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Sir Richard Tempi.e
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ALESTINE
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LLUSTRATED.
BY
SIR RICHARD TEMPLE,
" Thou hast heen a refuge from the storm, and a shadow from the heat."
LONDON: W. H. ALLEN & CO., 13 WAi'ERLOO PLACE, PALL MALL.
s.w.
1888.
{All Rii/lits Beserved )
LONDON. PRINTED BY W. U ALLEN AND CO., 13 WATERLOO PLACE, PALL MALL.
While we praise the Lord for all the wonders of His power, tvisdom and love, displayed in a system which is to wax old and perish, loe may therein contemplate, as in a glass, those new heavens and that new earth of whose duration there shall be no end.
Read Nature; Nature is a friend to truth. Nature is Christian, preaches to mankind. And bids dead matter aid ms in our creed.
The sun, that fountain of life and heart of the world, the moon shining unth a lustre borrowed from his beams, the stars glittering by night in the clear firmament, the air giving health to all things that live and move, the rain and the dew descending from above, the how which compasseth the heavens about with a circle of glory, the voice of thunder and the piercing power of lightning — all these are ready to instruct us in the mysteries of faith.
They speak their Maker as they can. But want and ask the tongue of man.
(Bishop Horne, 1771.)
20P3101
PHEI^ ACE
I DESIRE to state at the outset what is, and what is not, to be expected from this book. My main purpose is to present a reproduction of thirty-two studies made by me in oil - colours of very important scenes in the Holy Land. These illustrate the record of my journey to many of the most sacred places in the world.
The description is arranged according to the route taken in my journey. The geographical order of the places is in this wise : — Joppa — Ajalon — Jerusalem — Bethlehem — Jordan — Jericho — Bethel — Shiloh — Shechem — Samaria — Dothan -- Esdraelon — Jezreel — Tabor — Nazareth — Cana — Gennesareth — Tiberias.
It will be seen, then, that the descriptive survey com- prises a part only of the Holy Land, though the most
vi PREFACE.
important part. It does not include the southern division of Hebron and Gaza, nor the northern division of CiBsarea Philippi and Merom, nor the coast of Tyre and Sidon. It does not extend to the region east of the Jordan.
The record includes a general account of my journey, and fully explains the coloured sketches which I took on the spot. The affording of such explanation is indeed the primary object. But, in order that the explanation may be complete for each illustration, a resume is given of the Scriptural events relating to the scene which is depicted. The narrative, then, is so arranged as to set forth the subjects which are pictorially represented.
Thus the purpose of the work is strictly limited to the representation of many important scenes as they appear at this time, and to the exposition of the sacred topography or history relating to them. I do not undertake to do any more than this in a matter which has been, and is being, investigated by the most recent authorities. But even this will be found hard of accomplishment. No pains have been spared to verify the authorities, and to embody the results of the latest researches so far as they concern the particular points which I adduce.
I duly remember that Picturesque Palestine has of
PREFACE. vii
late been most ably and fully delineated by wood - cuts and steel engravings. But these illustrations do not, of course, go beyond the exhibition of form with light and shade. Now my illustrations attempt something more, or something different, in that they display colouring. Such a task has not usually been undertaken by previous illustrators, and has something of novelty in it.
Some passages in Ruskin's writings are so specially ap- plicable to colouring in sacred scenery that I will cite them here : —
" Of all God's gifts to the sight of man, colour is the holiest, the most divine, the most solemn. We speak I'ashly of gay colour and sad colour, for colour cannot at once be good and gay. All good colour is in some degree pensive, the loveliest is melancholy. . . . God has employed colour in His creation as the unvarying accompaniment of all that is purest, most innocent, most precious ; while, for things pre- cious only in material uses, or dangerous, common colours are reserved. ... I know no law more severely without exception than this of the connection of pure colour with profound and noble thought. . . . The ascertainment of the sanctity of colour is not left to human sagacity. . . . The sacred chord of colour, blue, purple, and scarlet, with
viii PREFACE.
white and gold, as appointed in the Tabernacle, this chord is the fixed base of all colouring with the workmen of every great age. ... A faithful study of colour will always give power over form, though the most intense study of form will give no power over colour."
R. T.
The Nash, Kempsey,
NEAB Worcester.
IX
LIST OF COLOURED ILLUSTRATIONS.
|
I. |
Gana of Galilee |
Frontisp |
iece |
|
|
II. |
Joppa, or Jaffa |
To face |
page |
14 |
|
III. |
Ajalon, hy moonlight |
>) |
22 |
|
|
IV. |
Church of the Holy Sepulchre |
>) |
34 |
|
|
V. |
Jerusalem at sunset |
>j |
46 |
|
|
VI. |
Oethsemane . . . . |
)> |
54 |
|
|
VII. |
Bethany . . . . |
>) |
60 |
|
|
VIII. |
Jerusalem from Olivet |
») |
62 |
|
|
IX. |
Temple Corner |
») |
66 |
|
|
X. |
Hinnom |
>> |
68 |
|
|
XI. |
Mount Zion . |
M |
72 |
|
|
XII. |
Bethlehem |
)5 |
80 |
|
|
XIII. |
The Dead Sea |
)> |
86 |
|
|
XIV. |
The Jordan . |
)> |
98 |
|
|
XV. |
Mount Quarantania from Jericho |
)) |
110 |
|
|
XVI. |
Valley of Jericho |
»> |
114 |
|
|
XVII. |
Bethel |
• J) |
132 |
|
|
XVIII. |
Mizpeh |
?> |
144 |
|
|
XIX. |
Shiloh |
J> |
154 |
|
|
XX. |
Gerizim and Shechem. |
>J |
162 |
|
|
XXI. |
Jacob's Well |
J) |
170 |
|
|
XXII. |
Samaria |
)) |
180 |
|
|
XXIII. |
Dothan and Carmel |
)> |
190 |
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
|
XXIV. |
Plain of Esdraelon . |
To face |
page |
200 |
|
|
XXV. |
Jezreel . . • • |
206 |
|||
|
XXVI. |
Mount Tabor |
212 |
|||
|
XXVII. |
Nazareth |
224 |
|||
|
XXVIII. |
QaliltBan Uplands and Garmel |
280 |
|||
|
XXIX. |
Safed, the City set on a Hill |
23d |
|||
|
XXX. |
Hattin, or Mount of Beatitudes |
240 |
|||
|
XXXI. |
Buins of Tiberias |
252 |
|||
|
XXXII. |
Storm on the Lake of Oennesareth |
258 |
LITHOGRAPHS.
I. Valley of Jehoshaphat II. Defile of Lo2ver Kedron
To face page 278 280
MAPS
I. Modern Palestine, showing route of
journey . . .To face page 13
II. Shetch Map of Jerusalem and Neigh- bourhood . . . »> 29
III. Sketch Map, Central Ridge of
Palestine . . • >> 117
IV. Sketch Map of Galilee and Plain of
Esdraelon
217
XI
LIST OF AUTHORITIES.
Anderson. '• Palebtine Exploration."
Barclay. " Report on Sliechem."
Burckhardt's Traoels.
Clarke. "Travels in Palestine and Syria." 1801.
Gonder. " Handbook to the Bible."
" Tent-work in Palestine."
"Judas Maccabaeus."
Fuller "Holy Warre."
" Pisgah View of Palestine." 16-50.
Etlyot (Abbe). 1714.
Josephus. " Wars of the Jews." " Antiquities of ♦he Jews."
" Apion."
" Life."
Judith (Book of).
Maccabees. Books I. and II.
MaundreW s " Journey in Palestine."
Michaud. " Histoire des Croisades." 1841.
Mills. " History of the Crusades."
Palestine Exploration Society. " Twenty-one Years' VN'ork."
1886. Fvrter. " Mui'ray's Handbook to Palestine." 1876.
" History of the Knights Templar."
xii LIST OF AUTHORITIES.
Stanley (Dean). " Sinai aud Palestine."
" History of the Jewish Church."
Robinson. "Biblical Researches." 1841. Survey of Western Palestine. 1887. Thompson. "The Land and the Book." Tristram. "Land of Israel."
"Bible Places." 1886.
Vertot (Abbe). 1819.
Warren. " Underground Jerusalem."
" Temple or Tomb."
Wilhen. " Geschichte der Kreuzziige." 1829.
William of Tyre (Archbishop).
Wilson. " Lands of the Bible." 1847.
XIU
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
TRAVEL IN PALESTINE.
Best season for travelling in Palestine. — The climate. — The spring. — The winter time. — Climate and atmosphere in February and early March. — Stormy weather. — Atmospheric effects. — Disadvantages and advantages also. — Life in tents. — Shelter in monasteries. — Rides on horseback. — Servants and equipage. — Journey from London to Jeru- salem. — Comparative scales of expense of touring in Palestine. — The Palestine Exploration Fund F- ^
CHAPTER II.
SHARON AND PEILISTU.
Landing at Joppa. — Sacred history of the place. — Orange groves. — Plains of Sharon and Philistia. — Carriage road. — Halt at Ramleh. — Lydia, Modiu and Bethorou. — Valley of Ajalon. — Moonlight view.— Mountains of Judaea. — Nicopolis-Emmaus. — Kirjath-Jearim. — Suburbs of Jerusalem. — Identification of Scriptural sites . . . ^. 13
xiv CONTENTS.
CHAPTER III.
JERUSALEM.
The Four Quarters of Jerusalem — Ziou, Akra, Moriah, Bezetha. — View from height near Jaffa Gate. — City Bazaars. — Debris of the ancient city. — The mosque of Omar. — Subterranean reservoirs of Moriah. — Wailing-place of the Jews. — The Temple enclosure. — Zion. — The Church Missionary Society. — Via Dolorosa. — Church of the Holy Sepulchre. — Structures of the Knights of St. John. — English Mission to the Jews. — Ophthalmic Hospice. — Sunset view of Jerusalem p. 29
CHAPTER IV.
THE NEIGHBOUEHOOD OF JERUSALEM.
The Jaffa and Damascus Gates. — Possible site of Calvary. — Ancient tombs. — Mount Scopus and camp of Titus. — The brook Kedron. — The Garden of Gethsemane. — The tomb of the Virgin Mary. — View from Mount of Olives. — The village of Bethany. — Place where Our Lord wept over Jerusalem. — Corner of the Temple enclosure. — Ophel and Siloam. — The glen of Hinnom. — Hill of Evil Counsel. — View of Mount Zion. — Its characteristics. — Circuit of Jerusalem . j). 49
CHAPTER V.
BETHLEHEM.
Road to Bethlehem. — Rachel's tomb. — Town of Bethlehem. — Basilica of Constantine. — Cave of the Nativity. — Chamber of St. Jerome. — Missionary establishments. — Solomon's Pools. — Fields of Ruth and Boaz. — The Frank mountain. — View of Bethlehem on the height p. 74:
CONTENTS. XV
CHAPTER VI.
THE DEAD SEA.
Wilderness of Judaa. — Monastery of Mar Saba. — Lovely view of the Dead Sea. — Abraham and the Cities of the Plain. — Bedouin escort. — Descent to the Salt Lake. — En-gedi. — Water of the Lake. — Peculiar foreground. — View towards the desert. — Traces of earthquakes and igneous agencies. — Antique associations. — Chedorlaomer and Abra- ham . . . . . . . . . . . . p. 81
CHAPTER Vn.
THE JORDAN AND JERICHO.
First view of the Jordan stream and banks.— Halting-place at the broad pool. — Bathing-place of the pilgrims. — Crossing of the Israelites under Joshua. — Formation of their national character. — Approach to Jericho. — Site of the later city. — Crimes of Herod the Great — His last days. — Site of the elder Jericho. — Channels of irrigation. — Derived from the famous Fountains. — Past and present cultivation. Mount Quarantania. — Traditional scene of the Temptation. — Ascent of the mountain. — General view of the Jericho landscape . . 7). 96
CHAPTER Vm.
THE CENTRAL RIDGE OP PALESTINE.
Extent of the Central Ridge. — Its physical character — Its ravines and passes. — Its rock formations. — Its vegetation. — Loss of its forests. — Its animals, wild and tame. — Its landscape. — Its inhabitants. — Their primaeval descent. — The preservation of their manners and customs without change. — Their social condition. —Their religion. — Their aspect and demeanour. — State of the country . . • P- 116
XVI
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER IX.
BETHEL.
Tei-ritorv of Benjamin. — The Rock Rimmon. — Michmash. — Ai of Joshua. — First sight of Bethel. — Patriarchal encampment.
Present village on Bethel site. — My camp there and
arrangements for march. — Views near Bethel. — Ophrah. — Last glimpse of Jerusalem. — Gibeon. — Joshua's victory over the Allied Tribes. — Mount Mizpeh.— The Prophet Samuel. — Gibeah and Geba. — Isaiah's description. — Valley of Bethoron. — Victories of Judas Maccabasus.— His death.— The Kingdom under Saul . . p. 128
CHAPTER X.
SHILOH.
Heritage of Ephraim.— Its richness.— Road to Shiloh.— Set forth in Scripture. — Plateau of Shiloh.— Its desolation. — Site of the Taber- nacle.—Samuel. — Loss of the Ark in battle.— Death of Eli. — Subsequent history of the place. — Thp village of Lebonah. — March towards Samaria . p. 148
CHAPTER XI.
SHECHEM.
Distant prospect of Shechem, Gerizim, and Ebal.— First sight of snow- clad Hermon. — Antique history of Shechem. — The Patriarch Jacob. — Joshua's assembly.— Jotham's parable. — Meeting of Rehoboam and the Israelites. — Subsequent events. — Tirzah and Shalem. — Descent to the valley.— .^nou and John's baptism. — Narrow valley between Ebal and Gerizim. — Joshua's last exhortation. — Jacob's Well. — Revelation of the Messiah to the woman of Samaria. — Evidence for identifying the spot.— Sychar village and Joseph's tomb. — The men of Ephraim — Town of Neapolis, now Nabulus. — Its cascades. — Summit of Gerizim p. 155
CONTENTS. xvii
CHAPTER XII.
SAMARIA.
Road to Samaria. — Its establishment as capital of the Kingdom of Israel. — Ahab's blood-stained chariot. — Siege by the Syrians — Victorious expedition to Damascus. — Siege by the Assyrians. — Gallant defence of Samaria. — Its capture. — Herod builds Sebaste. — Christian struc- tures.— Present aspect of the place. — Approach to the modern town or village. — Scriptural scene at the gate. — Interior of the village. — St. Peter and St. Philip. — Herod's colonnade. — Death of Mariamne. — Execution of her sons. — Origin of the Samaritans. — Boundary of Manasseh. — The vale of Dothan. — Joseph's In-ethreu. — First sight of Carmel . . . . . . . . ^j. 175
CHAPTEE XIII.
PLAIN OF ESDRAELON.
General view of Esdraelon plain.— The hills of Nazareth.— Tabor and Little Hermon.— Hill of Gilboa. — Physical geography of the plain.— The Book of Judith. — Levels of sea, plain and Jordan valley.— Canal project. — Historical summary. — Heritage of Issachar. — Camp at Janiu or En-gaunim.— Village of Jezreel.— Gideon's victory over the Midianites — Joram and Jehu.— Naboth's vineyard. — Jezebel's fate. — Site of Megiddo.— Death of King Josiah.— View of Mount Tabor.— Deborah, Barak, and Sisera.— Battle of the Kishon.— Elijah and Elisha.— The prophetic office.— Memories of Esdraelon . . p. 192
xviii CONTENTS.
CHAPTER XIV.
NAZARETH.
Ascent from the Plain to Nazareth. — Traditional mount of Precipitation. — Situation of Nazareth. — Greek monastery. — Latin monastery. — My stay there. — Society for promoting Female Education in the East. — The Church Missionary Society. — Scene at the fountain. — Aspect of the people. — View of the town. — The Edinburgh Medical Mission. — Heights over the town. — View from there. — Promontory of Carmel. — German colony at Haifa. — Advantages of Nazareth for European residence . . . p. 217
CHAPTER XV.
GALILEE.
Ancient area of Galilee. — Upper and Lower divisions. — Heritage of Zebulon and Naphtali. — Historic hill of Kuriin-Hattin. — Plain of Butauf. — View of Safed at sunset. — History of the place. — Snowy Hermon in the distance. — Eoad towards Tiberias. — Cana of Galilee. — Scene at the fountain. — Topography of the Galilsean plateau. — Atmosphere portending storm. — Village of Lubieh. — Near view of Kurun-Hattin. — Possibly Mount of Beatitudes. . . p. 231
CHAPTER XVI.
THE LAKE OF GENNESARETH.
First view of Lake of Gennesareth. — State of the atmosphere. — Descent from the ridge to Tiberias. — Present state of the town. — The Jews dwelling there. — The boat on the Lake. — Plain of Gennesareth. — Description by Josephus. — Sites of Capernaum, Chorazin, and Bethsaida. — Desolate
CONTENTS!. xix
shore. — Sacred associations. — Horod the Tii'tvarch and Tiberias. — Ruins on margin of Lake. — Sulphur baths. — Sunset scene. — Storm at night, — Eefuge in monastery. — View in the morning. — Lake after stonn. — Mountains on the eastern shore. — Apbek and G-adara. — Siege of Gamala. — Departure from Tiberias. — Heavy weather on Galilseau plateaux. — Sefurieb, the ancient Sepphoris. — Its history . . p. 242
CHAPTER XVII.
THE CRUSADES.
A[)proach of the Crusaders to Acre. — Fearful diminution of their numbers. — Their advance to Jerusalem. — Their rendezvous near Lydda. — Their first view of the Holy City. — Siege and capture. — Scene at the Holy Sepulchre. — Hospital of St. John. — Frere Gerard. — The Knights Templar. — Godfrey de Bouillon elected Chief. — After bis death Baldwin crowned King at Bethlehem. — Kingdom lasts till 1187 a.d. — Advance of Saladin from Damascus. — Christian forces assembled at Sefurieh or Sepphoris. — They move to Hattin Plateau. — They give battle there and are disastrously beaten. — Subjugation of Palestine liy the Saracens ......... p. 264
CHAPTER XVIII.
MISSIONARY HOPE.
Ezekiel's vision at Chebar. — Fountain flowing from Moriah. — Rising of waters in Kedron valley. — River with verdant banks. — Flood flowing into Dead Sea. — Its vivifying effect. — Its multitude of fishes and fishers. — The trees whose leaf never fades and whose fruit fails not
XX CONTENTS.
— Religious analogy. — Establishment of Cliristiauity among civilized nations. — Its difEusiou among the heathen. — Fountain of Moriah the spring of life. — Rising river, the extension of Missions. — Dead Sea vivified.— Heathendom accepting the True Religion. — Multitude of fishes, representing the converts. — The fishers are the Mis- sionaries . . . . . . . ... . • !'• ^'^7
PALESTINE ILLUSTRATED.
CHAPTER I.
T E A V E T, IN PALESTINE.
Best season for travelling in Palestine. — The climate. — The spring. — The winter time. — Climate and atmosphere in February and early March. — Stormy weather. — Atmospheric effects. — Disadvantages and advantages also. — Life in tents. — Shelter in monasteries. — Rides on horseback. — Servants and equipage. — Journey from London to Jeru- salem.— Comparative scales of expense of touring in Palestine. — The Palestine Exploration Fund.
The following pages constitute the record of a journey in Palestine
during the months of February and March 1883. It is necessary
to state the time of year because the incidents and results of such
a journey depend largely on the season.
In most countries the selection of the season for travelling
demands forethought. In no country is such precaution more
1
TRAVEL IN PALESTINE. [chap. i.
needful than in Palestine. The climate in the mountainous regions of the Holy Land must originally have been cool and salubrious. The coast region, though much hotter, was swept by the health- giving breezes from the Mediterranean. The Jordan valley was the only region having a tropical heat. But the ruin that has set in for many centuries, the obstruction of natural drainage, the loss of vegetation, and accumulation of rubbish, have grievously affected the healthiness of the land which was promised as an inheritance to Israel. The traveller, then, must beware of the hot drought in the summer and autumn, that is from June to October. Some travellers who from experience know how to take every care for their own safety may venture here, even in the hottest time, as indeed they might venture any- where. But the ordinary traveller would run a grave risk of fever or sun-stroke.
The best and usual time for travelling in Palestine is from the latter half of March to the beginning of May. The traveller will then expect sunshine and pleasant weather, dry ground and unimpeded transit, spring verdure and blooming wild -flowers. Most of these good things he will indeed find at that auspicious time, though in the weather he may be disappointed even then. But such advantages do not accrue in February and the first half of March. They may for a
CHAP. I.J SEASON Foil rUAVFAAANC.
brief while present themselves, but iu that case they will be abnormal and unseasonable. And although they might be enjoyable to the traveller for the moment, he would, if a thoughtful man, regard them with foreboding, for they would portend drought, failure of crops, and ultimate scarcity. In other words, during the latter winter and the early spring there ought to be heavy weather, rain-storms, vapour-masses obscuring the sky, falls of snow in the mountains and the loftier plateaux ; bridle-paths turned into temporary torrents, lowlands becoming bogs, ploughed fields difficult to be crossed. Otherwise there will be no subsoil moisture for the spring crops, no supplies for the fountains and streams, no pasturage for the animals. The traveller, then, who chooses, or is obliged, to travel at that particular time must face the weather. He wiU have to endure some hai'dship, he will miss seemg many beauties that are seen by those who travel at more favourable times. But he will be rewarded by the sight of much srrandeur that would not be visible under other circumstances.
In February and March of 1883, the season was of the ordinary character. It was stormy and wild, cloudy with outbreaks of splendour, rainy in the lowlands and snowy in the mountains. It had [genial and delightful intervals between the storms. It was marked by rapid changes from cold to
TRAVEL IN PALESTINE. [chap. i.
heat. It abounded in occasions when the glory beheld would more than make up for toil and trouble. In the coming narrative, then, the reader will hardly look for the common characteristics of an Eastern journey — the glare, the heat, the dust, the baked earth, the cloudless sky. Heat, indeed, wiU be but rarely felt. The riding-dress will not be thin and light as in hot climates. On the contrary, water-proof protec- tion from head to foot will oiten be needed. To the inhabitant of British latitudes, inured to a changeful climate, the comparative regularity of season in the East is welcome, when some forecast of tine and dry days can be made, and when the weather can be depended on. But that advantage is lacking on the journey now to be described. Tents are pitched, perhaps, only to be torn from their fastenings at the dead of night by the blast. Baggage mules and donkeys have sometimes to be extracted from the loam or clay of the ploughed field in which they are almost imbedded, or have to be actually dragged across a turbid and impetuous brook. I narrowly escaped detention at Jerusalem ti'om a fall of snow two feet deep, and the hills round about Jerusalem are thus whitened in most winters, though not in every winter. All this may surprise those who regard Palestine as " Eothen." They may naturally ask whether it is wise to travel in the interior of
CHAP. 1.] MARCHING EXPERIENCE. 6
Palestine during the winter season. The answer would de- pend on the strength, aptitude, and experience of the traveller. If he be at all an invalid, the imprudence is manifest, and in that region nature has sometimes exacted a severe penalty for such rashness. But if he be physically able to bear the discomfort mthout harm, if his spirits be cheerful and buoyant, if the hope within him of seeing wonders can enliven tedium and distress, then he would do well to try his fortune. He may indeed be altogether unlucky, and the weather in its course may fight against him. A continuous downpour may persecute him for several days consecutively. He may be condemned to ride tediously from mom to eve, seeing next to nothing. He must pack and unpack his scanty baggage in the rain, as the circumstances do not admit of delay. He must pitch and strike his tent on the wet ground, with the unpleasant reflection that the soaked canvas and sodden gear aggravate the burden of the animals already laden too heavily for the bad roads. But such obstinate ill-luck, though possible in his case, is not probable. He is more likely to meet with some bad weather and some good, more perhaps of the former than the latter, still some of each. The effect of each will be heightened for him by the contrast. Impend- ing showers will warn him that the sunshine is treacherous.
6 TEAVEL IN PALESTINE. [chap. i.
Again, the darkness will be broken by a burst of brightness. The alternation of gloom and glory constitutes, indeed, a peculiar charm. There is not much of that dull weather casting leaden hues on both sky and earth, that haze which deadens the landscape, that indeterminate condition of the atmosphere, neither encouraging nor yet forbidding out-door pursuits, to which we are accustomed in the British Isles; fortunately for the traveller, the weather is otherwise in Palestine. There the normal appearance of the sky is cheerful, sometimes even brilliant. The clouds gather mto lowering masses, discharge their heavy burden of moisture, and then disperse. Immediately after their dispersion the heaven resumes its brightness, and while they are breaking up, and when the light of the heaven beyond is seen through the vapour-masses, the finest eflfects pictorially are beheld. Then at length the traveller is rewarded for the discomiort he has endured and for the toil he has under- taken. He remembers that he is seeing things which could not be seen except in fitful and violent weather. He reflects that like as those who go down to the sea in ships see the wonders of the Lord, so those who pass through tempest in Palestine behold the majestic moods of nature amidst the most sacred scenery and the holiest associations.
CHAP. I.] ATMOSPHEB.IC EFFECTS.
Such considerations, too, govern the treatment and effect in all the pictures with which these pages will be illustrated. Those who from their Eastern experience expect to find repre- sentations of a parched earth and a sky like brass, may perhaps be surprised at the atmospheric effects depicted in the illustrations. But, in fact, the clouds are given just as they appeared at the moment when each sketch was taken, so far as I could imitate them, however imperfectly. The atmospheric effect, too, is rendered as it was day after day at that particular season, subject always to any fault in my power of representation.
Thus the traveller will find ample recompense for any discomfort, even distress, that he must unavoidably encounter. Moverover he will have every advantage that can be derived from the cheerfulness and fidelity of those who attend and serve him. Miserable as the weather may be, he will be pleased with, and thankful for, the conduct of his guide and his servants, his dragoman, his cook, his muleteer, his tent-manager, his donkey-driver. These people evince patient endurance and unfailing alacrity. They seem to take physical suffering as a matter of course. They follow the principle that their employer is not to be subjected to any avoidable distress from bad weather, and that the daily routine
8 TRAVEL m PALESTINE. [chap. i.
of his convenience is not to be disturbed by this cause. The traveller, too, will be satisfied with the animals on whose strength he depends for locomotion. He will admire the Syrian mule stepping deftly on the slippery rocks, and even the humble donkey struggling through the morass. He will bear away with him grateful recollections of the light-paced swift-footed steeds of Moab or Damascus, that have carried him gallantly over many a march.
In the favourable season, say spring or autumn, the small tents obtainable in Palestine afford a charming shelter. But in the winter-time, which we are now considering, they are not really of much use. The traveller will take his tents with him, one for himself, and one for his establishment, but probably he will avail himself of them but seldom. For, if there should be bad weather to an average degree, he may be driven out of his tent by rushing water, or may find it bloAvn down upon his head in the dark hours of the night. Fortunately in the central portion of Palestine proper he need not rely on his tent alone ; for he will find monasteries, Latin or Greek, in the principal places, where a hospitable welcome is given. Securely lodged within the massive stone masonry of these quiet abodes, with his faithful beasts housed in stalls around, he listens complacently to the nocturnal blast howling
CHAP. I.] THE MONASTERIES.
without, anticipating the sunrise effect of the wild morn that will follow. He will make the acquaintance of the monastic inmates, cultured men of various nationalities European and Asiatic, He will perceive that of these institutions some are ancient, some mediaeval, and some modern, while one or two are superbly situated and surrounded with historic associations. Under any circumstances, whether he have his tents with him or not, he would do well to put up for the night at one or other of these monasteries by the way. If driven from the tents by stress of weather, he can, in the absence of a monastery or other European dwelling, find refuge in a small Syrian house or even in a cottage. On emergent occasions even lady travellers have been thus accom- modated, though for them the lodging will be rough.
Indeed the winter travelhng is as practicable for ladies, if they have equestrian aptitude, as for gentlemen. But in the interior of the country the marching can be done on horse- back only. For an invalid, or for special cases, a litter would be procurable, but such a mode of conveyance must be tedious and costly. From 'any part of Europe up to Jerusalem the transit is easy. From Brindisi the Indian Mail steamer runs to Alexandria in three days ; thence Medi- terranean steamei's. run to Jaffa in two days ; thence again a
2
10 TRAVEL IN PALESTINE. [chap. i.
carriage is driven in one day to Jerusalem. On Friday a traveller may start from London, and on the Saturday week, that is in eight days, he may reach Jerusalem with entire comfort. Therefore anyone, lady or gentleman, in weak health, may well reach as far as Jerusalem. Once within the city, he or she may be conveyed on a litter or a sedan- chair to the Holy Places, to the sights within the walls, to the sacred spots in the suburbs, and even to Olivet and Bethany. But any traveller who proceeds beyond these limits must be in the possession of health and strength. He may not be obliged to make sharp ascents on foot, though it is better to have the power of doing this also; but at the very least he must be able to sit on horseback during many hours for many days almost consecutively.
For one who travels by himself, with a small establishment of servants and necessary equipage, the travelling is com- paratively expensive. Of course the expense is proportionately diminished for a party of two or three. But now-a-days arrangements are made, through private enterprise, whereby a party of twelve or twenty persons may journey together on a settled and well-selected route, under the guidance of a trained conductor who is versed in the best local information. There are, of course, some plain objections to this method; still
CHAP. I.] PALESTINE EXPLORATION FUND. 11
it is effective enough for acquiring information, and it is inexpensive.
I cannot close this introduction without adding my testi- mony to that of many others regarding the practical value of the work performed under the auspices of the Palestine Exploration Fund. We travellers of to-day are thereby enabled to understand the history of the places visited, and to identify the sites inspected, with a certainty and a facility unknown to our predecessors. The religious world at large is doubtless grateful for the benefit thus enjoyed, but the traveller owes a special debt of gratitude which he is bound to acknowledge. Of the various operations conducted by this important agency that known as " the Survey of Western Palestine" is the one to which the following pages will refer. Its results up to a recent date (June 1886) have been well summarised in the publication entitled Twenty-one Years Work in Palestine. I may cite briefly some few sentences from it : —
" As regards the natural features of the country the
Survey has substituted exact detail for general statements. . . .
The boundaries of tribes, the march of armies, the way of
commerce, the fords, passes, and valleys . . . these things form
the foundation of Bible history, and they are found legible
to him that can read maps on our great Survey."
12 TEAVEL IN PALESTINE. [chap.!.
" There are 622 Biblical names west of the Jordan. Of these 262 were known before the Survey was begun, that is rather more than a third. During the Survey no fewer than 172 wei"e discovered and are now generally accepted, so that of the whole number of places now identified, namely 434, almost exactly two-fifths are due to the Survey."
" For the first time the natural features of the country have been laid down by the Survey in exact detail, so that the reader of the Bible may now follow step by step the events of which he reads."
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13
CHAPTER II.
SHARON AND PHILISTIA.
Landing at Joppa. — Sacred history of the place. — Orange groves. — ■ Plains of Sharon and Philistia. — Carriage road. — Halt at Ramleh. — Lydia, Modin and Bethoron. — Valley of Ajalon. — Moonlight view. — Mountains of Judaea.— Nicopolis-Emmaus. — Kirjath-Jearim. — Suburbs of Jerusalem. — Identification of Scriptural sites.
The map here inserted will indicate the route taken in the journey about to be described. This route is marked in red, and the eye will readily run along it, from Joppa to Jeru- salem, and by Bethlehem to Jericho ; thence by Bethel to Samaria; thence across the plain of Esdraelon to Nazareth and the Lake of Gennesareth : thence by Sepphoris to the coast of Acre; and thence by Tyre and Sidon to Beyrout.
Early in February 1883 I started about sunset in a French Messagerie steamer from Port Said at the mouth of the Suez Canal on the way to Palestine. Our short voyage was accom- plished during the night, in quiet weather. On a still and cloudy morning our steamer cast anchor in the open road-
14 SHARON AND PHILISTIA. [chap. ii.
stead of JaflFa or Yaffa ("the beautiful"), the ancient Joppa. Here, then, is my first view of the Palestine coast. This is, as it were, the gate of the Holy Land to a traveller approach- ing from the coast. This is the place as seen from the deck and as shown in the accompanying illustration (II). The town, being built on a low seaside bluff, seems to rise straight out of the Mediterranean. The lines of flat Oriental houses arranged in rows, one row above the other, are broken by Moslem minarets and domes of mosques. On the left are hil- locks overlooking a narrow beach. In the distance are just visible the tops of mountains forming the central ridge of Palestine. The sky is grey and dull after a spell of bad weather. Our steamer is the only one in the roads, but many coasting craft with their light-brown sails, and lesser boats, are plying backwards and forwards with the gentle breeze. The sea is now smooth, but the water looks as if it were moving in a listless, wearied manner after the furious lashing it has recently undergone. Its colour, a greenish grey, sets off the ochre tints of the town. I learnt how the passengers of the steamer a few days before had been unable to land at this harbourless place, and had consequently been obliged to proceed as far northward as Beyrout. I was therefore thankful to row in a boat across a mile or so of
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CHAP. II.] HARBOUR OF JOPPA. 15
sea between our steamer and the town, to land quickly under the protection of a reef, and scale by a rude ladder the wave-washed quay. The town, though picturesque, had the draggled look which all Oriental cities have after heavy rain. Joppa is not now regarded as a sea-port at all; it is merely an open roadstead where ships anchor for a few hours and pass on. Nevertheless it is among the ancient havens of the world. To it came the timber for Solomon's temple and for the second temple in the time of Ezra. It was the only position which the Jews possessed on the coast. The 14th chapter of I. Maccabees states that " Simon took Joppa for an harbour and an entrance to the isles of the sea." It was a solitary knoll of rock on a long shore generally straight and flat. Between its shelving rock and the reef already mentioned there is a narrow space of shel- tered water comparatively smooth. This does not, indeed, suflBce for modern ships, but must have sufficed for the small coasting craft by which ancient commerce was conducted. The situation was readily defensible under the then conditions of warfare. Though we no longer see many traces of its fortifications,' yet we know that it was fortified by the Macca- bees. Afterwards its walls were several times destroyed and rebuilt by Romans, Moslems, Christians. Its history begins
16 SHARON AND PHILISTIA. [chap. ii.
from about 1450 B.C., when, under the name of Japho, it was allotted to the tribe of Dan, down to 1799 a.d. in the year of the European revolution, a period of about 3,250 years. In these thirty centuries the supremely important event is that narrated in the 10th chapter of the Acts of the Apostles. We may read this chapter close to the spot where the event occurred. Here on the ridge of rock and masonry revetments was the house of Simon the tanner, buUt in the same style as that of the houses now standing. On this flat housetop, overlooking the Mediterranean, Peter saw the vision which revealed to him the divine purpose that the Gospel was to be preached to the Western nations dwelling across the sea. Here was the beginning of that missionary enterprise which has lasted ever since and extended to the ends of the earth.
After a short walk through the town, I decided to drive in a carriage along the new road to Jerusalem, distant ouly thirty-five miles, starting at ten o'clock in the morning and ai-riving by eight o'clock in the evening.
The road passes through the orange groves for which Jaffa is famous. At this moment the branches of the trees are bowmg under the golden weight of the fast-ripenmg fruit. These oranges are thought to have a delicious quahty rarely equalled and hardly surpassed in any cHme. Emergmg from
CHAP. II.] TEE MARITIME PLAIN. 17
the belt of grove and garden, the road enters upon the coast region of Palestine, which was in Hebrew Arahah, but is commonly called " the maritime plain.." Our route follows the border line between Philistia and Sharon. The traveller then pauses to consider the view which is presented to him as he sets foot on the Holy Land.
The view faces eastwai'ds, the Mediterranean is beuiiid, and in front are the mountains of Judah and Ephi'aim. They appear to be, what indeed they really are, the backbone of the country. At this moment their outline is obscured by the clouds and dai'kness around them, and their base above the plain is dark with shadow. On the right there rise up the sandy hillocks of the lowlands held of yore by the stalwart Philistines. From them was derived the name Palestine which the Greeks gave to the Holy Land. The name of Dagon the fiah- god survives in the village of Beit Dujan close to us. Behind these hillocks are Ekron and Ashdod or Azotus, famous in Jewish annals from the time of Samuel to that of the Maccabees.
On our left is the plain of Sharon, Beyond it, in the distance out of sight, ai'e the ruins of CaBsarea jutting out into the sea. The name Sharon, signifying a level place, has a musical sound to our ears, from the opening verse of the 2nd chapter of Solomon's Song, " I am the rose of Sharon."
3
18 SHAEON AND PHILISTIA. [chap. ii.
Doubt, however, has long been felt I'egarding the flower which was here meant. Conder, who is the newest authority, writes: " The rose of Sharon is best identified with the white narcissus which grows abundantl)'^ in the plains." I am not however, able to see tliis blossom, as the season is too early for the flowers to bloom. The champaign has a stiff loamy soil, whicli is well cultivated though for the most part un- enclosed. The young cereal ci-ops are springing up well. Thompson, in his Land and the Book, well observes: " Water to any amount can be procui'ed in every garden and at a modei'ate depth. The entire plain seems to cover a river of vast breadth, percolating through the sand en route to the sea. A thousand Persian wheels, working day and night, pro- duce no sensible diminution, and this inexhaustible source of wealth underlies the whole territory of the Philistines,"
We must recollect that this plain termed the inheritance of Dan, a valiant tribe sorely beset by the Philistines. It must be kept quite separate in our thoughts from the distant territoiy which the Danites afterwards conquered for them- selves (as related in the 18th chapter of the Book of Judges) at Laish near the source of the Jordan. This territory on the extreme north of the Jewish settlements is that meant in the Scriptural expi-ession " from Dan to Beersheba," signifying
CHAP. II.] VIEW FROM RAMLEH. 19
from north to south. Josephus writes {Ant., bk. i. ch. iv., Whiston) : " Abram fell upon the Assyrians near Dan, for that is the name of the other spring of the Jordan."
Such is the landscape as we drive for several miles till the tower of Ramleh comes in sight. The name Ramleh means "sandy," and the place is near the foot of the hills of Judah. Though close to many Scriptural places, it is not mentioned in Holy Writ. It had a very eventful history after the Christian era, during the wars of the Crusades. The tower is really a Moslem minaret, and fi*om its top a view is had of the whole Maritime Plain. Robinson wrote thus in 1841 : " From the top of the tower there is a wide view on every side, presenting a prospect rarely sur- passed in richness and beauty. . . . We lingered on the tower till sunset, enjoying the surpassing beauty in which the mountains of Judah and the plains of Sharon revealed them- selves before us." {Biblical Researches.)
From Ramleh the traveller has the choice of two routes to Jerusalem; first that b}^ lower Ajalon and Bethoron, to Gibeon, and thence to Jerusalem, which is the old way and the best one, though longer; second that by upper Ajalon straight to the Holy City, which is the new way and the quicker, though inferior in interest. By the first way the
20 SHARON AND PHILISTIA. [chap. ii.
travellei' must ride, by the second way he will drive in a carriage. It so happened that I was obliged to proceed by the latter way.
If the traveller proceeds by the first way he will pass through Lydda now called Ludd, where Peter was before he went to Joppa, and which became a famous bishopric after the Christian era. He may also see the site, of Modin, now. called El Medyeh, the home of the Maccabees. Here the patriots Mattathias and Judas were buried; here Simon built monuments " aloft to the sight," with seven pyramids, as re- lated in Maccabees I. ch. xiii. Here in the mountains before us the insurgent Jews, with "neither armour nor sword to their minds," gave battle to the well-armed and dis- ciplined troops of Greeks and Assyrians. They were undismayed at the hostile array, although " when the sun shone upon the shields of gold and brass, the mountains glistered thereunto and shone like lamps of fire." (Maccabees I. ch. vi. 39.)
Thence the traveller marches up the valley or pass of Beth- oron to the central uplands of Palestine on his way to Jerusalem. The historic events of Bethoron, which are the most glorious in the annals of Jewry, need not here be noticed, as a future chapter will lead us in that direction.
1 will revert now to Ramleh, where we have halted for
CHAP. II.] VALLEY OF AJALON. 2l
awhile. During the afternoon a fresh start is made thence for Jerusalem by the carriage road. Towai'ds evening we enter the outwork of low hills, which were called Shephelah, in Hebrew, and which are between the plain (Arabah) and the watershed range of mountains (Har). From the first ridge we look back, over the plain which has been crossed during the day, towards the horizon of the Mediterranean. At this sunset hour the clouds of the forenoon and afternoon have cleared away, and we have the same sort of view as that which Robinson had in the description already quoted. The plain beneath our eyes seems to smile with richness and to glow in the warm light.
Proceeding onward from the ridge, we skirt the heights over the partly cultivated valley of Ajalon which is within the Shephelah. Thus we approach the site which is still called Yalo and is identified with the Ajalon of Joshua. The hill-sides and slopes are striped with horizontal and parallel marks, which at first look like rock-strata. But they prove to be the marks of ruined terraces. Here was that terraced cultivation which once supplied the agricultural wealth of Palestine. Here were once the vineyards, the fig- orchards, the olive-groves. But during the distresses of many centuries, the stone walls of the terraces fell out of
22 SHARON AND PHILISTIA. [chap. ii.
repair, the masonry dropped away piecemeal, the fertile soil, which had been thus sustained, was loosened, the descending rains washed away the earth with the dilapidated stones, and so the garden culture disappeared. Now the fragments still preserving some of their original lines, the choked-up cisterns, the stumps of aged trees, are all that remain as traces of the skill and industry that once abounded here.
While I was making haste to sketch all these particulars and to take notes of the colouring, before the twilight should fail me, a soft light began to steal over the scene. It was the young moon, touching with light the mountain spurs, and the edges of the terrace-ruins, while the shadows be- came darker and more opaque. The moon was seemingly motionless, looking down upon the valley. Instantly there rose to memory the text, " and thou moon stand still in the valley of Ajalon."
This, then, is the subject of the illustration (III.). In the foreground are the carriage roadway, a ruined dwelling and the scanty remnant of olive- groves. In the middle distance is the hill-slope of Ajalon, marked in parallel lines by ruined terraces. Beyond it are the tops of the outer range just crossed, which hides the plain of Sharon from sight. In the distance is the Mediterranean almost mingling with the evening
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CHAP. 11.] MOUNTAINS OF JUDJEA. 23
sky. Over all is the moon-lit heaven and the fading red of departed day on the sea horizon.
On the heights overlooking Ajalon, we take our last look over the Maritime Plain and feel ourselves to be within the mountains of Judsea. This plain, though allotted to the Tribes on the partition of the land under Joshua, never was occupied as a permanent inheritance. With the exception of Joppa and its neighbourhood, the Israelites seem to have left the Mediterranean coast to the Philistines and the Phoenicians. Throughout their history they remained an un-maritime nation. Their national home was in the bosom of these mountains. There had their patriarchs originally sojourned; there was won that battle of Bethoron which placed almost the whole land at their feet ; there was the kingdom established. To these mountains they clung as their earliest and their latest refuge. They Avere mountaineers; and they ever cherished that imagi- native faculty and that tenacity of tradition which distinguish mountaineer races. Josephus said: " We neither inhabit a maritime country, nor do we delight in merchandise; . . . the cities we dwell in are remote frosn the sea." (Apion.)
Within these mountains was the scene of the conclusive events of sacred history both before and after the advent of Our Lord. Remembering this, the traveller is awe-struck by
24 SHARON AND PHILISTJA. [chap. ii.
the sight of the rounded summits, the limestone crags, the desolate hill-sides, the pervading aspect of ruin and decay.
As we start for Jerusalem, we may notice some of the historic places around us. Close by is Beit Nuba, a village of celebrity in Christian times.
In our neighbourhood is Nicopolis-Bmmaus which must not be confounded with the Emmaus of St. Luke's Gospel. Near Nicopolis Judas Maccabeus defeated the superior forces of Gorgias as related in Maccabees I. ch. iii., iv. He retained only those who had the stomach for the fight. " But as for such as were building houses, or had betrothed wives, or were planting vineyards, or were fearful, those he commanded that they should return every man to his own home.'' But those whom he retained wei'e marched to the camp on the south side of Emmaus. To them he said " Ai-m yourselves and see that ye be in readiness against the morn- ing. . . . For it is better for us to die in battle than to behold the calamities of our people and our sanctuary."
The mount Mizpeh, where Judas organized his fighting strength, rears its head to the north of us, and I shall revert to it in a future chapter.
Soon we shall be near Kirjath-Jearim where the ark of the Lord rested after being recovered from the Philistines,
CHAP. II.] ASCENT TO JERUSALEM. 25
The word jearim means " woods," and the place must then have been in the midst of forests. But, alas ! the hills have lono- been denuded of trees and shrubs. Tristram, however, (Bible Places,) writes that he found a piece of primaeval forest near here.
From Yalo and the Ajalon valley the carriage-road, which is well engineered, ascends considerably. But the horses, having had a brief rest, breasted the ascent well. Ere long we had reached the table-lands of the Jebusites and of Judaea, two thousand feet, or more, above sea-level, before we were fully aware that we had mounted so high. It was now nightfall, and the temperature, which had been pleasant all day, was cool without being at all chilly. Our faces were set straight for Jerusalem, and as we approached the city the pace of the carriage-horses grew quicker while the road became smoother and the ascent more gentle.
Then we entered the western, or the Frank suburb of Jerusalem, which is quite modern. Most of the houses have been built within the last few years, and fresh buildings are springing up year by year. They are constructed with light- coloured stone masonry, and the roofs are arched with stone-work as from want of timber supply, there are no ordinary means for roofing. The consuls of the several
European Powers now reside in this quarter, instead of the
4
26 SHARON AND PHILISTIA. [chap. ii.
interior of the city as formerly. The churches, the convents, the mission-houses, the hospices of the several Christian commu- nities are here. Among these, the structures belonging to the Russian Church are conspicuous, and can be seen from afar. But there are not any commercial buildmgs, nor any miscellaneous houses, for trade and industry have not been established here- abouts. Fortunately this suburb occupies the western, or only side of Jerusalem where no sacred associations, no historic remains, exist. Consequently its construction has spoilt nothins:, while ministering to the health and convenience of those whose duty compels them to reside close to Jerusalem.
Driving in the dark through a suburb which by daylight looks smart and garish, we came suddenly on the walls of Jerusalem. We did not regret to find that the first glimpse of Jerusalem was obtained by the dim light of the moon on a cloudy night. For the western side is the only one of the four sides whence no proper view of the city can be obtained. We di-ive straight up to the very wall, observing nothing remarkable. Passing through the shadow of a great terebinth tree, we enter by the Jaffa gate, of massive masonry, near the tower of Hippicus, called after David's name. Here we alight from the carriage and walk for a short dis- tance to a Syrian house which has been turned into an hotel.
CHAP. II.] SCRIPT VEAL SITES. 27
I arrive there about 8 o'clock, and rest in a chamber consist- ing of light stone masonry.
Something has been already, and much more will yet be, said regarding Scriptural sites. But this occasion may be taken to mention, in a general way, what is meant by their identifi- cation. It must be admitted that of the sites usually indicated to the traveller some are fanciful, some unproved, and some jjlainly wrong being contrary to the language of Scripture. At certain times of early Christendom, mid especiallj' of Latin Christianity, places seem to have been chosen as the scenes of prominent events in the sacred record, without due regard to the words of the Bible itself, and without study of the ground in the actual locality. The errors hence arising are but too well known to travellers in Palestine. Xevei'the- i^-ss the inquirer is not to be discouraged in his search for the sites of sacred occurrences and for the scenes of momentous events in the history of our Religion. It may be that the list of Scriptural places which cannot be at all identified is unhappily long. The number of places, too, which have been wrongly selected, is considerable. Still there is the satis- faction of remembering that the sites and scenes of many among the most memorable events are known with reasonable certainty. Learned research, scientific inquiry, antiquarian ex-
SHARON AND PHILISTIA. [chap. ii.
ploration, have thrown, and are constantly throwing, much light upon these themes. But we may read, mark, and learii the words of Scripture ; and thus furnished we may visit the sacred spots. There, with the ground and its surroundings under our eyes, we may read over again the passages of Scrip- ture. We shall then have a clear vision on many points of biblical o-eoo-raphy where our ideas before were quite shadowy. And we shall be thankful to find that, humanly speaking, we have a positive assurance regai'ding the places where many among the most essential circumstances in the Bible History came about. The exact coincidence, in numerous instances, of the actual topography with the sacred narrative, adds another bulwark to the stability of our faith.
In the following pages many allusions will be made to Scriptural sites real or supposed. But there will always be a passing explanation as to whether the particular site is cer- tain or not. Chiefly I shall mention those situations which are undoubted, as it is not always profitable to discuss those regarding which there may have been much dispute without any definite result.
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29
CHAPTER III.
JERUSALEM.
The Four Quarters of Jerusalem — Zion, Akra, Moriali, Bezetha. — View from height near Jaffa Gate. — City Bazaars. — Debris of the ancient city. — The Mosque of Omar.— Subteri-anean reservoirs of Moriab. — Wailing-place of the Jews. — The Temple enclosure. — Zion. — The Church Missionary Society. — Via Dolorosa. — Church of the Holy Sepulchre. — Structures of the Knights of St. John. — English Mission to the Jews. — Ophthalmic Hospice. — Sunset view of Jerusalem.
The sketch-m;ip here inserted will indicate the topography in this chapter and the succeeding chapter. The two chapters refer to the scenery of Jerusalem and its neighbour- hood. The subject has been investigated by explorers ; espe- cially by those who work under the auspices of the Palestine Exploration enterprise. I shall not enter on the details of discovery, or the points of controversies, but shall content myself by I'ecapitulating the salient features which present themselves to the spectator.
30 JERUSALEM. [chap. hi.
For a due understandiug of the scenes about to be depicted it is necessary to survey briefly the localities of the Holy City.
Though Jerusalem was originally built on a cluster of hills with ravines more or less deep between them, it now seems to stand on a mountainous plateau, because the intervening depressions have been filled up with the debris of ages. Thus though the modern city stands on the same site as the ancient, its creneral sui-face has been much altered. This surface has indeed eminences and indentations, but to the traveller it looks like an undulating plateau, with a slight incline from west to east, overlooking the valley of the Kedron and facing towards the Olivet range.
The four quarters of the city, as now recognized by travellers, are Zion and Akra on the western side, Moriah and Bezetha on the eastern side. Akra is not mentioned in Scripture, and was pi'obably included with Zion in the upper city. Bezetha, too, is not mentioned in Scripture, and our knowledge of it is derived from Josephus. It was not inhabited under the kings of Judah, but was occupied as a new quarter in after times. There was another quarter, Ophel, mentioned in the Book of Chronicles and by Nehemiah, but that is now uninhabited and outside the present city. Akra contains the tower of Hippicus
CHAP. III.] SITUATION OF THE CITY. ,S1
already mentioned, and is regarded as tlie citadel, whereas the ancient citadel was on Moriah. It is inhabited chiefly by Europeans, and Christians of other nationalities. Zion is occupied by Armenians and Jews, Moriah and Bezetha by Moslems. The spectator, standing on Akra and looking towards the surrounding heights, is subject to some optical deception. He will probably imagine Zion and Olivet to be considerably higher than his position, and Moriah lower. In fact, however, there is not much difference in altitude between these several hills. In Warren's Temple or Tomb (1880) the following elevations are given above sea-level: Church of the Holv Sepulchre, 2,490 feet; Zion, 2,470; Moriah, 2,440. Other eleva- tions are thus given by the Ordnance Survey: Russian Hospice in the western suburb, 2,660 feet; Jaffa gate, 2,528; Armenian convent on Zion, 2,550; Bezetha, 2,520; platform of mosque of Omar on temple site, 2,435; Gethsemane near Kedron, 2,279; Mount of Olives, 2,643.
The Jaffa or western gate, stands on the uppermost part of Akra. In the wall close by is the tower of Hippicus built bj' Herod the Great. Some of the Herodean masonry was preserved by Titus and is still to be seen. The tower is generally but erroneously called by the name of David. At a short distance inside the city is the reservoir commonly
32 JERUSALEM. [chap. hi.
called " Hezekiah's Pool." Some modern authorities identify it with the second or lower pool of Gihon. It was on this water that Hezekiah depended, when, as related in the 32nd chapter of the Second Book of Chronicles, he stopped the supply of the first or uppermost pool of Gihon outside the walls, awaiting the Assyrian siege.
As already seen, the Hotel is near the Jaffa gate, and consequently has a situation very favourable lor views. Arriving there at night, I was told that the window of my room commanded a view of the whole city. But the fitful moon- light in a cloudy sky did not enable me to make out anything. At daybreak I looked out from the casement, and was indeed rewarded ; for there lay the whole of Jerusalem right beneath the eye, with the Olivet range beyond. Though clouds were gathering behind from the west, yet in front, on the east, the sky was clear and serene. The Olivet range was in dark shadow against the faint brightness of the dawn. The sun rose from behind the range, and its slanting rays began to light up point after point in the city. Thus were observable in succession, the Moslem mosque built on the very site of the Jewish temple, the minarets near the sites of Herod's palace and the Antonia tower, the modern Jewish Synagogue on Zion, the ruined structures of the Hospitallers and the
CHAP. III.] VIEW FROM AKBA. 33
Knights of St. John, the cupola and fapade of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. A fit foreground to this view was afforded by Hezekiah's Pool. Thus all the four quarters of the city are seen simultaneously. Of these, Akra, from which I was looking, and Moriah, which came right in front but slightly below the eye, were conspicuous. On the right was the height of Zion. Then Bezetha was less perceptible, being partly hid from sight by the structures on Akra. It has fewer objects of im- portance than any of the other three quarters. The Olivet range is often indicated by guides as the place where the Lord's Prayer was first delivered ; but this must be wrong, as that event occurred in Galilee. The highest or southerly point of this range is the Mount of Olives.
The most prominent object in this prospect is the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. It may or may not be on the true site. At all events it is surrounded with the associa- tions of many Christian centuries, and is on that account to be venerated. The eye, after resting awhile upon it, roams naturally over the other objects in succession.
I am fortunate in havino- a historic sheet of water as a foreground to a view of the city. Hezekiah's Pool, though turbid, yet reflects darkly the surrounding houses with their Oriental balconies.
34 JEBUSALEM. [chap. itt.
The aspect of the city in the early hours of the day at this winter season is quiet, with a cool grey colouring. This differs from the garish look of the place during the latter hours of the day at other seasons. The Olivet range gains greatly from being in shadow, against a light sky. Indeed, its appearance when seen under the midday glare is very poor. A few olive trees are thinly scattered on its bare side.
This view, then, which I had ample opportunity of sketching, is the subject of the illustration (IV.).
In the background is the violet-grey of the Olivet range, against the amber tints of the sunrise sky. The Mount of Olives, being to the right, is just out of the pictui'e. In the middle distance is the dome of Omar's mosque on the temple site. Near it the minarets mark the position of the Antonia tower and the judgment-hall. In the nearer part of the picture the Church of the Holy Sepulchre rears its cupola dark with a sheeting of lead. Some parts of the early Christian architecture are shown. This cupola is the structure about the repairs of which disputes arose in 1853 and ended in the Crimean war. On the right of it are just seen the ruined structures that once belonged to the Knights of St. John. The houses of the
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CHAP. III.] INTEIilOn OF THE CITY. 35
city are flat-topped, with small domes like bee-hives. From their midst arise the tapering forms of Moslem minarets. No Christian spires are to be seen. In the foreground is Hezekiah's Pool, at some depth below the eye. Its water has darkish hues and the reflections are somewhat dim.
From Akra the traveller proceeds on foot along the roughly paved streets of the city, which now contains from 20,000 to 25,000 inhabitants.
Here is a mercantile quarter, if we may thus designate the quarter where the bankers chiefly live. Inasmuch as trade or local industry scarcely exists here, the banking business mainly relates to the funds of the religious corporations and institutions, which are very numerous. There are, of course, bazaars, often over-arched and well-shaded. Their shade is, indeed, so pervading as to impart a sombre aspect. To the eye of a poetic observer they might even seem to have a sort of melancholy appropriate to the place. Though highly picturesque and stored with curious things, they have not that bustling variety, that kaleidoscopic brilliancy, for which Oriental bazaars are generally noted. Farther on, in the heart of the city, the perspective and vista of the descending streets are closed and ended by glimpses of the Olivet range beyond.
36 JERUSALEM. [chap. m.
With such a supremely interesting background as that, several of these streets present very noteworthy views.
As the traveller walks on, he perceives that his foot-steps are not upon the original ground of Jerusalem, but upon a mass of super-imposed matter which has been strewn over the whole site. History enumerates seventeen captures of the Holy City, eleven of which were attended by sieges more or less destructive. After many of these events the houses then standing were razed to the earth. These were in time succeeded by new houses which in their turn wei'e overthrown at the next siege, and so on, each capture adding to the accumulation of rubbish. Thus the traveller learns that a compact layer or solid coating, from 30 to 50 feet in thick- ness, has been by degrees spread over the entire space. Even the valleys and ravines between the several hills on which the city was built have been so far filled up as to have partly lost their special character, as already mentioned. The Tyropoeon brook is perhaps the most particular instance. The traveller will have heard of this brook, or read of it in Josephus, as a landmark in the interior of this city; but he will not find it. Nevertheless it was so deep that at its exit from the city at Moriah the bridge-span was more than 100 feet above its bed. Its course has been traced
CHAv. III.] MOSQUE OF OMAR. 37
by the discovery of the arch, and by deep excavations liere and there which have exposed the bed now overlaid with ruins.
Thus we arrive at Moriah, and, passing by the site of the Antonia fortress of Herod the Great, obtain a pass at the residence of the Turkish prefect. With this pass we enter the enclosure of Solomon's temple, now belonging to the Mos- lems and by them designated with some of the holiest names that their sacred literature can supply. In their eyes it is, of all places, the second, or at least the third, in sanctity. The traveller cannot now realise the swelling form, almost like a very broad dome, which Moriah is believed to have had in the days of David and Araunah. It has been made flat by the levelling of ages. Over the Jewish holiest of holies the mosque of Omar rears its head. Its dome, with its ribbed surface, great dimensions and beautiful proportions, is one ol the finest domes in the world.
As Warren well observes in his Temple or Tomb, it was not built as u mosque at all, but as a shrine or "wali." Its in- terior was designed to be splendid. But the ornamentation, though elaborate and gorgeous, is somewbat gaudy and tawdry, without due arrangement of colour or regard to general effect. Whether, apart from its historic interest, this mosque deserves admiration, is a question which depends on the previous
38 JERUSALEM. [chap. in.
experience of the spectator. Except for its dome, it will, perhaps, not be really admired by those whose standard of judgment has been formed from observation of Moslem ai'chi- tecture in Eastern or Central Asia. In the interior there is a sacred rock covered by a silken canopy of great size and elegance. Beneath is a subterranean chapel, but unfortunately we were not allowed to see it.
Close by is the mosque El Aksa, which was originally a Christian church. Its interior has been but little altered by the Moslems, and presents a very curious sight.
Underneath the temple enclosure are cisterns, chambers, passages, flights of steps, rows of massive pillars — most of which are hewn out of the solid rock. These were begun by Solo- mon and iinished by his successors. Enough light is admitted through scanty apertures to set off the bold shapes of the rock-hewn architecture, and to deepen the gloom of the shadows. Several subjects for the painter are to be found here.
Tristram well observes that the rock-formation of Moriah is "pierced wifh wells and honey-combed with reservoirs." Thus the traveller realises the original fact that the site of Jerusa- lem had no water-supply save, perhaps, one spring in Moriah. The water had to be brought from a distance for a population which was ordinarily not much less than a hundred thousand,
CHAP. III.] ANCIENT WATER SUPPLY. 39
and on annual occasions might amount to nearly a million. The principal reservoirs were in the hills south of Bethlehem, about nine miles off, and endure to this- day, under the name of Solomon's Pools, as a memorial of his genius. The water was conducted by aqueducts and channels. Neither reservoirs nor channels could be defended against any enemy who was victorious in the field. But the vital supply had to be rendered secure in a city liable to persistent attack and designed to withstand long sieges. Consequently reservoirs had to be excavated in Moriah, whereby vast quantities of water could be stored within the strongest Unes of the fortifications. The arrangements for this extensive storage have been investigated recently. The science of hydi'aulic engineering could not have been known to Solomon's ofiicers, therefore the practical ingenuity of the ancient Jews excites wonder.
From the temple enclosure two departures may be taken by those who wish to understand Jerusalem; one leading towards Zion, the other taking us by another way back to Akra, whence we started.
In the first place, then, the traveller, leaving the temple enclosure with his face towards Zion, notices the outer face of the ancient wall which bounds the sacred area. Just here are some masonry layers, undoubtedly of Solomon's time, many tiers
40 JERUSALEM. [chap. in.
of massive stones, straight hewn in oblong shapes. These stones are of a size unknown in the buildings of modern times, and a reverent observer will consider that they belong to an age when there were giants on the earth. Here is "the wailing- place of the Jews," so called because every Friday the Jews who may be in Jerusalem assemble to read psalms of peni- tence, to lament over the scattei'ing of their nation, and to pray for its restoration to the patriarchal home. I had not an opportunity of seeing this ceremony, but was able fortunately to see something even better. For through the aid of a friendly Rabbi I was present, unobserved, on another da}' when the Jews came singly and quietly, without any form or ceremony, to weep over the beloved stones. Man after man would come, quite by himself, in black robes, with a grief-stricken counte- nance, would recite verses from his psalm-book in low tones, and would press his brows against the mighty masonry. It is literally true, as Porter has said of these Jews, that they moisten the stones of Solomon with their tears.
Close by was the site of the Asmonean house or palace of the Maccabees, as mentioned by Josephus. In this house Herod Antipas was sojourning (having come from Galilee) when Our Lord was sent to him by Pilate.
Near against the west side of the temple enclosure is a
CHAP. III.] PALACE OF HEROD. 41
part of the arch of the Tyropoeon bridge discovered by Robin- son ; also the remains, discovered by Wilson and Warren, of the viaduct and causeway which once crossed the valley between Zion and Moriah. This depression has been largely filled up by ruins, and is overgrown by rank vegetation. The traveller will follow a pathway winding round it on his way to Zion. Thus he will pass by the site of the palace of Herod the Great. To that house Pilate had come for the Jewish festival, having left his head-quarters at Ctesarea and travelled to Jerusalem by Lydda and Bethoron. Here he was sojourning on that day when our Lord was brought before him by the Jews ; and here was the judgment-hall in which the death-sentence was given. Josephus thus describes the structure in his Antiquities of the Jews: — "He (Herod) built himself a palace in the upper city, raising the rooms to a very great height, and adorning them with the most costly furniture of gold and marble seats and beds." The space hereabouts used to be called the Xystus, or place of public assembly.
The hill and ancient citadel of Zion is partly without and partly within the present walls of the city. The highest point outside the walls is surmounted by the so-called tomb of David, which is jealously guarded by the Moslems, and
cannot be seen by Christians. From Conder's authority it
6
42 JERUSALEM. 1 ohap. hi.
would appear that the real tomb of David must have been in Akra, not far from Hezekiah's Pool. Around the buildings on the top of Zion are some traditional sites connected with the Last Supper and the events which ensued that nio;ht. These sites, however, have no confirmation either from the language of Scripture or from topographical enquiry.
Close by are some very useful schools belonging to the Church Missionary Society, where religious and secular in- struction is given not only to Moslem and heathen children, but also to waifs and strays of Christian races. Practical Christianity is thus illustrated in its earliest home, and some result worthy of the sacred associations is achieved.
I shall now revert to the temple enclosure, in order to take the second departure, namely, that towards Akra, by a way different from that by which we came.
This way is the "Via Dolorosa" of Christian tradition, along which our Lord is believed by many to have passed towards Calvary. The death-procession started from Pilate's judgment-hall, but we know not what route it actually took. I walked up the "Via Dolorosa." The original pathway umst be lying many feet below the present ground on which we tread. The length and toilsomeness of the ascent makes us doubt whether the sad procession could have followed this
CHAP. III.] CHURCH OF THE HOLY SEPULCHRE. 43
route. Thus, at length, I reach the Church of the Holy Sepulchre.
We may enter the church, and stand in wonder at its matchless interior. Other churches in other lands may be more splendid and imposing, but this is the most interesting church in all Christendom. Sombreness, solemnity, variety, richness, are its characteristics. The obscurity in the dim, scanty light, the cool yet heavy air, deepen the effect on the mind and sadden the spirit, without depressing the imagination. As the eye wanders through the interior space of the dome, or is confined by the narrow bounds of the subterranean chambers, or rests on the gorgeously-wrought screens in the chapels, a marked variety of style, design and decoration is to be seen. For within this area are collected the relics and the devotional offerings of both the Latin and the Greek communities. The ceremonies on high festivals must be very impressive. But all who are zealous for the honour of Christianity in the East must be sorry to hear of the disputes which sometimes occur between these communities on sacred occasions, and of the mutual recrimi- nations that thus arise.
There is a marble sarcophagus over the very spot where the rock-hewn chamber of our Lord's burial is believed to
44 JERUSALEM. [chap. in.
have been. The original rock cannot be seen, being over- laid with structures. Pilgrims come hither from all countries to kiss the marble. Among them I recognized the costumes of Russian worshippers, in the middle rank and in the humbler classes, which I had seen in my travels in Kief and Moscow. Many picturesque garbs from Siberia and from Mid- Asia, as well as from Eastern Europe, were notice- able. However different they might be in language and habit, they seemed to be one in their intense devotion. Here, again, was a subject for poetic treatment pictoriaUy. Even those who reasonably doubt whether this is the real place of our Lord's death and burial, and whether that most holy spot has been, or can be, discovered, will yet sympathize reverently with the hallowed traditions and the historic memories that gather round the Church of the Holy Sepulchre.
Near at hand is the area known as the MAristan, con- taining the structures raised in the crusading age by the Knights of the Order of St. John. The mighty work of this organization amidst the islands and shores of the Mediterranean, lends a touching interest to the crumbling masonry which once sheltered the charitable yet militant establishment. The place is being cleared and explored
PHAP. Til.] ENGLISH CHURCH AND HOSPICE. 45
under German auspices, so that, with due caution as to where he treads, the traveller may move about the ruined stonework, glancing through the galleries, and peering into the vaults or wells.
In this quarter are the school and church belonging to the English Mission to the Jews. It is here that the English traveller hears the service of his own Church per- formed on the Sabbath. The religious instruction is given not only to children of Jewish descent but also to children of other races.
This is not the only English establishment here, for within the last few years an Ophthalmic Hospice has been founded through the good offices of Englishmen who are acquainted with the East, and are thus able to appeal to the generosity of their countrymen. This institution has already proved most useful in mitigating the various eye diseases to which the natives of Palestine have always been peculiarly exposed. If developed, it wiU prove a blessing to the people around.
Before quitting Jerusalem I shall present a sunset scene as I beheld it from Akra. This was the last view that I had of the Holy City.
After a stormy day the clouds at eventide gathered in
46 JERUSALEM. [ohap. in.
dense masses near the Mount of Olives, not resting on the mountain but hanging over it. This is the view which I have attempted to portray in the accompanying illustration (V.). The light of the setting sun struck the clouds, and imparted to them the highest colouring imaginable. Thus they formed, as it were, a gorgeous canopy and emblazoned standard over the sacred summit. The mountain itself has lost the forbidding aspect which it often has under the hot glare of a cloudless noon. Under the atmospheric conditions of this moment, it is aglow with a fiery light and is suffused with crimson hues. Under this pervading blush are hidden the dull details of the bare hill-side. Thus Olivet seemed for a while to be ethereal. On the southern shoulder we just discern the road coming from Bethany and leading to Gethsemane, along which our Lord rode on the first Palm Sunday. Beyond Olivet, the mountain range of Moab appears deep blue in the distance on the other side of the Dead Sea. Such is the scenery which displays Jerusalem as a jewel set in a casket. Though the mountains are close round about the city, they yet seem to stand quite apart, majestically veiled in their airy garb.
In front of the Mount of Olives we see the dome of Omar's mosque, the Turkish palace, the minarets near the
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site of Antonia, the lesser domes and minarets in the neai'er quarters of the city. On the right are Zion and its modern synagogue. Eveiy point in tlie buildings, high or low, throughout the city is tipped with the vivifying light of an Asiatic sunset. In the foreground is the water of Hezekiah's Pool. Instead of the grey, almost hoary look which the scene presents under ordinary conditions, the general effect is warm, brilliant, and exciting.
The blood-red sunset was quickly succeeded by the pale moonlight. The golden sky became sicklied over with a greenish cast. The fiery clouds faded into cold masses of grey. There was an opportunity of seeing, what many poets and painters have desired to see, Jerusalem by moonlight. That night there was for a whUe the magic beauty, the ineffable solemnity, which may be imagined but not described. In this winter-tide the chilly wind drove fleet clouds coursing along the sky, obscuring the moonbeams and for a time dropping heavy showers. Thus a sort of physical depression intensified that melancholy which, even under the most favouring circumstances, affects the scene.
For, whether contemplated by stilly night, or by busy day, Jerusalem is of all places the most melancholy. The place is indescribably attractive, certainly, but its sadness is
48 JERUSALEM. [chap. hi.
undeniable. Those whose reflections are intermitted through the hurry of sight-seeing, may escape from this sentiment. But those who are able to pause and reflect, cannot but be saddened. There is a depressing and ever-present conscious- ness that here is the centre of woes unnumbered, and here the scene of the Divine Tragedy.
49
CHAPTER IV.
NEIGHBOURHOOD OF JERUSALEM.
The Jaffa and Damascus Gates.— Possi We site of Calvarv.— Ancient tombs. —Mount Scopus and camp of Titus.— The brook Kedron.— The Garden of Gethsemane.— The tomb of the Virgin Mary.— View from Mount of Olives.— The village of Bethany. — Place where Our Lord wept over Jerusalem. — Corner of the Temple enclosure.— Ophe) and Siloam.— The glen of Hinnom.— Hill of Evil Counsel.— View of Mount Zion.— Its characteristics. — Circuit of Jerusalem.
Let us now pass through the neighbonrhood of Jerusalem, starting from the Jaffa gate, which is the first of the two western gates. This circuit must be made on horseback, with a mounted guide.
The bridle-road passes underneath the battlemented walls and bastions, with their ochre-grey masonry, mostly Turkish, interspersed with stones or slabs of ancient times. We first pass the second of the two western gates, namely, the Damascus gate. Then we gaze with wonder into the
caverns which were the quarries whence Solomon caused the
7
60 NEIGHBOUBHOOD OF JERUSALEM, [chap. iv.
stones to be hewn for the temple buildino:. Next is seen the grotto called after the name of Jeremiah.
Near here, just outside the walls, is an eminence, of a rounded form for the most part, to which I must allude with reverent reserve, for it is believed by many competent persons to be the real Calvary. It is readily accessible from the site of the judgment-hall (already mentioned), through the Bezetha quarter and the Damascus gate. This consider- ation somewhat assists the argument in its favour. For the toilsomeness of the Via Dolorosa adds to the difficulties, which otherwise exist, respecting the acceptance of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre as the true site.
Moving onwards we see several chambers hewn out of the solid rock, which may be, according to their traditional repute, the tombs of several among the Jewish kings. One at least of these chambers presents at its entrance a striking subject for the painter.
Thus we reach the end of the Bezetha quarter, which forms the northern limit of the city. Leaving this limit behind us and proceeding i'urther northward, we ascend the hill of Scopus, where Titus had his main encampment when he besieged Jerusalem. Our bridle-road passes over slopes, hollows, ravines, undulations, all of which are now almost
CHAP. IV.] HILL OF SCOPUS. 51
wholly desolate. Yet here must once have been some of the finest garden culture in all the suburbs of Jerusalem. Titus found the scene smiling with richness, and adorned by skill as well as by nature ; but he made havoc of its beauty, and left nought but the traces of utter desolation. The work of destruction is thus described by Josephus ( Wliiston) : —
" Titus gave orders to level the distances as far as the walls of the city. So they threw down all the hedges and walls which the inhabitants had made about their gardens and groves of trees, and cut down all the fruit trees that lay between them and the walls of the city, and filled up all the hollow places and the chasms, and demolished the rocky precipices with iron instruments, and thereby made all the places level from Scopus to Herod's monument, which adjoined to the pool called the Serpent's Pool."
This, then, is the scene through which we are passing, on our way to the height of Scopus. The view of Jeru- salem from this height, that is ft-om the northern point, was the most important of all views before the Christian era. From that era it yielded in importance to the eastern view from OUvet. In ancient times the northern road from Samaria and the western road from the sea-coast (which tlien ran by Bethoron) converged just north of Scopus.
52 NEIGHBOUEHOOD OF JERUSALEM, [chap. iv.
Thus the greater number of worshippers, pilgrims, anrl travellers had their first and their last look at the Holy City from this point dui'ing many ages.
To-day also the traveller northward - bound bids farewell to Jerusalem from here ; or approaching it from the north, he will catch his first glimpse of the place from here, be- holding it much as it must have been beheld by the besiegers of all times. Then after a few moments the whole city bursts upon the view; and seen thus, after a long march, it strikes the imagination powerfully.
When 1 reached this point a violent hail - storm was descending upon Mount Scopus itself ; but as the storm was /ocal, the city remained still in sunshine. The atmospheric effect then added a fresh charm ; for through the fast-falling hail, which formed a haze like a gauze, I could descry the bright city in the middle distance.
Descending from Scopus on the road to Jerusalem, we soon perceived a streamlet, consisting of a small rift in the rocky hill- side, and generally dry, except after a fell of rain. This is the brook Kedron, and we follow its course till a small Turkish bridge is reached. From this point is beheld the upper vale of Kedron, which divides Mount Moriah of Jerusalem from the Mount of Olives, and which is called the valley of Jehoshaphat.
OHAP. IV.] THE BROOK KEDRON. 53
The streamlet in its upper course is so very small that the traveller wonders whether this can really be that Scrip- tural Kedron which is associated with many passages in the Gospel history, and which has always been an important feature in the topography of Jerusalem. In fact, however, the original Kedron has been filled up, narrowed, and even turned aside from its proper course. It is thus but a shrunken remnant of its former self, though clearly recog- nized even in its modified condition. The case is specifically stated by Tristram thus (Bible Places) : —
" So enormous has been the mass of rubbish thrown down from the platform (of the temple on Moriah) into the Kedron valley, at the successive destructions of Jerusalem, that the debris is heaped against the wall to a depth varying from 30 teet, at the Golden Gate, to 80 feet at the south- east angle, and 142 feet in the deep valley filled up near the north-east angle of St. Stephen's gate. The result is that the bed of the Kedron has been pushed 30 yards to the eastward, and raised 42 feet above its original level."
In all Palestine there are few views more important than that of the valley of Jehoshaphat, looking southwards from the upper ravine of Kedron. On the right are the steep banks leading up first to Bezetha and then to Moriah.
54 NEIGHBOURHOOD OF JEBUSALEM. [chap. it.
Their steepness has been much diminished by the accumula- tion of rubbish, as shown above. Along their ridge runs the whole length of the eastern city wall. In this wall are the Eastern Gate, called after the name of St. Stephen, from the traditional site oi his martyrdom, and the Golden Gate, now blocked up. Above it is just visible the dome of Omar's mosque. The wall ends with the temple en- closure on Mount Moriah, which I'ises from at least the foundations of Solomon's wall. On the left are the slopes ot Olivet, in the midst of which is a small but dense olive grove.
This is the Garden of Gethsemaue, as shown in the sub- joined illustration (VI.). Beyond it can be traced the roadway leading to the flank of Olivet, and winding round the corner towards Bethany. In front can be seen the village of Siloam, and beyond that the valley narrows till the view is closed in by the gloomy Tophet.
Thence the walled enclosure is soon reached, which con- tains that which the Latin monks venerate as the Garden of Gethsemane, and which is certainly on, or very near to, the site of the ancient garden. The word survives in the present name Jesmanea. The monks have planted flower- beds between some of the trees, greatly injuring the effect of the grove when seen in the noon-day light ; but in the
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CHAV. iv.] GARDEN OF GETHSEMANE. 55
early morning this hardl)'^ affects the general impression, because the shadows cast by the dense foliage of the olive obscure all lesser details. The trees of Gethsemane were cut down by the soldiery during the siege under Titus, but their descendants will be the trees now standing on or near the spot. Thus the sylvan scene must be essentially the same as it was on the night when our Lord suff'ered the agony. There can, therefore, be no grove on earth at all comparable with this in interest.
In the picture the trunks of the trees are faithfully rendered, the gnarls having been verified by more than one observation. The foliage has a darker hue than the pale grey generally seen in the olive groves of southern Europe. Through the breaks in the canopy of leaves, as thi'ough windows, is seen the wall of the temple enclosure, upon which the eastern light falls directly from the newly- risen sun. Above the wall there rises the dome of Omar's mosque. The monotony of the masonry is broken by the ancient gateway, which is now blocked up, and is believed to be on the site of the Beautiful Gate of the Temple. The two figures represent the Latin monks in their present costume.
Issuing from the postern gate of Gethsemane, we visit
56 NEIGHBOURHOOD OF JERUSALEM, [chap. iv.
the subterranean cavern chapel, which is revered by the Latin Church as the tomb of the Virgin Mary. Whether the tradition be beHeved or not by us, we must acknow- ledge that the scene inside this chapel is one of the most romantically beautiful in the land. The daylight flows in scantily from the opening above the rock-cut staircase, just enough to touch the surface of each step in the long flight. The monks in their flowing robes and the pilgrims are passing up and down. Then brazen lamps of curious shapes hang from the roof of the cave, lighted sufliciently to make the inner gloom perceptible. The lamplight, too, is reflected on the gold and silver vessels or ornaments on the altar of the chapel, and on the embroidered vestments of the priests. Then the solemn chant resounds through the rocky hollows of the sacred cavern, while the dim lamplight contends with the scanty daylight entering from the mouth of the cave.
Past the tomb, a zigzag bridle-path runs up the steep side of Olivet. The bare ground has a few scattered olive trees. A horseman very soon reaches the top — 2,634
feet above the Mediterranean. From this summit is seen the best view of Jerusalem, and the finest prospect in all Palestine. This prospect has two parts — one westward
CHAP. IV.] VIEW FROM OLIVET. 57
fronting Jerusalem, the other eastward facing the Dead Sea and the mountains beyond.
The eye first turns towards Jerusalem, across the Kedron valley just described. All the features of the Holy City, as mentioned in the preceding chapter, are clearly visible. On the morning of my visit, the view was seen to extraordinary advantage. The clouds rolling up from the west had congregated into a dark mass like a vast pall, but the light of early day from the east still rested on the city itself. The contrast between the bright expanse of the city and the background of clouds behind it, was such as can never be forgotten. The darkling clouds seemed like the mournful history of this most sacred place; yet the Holy City was irradiated by sunshine as if by light from heaven.
As I turned round and faced eastwards, my sight was dazzled by light flashing from a distant object as from a mirror. This is the Dead Sea, upon which the rays of the newly-risen sun are playing. It is 1,290 feet below the Mediterranean, and, therefore, 3,924 feet below us who are standmg on Olivet, 2,634 feet above the sea. Behind it is a line of violet-grey, stretching like a mountain wall and bounding the horizon. This is the range of Moabite moun- tains beyond the Dead Sea. Above the range there rises
8
58 NEIGHBOUBHOOD OF JERUSALEM, [chap. iv.
two summits, not exactly peaks, but squai'e eminences — these are Nebo and Pisgah. Between us and the Dead Sea there extend bare slopes, and the eye ranges over brown-coloured undulations.
Amidst these, hidden in a hollow, lies the village of Bethany, to which we now proceed. The path from the summit of Olivet to Bethany crosses several knolls, from one of which the Ascension of our Lord must have taken place. The ground is desolate, of a whitish-ochre hue, broken occa- sionally by the shadows of ravines. This colouring contrasts intensely with the azure of those parts of the sky which have not yet been reached by the driving clouds.
Bethany is no longer known by that name to the natives, but its identity is well ascertained. It is now-a-days called Alazareya, from the name of a person, Alazar. The name is common to this day, and probably belonged to the Lazarus of Scripture. It is easy to understand how the Alazar of Syria became rendered into the Greek of the New Testament by Lazarus. Though the place is not encircled as of yore by a belt of garden cultivation, and though the hills in which it is embosomed are no longer terraced with vineyards and fig orchards, still the village is charming even amidst naked hill-sides. In biblical times it was doubtless one of
OHAP. TV.J VILLAGE OF BETHANY. 59
the loveliest villages in the land. Despite the comparative desolation of the surroundings, its situation is still delightful, for it is at the head of the natural opening amidst the hills which lead from the Jordan to the uplands of Judaea. The humble homes of its little streets are of the ordinary descrip- tion, with but few ti'aces of antiquitj'. There are, however, several tombs hewn out of the soUd rock, one or other of which may have been the tomb of Lazarus. The village being placed on a slight elevation above the main road, a side street at right angles to the main street leads down to the roadside, and is finished off by a short flight of steps which are carved out of the primaeval rock, and which have doubtless existed without change from the earliest times. The road from Jeru- salem to Jericho is the same now as it was in biblical times, and the ancient rock-cut steps are also the same. It is in- ferred, then, that these may be the very steps by which Our Lord passed up and down when He visited Martha and Mary, and when He went to the tomb of Lazarus.
This, then, is the subject of the illustration (VII). On the right is the flight of steps with the peasants, the people of the middle class, and the wayfarers in the costume of the day. On the left is a field with the rising crop of barley, a few umbrageous trees being scattered about. Behind the field are
60 NEIGHBOUBHOOD OF JERUSALEM, [chap. it.
some ruined houses of the better sort; fanciful names and traditions are attached to these ruins, but are hardly worth noticing. Behind the village are the low hills, doubtless terraced with fruit-gardens in the olden time, but now almost naked and brown.
The very plainness and simplicity of the place serves as a foil to its deathless renown. The desolation of ages has failed to deprive the situation of its cheerfulness. The sense of repose may be as perfect as ever ; still the distant prospect to the east and south-east is inspiriting, and thus the quietude never causes any depression to the mind.
The main road from Jerusalem to Jericho, passing by Bethany, was in Our Loi'd's time one of the most important in the country. Approaching the plain of the Jordan it winds through a defile which is thought to be the finest of the many fine defiles of Palestine. This beautiful glen had always an evil repute for highway robbery, which was never suppressed until recent years. The events which com- monly occurred there are thought, with some reason, to have supplied the vivid particulars for the Parable of the Good Samaritan.
But instead of pursuing this road in its descent east- wards, we must move along it westwards to the southern
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CHAP. IV.] EASTEEX VIEW OF THE CITY. 61
flank of Olivet, a short distance of about two miles. Of all the roads near Jerusalem, none was trodden more often by Our Lord than this. It was from here that He com- manded the ass to be brought on which He made His triumphal entry into Jerusalem. A bend in the mountain-road reveals a part of the city, the southern quarter. Then another bend over the side of Olivet, and a turn round a corner, bring the spectator to the very brink of the Kedron valley, which alone separates him from Jerusalem. He thus looks across the narrow valley right on to the city opposite, which is in full and perfect view from end to end, from height to height. Just here a ledge of rock adjoins the road at the corner. This is the ledge upon which Our Lord must have stood with His disciples and attendants when He wept over the city, recounted its sins and fore- told its doom. From the sacred narrative, and from the nature of the ground, we may be convinced that here is the site of that most aflfecting and memorable event. Dean Stanley writes: "it is hai'dly possible to doubt that this rocky ledge was the exact point."
This is the subject of the accompanying illustration (VIIL). The view of the city is the same as that already men- tioned from the summit of Ohvet. It is indeed somewhat
62 NEIGHBOURHOOD OF JERUSALEM, [chap. iv.
nearer to our sight, and more on a level with the eye, as we are not now on the top of the mountain, but on its side, a short way down. The valley is here so narrowed as to be hardly more than a ravine. The spectator is raised only just enough to see over the whole city, without being so elevated as to have a bird's-eye view. Thus by nature the arrangement of the landscape is wondrously good. Had Jerusalem been a city of lesser renown, this view would have been remarkable among the urban scenes of the world. As it is, we may reverently say that the spot, where some of our most touching and solemn associations are gathered, presents the best among all the views of the Holy City. It seems beautiful from here in its ruined and half-desolated state. It must have shone forth gloriously on the first Palm Sunday when the superstructure of Herod stood on the foundations of Solomon.
The four quarters of the city are seen, as already men- tioned in the last chapter. On the right front of the view is Bezetha, and behind it Akra rises up. On the left front is Moriah, behind which Zion towers aloft. Farther on in the vacant space outside the walls is the site of Ophel, which was a division of the city in ancient times. From right to left runs the wall which the Moslems have built
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CHAP. IV.] EASTEEN HALL OF THE CITY. 63
on the old Jewish foundations. Though the city walls have been much altered on the other sides, yet on this, the eastern side, facing Olivet, their line remains unchanged. Underneath this eastern' wall rows of little monuments are seen on a narrow ledge of ground on the brow of the Kedron ravine. Here is the cemetery of the Moslems, who venerate this ground as being near the mosque of Omar. The mosque itself is in full view, and its dome is con- spicuous.
The course of the Kedron is hidden at the base of the ravine. On the spectator's side of the ravine, and beneath his eye, is seen the top of an ancient structure called by the name of Absolom's tomb. In the foreground is the sacred ledge of rock and the beginning of the road running to the right towards Gethsemane, along which Our Lord rode when the people cut down the palm branches and strewed their garments on the ground, crying "Hosanna!"
The atmospheric effect is rendered just as I saw it, and is the same as that described from the summit of Olivet on another day. The city is in a full sunlight bringing out every detail that could possibly be seen at a very moderate distance. The expanse of buildings thus illuminated is set off by the masses of clouds which have a leaden colour.
64 NEIGHBOURHOOD OF JERUSALEM, [chap. iv.
We must now descend from this angle of the Bethany i-oad down into the ravine of Kedron. At this time, February, the soil shows nought but withered vegetation. Some shoots of tender grasses are springing up, and ere long the rugged banks will have a green carpet of herbage spread over them for a few weeks in spring, before they are parched by the summer's drought. Here and there some groups of olives are seen, or pei'haps a solitary tree of that species clings to the steep hill-sides. Yet in biblical times each side of this ravine must have been one sheet of garden culture. Gone, however, are the palms, the figs, the vines which appear in many passages of Scripture, and from which some of the biblical imagery is drawn. Soon we come upon a part of the Olivet slope just above Kedron, where the ground is whitened over with countless stone slabs placed flat upon the earth. These indicate the tombs of Jews who have been buried here for scores and scores of generations from time immemorial. There is strict economy of the precious space, and the tombs are crowded together in the closest order. Fresh burials ai'e constantly taking place, and Jews come from distant lands, near the end of life, to lay their bones in the sacred and beloved earth. Here the very dust is dear to them, and when it is said of them that they whiten
CHAP. IV.] STONE-WORK OF SOLOMON. 65
the side of Olivet with their tombstones, the statement is literally true.
On the same side of Kedrou arc tombs hewn out of the rock, almost in rows, which are called the tombs of the prophets. At all events they must be the sepulchres of persons eminent in the religious and political history of the Jews.
A short but sharp descent takes us to the narrow and rocky bed of Kedron, and then we ascend the steep bank towards the southern corner of the long wall which, as already mentioned, is the eastern limit of the city. The whole wall has been erected by the Turks upon the ancient Jewish foundations. But at this particular corner the original character is best preserved ; for, on both sides of the angle not only are the ancient foundations perfect, but above the ground there are to be seen several layers of the vast stones, precisely laid one over the other and well fitted together by the masons of Solomon. Here is one of the finest speci- mens of that noble masonry which stirs the pride and com- mands the affection of the Jews to this day. Standing at the foot of this, the most noteworthy point in the walls of Jerusalem, the spectator sees a view of the highest interest. Looking eastwards he gazes right upon the Jewish cemetery.
Just above the slope covered with the light-coloured tomb-
9
66 NEIGHBOURHOOD OF JERUSALEM. [chap. iv.
stones is the line marking the route by which Our Lord rode from the turning-point of the Bethany road, past Geth- semane, to cross the Kedron by the bridge which then existed, and to ascend towards the eastern gate of the city. The line of road clearly cut on the hill-side conducts the eye to the dark mass of the Gethsemane olive-grove. Here, then, is seen the best view of that most memorable route. Above Gethsemane the rounded top of Olivet rises up, the regularity of its shape being broken by the monasteries and chapels with which the sacred height is crowned.
This, then, is the subject of the accompanying illustration (IX.). On the right stands the corner of the wall, at the base of which are the layers of Solomon's stonework. Above these grand layers is the Turkish masonry, surmounted with battlements of the modern style. The ochre-tinted stonework stands out vividly against a sky of intense azure. The figures represent priests of the Greek Church. Steep banks on either side shut out the Kedron from our view. Across the ravine, and opposite to the eye, is the Jewish cemetery. Above that we see the route from the angle of the Bethany road and the Garden of Gethsemane. The summit of Olivet looks down upon the scene.
From this point the city wall, built in Turkish times, runs
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CHAP. IV. 1 OPHEL AND SI LOAM. 67
up-hill in a westerly direction towards Zion, and we need not follow it.
Quitting, then, this very notewoithy comer, we enter upon the barren slopes of Moriah where once was Ophel, a quarter of the city in Jewish times. But Ophel is now desolate, being buried beneath its own ruins. Recently some portions of its walls have been discovered by excavations seventy feet in depth. Crossing these slopes, we come upon the southern limit of the city. Hereabouts were those ruined walls of the royal city of David and his successors, which Nehemiah visited with solemnity at night after his return from the Captivity, and vowed that the restoration of these national defences should be undertaken.
Farther down are the fountain of the Virgin and the pool of Siloam, whose waters (Isaiah said) go softly. Below this again are the remnants of the King's Gardens, by which the last of the Jewish kings escaped after the city had been taken by the Chaldees. Thence he fled down the Kedron valley to Jericho, only to be captured as a fugitive and carried to the presence of the victor at Ribla in the Lebanon region. These historic objects are on the right and west bank of the Kedron. On the opposite or left bank is the weird and quaint village of Siloam itself. The homes of the better
68 NEIGHBOURHOOD OF JERUSALEM. [chap. iv.
sort nestle at the base of the scarped side of the rocky hill. The poorer habitations consist of chambers I'udely excavated in the solid rock. The inhabitants have a wild and shy look. Though living close to Jerusalem, they are quite distinct in manner and habit from the people of the city. Above this is the Hill of Offence, indicated by continuous tradition as the height whereon Solomon set up idolatrous worship.
Below Siloam, the valley of Kedron is more and more narrowed till it becomes a precipitous glen, into the depths of which the sunlight hardly penetrates. This gloomy defile is believed to be Tophet, the scene of the Moloch sacrifices of children by their parents. Its extremity is overlooked by the Hill of the Scape-goat.
We must now turn back from this part of the Kedron valley, and set our faces towards Zion. As we ascend the steep path, we enter the defile of Hinnom, passing near the traditional site of Aceldama, the field purchased by the price of Our Lord's betrayal. The name of Hinnom has a mournful significance, but the glen as seen now-a-days is one of the most picturesque spots in the neighbourhood of Jerusalem. This, then, is the subject of the accompanying illustration (X.). On the south side the rocks are flat-topped and crowned with trees, while their scarped sides are pierced by many
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CHAP. IV.] GLEN OF HINNOM. 69
rock-cut tombs. Leading to the entrance of some among them are flights of steps also rock-hewn. These appear on the right side of the picture. In the centre are rich olive groves, seeming to fill up the hollow of the glen. On the left are the steep slopes leading up to Zion. In the back- ground, bounding the view, are the hills of evil name on the opposite or eastern side of Kedron. As we see the place, the mild radiance of a sunny afternoon is shed over the scene.
From the glen of Hinnom, which may be described as passing round the base of the Zion slope down to the Kedron we ascend the adjoining height, which is called the Hill of Evil Counsel, and which rears its head right opposite to Zion. The name of Evil Counsel comes from the tradition which alleges that here was situate that palace of the High Priest Caiaphas, in which the Jewish leaders — alarmed at the popular acclamations with which Our Lord's triumphal entry into Jerusalem was saluted — took counsel together to kUl Him. There are no proofs in support of this tradition, which has, however, been persistently maintained. It is not in itself improbable, as the situation does seem to have once been occupied by a structure which may have been the palace. The utter barrenness of the height is varied only by a
70 NEIGHBOURHOOD OF JERUSALEM. [chap. iv.
solitary tree, which is well known locally, and to which some fanciful legends are attached.
But the main interest of this commanding height arises from the view which is hence obtained of the southern side of Jerusalem. This is not only the best, but is the only good sight that can be had of Mount Zion in all its dignity. It is fi'om this stand-point alone that we can realise the position of the sacred mount, and can feel the full force of the text "out of Zion the Lord hath appeared in perfect beauty." The mount is seen to rise up to a height of its own, and seems to be separate from the rest of Jerusalem. It looks down in serene majesty upon the Holy City. Its head is crowned by the reputed sepulchre of David, though the real tomb is believed by recent authorities to have been in Akra. The sepulchi-e is built over with the domes and minarets of the Moslem. The graceful forms of these build- ings add to the picturesque effect. In front of these buildings, and somewhat below them on the hill-side, is the southern and Turkish wall of the city. This portion of the wall has no claim to antiquity, except that it follows nearly the old limit between the division of Ophel on the one hand, and Zion with Moriah on the other hand. Doubtless, as Ophel ceased to be inhabited, the authorities contracted the
CHAP. IV.] WALLS OF ZION. 71
area of the city. They must have taken the temple enclosure as their starting point, and carried their work westwards up to Zion, thus leaving the Ophel area outside. The masonry in the greater part of this wall is Turkish. From the Zion area, then, which is at the south-west angle of the city, the eye ranges to the south-east angle at the corner of the temple enclosure, which has been already represented by an illustra- tion. From that corner the slope of the ground towards the Kedron is rapid. Above the line of the wall, the dome of Omar's mosque appears, marking the centre of Moriah. Behind that, in the background bounding the horizon, is the Olivet range.
From the Zion height, the ground descends sharply towards the ravine ol Hinnom, already described. It is threaded here and there with foot-paths, or interspersed scantily with stray olive - trees and patches of cultivation. The spring herbage is at this time beginning to appear on the dry and barren surface.
As I see the view, with brilliant sunshine breaking through masses of vapour, and with expanses of azure sky between the dark-coloured clouds, Zion — whose name means " sunny " — has a cheerful aspect. This is noteworthy because the sombre sadness, which has already been remarked as charactex-istic of
72 NEIGHBOURHOOD OF JERUSALEM. [chap. iv.
Jerusalem, extends generally to the neighbourhood of the Holy City. The view from Scopus, perhaps, is less dispiriting; but the whole valley of Kedron is the abode of melancholy. Even from the summit of Olivet, the survey of Jerusalem, though superb, does yet summon up the thought of sorrows un- utterable. But it is not so with this view of Zion, which suggests nought save the palmy days, the golden age of David and Solomon, the assurance that the glory of the Most High has rested here, and the hope by faith that here will this glory be restored.
This view, then, of Zion from the south is represented in the accompanying illustration (XI.). The sunlight rests on the mountain-top, and on the structures near the reputed tomb of David. Behind these bright objects is a mass of dark cloud, just as I saw it, affording a fine contrast. On the left are the buildings of the Church Missionary Society. In front is the southern or Turkish wall reaching down to the corner of the temple enclosure. Above that we perceive the dome of Omar's mosque standing up against the Olivet range in the background. Then in the foreground are the steep slopes on the shoulder of Zion.
From Zion the city wall turns a corner and runs north- wards along the western boundary of Jerusalem. It proceeds
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CHAP. IV.] CIRCUIT OF THE SUBURBS. 73
to the head of the Hinnom ravine, not far from the upper or outer pool of Gihon. It then passes by the tower of Hippicus and touches the end of the Frank suburb already described m Chaptef II. Thus it rejoins tlie Jaffa gate, the place whence we set out. The length of our excursion round Jerusalem, about fourteen miles, appears much greater than it really is, because of the objects which, almost at every step, appeal to the imagination.
Thus our circuit of the places round about Jerusalem is complete, inasmuch as we have started from the Jaffa gate and have returned thither. We have in imagination passed by the Damascus gate, the grotto of Jeremiah, and the tombs of the Kings. We have ascended Scopus, the site of the •Itoman encampment, and descended to the Kedron. Thence, skirting the eastern side of the city by Gethsemane, we have crossed the summit of Olivet and passed on to Bethany. We have proceeded from Bethany to Siloam and Hinnom. Then we have wound our way around Zion back to the western gate named after Jaffa.
10
74
CHAPTER V.
BETHLEHEM.
Road to Bethlehem. — Rachel's tomb. — Town of Bethlehem. — Basilica of Constantine. — Cave of the Nativity. — Chamber of St. Jerome. — Missionary establishments. — Solomon's Pools.— Fields of Ruth and Boaz. — The Frank mountain. — View of Bethlehem on the height.
From Jerusalem a journey to Bethlehem is easily and con- veniently made, as the distance is only six miles, and the road is good. In a single day the traveller can ride to Bethlehem, see the chapels, the convents and monasteries, the missionary schools and establishments, the histoi'ic ground close by, and return to Jerusalem before nightfall. A short but most instructive tour is often arranged in this manner. Those travellers who propose to visit Jerusalem only, and are not able to undertake a march into the interior of Palestine, should still endeavour to see Bethlehem, which may indeed be almost reckoned among the surroundings of the Holy City. Besides its supreme importance as the place of the Nativity,
CHAP, v.] MABCHING ORDER. 76
Bethlehem is among the most certain sites of historical events in the Old Testament. It is mentioned in Genesis, and must have been well known to Solomon, who built his waterworks in its neighbourhood.
I proceeded, then, from Jerusalem to Bethlehem, lightly equipped. My two small tents, the baggage, the spare mules and horses, and a few camp-servants, are sent on from Jerusalem to Bethel, about twelve miles to the north, with orders to await my arrival there. I myself, with my mounted dragoman as guide and interpreter, am to proceed by a circuit I'ound Bethlehem and Jericho to Bethel, and join our little camp there. "We are to stop for the night at monasteries, and ride without baggage, carrying a few necessaries in our saddle-bags. I have changed my dragoman in reference to local knowledge and experience ; but both men are equally good in their respective ways. The drago- man at Jerusalem was a Syrian member of the Greek Church ; my new dragoman is a native of Lebanon, and belongs to the Latin or Roman Church.
The start is made from Jerusalem on a fine morning, after windy and rainy weather on the day before. The bridle-road to Bethlehem is the best in southern Palestine. Open fields with early crops springing up, and occasional
70 BETHLEHEM. [chap. v.
olive- groves, are met with on the way. On looking back we take our last look at Zion.
Pursuing- our way through a landscape that is smiling after recent storms, we soon pass by a domed structure known as Rachel's tomb. This comparatively modern structure, though standing on a point of great antiquity, cannot be identified as her sepulchre. But, according to the words of Scripture, she must have been buried by the Patriarch just about here on this line of march. The simple and affecting narrative in Genesis is called to mind by wayfarers of all generations.
Soon the heights of Bethlehem, covered with buildings, come in sight. Tlie town of to-day is quite modern, and presents a clean and pleasant appearance. It is beyond doubt the Bethlehem where our Lord was born. The place of the Nativity also has been fixed by a tradition which is locally probable. On and about the traditional site of the Nativity several spacious and stately structures, monasteries, and chapels, have been built by the Greek and Latin churches. Their frontage displays itself finely to those who stand in the square outside. Here is the Basilica of Constantine, venerable as the oldest church in the world. The architecture is not remarkable in style, but carries us back to the days of
CHAP, v.] ALTAR OF THE NATIVITY. 77
primitive Christianity. A short flight of steps conveys the visitor to low chambers beneath the floor of the main building. Here is an altar over the cave or rock-hewn stable indicated as the birthplace of Our Lord. At such a place I was surprised to see an armed sentry, a Moslem in the Turkish uniform, mounting guard. Violent disputes had arisen between the monks of the Greek and Latin churches, and the Turkish authorities were obliged to station a sentry here. Such a guardian of the peace, under Turkish rule, must necessarily be a Moslem, and it is dei'ogatory to Chris- tianity that its followers of difierent branches should by their conduct oblige the alien magistracy to take these precautions. Underneath the chapel is the rock-cut chamber whei'e for
many j^ears St. Jerome used to study and prepare the Vulgate
translation of the Scriptures.
A visit may well be made to the establishment of the
Church Missionary Society, and to the school belonging to
the Society for Promoting Female Education in the East.
The Missionaries, both ladies and gentlemen, impart valuable
information to the traveller regarding the social condition of
the inhabitants of southern Palestine.
From any housetop in Bethlehem charming views may
be had in nearly all directions, especially towards the east.
78 BETHLEHEM. [chap. v.
In that direction the distant mountain - ranges beyond the Dead Sea rise up above the hills of Judaea.
A few miles to the south are the reservoirs and aqueducts by which Solomon stored and conducted the water-supply for Jerusalem.
But we must now descend from the town of Bethlehem by a steep bridle-path to the olive-groves which cluster round the base of the hUl. Just beyond the groves east- ward is a small plain, for the most part cultivated, and surrounded on three sides by low stony hillocks, or gentle inclines, on which pasturage is obtainable. The fourth or western side is formed by the olive-groves of Bethlehem. There is no other plain of a like kind at or near Bethlehem. This narrow area, then, is one of the most historic places in all Palestine ; for, upon the clear inference to be di'awn from Scripture, here must have been the fields of Boaz, here the betrothal of Ruth, here the tending of the flocks and herds by David, here the first announcement of the Gospel to the shepherds at night. Our road winds round the plain. The cultivation is apparently the same as it was in ancient times. As I saw it, the young crops were spring- ing up, and they consisted of barley. The harvest was chiefly of barley in the days of Boaz when Ruth was
CHAP, v.] SOCIAL CHARACTERISTICS. 79
gleaning. A village headman met us just here ; he had the heavy turban, the grave features, the long beard, the flowing robes, the natural dignity of a Shekh. His presence recalled the ideas we have of the appearance which such a man as Boaz must have presented. The external habit of these people has been much the same through all ages. An artistic study of this man, his fece, figure and costume, on the very ground of Ruth and Boaz, would have furnished material for an imaginative picture.
On the whole, Bethlehem is enlivened by an ever-abiding cheerfulness, and must be described as one of the pleasant places in Palestine ; though our journey will take us to places yet more pleasant. Being salubriously situated within a few miles fi'om Jerusalem, it is a desirable spot for the residence of Europeans, and always has a small European society. It is a suitable centre for religious and educational effort. Its inhabitants ai'e of a mild and teachable disposition. Those persons, ladies or gentlemen, whose duties may take them here, will find the scenery exhilarating and the associations spirit-stirring. The frequent influx of pilgrims in greater or lesser numbers from all parts of Europe and some parts of Asia, must aftbrd subjects of unfailing interest to the cultivated observer.
'80 BETHLEHEM. [chap. v.
The position, too, is favourable for excursions, full of instruction as well as of interest. As we shall presently see, the wilderness of Judsea is near at hand, often conimanding lovely views of the Dead Sea. A day's march will take the student to Hebron, the patriarchal capital of southern Palestine. The view from the square-topped hill, known as the Frank mountain, the palace-tomb of Herod the Great, will fully rewai'd those who undertake the ascent. <
Looking back, from what may be described as the fields of Ruth and Boaz, towards Bethlehem, we see the best view that can be had of the town and the hill. This, then, is the subject ol the accompanying illustration (XII.). In the Ibreground are the olive-groves already mentioned, which in this neighbourhood are extensive and productive, though they do not appear to contain trees of any considerable . age. From the groves the bridle-path is seen ascending to the town on the height above. Near the brow on the ridge, are the ecclesiastical buildings, and the sacred structures over . the site of the Nativity. These are tipped by the rays of ■the declining sun. The sky behind ■ is ■ gilded by the rich light which is shed towards evening in these ■ regions • when the air has been cleared by recent rain. ...
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CHAPTER VI.
THE DEAD SEA.
Wilderness of Judaea. — Monastery of Mar Saba. — Lovely view of the Dead Sea. — Abraham and the Cities of the Plain. — Bedouin escort. — Descent to the Salt Lake. — En-gedi. — Water of the Lake. — Peculiar foreground. — View towards the desert. — Traces of earthquakes and igneous agencies. — Antique associations. — Chedorlaomer and Abraham.
Those who purpose to travel from Jerusalem and its neigli-
bourhood into the interior of Palestine, should visit the Dead
Sea, the Jordan, and Jericho, before proceedmg northwards.
They must, indeed, take this opportunity of seeing the basin
of the Jordan, if they are to see it at all without retracing
their steps, and without loss of time in moving backwards
and forwards.
I do not advert to the route towards the Dead Sea
from the south, that is from Sinai, Beersheba and Hebron.
That route is indeed most interesting, but it belongs to a
11
82 THE DEAD SEA. [chap. x^.
scheme of travel different from that which I am endeavoui'ing to pursue.
Those travellers whose leisure is scanty can proceed northwards direct from the neighbourhood of Jerusalem, with- out a descent into the valley of the Jordan, contenting them- selves with the distant prospect of the Dead Sea from the suumait of Olivet. But the victorious beauty of that prospect, under certain effects of light from the sky, inspires the spectator with a wish to penetrate to the strange region which is laid out deep beneath his eye. There is a shadowy gloominess in our ideas regarding the Dead Sea, but the sheen and shimmer of the water prove that even this salt lake is no exception to the laws of natural beauty. Here, too, is the mouth of the Jordan; and near the inland sea, on almost the same level, is the plain of Jericho.
A straight road, ali-eady mentioned in Chapter IV., runs from Jerusalem past Bethany to Jericho. The defile near the Jordan valley is one of the most historic, as well as the most beautiful, passes in Palestine. It was trodden by Our Lord during several momentous events in the record of His life on earth. This route is very commonly followed by travellers, who can thus reach Jericho in one day's march. From Jericho they can proceed to Hebron, if southward
CHAP. VI.] WILDEBNESS OF JUDjEA. 83
bound, or to Bethel directly, if northward bound, without returning to Jerusalem.
My approach to the Dead Sea is from Bethlehem.
A short ride from Bethlehem, along the edge of the historic plain already described, takes the traveller to the region named Jeshimon or "solitude" in the first Book of Samuel, and the wilderness of Judtea in the^ Gospel of St. Matthew. Leaving the fields green with rising crops, he enters low hills which become more and more desolate, until an area is reached which has always been utterly sterile. Rock, gravel, sand, of light-brown or reddish hues, are all that the eye perceives. At this time the air is cool, and the breeze pleasant. But in the glare of summer, with the heated blast blowing over these horrid hills, the distress to the way-farer must be severe. This, then, is the wilderness separating the uplands of Judaea from the Dead Sea, and forming the flank of the plateau that fronts towards the salt lake. Hither David fled from before Saul. Here was the refuge of Judas Maccaba3us under pei'secution, and of the Maccabees after his death.
Our route leads us to the monastery of Mar Saba. The Kedrou, leaving the neighbourhood of Jerusalem, enters the wilderness, and cleaves a way through the very wildest part
84 THE DEAD SEA. [chap. vi.
of that region. Its banks then become most precipitous, and its course is at the bottom of a very deep rift. Now the convent ot Mar Saba is placed on the brow of the very steepest pai*t of the Kedron ravine. The sight becomes dizzy to him who looks from the terraces of the convent into the depths of the Kedron bed. But when the gaze is steadied, the bold shapes of the rock-formations, and the varied stratifi- cations, are much to be admired. The situation of the convent, indeed, is the most weirdly picturesque in all Palestine. The structures too, with their numerous balconies projecting forth and almost overhanging the precipice, are so placed as to in- crease the effect. Solitude, or seclusion from the bounties of nature and the works of man, would seem to be the object aimed at by the founders of this institution ; so that in con- templating heavenly things, the inmates should commune with nothing earthly save the rocks, and lift their eyes to nothing save the sky above. There are hermit caves all around, and the very air teems with samtly legends.
There are several court-yards and many guest-chambers. Indeed, to shelter travellers in this inhospitable region seems to have been regarded as one of the functions of the convent. The rooms are furnished plainly but comfortably. The traveller usually brings with him his own supplies of food. The monks
CHAP. VI.] MONASTERY OF MAR SABA. 85
belong to the Greek Church, and many of them are Syrians by birth. Though sad-looking, as those who are dead-alive, they are courteous, and make the stranger feel that their con- vent is for him a temporary home in the desert.
In the early days of Christianity the monks appear to have suffered oppression and persecution. On one histoi'ic occasion the convent suffered from a Persian invasion which swept over southern Palestine.
Thus travellers to and fro between Judaea and the Jordan are lodged for a night, or longer, in this pile of buildings, which seem as if clinging to the giddy heights over Kedron, like an eyrie on a lofty crag. From any of the heights around the monastery, views of the Dead Sea may be obtained. The water would be full 3,000 feet below the spectator. His eye would wander over a rolling mass of low hills varied in form, structure, and colouring, but uniform in barrenness. Beyond the sheet of inland sea, the mountains of Moab range themselves along the eastern horizon. Behind the front line of the range two square-shaped mountains rear their heads; these are Nebo and Pisgah. Now, however, a new feature, not yet seen, is to be observed, namely, the mouth of the Jordan on its junction with the Dead Sea. Near the river's mouth a long spit of sand is projected into the water. This view of the
86 THE DEAD SEA. [chap. vi.
Dead Sea is remai'kable under any circumstances. In stormy- weather it must indeed have a savage grandeur. The water Avill look murky, almost inky, under the lowering clouds. The ranges of sterile hills which intervene between it and the spectator, and which lie beneath his eye, will in the dull light have a fearful wildness. Often, however, the weather is auspicious, and one evening I saw the Sea as shown in the accompanying illustration (XIII.). The sun was setting behind me as I looked eastwards. The sunset blaze, how- ever, in the then state of the atmosphere, cast a golden haze even as far as the eastern horizon. The whole range of Moab was standing up against the bright sky. The moun- tains facing to the west had the light poured full upon them. The same cause which rendered the sky golden, imparted a roseate colour to the distant mountains. Under this beautiful veil, all details of the valley or spur, all variations of light and shade, were obscured. Nothing could be perceived except the outline against the sky, and the expanse of aerial colour right down to the water's edge. In contrast to this colour, the water displayed other hues equally vivid. The yellow of the sky reflected on the bluish gray of the water produced a delicate green hue, something between that of the turquoise and the emerald. Against this Abater, the nearer ranges of
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CHAP. VI.] SITES OF SODOM AND GOMORBAH. 87
hills stood out. Though barren, they were no longer ill- favoured in appearance, for their tops, edges and crags were lighted up by the setting sun. As this view shows the Dead Sea at its best, in an aspect unlike that which it usually assumes, an attempt is made to represent the scene with something of its pictorial effect.
Though Mamre and Hebron are situated a few miles south of our present stand-point, still this is much the same view as that which Abraham had when, encamped at Mamre on the morn of doom to Sodom and Gomorrah, he contemplated the destruction of the cities in the plain. It is still an undetermmed question whether Sodom and Gomorrah were situated at the northern or the southern end of the Dead Sea, and different inferences have been drawn from the language of Scripture describing the view which Abraham had on that eventful day from the hills where we are now in imagination standing. Porter, in his Eandbooh of Palestine (Murray, 1875) writes thus: —
"Abraham then dwelling at Mamre, by Hebron, received the visit of the angels, and accompained them towards Sodom. After his appeal on behalf of the cities, he returned to his tents ; but early the next morning he went to the same spot, ' and looked towards Sodom and Gomorrah, and toward
88 THE DEAD SEA. [chap. vi.
all the land of the plain ; and beheld, and lo! the smoke of the country went up as the smoke of a furnace.' (Genesis xix. 28.) Lot, driven forth from Sodom at the first dawning of the moi-ning, reached the ' little city of Zoar ' as the sun was risen upon the earth, and Zoar was situated on the eastern shore of the sea near the promontory of Lisan. These facts indicate that the doomed cities and their well-watered plain were towards the southern end of the lake; i'or otiierwisc Abraham could not have seen them from any point at an easy distance from Hebron, and Lot could not have gained Zoar in the short interval between dawn and sunrise."
Tristram, on the other hand, (Bible Places, 1884,) considers that there is some reason for supposing the cities to have been at the north end. After advancing several arguments, he wi'ites thus : —
" After the destruction of the cities, we are told that Abraham, then encamped at Mamre, ' looked toward Sodom and Gomorrah and toward all the land of the plain, and lo ! the smoke of the country went up as the smoke of a fur- nace.' The accuracy of the expression is to be noted. Not he saw, but he looked toward the cities of the plain. From the hill above Mamre the plain itself cannot be seen, but
chap: VI.] BOOMED CITIES OF THE PLAIN. 89
the depression between the nearer hill and the distant tops of Gilead is plainly to be perceived, which is not the case with the depression of the southern end of the Dead Sea. Thus Abraham could at once have identified the locality whence the smoke arose."
It would seem that if Abraham actually saw the cities burning and smoking, then they must have been situated at the south-eastern end of the Dead Sea. But if he only looked towards them and perceived their smoke ascending, though they themselves were hidden from sight by the moun- tain-wall of the Dead Sea, then they must have been situated at the northern end, and in that case the Zoar of Lot must have been some place other than the Zoar on the Lisan promontory. But as the number of the cities destroyed was at least five (including Sodom and Gomorrah), we may infer that of those which were on the east shore he saw the actual conflagration ; and of those which were at the northern end, he saw only the smoke.
From Mar Saba the traveller takes with him two Bedouins on foot as an escort, according to the Turkish regulations. The name is really Budawin, which is applied to the people dwelling beyond the Jordan, In the inhabited parts of Judsea
the travelling is safe from overt theft or violence. But in
12
90 THE DEAD SEA. [chap. vr.
the wilderness nomad tribes are often encamped, or families joined into a brotherhood or cousinhood are sojourning for the pasturage of their flocks and herds, or stray individuals are moving about. Such a homeless society as this vnll be likely to prey upon neighbours or passers-by if opportunites should offer. Therefore an escort, chosen from among the nomads themselves, is thought necessary ; so that responsibility may be enforced if anything untoward should occur. With this precaution, however, the route by the Dead Sea Tnay be followed in secui'ity. As Ave left Mar Saba on our descent towards the Dead Sea Ave saw several of these Badawi encampments. Black tents, of coarse material and small dimensions, are dotted about on the sandy or gravelly soil, and sometimes are arranged in picturesque groups, contrasting well with the light-brown surface of the ground and of the hills around. Indeed, one of these encampments, Avith the arid Avilderness around, the Dead Sea in the background far beneath the eye, and the Moabite mountains on the horizon, would be a characteristic subject for the artist.
The ride is somewhat tedious doAvn the steep and naked hill- sides. But the monotony of barrenness is not quite un- broken ; for a short distance on our right is Eugedi, or Ain-Jadi the fountain of the kid. This place Avas made
CHAP. VI.] THE SALT LAKE. 91
famous by the Song of Solomon and, though reft of its primitive beauty, is still verdant.
Then dux'ing our descent we realise the fact that this salt sea is what geographers term the deepest depression yet discovered in the surface of the earth. It terminates the trough and the basin of the Jordan. The river, rising near the base of Hermon, descends rapidly to the sea of Gennesareth, which is 682 feet below the level of the Mediterranean. Between that Sea and the Dead Sea the river descends 610 feet more, making a total descent of 1,292 feet. Thus the broad water before us, a little beneath the eye, is neai'ly 1,300 feet below sea-level.
When the base of the mountain is reached, a mile or more of sandy undulation has to be crossed before we arrive at the water's edge within a short distance from the mouth of the Jordan. From the brackish state of the water, it might be expected that no vegetation whatever would be found on the margin of the lake. Here and there, however, reeds, rushes, and even some hardy wild-flowers, are perceived, and are beginning to put forth yellow blossoms. The salt water, percolating through the sand, may be so sweetened as to sustain at least some scanty vegetation. The lake, at this, the north end, is constantly receiving supplies of fresh
92 THE DEAD SEA. [chap. vi.
water, not only from the Jordan, but also fi-oin the Calirrhoe and the Arnon on the eastern shore. Consequently the water is not so saline here as at the southern end. As Dean Stanley well says, the Jordan flows in with " sufficient force to carry its brown waters far into the bright green sea." The fresh water from the earthy particles held in suspension will be turbid in colour, whereas the water of the salt lake will, from its composition, be clear and sparkling. The saline quality of the lake is chiefly derived from a salt mountain, Jebel Usdom, near the southern extremity, which is out of sight. Despite the constant influx of fresh water, the level of the lake's surface is preserved by the evaporation in the hot season. The heat in this profound hollow must then be intense, and all accounts state that the evaporation causes clouds of steam to arise and then hang over the lake for several months consecutively. This phenomenon is thought to have suggested some of the Scriptural imagery of smoke ascending. It must, if seen to advantage, cast a poetic halo over this sterile death-like scenery, and suggest a fine pictorial eff'ect. I do not, however, see it at all, in this the Avinter season. The clouds are rolling high overhead and the atmosphere is clear. Some atmospheric conditions, either by storm or by mist, are needed to render our view of the Dead Sea attrac-
CHAP. VI.] SCENERY AROUND THE WATER.
93
tive. Under any circumstances, however, there will be a fitting, though not a beautiful foreground. The Jordan is constantly rolling down the stems, trunks, branches, boughs of trees. These being immersed in the saline water become stripped of their bark, and encrusted with salt. When cast back by the waves on the sandy beach, they look like the skeletons of trees, and appear as the di*y bones recalling associations of death.
Our view, then, at the northern end near the Jordan's mouth, looks towards the lake touching the Arabian desert, not far from the arm of the Red Sea which is known as the gulf of Akaba. Recently much attention has been directed to the seventy miles of sand and rock which separate the Dead Sea from the head of the Akaba gulf, in reference to the project of a canal, which was not foimd practicable. Meanwhile our view, which is the most interesting one geographically, is not favourable pictorially, because the mountains on either side become lower and lower till they dwindle away towards the end of the horizon.
The most characteristic view is that which faces the wilderness of Judaea. There the hills are more abrupt, and their barrenness is in harmony with the ideas which we have regarding this salt and bitter lake. The mountains on the
94 THE DEAD SEA. chap. vi.
eastern or Moabite side are evidently not so barren, and are, indeed, in some parts productive. I had, however, no opportunity of visiting them.
The idea that the salt lake was formed when the Cities of the Plain were destroyed four thousand years ago, and that the site of Sodom lies beneath the shallow water at the southern end, is not only unsupported by Scripture but is contrary to its tenour. Geological research furnishes proof that the lake has not materially altered within historic times. Round about it are traces of earthquakes with volcanic erup- tions. In his La7id of Israel (1865) Tristram describes the sulphur springs, the sulphurous sand, the bituminous blocks, the masses of combustible material. Yet these fire-smitten shores were once smiling with agriculture. The garden cultivation of that time is known to have comprised products superior to anything now known in Palestine. The people who made these gardens, built cities too. What these cities were externally we know not. But tribes thus skilled in agriculture must have excelled also in many other arts of peace. In warlike arts they failed through cowardice of disposition. They were enervated by their hot climate, their luxuries, and their vices. They yielded to Chedorlaomer, who marched from the farthest end of Mesopotamia to invade
CHAP. VI.] ABRAHAM AND CHEDORLAOMEE. 95
them. Their salt-lake territory must have been regarded as a rich prize in order to induce the invader to undertake this remote expedition. After twelve years of submission they rebelled, and were again discomfited by Chedorlaomer in the vale of Siddim, at the southern end of the lake. But the victor was followed along the very ground before us, by a few hundred men of a braver race, under the command of Abraham, and at last being attacked in the dead of night was routed near the head of the Jordan valley. This event, described in the 14th chapter of Genesis, is not only the first of Hebrew victories in the field, but is the earliest operation recorded in the annals of war.
96
CHAPTER VII
THE JOEDAN AND JEKICHO.
First view of the Jordan stream and batiks. — Halting-place at the broad pool. — Batbiug-place of the pilgrims. — Crossing of the Israelites under Joshua. — Formation of their national character. — Approach to Jericho. — Site of the later city. — Crimes of Herod the Great — His last days. — Site of the elder Jericho. — Channels of irrigation. — Derived from the famous Fountains. — Past and present cultivation. Mount Quarantania. — Traditional scene of the Temptation. — Ascent of the mountain. — General view of the Jericho landscape.
From the Dead Sea northwards we strike across a barren plain, and meet the Jordan a few miles above its mouth. The river has a fringe of low trees on either side. We are on the right or western bank; from the opposite bank a narrow plain extends to the mountains of Moab. The vegetation, down to the water's margin, consists of small trees, coarse grasses, reeds, shrubs with tapering branches and feathery leaves. The stream is quite narrow; it may be fifty yards broad, but the breadth cannot be exactly measured by the eye. The water is high
CHAP, vii.] STREAM OF THE JORDAN. 97
and almost reaches the brim. It is indeed turbid and thick with particles of earth held in suspension, but it is not actually muddy. Its colour is a reddish bi'own, and its surface is agitated by the swift curi-ent. During many months in the year the river is probably a streamlet wandering over a sandy and shingly bed. But its volume is swollen in the latter part of winter by the rainfall of Galilee or Anti-Lebanon, and in the early spring by the melting of the snows on Hermon. I was fortunate in seeing it thus in full flood, because it was under this condition that the Jews under Joshua made their ever-memorable passage.
Then we march for a short way up stream on the right bank till an open space is reached. Up to this moment, our interest and curiosity only have been excited, but nothing of beauty has been seen. Now, however, the river becomes beautiful as it opens out into a large pool. The expanse of water, though brown with earthy particles, yet reflects on its surface the blue sky and the fleecy clouds. It is encircled by trees of the same sort as those just mentioned. But here- abouts the trunks are taller, the branches stretch out farther, the foliage is tJbicker, the underground vegetation is richer. Behind the eastern or lelt bank a precipitous cliff stands up
lowering and black, evidently consisting of bituminous sub-
13
98 THE JORDAN AND JERICHO. [chap. vii.
stances. Tn tlie distance the Moabite ranges are visible. We dismount to study the scene at a point where the ground shelves gradually down to the water's edge, under the shady trees. At this low level of the Dead Sea the climate is becoming somewhat tropical, and at midday the sun's rays are distressing even in the winter season.
I had not an opportunity of seeing the pilgrims assemble at Easter ; but the scenery ot the pool, as I saw it, is repre- sented in the accompanying illustration (XIV".).
In the distance is seen the northern part of the Moabite range, adjoining the region of Ramoth Grilead. Behind the Avater is the dark wall of bituminous formation. Around the pool are the trees and the vegetation ; ou its surlace are slight eddies from the current of the river. Near the sandy margin in the foreground are the bare, bleached, weird trunks and branches of trees floated down by the stream. They ma}' not, perhaps, be thought beautiful ; but they are characteristic of the place. As (he spring advances, the banks will, doubt- less, be adorned with wild flowers ; but none of them are yet to be seen.
This pool is distant, by direct measurement, about five miles irom the Dead Sea, and about the same distance from the site of Joshua's Jericho. It is the most important point in the
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CHAP. VII.] POOL OF THE PILGRUrS. 00
whole course of the Jordan. Here is found the only place where a large multitude could bathe. Certainly for many centuries the people have on religious feast-days bathed in this pool. Tradition has declared that somewhere near this point was the place where John baptised the multitude, and where Our Lord received baptism ; and probability favours this view. TopooTaphical research, however, indicates that perhaps the place may have been higher up the stream.
By all accounts the sight to be seen here at Easter-tide is wondrously picturesque. Pilgrims and devotees, of many races and languages, press on eagerly, crowding to the water's edge. They come from eastern Europe, from the shores of the MediteiTanean, from several parts of Asia, and even from some parts of Africa. Their types of feature, countenance and expression delight the student of humanity. Their costumes — clerical, ascetic, secular — afford an ever- varying play of form and colour. This restless crowd, under a hot sun, is con- trasted with the smooth water and the cool shade of the over-arching trees. This, then, would be a characteristic subject for a picture illustrating the Palestine of to-day.
After a somewhat depressing ride along the border of the Dead Sea, the traveller is glad to abide for a while at this pool, meditating on the Biblical events that have happened
100 THE JORDAN AND JERICHO. [chap. vii.
near here, and on the scenes which are still presented occasionally. This is, doubtless, the midday halting-ground ordinarily for those who are journeying from the Dead Sea towards Jericho. In other marches the halt is uncertain : sometimes it may be at one point, sometimes at another. But on this march the halt will usually be at this spot, and no- where else. Thus a fresh interest arises to anyone who thinks of the students, the antiquarians, the explorers, the authors, who in recent times must have halted under these trees by this water.
Near here the Israelites under Joshua must have crossed over the river-bed. The passage may have occurred at some point situated a very few miles up-stream. Nearly opposite to it must have been Gilgal, where Joshua fixed his first camp after crossing the river. As we turn our heads towards Jericho, the scenery of prominent events in the Old and the New Testament is before our eyes.
It was here that the Jewish nation first planted its foot in the Land of Promise. As we look around, we cannot but think of the wondrous manner in which that nation had been formed, up to the time of crossing the Jordan. If the influences of Egypt, the climate of the Nile delta, and the plenteousness of Goshen, had for several generations enervated
CHAP, vir.] JEWISH NATIONAL CHARACTER. 101
the Israelites, still the experience of one generation in the wilderness must have braced them up to the highest degree of nervous force. We cannot fully estimate the eflfect of the divine inspiration which guided them, nor can we measure the strength of the protection from on High which sustained them. But we can imagine the discipline to which they must, as a race of men, have been subjected during that weary span of forty years in the desert country between Sinai and Moab. The frowning precipices of Sinai and Horeb, the trackless sands, the untrodden wilderness, must have filled them with vague terror. Yet a way through this undiscovered country had been found for them. They must have been haunted by anxiety for food and water, though urged to move on laboriously, march by march, from day to day, over ground parched by perpetual drought, with their sti-ength withered by the blasts of hot wind. Yet sustenance had been pro- vided : the manna falling like dew, the seasonable flight of quails, the gushing spring from the rock, had come in time to save them. Their society had been framed and knit together by a perfect organization. Their laws touched every relation of life, and reached the minutest details of the social system. Thus they were bound all together in one brother- hood, tribe with tribe, class with class. They wei'e trained to
102 THE JORDAN AND JERICHO. [chap. vii.
obey their leaders as having divine authority. This obedience was rendered by them under circumstances that to human eyes would seem hopeless. Even if they escaped from the perils and miseries of the desert, and entered districts which, though wild, were partly inhabited, they met armed opposition, against which they had to fight for their lives. They had been warned of the consequences should they shrink from exertion, or quail before danger, or bow under fatigue, or evade discipline, or pause in their allegiance. They had wit- nessed tremendous phenomena, and had seen nature convulsed, the solid ground riven asunder by earthquake, the waters of the sea banked up in a vast heap. Yet through all this tribulation they had advanced victoriously : their ranks being unbroken, their numbers undiminished, their discipline unim- paired ; their social system being perfectly ordered, their laws, regulations, and customs being exactly preserved. Their nation, then, by divine blessing, had stood the test of the fiercest trial and the hardest adversity. Then the national character must have been developed together with the growth of the nation. Then were produced that unconquerable fortitude, that desperate courage, that adherence to system, that inward enthusiasm, that imaginative disposition, for which the Jewish race has been distinguished during many ages and in many countries. Never
OHAP. VII.] THE JERICHO PLATEAU. 103
in the history of mankind has any host been moved by such sentiments as those which animated the people under Joshua as they approached the Jordan. Their souls were stirred by the memory of perils surmounted through divine mercy, and by triumphant hope in the divine promise.
There is nothing to mari< the convulsion which, under God's providence, caused the waters of Jordan to fall back, leaving their bed dry for the passage of Joshua's army and people. Still, the surroundings and scenery amidst which the event occurred must be the same now as then.
Turning westwards, with the Jordan behind us, we ride over a sterile plateau towards Jericho, "the city of palm ti'ees," in Deuteronomy, as descried l)y Moses from afar. Before us :ire dark masses of evergreen foliage and the long-extending groves of Jericho. Thougli the character of the vegetation has greatly changed, yet, from the distance Jericho must have appeared to Joshua much as it appears to us. Behind this thick belt of trees a mountain rises uj) nearly a thousand feet al)ove the plain. It forms, indeed, part of the moun- tainous range which flanks the uplands of Judaea and bounds the valley of the Jordan. Still it stands apart from the neighbouring mountains. Its outline is sharp, its sides are scarped ; its colour, though subdued by distance, is reddish.
104 THE JORDAN AND JERICHO. [ohap. vii.
This is Mount Quarantania, to which allusion mil be made presently.
Approaching the groves of Jericho, we ford a clear trans- parent stream, rushing over bright-coloured stones and pebbles. This is the Kelt, so called in modern times. Tradition has declared it to be the brook Cherith of Elijah, and thus it is generally named by the guides. This tradition is not, how- ever, supported by enquiry. If the language of Scripture be studied with reference to the country before us, we shall perceive that the Cherith of Elijah must have been far away from here.
Before entering the woods around the oldest of the sites, the traveller will probably ride along the bank of the charming Kelt to see the site of the later Jericho. This was built some three miles away from the elder Jericho, the rebuilding of which was forbidden after its destruction in the time of Joshua. The first Jericho was, as will be remembered, a beautiful city. The second Jericho must have been still larger and richer. It became in time the temporary abode of royalty, and the resort of the noble and the wealthy in Judaea. Doubtless, to people accustomed to the hill-tops of Palestine, often bleak and waterless, the change to the rich plain, the shady groves, the water- springs, tanks and fountains of
CHAP, vii.] JERICHO OF HEROD. lo5
Jericho, must have been delightful. In the later days of the Jews, Herod the Great began adorning this place, as he had adorned many other places, with splendid architecture. His son and successor, Archelaus, continued the work. The ground was covered with palaces, villas and gardens. The wealthy residents could hardly have stayed here ail the year round, for the heat at this low level, right underneath the hills scorched by the sunshine, must have been intense ; though some relief may have been afforded by currents of air moving up and down the Jordan valley to or from the Dead Sea. This, then, is the Jericho repeatedly mentioned m the New Testament, where Our Lord sojourned, laboured and taught. The renowned site is now strewn with remains so shattered, splintered and battered, that they can hai'dly be called ruins in any distinguishable shape. But the minute fragments are numerous enough to reward antiquarian research.
The ordinary route fi-om Jerusalem to Jericho and the Jordan meets us here. It descends by the picturesque ravine mentioned in the last Chapter (VI.)- Instead of following the straight line we have been marching by the circuit just described.
No traveller can quit the site of the later Jericho
without calling to mind the terrible story of Herod the
14
106 THE JORDAN AND JERICHO. [chap. vii.
Great. Here was committed the gi'eatest of his many crimes, and here was his last earthly punishment endui'ed. He was jealous of the popularity enjoyed by Aristobulus, the brother of his wife Mariamne, a youth of seventeen, endowed with the noble and engaging qualities of the Maccabean I'ace. So he invites the youth to the palace of Jericho, and there causes him to be drowned. The murder is thus described by Josephus (Antiq. Jews, book xv. eh. iii,).
" As they stood by the fish-ponds, of which there were large ones about the house, they went to cool themselves by bathing, because it was in the midst of a hot day. At first they were only spectators of Herod's servants and acquain- tances as they were swimming ; but after a while the young man, at the instigation of Herod, went into the water among them, while such of Herod's acquaintances as he had appointed to do it, dipped him as he was swimming, and plunged him under water in the dark of the evening, as if it had been done in sport only, nor did they desist till he was entirely suflfocated."
It will be seen, when we reach Samaria, that this crime led to other crimes, and that henceforth Herod's life is a continuous tragedy ending in death at this very Jericho. The particulars are given by Josephus (Antiq., book xvii.
OHAP. vii.] HEBOD'S DEATH-SCENE. 107
ch. vi. and vii.). Herod "makes the Jews assemble in the theatre, and because he could not himself stand he lay upon a couch" to make his last speech to them. As "a fire glowed within him slowly " he " bathed himself in the warm baths at Calirrhoe which runs into the lake called Asphaltitis " (the Dead Sea). Then " he came again to Jericho, where he grew so choleric that it brought him to do all things like a madman." Anon he sends for his sister Salome, and says, " I shall die in a little time, so great are my pains, .... but what principally troubles me is this, that I shall die without being lamented." When faint from pain " he called for an apple and a knife . , . when he had got the knife he looked about and had a mind to stab himself with it, and he had done it had not his cousin held his hand." Receiving an unfavourable report of his son Antipater, " he cried out, beat his head, raised himself on his elbow, and commanded them to kill Antipater, and to do it presently." Then he makes his will, disposing of his kingdom to Archelaus and Herod Antipas. Within five days after the execution of Antipater he dies.
A very short ride now takes us from Jericho the new to Jericho the old. The ori2;inal word survives in Riha, by which name a village is still called.. The Riha of to-day
108 TEE JORDAN AND JERICHO. [chap. vii.
consists of several detached hamlets, and comprises all the remains that can be traced of the ancient Jericho. It is situated in the midst of cultivation ; its lands are densely wooded and permeated by channels of irrigation. Inside the encircling groves, the landscape seems quite fresh to the eye which has been accustomed to the wilderness and the Dead Sea. The vegetation may be rank and coarse, but it is abundant. The trees are neither tall nor out-spreading, but they are evergreen. The garden cultivation is not well ordered, but it is very productive. Water-courses are
branching out in all directions to conduct the water to the fields. Then, amidst the trees and the cottages there stand shapeless mounds in a sort of order wiiich shows that they are not there by chance. Indeed they spring from design, for they are the remains of that Jericho which fell down in the presence of Joshua's army. The stones of the ancient masonry must doubtless have been taken away as materials for the building of other cities. No traces of architecture are now to be seen. Near the mounds is a small Latin monastery, newly finished, where I receive hospitality. The cluster of cottages around it is one of the several hamlets. The huts are numerous indeed, but they ux'e scattered amongst the fields.
CHAP. VII.] JERICHO OF JOSHUA. 109
The channels for irrigation are now seen to be lono'er and larger. Canals brimful are supplying water to these channels as arteries distribute blood amongst the veins. It is, then, important to note the source whence the fertilizing waters are drawn. The quest for this brings us nearer and nearer to the base of the mountain already mentioned. Not far from this base, a reservoir of some size is filled with water from a copious spring, which during all the past ages has bubbled up inexhaustibly from the bowels of the mountain, and has for several thousand years endowed the plain of Jericho with fertility. This is the water which the prophet Elisha blessed. This is the veritable source of that prosperity which made Jericho one of the gardens of the East, and the envy of surrounding nations. It is now called by the natives the Sultan's Fountain. There is another spring called the fountain of Diik, an old Jewish name probably. These, then, are the very fountains which gave life and wealth to a district where important events occurred in the history both of the Old and the New Testament. They are, after the lapse of ages, still copious, and are discharging the same functions for agriculture today as they did four thousand five hundred years ago. In respect of their antiquity, of their historic
HO THE JOED AN AND JERICHO. [chap. vii.
renown, of their present preservation, they are perhaps the most wonderful fountains now existing in the world.
The cultivation dependent on these springs is still rich and varied. But it is distinctly of an inferior character, as compared with that of Scriptural times. It then included most, if not all, of the best products of tropical climes, the choicest fruits, the most valuable garden produce, the finest shrubs, the most useful trees. These products were not only consumed by a Avealthy and luxurious community on the spot, but exported largely to Jerusalem and other hill cities. But the palm, the balsam, the citron, the fig, the olive ot former times have given place to commoner plants.
It has been already mentioned that Mount Quarantania stands up right behind Jericho. This mass of tawny or whitish rock forms a background to the mounds that mark the site of the ancient city. Its scarped sides and reddish-ochre colour contrast with the foliage and verdant gardens near its base. This is the subject of the accom- panying illustration (XV.).
The view is taken in the morning, when the eastern light strikes full upon the mountain. Thus the stratifi- cation of the rock, the rifts, the crevices, the ledges,
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CHAP. VII.] MOUNT QUABANTAXIA. Ill
can be fully observed. When I saw the scene the morning was fine, but dark clouds were gathering behind the summit, and setting off the sun-lit colour of the rocky heights. In the foreground is the vegetation covering the site of Jericho. Seldom in any country is so suitable a contrast of form, of colour, and of natural objects to be seen as that between the vegetation of old Jericho and the rock formations of Mount Quarantaniu. When our gaze is turned towards the details of the mountains, dark spots are perceived, extending in long rows, one row being above another in parallel lines. These are the cave-cells of hermits ; some of the chambers may be natural but many of them have been enlarged by excavation. Advantage has been taken of ledges in the mountain-side to place the cells in rows, so that communication might be had between them. The date of some among the cells must be very ancient, and doubtless many of the Jewish prophets have dwelt in them. Probably some of the greatest prophets men- tioned in Scripture have sojourned there for a time at least. Certainly many saints renowned in Christendom during the middle ages have occupied these caves. The occupation con- tinues in modem times even to this day. The monks and ascetics, who dwell here, are improving the cells by masonry or additional excavation.
112 THE JORDAN AND JERICHO. [chap. vii.
The peculiar name Quarantania immediately attracts atten- tion. It is derived, of course, from the French and Italian words signifying "forty days." Tradition affirms this to have been the place of Our Lord's temptation. This particular belief, probably based on earlier faith, became definite in the time of the Crusades, and has been maintained during the eight succeeding centuries. This is doubtless the reason why the monks and hermits have been, and are still, anxious to spend their days in the caves of the mountain. The accept- ance of the tradition by exact enquirers must depend on the determination of the place where the Baptism occurred. If that place be at some point of the Jordan opposite Jericho, then it is apparent from the language of Scripture that Our Lord went for His temptation to the wilderness in a mountain close by. A survey of the mountains within reach shows that Quarantania is the one most fitted for the holy purpose. Indeed, as the hill ranges actually are, this is the only mountain that would have been perfectly fitting. The prevailing belief seems to be in accordance with this view. But the scene of the Temptation must be sought for elsewhere, if, as some recent authorities are inclined to believe, the Baptism took place at some point higher up the Jordan.
The name, nature and tradition of Quarantania were familiar
OHAP. vii.] FOUNTAINS OF JERICHO. 113
to Milton, who has described them in some stately and sonorous lines.
Thus from its commanding position, its sacred traditions and its intrinsic beauty, Mount Quarantania is to be regarded as one of the mountains best worth seeing in Palestine.
The ascent of the mountain, along its eastern face, as far as its northern shoulder, is now to be undertaken. The bridle-road winding up the spurs and hill sides is not difficult. It has been trodden by man and beast from the earliest ages. It was the line of traffic between the inhabitants of the Jericho valley and the wandering shepherds of the Canaanite uplands. It was used by the soldiers of Joshua for the invasion and conquest of Palestine. Its importance decreased after the building of Jerusalem, for then the principal line began to run from Jericho by the ravine of the Kelt already men- tioned. It is still much traversed, both by the natives and by travellers, and assuredly it is one of the most interesting cross roads in the whole country.
The ancient and famous fountains of the Sultan, already
mentioned as supplying the waters to be spread over the
thirsty lands, and turning barrenness into fertility, is the point
of departure. Soon the other fountain named DAk is passed,
and then the path mounts up the shoulder of Mount Quaran-
15
114 THE JORDAN AND JERICHO. [chap. vii.
tania. Every moment, as we rise higher, the steep scarps, the marking of the strata, the varied hues of the rocks, become more and more perceptible till we seem to look the mountain straight in the face and to note every feature. Then at a convenient spot we turn round, and thus looking back contemplate the landscape that lies far beneath us. This is indeed one of the finest views in all Palestine and some attempt is made to represent it in the accompanying illustra- tion (XVI.).
It is morning time and the sun has mounted not very far above the eastern horizon. The prevailing tints of the sky are blue blended with amber. The mountain range of Moab is in shadow and stands up in violet-grey against the sky. At its feet is the northern end of the Dead Sea catch- ing the sunlight and glistening as a silver sheet. On this side of the salt-water is a long strip of desert land with reddish hues. Then comes the broad belt of sylvan verdure, which girdles Jericho as with a zone of emeralds. In front of this and near to the foreground, though still much below the eye, are the fountain-reservoirs, the chief of which is a small sheet of water in which the sky is mirrored. From these the principal water channels are seen wandering in bright streaks among the over-shadowing woods. The lofty pedestal,
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CHAP. VII.] PLAIN OF JERICHO. 116
on which we stand, is formed by the red rocks of Quaran- tania.
From this standpoint, Robinson thus wrote in 1841 {Biblical Researches, vol. ii.) : —
"We here have our last and most splendid view of the plain of Jericho. It is one of the richest in the world."
116
CHAPTER VIII.
THE CENTRAL RIDGE OF PALESTINE,
Exteut of the Central Ridge. — Its physical character — Its ravines and passes. — Its rock formations. — Its vegetation. — Loss of its forests. — Its animals, wild and tame. — Its landscape. — Its inhabitants. — Their primaeval descent. — The preservation of their manners and customs without change. — Their social condition. — Their religion. — Their aspect and demeanour. — State of the country.
Ascending from Jericho, over the shoulder of Mount Quaran- tania, as already described, we regain the uplands of Palestine and touch the heart of Judaea in the mountains of Benjamin. Our line of march is to pass along the very backbone of the Holy Land, or what geographers would call the dorsal ridge. This most important ridge begins in the south from Beersheba, and gradually rises, broadening as it proceeds due northwards. Each step in its northerly course is marked by some place of supi-eme interest. We may follow it from Beersheba northwards to Hebron, to Bethlehem, and to
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CHAP, vm.] MIDDLE RANGE OF MOUNTAINS. 117
Jerusalem. We pursue its line from the Holy City to Bethel, to Shiloh, to Samaria, and, lastly, to Bngannim (Janin), on the southern edge of the Esdraelon plain. Its general character is varied by several summits of the utmost importance, as Olivet, Mizpeh, Ephraim, Gerizim, Ebal. Its average height is about 2,500 feet above the level of the Mediterranean, but its summits rise to 3,500 feet. Its region comprises the heritage of Judah, Benjamin, Ephraim, and Manasseh. It may be likened to a trunk line from Beersheba to Engannim ; but fi-om the heights above Engannim it breaks off into two branches. The branch on the left, by far the longest and largest of the two, has a north-westerly direction, and ends in the sea-girt promontory of Carmel. The other, or lesser, branch takes an easterly direction and ends in Gilboa.
The subjoined sketch-map will indicate what may be termed the oi'ography of this Central Ridge from Beersheba to Engannim, and thence to Carmel. On it is traced the route which we have been following, inclusive of detours, for several marches past, and which we are about to follow for several marches more.
The altitudes are always given in reference to the Mediterranean, owing to the peculiarity of this level. It has
118 THE CENTRAL RIDGE OF PALESTINE, [chap. viii.
been said in Chai^ter IV. that Olivet is 2,700 feet above the Mediterranean, but is nearly 4,000 feet above the Dead Sea. Again, Tell-Asur (Baal - Hazor of 2 Samuel) is 3,376 feet above the Mediterranean, Ebal 3,076, and Gerizim 2,848 feet. But to these altitudes about 800 feet, perhaps even more, must be added to indicate their height above the Jordan valley. Consequently the Central Ridge has a more imposing aspect when viewed from the east than from the west. Again, the intervening hollow lends a fine atmospheric effect to the trans-Jordanic mountains as beheld from the ridge.
Upon this ridge were the early resting-places of Abraham during his nomad life, the grazing grounds and pastoral settlements of Isaac, and the first purchase of land by Jacob fi'om the aboriginal inhabitants. These heights arrested the vapours rising from the Mediterranean, and condensed them into the snows of winter, or into the early and late rains in due season. Here, by nature's process, were gathered and stored those supplies of moisture, which furnish resources for men and animals, in a chmate generally hot and a region too often dry. Here, then, were the delicious pasturage, the cool retreats, the flocks and herds, the cattle on a thousand hiUs. Here was formed the character of the Jews as a conquering and governing race, that persistent and persevering temper
CHAP, viii.] PASSES EAST AND WEST. ng
which has stood the test of ages. Here were employed that skill and capital which formed the higher departments of Jewish husbandry, and which covered the hill-sides with garden culture.
We must recollect that this ridge, bordering on the deep hollow of the Jordan eastwards and on the Mediterranean coast westwards, does not give a source to any river, and hardly to any brook of consequence. Kedron is its only streamlet of renown. But on both its sides it has sevei'al passes of the utmost importance, some leading down to the Jordan, others to the sea-coast. From Hebron there is one pass by which Abraham used to proceed to Sodom and Gomorrah ; another in an opposite direction towards the settlements of the Philistines. From Bethlehem there is the frequented pathway through the wilderness of Judaea to the Dead Sea. From Jerusalem there is the route through Ajalon to Joppa, the only establishment which the Jews had on the sea-shore, and the defile descending to Jericho. From Bethel is the pass on the one side down to GUgal, by which Joshua more than once marched up to victory, and on the other side the pass to the plain, by Bethoron, famous in Jewish history from the era of the Judges to the days of the Maccabees. From Shechem, at the foot of Gerizim, there is
120 THE CENTRAL RIDGE OF PALESTINE, [chap. viii.
on one hand the pass down to the Jordan on the way to the Jordan ford, opposite Ramoth Gilead ; and on the other hand to the lovely vale wending from Neapolis (NabuKis) towards the coast at Caesarea.
The rock formations of the ridge are chiefly limestone. In some places the limestone is crystalline, and in others nummulitic. On Gerizim the limestone is full of nummulites (Oonder). Near Gilboa and in parts of Carmel, around Jerusalem, and in the wilderness of Judaea, are chalk for- mations.
Regarding the vegetation, Conder {Handbook to the Bible) well observes : " The trees mentioned in the Old Testament are, without exception, still found in Palestine."
The oaks that sheltered the patriarchs and their tents are of three kinds. The famous terebinth (pistachio) can still show individual trees of remarkable beauty. The acacia, or Shittim, which supplied wood for the Tabernacle, is common to this day. The juniper, under which the prophet rested, is the Retem broom (genista), and is reported as lighting up the desert with white blossoms. The locust tree, the pods of which are believed to have been the husks eaten by the prodigal, is often found. The balm of Gilead and Engedi is identified with the Zakkum, from the berries of which a
CHAP, viii.] VEGETATION, ANCIENT AND MODERN. 121
healing oil is extracted ; and the camphire of the Can- ticle with the Henna, whence pink dye is obtained for personal adornment (Conder). Other trees, as the sycamore, the ash, the plane, the elder, the hawthorn, the arbutus, the tamarisk, may be mentioned. But now-a-days these trees are not found in their pristine abundance. They are only seen singly here and there, or in scattered and scanty groups. Though the people are sparing of wood in building their houses, they have used it for fuel without stint during thousands of years. There never has been, and is not yet, any attempt at forest conservancy ; consequently, the con- sumption has long out-stripped the supply. Thus the mountains, valleys and plains have in time become denuded of the sylvan vegetation with which Nature had originally clothed them. Adverting to the woods, Conder (Handbook to the Bible) truly says : — " The annual destruction of trees for fire-wood threatens in time to reduce these to the same condition with the ancient forests near Jafia, which now consists only of low bushes springing from the roots of former timber-trees."
Even this is within the truth, for I heard that even the roots of trees are being often dug out for fuel, so that
in many places the last remnants will be extirpated. Forest
16
122 THE CENTRAL RIDGE OF PALESTINE, [chap. viii.
conservancy, however late, might still effect much ; but the Turkish authorities are not likely to undertake it. In the continued absence of precaution, the condition of the country and of the climate must deteriorate.
Originally the climate of the Central Ridge must have been delightful and salubrious. It is not so esteemed by travellers in these times. But that is OAving to decay, neglect, and partial desolation. It is, in part, also attributable to the injury caused by the improvident use of forest and undergrowth without any arrangement for preservation or reproduction.
The wild flowers of Palestine are mentioned with admira- tion by travellers in the spring season. The " lily of the valleys" is thought to be the blue iris. I am not, however, so fortunate as to see much of this natural beauty, like which " Solomon in all his glory was not arrayed." The season was too early for the flowers, with one exception, namely, the red anemone, which was beginning to bloom amidst the herbage, and was an ornament in every foreground.
Of the animals mentioned in the Bible, the wild bull, the unicorn, identified with a species of wild ox, the lion and the bear, are extinct. The ibex, or wild goat, the hart, the roebuck, the wild boar, the leopard (cheetah).
CHAP. III.] ANIMAL LIFE.
123
the hyana, the wolf, the jackal (called the tox), are all
existing.
The nighthigale is heard in the Jordan thickets, other- wise song-birds are rare ; but the birds of prey — eagles, vultures, hawks — are numerous. Several species of doves are now existing. The note of the owl is heard in the olive- groves. Many game - birds — the partridge, quail, woodcock, plover, and others — ai'e found in abundance.
The grasshoppers are so abundant as to be roasted for food. The locusts sometimes appear in devastating swarms. The wild honey is hardly to be identified ; but the honey- bee is reared in mud hives.
Though the scriptural phrase, "the cattle upon a thousand hills," is scarcely applicable to the Centx-al Ridge of to-day, yet flocks and herds are in sufficient abundance. The pasturage and herbage, however, which greeted the eyes ol Joshua and his host, has been grievously affected by the loss of the forests.
Respecting pictorial eiJ'ect, the scenery is suggestive and characteristic, rather than beautiful. That loveliness of Nature, which in other climes has excited terrestrial worship, and inspired the human mind with fanciful and fabulous notions, is hardly to be seen here. Some tx'avellers, keeping, perhaps,
124 THE CENTRAL RIDGE OF PALESTINE, [chap. viii.
a special standard of comparison in their thoughts, have been much disappointed. Allowance must be made for the mono- tony shed over even the boldest scenery by the glare of a midday sun in the East. The quality of this scenery can be estimated only in the mornings and evenings, when the shadows are long and the lights are effective from being- limited. Some artistic authorities, too, have deemed the scenery to be lovely in itself irrespective of its associations. Certainly, in or about this Central Ridge, our journey intro- duced us to at least six views which, besides all other considerations, are very fine pictorially. Of these views, three — namely, that from the summit of Olivet, that of the Dead Sea from the wildei'ness of Judaea, and that from the height over Jericho — have been already described. The remaining three will be described in the succeeding chapters. The Land itself holds a place so peculiar, that we may be apt to overlook the people who now dwell there. By observing them, however, the student is better able to under- stand the expressions, metaphors and allusions in the Bible. They have, indeed, few national traits, and little of political life or tribal organization. But they have something like self-government in their villages under the local patriarch or Shekh. They cling to customs and manners
CHAP. VIII.] NATIONALITIES, OLD AND NEW. 125
existing immutably from Biblical times. They are the veri- table descendants of the Canaanites described in tlie Bible, of tlie Jebusites and of the Amorites. Originally they must have had a decided character of their own and a settled form of society. Their system may have been broken up by the Jewish conquest; but, as the students of Bible history will well remember, they never yielded to Jewish influence. On the contraiy, they often made their influence disastrously felt by the Jewish nationality. Though much vexed by the Greek conqueror, perhaps by the Roman also, they held their own at least. They were probably not converted in any large numbers during the early days of Christianity, In short they preserved their ancient idolatry up to the days of Mahomet. Then they wei'e converted by the Arab soldiery to the faith of Islam, about twelve hundred years ago. In that faith they have remained to this day. Perhaps when the Crusading host swept over the Land, they may have partially accepted Christianity. If they did, however, they went back to Islam when the Crusaders' rule was finally broken by the Saracens in the thirteenth cen- tury. They perhaps join some of their ancient rites and obser- vances to their practice of the Muhammadan faith. But ordinarily they appear to be Muhammadans, simply following
126 THE CENTRAL BIDGE OF PALESTINE, [chap. viii.
the religious rules and regulations of their masters the Turks. They look to the Sultan at Constantinople as the head of their religion and of their political constitution. They have a Muhammadan priesthood indeed, and a wandering ascetic class. They venerate many of the places most sacred to Christians. They cherish the memory of Biblical Prophets, Joshua, Samuel, Elijah, Jeremiah, Ezekiel. They display fanaticism occasionally, but as a rule they are quiet and forbearing.
Their deportment is sedate, reserved, stubborn ; such as is natural with a hardy race that has suffered, endured, resisted, for many ages. They told the Exploration Surveyors that there is no room in their hearts for mirth. Their complexion is dark as that of Asiatics dwelling in tropical heat, but not so dusky as that of the Arabians, or of the Bedouins beyond the Jordan. Their cloaks, mantles and blankets, their head-dress, waist-bands and sandals, are the same as those which have been worn in the East from the remotest times. But within this generic description, several variations of physique and costume will be found.
They cultivate the soil, chiefly as peasant proprietors, directly under the Turkish official who collects the land-tax. They have extensive rights of grazmg and pasturage, on all
CHAP, viii.] PASTORAL RACES. 127
which the}' pay their dues to the Turk. They are called Fell&hin (the plural of Fellslh), and thus they bear the same name as their fellow-subjects in Egypt. They till their fields and pay taxes to the Turk patiently, just as they did to the Saracen, to the Arab, to the Roman, to the Greek, to the Persian, to the Assyrian — probably also as they did to the Jew. After the Jewish conquest they must often have become tenants of their lands under the Jew as landlord. They probably performed the labour in the fields, even if the Jew worked in the vineyard and the orchard.
Modern i-esearch is much indebted to the retentive memories and unfailing traditions of the shepherds and herds- men, who have kept alive fi'om mouth to mouth for thou- sands of years the names of Scriptural Sites, thus afFordinp- the means of identification. Where native Cliristians dwell, as in Bethlehem and Nazareth, progress and vivacity are perceptible. Otherwise the state of the country is such as must be expected under a Rule which, though much improved of late, has been very depressing and restrictive. But this is not the place for discussing the chax'acter of the Turkish administration.
128
CHAPTER IX
BETHEL.
Territory of Benjamin. — The Rock Rimmon. — Michmasli. — Ai of Joshua. — First sight of Bethel. — Patriarchal encampment. — Present village on Bethel site. — My camp there and arrangements for march. — Views near Bethtl. — Ophrah. — Last glimpse of Jerusalem. — Gibeon. — Joshua's victory over the Allied Tribes. — Mount Mizpeli. — The Prophet Samuel. — Gibeah and Geba. — Isaiah's description. — Valley of Bethoron. — Victories of Judas Maccabseus. — His death. — The Kingdom under Saul.
As already explained, we enter the hills of Judsea after passing round the shoulder of Mount Quarantania. The path runs through the heritage of Benjamin. The territory is small and poor compared with the territories allotted to the other tribes of Israel. But it is wild and rocky, abounding in strategic positions and forming what soldiers call a strong country. It doubtless tended to confirm those heroic and enterprising qualities for which the tribe is noted, and which were indicated by the Patriarch's prophecy that
CHAP. IX.] HERITAGE OF BENJAMIN. 129
Benjamin should "ravin like a wolf." Occasionally caverns are seen, where armed men used to lie in wait, or where fugitives would take refuge during the political storms that swept over the Jewish nation. Our course is to the west, towards the Central Ridge or backbone of Palestine described in the last chapter. The scenery then becomes bolder and bolder every mile, until the eye finds little to rest upon save the light grey rocks. On the right is seen an abrupt hill-top known as " the rock Rimmon " where the men of Benjamin, flying from the wrath of Israel at large, held their own with much hardihood. Then, near the present village of Makhmas, are seen some massive remains of the Scriptural Michmash, the scene of the romantic and successful enterprise of Jonathan and his armour-bearer against the Philis- tines. Michmash was one of the military positions com- manding the principal pass eastwards from the central ridge of Palestine to the Jordan valley. The defeat of the Philistines there, through the prowess of Jonathan, led to the consolidation of Saul's Kingdom.
Then a still more interesting position comes in sight, namely, the Ai of Joshua (also written Aiath). Dismounting, we leave our horses with the peasants in a hamlet, and climb a
steep conical hill, the sides of which are strewn with cut stones,
]7
130 BETHEL. [chap. ix.
while the top is covered with the remains of an ancient citadel. The hand of the destroyer and the storms of ages have effaced all traces of the walls and towers. Evidently there must have been a fortress, small in extent, but strongly built with stone masonry. Standing on the highest stone in the shapeless mass, the spectator sees that the position was protected on several sides by deep ravines, especially on the north and the west. Joshua, with his little army, must have ascended from the Jordan valley by the same route as that which we have been following. On his first attempt, by a direct attack against a position so well defended as this, he was beaten back with heavy loss. On the second attempt, which was made with some stratagem, he succeeded. His movements, as set forth in Scripture, can be understood exactly by a student on the spot. In front is the northern height across the deep ravine from which he made his feigned attack. On the west is the ravine where he planted the ambush by which the place was taken. Though he reduced the fortifications to a mere heap — long known as Et-Tel, or The Heap — the town and citadel were rebuilt, and are mentioned more than once in the later history of the Jews.
From this height the northern hills of Benjamin come
CHAP. IX.] STONY BEIDLE-PATH. 131
into view, consisting mainly of grey limestone, and forming the most defensible part of Palestine. This, the natural home of the brave, was fitted to brace the energies of its inhabi- tants and sure to become the scene of valorous enterprise. The rocky crests, uplifted against the sky, have an abruptness hardly equalled in any of the districts to which our journey extends. Here the Jews often took refuge in times of trouble. Descending from Ai, we rejoin the path to Bethel. In a short time the head of the pass is reached. The sloping sides are stre^vn profusely with heavy boulders of a rounded shape and of a whitish colour. Among these are scattered great slabs of simUar hue. As the evening draws near, these pale rocks are in a very sombre shade; for, in our front, as we look westwards, the Central Ridge stretches across the view, and flings its long shadows in our direction and over all objects between itself and us. Behind it is the evening sky, bright as usual, while dark clouds are gathering overhead. The long line of the ridge, standmg out dark against the sky, is broken in the middle by an old tower. This is the remnant of a chapel built by the Crusaders over the probable site of Abraham's encampment and Jacob's dream. Such is our first sight of Bethel. Besides its intrinsic importance, the view is strikingly picturesque, and
132 BETHEL. [chap. ix.
the wayfarer may well pause while the recollections, which the name of Bethel summons up, are crowding on his mind.
This, then, is the subject of the accompanying illustra- tion (XVII.) which shows the ridge of Bethel running across the picture from right to left. The dark line is strongly traced against the golden sky. The little tower in the middle marks the Patriarch's encampment. The foregi'ound of cold grey rocks is in shadow.
It is on the eastern side that the stony character of Bethel is best understood. On the other sides cultivation and habitation are mixed up with the rock. But here is nothing save the countless boulders of huge size, flung over the hill-slopes in magnificent confusion. Here, then, is felt the force of the beautiful lines —
" Out of my stony griefs Bethel I '11 raise."
Threading our way through the boulders, we reach the ridge — the true backbone of Palestine — at a point where the geographical formation is well comprehended and the watei*- parting is fully perceived. As the rain descends near the
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CHAP. IX.] PATRIARCHAL CAMPING-GROUND. 133
base of the tower on the site of the Patriarch's encampment, those drops which fall on the east side of the line flow towards the Jordan, and those on the west side towards the Mediterranean.
Along the Central Ridge, too, there is no point to equal this in respect of historical memories drawn from the Old Testament.
From the tower on the ridge the distance to the village is short. The name of this village — Beitin — is in some way a corruption of the sacred name Bethel. A collection of houses and cottages stands on the site of Luz, which was the name of the city, while Bethel was the name of the sanctuary close by. The village is on the west of the Central Ridge. The aspect of its streets and alleys is not attractive, and the bearing of its inhabitants is not quite so respectful as usual in Palestine. Adjacent to it is the water- spring close to the area of an ancient cistern of stone masonry. Like other historic springs in the Holy Land, it changes not, and survives to mark the place where monarchies rose or sank, and where nations were made or un-made.
Wilson {Lands of the Bible, 1847) writes: — "The ruins of Bethel . . . consist of numerous foundations and broken
134 BETHEL. [chap. ix.
walls of no great height. . . . Among the enclosures may be the remains of churches or public buildings."
The town was a frontier fortress after the separation of the kingdoms of Judah and Israel. It was taken and re-taken by the rival kings. It was visited by Elijah and Elisha. In it some true believers remained even under the Assyrian rule. Subsequently Josephus (Antiq., book xiii. chapter 1) writes of Bethel that Bacchides "built towers in it and encompassed it with strong walls " to subdue the Maccabees.
The camping-ground here is on a damp, sometimes even wet, plot of green ground, close to the ancient water-springs. The guides regard it as one of the worst halting-places in Palestine. However, after the long and rough ascent from Jericho, I was glad to see my little camp of two small tents pitched here, and to find that my servants and baggage, together with fresh horses, had arrived by the direct route from Jerusalem. I here parted regretfully with my little grey horse of Moabite breed, that had carried me charmingly round the wilderness of Judaea and the Dead Sea. For him was substituted