ir •E MRS. BEETON'S BOOK OF HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT FISH* ,.-Red Mullet. ^.-Grayling. 3.-John 6.-Whiting. 7.— Salmon. 8.— Herring. 9- 12.— Crayfish. MRS. BEETON'S BOOK OF HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT A GUIDE TO COOKERY IN ALL BRANCHES DAILY DUTIES MAK1V, MISTRESS A SERVANT HOME DOCTOR HOSTESS & GUEST SICK NURSING MARKETING THE NURSERY TRUSSING & CARVING HOME LAWYER NEW EDITION REVISED. ENLARGED. BROUGHT UP TO DATE. AND FULLY ILLUSTRATED LONDON WARD, LOCK 6- CO., LIMITED, WARWICK HOUSE, SALISBURY SQUARE, E.G. 1907 O- ^Ljt~4L^u,^t^L £.°^."*^ ' :f> \ 3^?r f~Jt~-s -zfc* -^ZC_ £,^/ '-5UV.M J £*~ S*p^*\^ /M PRKFACE TO MAY KPITION f a century Mrs. Beeton has beer, and friend of cou: ::t " has : a bride .1 thousands of ^ useful gift of all. Many comj>etitors com- the utmost Imi . as of old, ! I'iv^ and put or romance of do recorded its constant rescue of young housekeep* •: and \v«.o. Sir Art: entitl usekeeper in : : most com fort - ;o concludes, that " this book has me : to thi -ich thai " — a wonderful t when one thus pr.: than 80,000 s .n. The bcKik of Household Mana^ ifl not, h( thai Mrs. Bccton IK •ion of o -cl by Cham unalt much ha- oarance of 1 necessa: 6 brought and i: vi PREFACE TO NEW EDITION to public notice has twice the number of pages and is four times the size of its i. jdest ancestor. » It may seem strange that a book, originally considered most com- prehensive and complete, should have needed such transformation. The world, however, has travelled of late at electric speed, and the far-reaching changes of time have touched household affairs from standpoints apparently far remote. In cookery, for example, where the growth of our pages is most notice- able, many causes have contributed to change. We have relinquished almost entirely the old British prejudices against things foreign, and adopted, in great measure, those French methods which established a bond of union among good cooks all the world over, long before I' entente cordiale became a recognized newspaper phrase. Increased habits of travel have taught us the^ favourite dishes of other countries, while improved means of transport have brought to our doors fresh food supplies from all quarters of the earth. Cookery schools and classes have also educated many mistresses to the possibilities of the art, and encouraged them to insist on more variety and delicacy in their daily fare than the plain cook of old was wont to furnish. In short, every tendency of modern life, with greater wealth possibly — greater luxury certainly — is towards a tremendous enlargement of everyday cookery. In the present issue is given all information necessary to meet present- day demands in this respect. Amongst the principal features of our mnv issue are — APPEARANCE. — The book has been re-composed throughout from a special fount of new type, of size and clearness to suit modern re- quirements, and. printed on the best English paper, and strongly and artistically bound in half leather. ILLUSTRATIONS. — The book has been copiously illustrated in the most useful manner. Hundreds of photographic reproductions of ^actual dishes, processes, and materials have been included. No ex- pense, however great, has been spared in obtaining the best possible results. The numerous coloured plates have been faithfully reproduced from nature, and printed in fourteen colours in the highest style of lithographic art. COOKERY. — All the old cookery recipes have been carefully re-test' -d and prices and details altered wherever necessary. More than two thousand new recipes are given, contributed by Mr. C. Hen. PREFACE TO NEW EDITION vii assisted by some of the most famous cheis and teachers of the art that the world contains. PRICES. — The cost of the recipes and the prices of articles mem. in this book have been most carefully, minutely, and diligently a\ vraged from lists compiled from the most reliable authorities all over the k dom. The task of estimating these prices has been among the most difficult and perplexing problems encountered in revising tl. Some provisions fluctuate greatly in price from day to i very great difference indeed exists between the cost of purchases n. in town or country, for cash or for credit, by mistress or by maid, seK personally or as allotted to you to suit the convenience of a tradesman. er a most minute consideration of the factors involved, we tx i the costs given in our recipes should hardly ever be exceeded the housewife who gives the trouble needed to buy in the most advan- tageous manner, will often be able to effect a very considerabl on the prices quoted. .. — This, a frequent difficulty in small households, has carefully explained and illustrated by numerous photographs, shov methods of the best professionals. CARVING. — Our .mentors held a practical knowledge of this art indispensable to the education of every gentleman* We moderns also realize how much a really good carver can do towards waste, distributing choice portions equally, and n ig the sightly appearance of a joint. The art has been thoroughly dealt with and y fully illustrated by a unique series of photographs of the methods of the best profession.il SERVIETTES. — The most recent and popular designs are illustrated, and diagrams given showing clearly ;iade in producing se patter: Coi.' . — This section has been mously increased. Australian, American, Canadian, South African, German and all foreign cookeries, have been comprehend .It with, so that Britons living under other skies may learn how to combine the dishes of their adopted country with those of the M<v land. We at home may also ^ • v in our own menus, and learn i complimentary and characteristic repast when welcoming sts from abroad. viii PREFACE TO NEW EDITION VEGETARIAN COOKERY, which is so strongly believed in and practised by many thousands, has been carefully dealt with. CHAFING DISH AND CASSEROLE COOKERY, now so popular with cooks, and indispensable in Flat life and for all amateur cookery and impromptu meals, is dealt with in a new chapter. THE MEDICAL AND NURSING CHAPTERS have been contributed by two of our most eminent physicians. THE LEGAL MEMORANDA has been contributed by a well-known barrister, author of several standard law books. We take this opportunity of expressing our gratitude to many eminent authorities and great firms for the courtesy, thoroughness, and disinterested zeal with which they have given time, information, facilities, and assistance to us, whilst engaged in our long, laborious, but engrossing task of compressing all information of practical value to our readers into the new " Mrs. Beeton." It would be out of place in a preface to allude to all the many features of our new issue. Many are there, and all the old Mrs. Beeton as well. For details, and also because it is easy in a book of this size to look for information in the wrong place, we would ask our readers to make use of the very comprehensive index and tables of contents furnished here- with. All these new features have had one disastrous effect from the pub- lishers' point of view. The book as- it now stands is half as large again as the previous edition, and is offered at the same price. We believe this to be by far the greatest value for money ever given in book pro- duction. We can only trust that this new and enlarged edition o MRS. BEETON' S HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT will meet with the same 'hearty welcome its old and well-tried predecessors have alway enjoyed. WARWICK HOUSE, SALISBURY SQUARE, E.G. 1906. ABRIDGED PREFACE TO THE FIRST EDIT1' ; i frankly own that, if I had known beforehand the labour which this book has entailed, I should never have been courageous enough to •no- it. What moved me, in the first instance, to attempt a work 1 A as the discomfort and suffering which I had seen brought about by household mis-management. I have always thought that there is no more fruitful source of family discontent than badly-cooked : s and untidy ways. Men are now so well served out of doors — l>s, hotels and restaurants — that, to compete with the attra se places, a mistress must be thoroughly acquainted with the theory and practice of cookery, as well as all the other arts of making and keeping a comfortable home. I n tins book I have attempted to give, in the chapters devoted to cook- ery, an intelligible arrangement to every recipe, a list of the tngrtdienti, i the met icparing each dish, and a careful number of pfoptf for whom sufficient t and the time when seasonable. Friends in England, Scotland. Ireland, France and Germany have very materially aided me. . < nt comparison \\ith the works :-est modern writers on cookery has also been necessary to the faithful i isk. But in the depai belonging to the Cook I have » make my work something more than a Cookery-Book, and have, therefore, given a short account of the .«• animals and vegetables which we use as food. I have followed the animals from their birth to their appearance on the table ; have described their manage n lie various methods of carving Meat. .md Game. :^ have designed the numerous drawings which illustrate ma: port ant and interesting items. The coloured plates are a novel t due. 2 PREFACE Towards the end of the work will be found valuable chapters on the " Management of Children," " The Doctor," " Legal Memoranda," which have been contributed by a great physician and an eminent solicitor. I wish here to acknowledge the kind letters and congratula- tions I have received during the progress of this work, and have only further to add, that I trust the result of the four years' incessant labour which I have expended will not be altogether unacceptable to some of my countrymen and countrywomen. 248, Strand, 1861. ISABELLA BEETON. GENERAL CONTENTS CHAP. I II III IV V \ I Yll VIII I \ Mil \l\ \\t \\ 11 \\ III \\VIII XXIX cxn Mil \!V . \\ I CVI1 CEMEATS Tin COOK . MARK >DUCTION TO COOKERY SOUPS .... RECIPES FOR S« SAUCES AND FORCEMEA' KS FOR GRAVI . RECIPES FOR COOKINH; FIMI GENERAL REMARKS ON COOKI GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ox «.> i>s :-ES FOR COOKP r.s FOR COOKING BEEF . RECIPES FOR COOKING LAMII i*ES FOR COOKING MUTI GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ox THE CO&IM RECIPES FOR COOKING PORK i RY. .... r.s FOR CV GAM >K COOKING GAME r.s FOR COOKING HARE AND RABBIT NED AND PRESERVED FOODS XED AND PRESERVED FOODS i OR COOKING VEC.I i<\ MAK;- Prin PAGE 9 32 37 43 82 103 ALAD DRI 559 661 669 799 812 «79 GENERAL CONTENTS CHAP. PAGE XXXIX THE ART OF CARVING AT TABLE . . . .1258 XL FARINACEOUS PREPARATIONS ..... 1275 XLI MILK, BUTTER, CHEESE AND EGGS . . , .1285 XLII RECIPES FOR MILK, BUTTER, CHEESE AND EGGS . . 1295 XLIII VEGETARIAN COOKERY . 1317 XLIV INVALID COOKERY ....... 1344 XLV RECIPES FOR INVALID COOKERY . . . . .1350 XLVI BREAD, BISCUITS AND CAKES . . . .. .1388 XLVII RECIPES FOR MAKING BREAD, BISCUITS AND CAKES . 1408 XLVIII GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON BEVERAGES . . . 1465 XLIX RECIPES FOR BEVERAGES 1473 L CHAFING DISH AND CASSEROLE COOKERY . . .1515 LI FRENCH COOKERY ,. . . . . . . 1525 LII GERMAN AND AUSTRIAN COOKERY . . . .1534 LIII ITALIAN COOKERY 1550 LIV SPANISH COOKERY . '. . . . . . . 1568 LV JEWISH COOKERY . . . . . . .1571 LVI AUSTRALIAN COOKERY . . . . , .1579 LVII SOUTH AFRICAN COOKERY ...... 1588 LVIII INDIAN COOKERY ....... 1599 LIX AMERICAN AND CANADIAN COOKERY . . . .1614 LX TRUSSING POULTRY AND GAME ..... 1632 LXI HERBS, CONDIMENTS, AND AUXILIARIES . . . 1638 LXII GLOSSARY OF CULINARY TERMS . . . . . 1652 LXIII ENGLISH AND FRENCH NAMES OF ARTICLES OF FOOD . 1673 LXIV MEALS : THEIR IMPORTANCE AND ARRANGEMENT . . 1676 LXV TABLE DECORATION 1695 LXVI SERVIETTES 1698 LXVII MENU MAKING AND SPECIMEN MENUS . . , .1714 LXVIII DOMESTIC SERVANTS AND THEIR DUTIES . .1761 LXIX HOUSEHOLD RECIPES 1790 LXX THE DOCTOR . ' . . 1820 LXXI THE NURSE . . -1879 LXXII THE NURSERY . .1896 LXXIII HOMOEOPATHIC MEDICINE . . 1925 LXXIV LEGAL MEMORANDA . , 1933 ANALYTICAL INDEX ... . 2007 LIST OF COLOURED PL Ail S FA i.— Red Mullet, Grayling. John Dory, Mackerel. Cod. Whiting, Sain Crayfish - Fn* FRUIT, and Black Cl. hite. Black and Currants, Melon, Strawberries, Raspberries, Plums. Greengages . HOUSEHOLD UTENSILS. — Bread Cutter. Coffee Roaster, Carpet Sweeper. .^er and Mangle, Knife Cleaner, Spice Box . . 80 SOUPS. — Mutton Broth. Pot-au-Feu, Tomato Soup, Kidney Soup. Consonund a la Celestine, Consomm6 a la Royale, Bonne Ft Consomme £ la Julienne. Consomme a la Brunoise . . 120 >, 2. — Cral>. . Mussel, Lemon Sole, Halibut, Prawn. Sturgeon. Tr. Brill. Escallop. Lamprey. Whitebait. Lobster. Dover Sole aOQ , 3. — Oyster Patties. Whiting, Turbot, Whitebait, Mackerel, Mayonnaise mon. Lobster, Crab —Scallops au Gratin. Red Mullet. Turbot, Cod Steak. Fried Sole, Mayon- naise of Salmon, Salmon au Nature!, Brown Trout. Smelt A PRIZE SHORTHORN -Toulouse Pasty. Fillets of Beef. Beef Galantine, Zephires • Mu Aspic, Saute of Veal, Chartreuse of Pheasant, «. ried Veal. Chicken Medallions. Veal Stew t Beef. Boiled Beef. Leg of Mutton. Roast Ribs of Beef OWN WETHER 545 COLLATION DISHES. — Pigeon Pie. Raided Game Pir, Cutlrts .v Prawns en Bouquet, Cret rs' Eggs. Lain)* • Boued Capon . 560 Pork, Roast Haunch of Mutton. Roast Aitchboi it ton. Call's Head. Ham. Sirloin of 1< .. Saddle of Mutton .... 608 BAC. Streaky. Prime Back. Flank. Long urnon. Corner. York Ham, Mil 640 GAME AN: — Snipe, Larks, Roast Pheasant, Roast 1 Fowl. GAME, i. — Cock Wulgeon. Rabt i GAME, 2. -d Pigeon. Woodcock. Cock Wild Duck. Black :pe. Pheasants, Hare. Teal VEGETABLES, i • Potatoes, Spinach. Asparagus. Cauliflown Potato*- :,»«, Peas, French Beans, Stuffed Tom.* 800 VEGETABLES. 2.— Braized Celery. Leeks. Seakale, Brussels S; «1 and Boiled Potatoes, Parsnips. Artichokes, Cabbage, Braized «v» A SUPPER Bur» Room or • . 897 SWEETS.— Pancakes. Rice and Apple Cak« . -ul- din. l-ruits. Sugar Tr: Gateau St. Honore. Simmel Cake 1024 • at Grapes, Tangerines, Bananas, Oranges. Peaches. . SM v and Potato, Macedoine. m. •T, Salad Dumas . II-M 1 heddar. C. f Chicken. let. Mutton Cutlets and (. TABLE i R TABLES WITH BUFFET NER TABLE A LA RUSSF. .... . . {'ABLE — OLD-FASHIONED STYLF ....... MENU AND \RDS LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS v FACING • -.."*.£. PAGE THE KITCHEN . . " . . ,' • , {. ',_... ;' . .32 A ROYAL KITCHEN . . ,. .. o; ,• • 33 STOVES AND COOKING RANGE . . . ^ , ' ;•;. .... 44 COOKING RANGES . . . • •" • • • . . . . 45 GAS COOKING RANGES . . _. ......,! . . . . 52 COOKING, ETC., BY ELECTRIC HEAT ... . . . 53 KITCHEN UTENSILS, i. ROASTING JACK, ETC. . :-> ". ""••»< ... 64 KITCHEN UTENSILS, 2. STOCK POT, ETC. . .... 65 KITCHEN UTENSILS, 3. ICE FREEZER, ETC. ." .,]., .... 72 KITCHEN UTENSILS, 4. CHAFING DISH, ETC ....... 73 KITCHEN UTENSILS, 5. PASTE BOARD AND PIN, F.T\ . . . . 78 HOUSEHOLD REQUISITES ,r '.. , ;vx .. ..* • ' • • . 79 MARKETING GUIDE, i. BULLOCK ; . . 3^ .-. •» ^ . . 82 MARKETING GUIDE, 2. BEEF . . ^v>/ -V ' . . . 83 SHEEP Y: '. '-''' • ' ' V'v' . '. ''.*''".•' l '.'.'. '•/"•.' . •; • • 88 MARKETING GUIDE, 3. SHEEP . . . . . • • . . 89 MARKETING GUIDE, 4. MUTTON . .^- , •.»:*'.. ... 96 MARKETING GUIDE, 5. PORK AND VEAL . - .• •• . , . . . 97 FISH, i. STEAMED SOLE, ETC ......... 296 FISH, 2. FILLETS OF SOLE, ETC. . . ( . .-;- .» > .;: .; &-.-.. . . 297 FISH, 3. BOILED COD, ETC. . . .; j,, ••'••. . . . . 312 FISH, 4. COD STEAK, ETC ..... . . . . .3*3 FISH, 5. EELS IN JELLY, ETC ......... 328 FISH, 6. FISH CAKES, ETC. ......... 329 FISH, 7. RED MULLET, ETC. . . . . . . . . 344 FISH, 8. SOUSED MACKEREL, ETC. . . - . . . . 345 FISH, 9. SALMON CUTLETS, ETC. . . ' . . . . . . 360 FISH, 10. LOBSTER CUTLETS, ETC. . .. "i',?: ..... 361 FISH, u. BOILED TURBOT, ETC. . . . • , . . . . 376 FISH ENTREES. SALMON, T(>RBOT, ETC. . ;* .; ; . . . . . 377 CATTLE . . » - . • ..••:...'• . • • • 432 PIGS . . . . - .' ' ; • i; . ...... 433 ENTREES. MEAT, GRENADINS OF VEAL . . . . . . . 488 ENTREES. COLD CHICKEN AND VEAL TIMBALES ..... 489 ENTREES. FILLETS OF BEEF (PARISENNF) ... . . . . 504 ENTREES. BEEF ROLL, ETC. . . . ..... 505 ENTREES. LAMB CUTLETS, ETC. . , , ... . . . . 576 ENTREES. SUPPER DISHFS , ... ,, : ...... 577 POULTRY . . . . . ....-.-. . . 672 ENTREES. CHICKEN, QUAIL, ETC. . . . . ... . 673 ENTREES. CHICKEN SOUFFL£ . ..... ..... 704 COLD COLLATION ENTREES . . .... . . . . 705 ENTRIES. CHICKEN CUTLETS , , . , , .. . . .744 6 LIST OF II. I I'Si RATIONS FA PAGE IES 745 76o 1 RIED RABBH, LTC. ........ 761 \ i ........... 776 \TS . . - . . • • . 777 FOODS : TINNED AND BOTTLKD ....... 792 >ss, SHALLOTS, ETC. KBLES, 2. Ct CUMBER, CELERY, ETC. ...... 808 . ;v WATER POTATOES, ETC. ....... 809 CARROTS, ETC. ........ 824 BOILED POTATOES, i .... . 825 VEGETABLES, 6. FES, ETC 873 VEGET.V HARICOT BEANS, ETC. ....... 873 .......... 888 889 PLUM PUDDING, ETC. .......... 968 . CANAK\ ........ 969 984 •IIKS .... ..... 985 \PPLE AMBER. ETC. . . . . . . . . 1OOQ SOUFFLES ........... 1001 1016 COLD S ...... 1017 . ... 1032 r*v ...... ... 1033 r . . . . . . . . 1048 . . . 1049 DESSEK: .... 1066 1067 1078 A SUPPER TAHI.I . . 1079 .:..... . i i j.. - . iftlLLED KlPPERS. ETC. .... 1IQ2 . S\v».; ...... iao8 1209 VB ......... 1256 >T! K 1257 .. 3- Sot 1238 CAKVI-. :, SALMON ..... 1259 . K 1262 :IEAD BEIK 1263 CARVING, 7 I266 CARVIN AND LAMB . v AND DUCK . IX, HARE ... .... 1272 8 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS FACING PAGE ENTRIES. MUTTON CUTLETS, ETC. . . . ... . . 1273 Cows . .... . . . . . .1-288 FAIR v BUTTER AND OMELET ......... 1289 CHEESE AND EGG SAVORIES, i . ....... 1304 CHEESE AND EGG SAVORIES, 2 . ....... 1305 BISCUITS, i . . ... . . . . . . . . 1416 BISCUITS, 2 ............ 1417 BREAD ............. 1432 CAKES. COCOANUT, ETC. ......... 1433 FANCY CAKES .......... . 1448 ROLLS AND CAKES ......... . 1449 PIPING, OR FANCY CAKE ICING ........ 1464 BEVERAGES, JELLIES, KTC. ......... 1465 BEVERAGES ............ 1514 EARTHENWARE COOKING UTENSILS ........ 1515 TRUSSING, i. SECTIONS OF FOWL CUT IN HALF ..... 1632 TRUSSING, 2. To DRAW A FOWL . . . . . . . .1633 TRUSSING, 3. FOWL FOR ROASTING ........ 1636 TRUSSING, 4. FOWL FOR BOILING ........ 1637 TRUSSING, 5. POULTRY, GOOSE AND HARE ...... 1640 A DINNER TABLE FOR Six PERSONS ........ 1641 SERVIETTES, i. THE BISHOP . . "" ...... PAGE 1699 SERVIETTES, 2. THE FAN . . . . . . . ... 1700 SERVIETTES, 3. THE BOATS . ,, 1701 SERVIETTES. 4. THE PALM, THE LILY, AND THE CACTUS . . , 1702 SERVIETTES, 5. THE SLIPPER .......,, 1703 SERVIETTES, 6. THE PYRAMID ......... 1704 SERVIETTES, 7. VARIOUS ......... 1704 SERVIETTES, 8. VARIOUS ......... 1705 SERVIETTES, 9. THE ROSE AND THE STAR ..... PAGE 1705 SERVIETTES, 10. THE FLAT SACHET . . . . . . 1706 SERVIETTES, u. THE MITRE . . . 1707 SERVIETTES, 12. THE COCKSCOMB . 1708 SERVIETTES, 13. FLEUR DE Lis VARIETIES ...... 1709 SERVIETTES, 14. THE BOAR'S HEAD . 1710 SERVIETTES, 15. THE SACHET . . • . . . ... 1711 SERVIETTES, 16. THE COLLEGIAN ......... 171 _> SERVIETTES, 17. THE VASE 1713 COURT MENUS, i . . . . . . . . . . 1720 COURT MENUS, 2 . . . . . . . . . .1721 TABLE GLASS 1760 THE BUTLER'S PANTRY 1761 CHINA AND EARTHENWARE, i ......... 1792 CHINA AND EARTHENWARE, 2 ......... i7<).'» A BREAKFAST TABLE ......... 1808 INVALID FURNITURE .......... 1809 NURSING, i ". *. '. . . . . . . . . . 1864 NURSING, 2 " . . . . 1865 NURSING, 3 . ' . . "'.... . . . . . . . 1880 To CHANGE SHEETS . . . .1881 LEMCO Within this jar there is more of the real substance of Beef — and a higher quality of Beef — than in any other Meat Extract jar of equal size. Lemco The only GENUINE LIEBIG COMPANY'S EXTRACT OF BEEF. LEMCO. 4. Lloyd's Avenue. London EC. The Truth about Cocoa is that there is little to choose between Cadbury's absolutely pure Cocoa Essence and milk — so closely are they allied in composition. For this reason is full of nourishment in an easily-digested form. Cadbury's is liquid food of the purest and highest quality, made under ideal conditions of cleanliness and pure surroundings in the Garden Factory at Bournville. To face mailer— Front. THE MISTRESS CHAPTER I The Housewife, Home Virtues, Hospitality, Good Temper, Dress and Fashion, Engaging Domestics, Wages of Servants, Visiting, Visiting Cards, Parties, Etc., Etc. " 5, / honour are her clothing ; and she sliall refoii • •e. She ope nc th her mouth with wisdom ; and in her tongue is the law of kindness. She looketh well to the ways of her household, and wf. the bread of idleness. Her children arise up, and call her blessed ; nsband also, and he praiseth her.1' — Proverbs xxxi. 25-28. The Functions of the Mistress of a House resemble those of the general of an army or the manager of a great business concern. Her spirit will be seen in the whole establishment, and if sh«: duties well and intelligently, her domestics will usually follow in her path. Among the gifts that nature has bestowed * on ink higher than the capacity for domestic management, for the exercise of this faculty constantly affects the happiness, comfort and prosperity of the whole family. In this opinion we are borne out by the author of The Vicar of Wake field, who says : — modest virgin, the prudent wife, and the careful matron are much Me in life than petticoated philosophers, blusi heroines, or virago queans. She who makes her husband an<: children happy is a much greater character than ladies describ -;e whole occupation is to murder mankind with shafts the quiver of their e\ The Housewife. — Although this word may be used to dcs oss of a household, it seems more fittingly applied to nallv ronduct t!:« stic affairs than to ot govern with the assistance of a large staff of well-trained 1 since 1766, \\ h wrote extolling virtues ; and ifl the change more marked than in o ; but ;i woman should not be less careful i; man, her life because the spirit of th- her activities housewives should be encoura'.ed to find time in the midst of domestic cares for the r< social intercourse which are necessary to the well-being of io HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT all. A woman's home should be first and foremost in her life, but if she allow household cares entirely to occupy her thoughts, she is apt to become narrow in her interests and sympathies, a condition not con- ducive to domestic happiness. To some overworked women but little rest or recreation may seem possible, but, generally speaking, the leisure to be enjoyed depends upon proper methods of work, punctuality, and early rising. The object of the present work is to give assistance to those who desire practical advice in the government of their home. Early Rising contributes largely to good Household Management ; she who practises this virtue reaps an ample reward both in health and prosperity. When a mistress is an early riser, it is almost certain that her house will be orderly and well managed. On the contrary, if she remain in bed till a late hour, then the servants, who, as we have observed, invariably acquire some of their mistress's charac- teristics, are likely to become sluggards. To self-indulgence all are more or less disposed,\ajiti it is not to be expected that servants are freer from this fault than the heads of houses. The great Lord Chatham gave this advice : — " I would have inscribed on the curtains of your bed, and the walls of your chamber, ' If you do not rise early, you can make progress in nothing.' " Cleanliness is quite indispensable to Health, and must be studied both in regard to the person and the house, and all that it contains. Cold or tepid baths should be employed every morning. The bathing of children will be treated of under the heads of " The Nurse " and " The Doctor." Many diseases would be less common than they are if the pores of the skin were kept open. Frugality and Economy are Virtues without which no household can prosper. The necessity of economy should be evident to every one, whether in possession of an income barely sufficient for a family's re- quirements, or of a large fortune which seems to put financial adversity out of the question. We must always remember that to manage well on a small income is highly creditable. " He is a good waggoner," says Bishop Hall, " that can turn in a little room. To live well in abundance is the praise of the estate, not of the person. I will study more how to give a good account of my little than how to make it more." In this there is true wisdom, and it may be added that those who can manage small things well are probably fitted for the management of greater. Economy and frugality must never, however, be allowed to degenerate into meanness. A Judicious Choice of Friends is most essential to the happiness of a household. An acquaintance who indulges in scandal about her neighbours should be avoided as a pestilence. While ever attending to the paramount claims of home, a lady should not altogether neglect social duties. The daily round of work is much more pleasant if cheered by intercourse with friends, who are often able to give, or pleased to receive, help in the little difficulties that may occur in everyday life. Another point of view is that most women look forward to some FRUIT. 12 i. — Apricots. 2. — White Cherries. 3. — Black Cherries. 4. — White Currants. 5. — Blac'k Currants. 6.— Red Currants. 7, — Melon. 3. — Strawberries. 9. — Raspberries. io.— Plums (Black Diamonds). n.— Greengages. 12.— Victoria Plums. THE MISTRESS II •heir daughters in society, and in this cherished hope have e for not abstaining too much from social intercourse. One is apt to become narrow-minded by living too much in the home circle ; it is not well to get out of tlv t meeting fresh people, important also that children should have the advantage of mixing with other young people, though of course parents should exercise every precaution against the evils of bad company. Friendships should not be hastily formed, or the heart given to every new- comer. There are women who smile on every chance acquaintance, and who have not the courage to reprove vice or defend virtue. Addison, - that — " A friendship which makt least noise is very often the most useful ; for which reason, I should prefer a prudent friend to a zealous one." The advice Shakespeare makes Polonius give to his son Lacr: thoroughly sound : — iou hast, and their adoption t: :>lc them to thy soul with hoops of steel; do not dull thv ;>.rni \\ r Of e Hospitality should be j : but care must be taken that the love of COK >cs not become a prevailing passion ; such a habit is no 1 and ^iii, <-rity in this, as in all duties of life, should be studied ; i mgton 1: <>n from the i cannot be described, but is i mined • once at his ease." A lady. e first i'llny of a household, should not attempt to tances of her youth. Her true and tried to I*- liglr: and the ii she will in. ;kc l>y likely by moving to a new local her \\itli ample society. In Conversation on n the petty annoy- . ^appointments of the • ny people get into the bad habit of talking imes-antly of the worries of tl m servants an«l children, n«>t • r hearers thes uninteresting it n< -me subjects. From one's own point of well not to start upon a topic without having sut: ledge to discuss it with Important events, whether v or sorrow, should be told to i: apathy or itulation may be welcome. A wife should never allow a word about husband t) pass her lips ; and in conversation, she shouM 1 of Cowper continually in her memory, — i should tlov. n tu rally and not •• As if raised by more mechanic powers." 12 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT The secret of our conversation being entertaining or the reverse consists mainly on our powers of suiting it to the minds of those with whom we are speaking. With some it is necessary to make but little effort for they much prefer to talk themselves, and it is then the duty of the hostess to listen with as much interest as she can command. Other people are shy, and then a good deal of tact is required to find out subjects congenial to them, for there are sure to be some in which they are interested, and it is well for the mis- tress of a household to know a little of the current topics of the day. Cheerfulness. — We cannot too strongly insist on the vital importance of always preserving an equable good temper amidst all the little cares and worries of domestic life. Many women may be heard to declare that men cannot realize the petty anxieties of a household. But a woman must cultivate that tact and forbearance without which no man can hope to succeed in his career. The true woman combines with mere tact that subtle sympathy which makes her the loved companion and friend alike of husband, children and all around her. Stevenson's prayer is worth remembering : " The day returns, and brings us the petty round of irritating concerns and duties. Help us to play the man, help us to perform them with laughter and kind faces, let cheerfulness abound with industry. Give us to go blithely on our business all this day, bring us to our resting beds weary and content and undishonoured, and grant us in the end the gift of sleep." On the Important Subject of Dress and Fashion we cannot do better than quote : " Let people write, talk, lecture, satirize, as they may, it cannot be denied that, whatever is the prevailing mode in attire, let it intrinsically be ever so absurd, it will never look as ridiculous as another, which, however convenient, comfortable, or even becoming is totally opposite in style to that generally worn." A lady's dress should be always suited to her circumstances, and varied for different occasions. The morning dress should be neat and simple, and suitable for the domestic duties that usually occupy the early part of the day. This dress should be changed before calling hours ; but it is not in good taste to wear much jewellery except with evening dress. A lady should always aim at being well and attractively dressed whilst never allowing questions of costume to establish inordinate claims on either time or purse. In purchasing her oWn garments, «after taking account of the important detail of the length of her purse, she should aim at adapting the style of the day in such a manner as best suits the require- ments of her face, figure and complexion, and never allow slavish adherence to temporary fads of fashion to overrule her own sense of what is becoming and befitting. She should also bear in mind that her different costumes have to furnish her with apparel for home wear, outdoor exercise and social functions, and try to allot due relative importance to the claims of each. The advice of Polonius to his son Laertes, in Hamlet, is excellent ; THi: MISTRESS 13 and although given to one of the male sex, will equally apply to the question of a woman's dress : — ily thy habit as thy purse ran l>uy. But not express' d in fancy; rich, not gaudy ; For the apparel oft proci Man. " Charity is a Duty and privilege that we owe to ourselves as well as to our needy neighbours. There is, we hope, hardly any one so poor, but thai with a little thought he can give assistance, in woik- it not in goods, to others. As a poet has sung — " Is thy cruse of comfort -»• and share it with And through all t! ine It shall serve thee and thy brother, the heart grows rich by ^ All its wealth is living ^i Seeds that moulder in the K.I: the plain- Scanty food for one Make a royal feast for t w< >rk, care and time are however necessary if our gifts are to have the best effect. Fortunately, the duty of visiting the poor, whether in crowded city slums or rustic villages, was never more widrlv recognized than at nt time. It should not be necess. urge all who undertake this duty to lay aside any patronizing attitude, which may do untold harm. A heartfelt sense ot honest, self-supporting jxnerty is one of the first essentials in such work. Marketing. Much mtormation for guidance and assi 11 be found in our average price lists in the chap the observations before the cookery sections for Ii , Poultry. it. etc. That the best articles \\ill ii the long run, and that the purchase of low pri» rd and untrustworthy sub hie articles should be avoided, ;>e laid down as fundamental rules for marketing I1 's most l>le that whenever possible ress should herself purchase all stores needed for the home. Should the young v. know -e subjects, a little personal practice soon teach her the best articles to buy and the most reliable places to Accounts of Household Expenditure should always ! punctually and precisely. The best pl.m for ' -ehold accounts is to lown in a daily diai \ .mount, be it ever so small, spent each day ; then. nd of a week or month, let these payments IK- ranged under their various heads of Hi: . etc. Thus tin- amount* paid to rat h : -will b< and any week's or month's expe; \\ith those of another. The housekeeping accounts sh,,ukl be balanced not -once a \ liould be the money in h md . h the account^. ".My ad I4 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT said Mr. Micawbcr to David Copperfield, " you know. Annual in- come twenty pounds, annual expenditure nineteen, nineteen six, result happiness. Annual income twenty pounds, annual expen- diture twenty pounds, ought and six, result misery. The blossom is blighted, the leaf is withered, the God of day goes down upon the dreary scene, and in short you are for ever floored." Once a month it is advisable that the mistress overlook her store of glass and china, marking any breakages on the inventory of these articles. When a housekeeper is entrusted with these duties, the mistress should examine her accounts regularly. Then, any increase of expen- diture can easily be examined, the mistress will have a regular check upon her expenditure, and the housekeeper who strives to manage her department well and economically will know that her efforts are appreciated. Engaging Servants is one of the most important duties the mistress is called upon to perform. One of the commonest ways of procuring servants is to answer advertisements or to insert a notice, setting forth what kind of servant is required. In these advertisements it is well to state whether the house is in town or country, and indicate the wages given. There are many respectable registry-offices, where good servants may be hired. A good plan is for the mistress to tell her friends and acquaintances of the vacant place. A lady whose general relations with her domestics are friendly, and fairly permanent, will seldom need to employ any of these methods. Suitable applicants will soon present themselves to fill the vacant places, generally friends of the domestic who is obliged to leave. We would here point out an error — and a grave one — into which some mistresses fall. They do not, when engaging a servant, tell her all the duties which she will be expected to perform. All the work which the maid will have to do should be plainly set forth by the mistress, and understood by the servant. If this plan is not carefully adhered to, misunderstanding is almost certain to occur, and may not be easily settled. Servants' Character. — It is hardly safe to be guided by a written one from an unknown quarter ; it is better to have an interview, if possible, with the former mistress. In this way you will be helped in your decision as to the fitness of the servant by the appearance of her former place. No mistress desires a needless change of servants. The proper way to obtain a personal interview with a servant's former employer is to tell the applicant for the situation to ask her former mistress to appoint a convenient time when you may call on her ; this courtesy being necessary to prevent any unseasonable intrusion on the part of a stranger. Your first questions should be relative to the honesty and general morality of the servant ; and if the replies are satisfactory, her other qualifications are then to be ascertained. Inquiries should be very minute, so that you may avcid disappointment and trouble, THE MISTRESS 15 by knowing the v.-eak points of your domestic. Your questions also should be brief, as well as to the point. In giving a Character, it is scarcely necessary to say that one should ;ided by a sense of strict justice. It is not right to recommend a servant one would not keep oneself. The benefit to the servant herself is of small advantage, for the failings which she possesses will increase if indulged with impunity. At the same time, a mistress should never fail to do strict and impartial justice to any merits of her late servant, and should always remember the vital value of good references to one who depends on her labour for a living. The Treatment of Servants is of the greatest importance to both mistress and domestics. If the latter perceive that their mistress's conduct is regulated by high and correct principles, they will not fail to respect her ; and if a real desire is shown to promote their comfort, while at the same time a steady performance of their duty is exacted, then well-principled servants will be anxious to earn approval, and their respect will not be unmingled with affection. A lady should never allow herself to forget the important duty of watching over the moral and physical welfare of those beneath her roof. Without seeming unduly inquisitive, she can ah n sometlr their acquaintances and holiday occupation, and should, when ; sary, warn them against the dangers and evils of bad company. An hour should be fixed, usually 10 or 9 p.m., after which no servant should be allowed to stay out. To permit breaches of this rule, without having good and explicit reasons furnish r from being a kindness to the servant concerned. The moral responsibility for evil that may result rests largely on the employer who permits late hours. Especial care is needed with young girls. They should be given opportunities Icoming respectable triends at their employer's house, and not be forced by absence of such provision for their comfort to spend their time out of doors, often in driving rain, j^ossibly in bad company. Wages of Servants. — The following Table of the average yearly v. paid to doi ite the expenditure of an estab- lishment. The amounts givm will, of course, vary according to ex- perience and localit . supply and demand. No Table could possibly be given which would not be subject to alteration under special circumstances, but taken as a Average these payments v.Hl he appropriate and form as reliable a guide as could possibly be given. In most establishments such men-servants as coachman, foot- man, and page, are provided with livery by their employers. This does not affect the question of wages. Whilst writing on this subje- t. we would warn the youiu; uite not to let mistaken notions of economv make her lose, for the sake of saving a t title in wage>. the services of a trusted and efficient domestic. The diitei \pcnse b< >od and bad servants in a house can only be learned by expei ienre. A really good servant can save her i6 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT employers far more than her wages and keep amount to, a bad one would be a poor bargain if she gave her services for nothing. MEN SERVANTS. House Steward . ''• From £60 to £100 Groom of the Chambers , £45 ,, £55 Valet : , £35 „ £50 Cook ,, £100 Head Gardener (not in the house) ... „ £70 to £120 Under Gardener „ £40 „ £45 Butler „ £55 „ £90 Under Butler „ £35 „ £45 Footman , £18 „ £40 Under Footman „ £18 „ £34 Second Footman . , £18 „ £34 Coachman „ £40 „ £70 Coachman (not in the liou'-e) „ £70 „ £90 Groom . .'.''. . .. £25 ,, £35 Under Groom „ £18 ,, £25 Page . . „ ... •.. , . „ £12 „ £18 Stable Boy , £6 „ £12 Servants' Hall Boy ,. £6 „ £12 Steward's Boy „ £8 „ £15 Head Gamekeeper , . . ,, £100 „ £1.^0 Under Gamekeeper „ £50 „ £7° WOMFN SFRVANTS Everything found, or an allowance tor the same. Housekeeper From £30 to £60 Lady's Maid „ £25 „ £40 Cook „ £20 „ £60 Kitchen Maid „ £16 „ £28 Scullery Maid „ £14 „ £18 Still-room Maid „ £18 „ £28 Head Nurse , £25 „ £35 Under Nurse . , £12 „ £18 Head Laundry Maid j , £22 „ £30 Under Laundry Maid , £12 „ £20 Parlour Maid , £20 „ £35 Head Housemaid , £20 „ £28 Under Housemaid , £14 „ £18 General Servant , £12 „ £28 These are the wages that prevail in or near the Metropolis. The wages of under servants vary considerably according to locality ; and they axe often much lower in large establishments where young servants receive a good training than in middle-class households. Number of Servants suited to different incomes. — The following is a rough scale of servants suited to various incomes. It is, how- ever, impossible to give any general rule in these matters. Whether in a household of moderate means such as our scales deal with, a man-servant is required, will depend upon whether the house is situated in town or country, and if the possession of horses or a THE MISTRESS 17 garden renders his services imperative. One should not forget that when heavy expenses such as those of education have to be incurred for a family, this outlay must be carefully allowed for, before committing oneself in other directions. Similarly, where two servants are kept, and a nurse is required for young children, it will probably be deemed wise to dispense with the services of the housemaid, and arrange for the nurse to give some help to the cook. When one is considering if an extra servant is necessary or not, it is well to remember that assistance may sometimes be profitably arranged by engaging a lad for two or three hours a day to do such rough work as cleaning boots and shoes, working in the garden, etc. ; and, when uncertain whether to engage a gardener, one should not forget that a man not coming more than four days a week does not render an employer liable to the duty on man servants. About ;£i,ooo a year. Cook, housemaid, and perhaps a man-servant. From ^750 to £500 a year. Cook, housemaid. About £300 a year. General servant. About £200 a year. Young girl for rough work. Daily Duties. — Having thus indicated the pen- of a mistress in the m<> nmcnt of her household, we will now pive a few instructions on practical details. To do this m< begin with the earliest duties, and set forth the occupations of the day. Before Breakfast.— Having risen early and attended to the (oilet, sec that the child' proj>er < are. and an and com- fortable. Tlie first meal oj the day, l>n<akiast. will then be served, at which all the family should be j. mutually present, unless illness, or other eireumstances. prevcn breakfast is over, the mistress should make a round of the kitchen and other offio that all is in order, and that the early nvrnin has been properly per- formed by the various domestics. The orders for the day should •ions which the domestics may ask should be and any articles they require given out. Where a house- is engaged, she will of course perform the above-named <: upt notice should be taken of the first appearance of slack- t. or any faults in domestic work, so that the servant may know that her mistress is quick to detect the least disorder, and will ^factory work. Small faults allowed to pass unreproved . ly increase. A failing easily cured if promptly dealt with, is almost hopeless when it has been allowed to develop into a habit. After this General Superintendence of her . the mistress will probably have a certain number of letters to write, possibly some market- shopping to do, besides numberless small duties which are better in the day, such as arranging the flowers for drawing-room and dinner-table, etc. If she be the mother of a young family there may be some instruction to give them, or some of their wardrobes i8 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT to inspect, and needlework to be done. Time should also be allotted for reading and harmless recreation. If a lady does much plain needlework a sewing-machine is indis- pensable. With its help she can make and mend many articles used by her children and herself, and this without undue fatigue. The assistance of such an appliance is invaluable in every home, especially to a mother of daughters. Hand-sewing is slow and laborious, and unless provided with a sewing-machine, there is little inducement for any one to practise home-dressmaking. Apart from the valu- able experience gained in cutting-out, fitting, altering and re-making, a great saving may be effected. Luncheon. — In establishments where an early dinner is served, that meal will, of course, take the place of the luncheon. In many houses, where a nursery dinner is provided for the children about one o'clock, the elder members of the family usually make their luncheon at the same time. If circumstances are not strongly against the arrangement, the children of the house should take their dinner with their mother. It is far better for children to have their principal meal in the company of their mother and other members of the family, as soon as they are able to feed themselves properly. Many little vulgar habits and faults of speech and manner are avoided by this companionship. The mother can thus better watch over her children's health, and see that their food is properly cooked, served, and suited to them. Children who are accustomed to the society of their seniors at their meals will not be awkward or shy with visitors, or when they are staying from home. The nurse, likewise, by this plan is released, for a short period, from the care of her little charges, and, while she enjoys her dinner with her fellow-servants, "waiting on the nurse," a great objection with many housemaids, is avoided. Visiting. — After luncheon, morning calls and visits may be made and received. These may be divided under three heads ; those of ceremony, friendship, and congratulation or condolence. Visits of ceremony or courtesy, which occasionally merge into those of friendship, are to be paid under various circumstances. Thus, they are uniformly required after dining at a friend's house, or after a ball, picnic, or any other party. These visits should be short, a stay of from fifteen to twenty minutes being quite sufficient. When other visitors are announced, it is well to leave as soon as possible, taking care not to give the impression that your departure has been hastened by the arrival of the new guest. When they are quietly seated, and the bustle of their entrance is over, rise from your chair, taking a kind leave of the hostess, and bowing politely to the guests. Should you call at an inconvenient time, not having ascer- tained the luncheon hour, or from any other inadvertence, retire as soon as possible without, however, showing that you feel yourself an intruder. It is not difficult to make suitable excuses on such an THE MISTRF.SS 10 occasion, and a promise «.vn be made to call again, if the lath •1 on appear really sorry that circumstances have caused you Tt^n your visit. Visits of Friendship need not be so formal as those of ceremony. It is, however, advisable to call at suitable times, and to avoid staying too long if your friend is engaged. Courtesy and consideration for others are safe rules in these every-day matters. During visits manners should be easy and unstrained, and conversation natural and unforced. It is not advisable to take pet dogs into another lady's house, for there are people who have an absolute dislike to animals ; besides this, there is always a chance of the animal breaking something, to the annoy- ance of the hostess. 1 \ . t in the case of close friends or special in- vitation, little children should not accompany a lady in making morning calls. Where a lady, however, pays her \ isits in a carriage, the children can be taken, remaining in the carriage when the caller inters her friend It has now become gcr >s of a house to set aside one tort night or month, as the cast . on \\hich at home to :• . Wherever t I to be the case, casual \i to call on that day. It is hardly necessary to add that a lady should always be prepared for her to be from home on such a day, she nv -illy inform all her aojuam- good tii be spared a fruitless journey. :i a lady has n\ol i.< i "At Home -id cards have been I as, for example, M At Home on W trom 4 to 7," should be provided by the hostess, supplies of it. with thin bread -and -!• forthcoming as fresh guest > Morning Calls demand good but neat attire, a costume much elaborate than that w : will IK* out of ;, As a general rule, it may be said, both in reference to this and all other ssed. A strict account should be kept of cercmom and notice be h«>w soon your via rned. An opinion ma, be formed as to whether yoi: re, or are not, desirable. are. naturally, instances 1:1 \\hieh fcl instances of old age or ill-health will preclude any return of a call ; but when this is the case, it must not interrupt the discharge of the duty by those who no such excuses t In all \ i air acquaintance or friend be not at home, a card should IK- left. If you are in a carriage, the servant will answer your in<jui; 4t \\aiting for you to alight , if >n foot, g; card to the servant who . ; the door. The form 01 may be understood ises ; but the only courtcou <em as 20 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT being perfectly true. You may imagine that the lady of the house is really at home, and that she would make an exception in your favour, or you may think that your call is not desired ; but, in either case, not the slightest word is to escape you which would suggest, on your part, such an impression. Visits of Condolence should be paid within a week after the event which occasions them. If the acquaintance, however, is but slight, they should not be made until immediately after the family has appeared in public. A lady should send in her card, and, if her friends be able to receive her, the visitor's manner and conversation should be subdued, and in harmony with the character of her visit. Visitors paying visits of condolence should be dressed in black, or at any rate very quietly. Sympathy with the affliction of the family is thus expressed. Receiving Morning Calls. — The foregoing description of the etiquette to be observed in paying them will apply to the receiving of calls. It is to be added, however, that, generally speaking, all occupations should be suspended on the entrance of morning visitors. If a lady, however, be engaged with light needlework, she may continue it quietly during conversation, particularly if the visit be protracted. Formerly the custom was to accompany all departing visitors to the door of the house, and there take leave of them ; but modern society, which dispenses with a great deal of this kind of ceremony, now merely requires that the lady of the house should rise from her seat, shake hands, or bow, and ring the bell to summon the servant to attend them and open the door. In making a first call, either upon a newly- married couple or on persons newly arrived in the neighbourhood, a lady should leave her husband's card, together with her own, at the same time stating that the profession or business in which he is engaged has prevented him from having the pleasure of paying the visit with her. It is a custom with many ladies, when on the eve of an absence from their neighbourhood to leave or send their own and husband's cards, with the letters P. P. C. in the right-hand corner. These letters are the initials of the French words Pour prendre conge, meaning " To take leave." Visiting Cards and Invitations. — The fashion of visiting cards used to vary much, some being made extremely thin, but those of medium thickness are now usually preferred. When calling at a house, it used to be customary to turn up the lower right-hand corner of the card, to denote that a personal call had been made, but this is not general any longer. Tennis and croquet invitations are issued with the word at the bottom right-hand corner. For Soirees, " At Homes," Conversaziones, Dinners and Balls, invitation cards are used ; but for Weddings the invitations are issued upon notepaper. Gilt edges and gilt decorations are not often used nowadays, nor is the mono- gram, or crest, or both frequently embossed at the head of the paper. THE MISTRESS 21 It is customary at many houses during summer to give tennis or croquet teas. The meal is very informal, and often served out of doors. Iced tea, coffee, claret-cup, etc., are served, with sandwiches, pastry, cakes and other light viands. The tables are set under shady trees, and a couple of servants or members of the family are in attendance at them, the visitors themselves going to the table for \\hat they may want. The following is a form for wedding invitations : — Mr. and Mrs. A request the pleasure of Mr. and Mrs. B 's company on the occasion of the marriage of their daughter Alice with Fn\: <$ Ceremony on Wednesday, 14 June, at Church, at — o'clock, and a/tetwards at . R.S.V.P. The morning calls having been paid or received, and their etiquette properly attended to, the next great event of the day in most estab- lishments is " The Dinner " ; and we will only make a few &« remarks on tlu's important subject here, as in future pages the wl.de " Art of Dining " will be thoroughly considered, with reference io its economy, comfort and enjoyment. Invitations for Dinner. In giving these it is usual to give from a 8 to three weeks' nut ice, and luimal ones a. cards, such as the following — request the pleasure of company at dinner on the at o'clock. HOWARD HOUSE. KENSINGTON, \V. R.S.V.P. 22 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT In accepting an invitation the form of words used is- have much pleasure in accepting kind invitation for while in declining one it is usual to say — regret they are unavoidably prevented {or that a previous engagement prevents them] from accepting kind invitation for Before the Dinner. — A dinner-party, in an establishment where such an event is of rare occurrence, is apt to cause great anxiety to the in- experienced hostess, particularly when she cannot place full reliance in the training and capabilities of her servants. But, whatever her fears of disaster may be, she must meet her guests with a bright and cheery welcome. In giving any entertainment of this kind, the hostess should endeavour to make the guests enjoy the time spent under her roof, and the guests themselves should remember that they have come with the object of mutual entertainment. An opportunity is thus given to all for innocent pl3asure and intellectual intercourse, in the course of which pleasant and valuable friendships may be formed and information acquired that may prove useful through life. Many celebrated men and women have been great talkers ; and one may recall the genial Sir Walter Scott, who would speak freely to any one, and was wont to say that he never did so without learning something. With respect to the number of guests, it has often been said, that a private dinner-party should consist of not less than the number of the Graces, or more than that of the Muses. A party of ten or twelve is, THE MISTRESS 23 perhaps, as a general rule, sufficient for enjoyment. Gloves are worn by ladies at dinner-parties, but should be taken off before the actual meal begins. Going to Dinner. — Dinner having been announced, the host offers his arm to, and places on his right hand at the dinner-table, the lady to whom he desires to pay most respect, either on account of her age, position, or because she is the greatest stranger in the party. If this lady be married and her husband present, the latter takes the hostess — who always enters the dining-room last — to her place at table, and seats himself at her right hand. The rest of the company follow the host in couples, as specified by the master or mistress of the house, the whole party being arranged according to their rank and other circum- stances which may be known to the host and hostess. Guest Cards. — It will be found of great assistance to the placing of a party at the dinner-table, to have the names of the guests neatly written on small cards called " Guest cards " and placed at that part of the table where it is desired the several guests should sit. It is a matter of taste what cards should be used for this purpose ; small plain ones are perfectly admissible, but those with gold, silver or coloured borders are more effective and show more distinctly, laid as tin upon cither white table cloths or serviettes. Some with floral orna .tion are frequently used. Sometimes the menu card is a double one, which folds like a ball programme, and upon the ou of this the guest's name is written. The Dinner d la Russe, introduced into England about the middle of the nineteenth century, has now lace of the old custom of having all the dishes served from the table. The t>«. of dinner is fully dealt with in subsequent pages. Dessert.— When dinner is finished, the dessert is placed on the ' accompanied by finger-glasses, in which the tips of the fingei dipped after the fruit or sweetmeats of this c« been ta! Leaving the Dinner Table.— When fruit has been taken, and a glass or two of wine passed round, the time will ha i \vhen the hostess, after catching the eye of the lady first in precedence, rises, and gives her guests the signal to retire to the drawing-room. The gentlemen will rise at the same time, and the one nearest the door open it for the ladies, all courteously standing until the last lady has withdrawn. In former times, when the bottle circulated freely amongst the guests, the ladies retired earlier than they do at present. Thanks, however, to the changes time has wrought, strict moderation is now invariable amongst gentlemen, and they now take but a brief interval for tobacco. talk, and coffee, before they rejoin the ladies. After-dinner Invitations, by which we mean invitations for the evening, may be -ivm. The time of arrival ol :tors will vary nco'vdin;,' to their engagements, or son: -thence to the caprices of fashion. Guests invited for the evening arc, li encr- 24 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT ally considered at liberty to arrive whenever it will best suit themselves — usually between nine and twelve, unless earlier hours are specifically named. By this arrangement, those who have numerous engagements to fulfil, can contrive to make their appearance at two or three parties in the course of one evening. Ball or Evening Party Etiquette. — The etiquette of the dinner-party table being disposed of, let us now enter into that of an evening party or ball. The invitations for these are usually on "At Home " cards, filled in with the name and address of the sender and the date of the invitation, with the word " Dancing " or " Music," as the case may be, in one corner. They should be sent out about three weeks before the day fixed for the event, and should be replied to within a week of their receipt. By attention to these courtesies, the guests will have time to consider their engagements, and prepare their dresses, and the hostess will learn in good time the number of guests likely to be present. Short or verbal invitations, except to relatives or close friends, are not, formally speaking, correct, but, of course, very much depends on the circumstances under which the invitation is given. Social forms, while never allowed to become a fetish, should not be altogether neg- lected even among close friends and relatives, for unintentional neglect of a customary formality may be misunderstood and strain a valued friendship. Arrival of Guests. — Visitors on arrival should be shown to a room exclusively provided for their reception ; and in that set apart for the ladies, attendants should be in waiting to assist those ladies who may require help. It will be found convenient, where the number of guests is large, to provide numbered tickets, so that they can be attached to the cloaks and wraps of each visitor ; a duplicate of the ticket should be handed to the guest. Tea and coffee is provided in an ante-room, for those who would like to partake of it. Introductions. — The lady of the house usually stands at the door of the drawing-room to receive her guests. She may introduce some of them to others, where she may imagine mutual acquaintance will be suitable and agreeable. It is very often the practice of the master of the house to introduce one gentleman to another, but occasionally the lady performs this office. The custom of non-introduction is very much in vogue in many houses, and guests are thus left to discover for themselves the position and qualities of the people around them. The servant, indeed, calls out the names of all the visitors as they arrive, but, in many instances, mis- pronounces them ; so that it will not be well to follow this information, as if it were an unerring guide. But the gentleman is, of course, introduced by either host or hostess to the lady whom he is to take in to dinner. Refreshments. — A separate room or buffet should be set apart for Til TRESS refreshments. A supper is also often provided at private parties ; and equires, on the part of the hostess, a great deal of attention and supervision. It usually takes place between the first and second parts of the dances arranged. Programmes of these dances are printed in various forms, and have pencils attached. The monogram of the hostess, or the name of the house, with the date of the party, frequently heads these programmes. At Private Parties, a lady should not refuse the invitation of a gentle- man to dance, unless she be previously engaged. The hostess must be supposed to have asked to her house only those persons whom she knows to be of good character, as well as fairly equal position ; hence to d«. -i line the offer of any gentleman present would be a tacit reflection on tl.o master and mistress of the house. It may be mentioned here that an introduction at balls or evening parties does not necessanh subsequent acquaintanceship, no introduction, at these times. -i\ing a gentleman a right afterwards to address a lady. She is consequently A xt morning to pass her partner at a ball of the previous e\ without the slightest recognition, if she prefers to do so. Dancing. — The ball is generally opened by the lady of the house, load off the dance with the lady highest in rank of those present or the greatest stranger, it will be well for the hostess, even if she is an ardent and accomplished dancer, not to indulge in the art to an unlimited extent, as the duties of entertaining make lerable demands on her attention and time. A i suffice to show that she shares in the pleasures of the evening. The hostess and host, during the progress of a ball, will chat with their friends, and take care the ladies are furnished with seats, and that those who wish to dance arc provided with partners, A gentl- from the hostess that a lady lacks a partner during several dances, is ;i not to be neglected by a ,. In this way the com- fort and enjoyment of the guests can be promoted, and n- ;oncc the sensation of being a wallfl. ughout t! other cares, the mistress has frequently the added duties of a chaperon either of her own or some friend's daughters. Without ilations, or preventing the enjoyment of her charges, she must be able to ensure their doing nothing that is cither oulrt or in bad form. At a ball she will take special care that her charges always know where to find her, though no reasonable chaperon will expect a girl to be always with her. Departure. — \\ of the carriages ate announced, or the time for of the guests arrives, they should bid farewell to the hostes it attracting the attention of the other guests to tin ir departure It this cannot be done without creating too much bu>tl<-. it will K> better for the visitors to retire quietly without taking \Vit!i!-i i the entertainment, the hostess should i« from every guest a call, where possible, or cards expressing thegratinca- 26 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT tion experienced from her entertainment. To neglect such an obvious duty is an offence against all social rules Having shortly treated different forms of social gatherings, we now return to the ordinary routine of the household, though all the details we have given of dinner parties, balls, etc., belong to the department of the mistress. Without a knowledge of the etiquette to be observed on these occasions, a mistress would be unable to enjoy and appreciate those friendly meetings which, giving a pleasant change, make the quiet, happy life of an English gentlewoman the more enjoyable. In their proper places, all that is necessary to be known respecting the dishes and appearance of the breakfast, dinner, tea, and supper tables will be set forth in this work. Home Gatherings are more frequent and more important than social entertainments. Both, however, have to be studied with a view to efficiency, enjoyment and economy. These points will be dealt with in the pages on " Cookery." Here we will only say, that for both mis- tress and servants, it will be found wise to cook and serve the dinner, and to lay the tablecloth and the sideboard, with the same cleanliness, neatness and scrupulous exactitude, whether it be for the family, or for " company." If this be strictly adhered to, the details of work will become as second nature to all energies, and the trifling extra trouble entailed is amply repaid by the increased efficiency of servants, the feeling that one is always prepared for any chance callers, and the moral stimulus that is given by having all things done decently and in order. Evenings at Home should form a pleasant, improving and restful portion of the daily round. Few hours of the day present more oppor- tunities for forming and strengthening good habits and tendencies among the young. In many homes this is the only time when the busy father has the opportunity, and the mother the leisure, to share in the pursuits and pastimes of their children. If children do not find pleasure at home they will seek it elsewhere, often in undesirable directions. Hence it should form part of the settled domestic policy of every parent to make children feel that home is one of the happiest places in the world, thus cultivating in them an attachment to home interests that may prove an invaluable safeguard in the crucial years of their youth. With this object in view all innocent games and pastimes should be encouraged ; the young collector, naturalist, carpenter or engineer should be helped in his interesting and instructive hobbies. Games of skill, like chess and draughts, which have an educational value, should be introduced and opportunity given for cricket, cycling, walk- ing, hockey and healthy sport, whilst children who show any talent for music, drawing, modelling, composition, etc., should know that a keen interest is taken in their pursuits. Fancy needlework often forms a portion of the evening's recreation for the ladies of the household, and this may be made more pleasant by reading aloud some standard work, whether of instruction, humour, THE MISTRESS 27 6r romance, and there is no greater safeguard against those low-class and pernicious publications, which, alas ! abound, than an early acquaintance with the real masterpieces of literature. Retiring for the Night. — It is well to remember that early rising is almost impossible if retiring to rest at a late hour is the practice of the household. The younger members of a family should go early and at regular hours to their beds, and the domestics as soon as possible after a reasonably appointed hour. Either the master or the mistress of a house should, after all have gone to their separate rooms, see that all is right with respect to lights and fires below ; and no servants should on any account be allowed to remain up after the heads of the house have retired. Having thus dealt with daily routine from rising at morning to retiring at night, there remain only now to be considered a few matters, respecting which the mistress of the house may be glad to receive information. When taking a House in a new locality, it will be etiquette for the mistress to wait until the older inhabitants of the neighbourhood call upon her, thus evincing a desire, on their part, to become acquainted with the new-comer. It may be, that the mistress will desire an inti- mate acquaintance with but few of her neighbours ; but it is to be specially borne in mind that all visits, whether of ceremony, friendship, or condolence, should be punctiliously returned, though some time may be allowed to elapse in the case of undesirable acquaintance. Letters of Introduction. — You may perhaps have been favoured with letters of introduction from some of your friends, to persons living in the neighbourhood to which you have just come. In this case, enclose the letter of introduction in an cnvelojx?, with your card, if the person to whom it is addressed call in the course of a the visit should be returned by you within the week, if ]x>ssiblc. 1' ifl now more usual to write by the post and introduce a friend, instead of leaving everything to be said by the letter that is gr In the event of your being invited to dinner under the above cir- cumstances, nothing but necessity should ; you from accepting the invitation. If, however, there is some distinct reason why you cannot accent, let it be stated frankly and plainly. An opportunity- should, also, be call in the c« a day or two, in order to express your regret that untoward circu; - have made it im- possil -u to l»e | nvsent. In Giving a Letter of Introduction, it should always !>•• handed to your friend uir-altd. Courtesy tii< . i.. uhoin you are introducing would, perhaps, wish to know in what inaniu-s i.oken of. Should you receive a letter from a friend, introducing •rson known to and r-.io imd 1>\ tin- \\iu.i. the letter :r willingness e\j to do all in your power to carry out his or her wishes. 28 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT Order and Punctuality are so important to the comfort and happiness of the household that every mistress should fix stated hours for meals, etc., which ought to be strictly observed by every member of the family. ORDER OF THE HOUSEHOLD fHorning Drapers, 8.45 A.M. " Forsake not the assembling of yourselves together." MEALS. Breakfast (Kitchen & Nursery) . 8a.m. ,, (Dining-Room) . . 8.30,, Kitchen Dinner . . . 12.30 p.m. Luncheon 1.30 ,, Kitchen and Nursery Tea . .5 M Dinner 6.30,, Kitchen Supper . . . . 9 „ o POST ARRIVES. 8 A.M. " Kind words in which we feel the pressure of a hand." POST DEPARTS. 8.30A.M. & 6 P.M. " A timely written letter is a rivet in the chain of affection." Pleasures and Duties in due order linked. o praocrs, 10 P.M. The specimen card of order of the household will guide the mistress in drawing up a set of rules adapted to the special requirements of her own home. Furnishing a House is an anxious and onerous undertaking, involving far more ramifications, details and difficulties than can be dealt with here. A few useful elementary rules to be observed are as follows : before purchasing a single article, the future abode should be carefully inspected, and a careful plan made with exact measurements of the height, length and breadth of every room and of all recesses contained in them, for a few inches difference more or less will render quite impos- sible or useless for your room a suite or article of furniture fancied by you, or recommended by the plausible salesman, who has never seen the house to be furnished. Then, still, before any purchases are made, a list of the articles desired and necessary for the new house should be made, re-made, altered and considered, priced and re-priced, estimated and re-estimated. No trouble or care can be considered excessive in this task, for to most people, furnishing from cellar to attic, as the phrase THE MISTRESS 29 goes, is a task that comes to us but once in our existence, and some of the articles selected may have to last for a lifetime. Should money be limited, the sum that can be devoted to this purpose should be carefully fixed, and if the amount is not found sufficient for all requirements, the expenditure on all strictly necessary articles should be estimated and allowed for, before letting the fancy stray after superfluities and luxuries. This may seem a very obvious rule, but it is one often neglected. The scarcity of vile dross that prevents us from ordering all we think we need for our new establishment, may be a blessing in disguise, for many of those quaint and interesting articles that lend so much individuality and artistic charm to a dwelling can never be purchased in bulk, but must be acquired by a combination of good luck, good taste and loving search. The time required for an exciting hunt after articles of beauty, quaint ugliness, or romantic interest, will not be grudged by many young couples, for each treasure thus acquired tends to give fresh interest in the beautifying of a home. These rules consid catalogues compared, and the advantages and drawbacks of old and new furniture weighed, the prospective householder will be prepared to face the allurements of Tottenham Court Road and elsewhere. Every possible information about kitchen furniture and utensils, with carefully compiled price lists, will be found in a later chapter. It is now usual for the landlord to allow the incoming tenant to choose ill papers, and :ld advise our readers not to mind t considerable trouble in this respect. 1 1 is well to think whether the rooms require light or dark papers ; the furniture and nh which thoy are to be associated should also be considered. In few 1 1 care and taste better repaid than in such careful cli ..mid recommend our readers not to rest content with the sample books furnished by their landlord, but to inspect the designs of the best known and most artistic firms. Choosing a House.— Many mistresses have experienced the horrors of house-hunting, and it is well known that " three removes are as good (or bad, rather) as a fire." The choice of a house must depend on various circumstances with nt people, and to give any specific directions on this head would be impossible and useless, yet it will be desirable to point out some of the general features as to locality, soil, aspect, etc., which all house-hunters should carefully consider. irding the locality, we may say. speaking more particular a town house, that it is important to the health and comfort of a family that the neighbourhood of all factories producing unwholesome or offensive emanations or odours should be strictly avoided. Neither is it well to take a house in the immediate vicinity of a noisy trad. ould prove a constant annoyance. a house on lease, get a competent surveyor to inspect ite of tl:< roof, gutters, etc. Do not 30 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT rely upon the statements of an agent, or any one interested in letting the house. When circumstances permit, it is well to stay for some time in the neighbourhood to ascertain if it suits your health and taste before removing there. Referring to soils : it is held as a rule, that a gravel soil is best, as the rain drains through it very quickly, and it is consequently less damp than clay, upon which water rests a far longer time. Sand, chalk, and clay soils all possess their respective merits, but the latter should be avoided by those subject to rheumatic affections. The aspect of the house should be well considered, remembering that the more sunlight comes into the house the healthier is the habitation. A house with a south or south-west aspect is lighter, warmer, drier, and consequently more healthy, than one facing the north or north-east. Great advances have been made of late in sanitary knowledge, and the first point to inspect in a house is its drainage, as it has been proved in thousands of cases that bad or defective drainage is as certain to destroy health as the taking of poison. This arises from its injurious effect upon the atmosphere, which renders the air we breathe unwhole- some and dangerous. Let us remember, then, that unless the drainage of a house is perfect, the health of its inhabitants is sure to suffer ; and they will be susceptible to diphtheria, typhoid and all kinds of fevers and disease. A damp house also fosters rheumatism, ague, etc. The importance of a good water supply can scarcely be over esti- mated. No house, however suitable in other respects, should be taken if this important source of health and comfort is in the slightest degree scarce or impure. We cannot take too much care in seeing that it is pure and good, as well as plentiful, knowing as we do its constant influence on the health of a household. Ventilation is another feature which must not be overlooked. To ensure efficient ventilation both inlet and outlet openings must be provided ; the former, as near the floor as possible, without producing a draught ; the latter, close to the ceiling. The lower part of the window may be used as an inlet for air when the room is not in use. Iron gratings and perforated bricks fitted into the outer wall, and valves opening into the chimney, can all serve as outlets for foul air. Failing these, the upper sash of the window may be lowered ; but this method of ventilation is apt to cause an unpleasant draught, whereas the above-named devices admit and carry off air without any perceptible change of temperature. Before committing themselves to any agreement for a house, inex- perienced readers are advised to consult our " Legal Memoranda," given later on. Rent. — Some authorities say one-tenth, others one-eighth, of the total income should be spent in rent, but so many circumstances — such as the size of the family, its position, and the locality in which it is necessary to reside — affect this estimate, we are disposed to think it is THE MISTRESS 31 a question best left for careful consideration in each individual case. When facing the problem of taking a new and larger house, one should bear in mind that the mere increase in rent does not represent the whole of the extra, expense that will have to be borne, for besides rates, which of course increase proportionately, a larger house seems invariably to increase expenses all round. Yet it is not easy to give explicit re for this undoubted tendency. The Responsibilities or Duties of the mistress of a house are. though onerous and important, by no means difficult if given careful an : tematic attention. She ought always to remember that she rules the hold ; and by her conduct its whole internal policy is regulated. She is, therefore, a person of far- reaching importance. Her daughters model themselves on her pattern, and are directed by her counsels : — " Her children rise up and call her blessed ; her husband also, and he th her." Therefore let each wife, remembering her responsibilities. iat her conduct is such as to earn the love and reverence of her children and her husband. I.* t her remember the sincere homage paid to the good wife and mother by the great philosophers an-1 writers <>f .ill ages. J Taylor Kiys : "A good wife i ;st best gift to man; ngel and minister of graces innumerable; his gem of many virtues; his casket of j : ler voice is sweet mii-ie ; her snnlr. her kiss the guardian of his innocence ; her the pule of his safety ; the balm of his h< balsam of h: her industry. ! th ; her ccoiv afcst steward ; her lips, his l';utht:il counsellors : her bosom, the sott.-t j.ill,.\v of his Ivocatcsof 1! igs on his h«\ul." THE HOUSEKEEPER CHAPTER II Duties and Responsibilities. As Second in Command in the House, except in large establishments, where there is a house-steward, the housekeeper must consider herself as the immediate representative of her mistress, and bring to her work all the qualities of honesty, industry, and vigilance which would be expected of he- if she were at the head of her own family. Constantly striving to promote the prosperity of the household, she should oversee all that goes on in the house, that every department is thoroughly attended to, and that the servants are comfortable, at the same time that their various duties are properly performed. Cleanliness, punctuality, and method are essentials in the charac- ter of a good housekeeper. Without these qualities, no household can be well managed. Order again, is indispensable ; by it we provide that " there should be a place for everything, and everything in its place." Accounts. — A necessary qualification for a housekeeper is that she should thoroughly understand accounts. She will have to write in her books an accurate account of all sums paid for any and every purpose, the current expenses of the house, tradesmen's bills, wages, and many miscellaneous items. As we have mentioned in the previous chapter, a housekeeper's accounts should be periodically examined and checked by the head of the house. Nothing tends more to the satisfaction of both employer and employed than this arrangement. " Short reckonings make long friends " stands good in this case, as in others. The housekeeper should make a careful record of every domestic purchase whether bought for cash or not. This record will be found a useful check upon the bills sent in by the various tradesmen, so that any discrepancy can be inquired into and set right. An intelligent housekeeper will by this means be able to judge of the average con- sumption of each article in the household ; and to prevent waste and carelessness. The following table of expenses, income, or wages, shows what any sum, from £i to £100 per annum, is, when reckoned per quarter, calendar month, week, or day : — 32 HIE HOUSEKEEPER 33 MVr \ c.ir. Jll H t.T. Per Per \\\vl Pec D.iv. Per Year, Per Chi.irti-r Per Month. 1 Per '. ( S. J. s. d. s. d d. £ s. rf. £ s. d : s. d. £ s. d. d I O i 8 0 4 of II O 0 J 18 4 043 71 I IO 2 !•> 10 0 12 6 3 4 4 2 9 i! 13 o o 14 o o 3 3 3 10 i i 3 • 5 o 5 4i 3 o 15 0 5 o i 2 15 o o 3 15 5 9 10 17 6 5 10 16 o o 6 6 2 10 4 o 0 0 6 8 17 o o 4 5 8 6 6} ii 4 10 2 6 7 6 8 3 18 o o 4 10 10 6 ii ii 5 ° 8 4 ii 0 0 4 15 ii ~ ; ' o 7 6 9 2 il 3i 0 0 M 7 8 I 10 0 10 0 3 4 30 o o 7 10 IO ii 5 7 1) 10 12 6 IO 10 6 4 J 40 o o IO O 6 15 4l 2 7 o 7 i" 15 o 17 6 ii 8 12 6 .a 5 50 o o 60 0 0 12 IO 15 0 i I 3 » o 19 3 3 oj •) 3l S 10 0 0 13 4 3 i 70 o o 80 o o 17 10 20 o ( 16 IO O T4l 'J O 5 o 15 0 J 5l 6* 90 o o 22 IO !IO 1U *) n 71 - ^1 H IO O 10 O 3 10 61 100 0 0 25 o 6 18 51 ! 51 Coakhg. Although tin- hoii-okocjM-r dors not ;;rnn.illy intnl'm- inm-h in thr .i':tu.il work of thr cook, yet it is necessary that she should Imowledge of cookery ; for she has to direct the \\Mik ot others. In some establishments cakes, bre.id. jams, pickl. mad.- in the still-room under the housekeeper's superintendence. Instruction in Cookery.— Happily it is now usual for all voting people to learn something of this art, and it is a valuable accomplishment, no matter to what class they belong, for at some time of their lite it is sure to be ot use. A gfefcl many, too. who do not actually k themselves are ,^lad to have the power of checking the work of their cooks, who without such a check would become domestic tyrants. With servants ot this sort a mistress who knows nothing of cooking is ]H>\vcrlr>s. IV lore the existence of cookery schools instruction could only be obtained at home, tnnn the mother, housr!. cook, but now many who desire instruction prefer to avail them- - of the many opportunities offered by the cookery schooU and classes. This course has advantages to recommend it ; for that a practical teacher, while allowing the pupil considerable freedom of choice, takes care that the lessons comprise dishes which teach the principles of cookery, as well as mere manipulation of the ;als. A good teacher also endeavours to inculcate habits ot eronomv. cleanliness, and lidn ;.•> the mere details of the science ; but it the cook were to teach on the same lines her motive might be misunderstood, and her advice resented. If the pupils would always practise in their own homes the- tidiness and cleanliness th- taught in the schools, they would be less ircipiently regarded nuisance by the cook. Novices should make a rule not to use inn. sary utensils, to wait on oneself as much as possible, and to clear . all materials and utensils when they have finished. C 34 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT The Daily Duties of a Housekeeper are regulated, in a great measure, by the size of the establishment she superintends. She should rise early, and see her assistants are duly performing their work, and that the pre- parations for breakfast are progressing satisfactorily. After breakfast, which, in large establishments, she will take in the " housekeeper's room," with the lady's-maid, butler, and valet, served by one of the under-maids, she will, on days set apart for such purposes, carefully examine the household linen, with a view to its being repaired, or further necessary supplies being procured ; she will also see that the furniture throughout the house is well rubbed and polished ; and attend to all the necessary details of marketing and ordering goods from the tradesmen. The Housekeeper's Room is generally made use of by the lady's-maid, butler and valet, who take there their breakfast, tea and supper. The lady's-maid will also use this apartment as a sitting-room, when not engaged with duties which would call her elsewhere. In different estab- lishments, according to their size, means and expenditure of the family, different rules, of course, prevail. For instance, in mansions where great state is maintained, and there is a house-steward, two distinct tables are kept, one in the steward's room for the principal members of the staff, the second in the servants' hall for the other domestics. At the steward's dinner-table, the steward and housekeeper preside ; and here, also, may be included the lady's-maid, butler, valet. After Dinner, the housekeeper, having seen that her assistants have returned to their various duties, and that the household is in proper working order, will have many important matters claiming her atten- tion. She will, possibly, have to give the finishing touch to some article of confectionery, or be occupied with some of the more elaborate processes of the still-room. There may also be the dessert to arrange, ice-creams to make ; and many employments that call for no ordinary degree of care, taste and attention. The Still-room was formerly much more common than at present, for in days of " auld lang syne " the still was in constant requisition for the supply of home-made wines, spirits, cordials and syrups, home-made medicines, scents, and other aromatic substances for the toilet, and sweet- flavoured waters for the purposes of cookery. There are some estab- lishments, however, in which distillation is still carried on, and in these the still-room maid has her old duties to perform. In a general way, however, this domestic is immediately concerned with the housekeeper. For the latter she lights the fire, dusts her room, prepares the breakfast table, and waits at the different meals taken in the housekeeper's room. A still-room maid may learn a very great deal of useful knowledge from her intimate connexion with the housekeeper, and if she be active and intelligent, may soon fit herself for a better position in the household. Evening Occupation. — In the evening, the housekeeper will often busy THE HOUSEKEEPER 35 herself \vith the necessary preparations for the next day's duties. Numberless small, but still important, arrangements will have to be . so that everything may move smoothly. At times, perhaps, at t CTI lion will have to be paid to the preparation of lump-sugar, spices, candied peel, the stoning of raisins, the washing, cleansing, and drying of currants, etc. The evening, too, is the best time for attending to household and cash accounts, and making memoranda of any articles she may require for her store-room or other departments. IVriodically, at some convenient time — for instance, quarterly or half-yearly — it is a good plan for the housekeeper to make an inventory ; \ -thing she has under her care, and compare this with the lists of a former period ; she will then be able to furnish a statement, it try, of the articles which, from wear, breakage, loss, or other s, it has been necessary to replace or replenish. Responsibilities. — In concluding these remarks on the duties of the hous .-k< -i -JM T. we will briefly refer to the very great responsibility which ies to her position. Like " Caesar's wife," she should be " above suspicion," and her honesty ancfrsobriety unquestionable ; for there are many temptations to which she is exposed. From a physical point of view, a housekeeper should be healthy and strong, and be particularly rhau in her person, and her hands, though they may show a slight of roughness, from the nature of some of her employments, still should have a nice appearance. In he; - with the various nun, and her behaviour to the domestics under her, the Hour and conduct of the housekeeper should never diminish her authority or influence. Seasons for different kinds of work. — It will be useful for the nv, and housekeeper to know the be>t Masons for various (> i ounce ted with Household Management ; and we, accordiii ;h , subjoin a few hints which we think will pr <.ble. In the winter months, some of the servant^ have much more to do, in luence of the neaw-ity there i> I 1 to the necessary In the summer, and when the absence of fir the dom more leisure, a lit ' Spring is the usual period set apart for house-clear. . ivm,,\ in- all the dust and dirt which, notwithstanding all precautions, \\ill accumulate during the \\ inter months, from dust, sin s. etc. This Mason is also well adapted for washing and bleaching linen, etc.. it her not being then too hot for the exertions necessary in washing counterpanes, blankets, and ork is and more easily done than in the g: ' 's (.1 July. Winter curtains should be taken down, and replaced by the summer white and furs and winter clothes also carefully laid by. The former should 11 shaken and brushed, and then pinned t;; or linen, with camphor ; them 1 oin moths. Spring cleaning must inc'ude the turning out ol ,,11 the n.»oks and corners of drawers, cupboards, 36 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT lumber-rooms, etc., with a view to getting rid of unnecessary articles, which left there create dirt and harbour mice and other vermin, though only useless encumbrances left where they are, they may be of great value to one's poorer neighbours. Sweeping chimneys, taking up and cleaning carpets, painting and whitewashing the kitchen and offices, papering rooms, when needed, and, generally speaking, giving the house, a bright and new appearance, for the approaching summer, are among the cares of this season. Oranges should now be preserved, and wine made. Summer will be found the best period for examining and repairing household linen, and for " putting to rights " all those articles which have received a large share of wear and tear during the winter. The old proverb, " A stitch in time saves nine," applies very strongly to the care of such linen articles as table cloths, serviettes, sheets, pillow-slips, etc., a little early and careful attention to which will often prolong their period of usefulness. In June and July, currants, raspberries, straw- berries, gooseberries, and other summer fruits should be preserved, and jams and jellies made. Eggs are cheap and plentiful at this season of the year, and the housekeeper should preserve, by one of the several satisfactory methods, a good supply for the winter months, when eggs, though more in demand than ever, are scarce and dear. Many house- holds also find it economical to purchase in June a supply of salt butter in kegs for winter use. In July, too, the making of walnut ketchup should be attended to, as the green walnuts will be approaching per- fection for this purpose. Many other pickles may also be made at this season, full directions for which are given in our pages. Autumn fruit of various kinds, as plums, damsons, blackberries, cranberries and many others, should be bottled and preserved, and jams and jellies made. Pickled mushrooms, mushroom and tomato ketchup, pickled cabbage and beetroot, and many such stores should be prepared at this season. The apples and pears for winter use should now be gathered in and stored. These should be frequently looked over, and any fruit showing symptoms of decay removed. Filberts, cob nuts, and walnuts should also be preserved in sand and salt to pre- vent them from drying up and decaying. In September and October it will be necessary to prepare for the cold weather, and get ready the winter clothing for the various members of the family. The white summer curtains will now be carefully put away, the fire-places, grates, and chimneys looked to, and the house put in a thorough state of repair. In December, the principal household duty lies in preparing for the creature comforts of those near and dear to us, so as to meet Old Christ- mas with a happy face, a contented mind, and a full larder. And in stoning plums, washing currants, cutting peel, beating eggs, and mixing a pudding, a housewife is not unworthily greeting the season of good will. THE COOK CHAPTER III General Advice to the Cook, with Observations on her Duties, and those of the Kitchen and the Scullery Maids Man mi <>ut love— • pining? man who can live without dining? We mav ut friend*, we may 1 ks. But . u,Uf." by 0»tn \ ook and those who serve umler her arc so intimately ass. an h.inlly be treated of scpara ic cook, howi be clean. dcrly and «p. .10 arc un icsc good <ju. Ujx.ll t tilt* :lhnn assistance. ''lishmcir • ook was indeed a great pcrsoi an one . the art receiving a minor or title Inc. iu^< of his sovereign with some dainty dish. In those days Un- cock gave ich commanded a view of all that was going on. Each held a long wooden spoon, with which tic tasted. aving his scat, the dainties th.it wore cooking on t and the spoon was i v used as a rod of \ . the backs ot those who did not suthcienth s of diligence and ace. Early Rising.— If, as we have said, early rising is of the utmost im- portance to t! IK? to the s« rv.int ! 1 uth that wit!. .-ami punctuality good work is almost impossible. A cook ought to realize this imi - she lose an hour in the morning, she is likely to be k all clay to overtake necessary tasks that would otherwise have been easy to her. Six o'clock is a good hour to rise in the summer, and 11 in tl.c The Cook's First Duty should lx> to prepare the \r. kg, and service of which will be found in a 38 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT chapter, and then to busy herself with those numerous little tasks associated with arranging and providing for the day. This will bring her to the breakfast hour of eight, after which preparations must be made for the other meals of the household. Daily Duties. — In those households where cook and housemaid only are kept, the general custom is that the cook shall look after the dining- room. Other household work, varying in different households, is also committed to her care. In establishments of this kind, the cook will, after having lighted her kitchen fire, brushed the range, and cleaned the hearth, proceed to prepare for breakfast. She will thoroughly rinse the kettle, and set it to boil. She may then perhaps have to go to the breakfast-room, and there make things ready for the breakfast. Atten- tion must also be given to sweeping the hall, shaking the hall mats, which she must afterwards put back in their places. The cleaning of the kitchen, passages, and kitchen stairs must always be over before breakfast, so that it may not interfere with the other business of the day. Everything should be ready, and the whole house should wear a comfortable aspect. Nothing is more pleasing to the mistress of an establishment than to notice that, although she has not been present to see the work done, proper attention has been paid to such matters. By the time that the cook has performed the duties mentioned above, and well swept, brushed, and dusted her kitchen, the breakfast bell will perhaps summon her to the parlour, to " bring in " breakfast. It is often the cook's department, in small establishments, to take in the breakfast, as the housemaid, by this time, has gone upstairs into the bedrooms, and has there applied herself to her various duties. But many ladies prefer the breakfast brought in by the housemaid, though it remain to be cleared and washed up by the cook. Whichever way this part of the work is managed, each servant should have her duties clearly laid down for her. The cook usually answers the bells and single knocks at the door in the early part of the morning, as the tradesmen, with whom it is her more special business to speak, call at these hours. The Preparation of Dinner is the most important part of the cook's work, wherein she begins to feel the responsibility of her situation, as she has to see to the dressing and serving of those dishes, which her skill and ingenuity have prepared. Whilst these, however, are cooking, she must be busy with her pastry, soups, gravies, entrees, etc. Stock, or what the French call bouillon, being the basis of most made dishes, must be always at hand, in conjunction with sweet herbs and spices for seasoning. " A place for everything, and everything in its place," must be the rule, in order that time may not be wasted in looking for things when they are wanted, and that the whole business of cooking may move with the regularity and precision of a well-ad- justed machine. All must go on simultaneously. The vegetables and THE COOK 39 sauces must be ready with the dishes they are to accompany, and the smallest oversight must be avoided in their preparation. It is a good plan when a dinner of many courses has to be prepared, to write out, and hang in a conspicuous place, two lists of the day's dishes, one of the order in which they must be served, with every accessory complete, that nothing may be forgotten, and one of the order in which each should be cooked, that nothing may be over or underdone. When the dinner hour has arrived it is the duty of the cook to dish up such dishes as may, without injury, stand for some time covered on the hot plate or in the hot closet ; but such as are of a more important or delicate kind must be delayed until the order " to serve " is given. Then comes haste ; but there must be no hurry — all must work with method. The cook takes charge of the fish, soups and poultry ; and the kitchen-maid of the vegetables, sauces and gravies. These she puts into proper dishes, while the scullery-maid waits on and assists the cook. Every dish must be timed so as to prevent its getting cold, whilst care should be taken that no more time is lost between the courses than is absolutely necessary, for good serving, hot plates, gravy and sauces tin t <> get cold and greasy, arc vital factors in pro- viding a good dinner. When the dinner has been served, the most important item in the daily work of the cook is at an end. She must, however, every night and morning, look to the contents of her larder, taking care to keep everything sweet and clean, so that no disagreeable smells may arise from the neglect of this precaution. These arc the principal duties of a cook in a big establishment. In many smaller households the cook engages to perform the whole work of the kitchen, and, in some places, a portion of the housework also. Duties of the Kitchen- Maid. — Whilst the cook is engaged with her morn- ing duties, the kitchen- or scullery-maid is also occupied with hers. Her first duty, after the fire is lighted, is to sweep and clean the kitchen and the various offices belonging to it. This she does every morning, s cleaning the stone steps at the entrance of the house, the halls, the passages, and the stairs, if any , which lead to the kitchen. Her g< duties, besides these, are to wash and scour all these places twi with the table, shelves, and cupboards. She has also to attend to the nursery and servants' hall dinners while cooking, to prepare all iish, P >ultry, and vegetables, trim meat joints and cutlets, and do all such duties as may be assigned to her by the cook. The duties of the kitchen- or scullery-maid, in short, are to assist the cook in everything in which she may require aid ; to keep the scullery and all kitchen utensils clean. The duties of a kitchen-maid and scul- lery-maid arc almost identical, and the only reason that exists : tiiinin : the two names is that in large establishments, where two kilchcn- !<«'j-t. it is useful to distinguish them as kitchen- and scullery- maid. the former doing the more iinjxDrtant, and the latter the coarser. work ..t the kitchen. 40 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT ADVICE TO COOKS AND KITCHEN-MAIDS Importance of Cooking. — A good cook has every reason to magnify the office she holds, for her work influences not only the comfort but also the health of the whole household, and mindful of this responsibility she will take care to study both the needs and tastes of those whose food she prepares. With invalids and people in delicate health this care is of the utmost importance. Try and realize for yourself the importance of your post. Whether your employers are working hard in professions or business, or leading a comparatively leisured existence, whether they have poor appetites or large ones, good cooking of their food is absolutely necessary to their health. Make a rule to send everything up to table really well cooked. Do not regard this as an impossibility, for it can be done. If you are told to prepare anything you are not certain about, have the courage to say so and ask your mistress's advice. How many dishes and dinners have been spoilt because cooks have been too proud to confess ignorance ! Accidents, of course, will happen (though but rarely with proper precautions ) ; fires will not always burn, nor ovens bake as they should ; but if the joint, or whatever it may be, cannot be done to time, do not send it up raw, but ask for a little grace. If anything is really spoilt (as even with care it sometimes is) confess the fact, and do not send up a dish calculated to take away people's appetites. Cleanliness. — A dirty kitchen is a disgrace to all concerned. Good cookery cannot exist without absolute cleanliness. It takes no longer to keep a kitchen clean and orderly than untidy and dirty, for the time that is spent in keeping it in good order is saved when culinary operations are going on and everything is clean and in its place. Personal cleanli- ness is most necessary, particularly with regard to the hands. Dress. — When at your work, dress suitably ; wear short dresses, well-fitting boots, and large aprons with bibs, of which every cook and kitchen-maid should have a good supply, and you will be comfortable as you never can be with long dresses, small aprons, and slipshod shoes, the latter being most trying in a warm kitchen, which may very likely have a stone floor. A maid-servant's working dress, with its neat and becoming cap, is far from ugly, and nothing is more suitable for them whilst at their work. Neatness should be studied by all engaged in domestic work. It will repay those who practise it a thousand fold by constantly saving them needless work. Clear as you go ; do not allow a host of basins, spoons, plates, etc., to accumulate on the dresser or tables while you are preparing the dinner. By a little management and forethought much confusion may be saved in this way. It is as easy to put a thing in its place when it is done with as to continually remove it to find room for fresh THE COOK 41 requisites. For instance, after making a pudding, the flour tub, paste- board, and rolling pin should be put away, and any basins, spoons, etc., taken to the scullery, neatly packed up near the sink, to be washed when the proper time arrives. Economy. — !%^ver waste or throw away anything that can be turned to account. In warm weather any gravies or soups that have been left from the preceding day should boiled up and poured into clean pans. Full directions with regard to stock pots, digesters and other economies of the kitchen will be found in a later chapter. Go early every morning to your larder (which, like the kitchen, ought to be kept perfectly clean and neat), and while changing plates, looking to your bread pan (which should always be emptied and wiped out every morning), take notice if there is anything not likely to keep, and acquaint your mistress with the fact. It is better if there is a spare cupboard in the kitchen to keep any baked pastry there, and thus preserve its crispness. Kitchen Supplies. — Do not let your stock of pepper, salt, spices, season- ings, herbs, etc., dwindle so low that there is danger of finding yourselt minus some very important ingredient, the lack of which may cause much confusion and annoyance. Think of all you require when your mistress sees you in the morning, that she may give out any necessary stores. If you live in the country have your vegetables gathered from the garden at an early hour, so that there is ample time to get rid of caterpillars, etc., which is an easy task if tl are allowed to soak in salt and water an hour or two. Punctuality. — This is an indispensable quality in a cook. When there is a large dinner to prepare get all you can done the day before or early on the morning of the day. This will save a great deal of time and enable you, with good management, to send up your dinner in good time and style. Cleansing of Cooking Utensils. — This is one of the cook's most important duties, and one that should never be neglected or put off from one day to another. When you have washed your saucepans, fish kettle, etc., stand them before the fire for a few minutes to get thoroughly dry inside before putting away. They should then be put in a dry place in order to escape rust. Put some water into them directly they are done with, if they have to stand some time before they are washed. Soups or gravies should never be allowed to stand all night in saucepans. Frying pans should be cleaned (if black inside) with a crust of bread, and washed with hot water and soda. It is a good plan to have a knife kept especially for peeling onions, but where this is not done the one used should be thoroughly cleaned. If the tin has worn off copper utensils, have it immediately replaced. Clean your coppers with tur- pentine and fine brick dust, or waste lemon skins and sand, rubbed on with flannel, and polish thorn with a leather and a little dry brick dust. Clean tins with soap and whiting, rubbing on with a soft rag or 42 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT flannel, wiping them with a dry cloth, and lastly with a soft dry cloth or leather. Washing of Dishes, Etc. — Do not be afraid of hot water in washing up dishes and dirty cooking utensils ; as these are essentially greasy, luke- warm water cannot possibly have the effect of cleansing them thoroughly, and soda in the water is a great saving of time as is also a fresh supply of hot water. After washing the plates and dishes wash out your dish tubs with a little soap, soda and water, and scrub them often ; wash the dish cloth also and wring it out, and after wiping out the tubs stand them to dry. Pudding cloths and jelly bags should have immediate attention after being used ; the former should be well washed, scalded, and hung up to dry. Let them be perfectly aired before being put away. No soda should be used in washing pudding cloths. The Sink. — Do not throw anything but water down the sink, as the pipe is liable to get choked, a state of things which causes both ex- pense and annoyance. At least three times a week pour a pailful of boiling soda water down every trap, for this prevents accumulation of fat, which more often than anything else stops up sink pipes. Try to realize how important this duty is ; bad smells (often caused by a stoppage in the sink pipes) are most disagreeable and dangerous. Whilst a cook should be versed in all the details of her position, a mistress should never forget her own duty of seeing that the laws of economy, cleanliness and order are not neglected by her servants. The servants who reflect that some day they will probably need neatness, cleanliness and economy in their own homes, and for their own benefit, will feel grateful to the employer who insists on the practise of these virtues. THE KITCHEN CHAPTER IV The Arrangement, Economy and Furniture of the Kitchen, Kitchen and Cooking Appliances, Utensils and their Prices, Etc. Writers on Domestic Economy, etc. — There are few of those who have turned their attention to domestic economy and architec- ture, who have written on these important subjects with better effect ll:, in Sir Benjamin Thompson, an American chemist and physicist, known as " Count Kumford," a title of nobility bestowed upon him by the Kin<^ o: Bavaria. He did not, however, go very deeply or fully into the dcsi in and construction of that part of the dwelhng- which is chiefly devoted to cookery purposes, when he declared that " the construction of a kitchen must ;il\vays depend so much on local circumstances that general rules can hardly be given resp< it," and again that "the principles on which this construction ought in all cases to be made are simple and easy to be understood." i principles resolved themselves, in his estimation, into adequate room and convenience for the cook. Definition of the term Kitchen. — The Anglo-Saxon cictn, the Danish //, the German Kiiche, and tin . Cuisine are all r« to the Latin word coquere — to cook. The word kitchen probably from the end of the twelfth century, when the English language began to take concrete form. Chaucer, who died in 1400, makes use of the word in the " Canterbury Tales," the best example of the English language of that day. Shakespeare (1564-1616) speaks of the kitchen as a cook-room, clearly indicating its use in the sixteenth century ; while Spenser (1552-1599) says the hostess . . . "led her guests anone Unto the kitchen room, ne spared for niceness none." Here is undoubtedly meant a room in which the meal was to be il. Requisites of a Good Kitchen.— That Count Kumford is perfectly right 43 44 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT in his general, though somewhat broad premises, no one will be disposed to deny ; nevertheless, the requisites of a good kitchen demand some- thing more special than is here pointed out. It must be remembered that it is the great laboratory of every household, and that much of the family " weal or woe," as far as regards bodily health, depends upon the nature of the food prepared within its walls. In the con- struction and disposition of a kitchen, therefore, the following con- ditions should be secured. (1) Convenience of distribution in its parts, with largeness of dimen- sion. (2) Excellence of light, height and ventilation. (3) Easy of access, without passing through the house. (4) Walls and location so arranged that the odours of cookery cannot spread about the house. (5) Plenty of fuel and water, which, with the scullery, pantry and storeroom, should be so near the kitchen as to offer the smallest possible trouble in reaching them. In addition to these important points, the equipment of the kitchen demands careful consideration. Under this term is comprised its fittings, fixtures, furniture, and the utensils that should be found in the kitchen itself and the adjacent back kitchen, or scullery, for household and culinary uses. It will be convenient to consider the first three items as forming one division of our subject, and the last as another ; the portability of the various articles comprehended in the second division forming the chief point of distinction between them and those which find a place in the first. THE FITTINGS, FIXTURES AND FURNITURE OF THE KITCHEN The Fittings. — Under this title, let us glance briefly at the finish of the several surfaces within which the cubic space of the apartment itself is included : namely, the ceiling, the walls and the floor. There is more wear and tear and more injury from causes that tend to soil and disfigure in the kitchen than in any other part of the house, and care should therefore be taken to guard against the former as much as possible, and to render the effacement of the latter as easy and as speedy as possible. (1) The Ceiling. — The most suitable ceiling is a plain, smoothly- plastered one, whether the kitchen is used solely for the purpose of cooking or, as is the case with the working-classes, as a combined kitchen and living room. It should be frequently whitewashed, for apart from the cleanliness, which is always desirable, the whiter the ceiling the greater will be its capacity to reflect light, and there- fore to render the kitchen lighter. (2) The Walls. — The walls of a kitchen used only for culinary pur- poses should be lined with white glazed tiles, or else have a high-tiled STOVES AND COOKING RANGE, i. Warming Stove. 2. Continuous burning Anthracite Coal Warming Stove. 3. Kitchen Range. C* COOKING RANGES, i. Portable Range with Oven, fixed in front of grate. 2. Portable Range with Oven and Boiler, fixed in recess. THE KITC1I1 \ 45 dado. Tiled walls are more easily kept clean than disk-in pi-red walls, which show every mark. When disteirq>er must be used, some light shade should be selected, but not necessarily bull, although that colour :ierally preferred because walls and woodwork should agree in colour, and buff is liked better than grey or green in a kitchen. Certainly buff has many good qualities to recommend it ; it is clcan- 1" >king, and in consequence of its colour nearly approaching that of the wood it show signs of wear less quickly than other colours. I hose who work in kitchens of this description have the housekeeper's rot nn and the servants' hall in which to sit when their work is done. An apartment of different appearance is necessary in smaller middle- households, where the maids have to spend their leisure time in the kitchen, and also in the homes of the working-classes where the kitchen is the living-room of the family. For these, the most appropriate and durable wall-coverings are varnished papers. Recent have introduced many new fashions in this direction, but nothing thai can be recommended in preference to the old-faslu'oncd oak papers with dull surfaces, specially prepared to receive the varnish being hung. The initial outlay is considerable, but a good, \vell-varirshed paper will last a very long time. Moreover, it always looks bright, is easily kept dean, and its smooth surface pre- vents any accumulation of dust, which is a great recommend. a ion from a health point of view. The woodwork should be painted, grained and varnished to match the paper. The sanitary, so-called washable papers are less expensive than varnished papers, but their t surfaces will not stand repeated applications of soap and water ; they may, however, be wiped over with a damp sponge or damp cloth. (3) The Floor. — Floor-coverings are very rarely found in kitchens devoted entirely to cookery. Oil-cloth and linoleum are the only materials which can possibly be used, and they are generally um :ll1 V. north < are cen . In ti, hell lloor usually v \vhu !. ace ; while or, coast tlif il. frequently laid with nd < >r yellow brit ks. \\V>odcn floors and concrete ll<><>rs may be seen in any part of the count iv. particularly in large eMablishmeir receive considerable attention. In middle-class households. ble to combine utility and comfort, good linoleum will be found the mo,; ntablc floor-t • or the kitchen. The patterned varieties aie pivl.-rable to those with plain sin : which quickly become dis!iy,iin-d by marks math- by the lurmtur< . Kitchen Fixtures. The fixtures are the immovable articles attached to the walls of the kitchen. I ,<blv, but in ; lolds when- the kilt hen is used Mnii.lv for its l,-:;!inr.. • 46 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT of cookery, they usually comprise cupboards fitted with shelves in which the cook keeps her stores and utensils ; strips of wood provided with hooks for meat-covers, etc.; electric light or gas-fittings ; electric bell indicator or ordinary bell-fittings ; dresser, ventilators and a sink. The dresser is nearly always a movable article, but the upper part of it has to be firmly secured to the wall by strong " holdfasts," and it consequently becomes a fixture by agreement between tenant and tenant or tenant and landlord. The dresser is usually some six or seven feet long, and the upper part consists of four or five narrow grooved shelves, upon which are disposed plates and dishes. The broad shelf of the dresser, usually termed THE TOP, affords ample space for the accommodation of the soup- tureen, sauce- tureens and vegetable- dishes ; while the drawers which run beneath form a convenient receptacle. The lower part forms an open recess from end to end, and has a shelf raised a few inches above the floor. This shelf is gener- ally painted black, and forms a convenient place for large culinary utensils not in use. A well-constructed sink is indispensable in a kitchen. Wooden sinks, lined with zinc, sinks made of stoneware, and sinks lined with well-cemented tiles are very serviceable, and easily kept clean. They should never be fixed in out-of-way corners, but should be easy of access for both cleaning and repairing. Whether the sink is in constant use or not, the pipe should be flushed at least once a day with hot soda and water. However some people prefer it excluded from the kitchen. Every kitchen should be provided with some outlet for the hot foul air which rises to the top of the kitchen. The doors and windows may be used as a means of admitting fresh air, but an outlet at a higher level than the window is always necessary. The kitchen range is always a fixture, but of so much importance that the subject will be treated separately. What has been already said regarding kitchen fixtures applies equally to the kitchens in middle-class households, but not to the homes of the working-classes. Electric light and electric bell fittings are not often found there ; properly-constructed sinks, efficient venti- lation and convenient cupboards they have, or ought to have ; and in many households a dresser is considered indispensable, but it is often a movable article of furniture, and will be described under that heading. Kitchen Furniture. — In making selection for the kitchen with dis- tempered walls and bare floor, strength and durability are the chief points to be considered. The centre table is the most important article of furniture ; it should be as large as the kitchen will conveniently allow ; and the usual form is oblong, with a drawer at each end. In one drawer the cook keeps knives and spoons, and in the other small utensils and implements in constant use, such as dariol -moulds, patty- pans, and cases containing cutters, larding-needles, etc. Modern tables THF KIT- ! 47 :th a shell underneath, which runs from end to end at a nicnt height from the floor ; and this arrangement to and fro between ti. in small kite: tblc spac« a good substitute. The table should be made of good, well-seasoned deal or other white hard wood ; the top must be smooth, without a •:.! Mibst. to legs perfectly plain and strong. No pai uld be painted. bccau ;ng is a : 1 half- worn paint soon ibby api>carance. On the other 1 ; ubbed wood always looks clean and a; v bare . uncovered floor and pots md one 01 t\\.» .ntial chairs comprise the whole furniture. The nv chopping- blocl;. « tc.. all occupy space, are not there to furnish the kitch- The: hoicc in d to th< loublc office of Shakespeare's " cook room " and Spenser's iien roomc, ne spared for niccnes «• square or obl-> r.-. \\ith turned legs in \ s to meet the retj II. The term DRESSER was originally applied to a narrow side ^s dressed or \ use. In motleni phraseology rcsser is described as " a kind of kitchen sideboard with rows of •ee drawers m the upboard ersod, ich cupboard be replaced by three drawers, with one cupboard in the o In com he equipment of the kitchen, the number and kind of a: will IK- 1 the .ccs of those who occupy the house. Every one should n to have is not good . how pla uch better to buy necessary, and add articles of an ornamental character by The Kitchen Clock.— As the observance of time and adherence to ;s done in the i can be regarded as being completely fur ;ht-day dial. p only once a wc< Knglish eight-day clock be bought for 355., but a good kitchen Thr l> :.>ck is has to be mid DC able to do this without lace. 48 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT COOKING APPLIANCES. The last, but by far the most important of the kitchen requisites that we are called upon to consider is the apparatus which is used for cooking, heating water, etc., usually known as the kitchen range or kitchener, names which originally had a distinctive import, but which have lost much of their primary significence, and are now applied without much discrimination to cooking appliances of every kind, whether the fuel used be coal or gas. We will, how- ever, for the sake of clearness, use the terms kitchen range, kitchener, and gas range or stove, to indicate three widely marked varieties of cooking apparatus : (i) the kitchen range, being taken to imply a range, either open or close, that is fixed in its place with brickwork, etc., and is therefore immovable ; (2) the kitchener, a range that is entirely independent of all its surroundings, one which stands, usually raised on four low legs, on the hearth in the recess otherwise occupied by the kitchen range, movable in itself when necessary, but virtually a fixture through its weight and size ; and (3) the gas range or stove, like the kitchener really movable, though virtually a fixture for the same reasons, but differing from the kitchener, not only in form and in the kind of fuel used, but also in the fact that it need not, like the kitchener, of necessity be placed on the hearth, that the chimney may be utilized as a means of escape for smoke and the various products of combustion, but may be placed in any part of the kitchen convenient for the purpose. The Kitchen Range. — Kitchen ranges may be distinguished as close and open, the chief point of difference between them being in the construction of the fire-grate or box in which the fuel used for heating purposes is burnt. In the open range the fire-grate is uncovered at the top, and forms a cavity, enclosed by the boiler and oven at the sides and back, by a grating of close bars at the bottom, and by parallel horizontal bars, about one inch square in section, placed from one and a half to two inches apart in front. The fire in the open range, gener- ally speaking, can be made larger or smaller at pleasure by means of a movable check attached to a notched bar which is fixed at right angles to its surface on one side of it, and moved backwards and for- . wards by means of a small cog-wheel, to a greater or less distance from the fixed side of the grate, as may be found necessary. In the close range the fire-chamber is inexpansive, closed in front cither wholly or partially by an iron door, and covered in at the top by an iron plate, movable, and generally in two parts, namely, a circular plate, dropping into and filling an opening in a square plate, the size of the top of the fire box. At the back there is a fire-brick moulded into shape. Close ranges are now chiefly used, but open ranges are to be met with in the country and in some towns in the North and in houses that have been built for some years, and in which the open range that was originally fixed in the kitchen, still remains, THE KITCHKN 49 Open Ranges. — The closed stove with its movable grate and many con- trivances lor the disposal ami regulation of heat is an invention of r but the open fire with some primitive arrangement for cooking . or by the side of it, dates back to a remote age. In the p< M.I districts on the cast and west coasts of Hngland, cooking is still carried on under what appear to us almost impossible conditions, i.e. by means of a peat fire, burning on a stone hearth, with a wide chimney above it. In nearly all the houses the back kitchen or scullery is provided with a brick oven, in which bread and joints of meat may be baked ; but by reason of the cost of extra fuel, time and trouble em the heating of this oven is a weekly, or at most, a bi-weekly occur- rence, and on other days culinary operations are confined to the open kitchen fire. Vegetables and puddings are cooked in saucepai pots, as they are described in the local dialect, suspended over the tire ; the means of suspension being a rigid bar of iron, fixed in the 1 wall of the chimney, and supplied with strong hooks of varying length, to allow the vessels to be raised or lowered to any height above the lire. All the culinary utensils are provided with half-circular handles i over the top like the handle of a k il running from side i of from back to front. 1 e also a large oval iron vessel, which they term a " hang-OVe: and use for baking and cakes. It has a depressed lid, like a braizin which is Idled with hot peat ; and in tins • is applied from above and below. A similar ve^el. called a pot." ided from a tripod of three bars of iron or hard wood. One only could be U .t the point where the rods we !. and oded a large cauldron used for the various purposes of tg and stewing. Cakes were baked and fish cooked in an pan, which was probably the of the North-count ry Idle " or " gi: :e-histon .-arly Hrr ttg mainly on milk, fruit, herbs and other products of the Kind, the built >od on hearths formed of ro B* ; and K supposed that the agreeable odour of the : ammils tirst sugge- xxl ; but until th< the Romans abolished Druidisin by force, the inh. M would not i commit wh.it would have Ix^e- d a terrible sacnl the fact, but it is highlv pr.-bablr that roasting in front of the fire was one of t! i the fourteenth century. They turned bv han •! ; but I 50 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT cage in which he was enclosed. The smoke- jacks, which are still found in the kitchens of some old country-houses, were next introduced ; these were turned by means of the smoke from the fire. The brass bottle- jack, still in use, is a mechanical contrivance, which, when wound up, revolves, carrying with it the joint of meat or whatever may be attached. The open range is said to have only one strong point in its favour, namely, that it will roast in front of the fire ; but this one point is sufficient to recommend it for all time to those who use it. Nothing will ever induce the North-country people to dis- card their open ranges ; although many supplement them with a gas stove, to make easier the cook's work as regards frying and sauce- making. As for the open ranges in the cottages, it is questionable whether they burn more coal than a close stove of the same capacity, for the careful housewife has various contrivances for reducing the consumption of fuel when the fire is not needed for roasting or baking purposes. Moreover, an oven heated from below is better adapted to the requirements of people who always have home-made bread and cakes ; and who prefer baked hot-pots and meat stewed in an earthen- ware pot in the oven, to the more liquid and less savoury stews made in a saucepan. Apart from the question of economy, the well- con- structed close ranges found in good kitchens have many strong points to recommend them ; but their various adjustments to facilitate the disposal and regulation of heat, and the movable fire-box by which the consumption of fuel is controlled, are characteristic of this par- ticular class of stoves, and are not found in the small close stoves sup- plied to artisan dwellings. And when the production of heat and the consumption of fuel cannot be controlled, a close stove may prove quite as wasteful as an open grate, and less satisfactory in other re- spects. Close Fire Ranges. — There is little doubt that " close fire " ranges were at first mostly used in Devonshire for the convenience of the hotplate over the top for scalding milk to obtain clotted cream, open ranges being then used in London and other parts of the United Kingdom. Gradually the use of the open range was abandoned for the Leamington range, which at one time may be said to have had it all its own way ; but now there are a variety of ranges, each claiming some special merit, and rendering it a matter of considerable difficulty to pick and choose between them. It may be said, however, that economy of fuel and cleanliness are the chief features of close ranges of all kinds, combined with efficiency of action, provided that the flues themselves, through which the smoke and soot pass off into the chimney, leaving considerable deposits in the passage, are kept per- fectly clean. Advantages claimed for Close Fire Ranges. — (i) Many saucepans and vessels may be kept boiling at one time, and at the proper point oi temperature. Till- K!'H Ml N 51 (2) Saucepans and other vessels last double the turn \\hen u^cd on of a closed st< (3) Saucepans and other vessels may be kept as cl< ;de as is consequently an immense saving of labour. (4) The fact of the entire range being covered by a hot-plate and the >t being exposed lessens the probability of having food smoked. (5) The hot-plate is well adapted for an ironing stove when not >r cookery purposes. (6) Close ranges are usually provid- -me simple contir m to be converted into slow » he fire may be kept burning all mable advantage when it r> necessary to :i the boiler hot. (7) The best types may be easily con ito an open range (8) The heat is easily regulated, and when provided with an adjust- able fire-box may be directed by a simple movement to the up. part of the oven as requr How to clean a Close Range. The oven door should be closed to out tl n door and window closed to prevent the ! the ashes and en All th nobs on a range not attached • be the tlues, and eat I doors must be o; AT A TIME, and the soot swept down with a brush const ; the purpo a long flexible handle and a head like a bottle-brush. : ;hest flue-door is located in the breast of th- v. and the mmence there. Usually a c<> !e amount 1 lodged a t be swept >ved from the lowest soot door. A ring away •ust be swept out and thoroughly washed soda, to he grease ; and when necessary, the front !y dry before applying the ;nore brilliant polish if i 1 with ad of water. The steel mouldings should be cleaned with ; nd emery powder, or when badly stained, with vii Construction of a Good Stove. — Both cooking-ranges and ccx are constructed of steel, malleable iron, wrought-iron and cast- Of these, the cast-iron stoves are the least expensive ; but i be recommended, because they are liable to crack ; they usually i- to imjx^rfect construction, frequently sm«-k \YelI-tMnxtructed stoves made of malleable are usuallv mr-ti-ht. uivc more evenly- . and arc altogether better in many respects. Good do not allow the gases and fumes of the coal, or the soot HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT to invade the oven ; and the fire-box and oven are protected from undue draughts which would affect the consumption of fuel or the temperature of the oven. No oven can satisfactorily roast and bake unless provided with a reversing damper by which the heat may be directed to the top or bottom of the oven as required. One or two of the best types have an adjustable fire-box, which may be lowered when an open fire is needed for roasting, or a good bottom heat for baking ; or raised when a top heat is desired in the oven, or the hot- plate only required for boiling and frying purposes. They have also well-ventilated ovens, whereby the proper flavour of the materials cooked is retained ; and fire-boxes fitted with vertical bars placed rather close together, but sufficiently narrow in section to allow any- thing to be properly cooked in front of the fire. There are many reliable firms who construct ranges on these principles ; and the annexed list of prices is an average of those of three of the best makers. Ranges of corresponding size and quality of the respective firms are fairly uniform in price ; but there is a wide difference in the cost of ranges of corresponding size made by individual firms, due chiefly to the expensive tiling and elaborate finish of the various details of some of the ranges, which improve their appearance but add nothing to their value in other respects. A good plain range, easily convertible into a close or open fire, fitted with an adjustable fire-box, plate rack, ventilating doors, reversing damper, patent cinder sifter, bright steel mouldings and bright steel bracket-shelves under the oven may be had at the following prices : — WIDE. HIGH. WITH ONE OVEN. WITH TWO OVENS. 3 ft. 6 in. 4 ft. 9 in. £lO 10 0 £12 o o 4 ft. 4 ft. 9 in. 1200 13 o o 4 ft. 6 in. 4 ft. 9 in. 13 10 o I ^ O O 5 ft. 4 ft. 9 in. 15 o o 16 10 o 5 ft. 6 in. 5 ft- 17 10 o 19 o o The Kitchener. — The term " range " has been used to distinguish the stove fixed in its place by brickwork from the stove or kitchener which may stand in any part of the room altogether independent of its surroundings except the connecting tube that carries away the products of combustion. This tube has a diameter of some eight or ten inches ; and where there is no chimney it must be carried to the outer wall and up the side of the house to a suitable level, otherwise there is a strong down-draught. When used in England, the stme is usually placed in or near the recess provided for a range, and the iron tube passes into the chimney. This arrangement is to be recommended, for the tube frequently becomes red -hot, and has often been a source L COOKING, ETC. BY ELECTRIC HEAT, L Double Hot Plate, Frying Pan, Small Range, Radiator (Stove), Stewpan, Radiator (Stove), Grill. THE KITCHEN 53 of great danger in the Canadian settlements where such stoves are largely used. The small portable stoves are made in different sizes ; the smallest is 21 inches long, two-thirds of its length being appropriated by an oven, and the remaining space by the fire-grate. The cost of such a stove is about 305. or 355. The Canadian Kitchener represents a more useful type of portable stove. The medium size costs from £4 los. to £$ los. The fire-box may be closed or opened as desired ; and its great depth, combined with the narrow bars, greatly facilitates the process of roasting. These stoves are frequently used in rooms where temporary cooking accom- modation is required ; and when properly constructed and provided with a good draught they may be pronounced satisfactory in many respects. The central ranges used in large kitchens are based on an altogether different principle. The flames from the burning coke or coal travel over the roof and down the sides of the oven into an underground flue, which runs to an outer wall, thence up the side of the building. COOKING BY GAS, OIL, AND ELECTRICITY Gas Stoves.— From the consideration of ranges in which cooki performed by the combustion of solid fuel, it is necessary to turn to those in which gas is the fuel employed. Cooking by gas has been much on the increase in late years, the gas companies in various localities lending all the aid in their power to further it by supplying their customers with gas stoves, or ranges, at a low annual rental. Cooking by Gas has much to recommend it. Gas kitcheners are compact, as no space has to be provided for furnace or ash-pit, are cleanly, causing no dust or smoke, and consequently can be kept in perfect order with little trouble. And they are easily managed even bv inexperi. -mod girls. The mere turning on of one or more taps ted match to the burner or hi;. tchener in workin without loss of time. Thus there is •my, as hid is only consumed when heat is actually reoi More- • rrature can be speedily produced .1 rol. an . vfilne to cook :nul hou e\vitr. As gas burners are provided for l>« . hot-plat.- ami x"IK ont r-.lleil. it is possible to prepare a large dinner on a gas kitchener with comfort, security and economy. ( >i late \ \ strides have been made in the d and construction of gas kitcheners, which now. with their enamelled OVenS, and tops, wrought Sted -nilim; bars, atmosplu-ric burners and oth.-r improvements. ha\e reached a Iii-h . m. \Vith dne< are, it is impossible to spoil a dinner on a: . Actual experi- ment has proved that meat and other food hi, and retains more >f its flavour when rooki-d l>v -as, than if cooked by «>al. It shown that me.it COoked in a «-al he.ited oven loses about 54 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT 35 per cent, of its weight, in a gas oven only 25 per cent. This immense" saving is no doubt due to the more evenly distributed and less fierce temperature. It is essential that gas kitcheners should be kept scrupulously clean. The enamelled parts inside and out should be rubbed down when cold with a sponge or cloth dipped in warm water, and then wiped dry. The gas burners should be kept free from dust. Any grease on the kitchener should be carefully removed. If these precautions are taken and the burners properly lighted, aJl disagreeable odours will be avoided, and certainty of results ensured. Advantages of Cooking by Gas. — There are many features to recommend cooking by gas, chief among which are — (1) Cleanliness, and the readiness by which the fire can be lighted and extinguished, facilities which are conducive to economy, because the fire need only be maintained when it is required for cooking. (2) It is economical in another respect, because meat cooked by gas has been found to lose less weight than when cooked in an oven heated by coal. (3) The heat can be readily and instantly regulated, being concen- trated precisely where required by means of the different burners, each of which is independent of the other. (4) Gas stoves are especially useful in summer and in small house- holds, where, during the greater part of the day, no fire is needed. (5) Saucepans and other vessels may be kept as clean outside as inside. (6) Cooking by gas is less heating, and consequently less tiring tc the person employed, than cooking by a coal-range. Construction of Gas Stoves. — The oven of a well- constructed gas stove is made either entirely of cellular cast iron and jacketed all over with slag wool, or it is made with a double casing with an intermediate hot- air jacket. This is necessary to prevent heat being conducted from the oven to the surrounding air. The gas-burners are not always inside the oven ; when they are, the oven should have no bottom, or if it has, there must be some provision made for admitting atmospheric air to mingle with the gas. The mixture of air and gas produc2S a bluish light ; when the light is yellow (while using the atmospheric burners) the stove is wrongly-constructed in this respect. or it has not been lit in a proper manner. The inside of the oven and the top of the stove should be lined with porcelain enamel, in order that it may be easily kept clean. The oven should be provided with some efficient means of ventilation, whereby the vitiated air may be carried away, and the mixed flavour which some- times pervades different materials cooked in the same oven may be obviated. The best stoves arc provided with a patent reversible grill which, when deflected downwards, may be used for grilling meat or toasting bn-a/JL The rings on the top of the THE KITCHEN 55 stove should be provided with ATMOSPHERIC burners, which produce a blue flame, a mixture of gas and air, of higher heating power consumption of less gas) than the white flame produced by the LUMIN- OUS burners. Gas Fires. — The great advantages of gas over coal fires consists in the complete absence of ashes and dirt ; in the fact that a bright hot fire can be obtained at any moment, night or day ; that the heat can be i ted at will, or the fire extinguished when not required ; in dispensing with the necessity of carrying coal into, and ashes and refuse out of, the room ; in the freedom of the atmosphere from dust, and the consequent saving in the matter of furniture dusting, curtain washing, etc. Against this must be reckoned the greater cost of gas fires as compared with coal for constant use ; but, notwithstanding this, there are few persons who have once used a good gas fire that could be per- suaded to return to the old method of heating. For bedrooms, and occasional using, a gas fire is always economical, as compared with coal ; in fact, the expense and great trouble of coal fires for bedrooms render their use sometimes prohibitory, whereas a good hot gas fire can be obtained for half an hour, night and morning, at a cost of 6d. per week or less. In the sick-room a gas fire is simply invaluable ; its steadiness, night and day, and the perfect control over the warmth of the room arc far above the possibilities of any coal fire. In sudden vncies the instant command of a good fire in the ni^ht is some- times a matter of life or death. In the bronchial affections common in this country warmed air is frequently of the utmost importance, and this can be obtained in moderate sized rooms by a gas stove pro- perly constructed, with a regularity and economy which cannot be approached by coal or coke. Where the family consists of only two or three persons, small but powerful open gas fires, with an oven over the fire to utilize the waste heat, will be found of the greatest value and economy, as they do away entirely with the dirt and labour of coal fires, and yet fill all the purposes of a small kitchen range. These irv now to be procured from any gas Company, hired from them, or obtained by the hire purchase system. Objections to Gas. — The objections to the use of gas as a fuel exist only where the wrong appliances are selected, or when no trouble is taken to learn their proper use. One of the most common causes of failure with gas fires is that they are purchased for use cither where there is no flue or whore the chimney has a down draught ; in such cases as these the faults which cause the failure of a coal lire will be equally unfavourable to a gas fire. Burners used for gas cookers must be kept clear and in good condition ; if choked with dirt and grease, they will be as un- satisfactory as burners used for lighting under the same conditions. and kettles must be kept clean outside, or they make an un- :iit smell, and ovens must \w kept clean inside for the same '-•-o for the sake of sweet flavours in the food. 56 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT Oil Stoves. — A well-constructed, cleanly kept and well-managed oil stove will cook food as well as any other stove of corresponding capa- city ; and with proper care there should be neither smoke nor odour from the flame. These stoves are sometimes a great convenience in places not within reach of gas. No flue is required for their use ; and being small they can be easily conveyed from place to place. Cooking on an oil stove may be done 20 per cent, cheaper than by any other means ; but unless the wicks are kept well-trimmed and the stoves properly managed, they emit a disagreeable smell and smoke. In a properly constructed stove there is not much danger from explosion, unless a light is, through carelessness, brought in contact with the oil. Cooking by Electricity is now quite practicable, though for the present decidedly expensive. The heat is obtained from the ordinary electric lighting mains, the current being made to pass through wires coiled on iron or steel plates, and embedded in enamel, having the same ratio of expansion and retraction as the metal. In this way the plates of ovens, sides of boilers, hot-plates and corrugated grills can be heated. Stewpaus and kettles are heated separately, these having double bottoms with the wires coiled between, *ind the current conveyed by flexible silk covered wires connected with a special fitting at the end of the handles. There is practically no loss of heat, as the electrical connexion is only made when cooking is in actual progress. The system also of course ensures freedom from dust and dirt, or undue radiatior in the kitchen. It may be mentioned that the King's yacht (constructed for her late Majesty, Queen Victoria) is fitted up with a complete electric* kitchen outfit, including soup and coffee boilers, hot- plates, ovens, grills and hot closets. As some municipalities are now supplying the electric current in the daytime at as low a rate as 2d. per Board of Trade unit, it is probable that cooking by electricity is destined to undergo a rapid development. CULINARY UTENSILS. Stewpans and Saucepans. — Stewpans and saucepans are usually, though not necessarily, circular in form, provided with a long handle, a lid or cover, and sometimes, in the smaller kinds, with a lip for the better and easier transference of its contents to another vessel. The term saucepan is applied indiscriminately to all kinds of saucepans and Stewpans ; but the name stewpan is generally used to denote the shallower pans with straight sides and flat long-handled covers ; it should never be applied to an iron saucepan. Stewpans arc made in copper ; wrought steel ; tin, enamelled inside and out ; and iron. Saucepans arc made in copper ; brass ; iron, tinned inside ; iron, enamelled inside ; block tin ; tin, enamelled inside and outside. Stewpans generally have straight sides ; but saucepans vary in THE KITCHEN 57 shape, as shown in the illustrations, as follows : — Their capacity and prices range DESCRIPTION. SIZE, In. in diutr. CAPA- « ITY. Pints. PRICE. Copper Stewpans and Covers, Best quality . Second 4 4 I I 6s. Best „ . . 5 2 i» Second 5 2 " Best 6 3 8s. yl. » Second ,, 6 3 75. gd. Best ,, . . 8 7 155. 3d. t> tf Second ,, . . 8 7 1 JS. 1 K/. ii „ • . 10 14 235. 9</. ft Secmid ,, 10 14 M . - i a 22 355. •id 12 Wrought Steel Stewpans with Tin I ' qlly. 4 I 35. 3<*. ti M ,, 5 2 ii ii i> • 3 ii ii 7 tt ii i . 8 7 , , 10 «4 M ti i _• 22 M >( .. 14 H Cast-Iron with r.l< >ck-Tin Covers, r.est quality A I f> f f t> 2 15. jf/. M , , i. 25. ,t 7* ,, 35. >( ii » M ,, » ,, ,, » M " ,. 12 The prices and capacity of saucepans ard other articles are taken lioin the illustrated catalogues and price lists of tli 'inns and stores in London. Enamelled saucepans are not often used in kitchens where much cooking is done. They are inexpensive but not durable ; they answer very well for boiling milk, but anything thick- ened with flour, if allowed to stand, quit kly burns at the bottom. The wroiiL;ht-s' pans arc more expensive but decidedly i I in the end. They ill the advantages of cupper \\ithuut .'n\ of its drawbacks ; they .in- easily kept clean, anything tncked m them !. and thickened sauces may be simmered in them for hours without injury, if occasionally stirred. The insidcs of the saucepans require re-tinning occasionally ; but when the tin oft they are as harmless as before, bcinjj made of steel. Cupper MIIS al^. air very durable ; in last a lifetime, and are 58 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT an ornament to the kitchen when kept beautifully clean, as they should be ; but this entails considerable labour, a point to be considered where few servants are kept. Copper utensils should be frequently examined and re-tinned as soon as the linings begin to show signs of wear. One of the objections to the use of copper for culinary pur- poses is its liability to become coated with verdigris, or copper-rust, under careless or unskilful hands — verdigris being a poison imparting its deadly properties to any food cooked in a vessel that is tainted with it. Boiler or Boiling Pot. — In large families this utensil comes into almost daily requisition. It is used for boiling large joints, hams, puddings, etc., and is usually made of iron. Boilers may be had in cast iron, tinned inside, to hold from 3 gallons to 7 gallons, at from 4.$. 9d. to i os., according to size ; in wrought iron, with bright cover, to hold from 4 gallons to 12 gallons, from 128. to 26s. The Digester. — This utensil is a kind of stock-pot, made of iron, having a lid which fits closely into a groove at the top of it. No steam escapes, therefore, by the lid ; and it is only through the valve at the top of the cover that the superfluous steam passes off. It is a very valuable utensil, inasmuch as by using it a larger quantity of wholesome and nourishing food may be obtained at much cheaper rates than is possible without it, and when bones are boiled in it its action will extract every nutritive particle from them, leaving nothing but the inorganic part of the bones. This utensil, when in use, should not be placed over a fierce fire, as that would injure the quality of the preparation ; for whatever is cooked must be done by a slow and gradual process, the liquid being just kept at the simmering point. These digesters are made in all sizes, and may be obtained to hold from 4 quarts to 16 quarts. The prices of digesters vary according to capacity, namely, to hold 4 quarts, 35. 9d.; 6 quarts, 55.; 8 quarts, 6s.; 10 quarts, 73.; 12 quarts, 8s.; and 16 quarts, IDS. 6d. The Stock-pot. — This article is used in the preparation of stock, which forms the foundation of soups, gravies, etc. Stock-pots are made in cop- per, wrought steel or iron. Copper stock-pots to hold 8 quarts, fitted with tap and strainer, are supplied in a good quality for about 425. 6d. The price of a stock-pot, of corresponding capacity, in wrought steel would be 2os. 9d. with tap and strainer, and 1 2S. 3d. without these conveniences. They may also be obtained in wrought iron and earthenware, the latter being specially suited to small households, because a smaller amount of heat is required to keep the contents at simmering point and the stock- pot need not be emptied every day. The tap and strainer add about 30 per cent, to the cost of a stock-pot, but the advantage of being able to draw off the stock from the bottom, leaving the fat and the bones, vegetables and other solids behind, is well worth the additional outlay. The Braising Pan. — This vessel is employed in a culinary process, THE KITCHEX 59 termed braising or braizing. In shape it may be cither round or oval, with a depressed lid in which hot charcoal is placed, whereby the meat is cooked between two slow fires. This method is said to develop more fully the flavours of materials cooked ; also to decrease the loss of strength and flavour by evaporation ; it is largely practised in France. In England the braising-pan is frequently placed in the oven in- stead of under charcoal, the latter article as a fuel being but seldom used. The Double or Milk Saucepan. This is, on a small scale, what the BAIN- MARIE is on a larger scale. The smaller saucepan fitting into the larger one is either lined with enamel or made of earthenware. The double saucepan is especially useful for making porridge and gruel, and boiling custards and milk. It may also be usefully employed in cooking tapioca, sago, semolina and other farinaceous substances, when the oven is being used for other purposes, and is too hot for the long, gentle process of cooking they require. When an egg is added to any of these pre- parations, it should be mixed in just before the pudding is put into the oven to brown. The double saucepan is supplied in four sizes, known as Nos. i, 2, 3, 4, and sold respectively at 33. 3d., 33. Qd., 43. 9d. and 6s. 6d. The lower saucepan is made of block tin, and when in use should be half filled with water, which must be replaced as it boils away, otherwise the upper saucepan is liable to crack. Steamers. — These articles consist of a cylinder of tin, tinned iron or copper, made to fit into the top of a saucepan and to carry the saucepan cover as its lid. The lower or saucepan portion varies in capacity from 6 to 14 pints, and the entire appliance is sold from 2S. 6d. to 43. 3d., according to size. Larger kinds, containing from 6 to 12 quarts, may also be obtained. Steamers are chiefly used in cooking potatoes and puddings, especially those containing meat or fruit. When the potatoes are sufficiently cooked, the water in the saucepan should be poured off and the steamer replaced. The heat from the saucepan below quickly causes the moisture remaining in the potatoes and the steamer itself to evaporate, thus converting the latter into a DRY HOT CLOSET, in which the cooking of the potatoes is completed. Even when boiled, potatoes are more floury when the water is drained off, and the cooking completed this way. It is possible to place one steamer above another, and, indeed, some steam-cookery vessels are constructed to carry four or six steamers, a contrivance being provided to prevent steam from one department invading another. The Turbot Kettle and Salmon Kettle. — This variety of fish-kettle is arranged to suit the shape of the fish from which it takes its name. It is shallow, very broad, and is fitted inside with a drainer similar to that in other fish-kettles. Turbot-kettles are usually supplied in three sizes known as small, middle and large. These sizes, in block-tin, strong, arc supplied at us.. MS. and iSs. od. The salmon kettle is a long, narrow utensil, like the fish-kcttlc, but the cover has a handle at 60 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT each end instead of one only in the middle. They are made in copper, with draining plates, in sizes from 20 inches to 30 inches in length The Fish Pan, or Kettle. — This utensil is fitted with a drainer inside, which is lifted when the fish is sufficiently cooked. The drainer is then laid across the kettle, and the fish lifted on to the dish with the fish-slice — a perforated plate attached to a long handle, sold at is., is. 3d. and is. 6d., according to size. Fish kettles are longer than they are wide, and are made either with handles at the side, or with a swing handle, like that of a pail. The former is the more convenient shape, on account of the facility which the two handles at the ends afford for putting the kettle on the range or taking it off. Prices range from 35. 6d. to 95. for kettles in strong block- tin plate, and from 153. to 425. for iron kettles. Copper fish kettles, from 16 inches to 22 inches, are supplied at prices ranging from 453. to 853. The mackerel-kettle, or saucepan, which will serve as a fish-kettle for all long fish, such as whiting, haddock, etc., and for soles and small plaice, is an elongated saucepan, with cover, and having a long handle on one side and an iron looped handle opposite to it on the other side. It is made in three sizes, sold respectively at 33., 45. and 53. Fish Fryer and Drainer. — This is an admirable contrivance for frying fish, by using which an experienced cook is much more likely to insure success and send a dish of fried fish properly to table. It is in shape not unlike a preserving-pan fitted with a closely-made wire drainer ; and in this the fish is placed and lowered into the heated fat. As in frying fish it is necessary to have a large amount of fat, the depth of this kettle gives it a considerable superiority over the ordinary frying-pan. There is, besides, very little danger of the fish breaking, for being lifted up on the drainer when done, it is easily dished. Cooked in this manner the fish does not require turning, as the fat quite covers it, and of course browns it on both sides at once. The greasy moisture, too, is more effectually got rid of. Fat-pans with drainers may be obtained from a good ironmonger at the following prices : — Extra Strong Copper, with Drainer : — i4-in. i5-in. i6-in. ij-in. 18 in. l\ 16 o £200 £2 5 o ^280 £2 14 o Strong Wrought Steel: — i2-in. ij-in. 14-in. i5-in. i6-in. i7-in. i8-in. us. us. 6d. 135. 153. i6s. 6d. i8s. 6d. £i o o Wire Vegetable Strainer.— This useful article consists of a wire frame, round which thinner wire is coiled and fastened. It is made to fit inside a stewpan or saucepan, and thus forms a convenient utensil in which to boil vegetables and to lift them at once out of the water ; or Till- KITCHEN 61 for frying whitebait, or parsley or sliced vegetables for soups, etc. in sizes from 6 inches to 10 inches in diameter, and sold at prices from 28. ^d. to ;-., according to size. The Frying-pan. — This article is so well known that it is only necessary to mentio: sizes and prices. They may be had either round .1 in form, with shelving sides ; the round pans being made in ng from -j\ inches to 9 inches at from (;(!. to is. 2d. The oval pans, which arc more commonly use made in sizes from \\\ inches to 15 inches in length, and are supplied from is. to 2S. The Omelet Pan.— This pan is a variety of the frying-pan, and gener- ally made circular in form, but si. than the frying-pan, f. nee in turning pancakes, omelets, etc. These pans are m bright polished wrought iron, :n one piece, from to i«> in diameter, and sold from 55. to 8s. 3d. Bowl omcl< made 8 i: 1 10 inches m di.i- •Id at 75., 8s. and <;s. each. Co; with bui: iron handles, range from 6J inches to 16 inches in din M are sold t: ! of the - bh rounded or bowl bottoms for souffles, arc made 8 inches, 8} inches and 9 i in d; 6d., los. 6d. and i is. 6d. each. The Fricandeau or Cutlet Pan. I : A ith upi i . fr.'in 7 •« i.} in. nhng t<> in the ' . ; -lite pan I . •n the om< .tndle nv : ranging from 7 inches to 14 . and sold at \ \\\ 6s. 6d. to 203. A /es, 8 inches, 9 inches and 10 inches in d: extra •n-l fur: fricandeau-pan, are sold at '5s. and ;>"•>. Bain-Marie Pan and Stewpans, etc. — The bain-marie is not used so murh :o be found n In sei Urge dinner : .ist useful ami •A ith lx.il r and range or kitchener. The sau« containing rs, etc., stand in the water, and • intents at a proper heat without any risk of burning or loss of flavour. If the hour of dinner is uncertain in any no means of preserving the warmth and flavour of the ! is so sure and harmless as the cm] 09 re- soup- pot, and from 4 to to 5j 62 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT inches. A complete set of 7 strong, well-made tin stewpans, i glaze- pot and i soup-pot, in a bain-marie pan of wrought steel, may be obtained for £2. Or, the same number of utensils in wrought steel, fitted in a bain-marie pan, 16 x 12^ inches, would coet ^3 133.; and in the best quality of copper £6. Larger sizes may be bought at a corre- sponding increase in price. Warren's Cooking Pot is a vessel in three divisions, in which meat and vegetables may be cooked at the same time, but in separate compart- ments. The peculiarity of the process consists in cooking without the viands coming in contact with water or steam ; the meat, kept from water entirely, is cooked in an inner cylinder, the outer one containing the water, being kept at boiling point. The food thus prepared is cooked in its own vapour, and none of its nutritious pro- perties are wasted. These utensils are also convenient where cooking space is limited, and economical when cooking by gas, because one ring of burners would serve instead of two or three. The price of the round saucepan is from 75. 9d. to 203., and the smaller size in the oval cooking pot costs 2 is. The Bottle-jack. — The action of this familiar piece of kitchen furni- ture, so called from its resemblance to an ordinary glass bottle, is so well known that very little explanation is needed. When the joint is hooked on, the jack requires winding up, an operation which must be repeated once or twice during the time the meat is cooking. A bottle- jack complete, capable of carrying a joint of 20 Ibs., may be had for 6s. gd. This bottle- jack is large enough for ordinary family use ; but larger sizes, to carry from 25 to 70 Ibs. may be had from 8s. 6d. to 2os. In cases of necessity it may be dispensed with, and a suspender formed of a skein of worsted, knotted here and there throughout its length, used instead. Meat Screen. — When the meat is roasting a meat-screen should be placed in front of the fire, to concentrate and reflect the radiated heat as much as possible. It is made of tin, 3 feet in width, and costs 128. 9d. to 1 55. 3d. Round screens known as bottle- jack screens, having bands at the top, from which the bottle-jack is suspended, and a dripping- pan in the bottom, are sold in three sizes, varying in price, according to stoutness of make, as follows : No. i, from 123. 6d. to 26s. ; No. 2, from 155. 9d. to 253.; and No. 3, from 193. 6d. to 303. The Dripping-pan. — This is a receptacle for the droppings of fat and gravy from the roast meat. In some cases it forms an integral part of the meat screen, but when it is separate from it, it is supported on an iron stand. The pan is arranged with a well in the centre, covered with a lid, and round this well is a series of small holes, which allow the dripping to pass into the well free from cinders or ashes. When the meat is basted, the lid of the well is lifted up. The basting- ladle used to apply the dripping to the meat is half covered over at the top with a piece of metal perforated with small holes, so that THE KITCHEN 63 should a small piece of cinder get into the ladle it will lodge there and not fall on the meat. Dripping-pans of block tin, with wells, are made in four sizes, ranging in price from 25. to 35. 6d. Wrought iron stands for these dripping-pans cost from 35. to 45., and bast- ing ladles from is. to 2s. Extra strong wrought iron dripping- pans with wells, and mounted on wrought iron legs, range in size from 2 feet 6 inches to 4 feet in length, and cost from 335. to 905., according to size. Strong wrought iron basting ladles to accompany these ap- pliances are made in three sizes, namely, 4, 4^ and 5 inches in diameter, costing 73. 6d. 8s. 6d. and los. 6d. respectively. Double Baking-pan and Stand. — Closely akin to the dripping-pan used in open-fire roasting is the double baking-pan and stand used in ranges and kitcheners for baking meat, poultry, etc. These are usually supplied with ranges and kitcheners when first purchased ; but some- times it is necessary to renew them. The lower pan contains water which ma v be added through the opening in the lower right-hand corner, nuule by a depression in the inner pan ; the JK -i -fWated shield or hood, cover- ing th'.' opposite- corner being used for pouring off the dripping. These -ire supplied in oblong form, from 13 inches to 18 inches in length, at prices ranging from 35. Qd. to 73. 6d.; or square, from u inches 6 inches, from 45. to 75. It may be added that single pans arc supplied in the above sizes, oblong, from is. 2d. to 2S.; and square, from is. 4d. to 2s. The Gridiron. — This utensil, which in its ordinary form consists of a frame supported on four short legs, one at each corner, and with round bars from front to back, and a handle at the back of the frame, is used for broiling purposes of all kinds. The round bar gridiron is made with from 8 to 12 bars, according to size, and is sold at from lod. to is. 3d. Hanging Gridiron. — The hanging gridiron consists of a double frame, similar in form to the bed or platform of the ordinary gridiron. Below the frames is a small trough or pan, in which the dripping or gravy running from the meat is taught, and above, the centre bars in each frame project upwards, forming the means of keeping the frames together when the meat is placed between them, by a wire ring, square in form, that is slipped over them. The hanging gridiron is suspended before the fire, on bars fastened to hooks, which slip over the top bar of the range. Hooks are attached to the inner frame to take slices of bacon, chops, steaks, etc., when placed between the frames, and to keej) them in a proper position. These gridirons are made of wrought iron with from 8 to 12 bars, and are sold at 35. 6d. and 55. each, accord- lo size. American Grip Broiler and Toaster. — This grilling utensil is most useful and desirable for broiling steaks, chops, fish, etc. It is made of polished with perforation in both plates, having their edges turned in- wards. Thus it may be turned over on the lire without the escape and 64 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT consequent loss of any of the fat or gravy coming from the meat, etc., the basting process being self-acting, and the flavour of the meat, etc., being fully retained. The perforations being turned inwards, grip the meat or fish firmly, and prevent any motion from one part of the pan to another. By frequent turning the gravy, etc., is distributed over the upper surface of the meat or fish, while the under side is being acted on by the heat, and thus uniform tenderness and juiciness of the food that is being cooked is insured. It is suitable for use in the openings on the top of a cooking range or kitchener, or on the hot- plate of a close fire range or over the open fire, and it may be used as a bread toaster on the hot-plate or in front of the fire. It is made in two sizes, namely, 9 inches in diameter, sold at 2s., and 10 inches, at 2S. 6d. Dutch Oven. — The Dutch oven, or bacon broiler or toaster, is made in different shapes, but the principle and purpose of each is precisely the same, and consists of a flat bottom with triangular sides rising from it at each end. The bottom is fitted with a shallow dripping- pan, over which, with the ends inserted near the top of each triangular sidepiece, is a bar with hooks arranged at regular intervals. On the external surface of each side is a handle, by which the utensil may be placed on or removed from the plate hanger, which consists of a sliding plate on two bars, -terminating in hooks in front, to hang on the bars of the range. Attached to the sides of the Dutch oven at the very apex of each, is a cover, or flap, which, in consequence of being fixed on a swivel, may be used on either side. The advantage of this rever- sible cover is that by turning the utensil round on the plate hanger and reversing the flap, each side of the meat or bacon that is being cooked can be presented to the fire quickly, without turning it on the hooks. Prices vary according to size ; one 10 inches long, and fitted with four or five hooks, would cost 2s. 6d. ; 12 inches, 2s. 9d.; 14 inches, 33. 6d. Toast Grid. — The toast grid for toasting bread is a utensil used for toasting bread on the hot-plate of a range ; but if the front of an open- fire range be large enough, and the heat sufficient, it may be used there with equal convenience and facility. It consists of two frames covered with wire, between which the bread is placed ; the frames are supplied with wire handles, which can be held together with a sliding ring. These grids are sold at is. 3d. and is. Qd. UTENSILS AUXILIARY TO COOKING. Auxiliary Utensils. — To describe everything that it is possible to intro- duce into the kitchen for use therein is neither practicable nor desirable. From the thousand and one articles, however, that might be enu- merated, some few may be selected that hold a prominent place either from the frequency with which they are brought into use, or from the obvious necessity that exists for having them at hand when required. KITCHEN UTENSILS. i. Bottle K.Mstiim I. irk. j. Mincing Knife, or Suet Chopper. 3. Mrat Chopper. 4. Frvin- Pan-*. Meat Cover. <•. Pestle and Mortar. 7- Mincing or Sausage M ichiiu-. with Fable Clamp. S. I)««ubh' Uakia- I'.ui. with M-.it Stand. 9. Drip Pan. with Iia>tin.; L ulle. 10. Bottle Jack Roast i KITCHEN UTENSILS. i. Household Weighing Machine. 2. Oval Boiling Pot. 3. Turbot Kettle. 4. Copper Preserving Pan. 5. Fish Kettle. 6. Bain Marie Pans. 7. Iron Stockpot with Tap. 8. Saucepan and Steamer. 9. Steak Tongs. 10. Fish Slice. 8 THE KITCHEN 65 Weights and Scales. — Our list of utensils may well start with this most important article or series of articles, as a good set of weights and scales is absolutely necessary to every cook. The cook should bear in mind always to put the weights away in their respective places after they have been used, and to keep the scales in thorough order. In weighing butter, lard, or anything that is of a greasy nature, a piece of paper should be placed in the scale before putting in the substance to be weighed. By doing this much labour will be saved. There are many reliable kinds of weighing machines, but the ordinary shop scales and weights still remain the most popular, and the price of a set of weights and scales, with weights sufficient to weigh from ± oz. to 14 Ibs., is i8s. 6d., and to weigh 28 Ibs., 225. 6d. Spring balances to weigh up to 200 Ibs. cost about us. and will often be found a great convenience. Mincing Machine. — This time- and labour-saving invention is almost in- dispensable in elaborate culinary preparations. The intending purchas. i has a wide choice as regards price, size and variety in form. Although the principle is practically the same in all machines, they ditler in many rosjvets some doing their work more thoroughly than othe being more easily adjusted and kept clean. The " American Two- Roller Mincer" is to be highly recommended in this respect, because the rollers arc lined with enamel, and the knives so arranged that they may be easily cleaned. These machines are made in several sizes in two qualities, and may be procured at any ironmonger's, and cost from os. nil. to I2s 6d. Ordinary mincing machines may be obtained at from |s. 3d. Mincing machines answer admirably for quenelle meal, i, etc., when- the meat is mixed with other ingredients ; but meat to be served as ci.llops or mince is better cut by hand, as the parti- meat must i ite for th« . not crushed into a line mass. Suet may be more quickly and --rily chopped on a board or in a bowl than by a mincing machine, for, no matter how much flour is mixed with it, the suet sticks to the blades of the knives and forms itself into a compact mass. There are. 1.. . < hopping machines in which the knife acts on the material on the same principle as chopping by hand. They are not gem-rally used in small households, but in hens where mu< h chopping of this description has to be done, they are most •;il. Brawn Tin. --This utensil is invaluable in preparing brawn or collard he, id. It is a tin cylinder placed on a foot or stand, into which the superfluous grai B when the meat is placed in tin- cylinder and put under pressure. For this purpose the bottom of the cylinder consists of a movable perforated plate. The cylinder is not soldered along the junction of the ends of the metal of which it is composed, but the ends overlap, and are movable, one over the other, to a certain extent. By this means the cylinder is rendered expansive and will expand from (>\ inches in diameter to S inches. It is sold at .js. nd. Tongue or Brawn Presser. Tins article may be used for making either 66 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT brawn or collard head, like the brawn tin last described ; or it may be used for compressing boiled tongue into a round, in which shape it is most conveniently sent to table, and moreover ensures an equal dis- tribution of the fat and lean, which is not the case if the tongue be sent up unpressed, when the greater part of the fat in the root of the tongue is sent away uneaten. There is a perforated plate at the bottom through which the gravy escapes, and a flat plate acted on by a powerful screw at the top, by which the contents of the presser are squeezed to flatness. A good presser may be bought for 43. 6d. Rotary Bread Grater. — This machine grates or crumbles the bread without leaving a particle of waste, and will do a small quantity. The crumbs made by this process are much finer than when made on an ordinary bread grater. This grater is only made in one size and quality ; the price complete is 53. 6d. The ordinary bread grater has smaller perforated plates attached to the side for grating nutmeg, ginger, etc., and is supplied at prices ranging from 6d., according to size. Steak Tongs. — When meat is being broiled or grilled, to prevent the juices of the steak from being lost by pricking the meat with a fork, in turning it about on the gridiron, steak tongs are brought into requisition for handling the steaks during the process. By making use of these the gravy is kept in the meat. These are supplied at prices ranging from 2S. upwards. A cutlet bat is sometimes used for beating cutlets, chops, etc. ; steaks, if beaten, are beaten with the rolling-pin. The Meat Chopper is used for chopping and disjointing bones. Their price varies from is. 6d. to 2s., according to size. Meat choppers have wood handles. Steel cleavers have handles of steel, that is to say, blade and handle are made all in one piece. They are sold at from 33. 6d. to 43. 6d., according to size. Meat Saw. — A meat saw is used for sawing bones in places where a chopper is not available. For instance, this utensil would come into requisition where a knuckle of ham is required to be severed from the thick end. The meat would first be cut all round down to the bone with a sharp knife, and the bone would then be sawn through. Good meat saws are sold at from 2s. 6d. Cook's Knife. — The knives generally used by cooks are made very pointed at the end ; and for cookery purposes the slightly convex blades are preferable to those of ordinary shape. They are made 6 inches, 7 inches, 8 inches, 9 inches, 10 inches, 1 1 inches and 12 inches in length, and cost in the best quality from 2s. to 43. each, according to length of blade ; and from rod. to is. icd. in the second quality. Both varieties have plain ebony handles. Cook's forks are made to match the knives ; they are larger and stronger than ordinary forks, and, therefore, better suited for lifting masses of meat, etc., out of a saucepan. Prices vary from is. to 2S. each, according to length of prong ; the average &nd most convenient size cost about 2S. or 2s. 6d, THE KITCHEN 67 French Chopping Knife. — The chopping knife is similar in shape to the cook's knife but of much stronger make. It may be had in two sizes, each made in two qualities, and costing respectively 35. or 35. gd., with blades measuring 9 inches and 6s. or 6s. 6d., with blades 2 inches longer. Mincing Knife. — A knife for chopping suet or mincemeat on a wooden board. As it is made with a firm wooden handle, the hand does not become so tired as when usintj an ordinary knife on a board ; and the chopping is accomplished in a much shorter time. These imple- ments should be kept sharp, and should be ground occasionally. There is also a knife half-circular in form used for chopping materials in a wooden bowl. A good mincing knife in either form is suppl; <>d. Chopping Bowl and Board. — For chopping suet, meat, etc., with the half- circular knife a wooden bowl should be provided. They are made from 10 inches to 1 6 inches in diameter, the smallest size being is. 6d.; but that is too small to be generally useful, a more convenient size is the bowl measuring 13 inches, supplied at 45. A chopping board costs abou t Colander. — This useful article comes into daily requisition. The most convenient and strongest form is that of a round tin basin with handles, perforated at the bottom and round the sides with small holes. It is used for straining vegetables, these being poured into • -lander when they arc cooked, and allowed to remain for a minute or two until all the v. drained from them, when they are dished. Colanders, or cullenders, as the word is some- spelt, are made in four sizes, supplied in tin at from is. 3d. to 2s. 6d. each, according to size. They are also to be had in strong tin enamelled inside and outside from is., according to size. They possess all the advantages of cleanliness, freedom from rust, etc., of perforated earthenware basins, without their liability to be cracked or broken. Pestle and Mortar. — Pestles and mortars are made of iron, brass, marble and Wedgwood ware. Those of marble or Wedgwood \\an- lly to be preferred, as they can be easily kept clean. This is used for pounding sugar, spices and other ingredients required in manv ; ns of the culinary art. Potted meat is >oked. minced anil then pounded in a mortar; and many must be pounded before they can be rubbed through a s and mo; >n, are made in M ig from 7 to 10 inches, taking the diameter of the top of the mortar, and are sold at i; : 1. to 33. 3d., according to size. These include Me mortars range in size from 10 inches '>d. to 95. 3d. Pestles of hard- io be u-^-il with these mortars, cost from 2S. upwards, 68 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT Preserving Pans. — Jams, jellies, marmalades and preserves are made in these utensils, which should be kept scrupulously clean, and well examined before being used. Copper preserving pans range in size from n inches to 18 inches in diameter, in capacity from 5 quarts to 21 quarts, and in price from 145. to 295. Preserving pans in enamelled cast iron are sold at from 33. 6d. upwards, according to size. Vegetable Cutters. — Vegetables are cut into fanciful shapes, by means of these little cutters. Stewed steaks and such dishes, in which vege- tables form an important addition, are much improved in appear- ance by having these shaped. The price of a box of assorted vegetable cutters ranges from 2s. 3d. to 45. 6d. Fancy cutters are sold at 2d. to 6d. each. These cutters can be made useful in ornamenting pastry, or cutters especially made for pastry can be had at 3d. each, or in boxes from is. 6d. to 2S., according to make. Vegetable Scoop. — This implement is used for cutting vegetables into small, pea-shaped forms. It is supplied at a cost of 6d. Cucumber Slice. — For shredding cucumbers into the thinnest possible slices, a little machine is often used. It is made of wood, with a steel knife running across the centre, and sold at 2s. After the cucumber is pared it should be held upright, and worked backwards and forwards on the knife, being borne sufficiently hard to make an impression on the cucumber. Paste-Board and Rolling Pin. — Paste-boards of average size, made of well-seasoned deal, with clamped ends, are supplied at 2S. 6d. or 35. 6d. When not in use they should be kept in a clean dry place, other- wise they may become mildewed, and the stains thus caused are in- delible. Rolling-pins are made in two shapes, convex, that is, taper- ing towards each end, and perfectly straight. The shaped ones may be very dexterously employed by a skilful cook in shaping pastry and dough ; but novices in this branch of the culinary art should select a straight rolling-pin. Both shapes are supplied at from 4d. to is., according to size, and the quality of the wood. The best qualities are made from well-seasoned Indian boxwood ; a rolling pin of this de- scription, measuring 18 inches in length, costs 2S. 3d. Sieves. — Sieves, both hair and wire, are made in various sizes, but they are inconvenient unless large enough to fit easily over large basins, into which soup is usually sieved or strained. The hair sieves are used prin- cipally for vegetable purees and other substances of a sufficiently fine soft nature to allow them to be readily passed through. Some of the fibre of meat, after being well pounded, may be rubbed through a li.iir sieve,but with a considerable expenditure of time and strength, therefore a fine wire sieve is usually selected for this purpose. A fine wire sieve is also used in making breadcrumbs. Sieves of suitable size and mesh for ordinary purposes may be had for 6d. to is. 2d. Paste Jaggers. — These are used for trimming and cutting pastry. THE KITOIKN 69 The little wheel at the end of the jagger is mad I e. and is used for marking pastry which has to be divided after it is baked. The of a jagger is from 6d. to is. 6d. Coffee and Pepper Mills. — Intent improved mills for grinding coffee, pepp<. etc., may be had to fix permanently to the wall, or temporarily to the kitchen table or dressers. They are provided with a regulating screw, to grind fine or coarse, as may be desired. They .ade in four sizes, and cost from 35. to os. each. Wire Dish Corer.— This is an article belonging strictly to the larder, and is intended for covering over meat, pastry, etc., to protect it from flies and dust. It is a most necessary addition to the larder, especially in summer time. These covers are made in sizes ranging from 10 jo inches in length, and sold at prices rising from is, jd. to !., according to sue. Round plate covers in the same material are supplied at from is. 3d. Wire meat safes, japanned, 16 in.. : in. and ^4 in. square, are supplied at from 2OS, \\ h panels of perforated zinc, 24 in., 27 in. and square, are s«>Kl at from 95. 6d. Knife Tray, Plato Basket and Plate Carrier.— A knife tray should be ^ dose at hand all knives in :i tin, sold at 2s. od. to 3$. od., according to sire, is very easily washed, and will always appear clean and in nice order, if properly looked after. Japanned trays, equal I and scr- :nay be had, single, with round corners, at from 2S. to .vith square corners, from 2S, 6d. to 8s. V :<>r spoons, forks, etc., lined with baize, are suppl four sizes from 2S. 6d. to $s. each ; and wicker plate carriers for unlined. at . :ied with tin. 6s, The tin, it japanned, costs ios. 6d. A asket for the reception oi been used and removed from table, with loose v and lined with tin, is supplied in three sizes at 45. to 6s. 6d. Baking Dish.— Many housewives prefer for family pies and puddings a baking dish made of tin, which may be covered with a wire grating. so that it may be used for baking meat and potatoes, the latter being i in the dish and the meat on the wire grating. Seamless baking- pans, in all forms, oblong, square, round and oval, may be had in sizes ranging from 4 to ^o inches, at prices from $d. to ding to size. Tartlet Pans.— The trimmings of pastry rolled out, laid in a tartlet pan. and baked, form the foundation of open tarts. The pans are nv cs, from 6 inches to 12 inches in length, with plain or fluted edges, at prices ranging from 2d. to is. 6d., according to size and Patty-pans,— These are made of tin, and used for cheese-cakes, little tarts, mince-pies, etc. Some are fluted and some plain, and are manufactured in all sizes and of different shapes, bot 70 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT and round. The price of a dozen patty-pans, in tin, ranges from 2d. upwards, according to size and shape. Raised Pie Mould. — The moulds in which raised pies are made open at the side, with loose bottom plates. They are usually, though not necessarily, oval in shape ; they are made from 6 inches to 1 1 inches in length ; and the smallest size is supplied in strong tin at 25. to 33. Border Mould. — This mould measures 7 inches in length, 2^ inches in height ; its capacity is i^ pints, and its price in copper, lined with pure tin, 8s. Very effective designs may now be obtained in strong tin from lod. upwards. Coffee and Tea Canisters, etc. — Japanned tin is the metal of which canisters for tea and coffee are composed. The flavour of the tea and the aroma of the coffee may be preserved by keeping them in tin canisters. The prices of these canisters, to hold from 2 oz. to 6 lb., range from 6d. to 33., according to size. Among other boxes, made in tin and japanned, for the reception of articles of daily use and consumption may be named SEASONING BOXES, at 35., 35. 6d. and 43. 6d., according to size ; SPICE BOXES at 2S., 2S. 6d. and 33., accord- ing to size ; SUGAR BOXES, square in shape, with division, in five sizes without drawer to receive pounded sugar dropping from divisions through perforated bottom, from 2S. 9d. to 93. 6d. ; or in three sizes with drawers, from 6s. 6d. to IDS. Round SUGAR CANISTERS, holding from i lb. to 6 lb., are sold at from 8d. to 43. 6d., according to size ; and FLOUR BINS, bright tin inside and japanned blue with black hoops outside, ranging in capacity from i gallon to 3 bushels, are supplied at from 33. 6d. to 28s., according to size. Hot-water Dish. — In cold weather such joints as venison, a haunch, saddle or leg of mutton should always be served on a hot-water dish, as they are so liable to chill. This dish is arranged with a double bottom which is filled with very hot water just before the joint is sent to table, and so keeps that and the gravy hot. Although an article of this description can scarcely be ranked as a kitchen utensil, still the utility of it is obvious. Hot-water dishes may be had, made entirely of metal, of various sizes from 2 is. upwards, or in nickel, electro-plated, at higher prices. Hot- water plates range in price from is. 6d. upwards. Gravy Strainer. — One of these is absolutely indispensable. One variety is like an inverted cone with the pointed end cut off, having a handle attached to it, and a plate perforated with very fine holes, or piece of wire netting, at the bottom, below which is a rim on which it stands. It is made in three sizes, with fine or coarse bottom, sold at is. 6d.,. is. 9d. and 2S. each, according to size. Another kind is made in the form of a cone ; but this, of course, will not stand by itself, terminating; as it does in a point. It is made in three sizes, with fine or coarse netting, sold at lod. to 2s. 6d., according to size. Egg Poacher. — When eggs are much used in a family, an egg poacher THE KITCHEN 71 forms a desirable addition to the utensils of the kitchen. These are made in different forms, the ordinary poacher being in the form of a circular tin plate, with three or four depressions, to contain the eggs, and with an upright handle rising from the centre. The plate is sup- ported by feet, on which it stands when lowered into the saucepan. Poachers for three eggs are sold for is. 4d. ; for four eggs at is. i id. Cask Stand. — For beer it is desirable to have a stand by which the cask may be raised or lowered without shaking its contents. The lever cask stand will be found most useful for this purpose. This stand is, perhaps, the best that has yet been produced, its action being very simple and easy to understand. The price of stand for a 9-gallon cask is 6s. ; for an iS-gallon cask, 8s. Beer Tap. — The best kind of tap for home use is the brass syphon beer tap, which requires no vent-peg, and is fitted with a protector in front, to receive the blows of the mallet in tapping a cask. The protector may be unscrewed to clean the syphon tube when it is in the cask. Another improvement consists in the self-acting tube being brought down close to the mouth of the jug, glass or vessel into which the beer is drawn. Directions for keeping the tap in order are given to the purchaser. This tap is sold at 35. 6d. The Corrugated Kettle. — The chief feature of t 'e is the fluted form of the bottom, which not only adds considerably to its str< but increases the heating surface about 20 per cent., thereby causing the water to boil in a very much shorter time than in an ordinary flat-bottomed kettle. The peculiar form of this kettle, both as regards the fluted bottom and dome top, renders it especially suitable for use on gas or petroleum stoves or spirit lamps. ia made in polished steel in nine sizes, holding from I to 12 pints, and sold at prices ranging from is. 6d. to 45. 3d., according to size. It is also made in polished copper or brass in the four smaller sizes, from i to 3 pints, sold at from 55. to 75. 6d. with ordinary handle In the five larger sizes, holding from 4 to i j pints, it is made in polished copper with turned handle and spout, and sold at prices ranging from 8s. to i8s. Coffee-pot. — When well made, coffee, perhaps, is the most delicious and n -freshing of all the infusions that are made for household use, but the goodness of coffee very often depends on the construction of the m which it is made, and it is most desirable to use one in which, omatic oil of the berry developed in the process of roasting is not driven off by boiling, on the one hand, which invariably spoils coffee, and not made sufficiently perceptible by the endeavour to make it at too low a temperature, which is too often the case. In one of the t Coffee Cans either contingency is happily avoided by the peculiar construction of this coffee-pot, in which the coffee, when making, is surrounded by a jacket of boiling water, and thus kept at such a temperature that the valuable principle in which the aroma - n. off, but gradually and continuously brought out,. 72 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT thus increasing to a wonderful extent the flavour and fragrance of the drink. By means of this utensil coffee can be made to perfection in so short a time as two minutes, which shows how easy and rapid the process is when performed by means of this utensil. They are kept in various sizes, and made of various materials, and vary in price from 55. 6d. upwards. Freezing Machines. — Ice is now so much used at English tables that it has become a necessary of household economy, and dessert ices follow summer dinners as a matter of course. Dessert ices are, by modern invention and ingenuity, placed within the reach of most housekeepers, and it is easy to make ices by one of the patent freezing machines, which afford a quick, economical and most simple method of freezing. Two ices, or an ice and an ice pudding can be made at the same time by these machines. The mixture to be iced is placed in the tubes or cylinders ; outside these tubes rough ice and salt are placed, the ice being pounded, and the salt and a little water added ; the piston is then worked up and down. This movement produces a constant change and agitation of the ice and salt, which is compelled to pass- round and round the agitator. Two stirrers are attached to the piston, and work at the same time with it ; these " stirrers " go up and down inside the cylin- ders, and stir up and mix the cream or water mixture undergoing the freezing process. This agitation of the cream, etc., is necessary to prevent the future ice from being lumpy and snowy. When the freezing is complete the stirrers are taken out of the cylinders, and the ice pressed down firmly by a presser ; this moulds it to the form of the cylinder. It is set by keeping it still in the machine for a short time longer, still working the piston up and down ; it is then turned out, beautifully iced and moulded. The same ice and salt which freezes the dessert ices will afterwards freeze a block of pure water ice, or may be used to cool wine. These freezing machines are made in oak, and are supplied in three sizes, Nos. i, 2 and 3, to freeze and mould i, 2 and 3 pints re- spectively, at £2 i os., ^3 53., and ^3 155. These are to be used with ice and salt only. Refrigerators are very necessary in a household, as they ensure both comfort and economy, and, indeed, promote good health in the summer. They consist essentially of cupboards or chests, lined with zinc, and kept cool by ice. The ice receptacle, however, should have no connexion with the storage part, as the food should be kept in a cold, dry atmo- sphere. A properly-made refrigerator consists of a wood cupboard or chest, lined inside with zinc, and having a tight fitting door ; between the zinc lining and wood casing there should be a layer of insulating material, such as thick felt (the cheapest), or better, asbestos, or its artificial substitute, slag-wool. This insulating layer prevents loss by too rapid dissipation of the cold by contact with the hotter outside KITCHEN UTENSILS, Mayonnaise Mixer, Mincer, Asparagus Dibh. Masher and Strainer, Egg Boiler, Table Hot Plate, Hot Water Dish, Gas Grilling Stove, Cream Freezer. KITCHEN UTENSILS. 10 i. Chafing Dish Pan. 2. Chafin? Dish Stand and Lamp. 3. Doubls Boiler of Chafog Dish. 4. Jelly Mould. 5. Meat Slice. 6. Whisk. 7. Channj Dish complete. 8. Colander. 9. Dutch Oven. 10. Spice Box. 10 THE KITCHEN 73 air. The ice chamber should also be lined with zinc, and be placed at the top or back of the chest, a waste pipe being provided for draining away the water, which may be stored in another zinc receptacle under the chest, and used as an ice bath for bottles of liquors, etc. Ice quickly melts if surrounded by water or air, therefore keep the ice chest closed and well drained. If you have a piece of ice but no proper receptacle for it, you may keep it for a long time even in summer if you wrap it in a blanket and place it in a dark, dry place. Unless you are quite sure of the purity of ice, never mix it with food or bever- ages ; cool down to the required temperature by surrounding the vessels in which the food or beverage is contained with a mixture of pounded ice and salt. An ice closet, or refrigerator, should not bi in a kitchen ; place it in the larder, at all events well away from the direct sunlight ; choose the darkest corner. The interior should be kept scrupulously clean. Filters. — Absolutely pure water is not to be found in nature, for even rain (natural distillation, resulting from condensation following on evaporation of sea, lake, river and soil surface water by the sun- rays) absorbs gases and dust as it descends through the various atmospheric strata. Lake, river and spring waters contain gases, earthy salts and organic matter. The salts are not to be feared unless present in large quantities, but the presence of organic matter, if not always dangerous, should give rise to suspicion. Organic matter in water is usually the result of decomposition, and whether of vegetable or animal origin is nearly always unwholesome; but too often such organic matter may comprise chemical poisons or the so-called poison secreting specific, or pathogenic, microbes. To get rid of superfluous earthy salts (more especially lime and magnesia) and organic matter, various methods of purification are adopted. Water supplied to towns by compani*. •> or municipalities is usually filtered through extensive and deep beds of sand gravel and other materials. Sometimes the water is first run into tanks, chemicals added, and the superabundant lime allowed to cl before the water is run on the filters. Domestic filters are constructed on much the same principle, the water being made to pass through layers of sand, charcoal, spongy iron, porous earthenware or ]>aUi:t compositions. Charcoal and iron are believed to have a chemical as well as a mechanical influence, as they absorb oxygen and part with it, and also absorb deleterious gases. The varieties and styles of filters differ so widely that it is almost impossible to give prices. A domestic filter may be made by thoroughly charring the inside of an oaken cask (this is best done by burning spirits of wine in it), then placing curved porous tiles at the bottom, covering this with a layer of carefully cleansed gravel, upon the top of which should be a finer gravel, and finally sand or coarsely ground charcoal. The danger of all filters is that they soon get foul if constantly used, and then water passed through them is only contaminated. There arc 74 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENf tubes composed of siliceous infusorial earths, which are very compact, but allow water introduced into them slowly to percolate. The only way to obtain absolutely pure water is to use a still, in which water is evaporated by heat, and the steam being caught and con- densed by cold is obtained in the form of liquid water. But this water is of a " dead " character, having no oxygen, and if exposed to the air quickly absorbs atmospheric gases and dust. For practical purposes, if water has to be purified, the best plan is to boil it. This not only destroys living germs and their spores, but splits up organic matter and causes the earthy salts to be deposited in the form of slime or " fur." The kettle has the advantage of being available both for home and outdoor use — for instance on country excursions, when very often water of doubtful character is alone to be procured. Washing and Wringing Machines. — In large establishments where there is a laundry these do not enter into " The Arrangement and Economy of the Kitchen," but in smaller ones they often of necessity form part of the furniture. The price of a small one is from 203 to 903. Washing machines are daily becoming more general in private families, and needless to say washing at home, if practicable, is a great economy. Fireproof Earthenware Cooking Appliances and Casserole Pots are benefits which we owe to Continental chefs. For many purposes they are not to be surpassed. They are light, cleanly, impart no flavour to the most delicate of viands, quick in use, and may, for the most part, be sent up to table with their contents direct from the kitchener. Among other purposes fireproof earthenware vessels are excellent for cooking " ceufs sur le plat," or fried eggs, scrambled eggs, stewed and baked tomatoes, joints of meat " au daube," that is, stewed with rich gravy and vege- tables. These are all dishes which would be spoilt in colour and flavour if iron saucepans were used. Moreover, as this ware is decidedly ornamental, they only require to be taken from the oven or hot plate, placed on a dish and sent to the dining-room. Enamelled Ware is now much used, both for cooking and other kitchen utensils. As a rule these consist of rather thin sheets of steel, or iron, stamped out into different shapes, and then coated inside and out with fireproof enamel ; the coat used for the outside generally being blue, and that for the inside white. The advantages of enamelled ware are that it is clean, acid-proof and does not injure the colour or flavour of any article cooked and placed within it. Vessels of this ware are especially useful for making sauces, boiling milk, farinaceous puddings and stew- ing fruit. These utensils are also easily cleaned. But it is necessary to buy good quality articles, as in the cheaper classes the enamel is often thin, inferior and contaminated with arsenic. Inferior enamel is apt to chip, and this is dangerous, as the particles are as sharp as glass and capable of causing serious digestive troubles. Moreover, if the enamel is chipped or badly cracked, all the advantages of enamelling are neutralized, as the foods come into direct contact with the metal, and THE KITCHEN 75 further act on the under part of the enamel. This ware should always be properly seasoned before use. Fill to the brim with boiling water, add a good allowance of soda and allow to get cool, then wash thoroughly in very hot soap suds. Enamelled metal ware should never be placed in the oven or on a stove, unless it contains a liquid or some fat, otherwise the enamel will crack. Aluminium is a metal existing largely in clay. It is only within recent years that it has been able to be extracted economically and in sufficient quantities for commercial purposes. Its chief character- istics are its extreme lightness, its resistance to the action of most acids and atmospheric influences, and the ease with which it forms most useful alloys. In its natural condition it is of a dullish silver hue. Aluminium cooking and kitchen utensils are now either stamped out of sheet metal or moulded. Their extreme lightness makes stewpans, frying-pans and bain-maries of this metal most handy in the kitchen, and the fact that the juices of vegetables and fruits, etc., do not act upon it, gives aluminium a considerable advantage over copper. The metal heats quickly and retains its heat for a long time. It requires some care in cleaning. As yet aluminium kitchen ware is somcuh.it expensive, but when its merits are more widely recognized, and it comes into more general use, prices are likely to fall. The Chafing Dish is a very ancient utensil, much used by our ancestors and then gradually neglected. But it has come into fashion again, largely through a revival of its use in America. The chafing dish is a deep metal pan, with sloping sides, and provided with a domed cover, which fits in the circular rim of a metal tripod. On the stand of the tripod beneath the dish a spirit lamp is placed. In some in- stances the dish is heated by electricity. As a rule these articles are highly ornamental, and are meant to be used on the table or sideboard ; they are usually brought into requisition at breakfast, luncheon and supper, and are undoubtedly most serviceable in households where only a few servants are kept, as by their aid dainty little dishes such as fried or scrambled eggs, omelettes, stewed kidneys, broiled tomatoes, "welch rarebit or cheese fondu, and similar preparations can be sj» red at the early morning meal, or at a late supper "after the theatre." For dwellers in flats the chafing dish is almost indispensable. Complete List of Domestic Utensils. — Here we must bring our notices of utensils that find a place in most kitchens to a close, omitting many articles of less importance not likely to be called so frequently into use. Everything necessary for a family, whether large or small, is included in the following complete specifications of domestic utensils, which will show at a glance the articles required for the kitchens of families, ranging from those for whom a small cottage affords sufficient accommodation to those who have an income large enough to warrant the occupation of a mansion. For a mansion, whose many guests are oming and going, and where a large number of domestics are kept, 76 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT a great number of articles will be required, and these are set forth in specification No. I. In specification No. II everything is included that is necessary for culinary operations in a family whose head is possessed of ample means. Specification No. Ill includes those articles which should be found in comparatively small houses ; whilst in specification No. IV such things only are enumerated as are indispensable to a family possessed of a small income, and moving in a comparatively humble sphere of life. Specifications and Estimates for Outfit of Kitchens. — The following specifi- cations and estimates, it may be said, have been carefully prepared. They are exclusive of tinnery and brushes. Each specification is complete in itself, and any of the articles mentioned may be had singly at the same prices. SPECIFICATION No. I. This Specification is complete and suitable for any Mansion. £ s. d. 8 Copper Stewpans, assorted sizes . . . . . 5 12 6 i Copper Stock Pot, 10 galls., with tap and Drainer . 5 18 6 1 Copper Bain marie, 1 1 vessels 7 7 o 2 Copper Saute or Cutlet Pans 176 i Copper Braizing Pan with Fire Cover, 18 in. . . 440 i Copper Egg Bowl . . .0186 i Copper Sugar Boiler . . 015 o 1 Copper Preserving Pan . i 16 o 2 Copper Jelly Moulds i i 6 2 Copper Charlotte Moulds, 2 pt., 35. 6d., 2j, 43. 6d. o 8 o 12 Copper Dariol Moulds, 2 in. o 9 6 12 Copper Fancy Entroe Cups, assorted o 12 o 2 Copper Conical Gravy Strainers . . . . . o 17 6 1 Copper Soup Ladle ..046 2 Copper D Slices . . . o 10 o 2 Copper Dish-up Spoons .0100 1 Copper Dish - up, perfor- ated ......046 2 Copper Omelette Pans . o 15 9 2 Copper Baking Plates ..126 i Oval Wrought iron Fat Pan and Drainer . . . . o 19 6 i Oblong Wrought -steel Drip- ping Pan with Well, on iron legs . . • . .286 Basting Ladle for ditto . o 10 6 Large Wood Meat Screens with Hot Closet . . 912 6 Steel Cutlet Bat . . .046 Cast -steel Meat Saw ..046 Cast-steel Cutlet Saw ..036 £ s. d. 48 18 3 3 6 Carried forward ; ,. . .... £48 18 3 Brought forward . i Cast -steel Cleaver . . o i Set Skewers, gd., is., is. 6d o i Case Larding Needles . o i Daubing Needle . . o 3 Cooks' Knives ... o 1 Cooks' Bone Knife . . o 2 Root Knives, is. . o 2 Steel Dish-up Forks with Guard .... o Salamander and Stand o Pair Steak Tongs . . o Toasting Fork . . o Fluted Bar Gridiron . o Hanging Gridiron . 036 Oval Iron Fry Pan . 026 6 Tinned Iron Saucepans o 13 6 2 Ditto, with steamer, 6 qt. 55. ; 8 qt., 6s. 6d. . o n 6 i Best Wrought-iron Tea Kettle o 10 6 i Copper-Bottom Tin-Body Range Kettle . . .026 1 6 gal. Oval Wrought-steel Boiling Pot . . . i 10 o 2 Strong Wire Fry Baskets, 2S. 6d., 35. 6d. . . .060 i Strong Tin Fish Kettle, Copper Bottom . o 10 6 i Strong Tin Turbot Kettle, Copper Bottom ..150 Marble Slab for Pastry . o 10 6 Box Pastry Cutters, each Round and Fluted . .050 Box Assorted Fancy Cutters 020 Paste J agger . . . .010 Box Vegetable Cutters . .036 Salad Basket (Wire) ..036 Carried forward r « -£5^ 10 § THE KITCHEN SPECIFICATION No. I. (continued). 77 Brought forward i Patent Bread Grater . •lied Iron Spoons i Block Tin Souj. Ladle i Hour and Sugar Dredge . _' IVpprr Boxes, 4d. each i 1'otato Masher •l>le Scoops, wood handles l-'unnels .... i Raised Pie Mould . . . i !>../< -ii Tartlet te Tins . . 3 Dozen Round Pattypans, fluted i Bread Rasp 1 1 'alette Knife .... 2 \Vire Egg Whisks, strong, }d., is. gd. . i Refrigerator .... i Pewter Ice Pot, with Cover i Pail f..r ditto, O.ik . . . 1 Spatula 2 Pewter lor Pudding Moulds . IJ Pewter I' '•! 'lllds i Marl.le M-.i-t.tr. 14 in. . . i Lignum Vita- d • 'u.ility " Knife hint- on high stand, dr. m 4 kniv. \. i 5« io 6 Brought forward . 026 i Spice Box, Block Tin . 056 i Seasoning Box 019 i Mincing Machine, Vitrified 026 Enamel 008 i Set Registered Scales and 023 Weights, to weigh 28 Ib. 12 Tinned Meat Hooks . . 036 2 Corkscrews .... O o io 2 Tin Openers 056 3 C,alvani/ed Pails, is. (,d. . 0 i 6 i Coal Hod, Zinc lined . i Kitchen Fender oio I Set Kitchen Fire Iron- 020 i Tin Coffee Pot, 35. 6d.. i 026 Tin Tea Pot, 35. 6d. . I Coffee Mill. Steel . . . 030 3 Japanned Travs. Strong . 550 i Lemon Squee/er 1 i o i Jelly Bag and Stand . 1 Set Tea, Coffee, an-! Canisters .... 4 Han -t . . . 2 Brass Wire M< \es . Hour Kit Rolling Pin. hard w.*-d .ve Brushes . . - ... Hair Broom and handle . •r Yard Broom and .lie Ling Brushes . . 076 046 o 15 o 046 3 17 6 £ s. d. 74 4 6 o 10 6 o 4 o I I Cam •£74 4 6 8 9 SPECIFICATION No. II. > Good Class Houses. -sorted £ 5. d. 5 io o with tap and dr,( \ 5 o ;>er Saute Pan . o IO 6 per Sugar Boiler . o io 6 per Egg Bowl . o 15 o mg Pan 140 •er Jelly Moulds . o 17 6 r 1 >ariol Moulds 096 Cups 060 i Onlv Copper Char . 2 pt. . . .036 I Onlv < r 080 £ s. d. Brought forward . . . 14 o 3 '76 i Copper D Slice . . .050 i Oval Wrought-iron Fat . o 15 o i Wrought-iron Dripping with Well and Iron legs . ..226 Ladle for ditto . o 8 6 i Wooden Meat Screen, cir- cular corners and Hot Closet 476 Bottle Jack and Crane Coiuplet- I Cutlet Bat .... >a\v .... .rd . . .£14 6 3 i Cutlet Saw . Carried forward o 14 » 4 o 4 o 3 '3 3 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT £ s. d. £ s. d. Brought forward . 23 13 3 Brought forward . 30 7 0 . I Set Skewers, each gd. is. o X 9 24 Patty Pans fluted . . . 0 0 8 • X Case Larding Needles ' . , 0 2 6 i Bread Rasp .... o 2 o . X Daubing Needle o I 6 i Strong Wire Egg Whisk o I 6 a Cooks' Knives . b 5 6 i Refrigerator .... 4 4 o x Cooks' Bone Knife . o 5 6 i Pewter Freezing Pot 0 17 6 a Root Knives, is. ... o a 0 i Oak Pail for ditto . . . o 6 6 Dish-up Forks with Guard o 4 6 i Spatula o . X Salamander and Stand o 7 6 i Pewter Ice Pudding Mould o 10 6 X Pair Steak Tongs . . . o 2 6 6 Pewter Ice Dessert Moulds o 9 o X Toast Fork .... o :'•! o i Marble Mortar o IO 6 X Fluted Bar Gridiron o .3 6 i Lignum Vitae Pestle . 0 3 6 X Strong Wire Hanging Grid- i Set Best Scales and Weights iron • • • • o 6 14 Ib o 18 6 X Oval Iron Fry Pan . . o 2 3 i Knife Machine on High 4 Iron Saucepans; assorted . o 9 0 Stand, 3 knives and carver 2 15 6 I 2 gall, ditto, with steamer o 6 0 i Mincing Machine 0 15 0 X Cast-iron Oval Boiling Pot 0 7 6 3 Hair Sieves .... o 7 6 I Oval Wrought-iron Tea i Brass Wire Sieve . . . o 3 6 Kettle 0 8 6 12 Meat Hooks .... 0 i 0 X Copper-bottom, Tin-body I Jelly Bag and Stand . . o 8 6 Well Kettle .... 0 5 6 2 Corkscrews o i o X Strong Tin Colander . o 3s 9 I Coffee Mill, Steel . . . 0 12 6 X Strong Tin Fish Kettle, I Kitchen Fender 0 9 6 Copper Bottom . o ••!* 6 I Set Kitchen Irons 0 4 6 X Strong Fish Kettle, Tin I Zinc-lined Coal Hod . . o 4 6 Bottom 'o 4 ii I Tin Coffee Pot . . . 0 3 6 X Box Paste Cutters, Round o 2 0 I Tin Tea Pot .... 0 3 6 X. Box Paste Cutters, Fluted 0 2 0 2 J apanned Trays, Strong . 0 5 o X Box Fancy Cutters . ,tj o 2 0 I Lemon Squeezer o i 3 • I X Paste J agger . . . ^, Japanned Spice Box . b, p I 4 0 6 2 2 Tin Openers .... Galvanized Pails 0 o i 3 o o X Seasoning Box 0 3 ii I Set Tea, Coffee, and Sugar X Bread Grater .... o 2 6 Canisters .... 0 17 6 12 Assorted Iron Spoons . o 6 _ Flour Kit s- 4" 6 X Box Vegetable Cutters o 2 9 I Rolling Pin, hardwood o i 6 X Strong Tin Soup Ladle a I 6 I Paste Board, hardwood 0 4 6 I Fish Slice o I 6 I Set Stove Brushes 0 2 ii I Egg Slice _ _ Q J Set Shoe Brushes . . . Q e 6 3 Vegetable Scoops . o 2 9 I Hair Broom and Handle . 0 j 3 ii X each Flour and Sugar I Bass or Yard Broom and Dredge, is. 3d. . 0 2 6 Handle o 2 6 a Tin Funnels .... o O 8 3 Scrubbing Brushes 0 3 9 12 Tartlette Pans .... o I 6 i Meat Chopper .... 0 4 6 Carried forward •£30 7 Total £43 6 3 SPECIFICATION No. III. Suitable for Middle-Class Houses j Saucepans, £ s. d. 0160 4 Sanitary Steel assorted ..... 1 Sanitary Steel Stock Pot, 3 galls o 18 2 Tinned Iron Saucepans . o 4 i 10 pt. ditto, with steamer o 4 Carried forward •£2 2 9 Brought forward ..22 i Oval Boiling Pot, 3 galls, o 4 i Preserving Pan, Copper . o 16 i Sanitary Steel Saute Pan . o 3 i Sanitary Steel Omelette Pan o 2 Carried forward 1 . .£396 KITCHEN UTENSILS. rtPans. 2. Patty Pans. 3. Raised Pie Mould. 4. Paste J agger. 5. Fancy lo Cutters and Case. 6. Vegetable Scoops. 7. Paste Bo.ml and Pin. 8. Plain Charlotte Pudding Mould. 9. Gridiron. 10. Mangle or Wringer, n. Tin-lined ; Knife Basket. 12. Coffee Canister. 13. Bread Grater. D*« HOUSEHOLD REQUISITES. Composition for Cleaning and Polishing, Ammonia Soap, Kleenall, Extract of Soap, Metal Polish, Berlin Black, Walnut Varnish Stain, Metal Polish, Oik Varnish Stain, Brunswick Black, Best White Paint, Safety Matches, Soluble Soft Soap, Non-Mercurial Plate Powder, Black Meltonian Cream, Gishurstine, Floor Polish, Ronuk, Blacking, Black Lead, Wax Polish, Blue, Superior Blacking, Grate Polish, Nugget Black Polish, Knife Polish, Nuggat Brown Polish, Spiritine. 12 THE KITCHEN 79 SPECIFICATION No. III. (continued). i s. d. Brought forward . . . 3 9 6 I Brass Bottle Jack and i Crane .... 0 s 6 i I Jack Screen 0 12 6 i I Block Tin Fish Kettle 0 5 ii i I Mincing Machine . 0 9 6 i I Knife Machine, to clean knives and c arvers . I 5 6 I 2 Cooks' Knives . 0 4 6 I I Dish-up Fork with Guard 0 i 9 I Game Oven o 3 6 i I I Fluted Hanging Gridiron Strong Wire Hanging Grid 0 2 6 6 6 iron o 2 o i I Set Best Scales and Weights i 14 Ib , 1 5 * I Meat Saw 0 2 ii ! I Meat Chopper .... 0 2 6 I I Iron Frying Pan o 2 0 2 I Iron Kettle .... o 4 6 j Tin Kettle, Copper Bottom o 3 3 I I Double Oven Pan 0 4 6 I 2 Cake Tins 0 I 0 I 2 Tin Moulds .... a 2 9 I IJ Tin Dariol Moulds o I 6 I I Box Plain and Fluted 2 Pastry Cutters . . . o j o I Colander 0 2 6 3 M Patty Pans, plain 0 0 6 3 Fish Slice . . 1 Q i Egg Slice , , Q Set Skewers. 6d.. <>J. . . (. 3 Wire Toast F- >rk . . . 1 > 6 Vegetable Scoop . . . ' > 0 Vegetable Cutter . . . 0 0 Root Knife .... 0 D 9 Sugar Dredge .... 0 I 3 Flour Dredge .... 0 0 9 Tin Funnel .... 0 0 6 3 t Gravy Strainers, flat and conical 0 a 4 I *. d. 9 17 5 o i o 006 009 010 033 O 2 O o 3 ii 026 2 O 2 6 I II I 2 4 9 Brought forward Wire Egg Whisk Tin Opener Corkscrew Lemon Squeezer Composition Mortar and Pestle Wire Fry Basket . . . Fish Frying Pan with Wire Drainer Spice Box Iron Spoons, assorted . . o Wood Spoons . o Hair Sieve o Tinned Wire Sieve . . o Baking Plate, oblong . o Dust Pan . . . . o Flour Bin, Japanned . o Each Tea, Coffee and S> Canisters . . . .090 Potato Masher . . .010 Gallon Pail . . . . o I 6 Gallon Oval Wash-up Pan 030 Paste Board . . . .026 Rolling Pin . . . .009 Wire Dish Covers, is. 6d., 2 036 Enamelled Pie Dishes .026 I.naiuelled Pudding Basins 020 lied Wat. 8 pint 026 Kitchen Fender . . .066 Set Kitchen Fire Irons -033 Coal Hod 029 e Brushes ..029 Set Shoe Brushes . . .046 Hair Broom and Handle .030 Bass or Yard Broom .020 3 Scrubbing Brushes ..030 Carried forward •£9 17 5 Total SPECIFICATION No. IV. Suitable for very small Houses. £ s. d. 3 Tinned Iron Saucepans .060 Tinned ditto, with steamer 036 Tinned Oval Boiling Pot, 3 Rails 049 Enamelled Steel Saucepans 020 Iron Kettle . . . .036 Tin Kettle . . . .019 Frying Pan, iron . . .019 Baking Pan ....013 Carried forward £146 i 2 i Mould 12 Patty Pans. . 3 Cutters i Fish Kettle . i Tin Colander . 3 Iron Spoons . Carried forward Broueht forward . . i •lire Pudding Tin . o Cake Tins o s. d. 4 6 o 8 o 15 So HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT SPECIFICATION No. IV. (continued). Brought forward Root Knife .... Flour Dredge Pepper Box .... Cooks' Knives £ i" o o o 1 O s. 15 o 't o' d. I 6 0 4 6 I i i Brought forward Enamelled Jug, 3 pint . Enamelled Preserving Pan Patent Steamer Cooker, 4 vessels £ 3 o 0 o s. 4 o 5 lo d. 9k ii 6 Hanging Wire Gridiron . Fish Slice .... O1 o 0 j) o 6' 6 9 Q i i Pestle and Mortar Lemon Squeezer o o 2 o ii 9 Set Skewers .... Vegetable Scoop Baking Sheet . . . Cooks' Fork .... Fry Basket .... 0 a o o o I I T 6 10 6 0 6 i i i i Coffee Pot .... Tea Pot Gallon Pail .... Galvanized Oval Washing- up Pan 0 0 0 I I I 6 6 0 Gravy Strainer Hair Sieve . .'; . •'> ' Wire Sieve .... o o 0 o I I I o 0 3 i I Spring Balance Family Scales, 20 Ib. ... Knife Machine, " Servants 0 4 ii Corkscrew .... Spice Box . ' .'" s . : Tin Opener . . . . ' Tea, Coffee, and Sugar Canister .... Flour Bin, Japanned . Potato Masher 2 Enamelled Pie Dishes 3 Enamelled Pudding Basin 5 o o 0 0 0 O : 0 I p 4 3 0 I I 6 6 4 6 2 6~ i i 2 Mincing Machine . Coffee Mill .... Set Stove Brushes Set Boot Brushes Hair Broom and Handle Bass or Yard Broom and Handle .... Scrubbing Brushes 0 0 o 0 o 0 o 4 3 i 3 2 I 2 8 6 6 6 6 0 Carried forward . Total . .£699 Turnery and Brushes, etc. — To render the information given here as complete as possible, lists are appended : (i) of the various articles usually comprehended under the general term " Turnery," with brushes ; and (2) of numerous sundries of which it is always desirable to know the price. As it is impossible to give prices where many sizts of the same article are on sale, the minimum only has been stated, preceded by the word " from." TURNERY (Best London Make) and BRUSHES. s. d. o 6 o 9 3 I 2 6 4 6 Butter Prints . . from Butter Prints, in Case „ Knife Trays, Mahogany „ Knife Trays, Oak . Knife Trays, Wicker Knife Trays, Japan- ned, Single . ,, 020 Knife Trays, Japan- ned, Double. . ,, 056 Plate Baskets, Wicker „ 026 Meat Safes, Wooden, Zinc Panels . . „ o 17 6 Meat Safes, J apanned Wire ... „ 100 Jelly Bags ... „ 030 Jelly Bags, Wood Stand for . . each 046 Carried forward . . . £3 7 o Brought forward . Plate Racks . . from Housemaid's Box, Deal „ Decanter Drainers . . „ Linen Press , Washing Trays . . . „ Clothes-horse ,, Wicker Plate Carriers . ,, Cask Stand, Patent . . „ Beer Taps Stands for Trays — Unpolished .... Polished .... Best Boxwood Churns from Butter Knives . . . „• Butter Hands Salt Box , s. d. 7 o 8 o o 8 o 9 0 13 1 5 o 3 o i Carried forward . . .£980 HOUSEHOLD UTENSILS. i. Bread Cutter. a. Coffee Roaster. 3. Carpet Sweeper. 5. Knife Cleaner. 6. Spice Box. Wringer and Mangle. THE KITCHEN TURNERY and BRUSHES (cwiinucd). 8l £ 1 d. £ s. t!. Brought forward 9 8 o Bp>ut:ht forward . II I » a Butlers' Aprons . from 0 5 6 Hand Brooms . from 0 3 0 Chamois Leather , 0 I 0 Carpet Whisks . . . ,, 0 2 0 Flour Tubs . o 4 0 Hand Brushes . . ,, 0 I 9 Flour Tubs, Barrel Shape , Oak Tubs, Round o 0 2 2 6 6 Heuth Brushes Banister Brushes, Single N o 0 2 I 9 o Oak Tubs, Oval . 0 4 0 Do. Double . . ,, 0 3 9 Elm Bowls . . , o I 6 Banister Stair Carpet . ,, 0 I 9 House Pails, Wood o 4 0 Shoe Brushes, per set of 3 ,, o 4 6 Chopping Board . „ 0 6 Boxes for Stove Brushes each o I 9 Door Scrapers, with Stove Brushes from 0 I '. Brushes . . 0 i : ii Plate Brushes . . .. o I 0 Curtain or Bed Brooms ,, 0 2 o Oil Brushes . . . e.u'h o 0 6 Telescope ditto . . „ 0 5 3 Dish Brushes from o 2 6 Carried forward . £" M 8 :1 • Ci3 2 5 SUNDRIES. £ f. d. £ 1. ,/. Bone Spoons . . from o 0 2 Brought forward . 5 4 - Bottle Ba>kets . . 0 1 0 H«»U>. from o 6 Blaek Lead. Bi-st . per \b. 0 0 8 Knife Boards ff 0 I ; Bellows, Kitchen . from 0 I 9 Knit.- Polish . . . M o 0 Bell( i\vs, fancv pattern 0 4 0 •'.ats . 0 I 0 Bread Platters . . 0 1 0 Leather, Cham< o I Bread Knives o 2 6 Lemon Squeezer o I i Butter Dishes, Carved 0 I o Lemon Carats o 0 i Beetle Traps o I 0 Lawn Sieves . o I 9 Butlers' Aprons, Green Library Brushes . . 0 I " Baize ... o 5 0 Marrow Scoops, I \ <T v 0 2 0 Butlers' Apron, Red Mallets .... o q ,, Leather . . „ o o Mops o I t 1 Buff Leather Ki Mops for Jugs . . 0 0 3 bi>anU ... ,, 0 4 3 Mouse-Traps M 0 0 . o I 6 Nai! Brushes 0 0 6 P.ottlr Bni-hex . . 0 0 5 Napkin Kings, Bone Crumb Bni-hes . . , o 2 o ry M 0 I 0 Cindei 5 ... 0 I 9 Paste Brushes H 0 I Cucumber Slicers 0 3 0 Paste Boards . . o 2 Closet Brushes . 0 2 6 Polishing Paste . . per b...\ 0 o '. Dinner Mat<. set 0 8 9 Putty Powder . . per pkt. o 0 - Drinking Horns . . „ o I 9 Rolling Pins . . . from 0 0 Drum Sieves . . „ I I o Sieves (Hair, Wire, etc.) o 0 7 Door Mats ... Dusting Brushes. . „ o 0 9 I 6 o Sponges .... Soap Boxes . - o 0 Q 0 , 1 liners o 0 6 Sink Brushes __ o 0 6 Finery Powder . . per pkt. 0 0 6 Scrubbing d« >. 0 0 6 Fine Brushes . . Iran 0 I 6 o !• ' Furniture do. . . „ 0 I i Salad > 0 O 6 Feather Dusters . . „ 0 I 9 Sweeps' Brushes . o I • 7 I )... with jointed pole 0 2 8 Towel Rollers . . 0 I o Glaze Brushes . . 0 I 6 Turks' Heads with Housemaids' Gloves. o " 8 jointed Poles . 0 3 -, Flannels . . per vd. 0 b 8 Urn Powder . . . 0 i < • ushes . . from o I 3 Vegetable Pressers . from 0 0 i Hair Sieves ... o 0 10 Velvet Brushes . . o I (, Hair Sieves, double Wooden Spoons . tf o 0 1 bottoms . . „ o 2 0 . Total . . ( £7 •J Q Carried forward . £5 \ 7 MARKETING CHAPTER V A Guide for Choosing and Buying Provisions and Home Requisites. With full Information about the Prices and Seasons of Fish, Meat, Poultry, Game, Dairy Produce, Vegetables, Fruit, Tinned Meats, Groceries, Wines, Spirits, etc. That these lists may be of real service, neither time nor care has been spared to render them as complete and reliable as possible. They show not only the prices and seasons of all provisions, but when they can be bought at their cheapest and best, points to be studied by all house- hold managers, particularly those who have to provide for large families. With regard to fish, meat, poultry, game, dairy produce, vegetables and fruit, the prices have been obtained from the principal provincial towns as well as from different parts of London, so as to arrive at the average cost. In the case of tinned provisions, groceries, etc., they are quoted from various sources, and at the present reduced scale of charges generally adopted by tradesmen and stores throughout the kingdom. MEAT Except in the case of early lamb, whicn is always expensive (unless the excellent New Zealand lamb is used), the price of meat varies but little with the season. Lamb and veal are in full season during spring and summer, and are generally preferred in the hot weather to beef and mutton, which are not then considered so good. 82 ! > MARKETING GUIDE: BEER i. Round. 2. Aitchbone. 3. Brisket. 4- Tongue. 5- I-eg. 6. Ribs. 7- Sirloin. 8. Buttock: E. Topside or Buttock; F. Silverside or Round. 9. Hind-quarter: A. Leg, B. Buttock, c. Thick Flank, D. Aitchbone. MARKETING BEEF. PART. IN SEASON. BEST. AVERAGE PRICE. ENGLISH. AMERICAN. Aitchbone . All the year During Winter i 6^.perlb. ftd. per Ib. Baron M ,, gd. ,, Brisket . M ,, $^d. ,, 4i«. •• Buttock . , ,, iod. M iod. „ Clod .... ,, 4d. ,, Flank . . . ,, $\d. 4d. Hock . . . it $d. .. — Silver side M gd. ,, 8d. Neck . . . ,, $d. ,. 3^- M Ribs . . . ,, 8\d. ,, 7^d. to $\d. ,, Rump (in steaks) , is. id. >, lid. ,, Shin .... , 3%d. » -~- Round , R\d. ,, jd. to 8^.,, Sirloin ( gd. Bd. Cheek . . . ( is. 3d. ea. — Heart > is. 6d. „ — Kidney . , iod. per Ib. gd. per Ib. Tail .' . . . t is. gd. ea. — Tongue . ' 25. 6d. „ 25. 6d. ea. Australian and Foreign Meat — Although it is difficult to equal, and impossible to surpass, the best British grown beef and mutton, we have as a nation immensely benefited by the enormous and ever-increasing imports of meat from America, Australia and New Zealand. The large supplies of beef which reach us from the river La Plata and else- where have undoubtedly kept down prices, so that meat is no longer a luxury except among the poor. Much of the beef from South and North America reaches us alive, but it is not of this phase of the trade that we need speak. The great development arose when it was found that cattle and sheep could be slaughtered and dressed on the other side of the ocean, then packed close together in freezing chambers on board ship, and so imported here. Actual freezing, many contend, injures the quality of meat, and certainly if the meat is heated carelessly on arrival it quickly deteriorates. As a matter of fact, however, most meat is now " chilled," that is packed in chambers in which the air is made cold, but is not suffered to reach freezing point. Moreover, it is packed in loose-woven cloth wrappers, and on arrival in England is removed to cold storage chambers, and gradually exposed to higher temperature before it is put on the market. When carefully treated, mutton and lamb are none the worse for the long chilly voyage. Beef, however, is apt to lose somewhat of its natural firmness and elasticity ; it therefore requires to be carefully stored, and, when cooked, should be subjected for some minutes to very high temperature, which should be subsequently lowered, otherwise the albuminous constitutents will soon drain out in the gravy, leaving the mass of meat stringy, ta^t 84 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT and not very nourishing. Imported killed meat cannot safely be kept long except in winter, unless hung in a refrigerator. The housewife who takes special pride in her roast beef, had better buy English joints, using the imported meat for stews and " made dishes." VEAL. PART. IN SEASON. BEST. AVERAGE PRICE. Breast . . Cutlet . . Feb. to Nov. In Summer. Sd. per IS. 2d. Ib. Fillet . . IS. Knuckle 6d. Loin . S%d. Shoulder S$d. Head . . 55. each. Heart . . t Qd. each. Sweetbread . • from is. each. MUTTON. PART. IN SEASON. BEST. AVERAGE PRICE. ENGLISH. NEW ZEAL'D. Breast . \n'*f.1 All the year Sept. to April. 4d. per Ib. 2\d. per Ib. Haunch . >t lt lod. — Leg .... tt tt 9U. 6±d. Loin .... , tt gU. SU. Neck (best end) . i „ 9d. s&. Neck (Scrag end) , ,, 6d. 4d. Saddle . . . ( tt lod. 6d. Shoulder .-.,>• -;*li t ij Sd. 6d. Head f .-» {VJ1f. t >t 6d. each. — Heart " % . ' , ,, 3^. to ^d.ea,. — Kidney . » . , ,, $\d. each. id. each. Chops '.' i'-"V>: ri±^9'fl " is. per Ib. Sd. per Ib. LAMB. PART. IN SEASON. BEST. AVERAG ENGLISH. E PRICE. NEW ZEAL'D. Breast Mar. to Sept. May to July. yd. per Ib. 4d. per Ib. Fore-quarter ,, ,, 9d. 7d. Hind-quarter ,, ,, nd. 8|rf. Leg . . tl tt is. 9\d. Loin .... t> tt lid. 7\d. Neck (best end). >t ,, lod. 6d. Neck (Scrag end) tl ,, Sd. S^ Shoulder . . It ipd. Z\d. Fry (about) . . " " Sd. to is ,, — MARKETING PORK. PART. IN SEASON. BEST. AVERAGE PRICE. Hellv . . . Sept. to April Nov. to March Sd. per Ib. Hand . . . l 7\d. , Fore-loin Sd. Hind-loin 9*. , .... , SW. , Spare ribs • Sd. FISH. In purchasing Fish it should be remembered that it is generally best when in full season, and the following list will be found useful in ascertaining when it is best and cheapest. To give a satisfac- tory table of the prices of fish is a difficult and almost impossible task. Many circumstances conspire to make the variations in price greater than in the case of any other food commodity. The fact that lish is a most perishable article of food and is usually caught while travelling in shoals, results in alternate scarcity and over-supply of a particular kind of fish, whilst the question whether the purchaser resides near or far away from a seaside or big distributing town, affects the situation. All we have been able to do is to record fluctuations in prices « period of years, from which the housewife must form her own judgment. In conclusion, we would say that in no branch of marketing is personal attention better repaid, both in quality and economy, than in the buying of fish. The lady who markets herself will select the lish that «>n the day <»f lu r \ isit is plentiful, consequently cheapest and often ! NAMI IN SEASON. BEST & CHEAPEST. Avi KA..I PRICE. Bloaters . . . Sept. to April . Sept. to Feb. to is. (><l. doz. Brill •Ml the year \u(' to *\i)i*il (x/ to is VHT It* Cod .... Nov. to March . Feb. to March . -./. per Ib. Crabs .... April to October Summer . 3<f. to 35. each. Kels .... June to March . to Nov. . 6d. to is. per IK Haddocks August to Feb. . Winter . 3</. to 15. 3</. each. Halibut . All the year . Nov. to June 4d. to lod. per Ib. Herri iH-.s . Mav to January June to Sept. 6d. to 15. 6d. doz. Lobsters . A ll't he year . '. Summer (xl. to 35. each. M.u kerel Mullet (red N earl vail the year All the year ." . April to July April to October 3rf. to Sd. c to is. 2iL j>er Ib. Ovs1rl> Sept. to April . Winter . to IS. per doz. Plai«- . . . All the year. Mav to Nov. 4d. toSd. per Ib. Prawns Mav to Dec. Mav to Nov. 15. to 25. per pint. Salmon Feb. to Sept. Spring .N: Summer lod. to 35. per Ib. Shrimps . All the year . April to Nov. 3<f. to t<tl. per pint. Smelts . . . < Htober tO \\ inter . 15. to 25. 6d. per box 86 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT FISH (continued). NAME OF FISH. IN SEASON. BEST& CHEAPEST. AVERAGE PRICE. Soles . All the year . April to July 15 to 25 per Ib Sprats Trout Turbot . Whitebait Whiting . Nov. to March . Feb. to Sept. . . All the year . Jan. to Sept. . . All the year . Nov. and Dec. . April to July Spring & Summer Feb. to May Spring & Summer id. to $d. per Ib. Sd. to 25. per Ib. 6d. to 15. 2d. per Ib. 15. to 25. per qt 2d to 6d. each. POULTRY. The cost of poultry varies considerably, being affected both by the season of the year and the district in which it is purchased. It is well to remember that poultry almost invariably rises in price at Christmas, and also tends to be expensive when no game is on the market. These considerations borne in mind, the table below will give a reliable average of prices. POULTRY. IN SEASON. BEST & CHEAPEST. AVERAGE PRICE. Chickens . Feb. to October July to October 25. to 35. 6d. each. Ducklings Feb. to August . May to July . 25. 6d. to 35. 6d. ea. Ducks . . . August to Feb. . Sept. and Oct. . 35. to 45. each. Fowls All the year June to October 25. 6d. to 35. 6d. each. Geese . .'• v Sept. to Feb. Oct. and Nov 65. to 105. each. Green Geese . May to August . June . . 65. to 105. each. Guinea Fowl . Feb. to August . Summer ,' .-. 35. to 45. each. Pigeons . August to April Winter . *. . gd to 15. each. ,, (Bordeaux) All the year Winter . . . 15. tO 15. 4d. Rabbits . . . All the year October to Feb. 6d. to Sd. per Ib. (Ostend) All the year October to Feb. jd. and 8d. per Ib. Turkeys . Oct. to March Nov. to January 105 to £i each. Wheat'ears . . . Sept. to March . Sept. and Oct. . 15. each. GAME. Game varies very much in price, being generally very expensive on the first day or two of the season, whilst on the other hand, any one watching the market may sometimes buy it more cheaply than ordinary poultry at any subsequent period of the season. In this variable climate no hard and fast rule can be laid down for the keeping of Game before it is cooked. In all cases it requires hang- ing ; but while in winter it is safe to buy birds that have been shot some time, in damp or warm weather no such risk should be run, MARKETING 87 GAME (continued). _ GAME. IN SEASON. BEST & CHEAPEST. 1 AVERAGE PRICE. Blackcock . . Ducks (wild) Grouse Hares Partridges Pheasants Plovers Ptarmigan Quail Aug. to Nov. Oct. to Sept. August to Nov. Sept. to March . Sept. to Feb. Oct. to Feb. Oct. to Feb. Sept. to April Sept to Feb. Sept. and Oct. . Nov. and Dec. . September . October . . . Oct. and Nov. . Winter . . . Winter . . . September . Sept. and Oct. . Oct. and Nov. . Wrinter . . . S ept. and Oct. . Oct. and Nov. . Oct and Nov. 25. 6d. to 35. 6d. b'e. 2s. to 35. brace. 35. 6d. to 55. brace. 35. 6d. to 55. each. 35. to 55. brace. 65. to 105. brace. 15. to 15. 6d. each. 15. to 15. 6d. each. 15. to 15. 6d. each 25. 6d. to 35. brace. 15. to 15. 6d. each. 15. to 25. per Ib. 15. to 15. 6d. each. 35. 6d. to 55. brace. Snipes Teal .... Venison . Widgeon . Woodcock Oct to Feb. . Oct. to Feb. Sept. to Jan. Oct. to Feb. . . Oct. to Feb. . . VEGETABLES AND FRUIT. Vegetables and fruits vary greatly in price according to the abundance or scarcity of the supplies. Our table gives the average prices which would have to be paid at the various seasons of an average year. VEGETABLES. NAME. IN SEASON. BEST & CHEAPEST. AVERAGE PRICE. Artichokes Jan. to April February $d. to 6d. each. Jerusalem. Oct. to March . December . id. to 2d. per Ib. Asparagus Feb. to July April and May . 25. 6d. to 55. per 100 Beans (French) . May to November. Summer . 3d. to 15. per Ib. (Broad) . July and Aug. . August . 6d. to od. per peck. (Runners). July to Oct.. . Aug. and Sept.. 2d. to 4d. per Ib. Beetroot . All the year . Autumn id. to 3d. each. Broccoli . •f Autumn 2d. to 6d. each. Sprouts. Nov. to May. April . . . id. to 4d. per Ib. Brussels Sept. to March. Oct. and Nov. . 2d. to 4d. per Ib. Cabbages All the year . Spring and Smr. id. to 2d. each. Carrots All the year . . Early Smr& Atm 4d. to 6d. bunch. Cauliflowers . All the year . . Summer . 2d. to 6d. each. Celery . . . Sept. to March. December id. to 4d. per hd. Horseradish . All the year . Winter . . . id. to 2d. per stick Leeks . . . Oct. and Nov. . 3d. to 6d. bundle. Lettuce M Summer . id. to 4d. each. Onions Summer and Atm. id. to 2d. per Ib. Parsnips . Oct. to April . Feb. and March . id. to 2d. per Ib. Peas .... June to Sept. . July and Aug. . 4d. to 25. per pck. Potatoes . All the year Autumn Id. to id. per Ib. New March to Aug. . June and July . id. to Sd. per Ib. Radishes . April to Nov. . June to Aug. id. to 2d. per bch. Seakale Nov. to May Feb. and March . id. to 25. 6d. bskt. Savoys Nov. to March . Dec. and Jan. . id. to 4d. each. Spinach All the year Summer 2d. to 4d. per Ib. Tomatoes Sept. and Oct.. 2d. to 8d. per Ib. Vegetable Marru - July to Oct. September . id. to 6d. each. "Vatercress Ml the year . Spring and Smr. id. per bunch. 88 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT FRUIT. NAME. IN SEASON. BEST & CHEAPEST. AVERAGE PRICE. Apples All the year . Oct. to Dec. . 2d. to 6d. per Ib. Apricots . June to Sept. . August . is.6d. to 3s.6d.do. Bullaces . Autumn October 2d. to 3^. per Ib. Cherries . June to Aug. July . . . 4d. to Sd. per Ib. Currants . July to Sept. . August . $d. to Sd. per Ib. Damsons . Sept. and Oct. . October . . . id. to ^d. per Ib. Fififs 2s. to 35. per doz. Gooseberries . July to Sept. August . 4d. to Sd. per qt. (Green) May to July. June 2d. to 6d. per qt. Grapes (Foreign). All the year . . Autumn . 4d. to is. per Ib. „ (Hothouse) Sept. to Nov. . October . . . is. and upwards. Greengages Aug. and Sept. . August . 3d. to Sd. per Ib. Medlars Oct. to Jan. . . Oct. and Nov. . 4d. to Sd. per Ib. Melons June to Nov. . October gd. to 55. each. Nectarines Sept. and Oct.. October . . 2s. to 6s. per doz. Oranges . All the year . Winter . . . From ^d. per doz. Peaches . Sept. and Oct. . October . . 45. to 8s. per doz. Pears ''V Oct. to March . Oct. and Nov. . id. to 6d. each. Plums . " "•-."" Aug. to Oct. . Sept. and Oct. . 2d. to 6d. per Ib. Quinces . vs*^ Sept. and Oct. . October . 2s. to 35. per doz. Rhubarb . Jan. to May . March and April 4d. to Sd. bundle. Strawberries June to Sept. . July . . . 4d. to is. per Ib. Dried Vegetables and Fruits. — We have long known such dried fruits as raisins and currants, prunes, dates and figs, and pippins. These useful pudding and dessert fruits are now more abundant than ever, and as a rule prices are moderate. Within recent years other fruits have been added to the list, and we now have dried apple rings, apricots, etc. These apple rings and apricots reach us chiefly from America and Australia, where they are dried in large quantities in specially constructed ovens. They are used for pies and tarts, or may be served stewed. Before cooking, place the required quantity of dried fruit in a colander, and allow tepid water to run over them in order to re- move dust. Then place in a bowl and cover with water and allow to soak. When soft, place in an enamelled pan and stew gently, adding more water if desired. If intended for a pie, stew for a quarter of an hour, then place in piedish, add sugar, place crust on, and bake. If to be used as a compote, only add the sugar a few minutes before removing from the fire. If sugar is added too soon, it is apt to turn to caramel and harden the fruit. Recently vegetables in great variety have been treated by the desiccating process, that is, cut in pieces, and exposed to a more or less quick heat, to remove the water. The vegetables are afterwards packed loosely or compressed. They retain their colour and flavour, and only require soaking before being cooked. These dried vegetables are chiefly to be recommended for use on board ship, for travellers , or for the store cupboards of housewives. Unquestionably fresh vege- tables are to be preferred, whenever obtainable. SHEEP. i. Welsh Mountain Ram. 2. Hampshire Ram. MARKETING 89 DAIRY PRODUCE, HAM, BACON, ETC. Dairy produce varies somewhat in price in accordance with locality, but the differences are not so great of late years, the increased railway facilities having brought about a greater uniformity of price. DAIRY PRODUCE. ARTICLE. AVERAGE PRICE. ARTICLE. AVERAGE PRICE. Butter — Cheese (contd.) — Fresh .... is. to is. 4</. per Ib. Gruyere . from icw/: per Ib. English, Normandy Stilton . „ is. to is. 6d. per Ib. or Brittany is. per Ib. Eggs- Salt . . lod. to is. 2d. Ib. Hens' » \ 8d. to as. per do/. Margarine . dd. to 8d. per Ib. Ducks' », ,'• is. to 2$. Cheese — Geese 35. to 45. „ American 6d. to M. per Ib. Guinea Fowls' IS. to 2S. j»/ Cheddar jod. per Ib. Plovers' 3S. tO 5S- ,Wr Cheshire g{d. to is. per Ib. Turkeys' , 3s. to 45. „ Cream i 3</. to is. each. Milk . 4d. per qt. Dutch 7d. to ad. per Ib. „ Separated 2<*. „ Gorgonzola from gd. per Ib. Cream . • is. to 35. per pint. BACON, HAM, ETC. The cheaper parts of bacon vary from $d. to f)d. per Ib.. but by reason of the quantity of bone contained in them they are not in reality more economical than the best. ARTH i i . AVERAGE 1 ARTH i i . AVERAGE PRICE. Baron (best part). Ham — English AiiHTic.m !•></. to is. per Ib. Si/, t.) IS. 7ld. ti).,i</. .. I 'am (contd.)— Canadian . » . . . Pickled Pork -:t>s . 7d to orf. per Ib. 7c/. to io</. „ Ki/. S,/. to is. ^ , • PROVISIONS AND HOUSEHOLD REQUISITES. For groceries, tinned provisions, jams, biscuits and other household sites, the prices quoted will be found a fair average of those charged by the principal provision dealers and grocers in London and hief provincial towns. Tinned meats, soups, fish, poultry, fruit and vegetables now occupy an important place in our food supply, being available at any time, and handy substitutes when fresh provisions are difficult to pro- cure. In the respective chapters will be found recipes giving full tions for their use. 9o HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT GROCERY. ARTICLE. AVERAGE PRICE. ARTICLE. AVERAGE PRICE. Fruit (continued) — Almonds — J ordan is. to 2s. 6d. per Ib. Greengages . is. 4d. per Ib. Valencia is. to 2s. 6d. per Ib. Chinois is. 4d. per Ib. Baking powder 4\d. per tin. Crystallized — Beef Essence — Cherries . is. 3d. per Ib. (Brand's) . . is. 3d. per tin. Pears . . . is. 4d. per Ib. (Mason's) . . g\d. per bot. Angelica . is. id. per Ib. (Liebig's) . . 2S. 3d. per J Ib. Figs .... is. 4d. per Ib. Beef Tea in skins . 5s. to 6s. per Ib. Flour— Best Whites from i id. 7 Ib. bag. Blancmange Pwdr. 6d. per box. Self-raising . is. lod. 12 Ib. bag. Capers .... 5d. per £ Ib. bottle. Whole Meal i id. 7 Ib. bag. Candied peel — Gelatine . . .. 3|d. per pkt. Lemon 4\d. per Ib. Ginger — . ; . ; 8d. per Ib. Orange . . 5d. per Ib. Ground . 8d. per Ib. Citron 7d. per Ib. Crystallized . is. id. per Ib. Mixed . . 6d. per Ib. Preserved 5d. per Ib. in jar. Chicory 4d. per Ib. Golden syrup. is. per 4 Ib. tin. Chocolate . . lod. per Ib. Herbs .... 5d. per bot. Best do . . nd. per tin. Isinglass . y •'•••« 5d. per pkt. Milk paste . i id. per tin. Mustard . <; * is. 4d. i Ib. tin. Cocoa .... 2S. 6d. per Ib. Prunes 4d. per Ib. Essence . from is. 6d. per Ib. Pudding powder . 6d. per pkt. Nibs . . . is. 3d. per Ib. Raisins — Coco3.tin.cL * • is. 7 id. per \ Ib. tin. Valencia . . 5d. per Ib. Coffee- Sultanas . . 6d. per Ib! Whole, or ground from is. to 2s. per Ib. Muscatels 8d. to is. 4d. per Ib. East-India . . is. 6d. per Ib. Spices, various . 4 id. per tin. Mocha is. gd. per Ib. Sugar — Demerara 2|d. per Ib. Coffee and Milk . io|d. per tin. Loaf .... 2|d. per Ib. Currants 2 id. to 5d. per Ib. Tea- Custard powder . 4 Id. per tin. Congou . is. 2d. per Ib. Curry powder . is. 6d. per Ib. bot. Ceylon . , ,,.,_ is. 6d. to 35. per Ib. Paste . . . is. 2d. per £ pt. jar. Orange Pekoe . 2S. 8d. per Ib. Egg powder 6d. per pkt. Gunpowder . 35. per Ib. Fruit — Dried is. 2d. per Ib. Assam Pekoe . 2S. 6d. per Ib. Apricots . ' . is. 3d. per Ib. Oolong . . 2S. 6d. per Ib. Lunettes is. 4d. per Ib. Young Hyson . 2s. 6d. per Ib. Melon . . . is. 6d. per Ib. Consolidated 2S. 8d. per Ib. Mixed . . ,?-| is. 4d. per Ib. Yeast-Powder 4d. per t:.n. Preserved and Tinned Provisions. — The preservation of meat and other foods by pickling, salting and smoking has been in use since early times in many lands. The primitive methods of exposing slabs of meat, or split-open fish and fowls, to the fierce rays of the sun, or to the action of smoke, have been improved upon. A large choice of smoked hams and bacon (the pork having undergone some process of " curing " before the actual smoke exposure) is now afforded, and other dried foods usually found in the market are smoked tongues, smoked and salted herrings, mackerel, salmon, eels, turtle, etc., smoked breasts of geese and sausages. Of much more recent origin are the methods of preserving foods in bottles and tins. This system is due to a Parisian, named Appert. He placed meats, vegetables and fruits in bottles, brought them to the boil, and hermetically sealed the openings. It is true that before his day, it had been the custom to put foods in vases with or without water and. MARKETING vinegar, and pour on an air impervious seal of oil. But Appert's system was a great step in advance, and gave rise to the enormous trade in tinned and bottled foods. For years the system was chiefly applied to the preserving of expensive delicacies, but it was ultimately adopted in Australia and America for the packing of cheap foods, such as beef and mutton, and afterwards rabbits, soups, salmon and lobster. In the early stages, Australian meat was partly roasted, then packed in tins which were boiled in a water bath, or by steam, and then sealed down. Though the meat was cheap, it was somewhat overcooked, and therefore neither tasty nor nourishing. Improve- ments have been steadily produced, and now the meat, fowl, and fish imported from abroad in tins is usually excellent. Some precaution should be taken. The food remains wholesome so long as the tins remain air-tight, but if air gets in, decomposition soon follows. It is therefore necessary to see that the tins are perfect and air- tight. Tins should not be bulged ; the tops and bottoms should be concave, and have the appearance of depressions. They should be free from rust. Bulged and rusty tins should be rejected, and so ought those which emit a rush of air on being opened. As soon as a tin is opened the whole contents should be turned out. Fish should be eaten (or at all events cooked) the same day it is opened. This does not apply to sardines and other kinds preserved in oil, afthough even these had better be placed in glass or earthenware dishes. Tinned vegetables and fruits soon deteriorate when opened if left in the tins. As a rule, foods preserved in earthenware and glass are better and safer, though rather more expensive than those sold in tin cans. Tinned and bottled fruits should be stored in a cool, dry cupboard. Tinned sardines, bottled anchovies and anchovy paste ought always to be kept in store, as they are useful in preparing many dishes. TINNED PROVISIONS, JAMS, etc. ARTICLE. AVERAGE PRICE. ARTICLE. AVERAGE PRICE. Cherries in Brandy 15. yd. per half bot. Haddocks, Blanch- Cake, Various . in _(/. each. flower . io</. per tin. Fruit in Tins — Herrings 8d. per tin. Poaches . . lod. per tin. Honey .... nd. per jar. Pineapple 5±d. to nA</. per tin. Jams- Pears . . . gd. to is.'bd Apricot . 5<f. per Ib. jar. Apricots . Bottled Plums Cranberries . Sd. to 15. 4<*. „ „ 6J<*. per bottle. 8U. per bottle. Raspberry . Strawberry . Raspberry and (>(/. per Ib. jar. $d. per Ib. jar. Gooseberries 6Jrf. per bottle. Currant 5|rf. per Ib jar. Black Currants Red Currants lid. per bottle. 8±d. per bottle. Greengage . . Black Currant . 5</. per Ib. jar. 6d. per Ib. jar. Cherries . lod. per bottle. Red Currant 5</. per Ib. jar. -a^es . Raspberries and gd. per bottle. Gooseberry . Plum .... ; 'T Ib. jar. 4<V. per Ib. jar. Currants . 15. per bottle. 92 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT TINNED PROVISIONS, JAMS, ETC. (continued}— ARTICLE. AVERAGE PRICE. ARTICLE. AVERAGE PRICE. Jellies- Meats, etc. (contd.) — Red Currant \d. per £ Ib. pot. Lunch Ham is. id. per i fib. tin. Black Currant . 4d per J Ib. pot. Minced Collops . 9 Id. per 2 Ib. tin. Calf's Foot . . is. 6d. per qt. bot. Minced Steak . g\d. per 2 Ib. tin. Orange . 'V *i is. 6d. per qt. bot. Mutton Cutlets Lemon . .,, , t-. i. is. 6d. per qt. bot. with Tomato Madeira . 2s. per qt. bot. Sauce . is. gd. per tin. Aspic . is. 6d. per qt. bot. Mutton, Roast . lod. per tin. Lobster . . ^;«--»! 8d. per tin. Mutton, Boiled . is. 2d. per tin. Marmalade . * '.. 4d. per Ib. jar. Ox Tongues . 2s. gd. per tin. Meats, Game and Ox Tails (solid) . g\d. per 2 Ib. tin. Poultry- Pheasant, Roast, Ham and Chicken is. 4d. small tin. whole, in Jelly 4S. 6d. per tin. Turkey and Ptarmigan . is. gd. per tin. Tongue is. 4d. small tin. Pic-nic Pie . is. 4d. per tin. Ham, Chicken, Rabbit, excellent and Tongue is. 4d. small tin. quality gd. per tin. Beef, Ham and Rabbit, finest Tongue 2S. large tin. quality io£d. per tin. Veal, Ham and Rabbit, Curried . io|d. per 2 Ib. tin Tongue 2S. large tin. Stewed Kidney Chicken and and Mushroom is. gd. per tin. Tongue 2S. i|d. large tin. Turkey and Chicken and Tongue n|d. per tin. Ham . 2S. i|d. large tin. Turkey, — Roast . is. 3d. per tin. Chicken, Ham Turkey, Bone- and Tongue . 2S. i £d. large tin. less . . . 1 1 £d. per \ Ib. tin. Turkey and Tete de Veau (en Tongue ^r;>4- Veal and Ham . 2S. \\d. large tin. 2S. \\d. large tin. Tortue) . . Veal and Ham is. sd. per tin. Pork and Rabbit is. 8d. per tin. (half - circle Beef, Boiled or tin) . . . is. io£d. per tin. Roast. . . . is. 2d. per tiu. Veal Cutlets with Chicken, Roast, Tomato Sauce is. gd. per tin. whole, in ielly. 3s. 3d. per tin. Veal Loaf . . 9 id. per tin. Chicken (Poulet Milk— de Bresse) 2S. 6d. per tin. Anglo-Swiss . 5 id. per tin. Half Roast Fowl English . . . 5d. per tin. and Sausage . 2S. per tin. Olives — Chicken and French 6d. per bottle. Tongue (half Spanish . 8d. per bottle. circle tin) . is. lojd. per tin. Oysters .... 6id. per tin. Chicken, Spring Plum Pudding is. lod. per Ib. tin. (one bird in tin) is. 6d. per tin. Potted Meats — Chicken, Roast . is. 3d. per i£lb. tin. Anchovy . 5d. per tin. Chicken, Boneless 1 1 \d. per | Ib. tin. Bloater' . . . 5d. per tin. Duck, Boneless . nfd. per 1 Ib. tin. Ham — Tongue . 5d. per tin. Calf's Head and Strasbourg Meats — Tomato i s§ 2 \d. per tin. Beef .... 5d. per tin. Camp Pie is. 4d. per tin. Pate de foie gras 2S. 6d. per jar. Game Pie is. 4d. per tin. Game 5d. per tin. T u £T£ccl H<irc is. ^d. per tin. Rabbit is Sd per tin. Lambs' Sweet- salmon .... 8d. per tin. breads with Sardines (Peneau) . is. 2d. per tin. Tomato Sauce is. \\d. per tin. (Philipee and Larks, Roast, 6 Canaud) . . is. 4d. per tin. birds . 2s. gd. per tin. Sausages 6d. to 2S. per tin. MARKETING TINNED PROVISIONS, JAMS, ETC. (continued) — ARTICLE. AVERAGE PRICE. ARTICLE. AVERAGE PRICE. Soups—- Turtle (Brand's) Ox Tail, Mock Turtle, Hare, is. $d. per qt. tin. S tups (contd.) — Gravy, Vegetable Green Pea . Mutton Broth . Truffles is. per qt. tin. yd. per qt. tin. is. per qt. tin. is. Sd. J bottle. gatawny. Gravy, and Giblet Soups (Crosse & Blackwell, and Lazenby) — Game — Hare Mock Turtle, Ox Tail . . . Giblet. Mulliga- tawny . Julienne . From is. per qt. tin. is. 6d. per qt. tin. is. 4d. per qt. tin. is. 4</. per qt. tin. is. per qt. tin. Vegetables — Artichokes . Asparagus Celery French Beans . Green Peas . Haricots, Verts . Macedoine Mushrooms . Tomatoes . . is. 4\d. per l>ot. is. per tin. gd. per tin. is. per tin. io(/. per qt. tin. is. per qt. tin. io\d. per qt. tin. is. per qt. tin. 4</. to (>(/. per tin. BISCUITS. ARTICLE. \(,E PRICE. ARTICLE. AVERAGE rim i . Aberucthy . . . 6d. per Ib. Ginger Nuts . . 6rf. per Ib. Almond Rings (></. per 11). Ice Creams . . is. Sd. per Ib. >ot . 7</. per Ib. Jam Fingers . s,/. per Ib. Arrowroot (thin) . Hath .... Sd. per Ib. 7d. per Ib. Kindergarten . Lunch .... 5d. per Ib. From 3d. per Ib. Breakfast . Sd. per Ib. Macaroons . n</. per Ib. Butter . . 5 ••/. per Ib. Marie .... r Ib. Buttt-r Cream . •r Ib. Maitrc d'Hotel . From is. per Ib. Butter Finders Butter Nuts (>\ji. per Ib. v/. per Ib. Milk .... .... $d. per Ib. From (.</. per Ib. Cinderella . (>,/. per Ib. .... From (•</. per Ib. Captain S./. per Ib. ikes. . . . . s</. per Ib. Olive .... I0$</. per 11). Coffee .... ]o</. per Ib. Osborne . 7d. per Ib. CoKmial K/. per 11). »..-••• «x/. per Ib. Crackm I ... r Ib. Ratafias . . . I. per Ib. Cream Cracker. (></. per Ib. Shortbread From gd. per tin. .... lod. to is. 3</. per Ib. Tea r Ib. -live . o«/. per Ib. . . Toast .... 7d. per Ib. Dinner qd. per Ib. .... $d. per Ib. Garibaldi 6d per Ib. - (various) . is. 2d. to is. Sd. . From h,/. per Ib. Wholemeal . . Sd. per Ib. GRAIN AND PREPARED FOODS. < LE. AVERAGE PRICE. ARTICLE. AVERAGE I Arrowroot . . . From s</. to lod. Rice (continued) — per Ib. Patna . 2\d. per Ib. Barlev . . 2il. PIT Ib. Java. . 2\J. per Ib. Corn 'Flour 5</- P«T 11). packet. Carolina . }j. per 11). . . 4</. per Ib. packet. Ground . zJ. per Ib. Hotninv . _'(/. per Ib. Sago, Small 2<f. per Ib. Lentil Flour 3</. per Ib. Oatmeal . From 2\,i. per Ib. e . Semolina . 2\<l. per Ib. 2\ti. j-tr Ib. ur . (x/. per tiiu a 2J. per Ib. t. . \il. per 11). -;oon . . id. per Ib. Vermicelli . 3|d. per Ib. 94 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT SAUCES AND PICKLES. ARTICLE. AVERAGE PRICE. ARTICLE. AVERAGE PRICE. fauces — Sauces (continued) — Anchovy lod. per bottle. Horseradish . 4%d. per pot. Browning for See 5^d. per bottle. Mason's O.K. 7£d. per bottle. Brand's Ai . 8d. per bottle. Foundation Sauces Tomato . . . io£d. per bottle. Italienne, dark . is. gd. 4 oz. bottle. Clarence . .-- 1, 6d. per bottle. Espagnole, brown is. gd. 4 oz. bottle. Harvey's yd. per bottle. Allemande, pale . is. gd. 4 oz. bottle. Ketchup 8d. per bottle. Pickles- Reading (Cock's) lod. per bottle. Cabbage . 8|d. per pint bot. Soy . . . 6|d. per bottle. Cauliflower . 8 id. per pint bot. Regent . . . is. per bottle. Onions, Mixed . 8 id. per pint bot. Worcester 4%d. per bottle. Walnuts . . . ! 8|d. per pint bot. Yorkshire Relish 4\d. and gd. per bot. Piccalilli. . . 8 Id. per pint bot. Edward's 3d. per bottle. Gherkins . . j 8|d. per pint bot. Mushroom Ket- Mangoes . 8£d. per pint bot. chup . . % '.. ; 5d. per bottle. Chutnee . is. per bottle. Bengal Chutney. 15. per bottle. Mango is. per bottle. Curry 6|d. per tin. Indian Relish . is. 6d. per jar. HOUSEHOLD REQUISITES. ARTICLE. AVERAGE PRICE. ARTICLE. AVERAGE PRICE. Bath Brick ;.J^1 id. each. Nugget . 4 .-.•«• 4\d. and gd. per bot. Beeswax . . » is. gd. per Ib. Pepper— Whole . is. 2d. per Ib. Blacking . . .4 3d. doz. skins. Ground . is. 2d. per Ib. Ebonite . . . gd. per bottle. Cayenne . . 4d. per bottle. Blacklead . . . 6d. per packet. Nepaul . 4d. to is. per bottle. Blue . j lod. per Ib. Plate Powder . . 6d. per box. Brunswick Black . yd. per bottle. Polishing Paste . 6d. per pot. Candles, Composite 35. 6d. 6 Ib. Salt .... 7£d. per 14 Ib. Stearine . . • I 3». gd. 6 Ib. Cerebos 6d. per tin. Rock Wax . . 3s. gd. 6 Ib. Soap, Yellow (Kt.) 3d. per Ib. Dyes .... 3^d. per bottle. Soft (Knight) . io£d. 3$-lb. tin. Gold Paint . . lold. per bottle. Cold Water . . 3d. per Ib. Essences (flavouring); from 3d. per bottle. Carbolic . 3d. per Ib. Furniture Polish . 6d. per pot. Hudson's Extract 4d. per packet. Cream 6d. per bottle. Toilet. . . . id. to 6d. per tablet. Knife Powder . 4\d. per packet. Soda .... 7d. per 14 Ib. Polish . . . \\d. per packet. Starch— Glenfield 5 id. per Ib. Metal Polishing Pdr. 3d. per box. Col man's 3|d. per Ib. Night Lights . . 45. doz. boxes. Vinegar 1\d. per quart. MARKETING 95 WINES, SPIRITS AND LIQUEURS. In the following lists the prices are averaged from those of several good firms of Wine Merchants, both in London and the chief pro- vincial towns. Prices vary very considerably according to the age of the wine and vintage years. WINES. Australian Wines (Red) — Burgundy . from igs. per doz. bots. Cabernet . „ 245. per doz. bots Chablis . ,, igs. per doz. bots. Australian Wines (White) — Riesling . . from 225. per doz. bots. Muscat . . ,, 3os. per doz. bots. Bordeaux (White) — Sauterne. . from 255. per doz. bots. imdy (Red) — Burgundy . from i8s. per doz. bots. Beaune . . „ 24$. per do/ Chambertin. „ 6os. per doz. bots. California Wines — Burgundy . from 195. per doz. bots. Claret . . „ 175. per do/. Sauterne. . „ 255. per do/ Hock Riesing „ 195. per doz. bots. Champagne — Bollinger & Co. from 825. per doz. bots. & G 7os. per doz. bots. 8os. per doz. bots. 90s. per doz. bots. „ 78s. per doz. bots. „ 66s. per doz. bots. „ 875. per doz. bots. „ 845. per doz. bots. „ 1565. per doz. bots. [as. per doz. bots. „ 1 8s. per doz. bots. js. per doz. bots. I! Claret (continued) — Chateau Laftte from 4005. per doz. bots. Chateau Cos SQS. per doz. bots. dennann . Duminv & Co. H.-idsieck&Co. Laurent- Per- rier . t & Chan- don . (I. H. Mumm &Co. . . Piper- Heid- sieck ..ruery & C.n-no . t— Ordinary . . . Chateau Mar- gaux . . Chateau Cos d'Estournel Hock— Niersteiner Johannisberg . Marcobrunner Rudesheimer . Italian Wine— Egidio Vital! Chianti, nary Ordi- from 245. per doz. bots. „ 1 26s. per doz. hots. ,, 565. per do/ ,, 30$. per doz. bots. from 66s. per doz. bots. ,, 2is. 6d. per doz bots. Tarragona Port. „ izs. per doz. bots. Madeira — Dinner Wine . from 325. to 68s. per doz. Marsala— [bots- i . . fromigs. 6J. per doz. bots. Moselle— Berncastler Doc- tor A uslese from 6os. per doz. bots. Port . . ,,i8s.toi44s.perdoz.bots. Vintage Wine;— Tuke's, 1802 . from 66s. per d.>/. bots. I, 1885 . „ 705. per doz. bots. man's. iSt>s ,, 1445. per do. Sherry — Pale. . . . from 1 8s. per doz. bots Golden . . . „ 20$. per doz. bots. Superior Golden „ 485. per doz. IK >ts. Montilla . . ,. 66s. per doz. bot i. British Wines- Orange . . . from 145. per do/ :...,, 145. per d<»/. 1). its. . . . . „ I4S. per do/ ;p. . . „ I4S. per do/ . . . „ 75. per do/. l»..i.,. SPIRITS. Iv . from 4os. to 20os. per doz. bots. !| Rum . ,, 28s. to 385. per doz. bots. I Whiskey . from 35$. to 43$. per doz. bots. „ 375. to 66s. per do/ 3Oi. to 555. 6d. per <; i mtli. „ 305. per doz. bots. I 96 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT LIQUEURS. Liqueurs — Absinthe . from 6s. per bot. Liqueurs (continued) — Kirschwasser . from 55. 6d. per bot. Anisette . ' „ 55. per bot. Kiimmel . 45. %d. per bot. Benedictine . „ 75. per bot. Maraschino. . 45. gd. per bot. Creme de Menthe „ 5$. 6d. per bot. Vermouth . . 2s. 6d. per bot. Chartreuse (yel- English Liqueurs — low) . . . „ 95. per bot! Cherry Brand v. from 35. 6d. per bot. C hartreuse (green) . . „ us. Sd. per bot. Ginger Brandy 3$. 6d. per bot. Orange Brandy 35. 6d. per bot. Curacoa (sweet Milk Punch . 35. 6d. per bot. or dry) . „ 55. gd. per bot. ALES AND STOUT. Dinner Ale 2s. 6d. per doz. bots. Bitter Ale ... us. 6d. per 9 gals. Stout .... 2S. 6d. per doz. bots. Stout in Cask . .145. per 9 gals. Pale Ale . .- ; 8s. 6d. per 9 gals. Porter in Cask . . 95. per 9 gals. MINERAL WATERS AND BEVERAGES. ARTICLE. AVERAGE 1 5RICE. ARTICLE. AVERAGE ] 'RICE. Soda Water .._, is. ^d. per doz. Bitters — Lemonade '.'•' \u is. 6d. Angostura . 45. 6d. per bot. Ginger Beer .- * ; is. 6d. Hop .... 2s. 6d. Ginger Ale •V1 •*£*• is. 6d. Khoosh . . . 25. 6d. Potass .... is. 6d. Orange . 2S. 6d. Lithia .... 35. gd. Fruit J uice &Syrups Soda Water (Sch.) as. gd. Lemon Juice 4*4. Seltzer , . as. gd. Orange Juice . 4 W. Ginger Ale 2s. gd. Lime Fruit Juice IS. Lemonade 35. 3d. Lime Juice Cordl. IS. lid. Potass 2s. gd. Syrups, Lemon, Lithia 45. etc. . . . IS. , i Vinegar, Rasp- berry . Sid. • NATURAL MINERAL WATERS. NAME. PROPERTIES. PRICE. Aperient ..... us per doz bottles Apollinaris Buffalo Lithia ... ;' Carlsbad ..... Table Water . . . Alkaline Lithiated . . Alkaline Lithiated . 6s. per doz. bottles. 95. per doz. bottles. i2s. per doz. bottles Hunyadi Janos Saline Aperient Table Water, Gaseous I2S. per doz. bottles. 6s. per doz bottles Alkaline Chalybeate us per doz bottles Rosbach Salutaris (Manufactured) Taunus . ' • ' '"•' ' . . Table Water . . . Table Water . . . Table Water, Gaseous 6s. per doz. bottles. 4s. 6d. per doz. bottles. *5s. per doz. bottles. Vichy (State Springs) Alkaline Acidulated 95. per doz. bottles. MARKETING GUIDE: MUTTON. V ^ i. Hind Ouartcr. 2. Un-a.;t. v Neck. 4. Leg. 5. Saddle. 6. Shoulder. 7- Haunch. 3. Side: A. Leg, B. Loin, c. Best End of Neck, D. L>reust, E. Shoulder, rag. 17 E MARKETING GUIDE: PORK AND VEAL. i. Side of Pork : A. Leg, B. Belly, c. Loin, D. Hand, E. Spare Rib. 3. Loin. 4. Hand and Spring, and Belly. 5. Loin (side view) : F. Fore-end, c. Middle Loin, n. Hind Loin. 6. Leg. 2. Neck of Veal. 7. Side of Veal : A. Knuckle, u. HJlet, c. Loin, D. Breast, E. Best End of Neck, F. Shoulder, c. Scrag. 18 MARKETING 97 COMPARATIVE VALUE OF FOOD, WITH ITS PERCENTAGE OF CARBON AND NITROGEN. SHOWING WHAT A SHILLING WILL BUY. A SHILLING WILL BUY BONE. MEAT. TOTAL \\"I:IGHT. CENT- GARI l'i K CENT. Nil KOGEN. Rumpsteak none. 13 oz. 13 oz. 11-00 3-00 Heels teak none. 16 oz. 16 oz. ,, »» Ribs of beef 2\ OZ. i Si oz. 1 8 oz. ,, • • : mutton piece . none. 19 oz. 19 oz. » • • Shin none 30 oz. 30 oz 1 1 Leg of mutton . 2.\ OZ. i;\ OCL 1 8 oz. ,, Loin of mutton . 3" "z. 15 oz. IS o/. 1, • • Neck (best end). . 4 oz. 16 oz. 20 oz. ,, .. Shoulder (best end). 3 oz. 17 oz. 20 oz. ,, » Veal cutlet . . . 2 02. 10 OZ. 12 n/. ,, .. ' of veal . '• "/.. 22 OZ. .. .. Salmon .... I OZ. 7 oz. S oz. One- third of a fowl . II OZ. <; «>/. 20 OZ. 14-, H ) Two-thirds of a rabbit 4 o/. 1 6 oz. 20 OZ. — — Bacon .... j o/. 19 oz. 21 OZ. 62-58 Bread .... — — 100 OZ. 30-00 riinse .... — — 24 oz. 41 4-126 Potatoes .... — — 192 oz. 81-00 0'33 Oatmeal' — — I I 2 OZ. 44-00 Hiri'iit bi-.ui.si . — — "Z. Hommv1 — — oz. 40 To arrive al the relative value of various foods, it is absolutely 1: sary to carefully estimate their ditk-rent nutritive qual By this table it will be seen that some expensive foods are really even more costly than they appear at first sight, because of the small proportion of flesh-forming, or nutritive quality they contain. As an instance of this one shilling will buy only 7 ozs. of salmon, containing 2 per cent nitrogen., while the same sum will buy 30 ozs. of shin of beef, containing 3 per cent, nitrogen, or 24 ozs. of cheese, containing 4 per cent. The heat-giving qualities can be estimated by comparing the large ntage of carbon which such foods as oatmeal and potatoes contain with the small amount which is found in various meats. Thus one shilling will buy 136 oxs. of hominy, containing 40-28 per cent, of car- bon, or i<)2 ozs. of potatoes, containing Si per cc-nt., whilst it will only buy 13 ozs. of steak, which contains n per cent, of carbon. ; Once, weeklv. remember thy charges to cast, M'.onthly. see how thy expenses may last." — TPSSFR, 1557- Artificially dried. Reckon half as much again for the water to be added. E 98 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT CALENDAR OF FOOD IN SEASON The following lists will be found useful in arranging menus, as it can be seen at a glance what Fish, Meat, Vegetables, etc., are in season, but it will be necessary to turn to our price lists to know when all such fresh provisions are cheapest and best. It need hardly be added that tinned and preserved provisions are always to be obtained. JANUARY. Fish. — Brill, carp, cod, crayfish, eels, flounders, haddocks, halibut, ling, lobsters, mussels, oysters, perch, pike, prawns, scallops, shrimps, skate, smelts, soles, sprats, tench, turbot, whitebait, whiting. Meat. — Beef, house lamb, mutton, pork, veal, venison. Poultry. — Capons, chickens, ducklings, pigeons, pullets, turkeys. Game. — Hares, partridges, pheasants, snipe, wild-fowl, woodcock. Vegetables. — Jerusalem Artichokes, beetroot, broccoli, cabbages, carrots, celery, chervil, cresses, cucumbers, endive, lettuces, parsnips, potatoes, spinach, turnips. Fruit.— Apples, bananas, grapes, medlars, nuts, oranges, pears, pines, Spanish nuts. FEBRUARY Fish. — Bream, brill, carp, cod, crab, crayfish, eels, flounders, had- docks, halibut, herrings, ling, lobsters, mullet, mussels, oysters, pike, prawns, salmon, scallops, shrimps, skate, smelts, soles, sprats, turbot, whitebait, whiting. Meat. — Beef, house lamb, mutton, pork, veal. Poultry. — Capon, chickens, ducklings, pigeons, pullets, turkeys. Game. — Hares, partridges, pheasants (until the I5th), snipes, wood- cock, wild fowl. Vegetables. — Jerusalem Artichokes, beetroot, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbages, carrots, celery, chervil, cresses, cucumbers, endive, lettuce, parsnips, potatoes, savoys, spinach, turnips. Fruit. — Apples, bananas, chestnuts, grapes, medlars, rhubarb, nuts, oranges, pears, pines, peaches, Spanish nuts. MARCH. Fish. — Bream, brill, carp, cod, crabs, crayfish, eels, flounders, had- docks, halibut, herring, ling, lobsters, mullet, mussels, oysters, pike, prawns, salmon, scallops, shrimps, skate, smelt, soles, sprats, tench, turbot, whiting, whitebait. Meat. — Beef, house lamb, mutton, pork, veal. Poultry. — Capons, chickens, ducklings, pigeons, pullets, turkeys, wild-fowl. Game. — Hares, Guinea fowls. Foreign : black game, ortolans, ptarmigan, quails. MARKETING 99 Vegetables. — Jerusalem artichokes, asparagus, beetroot, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbages, cauliflowers, celery, chervil, cucumbers, endive, horseradish, lettuce, mushrooms, parsnips, radishes, spinach, tomatoes, watercress. Fruit. — Apples, bananas, figs, grapes, medlars, nectarines, oranges, pears, peaches, pines, dried fruits, rhubarb. APRIL. Fish. — Bream, brill, crabs, crayfish, dory, flounders, gurnet, haddock, halibut, lobsters, mullet, mussels, oysters, prawns, salmon, scallops, shad, shrimps, skate, smelts, soles, turbot, trout, whitebait, whiting. Meat. — Beef, lamb, mutton, pork, veal. Poultry. — Capons, chickens, ducklings, fowls, goslings, pigeons, pullets, rabbits. Game. — Guinea fowl. Foreign : ortolans, ptarmigan, quails. Vegetables. — Jerusalem artichokes, asparagus, beetroot, broccoli, cabbages, cauliflowers, celery, lettuce, mushrooms, parsnips, radishes, seakale, spinach, sprouts, tomatoes, turnips, watercress. Fruit. — Apples, bananas, figs, grapes, oranges, pines, dried fruits, rhubarb. MAT. Fish. — Bass, brill, crabs, crayfish, dory, eels, hake, halibut, herrings, lobsters, mackerel, mullet, prawns, salmon, shad, scallops, smelts, soles, trout, turbot, whitebait, whiting. Meat. — Beef, lamb, mutton, veal, buck venison. Poultry. — Capons, chickens, ducklings, fowls, goslings, pigeons, pullets, rabbits. Game. — Guinea fowl. Foreign : ortolans, ptarmigan, quails. Vegetables. — Artichokes, asparagus, beans, beetroot, cabbages, carrots, cauliflowers, cresses, cucumbers, endive, leeks, lettuce, mush- rooms, peas, potatoes, radishes, seakale, spinach, tomatoes, turnips, watercress. Fruit.— Apples, bananas, figs, gooseberries (green), grapes, oranges, , pines, dried fruits, rhubarb. JUNE. Fish. — Bass, bream, brill, crabs, crayfish, dory, eels, gurnets, halibut, hake, haddock, lobsters, mackerel, mullet, plaice, perch (after isth), prawns, salmon, shad, soles, shrimps, trout, turbot, whitebait, whiting. Meat. — Beef, lamb, mutton, buck venison. Poultry. — Capons, chickens, ducklings, fowls, goslings, pigeons, pullets, turkey poults. Game. Guinea fowls. Foreign : Hazel hens, quails. ioo HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT Vegetables. — Asparagus, artichokes, beans, beetroot, cabbages, car- rots, chervil, cucumbers, leeks, lettuce, mushrooms, parsnips, peas, potatoes, radishes, seakale, spinach, tomatoes, turnips, watercress. Fruit. — Apples, bananas, cherries, currants, gooseberries, grapes, melons, nectarines, peaches, pears, pines, strawberries, rhubarb. JULY. Fish. — Bass, bream, brill, carp, crabs, crayfish, dory, eels, gurnets, haddock, hake, halibut, herrings, lobsters, mackerel, mullet, perch, plaice, prawns, salmon, shad, shrimps, soles, tench, trout, turbot, whitebait, whiting. Meat. — Beef, lamb, mutton, veal, buck venison. Poultry. — Capons, chickens, ducklings, fowls, goslings, pigeons, pullets, rabbits, turkey poults. Game. — Quails (foreign). Vegetables. — Artichokes, asparagus, beans, beetroot, cabbage, carrots, cauliflowers, chervil, cresses, cucumber, endive, leeks, lettuce, mush- rooms, peas, spinach, tomatoes, turnips, watercress. Fruit. — Apricots, bananas, cherries, currants, figs, gooseberries, grapes, melons, nectarines, oranges, pears, pineapples, plums, rasp- berries, strawberries. AUGUST. Fish. — Bass, bream, brill, carp, chub, crabs, crayfish, dory, eels, flounders, gurnets, haddock, hake, halibut, lobsters, mullet, plaice, perch, pike, prawns, salmon, shad, shrimps, soles, tench, trout, turbot, whitebait, whiting. Meat. — Beef, lamb, mutton, veal, buck venison. Poultry. — Capons, chickens, ducklings, ducks, fowls, geese, goslings, pigeons, pullets, rabbits, turkey poults. Game. — Black game, capercailzie (2oth), grouse (i2th), hares, plovers, woodcock, quails (foreign). Vegetables. — Artichokes, beans, beetroot, cabbages, carrots, cauli- flowers, cresses, cucumbers, leeks, lettuce, peas, potatoes, spinach, tomatoes, turnips, vegetable marrows, watercress. Fruit. — Apricots, bananas, cherries, currants, figs, filberts, grapes, greengages, melons, nectarines, oranges, peaches, pears, pines, plums, raspberries, strawberries. SEPTEMBER. Fish. — Bass, bream, brill, carp, cod, crayfish, dory, eels, flounders, gurnets, haddocks, hake, halibut, herrings, lobsters, mackerel, mullet, oysters, perch, pike, plaice, shrimps, soles, trout, turbot, whiting. Meat. — Beef, lamb, mutton, pork, veal, buck venison. MARKETING 101 Poultry. — Capons, chickens, ducks, fowls, geese, pigeons, pullets, rabbits, turkey poults, turkeys. Game. — Black game, capercailzie, grouse, hares, partridges. Vegetables. — Artichokes, beans, beetroot, cabbages, carrots, cauli- flowers, celery, cresses, cucumbers, endive, leeks, lettuce, mushrooms, parsnips, peas, spinach, sprouts, tomatoes, turnips, vegetable marrows, watercress. Fruit. — Apples, apricots, bananas, cherries (morella), cob-nuts, damsons, figs, filberts, grapes, melons, medlars, nectarines, oranges, peaches, pears, pines, plums, quinces, walnuts. OCTOBER. Fish. — Bream, brill, carp, cod, crabs, crayfish, dory, eels, flounders, gurnet, haddocks, halibut, herrings, lobsters, mackerel, mullet, musx Is, oysters, perch, pike, plaice, salmon (Dutch), scallops, shrimps, skute, smelts, tench, turbot, whiting. Meat. — Beef, lamb, mutton, pork, veal, doc venison. Poultry. — Capons, chickens, ducks, fowls, geese, pigeons, pullets, rabbits, turkeys, turkey poults. Game. — Black game, capercailzie, hares, grouse, pheasants, par- tridges, ptarmigan. Vegetables. — Artichokes, beetroots, cabbages, carrots, cauliflowers, celery, cucumber, lettuce, mushrooms, spinach, tomatoes, turnips, able marrows, watercress. Fruit. —Apples, apricots, bananas, ci . damsons, figs, filberts, 5, medlars, melons, nectarines, peaches, pears, pines, qui walnuts. NOVEMBER. Fish. — Bream, brill, carp, cod, crabs, crayfish, dory, flounders, eels, gurnet, haddocks, halibut, herrings, lobsters, mackerel, mullet, m: is, perch, pike, plaice, salmon (Dutch), scallops, shrimps, skate, smelts, sprats, soles, tench, turbot, whiting. Meat. — Beef, lamb, mutton, pork, doe venison. Poultry. -Capons, chickens, ducks, fowls, geese, pigeons, pullets, ts, turk'-v-poults, tnrl; Game. -Black ^une, capercailzie, grouse, hares, partridges, pheasants, ptarmigan. Vegetables. — Artichokes, beetroot, Brussels sprouts, carrots, celery. s, cucumbers, leeks, lettuce, parsnip-, spinach, tomatoes, turnips, turnip t«p,, watercress. Fruit. Apples, bananas, chestnuts, cranberries, figs, filbert melons, oranges, pears, pines, pomegranates, plums (Calif ornian), wain:. 102 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT DECEMBER. Fish. — Brill, carp, cod, crabs, crayfish, eels, flounders, gurnets, haddocks, halibut, herrings, lobsters, mackerel, mullet, mussels, oysters, perch, pike, plaice, salmon (Dutch), scallops, shrimps, skate, smelt, sprats, soles, tench, whiting. Meat. — Beef, lamb, mutton, pork, doe venison. Poultry. — Capons, chickens, ducks, fowls, geese, pigeons, pullets, rabbits, turkeys. Game. — Black game, capercailzie (till 2Oth), grouse (till i8th), hares, partridges, pheasants, ptarmigan. Vegetables. — Artichokes, Brussel sprouts, broccoli, cabbages, carrots, celery, leeks, parsnips, salsify, savoys, Scotch kale, seakale, spinach, tomatoes, turnip tops, watercress. Fruit. — Apples, bananas, chestnuts, figs, filberts, grapes, medlars, melons, oranges, pears, pines, plums (Calif ornian), pomegranates, walnuts. INTRODUCTION TO COOKERY CHAPTER VI English and French Cookery, The Science and Progress of Cookery, Reasons for Cooking, Methods of Cooking, with instructions for Broiling, Roasting, Baking, Boiling, Stewing, Frying, Hints for Amateur Cooks, The Preservation, Adulteration and Prices of Food, Digestive Time Table, Quantities and Measures, and Table of Equivalents. In the Fine Arts the progress of mankind is marked by a gradual succes- sion of triumphs over the rude materialities of nature. Plain or rudely- carved stones, tumuli, or mounds of earth, are the monuments by which barbarous tribes denote the events of their history, to be succeeded, in the long course of a series of ages, by beautifully proportioned columns, gracefully sculptured statues, triumphal arches, coins, medals and the higher efforts of the pencil and the pen, as man advances by culture and observation to the perfection of his faculties. So is it with the art of cookery. Man, in his primitive state, lived upon roots and the fruits of the earth, until by degrees he was driven to seek for new means by which his wants might be supplied and enlarged. He then became a hunter and a fisher. As his species increased, greater necessities came upon him, and he gradually abandoned the roving life of the savage for the more stationary pursuits of the herdsmen. These begat still more settled habits, as the result of which he began the practice of agriculture, formed ideas of the rights of property, and had his own both defined and secured. The forest, the stream and the sea were then no longer his only resources for food. He sowed and he reaped, pastured and bred cattle, lived on the cultivated produce of his fields, and revelled in thr luxuries of the dairy ; raised flocks for clothing, and assumed, to all intents and purposes, the habits of permanent life and the comfortable condition of a farmer. This was the fourth stage of social progress, up to 104 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT which the useful or mechanical arts had been incidentally developing themselves, when trade and commerce began. Through these various phases, ONLY TO LIVE had been the great object of mankind ; but by and by comforts were multiplied, and accumulating riches created new wants. The object, then, was not only TO LIVE, but to live economically, agreeably, tastefully and well. Accordingly, the art of cookery com- mences ; and although the fruits of the earth, the fowls of the air, the beasts of the field, and the fish of the sea, are still the only food of mankind, yet these are so prepared, improved and dressed by skill and ingenuity, that they are the means of immeasurably extending the boundaries of human enjoyment. Everything that is edible and passes under the hands of the cook is more or less changed, and assumes new forms. Hence the immense influence of that functionary upon the happiness of a household. In the luxurious ages of Grecian antiquity Sicilian cooks were the most esteemed, and received high rewards for their services. Among them, one called Trimalcio was such an adept in his art, that he could impart to common fish both the form and flavour of the most esteemed of the piscatory tribes. A chief cook in the palmy days of Roman extravagance had about £800 a year, and Antony rewarded the one who cooked the supper which pleased Cleopatra with the present of a city. With the fall of the Empire, the culinary art sank into less consideration. In the middle ages cooks laboured to acquire a reputa- tion for their sauces, which they composed of strange combinations, for the sake of novelty. Excellence in the Art of Cookery as in all other things is only acquired by experience and practice. In proportion, therefore, to the oppor- tunities which a cook has had of these, so will be his excellence in the art. FRENCH COOKERY. English V. French Cookery. — It is not easy to treat separately English and French cookery, because, in the first place, by dint of borrowing across the Channel, the two have become inextricably mixed up, as is evidenced by our habitual use of French terms, and by the common, though less constant, use of English terms in French cookery-books ; and because, in the second place a good deal of what is distinctive in French cookery is founded on the nature of things, and cannot be transplanted. Perhaps the difference is greatest in the cooking of meat. We are accused of eating meat raw, and we retort that roast meat out of England is uneatable. The damp climate and the broad pastures, the turnip crops that flourish under our rainy skies, the graziers who for many years have worked to make British cattle and British sheep renowned through the world ; these all have made our cookery what INTRODUCTION TO COOKERY 105 it is. That good, even excellent meat is to be found out of the British isles none will deny ; but the average is infinitely bettor in these isles than anywhere on the Continent of Europe. The consequence is that we have acquired the habit of cooking meat so as to bring out the flavour and not to disguise it, while in other countries experience has taught the cook to disguise it in many a cunning way, The English practice is not invariably wise, for if there is much good meat in the market there is also much bad which would be greatly improved by disguise, and there are also inferior joints on the best animal that lend them- selves ill to the national cookery. Meat Consumed in Paris. — The question has often been asked, " Do we eat more meat than our neighbours ? " Most people would answer the question in the affirmative ; but comparisons made between Paris and London by Dr. Letherby seem to show that, the consumption of meat is greater in Paris than in London. His calculations showed in Paris 49 ozs. per head weekly, or 7 ozs. a day per head of the population ; the London market returns give 3 1 1 ozs. weekly, or 4^ ozs. a day. Probably the results would be different if the comparison were extended to the country and provincial towns. At any rate, London has a much larger supply of animal food in the shape of fish. Fish in England and France. — Here, again, art is the handmaiden of nature. The sea supplies us so plentifully that we neglect or disdain fresh-water fish, upon which our neighbours expend much skill and pains in eookery. Very few English people have eaten a carp, though our lakes and ponds contain many ; yet in every French cookery-book an to be found recipes showing that carp is intended to be served at dinners of some pretension. Again, the facility with which fish is sent to any part of our country makes us less dependent upon sharp and highly-flavoured sauces. Carp and other fresh- water fish affecting muddy spots, should be caught alive and kept for some days in clear, running water, and fed on a little oatmeal or crumbs of bread, in order to get rid of the earthy flavour. Vegetables in England and France. — As for vegetable cookery, in which we must confess ourselves entirely beaten, we easily find a rea-on in the custom of all Catholic countries to fast from meat once a week, which has necessitated the practice of serving vegetables in some way less wasteful and less objectionable than the English methods. Fuel. —The relative cost of fuel in the two countries has also had much to do in stereotyping the national cookery. Coals have- been cheap and plentiful, and have accordingly luvn used with profusion. It is only in recent years that we have begun to use close stoves ; and only a few years ago all our cooking was done over or before the fire. Any one reading a French cookery-book will be struck by the sparing way in which the use of an oven is prescribed. In an English book it is assumed that nothing is so easy as to shut anything in the oven and 106 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT take it out when it is done — and probably the assumption is correct. If we had to do all our cooking with wood we also should become econo- mical ; but wood, even in England, does not cost as much as wood costs in many countries, where coals for domestic use are practically unknown. Count Rumford's action in the matter of stoves was received with some scorn, though he died only in 1814. It used to be said of him that he would cook his dinner by the smoke from his neighbour's chimney. The wasted fuel that escapes as smoke would cook not one but many dinners. It is a truism to say that France, pressed by circumstances, has accomplished much in the realm of cookery. France has achieved the highest results in luxurious cookery ; and to the thrift of her peasantry we must look for the beginnings of the French economy in cookery that has become almost proverbial. Luxury with economy is the highest praise in cookery. French Names. — In the present edition of this book French names — either the accepted or the literal translation — have been added to many of the dishes. Those of distinct English origin remain as they are. Our readers can now write a menu in either language. THE SCIENCE AND PROGRESS OF COOKERY Cookery and the Artificial Preparation of Food has one chief object, i.e., to assist in the wonderful series of changes known as digestion and assimilation. A secondary aim is to render certain foods, noxious in their natural state, fit for human consumption. The potato and manioc are poisonous when gathered, but rendered harmless by the cook. The object of a journey may be reached by many different, and sometimes by apparently divergent, roads. So it is here. Some even argue that the roads once diverging never become parallel. They declare that the art of cookery, as now understood, only results in the persistent overtaxing, instead of lightening the labours of, the digestive organs. But let us realize what it would mean to go back to pre-cooking days, when our ancestors not only devoured their rela- tives, but devoured them raw ; or to place ourselves in some savage tribe where cookery is in its infancy ; or even return to the coarse abundance of our nearer forefathers ; and all will agree that the properly trained cook is more friend than foe. The Art of Cookery. — Within the last few years cookery has made great strides in a totally new direction. The cook has turned philosopher, and loves— '-if not the process of reasoning — at least to be told other people's " reasons why " for the operations of the kitchen. Chemistry is a recent science, and is now in an active state of growth. Every day something is being added to our store of physiological knowledge. The science of food cannot advance a step but by the help of one of INTRODUCTION TO COOKERY 107 these. Formerly the art of cookery had little enough to do with either, and flourished long before chemistry and physiology in their modern acceptation were known. But we cannot accept the common assertion that because cookery long flourished alone it should be left alone now, for the same assertion might be made respecting the application of modern science to any department of human activity. People lived and died before the law of gravitation, or elementary mathematical truths, or the application of steam to machinery were discovered, yet these discoveries have been applied to practical indus- tries with immense benefit to mankind. Science applied to agriculture has enabled us to support a larger population in greater comfort ; science applied to food and cookery will enable us to do this and more. We can confidently look forward to a time when in the chemist's labora- tory the transformation of nature's laboratory shall be imitated for the feeding of our starving millions. That goal is a very long way off, and we trace out only the first steps of the road towards it. But as we said at the outset, good cookery must always mean the successful doing or easing in the kitchen of Nature's work. Everyday Science. — It is interesting to the student of human pr< to watch for scientific discoveries, as they gradually creep from tho laboratory to the treatise, from the treatise to the lecture-room, thence to the kitchen. Each operation was once carried out according to the fancy of the individual operating. Experience, not only the best, but the only teacher, taught. There were a number of isolated experi- ments, some repeated or handed down until they became traditions. But there was little or no generalization of the facts, and thcr* arbitrary declaration instead of reasonable conviction. In cookery books of a few years ago the reader is bidden to do a thing at one time, and leave it undone on a precisely similar occasion. ite gradations of heat, frimometers, even thermometers, were unknown. Water boiled or simmered, was lukewarm or cold, as if the four words comprehended all the variations of temperature, or at any rate were fixed points having magical effect upon every substance used as food. Only a few — a very few — scientific facts have been as yet applied to everyday cookery. The genealogy of each might pro- bably be traced from the treatise to the lecture, thence to one book, now to all. It is curious also to see that there are some processes in cookery for which every one now assigns a reason, while others, equally common, every one is content to follow unreasoning. It is safe to assert that supporting or condemning all such processes there is scientific fact, and if every intelligent cook would try to find out the reason for what is done, our knowledge would soon emerge from its present chaotic condition. io8 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT REASONS FOR COOKING Food is prepared and cooked for six reasons : (i) To render mastication easy ; (2) to facilitate and hasten digestion ; (3) to convert certain naturally hurtful substances into nutritious foods ; (4) to eliminate harmful foreign elements evolved in food (e.g. the tinea of tapeworm in beef and mutton ; trichinae in pork ; the ptomaines resulting from tissue waste) ; (5) to combine the right foods in proper proportions for the needs of the body ; (6) to make it agreeable to the palate and pleasing to the eye. It may be said that the last " reason " is in flat contradiction to number two ; that is only apparently so. Apart from the purely aesthetic value of an agreeable meal, and a well-spread table (and certainly no one will wish that any pleasure or beauty' should be gratuitously foregone), there remain many solid arguments for reason number six. " The eye does half the eating." The street boy who flattens his nose against the pastrycook's window-pane while his mouth waters at the sight of the good things within ; the animal who, before he is killed, is shown food, in order that he may produce pepsine ; the starving man whose pangs are even sharper when he smells some one else's good dinner ; all are so many witnesses that the sight and smell of food cause the digestive juices to flow more abun- dantly. Pleasant flavours are a necessity of diet. No man could be nour- ished on tasteless food, though arranged on the most approved scientific basis. No man can live healthily on a monotonous diet, though there may be nothing wanting from the point of view of chemical analysis. The health of the inmates of public institutions has over and over again shown noticeable improvement by reason of some change in the dietary, not implying greater expenditure, nor greater nourishment, nor even alteration of constituents. As in all human affairs there are facts to be reckoned with that science cannot foretell or explain. Mastication acts mechanically in subdividing food and so exposing a greater surface to the action of the digestive juices with which it afterwards comes in contact. It acts chemically by reason of the digestive power of saliva on starch. Among animals there are some gramnivora that spend a large part of their time in chewing their food, the flow of saliva being very profuse ; there are others, chiefly carni- vora, that bolt food whole, and afterwards digest at leisure. Pre- pared food is more or less divided, so that to some extent mastication is superseded. For the rest, in the kitchen starch is hydrated, fibre softened or made brittle, dough vesiculated, albumen coagulated, and indigestible matter removed. Any one may perceive how impossible it would be to masticate a mouthful of flour, and how raw meat would clog the teeth. Hurrying over our meals, as we do, we should fare badly if all the grinding and subdividing of human food had to be accomplished by human teeth. INTRODUCTION TO COOKERY 109 Action of Heat. — The most important results of cookery are < ascribed to the action of heat upon the various constituents ot tun- Many foods that we now cat would become use-less t<> m.mkmd if we had to eat them raw. Cooking may not always alter th.« chcmie.il constitution of a food, but even then it may entirely change it tie \il value to mankind. As a matter of fact, however, heat does alter the chemical nature of a great many foods to a consi<! Uent. Still, even if the change may be nothing that chemical analysis can detect, yet it is perceptible to every one who eats a dinner. There is no greater mistake than to suppose that the chemical analysis of a food tells us its value. Flesh and bones, and fat and heat can be, by some warm-blooded animals, obtained from a diet of grass or woody fibre, but we should starve in the midst of such plenty. Many of the changes wrought by heat arc easily explained. \Vln-t h«-r albumen is barely coagulated or is hard and horny, whether iibre is shrivelled or swelled, whether gelatine is dry and brittle or dissolved it does not take a scientific head to discover. But science tells us wl-y these things are, and so enables us to bring our food readily into what- ever state we will. Given certain food, one cook so manipulates it that the consumer is well nourished and pleased ; another cook leaves him hungry and discontented. Combination of Foods. — In preparing food we must rcmcmbei :nbinc all necessary foods in a right proportion. Some fo<n: deficient in one n -me superabundant in another : a little addition here and there helps digestion and supplies the- body with wh.it it m-<-ds. All cooks do this in obedience to the natural promptm- 9 of the appetite. To rice, rich in starch, they add butter ai with peas, they serve fat bacon ; salt-fish has less nourishment than nice ; beef steak is balanced by boiled potatoes. Hut the customs of the kitchen often err, and we have much to learn that our artificially stimulated appetites fail to teach. Not only is the deficient supplied, but the indk Bran from flour, paring from potatoes, cellulose from vegetables go to feed animals whose digestions are stronger than ours, and who utilise our discarded food to produce other in a form more fitted to our powers. Another service that cookery does is to economize our food by :ig it. Part of what we eat is used as fuel or heat-giving food — is burnt or oxidized, to keep the heat of the body at a certain point. Wherever we live and whatever we do, as long as we are in health our body temperature is always 98° Fahr. neither more nor less. \\hen ke cold food some of the heat of the body has to be used to lu at the same reason that when we put fresh coals on the fire- the. raturc of the room is lowered for a time. So we take our warm and use coals to do what our food must otherwise do. There no HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT are burners that give a very brilliant light with little gas, because the spare heat of the flame is used to heat the gas that is presently to be burnt. We warm our food on precisely the same principle. Very hot food is always unwholesome, but warm food always goes further and is more nourishing than cold. Amount of Food. — A day's ration for a healthy man of average size, doing moderate work, has been reckoned as follows : — Oz. AVOIRDUPOIS. 1. Water . . > .' v . . . 4i 2. Albuminoids ..... 3 3. Fats, starch, sugar, etc. . 14 4. Salts ....... i For a woman, also working, the rations may be somewhat smaller, the proportions being the same, but the total about 3 oz. less. This seems a small allowance, but when we remember that it is reckoned as dry food, and that food as we get it is always moist, gener- ally containing half or rather more than half its weight of water, it appears that the food altogether should weigh about 40 ozs. The quantity required varies, however, very much within the limits of health. Every man requires more food if he works hard, and less if he has no work to do. Even doing the same work no two men will eat exactly the same, and it is only possible to calculate by taking an average of a large number of eaters. Generally speaking, more food is required in cold weather and cold climates than in hot. But it is necessary that all these four classes of elements should be represented in our daily food, and in something like the above proportion. If we have too little of any one class we are sure to be ill, and if one class were to be quite left out we should die, even though we have plenty of other foods. As to the water, there is not much to be said in addition to the remarks in the chapter on Beverages. By whatever name we call our beverages, the chief constituent of them is water, and were we given but one food we could exist longer on water alone than upon any other, except milk. In every food, even when artificially dried, there is a percentage of water, and taking foods one with another there is about half water. But the amount varies ; in lettuce, 96 per cent, is water ; in onions, 91 ; in lean meat, 75 ; in wheat, 14. Artificially dried substances are ready to take up water from the atmosphere, a fact of practical interest to the housewife, who will remember that oatmeal, maize-meal, biscuits, and the like, soon become flabby and moist if they are left in the open air. It is generally agreed that animals thrive better on moist food than on dry food with water. INTRODUCTION TO COOKERY in Carbonates and Salts include chloride of sodium, or common salt, as well as potash, phosphates of lime, and iron. Common salt is a neces- sary food, but the fact is that many persons now-a-days get too much of it in the form of salt fish and flesh. It is the only mineral habitually added to food as such. Potash salts we find in all fresh fruits and vegetables. Probably no defect in diet is more common than a want of these, especially in our large towns. Lime is necessary for the building up of bones and teeth. We look for it in milk for the young, and in whole grains, and we know that it has been missing when \ve see weak and distorted limbs and broken teeth. Iron is generally thought of as a physic and not as a food. It is, however, a necessary constituent of the blood, and is chiefly derived in an organized form from fresh vegetables. It is also largely present in many natural tonic waters. Starch or floury Foods are the cheapest and most abundant of all, so that if people have enough of any food they are likely to have enough of these. Over-fed persons are an exception to this rule, for too small a proportion of their diet is starchy. Bread, potatoes, rice, barley and all the floury foods contain more starch than anything else, and cornflour, arrowroot, sago and tapioca are nearly pure starches. There is much starch too in beans, peas and lentils, though they are generally spoken of as albuminoids, or flesh-forming foods, because of the vi-ry large amount of legumin that they contain. There is no starch in milk, but there is sugar, which replaces it. An infant can make no use of starchy food, having no power to digest it. Heated to 200° or 400° starch becomes dextrine, known too as " British Gum." The crust of a loaf, biscuits and baked flour all show dextrine. Sugar and treacle are good foods and substitutes for starch. They are, however, apt to produce acidity in grown-up persons if used too freely, though children can and do eat large quantities without inconvenience. The fats, starches and sugars are called heat-producers, because they are oxidized or burnt in the body to keep up the temperature to its proper degree. From the starches and sugars fat is deposited, if more is consumed than is required to maintain the heat of the body ; therefore, the way to get thin is to eat li'ttle or none of these, or, better still, to take plenty of exercise and let them become completely oxidized. Fat.— Fat, whether it is in the form of butter, cream, dripping, meat, bacon, oil, or by any other name, is necessary for food, and many are the persons that suffer in health from want of it, especially among the poor, who cannot afford the dearer fats, or do not know the cheaper, and among the sickly, who cannot — or fancy they cannot — digest fat in any form. If it can be digested one fat is as good a food as another. Cod- liver oil and cream are the easiest to digest. Fats that are greatly heated decompose, and are always difficult of digestion, which is thr reason why fried food often disagrees. Many persons, who cannot eat a lump of fat with meat hot or cold, can eat buttered toast, 112 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT suet pudding, or lightly fried bacon, or fat in one of the many forms in which it is served. Fat and starch can replace one another to some extent, but there must be some fat, and it is better in this climate to have some starchy or floury foods. In the coldest countries plants will not grow, and so starch is unknown. Albuminoids is a term that covers albumen and the food substances which serve the same purpose as albumen. Sometimes they are spoken of as flesh formers, or as nitrogenous foods, because they all contain nitrogen, and neither fats, starches, nor sugars do. Nothing that lives and grows is without nitrogen, and so we find it in large or small amounts in all plants as well as all animals. Our supplies of albuminoids, or flesh-formers, are obtained from lean meat, fish, poultry, game, as milk curd or cheese, eggs, gluten in flour, fibrine in oats, and in beans, peas and lentils. Albumen is found in many other foods besides eggs. The blood of many animals contains it, and we have presently to speak of albumen in meat. In most vegetable juices and in many seeds and nuts we find it also. Fibrine is also both animal and vegetable. From meat, wheat and other corn grains we obtain our daily supply. Casein is an albumenoid that we find in the curd of milk, and in the pulses, beans, peas and lentils. Vegetable casein is sometimes called legumin, but it was given that name before it was known to be practically the same as animal casein of milk. In China cheese is made of curdled vegetable casein. Gelatine and some substances nearly like it are known as gelatinoids, and they can replace albumen in part, though not altogether. METHODS OF COOKERY Six Methods of Cookery are commonly spoken of, viz. i. Broiling; 2. Roasting; 3. Baking; 4. Boiling; 5. Stewing; 6. Frying. BROILING Rules for Broiling Meat. — The rules for broiling remain the same always. A hot fire at first, with a hot gridiron well greased. Fre- quent turning. No holes made in the surface, nor cuts to see if the meat is cooked. The meat must be turned frequently so that it may be heated and the albumen may coagulate all over and not merely on one side. Tonj are sold to turn it over with, because they cannot be used to stick intc the meat and make holes for the juice to run out, but a knife or spool or a fork run into the fat answers just as well in the hands of a cool who knows the reason why a blunt instrument is recommended. Soi few broiled things should not be turned : a mushroom, for instance, is broiled stalk upwards. The inside of a split fish should first go to the fire, and afterwards the skin. Paper is wrapped round salmon and other fresh- water fish. INTRODUCTION TO COOKERY 11;, It is not an economical way of cooking, for though quickly done it takes a great deal of fuel to make a good broiling fire. The meat loses weight more than in most ways of cooking. And it is only suited for tender, juicy meat from the best joints. ROASTING This is the favourite national method of cookery. The immense stone hearths on which huge logs flared up an open chimney were just adapted for this style of cookery, and the open coal fires in almost general use until the middle of the iQth century were almost as prodigal of fuel. To roast before the fire could have become a national custom only where fuel was cheap. We now roast in the oven more often than before the fire, but even so it is not an economical way of cooking, because of the much greater amount of fuel necc to heat the oven than to boil a saucepan. The waste in roasting is also great, from a third to a quarter of the total weight of a joint is lost in the process; only a small part of the loss being recoverable in gravy or dripping. Furthermore, it is a method <>nlv suited to the tender parts of meat, and does not answer at all for sinewy and gelatinous meat which is the least expensive. A; this has to be set the fact that roast meat is agreeable to most persons' taste, and is generally considered digestible. As in broiling, the object is to harden the surface albumen and so to imprison the juices of the meat. This can only be done by making it very hot for a short time : the heat must afterwards !><• lessened by drawing the joint from the fire, or by cooling the mm. Tin- larger the joint the smaller the fire, lest it should In- burnt ouNide betme it is cooked enough, but it should always be hot FIRST, and cool afterwards. In a perfectly roasted joint, the outside albumen should be thoroughly hardened, but inside it should only reach the moderate heat that just coagulates the albumen and swells and softens the fibrine ; cooked more than this, the fibre becomes hard, and separ- ates into bundles that offer an active resistance to teeth and dig< organs. It can scarcely happen to a large joint, but often does to a small one, and this is the reason why a small joint is often dry and hard. It is a sign of good meat and of good roasting to lose little in weight. Generally speaking, the loss is more before the fire than in the oven. Count Rumford invented a double dripping-pan that cannot be too strongly recommended. The water in the under pan boils and prevents the fat in the upper pan from becoming hotter than boil- ler, so that the dripping is neither wasted nor burnt, and there is no horrible odour of fat burning on the floor of the oven. I ;ig pans arc- among the few cooking uU nsils that economize their own cost in a very short time. ii4 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT BAKING Baking naturally comes next to roasting ; the two often do duty for one another. As in all other methods of cookery the surrounding air may be many degrees hotter than boiling water, but the food is not appreciably hotter until it has lost water by evaporation, after which it may readily burn. The hot air of the oven is greedy of water, and evaporation is great, so that ordinary baking (i.e., just to shut the food into a hot-air chamber) is not suited for anything that needs moist heat. But baking often means to put some dry substance in a dish with water and to shut it in the air chamber, and under such cir- cumstances it amounts to much the same as boiling with surface heat added. To test the heat of an oven special thermometers are made. For meat the temperature should be about 300° Fahr.; for bread 360°, afterwards lowered ; for pastry about the same, the richest pastry requiring the hottest oven. The heat may be tested with a sheet of writing paper, which curls up brown in a pastry oven, or with flour, which takes every shade from coffee colour to black, when sprinkled on the floor of the oven. Experienced cooks test very accurately with the hand. The hot air of the oven sometimes imparts disagreeable flavours to the things cooked ; but this can be avoided by keeping the oven scrupulously clean and having it well ventilated. BOILING Boiling is generally thought to be the easiest method of cooking. Certainly nothing could be less troublesome than the simple process boiling or stewing meat, and yet beef tough and flavourless, or a 1( of mutton boiled to rags is the rule rather than the exception, success of this culinary method depends entirely upon the liquid which the material is immersed or partially immersed being kept at suitable temperature. The temperature of boiling water at sea-level is 212° Fahr. and Cent. In a mine, where the level is considerably lower than th; of the sea, the water reaches a higher temperature before boilii because the air being more dense offers greater resistance to it ; coi sequently the water must acquire more heat and force to overcoi this resistance before it can boil. Conversely, as we ascend a mounts we leave behind the more dense part of the atmosphere, and the colui of air, reaching from the earth into space, becomes less in height, so exerts less pressure on the surface of the water, which consequenl boils at a lower temperature. But, whether the water boils gentl] or is in a state of violent ebullition the temperature remains the same and anything immersed in the water will cook at an equal ra1 although there will be a wide difference between the tender juicy joii INTRODUCTION TO COOKERY 115 cooked at simmering point and the tough stringy meat that has been quickly boiled. Count Rumford, writing on this subject, said : — " Causing anything to boil violently in any culinary process is very ill-judged ; for not only does it not expedite in the smallest degree the process of cooking, but it occasions a most enormous waste of fuel, and by driving away with the steam many of the more volatile and more savoury particles of the ingredients renders the victuals less good and less palatable. Five times as much heat is required to send off in steam any given quantity of water already boiling hot as would be necessary to heat the same quantity of the cold water to the boiling point." In order to find out the right heat, we must first know which of several substances we have to deal with, and how each one of them is acted upon by heat. The simplest thing to boil is an egg. The white is little more than albumen and water ; the yolk contains albumen and water with some oil and some sulphur, but the albumen is of a rather different character. We have seen that albumen begins to coagulate at 145°, sets into a jelly at 1 60°, and at a higher temperature quickly becomes tough and hard. Eggs should therefore be gently boiled. Some recommend the plan of putting the egg into a saucepan of boiling water, taking the pan off the fire and letting it cook so. Others prefer to put the egg in cold water and to take it off directly it boils. In boiling lean meat we must deal with albumen again. Just as the white of an egg hardens by boiling, so does the albumen in a leg of mutton. Plunge it into boiling water, and on the surface an imper- vious crust is formed that prevents the juices of the meat from escaping. Once that is done, the boiling should cease, for the toughening of the albumen throughout the joint is as undesirable as the escape of the juices. Boiled meat intended for table should never be put into cold water : firstly, because the surface albumen is dissolved, and afterwards, v, h a the water boils, hardens and rises as scum ; also, secondly, because the salts and extractives are dissolved, leaving the meat dry and flavour- less. Cold water first and fast boiling afterwards (the common way of cooking) is the worst possible way, for the meat is not only dry, but hard. If the meat is to be boiled for soup the object is to extract all the j uice, the soluble albumen, and as much gelatine as may be, so that it should be cut up to multiply surfaces, put into cold water, and heated slowly to boiling point. To attain contrary ends, contrary means must be used. The exceptions to this rule, if any, for boiling meat are in the case of sinewy and tcndonous meat where gelatine is abundant. To make it soft and eatable long continued boiling is necessary. Calf's head and veal tendons, cow heel, and tripe are often put into cold water. Flour Foods, such as macaroni, rice, sago, cornflour and flour puddings kept all the time in boiling water, in order to burst the starch n6 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT granules. The mechanical action of fast bubbling water is often useful, partly in preventing grains of rice, etc., from settling to the bottom of the saucepan. Bailed Fish. — In the case of fish, the water should be kept below bubbling point, otherwise it may crack the skin and so spoil the appearance of the fish ; and, on the other hand, if the fish is put into cold water, it, like meat, has much of its goodness and flavour ex- tracted. So a compromise has to be made here, and the best plan is to put it into water as hot as the skin will bear (which varies with each fish), and to put salt with the water, or lemon-juice, or vinegar, because albumen sooner coagulates if acid }s added to it. Vinegar with a poached egg answers the same purpo'se. Vegetables, with few exceptions, should be pot into boiling water. STEWING Stewing almost invariably requires a heat much below that of boiling water : 165° is about stewing point. Whatever is stewed, parts with much of its goodness to the surrounding liquor, which should not, therefore, be wasted. Less liquid is used than in boiling. It is a method particularly suitable for all gelatinous meat, such as knuckles, heads and feet, and for all tough, fibrous meat, because long-continued, moderate heat, with moisture, is the best way of bringing gelatine and tough fibre into an eatable condition. It is the cheapest method of cooking for several reasons. Little heat is required, therefore little fuel used. Nothing is wasted ; whatever goes into the pot comes out. The cheapest and coarsest meat can be used ; and very little attention is needed while cooking. In order that all the juices may not be ex- tracted from the meat it is sometimes fried before stewing ; this gives it a good colour, and also hardens the surface albumen and prevents the soluble matters from escaping. A stew should not bubble and boil ; it should stand by the side of the stove, and should never do more than bubble occasionally and leisurely at one side of a large pan. A jar well tied down and set in a cool oven makes a capital stewing utensil, or a jar set in a saucepan and surrounded by boiling water. One difficulty is that carrots and turnips when they are old and tough ought to be boiled, and so do not agree with a small piece of stewed meat. Cooked together, one must be spoiled. It is the best plan to boil the vegetables first, and then to use them and their liquor for the stew. A common mistake is to put in too much liquid. The raw meat supplies some liquid by its own juices and many do not sufficiently realize that at the moderate heat of stewing there is very little waste by evaporation. FRYING Frying has been described as boiling in fat. It is not a correct phrase, because the fat is not boiled, and the thing fried is not always immersed INTRODUCTION TO COOKERY 117 in fat. It is the quickest mode of cooking, because melted fat or oil can be brought to a high temperature, and, by contact with it, the food fried is very quickly and very much heated. All fried food is heated beyond boiling water point on its surface ; if the frying is prolonged the meat is over heated throughout, so that this method is not fitted for food that should be slowly cooked at a low temper- ature, such as tough meat. The point to which fats or oils may be heated varies, some burning much more readily than others. About 350° to 400° is a suitable temperature ; it can be higher, it should sometimes be lower for things that need slow cooking, but it is usually better to begin at a high temperature and lower it afterwards. The temperature is always lowered, by putting in the cold things to be cooked, to a degree that is determined by the relative quantity of fat and food, and by the sort of food. The temperature can be taken accurately with a thermometer con- structed specially for the purpose ; it can be taken approximately by several homely devices. 1. Drop in a few drops of water. If the fat bubbles thereupon, it must be hotter than 212° ; if it bubbles smartly it may be taken at over 300°. 2. Drop in a piece of bread and take it out at the end of half a minute. If the bread is crisp the fat is about 350° or more. 3. Parsley that becomes crisp immediately it is dropped in mean at 350° or more. 4. The more violent the bubbling when anything is put in the hotter the fat. 5. A thin, filmy, blue smoke rises when the fat is fit for frying. .m<l then becomes thicker until the fat is burning, when there is a 4ett0t cloud. 6. Fat, unless it has left off bubbling and is quite still, is never hot enough to fry. These rules are true of all fat, and more or less of all frying. But there are two ways of frying, known to cooks as DRY FRYING, and frying in deep fat ; the later method being also known as '• French frying." The former is more common ; the latter is more economical, and produces better results. Deep frying or frying in a saucepan, means that there must be fat enough to cover what is fried, and a pan deep enough to contain it. It is economical, for the fat can be used over and over again, and, if sufficiently hot, does not soak into the food fried, which consequently comes out quite dry and without any of the greasy moisture of frying- pan cookery. In the long run less fat is used than for ordinary dry frying; though, of course, there is a greater outlay to begin with. An iron or steel saucepan must be used, as the heat of the fat melts the solder of a tin pan ; it is a good plan to keep one for the purpose. n8 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT Frying baskets should be used for all delicate frying (see p. 302) so as to do away with the need for much handling, and to lift all the things out at the same moment. Failing a basket, an iron spoon or slice may be used, but not of tin or Britannia metal, as they would melt. Baskets should not be used for fritters, which stick to the wires. As the basket always expands with heat, it should not be a very tight fit for the pan. Dry Frying is so called because of the small amount of fat used, not because of the dryness of what is fried, for things fried this way are very apt to be greasy. Sometimes the frying is so " dry " that only just fat enough is used to prevent the meat from sticking to the pan, just as the bars of a gridiron are greased. The iron pan is heated, and the meat is cooked by heat directly communicated from the hot iron. Such frying, in fact, is an imitation of broiling, and usually an unsuccessful imitation. There should always be at least enough fat to cover the surface of the pan, and it always should be made as hot as possible without burning, before beginning to fry. To put cold fat and cold pan and cold chop on the stove and let them all heat together is always a mistake sure to result in a greasy, juiceless chop with burnt fat. WHATEVER AND HOWEVER YOU FRY, FIRST HEAT THE FAT. Fat for Frying. — Melted suet or fat can be used for French frying, and mutton is less likely to burn than beef, but either or both together will do. Lard should never be used, for it always leaves an unpleasant flavour and costs more than beef or mutton fat. Oil is to be preferred to, and can, without burning, be made hotter than any fat. Olive oil is often recommended, but it is costly, and much of the oil sold as olive is largely adulterated with cotton-seed oil, which is far cheaper than any fat used as food. Unfortunately, though a great deal is sold, not much is sold under its right name or at a fair price, except to cookshops or to the vendors of fried fish. Many specially prepared fats are now on the market ; they vary greatly. Some are merely beef fat, freed from skin and blood, and melted into cakes ; these can be used like suet. Others are solidified cotton seed oil, purified nut oil, etc. These are sold plain or as blends. Some of them are excellent for frying purposes, and are economical where much frying is required. Animal fats, with the exception of refined lard, burn quicker than vegetable fats. Butter is the soonest spoilt by high temperatures. To clarify fat or suet for frying, it should be cut up into small pieces, put into a saucepan with just enough water to prevent burning, heated over a slow fire until the liquid fat is quite clear and then strained. The pieces strained out are an economical substitute for suet for short cakes, puddings, etc. After using several times, the fat can be purified by pouring it whilst hot into a pan of water and well stirring ; the pieces and impurities settle at the bottom of the cake of fat or sink into the water. The fat should be also occasion- ally strained when cool ; if it be strained directly after frying it will INTRODUCTION TO COOKERY 119 melt any soldered strainer. To fry well the food should be dried. Fish can be lightly coated with flour ; vegetables well-dried in a cloth. Before dropping into hot fat anything that contains much water lift the pan off the stove, as the fat is likely to bubble over and catch fire. Many things that are fried are previously covered with egg and breadcrumbs, or flour and milk or batter, in order that a crust may be formed round them to keep the juice in and the fat out. The essential thing is to cover them completely and leave no crack. HINTS FOR AMATEUR COOKS. The two most common faults with amateur cooks are not giving sufficient time and attention to the details of preparation, and ignorance of the varying action of heat. It is admitted that the making of soups and sauces is a test of a good cook. Now, both soups and sauces (with a few exceptions, which prove the rule) require very careful preliminary preparation and close attention during cooking. The time devoted to planning, cleaning, chopping, paring or trussing, as the case may be, is not lost. The actual process of cooking is im- mensely facilitated, and success half assured, if everything has been properly prepared beforehand. Then, as regards the utilization of heat ; it is essential in boiling and roasting that the temperature should be very high at first, to prevent loss of nutriment, and then be lowered to prevent the meat being scorched and dried. In stewing, however (and this applies to soup making) the heat should be moderate and the cooking slow. Frying in most cases should be done in hot fat, so a deep vessel full of oil or fat at a very high temperature should be used. Omelets, pancakes, and a few other preparations only require to be placed in a pan with a little butter ; in such cases the fire should be fairly brisk. When using an oven, if the dish requires long cooking, get up a high temperature at first and then lower it slightly ; but pastry requires quick cooking in a fairly brisk oven. All dishes should be duly flavoured with the necessary condiments during the process of cooking, except in the case of roast meats, \\ hen salt should only be applied just before serving. Water is a solvent, so all meat and vegetables should be plunged into fast boiling water, the object is to extract flavour for making soups. Dried peas and beans, however, should be put on in cold water, as it is necessary to soften them. Amateur cooks may prepare dainty breakfasts and suppers if they give their attention to the peculiarities of electric heated stewpans, or the still more convenient chafing-dish. The dishes prepared in these vessels are generally of the stew or daube order. For I a fairlv large amount of sauce is allowed, and the cooking should be somewh it moderate ; for daubes very little moisture is allowed and the pan must be closely covered, apply high temperature, then lower 120 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT and finish with reduced heat. Gas as well^as electric heat and the spirit lamp can be easily regulated as desired. For outdoor cooking (picnics and camping) the chafing-dish is useful, but should be supplemented with a tinplate oil cooking stove, which generally provides an oven, hot plate, and ring for kettle or stewpan. For emergencies a good substitute for cream can be made wTith fresh milk, a little butter and flour. If milk cannot be procured for tea and coffee, use an egg beaten up to a froth. If fresh- water fish is caught and has to be cooked, wash thoroughly in clean water ; if small, fry ; if large, stew with a sauce, in which wine or vinegar and aromatic herbs are used, PRESERVATION OF FOOD. An important consideration is, how food may be best preserved with a view to its being suitably dressed. More waste is often occa- sioned by the want of judgment, or necessary care in this particular than by any other cause. In the absence of proper places for keeping provisions, a hanging safe, suspended in any airy situation, is the best substitute. A well-ventilated larder, dry and shady, is better for meat and poultry, which require to be kept for some time ; and the utmost skill in the culinary art will not compensate for the want of proper attention to this particular. Though it is advisable that animal .food should be hung up in the open air till its fibres have lost some degree of their toughness, yet, if it is kept till it loses its natural sweetness, its flavour has become deteriorated, and, as a wholesome comestible, it has lost many qualities conducive to health. As soon, therefore, as the slightest trace of putrescence is detected, it has reached its highest degree of tenderness, and should be dressed immediately. During the sultry summer months, it is difficult to procure meat that is not either tough or tainted. It should, therefore, be well examined when it comes in, and if flies have touched it, the part must be cut off, and the remainder well wiped with a clean cloth dipped in warm water and vinegar. In loins of meat, the long pipe which runs in the cavity of the bone should be taken out, as it is apt to taint, as also the kernels of beef. Rumps and aitch-bones of beef, should not be purchased when bruised. All these things ought to enter into the consideration of every household manager ; and great care should be taken that nothing is thrown away, or suffered to be wasted in the kitchen, which might. by proper management, be turned to a good account. The shank bones of mutton, so little esteemed in general, give rich- ness to soups or gravies, if well soaked and bruised before they are added to the boiling liquor. INTRODUCTION TO COOKERY Roast beef bones, or shank-bones of ham, make excellent stock for soup. When the whites of eggs are used for jelly, confee tioiiei y, or other purposes, a pudding or a custard should be made, that the yolks may be used. All things likely to be wanted should be in readiness : sugars of different sorts ; currants washed, picked, and perfectly dry ; spices pounded, and kept in very small bottles closely corked, or in can- isters, as we have already directed. Not more of these should be purchased at a time than are likely to be used in the course of a month. Much waste is always prevented by keeping every article in the place best suited to it. In very cold weather, vegetables touched by the frost should be brought into the kitchen early in the morning and soaked in i old \\ater. ibles keep best on a stone floor, if the air be excluded ; nn.it in a cold, dry place ; as also salt, sugar, sweetmeats, candles dried meats and hams. Rice, and all sorts of cereals for pudding, should be i . en-d to preserve them from insects ; but even this will not prevent them from being affected by these destroyers, if they arc long and car* kept in a damp place. J'ears and grapes should be strung, and hung up in :\ c<3ld, dry plaee. Apples should be laid on straw, after being carefully \ and should not touch each other. They keep better on wood than on china. ADULTERATION. The Act passed in 1872 for the prevention of Adulteration of Food, Drink and Drugs declares that persons who adulter. of food, or who sell those that they know to have been adultr whether with material injurious to the health or not, are punishable with line or imprisonment. The vendor is bound to declare sm h admixture to the purchaser at the time of the sale. The insp- under the local authorities arc directed to procure samples from time to time, and to submit them to the public analyst. Any purchaser may have any article of food, or drink, or drugs analy/.ed by the public analyst of his district on payment of a sum not less than half-a-crown and not more than half-a-guinea. In olden times the prices of the chief necessaries of life were regu- lated by authority. Such interference has long been a thing of the Vendors may ask any price they please for the things they sell, and the legislature only insists that no fraud shall be practised on the public, and that goods shall be sold under their rightful names. 122 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT PRICES OF FOOD Every one nowadays will agree that the seller should fix the price at which he will sell his wares. For the prices vary according as the supply of the commodity in question is plentiful and the demand great. An abundant wheat harvest is followed by cheap bread ; but we do not all so readily understand, that not bread alone but all perishable articles must be dear one year and cheap another. It may sometimes happen that the fall in price never reaches the consumer, but stops short with the wholesale or retail trader, although this tendency is to some extent counteracted by the competition in retail trade. Overcharging is most likely to occur where the customers cannot readily transfer their custom to a neighbouring shop, as, for instance, in isolated country places, or when the customers are in debt, or under obligation to the shopkeeper, having perhaps been supported by him during times of scarce work. It is often for these reasons that in the poorest and most wretched neighbourhoods the highest prices rule. Customers are often induced by considerations of fashion or conveni- ence to pay high prices ; but they can scarcely be said to be over- charged, since they choose to pay for such costly luxuries as spacious premises, handsome shop-fronts, numerous shop assistants and long credit. Economical people are compelled to go without these and many other things that it is pleasant to have. DIET But it is not only the weight and the cost that have to be studied for economy's sake. We have already seen that it is possible to starve in the midst of plenty ; to starve, that is, for want of one necessary constituent of food, though all the others may be supplied in superabundance. A good housekeeper will, therefore, take care that upon her table is set a variety of well-chosen food, and very often indeed, by the exercise of a little care in dieting, she may prevent the outlay of much care in nursing and of much money in doctors' bills. People suffer from diseases of mal-nutrition much more often through bad management than because of a short purse. It will often be found, especially with children, that they are ill for want of certain kinds of food and yet will not take them in their ordinary form ; it is then the part of the housekeeper to reproduce the food so that it is not recognized, or to find the same substance in some other form. COST AND ECONOMY Again, two foods may cost the same and weigh the same, and yet one may be far more economical than the other. For one may be very nourishing, containing a kind of food that is not cheaply to be bought, and it may besides be such that it takes up water and INTRODUCTION TO COOKERY 123 increases in weight in the cooking. The other is a moist food, and will lose weight before it comes to table, or it may be starchy food, which can always be bought at a low price, or it may contain bone and waste, which is not properly to be called food at all. One very good contrast is afforded by a pound of rumpsteak at fourteenpence, and a pound of beans or lentils at twopence. Both are bought for the sake of flesh-forming, or nitrogenous, food. From neither is there actual waste to be cut away. But the broiled meat will not weigh more than 12 ozs. when it comes to table, and the pulse will have taken up more than its own weight of water, which costs nothing. We have two pounds of food for twopence against three-quarters of a pound for one and twopence. This must always be remembered in dealing with all dry foods. One pound of Indian meal weighs when cooked three pounds ; half a pound of macaroni increases to two pounds, we are told by Rumford. Comparing rice to flour, if both are the same price, flour is cheaper because it is less starchy, and people who reckon such small economies as these are generally ill-fed, needing flesh-formers, which are chiefly to be found in the costlier foods. As a third example we may take beefsteak as compared to mutton chops : they are usually about the same price per pound, but there can be no question which is the cheaper of the two, for the beef has no bone and little fat. DIGESTION Digestion is a complicated process, and, as a rule, a slow one It may be interfered with cither by physical short-comings such as ab- sence of, or bad, teeth, muscular flaccidity, or nervous exhaustion, or by functional derangements causing a deficiency in the quality or quantity of saliva, gastric, or other secretions, which are poured into the stomach or intestines during the process of digestion. As a rule cooking facilitates digestion, partly by softening the food, and partly by inducing chemical changes which would otherwise have to be in- duced by functional activity in the stomach or intestines. In some instances, however, cooking hardens the tissues, and so retards diges- tion. Over roasting or quick boiling, of meats usually toughens the fibres. Fat retards digestion, as it has to undergo a long process of emulsifying before being absorbed. Salt and spices, on the other hand, hasten digestion by stimulating the secretion of the necessary juices. But an over indulgence in spices of all kinds will, in the long run, irritate the mucous membrane of the intestinal canal, induce a congestive tendency of the secretory organs, and so produce functional disorganization, resulting in slow and painful digestion. Over- seasoning brings about an unhealthy condition of the liver. Too much liquid in the stomach immediately before or while eating dilutes the 124 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT saliva and digestive juices, weakening their activity. Too long fasting turns the natural alkalinity of the saliva to acidity, resulting in heartburn. Coffee and tea retard digestion. They should not be partaken of at a meal when meat is eaten to any extent. In the aged, however, good tea is undoubtedly beneficial by reducing tissue waste. Wines and light beers in moderation gently stimulate digestion, but strong beers and alcohol greatly prolong the process. Under normal conditions, it is well that the digestive process should not be prolonged beyond four to four-and-a-half hours. For invalids and persons with " weak stomachs," the time allowed should be much less. It is, therefore, necessary to study the table of digestibility, which has been compiled from the result of repeated experiments by a number of doctors. It must, of course, be remembered that with invalids, the weak, children, and aged persons, digestion is prolonged beyond the normal indicated below, DIGESTIVE TIME TABLE Food T me Hours Minutes. Apples, sweet vrftfT Raw .... I •?o ,, green . . . . « Stewed . j •3 r Boiled .... to Barley Soup 30 Boiled . . . . 2 0 Beans Boiled .... 2 30 Puree j 30 Beef, lean Roasted . 0^ o ,, tender Stewed . 2 45 Grilled . . . •3 0 Beef, fresh salted Boiled .... 0 2 45 6 0 Beets Boiled .... 45 Brains Boiled .... j t Bread, fresh Baked .... •7 30 Butler Melted .... J •? 30 ' Bread and Butter (with coffee) . Cabbage . . . . t Roasted . 3 45 •JQ Pickled . 30 Celery . ' . • 1 10173 iJs« -MU ^n Boiled 30 Chicken . ,i^v/. >;;;Tht. iL% u>.. .014: Boiled 3o Fricasseed 2 4? Cheese, okl 30 Custard Boiled A r Duck Roasted .... o Eel ... .... Roasted 6 o INTRODUCTION TO COOKERY DIGESTIVE TIME TABLE (continued). 125 Food. Preparation. Time. Hours. Minutes. Eggs fresh Raw 2 3 4 i 3 2 3 -i 4 4 2 2 2 3 2 2 2 2 3 3 5 2 3 3 2 5 3 2 I 3 3 <; 5 i 3 i i 4 6 2 I I 2 2 3 4 T 0 0 0 30 0 30 0 o 0 15 30 3° 30 o 30 30 15 0 o 15 o 55 30 30 30 15 15 30 0 15 30 C) 30 35 0 3° 30 0 0 0 o 30 30 IS 30 30 40 Soft boiled . . . Hard boiled Whipped (raw) Scrambled Boiled .... Fried .... Boiled .... Roasted .... Roasted .... Roasted .... Warmed . . . Fried or sauteed . Grilled Boiled .... Raw Fish (other than fat varieties). Fowls ." . . " Game (most kinds) .... Goose Hashed meat Liver (calves') (ox) Lamb Lentils Milk Boiled .... Boiled and broiled . Roasted .... Raw Mutton lean Nuts ( Jysters Stewed .... Stt'Wed .... Ko.K-d .... Roasted .... K'oasted .... :l'*d .... Fried or Kiked iU-d .... Raw Onions in king Pork, t'.it ,, salt Potatoes . Rice Salad Sausage :lli-d .... Smoked . . .1 . . Boiled .... Fried .... Stewed . . . Boiled .... Raw . Suet .... Soles SoiiKu h .... Salmon, fivsh smoked Stone Fruit Tapioi:;» Boiled . 1'olled . . . 'led .... K-.ash-il .... il.-d .... railed .... Koasted or grilled . •Mrd . '. . . Tripe '1 rout Turkey Turnips .... ; Venison 126 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT QUANTITIES AND MEASURES AVOIRDUPOIS WEIGHT. 1 6 Drachms — 1 6 Ounces = 14 Pounds — 28 Pounds =• 4 Quarters = 20 Hundredweight =«= i Drachm, i Ounce. Pound (lb.). Stone. Quarter (qr.). Hundredwt. Ton. APOTHECARIES' 20 Grains •= i Scruple — 20 grs. 3 Scruples •= i Drachm = 60 „ 8 Drachms =» i Ounce — 480 „ 12 Ounces = i Pound =-=5760 „ Apothecaries compound their medi- cines by this weight, but buy and sell their drugs by avoirdupois. APOTHECARIES' FLUID MEASURE 60 Minims =i Fluid Drachm. 8 Drachms = i Ounce. 20 Ounces =i Pint. 8 Pints =i Gallon. DRY MEASURE 2 Gallons 4 Pecks 3 Bushels 12 Sacks 8 Bushels 5 Quarters - i Peck (pk.). = i Bushel (bush.). «= i Sack. =- i Chaldron. = i Quarter (qr.). - i Load (Id.). LIQUID MEASURE 4 Gills = i Pint (pt.). 2 Pints — i Quart (qt.). 4 Quarts = i Gallon (gall.), QUANTITIES AND TIME Scales and weights for weighing are desirable in all culinary opera- tions, but they are not indispensable ; for weights and measures have their equivalents, as the appended tables will show. They may not be strictly exact, but they are sufficiently so for ordinary purposes. The " rule of thumb " system sometimes produces very good results, but it is uncertain, and it is better to have a rough guide than none ; and failing weights and scales, all ingredients should be measured in cups, spoons, or whatever utensil or vessel may be best suited to the quantity. But whether the ingredients are intended for a cake, pudding, soup or sauce, something more than exact weight and measure and careful mixing is required. The recipes give precise directions as to application of strong or gentle heat, and whether the vessels are to remain uncovered or otherwise. If these directions be disregarded, and soups or stews are allowed to reduce themselves by evaporation and rapid boiling, it naturally follows that the amount of liquid allowed for the stew is too little, and the quantity of thickening intended for the soup will be found too much. If eggs were of uniform size, and if flour always absorbed the same amount of liquid, it would be possible to state precisely how many eggs or how much milk would sufficiently moisten a given quantity of flour. As matters stand, indecisive terms and directions are sometimes unavoidable ; occasionally something must be left to the discretion and common-sense of the worker. THE SCIENCE OF COOKERY TABLE OF EQUIVALENTS 127 i Breakfastcupful of Water or Milk i.Teacupful ,, ,, 4 Tablespoonfuls „ ,, i Wineglassful ,, ,, MEASURE. . | pint. '. i ',', WEIGHT. Breakfastcupful of moist sugar (heaped) . . £ Ib. castor „ ,, . 7 ozs. rice „ „ . 7 ,, butter, lard or dripping (hpd.) 7 ,, suet (finely chopped) ,, . 4 ,, breadcrumbs, pressed in ,, . 4 ,, sago, tapioca, semolina ,, . 4 ,, flour, cornflour ,, „ . 4 ,, Tablespoonful of suet finely chopped (heaped) flour ,, moist sugar golden syrup Dessertspoonful of flour (heaped) . moist sugar golden syrup (level) marmalade ,, Saltspoonful is equal to Teaspoonful ,, Dessertspoonful ,, WEIGHT. i oz. i ton spoonful. dessertspoonful, tablespoon ful. 6 Ordinary-sized lumps of sugar weigh i oz. A piece of butter or fat, about the size of a small egg, weighs about i .. NOTE IT will be seen, on referring to the Recipes which follow, that by the original method of explanation adopted, the rules for the preparation of each dish are clearly and intelligibly indicated. We would recom- mend the young housekeeper, cook, or whoever may be engaged in the important task of " getting ready " the dinner or other meal, to follow precisely the order in which the Recipes are given. Thus, let them first place on their table all the Ingredients necessary ; then the Method of preparation will be quickly and easily managed. By carefully reading the Recipes there should not be the slightest difficulty in arranj ing a repast for any number of persons, and an accurate notion will gained of the Time required for the cooking of each dish, the perk when it is Seasonable, and its Average Cost. The prices are based on a careful study of the London Market lisl of the season, when the various articles are at their best. Where tl fluctuations are very considerable, the item is omitted from the c< culation. As stated, the prices are Average only, and must be modifie according to season, district and the supply of and demand for articles that may prevail. Notes are also given on the natural history of the different anirm and various edible articles in common use, indicating their habital characteristic features, and dietetic value, which from a practi< economical and educational point of view will be found both inte esting and serviceable. 128 SOUPS. SOUPS. CHAPTER VII. General directions for making Soups and Stock, with observations on the materials required for Soups. Thickenings and Flavourings. THE valuable dietetic properties of soup have been, and indeed still are, much overlooked in this country. Soup forms the first course of the ncal of those who dine in the true sense of the term, but its import. nice is a part of the every day diet is not sufficiently appreciated by the nultitnde in those islands. Yet no form of food is more digestible and .vlmlt some, nor does any other method of preparing food afford so many opportunities for utilizing material that would otherwise be u..Mr<l. ly a hundred years ago Count Rumford, the famous scientist md founder of the Royal Institution, wrote : — " The richness or quality of a soup depends more upon a proper hoice of ingredients, and a proper management of the fire in the com- nnation of those ingredients, than upon the quantity of solid nutritious natter employed ; much more upon the art and skill of the cook than ipon the sum laid out in the market." This remark is as true to-day as it was a century ago. The average Mies that the goodness of a soup depends upon the weight <>t :ie puts into it, and upon the size of the fire over which it is boil< -d. t will therefore be advisable to preface this chapter with a simple •it-ntiti.- account of a few of the most interesting and important f_u ts •Inch relate to the food we have to prepare, and the theory and chem- ious culinary operations. This is, therefore, the proper lace to treat of the quality of the flesh of animals, and to describe some I the conditions which affect its qualities. We will commence ith the consideration of age, and examine how far this affects the uality of the meat. 129 i3o HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT The Flesh of Animals. — During the period between the birth and maturity of animals their flesh undergoes very considerable changes. For instance, when the animal is young, the fluids in the tissues of the muscles contain a large proportion of albumin and gelatin. This albumin, which is also the chief component of the white of eggs, and is the essential constituent of protoplasm, the physical basis of life, possesses the peculiarity of coagulating or hardening at a certain temperature (160° F., the cooking point of meat) like the white of a boiled egg, and becomes no longer soluble or capable of being dissolved in water. As animals grow older gelatin gradually decreases in pro- portion to the fibrin (an organic compound substance which constitutes the solid matter that is deposited when blood coagulates) and to the other constituents of the flesh. The reason, therefore, why veal, lamb and young pork are white when cooked is that the large quantity of albumin contained in the fibres hardens, or becomes coagulated. The chief characteristic of young meat is the great proportion of gelatin contained in those parts that afterwards become hard or bony. The quality of the flesh of animals is influenced considerably by the nature of the food on which they have been fed, for the food supplies the material which produces the flesh. If the food is not suitable and good, the meat will necessarily be inferior. The flesh of animals fed on farinaceous produce, as corn, pulse, etc., is firm, well-flavoured and also economical in the cooking ; the flesh of those fed on juicy and pulpy substances, as roots, possesses these qualities in a somewhat less degree ; but the flesh of those whose food contains fixed oil, as linseed, is greasy, high-coloured and gross in the fat, and if such food has been used in large quantities, will have a rank flavour. Health of Animals. — It is indispensable to the good quality of meat that the animal should be perfectly healthy when slaughtered. How- ever slight the disease in an animal may be, inferiority in the quality of its flesh as food is certain to follow. In many cases, indeed, the flesh of diseased animals has a tendency to very rapid putre- faction, and becomes not only unwholesome, but absolutely poisonous to those who eat it. The Treatment of the Animal before it is Slaughtered is another circum- stance which greatly affects the quality of meat, and has an important influence on its value and wholesomeness. This will be readily under- stood if we consider the laws in accordance with which the life of an animal is supported and maintained. These are the digestion of its food and the assimilation of that food into its substance. Nature in effecting this process, first reduces the food in the stomach to a state of pulp, under the name of chyme, which passes into the intestines and is there divided into two principles, each distinct from the other. One, a milk-white fluid — the nutritive portion — is absorbed by th( innumerable vessels which open upon the mucous membrane, or inne SOUPS 131 coat of the intestines. These vessels, or absorbents, discharge the fluid into a common duct, or road, along which it is conveyed to the blood, thus supplying it with materials whereby the various tissues are nourished. The blood having circulated through all parts, and having had its waste repaired by the digested food, is now received into the heart, and by the action of that organ it is urged through the lungs, there to receive its purification from the air which the animal inhales. Again returning to the heart, it is forced through the arteries, and thence distributed by the innumerable ramifi- cations of the minute blood-vessels, called capillaries, to every part of the animal, imparting life and nutriment. The other principle — the innutritive portion — passes from the intestines out of the system. It will now be clearly seen how flesh is injuriously affected if an animal is slaughtered when the circulation of its blood has been increased by over-driving, ill-usage or any other cause of excitement, to such a degree that the capillaries cannot perform their functions properly, thus ing the blood to be congealed in its minuter vessels. Where this has been the case, the meat will be dark-coloured and become rapidly putrid, so that self-interest and humanity alike dictate kind and gentle treatment of all animals destined to serve as food for man. THE CHEMISTRY AND ECONOMY OF SOUP MAKING. The Basis of all Meat Soups. — Stock forms the basis of all ir ind of the principal sauces ; but except the rich clear stock us> :onsomme (or clear soup), it is not necessarily made from fresh In making brown stock from the shin of beef, white stock from he knuckle of veal, or ordinary stock from the bones and the trimmings f meat, poultry, etc., the methods employed for completely extracting rom the materials all their nutriment and flavour are the same : the esult depends upon the quality and kind of material employed, and hie length of time the simmering is continued. Five or six hours will xtract from the materials all that is necessary and desirable for stock ntendcd for clear soup ; but many more hours of gentle simmering will >e necessary to draw from the bones all the goodness they contain. In Franco, and indeed throughout the Continent generally, a stock-pot v-ill be found in every peasant's kitchen. By its means, the ba i delicious meal can be provided from materials that would be as ted in the average middle class household in Britain. The component parts of meat are : albumin, myosin (contained in 11 muscle fibres \ fibrin, gelatin, fat, alkaline salts and certain <-x- actives known as osmasome, which give to flesh its characteristic :Me flavour. 1 32 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT Albumin. — Albuir^n is the most valuable nutritive substance con- tained in meat ; it and its allied substance myosin are soluble in cold water, but coagulate or harden almost immediately they come in contact with boiling water, or with water a few degrees below boiling point ; and it is the knowledge of these important facts which enables us to retain the juices in the meat in roasting and boiling, and extract all the goodness from it in making soup. The chemistry of this will be easily understood by minutely examining the thread-like fragments of meat that have been subjected to a long process of boiling. In the raw condition each separate fibre was intermixed with and surrounded by albumin, myosin, etc. In making stock, the meat is cut up into rather small pieces in order to expose a larger surface to the action of the water. If put into cold water and allowed to stand for some time the soluble substances, albumin, myosin, osmasome and salts are ex- tracted. The salts and extractives (certain nitrogenous crystalline bodies) being readily soluble are dissolved at once, the albumin and myosin dissolve slowly and the gelatin becomes softened. When heat is applied its first gentle effect is to hasten the dissolving and softening processes, but as it approaches boiling point the albumin and myosin coagulate and appear as brown particles on the surface of the stock. The connective tissue which surrounds and binds the thread-like fibres together dissolves under the influence of heat, and yields gelatin to the stock. Should the mistake of putting the meat into boiling water be made the albumin on the surface of each piece of meat would immedi- ately harden and imprison the juices of the meat, and thus protect them and the fibres from the softening and dissolving influence of the water. Consequently the stock would be thin and poor. Gelatin. — The best stock and the best beef tea are not necessarily those which, when cold, form a jelly. The properties to which beef tea owes its valuable stimulating power are not derived from gelatin, but from the juices of the meat ; of which juices more can be extracted from a beef-steak cut from a recently-killed animal, than from one that has been hung for some time, and yet obtained in a much larger pro- portion from ANY KIND of beef-steak than from the highly gelatinous shin of beef. Juicy beef produces well-flavoured, stimulating beet tea, but such a liquid, strained of its floating particles of coagulated albumin, has no value as a food, and notwithstanding its rich flavour of meat would be regarded as too thin and watery to form the basis of a good consomme, which must combine both flavour and substance. Th< i« fore, in making stock, the extraction of the juices of meat by the process already indicated, should be followed by a long, slow simmering to soften and dissolve the connective tissue, tendons, etc., which yield a more transparent gelatin than that extracted from bones. Gelatin not only gives substance to the stock, but also makes it more nourishing, if that point need be considered in a liquid forming the basis of a con- SOUPS 133 somme generally used as a prelude to a dinner in which meat and poultry play an important part. Gelatin in this form is more useful to those who cannot eat much meat or other albuminoid food, as the nitrogen of the gelatin replaces the nitrogen of albumin, in the form- ation of many digestive and other secretions of the body, if not in its constructive processes. Extractives. — It is to the changes the extractives undergo during the process of cooking that meat owes much of its flavour, particularly the outside of roast meat. The flesh of old animals contains more of these substances than that of young ones ; brown meats contain more than white, and consequently give a richer, if a less delicate, flavour to the stock. CLASSIFICATION OF SOUPS. Although there are between five and six hundred different kinds of soup, they can be broadly divided into a few distinct classes, namely, broths, clear soups, thick soups and pur6es ; each group may be divided and sub-divided, but it will be more convenient to consider them under this simple classification. Broths. — The unclarified liquor in which chicken, veal, beef, mutton, rabbit or sheep's head is cooked are included in this class. Tlu-y arc frequently garnished with pearl-barley or rice, but they are not thickened. Clear Soups. — The basis of good clear soups is double stock, that is, a good beef stock which has been strengthened with veal to give it gelatinous substance, and with fowl to improve the flavour. The clear soups include all those which are transparent in appearance, varying in colour from amber to nut-brown. Additions may be made to them as a garniture or decoration, from which they take their distinctive name. Some of the garnitures and flavouring in common use are : vegetables; "shaped," i.e. cut into various shapes or devices; dice, or small cubes of cooked game, chicken, meat and fish ; quenelles of meat, fish and chicken ; finely shredded vegetables ; various farinaceous preparations as Italian paste, semolina, rice, sago and batters. Thick Soups. — The basis of soups of this class may be stock of any kind, white, brown, fish or vegetable, according to the soup required, or a mixture of white stock and milk for such soups as Potage a la Royal and Potage a la Bonne Femme ; or all milk, or milk and water for such plain thick soups as cabbage and vegetable soups. Soups of this class are frequently garnished as well as being thickened ; the well- known ox-tail and mock turtle soups may be given as examples. Thick soups owe their thickening to the addition of arrowroot, cornflour, rice-flour, flour, or some other farinaceous substance ; rich soups, such as " Bonne Femme," are thickened by a liaison or combination of i34 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT yolks of eggs and cream, while a good brown soup like " Ox Tail " would be thickened with butter and flour, previously either cooked or well kneaded together. In making hare soup the blood of the animal is frequently used : it should be strained into the soup a few minutes before serving. Thick soups should have the same consistency as good single cream, i.e. cream obtained from milk that has stood 12 hours. Purges. — This class of soups differs from other thick soups in being thickened by the ingredients of which they are made, such as Bisque of Lobster, purees of peas, beans and lentils ; in all cases the sub- stances comprising the soup are rubbed through a sieve and served in the soup. Croutons of bread are usually used with purees. PUR£E, Fr. — A smooth pulp, thick soup, mashed vegetables. Meat or fish that has been cooked, pounded in a mortar, and passed through a sieve is also called a puree. Vegetarian Soups. — A soup made of milk and cabbage, lettuce or mixed vegetables, may not please the English palate so well as the more expensive consomme, but it contains as much nourishment, and if in itself it had no food value whatever it would still be a useful addition to a meal of cold meat. A few words will explain this. Food serves the twofold purpose of maintaining the heat of the body and of sup- plying force or strength. A want of food produces not only a sense of hunger, but also a sensation of cold. If a meal of cold meat be taken, a part of the latent heat contained in it will be spent in raising the temperature of the food to that of the body, consequently less food will be available for the production of heat and energy. Some hot soup taken at the commencement of the meal would not only have strengthened the stomach and made it better able to receive the sub- stantial food to follow, but it would by its own heat have quickly raised the temperature of the food it became mixed with. Soups made from peas, beans and lentils, being very rich in carbo-hydrates, contain so much nourishment that they ought to be eaten in the place of meat instead of with it : every economical housewife should know the value of these soups. Mattieu Williams, speaking of vegetable soups, says : " I must add a few words in advocacy of the further adoption in this country of the French practice of using as POTAGE the water in which vegetables generally (excepting potatoes) have been boiled. When we boil cabbages, turnips, carrots, etc., we dissolve out of them a very large proportion of their saline constituents ; salts which are absolutely necessary for the maintenance of health ; salts without which we be- come victims of gout, rheumatism, lumbago and gravel." Flavourings for Soups. — The following list of flavourings simply enu- merates those most commonly used and conveniently obtained : tur- nips, carrots, onions, celery, parsley, thyme, bay-leaf (parsley, thyme and bay-leaf are usually tied together and spoken of as a " bouquet- garni"), tarragon, chervil, tomatoes, celery seeds, cloves, wine, vinegars of various kinds, and lemon juice. SOUPS 135 Seasoning for Soups. — In addition to salt and pepper, which form the ordinary seasonings for soups, and which must be added with caution, nutmeg, allspice, mace, sugar and cinnamon are used, but in all cases judgment and discretion must be exercised, as an overdose of any one of the above ingredients may spoil the best soup. The exact quantity of liquid needed in making soup cannot, speaking generally, be given, so much depends on the rate of cooking, and whether the lid of the saucepan is kept on to prevent waste by evapora- tion. If the liquid becomes greatly reduced by rapid boiling but has been closely covered, the contents of the saucepan have merely become concentrated in strength and flavour, and water may be added to make up the original quantity. Should the liquid, by being allowed to boil in an uncovered saucepan, have wasted its strength and flavour, sufficient stock, milk, or whatever formed the basis of the soup, must be added to make up the original STRENGTH and quantity. The inexperienced cook should take this lesson to heart — Cooking cannot be Hastened. If the preparations for dinner have been somewhat delayed nothing is gained by placing the saucepan containing the soup, stew, or meat on the top of a fierce fire. When once the SLOW-BOILING or simmering point has been reached all excess of heat is wasted, and the BENEFIT of slow progressive cooking is lost. STOCK. The following information and directions will be found useful in the making of stock. 1. Beef makes the best brown stock, but it lacks gelatinous substance ; therefore stock for good consomme, or clear soup, should be made of beef and veal, and a fowl, or part of a fowl added to give it an additional flavour. 2. White stock is usually made from veal, bones and remains of poultry and calves' feet. The liquor in which calves' head or fowls has been boiled makes excellent white stock. 3. Stock meat should be as lean and as fresh as possible.