sor Castle. I do not fear being thought extrava- gant in saying, that this palace of KAUIKEAOULI would, even in the Royal Park, form a rustic pavilion, in which his Majesty of England might occasionally lounge, not only with comfort, but with delight.
But as there are no ante-rooms, I am keeping you a long time in the presence, without an ap- proach to the throne. In the middle of the room, about sixty feet in front, or two-thirds the length of the apartment, the young monarch was seated in an arm-chair, spread with a splendid cloak of yellow feathers. His dress wras the Windsor uni- form of the first rank, with epaulettes of gold — the present of George IV. — and an under-dress of white, with silk stockings and pumps. On a sofa, immediately on his right, were Kaahumanu, the regent, and the two ex- queens, Kinau — at present the wife of General Kekuanaoa — and Kekauruohe. Being in mourning, they were in well-made and becoming dresses of black, with ruffs, and caps of white, trimmed with love-ribbon. Governor and Madame Boki had not arrived from the country ; and the only other chiefs in the room were those of inferior rank, holding different offices in the establishment of the king, and who, in militai dresses, stood in household style, at intervals some yards against the walls.
A range of chairs swept off on either side froi the king and chiefs, in a circle towards the entrance.
PRESENTATION. 121
for the accommodation of our party ; and at the foot of the row on the left hand were Mr. Bing- ham, Mr. and Mrs. Ruggles, Mr. and Mrs. Cham- berlain, Dr. and Mrs. Judd, Mrs. Green, Miss Ward, Mr. Clark, and Mr. Shepherd, of the Mission.
The introduction, by Mr. Jones, took place in the order of rank. I did not need the civility ; and only regretted, that a first meeting with those in whom I feel so deep an interest, should be on a formal and public occasion. Our greetings, how- ever, were most cordial, as I passed them in my order in the train ; and were renewed again and again, on their part, as soon as the courtesy due to my companions as strangers, allowed them to direct their attention to me. This ceremony with the chieftains over, the captain and officers crossed the room to the missionaries, to interchange saluta- tions with them, when we became seated for busi- ness ; the captain on the left of the king, the con- suls next, with the gentlemen of the Vincennes and mission family on one side, and the merchants, visitors, residents, &c., to the number of thirty or forty, on the other.
Captain Finch, having chosen to avail himself of Mr. Bingham's services, as interpreter, requested him to take a seat at his side ; and then rising, read to the king, in a distinct and impressive man- ner, the following address.
King Tamehameha,
The president of the United States has con- fided to my care a written communication for your- VOL. n. G
122 ADDRESS OF
self, and such counsellors as you rely upon ; accoi panying it with various presents for each ; in t( timony of the good opinion he entertains of yoi individually, and to evince his desire for amity ai confidence in all intercourse that may subsist between your people and my countrymen.
That the genuineness of the letter may not be questioned, which might have been the case if the transmission had been intrusted to casual convey- ance, and to make it the more honourable to your- self, he has dispatched a ship of war for this and other purposes: and it is enjoined upon me as the commander, to deliver it in person into your keep- ing; to reiterate the expressions of good- will which it contains ; and to exhibit by my own de- portment, the sincerity of the motives which have actuated him.
The friendly and kind reception afforded by your government to one other of our national ships, the Peacock, has been most favourably represented by her commander, and doubtless has conduced greatly to the visit which I now make.
The improved state of your people has also been so interestingly described by one of your friends, the Rev. Mr. Stewart, now beside me, as to awaken among my countrymen at large, great benevolence of feeling towards you ; and it will be my study, and I trust I shall be warranted on my return among them, to strengthen their prepossessions in your favour, and to confirm the accounts of the good traits of character of our new acquaintances, the islanders, subject to your authority.
CAPTAIN FINCH. 123
With your leave I will now acquit myself of the pleasing duty devolving upon me, by reading and handing the document adverted to ; which illus- trates the light in which the president wishes to hold your nation ; and upon which you will, I hope, ponder often, deliberately, and fully.
The presents I also ask permission to distribute amongst those of your faithful friends for whom they are intended ; trusting that they will tend to the enlargement of knowledge, invite to social and rational enjoyments; and further secure enduring recollections of the assurances which I give of the disinterested friendship of the president and go- vernment of the United States.
W. C. B. FINCH.
October 14th, 1829.
Mr. Bingham having read a translation of this in the Hawaiian tongue, Captain Finch proceeded in the perusal of the document from the government
To TAMEHAMEHA III.,
KING OF THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
Navy Department of the United States of America, City of Washington, 20th January, A.D. 1829.
By the approbation and direction of the president of the United States, I address you this letter, and send it by the hands of Captain William Compton Bolton Finch, an officer in our navy, commanding the ship of war Vincennes.
Captain Finch also bears to you, from the presi- dent, certain small tokens of regard, for yourself and the chiefs who are near to you, and is com-
124 LETTER OF THE
manded to express to you, in his name., the anxioi desire which he feels for your prosperity and a( vancement in the arts of civilized life, and for tl cultivation of harmony and good-will between yoi nation and the people of the United States. H( has heard, with interest and admiration, of the pid progress which has been made by your peopl< in acquiring a knowledge of letters and of the True Religion — the Religion of the Christian's Bible. These are the best, and the only means by which the prosperity and happiness of nations can be ad- vanced and continued ; and the president, and all men _every where who wish W7ell to yourself and your people, earnestly hope that you will continue to cultivate them, and to protect and encourage those by whom they are brought to you.
The president also anxiously hopes that peace, and kindness, and justice, will prevail between your people and those citizens of the United States who visit your islands ; and that the regulations of your government will be such as to enforce them upon all.
Our citizens who violate your laws, or interfere with your regulations, violate at the same time their duty to their own government and country, and merit censure and punishment. We have heard with pain that this has sometimes been the case ; and we have sought to know and to punish those who are guilty. Captain Finch is commanded di- ligently to inquire into the conduct of our citizens whom he may find at the islands ; and, as far as he has the authority, to ensure proper conduct and deportment from them.
SECRETARY OF THE NAVY. 125
The president hopes, however, that there are very few who so act as to deserve censure or pu- nishment ; and, for all others, he solicits the kind- ness and protection of your government, that their interests may be promoted, and every facility given to them in the transaction of their business. Among others, he bespeaks your favour to those who have taken up their residence with you, to promote the cause of religion and learning in your islands. He does not doubt that their motives are pure, and their objects most friendly to the happiness of your people ; and that they will so conduct themselves as to merit the protecting kindness of your go- vernment.
One of their number, the Rev. C. S. Stewart, who resided for some time with you, has received the favour of his government in an appointment to an office of religion in our navy, and will visit you in company with Captain Finch.
The president salutes you with respect, and wishes you peace, happiness, and prosperity.
[L. s.] SAM. L. SOUTHARD.
Secretary of the Navy.
This also was immediately made intelligible to the king and chiefs, by a translation in the native language, read by Mr. Bingham.
Both documents were listened to with intense in- terest. I never before saw Kaahumanu more ex- cited. She seemed scarce able to command her feel- ings ; and before Mr. Southard's letter was finished, her eyes were filled with tears. " Maitai — maitai
126 DELIVERY OF THE PRESENTS.
no/" " good — good indeed!" uttered with the quick tone in which he usually speaks when pleased, was the hasty comment of the king1 ; while the females, with bright faces, re-echoed the appro- bation, Cf maitaino — maitai no /"
Both papers were then placed by the captain in the hands of the king1, who received them with more formal expression of his satisfaction by say- ing, that himself and chiefs were highly favoui by such a communication ; and acknowledged his obligations to Captain Finch as the bearer of it, am for the kind sentiments with which it had been de- livered. The servants having charge of the presents were now called, and these placed before the king. A pair of globes, celestial and terrestrial, and large map of the United States, for himself : a sil- ver vase, inscribed with the arms of the United States, and her name, for the regent : two silver goblets, with inscriptions