Class _r'7>4^ Book.i.Hi4^U_ Gop}Tight N" _ COFl'KIGHT DEPOSrr. T II E History ot Melrose, (lounty of 21IibMc5Cx, IHassact^usctts, BY ELBRIDGE HENRY GOSS, I'UnMSHKD 1?Y THE CITY OF MKLROSK 1902. THE LIBRARY OF CONGRESS, Two Copies R«c«iv«<l MAY 5 190? ^ Cepyiight EnVry CUSS Ou XXc No. COPY B. Copyright, igoj By Elbridge Henry Goss. MELROSK, Mass. : A. W. DuNTON & Co., rrinters. to PREFACE. MORE or less had been written about the History of Mel- rose, before this work was undertaken. The Town's action in the Civil War I had recorded in The Melrose Memorial: The Annals of Melrose, in the Great Rebellion of l86l-6^, published in 1868; a short history of the town pre- pared for Samuel Adams Drake's History of Middlesex County, in 1880; and another for J. W. Lewis & Co.'s History of Middle- sex Connty, in 1890. Notwithstanding this, there came to exist a desire on the part of many citizens, that a more thorough and complete history of our municipality be written. Possibly this wish was stimulated by the near approach of the time when Melrose would become a city, and, of the completion of the first half century since it was incorporated, May 3, 1850. But, be it remembered, the history of our territory reaches back over two and a half centuries. Early in the year 1898, in accordance with this often expressed wish, Franklin P. Shumway obtained the following names to a petition, requesting that the History of Melrose be written: Franklin P. Shumway. Allen C. Goss. Charles H. Adams. Charles A. Patch. Mary A. Livermore. Harry W. Sawyer. Moses S. Page. Henry M. Sylvester. Levi S. Gould. Joel C. Page. Sidney H. Buttrick. George L. Morse. William E. Barrett. Henry A. Leonard. Frank W. Hunt. Fernando C. Taylor. Royal P. Barry. Daniel Norton. Leonard S. Leighton. B. Marvin Fernald. Harry A. Batchelder. Alonzo G. Whitman. John Larrabee. Rev. Daniel P. Livermore. Wingate P. Sargent. Rev.Thomas Sims, D. D. Daniel Russell. Rev. Burke F. Leavitt. vi PREFACE. Oliver A. Roberts. Rev. Clifton Fletcher. John W. Farwell. Rev. Joseph K.Wilson, John O. Norris. Rev. George N. Howard, L. Frank Hinckley. Alonzo V. Lynde. Benjamin F. Robinson. Charles H. Isburgh. George E. Munroe. Nathan D. Blake. Jesse A. Dill. Dr. Julius S. Clark. Norman F. Hesseltine. Dr. Ernest S. Jack. Curtis C. Goss. Albert B. Franklin. Francis S. Hesseltine. Alonzo A. Knights. Charles C. Barry. Frank L. Washburn. John Buffum. Royal B. Leighton. Seth E. Benson. George L. Wildes. George C. Stantial. The next action was taken at a Town Meeting, held April 4^ 1898, when Mr. Shumway offered a vote which is embodied in the following letter: Town Clerk's Office. Melrose, Mass., Apr. 21, 1898. Elbridge H. Goss, Esq. Dear Sir: — At the Annual Town Meeting you were unanimously invited to write a history of the Town of Melrose, under the following vote : That the Town invite, and authorize Mr. Elbridge H. Goss to write an illustrated history of the Town of Melrose. That the Town grant him full access to, and the privilege of copying or reproducing any records, maps, illustrations, &c., from the Town records and files, that he may desire, on the condition that he shall not receive any compen- sation from the Town for his services. Respectfully yours. Attest: W. DeHaven Jones, Town Clerk, pro tern. The task thus imposed upon me, in such a complimentary manner, by both town and citizens, became a command ; and, although undertaken with some hesitancy, has proven to be a pleasant work; and I have executed it to the best of my ability. It is now submitted to my fellow-citizens with the hope that the record is one which they may peruse with some degree of pleasure and satisfaction. For very many items concerning the early history of the town of which the "North End" or "North Maiden" was PREFACE. Vll quite an important part, I am indebted to that very excellent History of Maiden, recently issued, by Deloraine P. Corey; a most thorough, exact and pains-taking historian; one who is full of antiquarian zeal, who possesses a masterly knowledge of the local affairs of his native town, and, withal, who controls the '• pen of a ready-writer." For these reasons the citizens of Maiden are in possession of a work of superior value; one they may well take pride in. I wish to acknowledge my indebtedness to the papers and memoranda left by the late Artemas Barrett; although in a somewhat disconnected and unsatisfactory state, still I never could have written what I have about the original families that occupied this territory without the aid thus rendered. Other citizens have aided with documents, facts communicated, and old papers; among them Hon. Levi S. Gould, George A. Fuller, Maurice G. Cochrane, Edwin C. Gould and the late D. Alvin Lynde. For the photographs for the half-tone illustrations, I am indebted to several of my fellow citizens; among them, Dr. John Dike, Walter C. Stevens, Walter L. Wedger, Dexter Pratt, Rev. Edwin C. Bolles, D. D., Henry Lynde, Hon. Levi S. Gould, William R, Lavender, Archie B. Mcllwraith, William L. Kirmes and William L. Kershaw; and to Charles H.Adams for the use of a number of plates from Melrose: Town and City . For kindly aid I am also indebted to our City Clerk, W. De Haven Jones, and his assistant, Victor C. Kirmes; and to many of the officers of our various institutions my ackowl- edgements are due. The history having been written the next thing to be done was its publication. A committee of the Board of Aldermen, consisting of Oliver B. Munroe, William A. Carrie and Edward S. Page, having been appointed to consider the] matter, made its report June 9, 1902, which was accepted and adopted. It embodied the following vote: Be it ordered, That the sum of fifteen hundred dollars is hereby appropriated for the printing, publication and sale, under the direction of the Trustees of the Public Library, of one thousand copies of a History of Melrose, compiled b}- Elbridge H. Goss; that the aforesaid amount so appropriated is for a temporary loan and in anticipation of the taxes of the municipal year of the city of Melrose, commencing January i, 1902, and is expressly payable therefrom; that the treasurer viii PREFACE. is authorized and directed to borrow the sum of fifteen hundred dollars for the purpose aforesaid and make and deliver therefor a note or notes of the city of Melrose payable in not exceeding one year from the date thereof at a rate of interest not exceeding four per cent. ; and that all moneys received from the sale of said work, after the payment to the city of whatever sum of money may be expended in the publi- cation of this work, and the payment of a reasonable selling commis- sion, shall be used by said Trustees for the purchase of books for the Public Library. In accordance with this vote the Trustees of the Public Library made a contract with the house of A. W. Dunton & Co. for the printing and publication of the work, which was dated June 30, 1902; to which date this History, as regards our local institutions has been completed. Melrose is the youngest city in the Commonwealth of Massa- chusetts. From a small, sparsely settled town, it has grown, during its little more ^than a half century, to be an influential city of more than thirteen thousand inhabitants. Its history as a municipality has been eminently patriotic, noble and prosperous. Honesty and integrity have characterized its citizens. Its religious and educational interests are well established and liberally sustained. May the coming years be, by God's good guidance, equally blessed with peace, happiness and prosperity. Elbridge H. Goss. Melrose, June 30, 1902. CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. Early Exploration. Pagb Captain John Smith's voyage of 1614 — His description of New England — Visits of other navigators — The Northmen — Myles Standish — New England grants — Inland exploration — Our territory visited — The Spragues — Description by Gov. Win- throp, Rev. Francis Higginson, Thomas Morton, and others — Home of Nanepashemit and other Indians i CHAPTER II. Territory. Charlestown subdivided — Territory deeded by Squaw Sachem and Webcowet — Mystic Side incorporated as Maiden ^ — The Commons divided — Greenwood set ofif to Reading, the High- lands to Stoneham — Melrose incorporated — Its territory — Summits — Cascades — Ponds — Villages — Railroads — Our names — Deprivations of early settlers 10 CHAPTER III. Roads, Streets and Highways. First road, Winnesemett to Reading — Petition of Thomas Lynde for change of location — Tufts 1795 map — Roads laid out — Streets — Sidewalks — Picture of in former days . . .41 CHAPTER IV. Old Families and Homesteads. The Lyndes — Spragues — Greens — Barretts — Uphams — How- ards— Vintons — Emersons — Boardmans — Hemenway . . 58 X CONTENTS. CHAPTER V. Ecclesiastical History. Page The First Methodist Episcopal Church — Orthodox Congrega- tional Church — Highlands Congregational Church — First Baptist Church — Fells Baptist Church — Highlands Baptist Church — First Free Baptist Church — First Universalist Church — Trinity Episcopal Church — Unitarian Congregational Soci- ety— Liberal Christian Union Church — ^ Saint Mary of the Annunciation Church — ^ Old-time Church Going . . .136 CHAPTER VI. Educational History. Early Maiden Schoolmasters — First School — Nathaniel Jenkins, Jr. — First Schoolhouse — Robert Gerry — Old High School — Franklin — Whittier — Converse —Ripley — Lincoln — Wash- ington — New High School — Dedication — Maker Tablet — School Committees 185 CHAPTER VII. Military History. Wars — French and Indian — King Philip's — King William's — Drafting — The Revolution — Maiden's patriotic Resolutions and Instructions — The Lexington Alanii — Rolls of Minute- Men Companies — Service of North Maiden men — The Civil War, The Great Rebellion of 1861-5 — Town Action — First enlistments — Rallying Committee — Recruiting Committees — Drafts — War subscriptions — Number of men furnished — Suiplus — Relief of soldiers and their families — Various con- tributions— Roll of soldiers and sailors — Minute-men medals — Battery C. — Spanish- American War — Army enlistments — • ' Navy enlistments — Army Christian Commission — Y. M. C. A. Army Christian Commission 206 CHAPTER Vlfl. Military Organizations. U. S. Grant Post 4, G. A. R. — Letter of U. S. Grant — Memorial services — Veteran bounty bill — Woman's Relief Corps No. 16 — William Francis Barry Camp No. 79, Sons of Veterans — Ladies' Aid Society, No. 23 — Soldiers' memorials — Soldiers' monument . . . . . . . . . . -254 CONTENTS. xi CHAPTER IX. First and Last Town Meeting. Page First meeting May 6, 1850^ Town officers — Salaries — Town meetings — Last meeting Nov. 9, 1899 — Final action . . 264 CHAPTER X. City of Melrose. Action contemplating change from town to city — Legislative action — -Charter granted — First election — Officers elected — Second and third elections — Officers elected — License Question 268 CHAPTER XL Town and City Officers. Provisions of city charter — Town moderators — Gould testimo- nials— List of selectmen — Town and city clerks— Treasurers — Collectors — Auditors — -Town and City counsel — Sinking fund commissioners — Registrars of voters — Members of Congress — Senators — Representatives- — Other officers . . . .277 CHAPTER XIL Spot Pond Water Works. Spot Pond Water Company franchise — Commissioners — Contract for works — List of water bonds — Sinking fund — Franchise damages — High service system — Metropolitan water system — Town action — Settlement correspondence 290 CHAPTER Xin. Sewerage. Metropolitan sewerage system act — Town action — Sewer com- missioners — Sewer bonds — Table of sewers built — Cost ap- portionment — ■ Cost of sewer system — Miles constructed — Sinking fund — Annual payments 3°' xii CONTENTS. CHAPTER XIV. Drainage and Health. Page The Dyer dam trouble — Town action — Legislative action, 1 869 — County commissioners' hearings — No damages awarded — Spot and Ell pond brooks widened and deepened — Further town action — Correspondence — Legislative action invoked — Surface drainage system instituted — Board of Health estab- lished— Members — Good health of Melrose . . . .307 CHAPTER XV. Parks and Boulevards. Home Association lands— The Melrose Common — Park com- missioners elected — Barry Park — Sewall Woods Park — Ell Pond Park — New boulevard proposed — Park properties — Middlesex Fells 3^8 CHAPTER XVI. Cemeteries. The Village Burial Ground — Wyoming Cemetery — Pratt Farm — Cemetery trust funds — Jewish Cemetery .... 328 CHAPTER XVII. Young Men's Christian Association. The first association — Present one organized — Y. M. C. A. Building — Woman's AuxiUary — Fairs 33^ CHAPTER XVIII. The Melrose Hospital Association. Organization and Ofificers— Fairs — Hospital Sundays — Hospi- tal Guild — Hospital Home — Nurses' Home . . .341 CHAPTER XIX. Public Lihrary. When and how founded — Franklin Fraternity Gift— Trustees- Donations — Bequests — The Carnegie Gift— Site chosen for new library 2)y> CONTENTS. xiii CHAPTKR XX. LlTKRARY AND MUSICAL ASSOCIATIONS. Page The Franklin Fraternity— Shakespeare Club — Woman's Club- Highlands Woman's Club — Education Society — Roundabout Club — Unit}^ Club — Centennial Club — Avon Club — Melrose Lyceum — Amphion Club — Choral societies — Bands — Orches- tras—Geraldine Farrar — Walter Emerson . . . -355 CHAPTER XXI. Bibliography. Adams — Austin — Babson — Burnham — Dorchester — Drake — Eddy — Gooch — Hey wood — Kidder — Leigh ton — Livermore — Lockwood — Nash — Noyes — Peck — Pool — Roberts — Sewall — Torrey — Wright — Gould — Melrose Bibliography . 367 CHAPTER XXH. Newspapers. The Melrose Advertiser — Melrose Journal — Melrose Reporter — Free Press — Enterprise 3^3 CHAPTER XXHL Fire and Police Departments. 388. The Old Endeavor Engine— The Grundy Hose Co. — N. D. Blake Hose Co. — Gamewell alarm system — Central Fire Station- Steam fire engine — Hose companies — Police officers — Police association CHAPTER XXIV. City Hall, Clocks and Seals. Cost of hall— Dedication — Flagg Staff — First, second and third town clocks — Water Bond seal — Town seals — City seal . 394 CHAPTER XXV. Various Institutions. Melrose Savings Bank — Melrose National Bank— Melrose Co- operative Bank — Post Offices — Street railroads — lelegraph — Telephone — Street lights — Electric light plant — Pounds — Field drivers — Fence viewers— Stone crushers — Drinking fountains "* xiv CONTENTS. CHAPTER XXVI. Charitable and Improvement Associations. Page Melrose Charitable Association — Board of Associated Charities — Melrose Improvement Society — Highlands Improvement Association 411 CHAPTER XXVII. Anniversaries. The 50th Anniversary — looth Anniversary — Maiden's 250th An- niversary — Old Home week — Dedication soldiers' monument .415 CHAPTER XXVIII. Temperance Matters. Early action — Siloam Temple of Honor — Siloam Social Temple — Woman's Christian Temperance Union — St. Mary's Catho- lic Total Abstinence Society — Early votes of Maiden . . 425 CHAPTER XXIX. Societies — Associations — Clubs. Freemasons — Odd Fellows — Daughters of Rebekah — Athletic Club — Melrose Club — Highland Club — The Stone Fort — Bellevue Golf Club — Daughters of the American Revolution — Daughters of the Revolution — Sons and Daughters of Maine — Amateur Gardeners' Society — Boys' Brigade — Fraternal and benevolent societies . 431 CHAPTER XXX. Political. Australian ballot — Precincts and wards — Parties — Union League — Municipal League — Public Franchise League . . . 446 CHAPTER XXXI. Miscellaneous. Widening of Main Street — List of signers — Eleanor Brown Toothaker Fund — -Memorial services- — The Stars and Stripes — Curfew bell — " 49ers " — Slavery — • Revolutionery incidents — The Maiden Beacon — Action concerning tea — Recruiting committee — Old customs — Addenda 450 APPENDIX. A. Act OF Incorporation 477 B. Report OF Adjustment Committee 478 C. Act to Annex part of Stoneham to Melrose . . 482 ILLUSTRATIONS. PORTRAIT OF THE AUTHOR, with autograph signature, Frontispiece. Page THE CASCADE. From plate in Metropolitan Park Commission- ers' Report of 1903, by permission, facing 26 SPOT POND BROOK CASCADE. From photograph by Archie B. Mcllwraith 27 THE GOULD HOMESTEAD, at Spot Pond. From sketch by Miss Hannah Lynde 34 SPOT POND — 1876. From photograph by E. C. Swain, facing . 34 SPOT POND — 1902. From Metropolitan Commissioners' Report, 35 PLAN OF MALDEN, by Peter Tufts, Jr., 1795. reduced. By per- mission of Deloraine P. Corey 5° ENSIGN THOMAS LYNDE HOMESTEAD— 1670. From pho- tograph by Dr. John Dike 61 BOSTON RUBBER SHOE COMPANY'S WORKS. From plate kindly furnished by the Company 67 VIEWS IN PINE BANKS PARK. From plate of the New England Magazine ^° OLD CORN, OR SAMP MILL. From photograph by Archie B. Mcllwraith ^9^ WARREN LYNDE HOMESTEAD. From photograph by Henry Lynde 72 JOSEPH LYNDE HOMESTEAD. From photograph by Walter C. Stevens 73 JOHN LYNDE HOMESTEAD. From photograph by Robert J. Chute 74 OLD JOHN GREEN HOMESTEAD. From daguerreotype, kind- ness Dexter Pratt 92 PLATTERS AND WINE GLASSES. From photograph by Rev. Edwin C. Bolles, D. D 93 PARLOR AND CORNER BUFFET. From photograph by Archie B. Mcllwraith, 97 OLD AMOS UPHAM HOUSE. From photograph by Dr. John T->-1 . . .Ill Dike INTERIOR OF AMOS UPHAM HOUSE. From photograph by Mrs. Addie K. Robinson, "3. X V i ILL US TRA TIONS. Page JESSE UPH AM HOUSE. From photograph by Dr. John Dike . 115 DOLLY UPHAM HOUSE. From photograph by William R. Lavender jjg OLD HOWARD HOUSE. From photograph by Robert J. Chute 119 PRATT FARM HOMESTEAD. From photograph by kindness of Sidney H. Buttrick j2i RICHARDSON HOUSE AND TOWER. From photograph by Walter L. Wedger jjs VIEW CORNER FRANKLIN AND GREENWOOD STREETS. From photograph by Walter L. Wedger 126 EZRA VINTON HOMESTEAD. From photograph, kindness of Miss Sarah A. Chever J27 INTERIOR OF EZRA VINTON HOUSE. From photograph by Mrs. Addie K. Robinson . . . . . , . .128 THE CLEFT BOULDER. From photograph by Archie B. Mc- Ilwraith j2q EZRA WAITE HOUSE. From plate, kindness of Frank A. Woodward j,2 THE EMERSON TAVERN. From drawing in possession of Charles P. Lynde j,, ABIJAH BOARDMAN HOUSE. From plate, kindness of Frank A. Woodward ........... i->c METHODIST EPISCOPAL CHURCH AND PARSONAGE. From plate, kindness of the M. E. Church 140 ORTHODOX CONGREGATIONAL CHURCH. From oil paint- ing by T. C. Bartholomew 146 ORTHODOX CONGREGATIONAL CHURCH. From photograph by A. Shepherdson j^g BIRTHPLACE OF CHURCH. From plate, kindness of Highlands Congregational Church jc6 HIGHLANDS CONGREGATIONAL CHURCH. From photo- graph by A. Shepherdson jcg FIRST BAPTIST CHURCH. From photograph by William L. Kirmes ............ 162 MELROSE HIGLANDS BAPTIST CHURCH. From photograph by A. Shepherdson igr MELROSE HIGHLANDS FIRST FREE BAPTIST CHURCH. From photograph by A. Shepherdson 167 FIRvST UNIVERSALIST CHURCH. From plate, kindness of Charles H. Adams ito TRINITY EPISCOPAL CHURCH. From photograph by William R. Lavender jy^ THE MELROSE ABBEY STONE. From photograph by Archie B. McUwraith l-g ILLUSTRATIONS. xvii Page UNITARIAN CONGREGATIONAL CHURCH. From plate, kind- ness of the Church . . 179 vST. MARY'S CATHOLIC CHURCH. From photograph by A. Shepherdson 182 THE JENKINS DESK. From photograph Ijy Archie B. McIIwraith 189 THE OLD SCHOOLHOUSE—ou 1053 road 190 THE OLD HIGH SCHOOLHOUSE. From photograph by Walter C. Stevens 192 FRANKLIN SCHOOLHOUSE. From plate by kindness of the School 195 WASHINGTON SCHOOLHOUSE. From photograph by A. Shepherdson ........... 196 LINCOLN SCHOOLHOUSE. From plate, kindness Charles H. Adams ............ 197 HIGH SCHOOLHOUSE. From photograph by A. Shepherdson 199 MEDAL OF THE MINUTEMEN OF 1801. From photograph by Archie B. McIIwraith 245 REAR ADMIRAL N. MAYO DYER. From plate, kindness of Charles H. Adams 249 DYER SWORD AND SCABBARD. From photograph by Mrs. Addie K. Robinson . 250 GRAND ARMY OF THE REPUBLIC BADGE. From plate, kindness of U. S. Grant Post 4 257 THE SOLDIERS' MONUMENT. From photograph by Archie B. McIIwraith 263 THE LAST BOARD OF SELECTMEN. From plate, kuulness of Charles H. Adams 266 THE CHARTER PEN. From photograph l)y A. Shepherdson . 270 HON. LEVI S. GOULD. From photograph by Elmer Chiikering, 272 HON. JOHN LARBABEE. From photograph by A. Shepherdson, 274 TOWN TESTIMONIALS TO HON. LEVI S. GOULD From photographs, kindness of Mr. Gould ...... 279 THE RAVINE ROAD. From photograph by Archie B. McIIwraith 324 THE V. M. C. A. BUILDING. From photograph by William L. Kershaw 337 MELROSE HOSPITAL. From plate, kindness of Charles H. Adams ........•••• 343 THE AMPHION CLUB. From photograph by Elmer Chickering, 364 HON. DANIEL W. GOOl H 37° MRS. MARY A. LIVERMORE 373 HON. SAMUEL E. SEWALL. From plates, kindness of Charles H. Adams 379 XVlll ILLUSTRA TIONS. OLD ENDEAVOR ENGINE. From a daguerreotype in possession of Fire Department 389' THE CENTRAL FIRE STATION. From photograph by A. Shepherdson 391 CITY HALL. From photograph by Archie B. Mclwraith . . 395 FIRST TOWN SEAL 399 SECOND TOWN SEAL 400 WATER BOND SEAL 401 CITY SEAL 401 THE SOUVENIR PLATE. From plate, kindness of Deloraine P. Corey 421 MASONIC TEMPLE 433 HOME OF THE MELROSE CLUB 436- HIGHLAND CLUB HOUSE. From plates, kindness of Charles H. Adams 437 THE STONE FORT. From photograph, kindness of Charles E. French 438 THE FIRST MALDEN PIANO 475 FACSIMILES. Original report of running Stoneham and Maiden bounds Vote concerning Division of the Commons. Assessors' Report for Melrose in 1849, reduced Petition of Ensign Thomas Lynde Receipt of Ensign Thomas Lynde's heirs Page from Rev. Joseph Emerson's Sermon Page of Melrose Advertiser, reduced 16 la 21 46 63 64 384 AUTOGRAPHS. William Bogle . Gov. John Winthrop Ensign Thomas Lyndt- Joseph Lynde . Joseph Lynde, son Col. Joseph Lynde Benjamin Lynde John Lynde William Sprague William McKinlev Page Page 36 Richard Sprague 80 43 John Sprague 88 61 John Upham 108 66 Lieut. Phineas Upham 109 66 Phineas Upham, son no 7' Thomas Vinton . 122 72 Nathaniel Jenkins, Jr. 189 73 Robert Gerry 191 . 79 Ulysses S. Grant 255 . 363 Last Board of Selectmen . 267 ESCUTCHEONS. Melrose Club Sons and Daughters of Maine 435 Knights of Columbus , . 444 442 Knights of Pythias , . 445 CHAPTER I. EARLY EXPLORATION. ONE of the many \0yas4es of the intrepid and heroic naviqator. Captain John Smith, was made in 1614, when he first \isited the New England coast. He sailed from London, in the month of April, with two ships and forty-five men. The object of the voyage was, "to take Whales, for which we had one Samuel Cramton, and diners others expert in that facultx', and also to make tryalls of a Myne of Gold and Copper; if those failed, Fish and Furs were then our refuge to make our selues sauers hovvsoeuer.'"^ Not meeting with much success, and finding "this Whale- fishing a costl)' conclusion," and filled with his usual spirit of exploration, he says: "Whilst the Sailors fished, myself with eight others of them that might best bee spared," ranged up and down the coasts of INIaine and Massachusetts, "in a small boat," \isiting the \arious harbors and rivers. During this time, he continues: "I was \-p one riuer fortie miles, crossed the mouths of many, whose heads are reported to be great Lakes." When he entered Boston Harbor, he says: "I tooke the fairest reach in this Hay for a ri\-er, whereupon I called it Charles Ri\er, the name of our Royall King Charles. "- How far inland, around the Charles, Mystic and Maiden Rivers, Captain .Smith penetrated is not known. He ma}' have visited our pleasant \alle\- and its surrounding hills, but he has made no record of such an event. Without doubt he traversed a goodly portion of the territory of Charlestown and Maiden, as three months were occupied in these travels and explora- tions. This is abundantly e\'idenced l)\- the enthusiastic ac- count of what he had discovered, and the minute description of the country and its productions, which he had seen, and ^ Smith, 77/1? General Historie ^ Sniitb, The True Travels, Ad- of New England, 1606-1624, Arber ventures, and Observations of Cap- Edition, 697. tain f oh n Smith, Arber Edition. 949. 2 HISTORY OF MELROSE. which he \\rote in i6i6, after his return to London; and also by the fact that he constructed a ma}:) of the region he then visited, which he presented to Charles I. In this Descript'uvi of New Eng/a)id, he sa>'s: And then the Countrie of Massachusetts, which is the Paradise of all those parts. For heere are many lies all planted with corne, groues, mulberries, saluage gardens, and good harbours. . . . And of all the foure parts of the world that 1 haue yet seene not inhabited, could I haue but means to transport a Colonic, I would rather hue here than anywhere : and if it did not maintaine it selfe, were wee but once indif- ferently well titted, let vs starue. . . . there is victuall to feede vs, wood of all sorts to build Boats, Ships, or Barks; the fish at our doores ; pitch, tarre, masts, yards, and most other necessaries onely for making? And here are no hard Landlords to racke vs with high rents, or extorted fines to consume us ; no tedious pleas in law to consume vs with their many years disputations for Listice ; no multitudes to occa- sion such impediments to good orders, as in popular States. So freely hath God and his Maiesty bestowed those blessings on them that will attempt to obtaine them, as here euery man may be master and owner of his owne labour and land: or the greatest part in a small time. If hee haue nothing but his hands, he may set \'p his trade : and by in- ' dustrie quickh- grow rich ; spending but halfe that time wel, which in England we abuse in idlenes. worse or as ill. Again he says: \\'e found the people in those parts \-er\- kinde. but in their fury no lesse valiant; for vpon a quarrell. we fought with forty or fifty of them, till they had spent all their Arrowes, and then we tooke six or seuen of their Canowes. which towards the euening they ran.somed for Beuer skinnes. Other naxigators had \isitccl our Massachusetts coast before this. In 1602, Bartholomew Gosnold came to Massachusetts Bay, entered Boston Harbor, and then landed on Cape Cod, which he named and explored. He afterwards made an at- tempt at a settlenu'Ut on Llizabeth Island, uow Cutt_\'hunk-, but it was soon abandoned. Martin Bring, another Lnglish navigator, \-isited the New I^ngland coast in 1603, exphu-ing man}' of its ri\ers and iidets. There is exidence that he N'isited the region of Plymouth, but none I hat he enti-red Boston Harbor. He landed on, and named the group of islands Martin's Vine^'ard, afterwards ccM'rupted to Martha's \'ine\-ard. EA RL Y EX PL OR A TION. 3 After Priiig's visit Samuel cic Chanijjlain cntcrecl Boston Harbor, in 1605, and anchored on the westerly side of Noddle's Island, now East Boston. He saw and entered Charles River, which he called Ri\er dii Guast. As this expedition was so short a time in the harbor, probably no inland exploration was undertaken, but the sliores and islands of the harbor were visited. Still other navigators and explorers had been to our New England shores, landing on the islands, and travelling over the country surrounding Boston Harbor and Massachusetts Bav. The first explorers of our continent were the Northmen. Leif Eriksen, in the \ear lOOO, was the first European to travel the great mainland southwest of Greenland, and the first to ex- plore the territory of Massachusetts, which he called \'inland. The beautiful statue of this Northman, by Anne Whitney, on Commonwealth Avenue, Boston, commemorates the discover\- of the continent of America by this hardy race of explorers. And within a few years there has been tliscovered on the banks of the Charles Ri\er, what has been claimed to be "the site of Fort Norumbega, occupied for a time by the Bretons, some four hundred years ago, and as many years earlier still built and occupied as the seat of extensi\e fisheries, and a settle- ment by the Northmen." •"■ Massachusetts Bay had been \isited by other explorers be- sides those already named, and pre\'ious to the }-ear 1600; among them Gilbert, Raleigh, and \'errazano; the latter as early as 1524. From the topographical descriptions contained in a letter from X'errazano, dated July, 1524, it is seen that he sailed along the coast from North Carolina to the Penobscot Ri\er, in Maine, \'isiting many of the inter\ening harbors, and exploring the adjoining territorw* And in the year 1542, the French explorer, jean AUfonsce de Saintonge, was the first to explore in detail the shores of '^ Horsford, T/u- Discovery of the May [1524], passed to the south of Ancient City of Nontmbci^a. Pub- Martha's Vineyard aud Nantucket, lished iu 1890. with numerous il- which he mistook for portions of lustrations. the mainland, rounded Cape Cod, and went ashore probalily sonie- ^ " From this harbour of refuj^e where between Nahant and Cape [Narragansett Bay] the worthy Ann." l-'iske, The Dutch and Florentine set sail on the sixth of Ono/cer Co/onirs in .linrririi \. h^-6. 4 HISTORY OF MELROSE. Massachusetts Bay; then visiting the islands in Boston Harbor, and the adjoining territory. But the more important explorations of the territory around Boston Harbor were made after 1600. After Gosnold, Pring, Champlain and Smith, came the Pilgrims who landed at Pl}'mouth in 1620. In September, 1621, ten men, under the leadership of Captain Myles Standish, with Tisquantum, or Squanto, and two other Indians, left Plymouth on a voyage of discovery. They were gone four days. They landed, evidently, on the Maiden shore of the Mystic Ri\er, and travelled up through Medford: On the morrow we went ashore, all but two men, and marched in Amies vp in the Countrey. Hauing gone three myles, we came to a place where Corne had been gathered, a house pulled downe, and the people gone. 5 They went as far as the residence of the former Chief Nanepashemet, parleyed and bartered with some Indians and returned to Plymouth, reporting the result of their observa- tions. Many other exploring expeditions were made by those' who followed the Pilgrims to our shores. These were engendered by the different grants made in England about this time. The territory of which Melrose forms a part, was granted to Robert Gorges bv "The Council established at Plymouth, in the County of Devon, for the planting, ruling, ordering, and go\-erning of New England in America," of which the P^arl of Warwick and Sir Ferdinando Gorges, father of Robert, were the most prominent members. This Council claimed authority "over the region extending from Delaware Ba}- to Newfoundland and westward over un- known countries to the great South Sea." This grant to Robert Gorges con\-eyed all that part of the mainland commonly called Messachusiac. on the north-east side of the Bay known by the name of Massachuset, to- gether with all the shores along the sea for ten English miles in a strait line towards the north-east, and thirty miles into the mainland through all the breadth aforesaid. ^ Henry Martyu Dexter's editiou pany and wrote the account of this of MourVs Relation, or Journal of expedition, above quoted, in his the Plantation at Plymouth, 127. A Relation of Ovr Voyage to the Edward Winslow was of the com- Massachvsetts. EA RL Y EX PL OR A TION. 5 Soon after Robert .^ranted to .j(thn ( )l(lham and John Dorrell all the lands \v"nn Mattachusetts Bay betweene Charles River and Abousett [Saugus] River, Containfi in lengt by a streight Ij-ne 5 myles vp the said Charles River into the maine land north west from the border of the s^ Bay including all Creekes and points by the way and 3 myles in length from the mouth of the foresaid river of Abousett V[y into the maine land \pon a streight lync S: \\": including all Creeks and points, and all the lajid in bredth and length betweene the fore- said Rivers, w''' all p'rogatives Ryall Mynes excepted. March 4, 1628-9, a royal charter was issued to the "Goxernor and Company of the Mattachusetts Bay in New En^dand. one bod\- politicjue and corporate in deed, fact, and name." Under the authority of the grant from the Council for New England, and while negotiations for the royal charter were in progress. John Endicott, a gentleman of Dorsetshire and one of the original grantees, sailed in the ship "Abigail," Ciauden. master, from the little harbor of Weymouth, with a small company, and arrived at Naumkeag. Sep- tember 6, 1628. Others had preceded him and were seated along the shore from Cape Ann to Scituate. Among these were Roger Conant. Peter Palfrey, John Balch and John Woodbury at Naumkeag. the Mavericks at Noddle's Island and \\'innisimmet, Thomas W'alford at Mishawum, David Thompson at Neponset or Thompson's Island, William Blackstone at Shawmut, and John Bursley and William Jeffrey at \\'essaguset. Some of these had been followers of Robert Gorges and had scattered in fa\"orable trading places around the Bay ; others were single adventurers or perhaps agents for those who claimed lands by former grants. Besides these "the mad Bacchanalian." Thomas Morton, was still at Merry-Mount, and a gathering of fishermen and traders had become a permanent settlement at Nantasket.'' The next year man\- other settlers came to Salem, amoni( them Ralph, Richard and W illiam Sprague, sons of Edward Sprague of Upwa}-, in Dorsetshire. Soon after arri\•in.i,^ these brothers, with several others, with the approbation of Goxernor Endicott, went on an exploriiiLj- expedition, in a westerly direction, traversing- the inter\-enin<^ territory between Salem and Charlestown; thus jjassing through and examining on the way, portions of Lynn, Saugus, Melrose, INIalden and Medtord; fording three rixers, Saugus, Maiden and Mystic, liefore reach- ing their destination, Mishawam, now Charlest(n\n. Ri'turning ^ Corey, Hislory of ISIaldcii, 18, 19. 6 HISTORY OF MELROSE. the Sprague brothers remained in Salem but a short time; for they soon after retraced their steps and settled in Charlestown, and were among those referred to in a letter written in 1629, by Rev. Francis Higginson.' * There are in all of vs both old and new planters about three hundred, whereof two hundred of them are settled in Neihumkek, now called Salem : and the rest have planted themselves at Masathulets Ba}', beginning to build a towne there which wee doe call Cherton, or Charles Towne. "^ As soon as Gow John Winthrop arri\'ed at Salem, June 12, 1630, other explorations into the interior began. Five days later, he says in his Jcnniial : We went to Mattachusetts to find out a place for our sitting down. We went up Mistick River about six miles. After a few days more of observation, he writes to his son John, in England, under date of Charlton, Jul}^ 23, 1630. For the country itself I can discern little difference between it and our own. \\'e have had only two days, which I have observed more hot than in England. Here is as good land as I have seen there, but none so bad as there. Here is sweet air, fair rivers, and plenty of springs, and water better than in England. Here can be no want of anything to those who bring means to raise out of the earth and sea.-' Higginson seemed as well pleased with the air as was Winthrop, as is evidenced by the oft-used quotation from his New Engiaiicfs Plantation, "A sup of New England's aire is better than a whole draught of Old England's ale." Other enthusiastic commendations were written to the home friends in England, by Hutchinson, Graves and others. Hig- ginson states that in one place might be seen "thousands of acres of ground as good as need to be and not a tree in the same." The general appearance of the country was not entirely that of " an uncouth wilderness;" for a pleasant feature which struck the early ' Further details concerning the "* Hit;ginsou, in Forceps Tracts, Spragues and their history are vol. i. given in the chapter, "Old Fanii- '' Winthrop, Life and Letters of lies and Homesteads. " Jolm Wiiitfn op, ii. 43. EARLY EXPLORATION. 7 comers was the extended and frecjuent areas of open lands around the margins of the marshes and meadows and upon the phiins. — lands ready for the plough and tillage without much labor.'" Thomas Graves wrote home to I^ni^land: It is very heautifull in open lands, mixed with goodly woods, and again open plaines, in some places five hundred acres, some places more, some lesse, not so much troublesome for to cleere for the plough to goe in. no place barren, but on the tops of the hils: the grasse and weedes grow up to a man's face, in the lowlands and bv fresh rivers aboundance of grasse and large meddowes without any tree or shrubbe to hinder the sith." These open lands were accounted ffir l)\- Thomos Morton as follows: The Salvages are accustomed to set fire of the C'ountrv in all places where they come, and to burne it twize a yeare, viz : at the Spring, and the fall of the leafe. The reason that mooves them to doe so, is be- cause it would other wise be so overgrowne with underweedes that it would be all a coppice wood, and the people would not be able in any wise to passe through the Country out of a beaten path. And this custome of firing the Country is the meanes to make it passable : and by that meanes the trees growe here and there as in our parks: and makes the Country very beautifull and commodious. '- There were many other descriptions of our New Hngland territory sent home to England by these earl\' achenturers, some of which seem to us of today somewhat oxerdrawn and too enthusiastic; but none of these writers were so thorough and enthusiastic as was William Wood, who, after his return to England in 1634, gives a complete and detailed history of this whole territory. His work was entitled, ''New Englamis Pros- pect. A true, lively, and experhnentall description of that part of America, coiiintonly called Neiv England: discovering the state of that Countrie, both as it stands to onr neiv-co)ne English Planters; and to the old Native Inhabitants. Laying doivne that which may both enrich the knoivledge of the mind-travelling Reader, or benefit the future Voyager. ' ' The Hon. E. Moody Boyiiton pidDJished an exact reprotluc- tion of this book in 1898, and in h;s introduction he says: ^^' Corey, History of Maiden, 21. '-' Morton, Xcic Em^lis/i Canuan, " jl/assac/iKsetts, Historical Col- 52, 54. lections, i. 124. 8 HISTORY OF MELROSE. This book, righth' entitled T/ie Prospects of Neiv England, contains the first description of the prospects, surroundings, settlements and territor}' of the Massachusetts Ba}^ Colony at the period when its principal towns and cities were located. He remained four years, from 1629, to August 15th, 1633, when he sailed for London in the Hopewell. In the second part of this work Wood gives a complete description of the Indian tribes then inhabiting- this region. It has besides, the first map of '"The SoutJi Part of N civ-Eng- land, as it is Planted this Yean\ i6j4f wherein he locates the ^'arious rivers, settlements, etc. Herein is shown our " Spott pond," " Misticke pond," " Horn ponds," and others. As Mr. Boynton says: "To those who highly regard the first steps in the founding of a great nation this little work is of rare value and historical interest." The exaggerations of the first comers, with other causes, added to the tide of immigration, which was very much increased in 1630, and Cambridge, Boston. Dorchester, and other places received their first inhabitants. The disappointments and sufferings of those who were not well prepared to meet the hardships and dangers of a pioneer's life were, no doubt, as strongly set forth to their friends in England as had been the attractions and advantages of the country before. As a consequence, in part, immigration nearly ceased, and some returned to England. But after a }'ear or two ship after ship continued to arrive in the liarbors of Salem and Boston : and growing communities of sturdy Puritans attested at once the troubles which had befallen the mother land, and the permanence of the refuge which Providence had opened upon the bleak shores of Massachusetts Bay. A new empire had been founded ; and upon a narrow strip of countr}-. between unknown forests and the barren sands and sombre nx^ks of an unkind coast, a handful of earnest men and women, in tlie language of the time, "chosen vessels" and "precious seed." began to work out that problem of freedom which forecasts the coniing (rlory of the Ages. From the green lanes and ancient towns of Essex, full of the traditions and as.sociations of a thousand years, to the tangled forests and the wild shores of a new world : from the old English homes to the land which God had prepared for the chosen seed whose fruitage was to be a great nation, — these are to us of the nineteenth century but the turning of a leaf; but to the men and women of i(i2S. a stormy waste of waters and many weeks of anxiety and distress, of weeping and praying, lay between the homes of their childhood and the unknown land where they were to watch and work and la\- their bones to rest.''' 1-^ Corey, History of Maldoi, 28, 29. EARLY EXPLORATION. 9 Two large and powerful tribes held sway in this region when our fathers landed, — the Massachusetts and the Pawtuckets. The re- nowned sachem of the Pawtuckets was Nanepashemit. who took up his abode on the Mystic River in 1615. and was killed there three or foiir years later. He was the father of Sagamore John of the Mystic, Sagamore James of L}nn. and Sagamore George of Salem. George finally filled the place of his father, and was sachem of the Pawtuckets. During the residence of Nanepashemit in Medford. his lodge was on Rock Hill, where he could best watch the approach of his enemies. . . . The territory for many miles round Mystic Ri\er was owned and occupied by small tribes or detachments, each hax'ing its own head. Medford and some of the adjoining territory belonged to Sagamore John, whose Indian name was Monohagnaham. and who. was friendly to our ancestors, and gave our fathers permission to settle, and after- wards apprised them of premeditated attacks by unfriendly Indians.'-* Sagamore John had his headquarters in Maiden, his home beint^- in the southern part of the town, now Ex'erett, "upon a creek, which runs from the marshes between Powder- Horn Hill and Winnesimmet. into the M\stic Ri\-er at Sweeetzer's, or Beacham's, Point." ^"^ i-* Brooks, History of IMedJovd, 91, 92. ^^ This creek is now kuowu as Island End River, or Chelsea Creek . The point has been known as Van Voorhis, and Wormwood. — some- times corrupted into Wormal's Point. For a complete history of the various tribes of Indians that were found in this rejrion bv the early settlers, and the policy which governed those who "saw in the apparent!}' aimless wanderings of the Indians no traces of that occu- pancy and subjugation of the earth which civilization has made a ne- cessity and the Scripture enjoins as a duty," see the History of ^falden, IMassachusetts, 1633-1JS5, by Delo- raine P. Corey, pp. 29-53, chapter, " Discoverers and Indians." CHAPTER II. TERRITORY. MALDEN. ORIGINALLY the territory of Melrose belonged to the town of Charlestown, which was settled in 1629, and was a far more extensix^e region than that now belong- ing to it. It then included what is now Somerv'ille, Maiden, Everett, VVoburn, Burlington, Melrose, Stoneham, a small part of Cambridge, West Cambridge and Reading, and a large part of Medford. Town after town was taken from it, grad- uall}' diminishing its territory until it became the smallest town, territorially, in the State. Woburn, comprising Bur- lington, was taken from it and incorporated in 1642; Mai- den, in 1649; Stoneham, in 1725; Somerville, in 1842. In 1717 and 1725, a large tract called "North Charlestown," was set off, part to Maiden and part to Reading. In 1754, another tract, including several large farms, was set off to Medford, and now forms the eastern part of that city. A tract was set off to Cambridge in 1802, and to West Cam- bridge in 1842. Thus was Charlestown, now a district of Boston, reduced to its present limits. Very early in the history of Charlestown, differences of opinion connected with the boundaries of the different towns arose, which necessitated a settlement by the General Court; and at "A Court, holden att Boston," July 2, 1633, M\-stic Side, or Mystic Field [now Maiden] was granted to Charles- town, it being then ordered That the ground lyeing betwixte the North RyV [sometimes called " Three Myle lirooke."' now Maiden River] & the creeke on the north side of M' Mauacks, & soe vpp into the country, shall belonge to the inhabitants of Charlton. As " N])]) into the country" did not determine how far the line should go, another order passed "Att the Gen''all Court, holden att Newe Towne, March 3, 1635," was more definite: TERRITORY. 11 Ordered, That Charles Towne bounds shall run ei,i,dit myles into the country from their meeteinji;' howse, if noe other bt)unds intercept, reserueinj"; the pprietie of ffernies j^raunted to John Winthrop Esq., M"" Nowell, M"" Cradocke lS: M"" Wilson, to the owners thereof, as also ffree inijresse ^: e,t;resse for the serv's & cattell of the said gent. iV- cofiion for their cattell. on the backeside of M^ C'radocks ffernie. In 1836, a commission consisting" of Abraham ralnu-r, \\il- liam Cheeseborou.^di and William Spencer, decided and deter- mined the bounds as follows : Agreed by vs. whose names are vnder written, that the bounds betweene Boston iS: Charles Towne, on the noreast .syde of Misticke Ryver, shall run from the mked tree vpon the rocky hill above Rumney Marshe, neere the w ritten tree nore-norewest vjDon a straight lyne by a meridean compas vpp into the countrie. Corey, in his History of Maldoi, in Samuel Adams Drake's History of Middlesex County, iSSo, saws : This line, running from near " Black Ann's Corner "" in Linden, has never been changed, and is still the eastern limit of Maiden and Melrose. The rocky hill, called in 1635 •' a point of rock, on the side of the high way to Mistick,"' may still be recognized, and is a promi- nent feature in the landscape; but the "marked tree," an ancient pine, after having been a landmark more than a century, disappeared many years ago. This boundary (luestion is a.^ain referred to in the Charles-^ town records of 1638, as follows : "the Gen" Court had setled theire Bounds by L^n-antinij;- eight miles from the old Meeting- house into the Contr\' XtM'thwest Xorthrly." A year later Charlestown received the following deed from the original owners. Of this Indian deed of our territory- given by Squaw Sachem and Webcowet, recorded in Middlesex Count\- Deeds, i. igo, Corey, in his History of Maiden, p. 34, says : In 1639 the two signed a deed by which they conveyed to the inhabitants of Charlestown, with some reservations, all the lands which the Court had granted them, including the bounds of the present cities of Maiden and Kverett, and the town of Melrose. This document is of interest to us as being the hrst and only con- veyance of the aboriginal title in the territory which we occupy. The consideration, or " sattisfaction," proves how little the Indians valued their rights and how cheaply the settlers quieted their claims. 12 HISTORY OF MELROSE. The I 5 ''3 of the 2. mt; 1639. Wee Web Cowet & Squaw Sachem do sell vnto the Inhabitants of the Towne of Charlestowne, all the land with in the lines granted them by the Court (excepting the farmes and the ground, on the West of the two great Ponds called misticke ponds, from the South side of mr Nowells lott, neere the \'pp'' end of the Ponds, \-nto the little run- net that Cometh from Capt Cookes mills which the Squaw reser\-eth to their vse, for her life, for the Jndians to plant and hunt vpon, and the weare above the Ponds, they also reserve for the Jndians to fish at whiles the Squaw liveth, and after the death of Squaw Sachem shee cloth leave all her lands from m"' Mayhues house [Cradock house on east bank of the M^-stic River] to neere Salem to the present Gov- erno'', m'' Jn" Winthrop Sen'', m'' Increase Nowell, m'' Jno Wilson, m'' Edward Gibons to dispose of, and all Jndians to depart, and for sattisfaction from Charlestowne, wee acknowledge to have received in full sattisfaction twenty and one coates ninten fathom of \\'ampon, & three bushels of come. In witnes whereof we ha\e here vnto sett o^ hands, the day and yeare above named. the marke of Squa Sachem, m^ the marke of Web cciwet. m. Subscribed in the p^sence off Jno HUMPHREV Robert Feake. This is to testifie that the aforenamed purchase was made at the charges of the Jnhabitants of Charlestowne. and to their vse, and for so much as lyeth with in their limitts. we do accordingly resigne, and yeld vp all our interest therein to the vse of the said towne. according to the trust reposed in vs. lot'' m'.' iStii, 1639. Jno Winthrop Gondii''. Jncrease Nowell. Jn'o Wilson. Entred tS: Recorded. 23111 ,S nv; 1656. By Thomas Dan forth Recorder. Nothwithstanding the near presence of the natixes, the people of Charlestown began at a very early period to push out into the adjacent country, and within and without the borders of that town to settle where\er they could find land suited to their needs. New colonists were constanth' arri\ing from England, and during the first ten years after the arrival of Winthrop it is estimated that four thousand families had reached the shores of New England, including more than twenty- one thousand persons. The}' had come from a countrj' where the ownership of land was a prize which only the wealthy were able to secure, and the almost limitless bounds of the western world attracted a continued wave of emigration, with liberal homesteads and farms, TERRITORY. 13 almost free of cost, as the expected rewards of their enterprise. The eagerness displayed in our own day by the settlers of Oklahoma and other newly-opened Territories to possess advantageous sites for homes, finds a parallel in the days of our fathers, when almost for the asking the poor English laborer, with only sufficient means to secure a passage across the Atlantic, could become the lord of lands on a footing, so far as ownership was concerned, with the more favored in his English home.' In a few years after the settlement of Charlestown, the inhabitants from that town and other sources, bej^an to cross over the Mystic River, and settle at ]\I>'stic Side; it was thus known as earl)- as 1634; and when Thomas Coytmore, "a right godly man," built a dam, and soon after a mill at " Black Rock," on "Three Myie Brook," near the present center of Maiden, quite a settlement had been established ; and, owing to their distance from Charlestown proper, very soon the inhabitants began to think of forming a new town, and hav- ing taken the necessary steps, on May 11, 1649, the General Court passed the following vote : In answer to the peticon of seull inhabitants of Misticke side their request is graunted, viz., to be a distinct towne of themselves, ^: the name thereof to be Maulden. Concerning the formation of this town. Captain Edward Johnson, of VVoburn, in his Wondcr-ivorking Providence of Siivis Saviour in Neiv England, published in London, in 1654, sa^•s that Maiden was settled by certain persons, who issued out of Charlestown. and indeed had her whole structure within the bounds of this more elder Town, being severed by the broad spreading river of Mistick the one from the other, w-hose troublesome passage caused the people on the North side of the river to plead for Town priviledges within themselves^ which accordingly was granted them ; the soyl is very fertile, but they are much straitened in their bounds, yet their neerness to the chief Market Towns, makes it the more comfortable for habitation. Maiden was named after the town of Maldon, England, by Joseph Hills and others, who came from that town. "The affections of the first })lanters of New^ England still clung, as was natural, to the soil of their nativity; and they designed, by the names they bestow^ed on the places of their 1 Davis, History of jVa/dcii, for Lewis' History of Middlesex County, 1S90. 14 HISTORY OF MELROSE. abode, in this land of their adoi:)tion, to keej) ali\-e in their breasts the tender associations of home.'"" Mr. Hills was not only an early settler in Mx'stic .Side, but a \'er)' prominent citizen, and a man of marked ability. He took a \'ery prom- inent part in the rexision of the jNlassachusetts laws, in 1648, which were first issued in 164 1, as the Body of Liberties by Nathaniel Ward, and which became the authorized code of la\\s for New England. In 1727, Maiden lost (|uile a lari;e tract of territory which would now ha\'e formed a part of Melrose had this action not ha\-e taken place. A number of families who liwd at the extreme northerl>' part, became dissatisfied by lieini^- so remote from the Middle of the Town, that they are under ,>;reat Inconveniences & Ditlficulties to attend the pul^lick Worship there, cV their Cavil i.\: Military Duties in the Said Town cV that they ly much nearer to Reading". The\' therefore made application In- ])t(itiim, to be annexed to that town; and at that time the town ot ReadiuL;- \-oted: That ujjon the jjetition of our nei.uhbors of North end of Maiden, Richard I'pham and William dreen rei)resentinj;- them, we will j^etition the (jeneral Court that a number of our ueiuhbors of North Knd of Maiden be set to Readin.^-.-' The town of Maiden Noted, .May 2J, 1727: That yt' tenn famel\s \t ha\e i)etioned to be Laid off from this Town, unto y^' 'lown of Reding-. ha\e lal)erty to goe to Redini;- with there Estates Acordins;- to their petion. -Ill ils ])rL-seiit aspect, Maldon New Entiland. . . . Out of thi.s retains mam- of the features which ancient IMaldon came in 16:^8, Jo- were familiar to that little band of sejdi Hills, a woollen-draper, and pil!.,M-iiiis who, aliout the first of with him, or a little later, Jt)hn .\l)ril, 1638, sailed down the river Wayte, who married his daui^hter in an "Ipswicli Ilye." Its single Mary. . . . These men became main street, running about a mile early holders of land in the vicin- east and west, and now intersected ity of Wayte's Mount, on Mystic by several cross streets, its vener- vSide. . . . The misuse of many able churches and halls, the ebbing years, bv substituting Maiden for and flowing river washing its an- Maldon, has ])ermanently fixed the cieiit wharves, the green fields incorrect ft)rni of the same which around, and all those kindly in- we now use. Corey, History of fluences which have made Essex Matdcn, 9, 12. the garden of Kngland, were often , v.^u.xx, Hhtorv of Rcadino-, 142. remembered by wistiul hearts in TERRITORY. lo The Legislature accortlingly confirmed tlie wishes of both parties as follows: Resolved. That the Prayer of the Petition be granted. \' that the said ten Families & their Estates be annexed to «S: accounted as Part of the Town of Reading for the future, according to the Line set forth in the Petition ; Any Law, Usage or Custom to the Contrary Notwithstanding. Jn Council: Read \- ConcurVl Consented to, \\ '" l)i mmkr.^ The section thus lost to Maiden shortened the town more than a mile, and carried with it some of the wealthiest inhabitants. It is to this addition to the limits of the old town of Reading that the town of Wakefield owes the peculiar configuration of its southerly portion em- bracing the present \illage of Cireenwocxl.'"' The names of the ten families thus changing their town connections were: William Green, Thomas Upham, Nathaniel E\-ans, David Green, John Walton, .Samuel Evans, John K\-ans, Richard Upham, .Samuel Howard and Thomas Cireen. In 1734, still another tract of the northwestern ])art of Maiden was set off, by Legislati\e act, to the town of .'~>t()neham. There was a cluster of Green families in this part of the town who were also remote from religious ]jri\ileges, and who were not embraced in the action of \J2j. A petition to the General Court, June Ji, 1734. signed by John Green. Isaac Green, John Dexter and Jonas Green of Maiden, and Da\icl Green, Thomas Green and Samuel Cireen of Reading, which petition set forth "their Difficulty to attend the Public Worship of Cjotl in their Towns by Reason of their Remoteness from the meeting house; "and praying "That they and their family's and I-'.slates may by order of this Court be annexed to the Town of Slone- ham." Fa\-orable action was grantetl Dec. Ji, 1734. This territory comprised most all of that now known as the Mc-Jrose Highlands, and it remained a j^art of .^toneham until 1853, when, after much opposition on the }jart of that town, it was reunitetl to the territory of Melrose. * Cowra/ Co/ii/ A'tio/(/s, xiii, T,22. "^ Corey, History of Ma/drn. ^^)2. 16 HISTORY OF MELROSE. -^•cl <^llf^^ S^J!, ^Oc Y *^a.;f 4^^rr /2. 5^,1^^ M, ,^ ^/6,v, t^f^ Of<^— /? *,i<r7- ^ H' --^ (2rT>n>,-^u^ -^yC^-rv *ru^^ '^ArJ/l^x^ The Commons. This was an extensive tract of land belong- in,<4- to the town of Maiden, embracing about thirty-five hund- red acres, which was nearly one-half of the town, as then con- stituted. About twenty-three hundred of these acres covered all of the eastern part of what is now Melrose, and most of what was once the northerly part of Maiden; that portion now known as Greenwood. It was the land lying east of Ell Pond, and east of Lebanon and Green Streets, extending from a little way below Swain's Pond in the south, up into Wakefield, then Reading, to Smith's Pond, now called Crystal Lake; and to within about half a mile of Reading meeting-house. It was "full of statel\- timber." and, say the Charlestown records: ''The above is a facsimile of the Peter Hay aud Daniel Greeu, Jr., report made by the Selectmen of of the running of the bounds be- Maklen, Jonathan Barrett, Deacon tweeu Stoneham and Maiden, after Thomas Lynde and James Hovey ; this tract had been annexed to aud Stoneham, Jonathan Green, Stoneham. TERRITORY. 17 "indeed generally all tlu- country round about was an uncouth wilderness." It was the home of the Indian and the wild beast. We are told that when our ancestors made their settlement at Shaw- mut, now Boston, they sent out a number of persons to examine the country to the North, who, havin<j searched the first range of hills, probably the range near us, then covered with forests, returned and reported, that, having reached a mountainous and rocky country, they deemed it best to come back, as there was little probability that the settlement would ever extend beyond these mountains. ^ In the process of time these lands came to be very desirable both for woodland and pasturage; and the Town of Maiden had been greatly troubled, not only by its own citizens but by their "Charlestown neighbors," to whom frequent warnings had been given, prohibiting them from thus trespassing, and cutting and teaming wood and timber from this common land, or in pasturing sheep and cattle. Therefore action was taken by the town looking to its preservation and utility'. In March, i6S-'4 it was \-oted: That no fyrwood shall be feld or cutt \ppon the common this yeare ensueing but what is or shalbe lying on the ground on penalt}' of hue shillings p"" tree. Excepting on the south syde of the rocks from Joseph Wayts house to Lem" Jenkins & from thence on the South^ly side the swamp to the Town lyne. In 1687 "^ citizen was fined £"3. lo for "carriing and cutting timber of the common contrar}' to a Town order ; " and in 1691, John green Jn"" Joses Bucknam Se^ Thomas newhall Isak Hill Jacob parker thay were chosen as a committ}- to prosecute in a course of law any that shall offend by cutting and earring wood of maiden common. Action was taken for a division of these "Commons" among the freeholders, by the Town, July 12, 1693, when a committee was appointed "to Run y line between the common and pro- prietors land;" and March 26, 1694: The former Coniitie met and l<.un y<^ bounds Round Keedy pond ye bounds Are first a great buttenwood tree before Joseph Lines dore. and so bounded Round with seuernll trees marked with letter C next common. And erected seuerall heapes of stons The same day Run ye line about Joseph waits plain : and niarkt seuerall trees with letter C next ye common. ' Adams, Bi-Ccntcnnial Book of Maiden, p. 94. 18 HISTORY OF MELROSE. ye same day Run ye line Round Swains pond nieddow and marked seuerall trees with letter C next ye common : ye same daj' ye bounds was Run about wilkesons -land [near Long Pond] and marked seuerall trees next ye common with letter C. The same day ye bounds was Run about Squiers meddo and marked seuerall trees next y^ common with letter C. Nov. 20, 1694, a committee consisting of three men, not resi- dents of Maiden, was appointed to devise a plan for this division of these common lands amono- the inhabitants of Mai- den; and it was then also \-oted: "That y* common shall be deuided: bottom and top y* is land And wood." 2iJ^t'^<^i- fn Ji<yn cPY-a^' cj^i-^fn oi -AitVM^ -{^fd^fcrpi^t^c^i^ic np^tulc. rf ft^ 4,f c^r.y ^/i^ff^ : Jy^3 ^^ <r^'rt U/^-^ U «<»w '^^ ^.u-h^> ^c.,. tf-'^' ^fc^. -^vAr^ ^'/i/^/'-o <r^.M, ^»;; That committee made the following report: Nov. 26, 1694. Whereas, we Subscribers are Requested or Im- powed: by ye inhabitants of Maldon To prescribe a way for y^ deuid- ing of their common both Land and wood : — we considering the seuerall methods and way of Their Raising of Town Charges for time past: first we doe adjug their be a commite chose of Indeferant men To set out so much land for i^eipatuall common as they shall see meete. 2b-. that there be a true Invoice taken of every true proprietors estate And twenty pounds aded for the heads of euery free-holder according To town vote whather male or famale. 3'>- then for 5^e Rest of ye common draw lots for equall proportions Acording to the Inuoice beginning your lots at }e ^iper end of jour common next Reding : at ye southwest corner and so Run dowards in two deuisions or more if you see cause. Major William Johnson. Capt John Smith. CAPT John Brown. Dec. 25, Deacon John (ireen, John Greenland, Tr\-al New- berry, Phineas Upham, Thomas Newhall, Lieutenant Joseph Wilson and Henry Green were chosen to proceed with the division of the "Commons" according to the direction "of y*^ formar commite nameh' those gentillmen That are chosen out TERRITORY. 19 of this town." Many other \otes gi\-ing details for accomplish- ing this important matter were passed; among them it was: Also agreead upon by ye conimitie y' for y^ deuidin<:j of y^ common euery properioters name shall be writ distintl}- : and }' y^ lots be well shutied together: And one man chose by y^ town: To draw y" out of a bag: and \^ first man y' is drawen shall have y^ first lot in y^ com- mon begining as aforsaid And so sucksesiuely as y^ are all drawen To the proportion of looo accres and then to proseed in \^ same way and method for another looo accres. It is also agreead upon by ye commite That there shall be 2 pols in breadth between euery Raing of lots for high wais : and that euery mans lot shall Run Eighty two pool in leangth for }' end. Also that " this comitee hes pouer to improue An artis to lay out ye lots," and that John Sargeant Jr., be authorized " To draw y^ out of a bag." Mr. Corey, who has made a verj' thorough study of these "Commons" and their disposition, says: The allotment was finally completed; and the record begins as follows : Recorded May 3-^ 30 : 1695 : An a Greement of the Town of maiden In deuiding of The common The tirst deuision begining at the upar end next to nathaniell eueness land by Charlstown line: In mannar as followeth : y^ lots Runing 82 pool in length. This division, which contained nine hundred and thirty-one acres and fifty-one poles, was laid out in seven ranges and seventy-four lots. It comprised the northern portion of the town between the bounds of Boston and Charlestown. The Evans farm of sixty acres, on the westerly side of the road, and the woodland, which had been reserved for the ministry, on the easterly side, alone parted it from the Reading line at Smith's Pond. This tract of common was broken by the Green farm, by a piece of land north of L Pond which belonged to the estate of Thomas Coytmore as early as 1653, by ten acres of meadow " aboue the old cow pen in Mauldon " which Joseph Hills had sold to Henry Evans in 1660, and, perhaps, by smaller lots of appropriated land. ['I'his division extended to our present Howard Street.] The second division of the two thousand acres, containing nine hundred and forty-two acres and twentj-eight poles, was laid out in six ranges and seventy-five lots. [Extending from Howard Street to south of Grove Street.] Beginning " by elle ponde," it stretched over the highlands towards the Bo.ston line, covering the country east of the Reading Road [Main Street] and north of Swain's Pond. [Quite a large proportion of this territory is now known as East Side.] Some of the ways reserved for passage between the ranges in this division be- came highways in time and still exist. [I'orter. L'pham. and Grove 20 HISTORY OF MELROSE. Streets.] . . . These two divisions comprised the territory known as the two thousand acres and contained, together, eighteen hvuidred and seventy-three acres and seventy-nine poles, as measured by Mr. Fisk. the " artis." The third division is described as "The third diuision for the Remander of the wood Land one the este sid the mill brook called the three hundred ackrs Begining at sargent Skiners Lote and are to rune 40 poles in length." Its seventj'-four lots embraced three hundred and eleven acres ^nid fifty-eight poles of the woodland between Swain's Pond and Scadan. [Now known as " South East," and includes the high summit of Mount Hood.] The balance of these "Commons" now di\-idecl, was on terri- tory now Maiden. There were seventy-four proprietors and freeholders who shared in this allotment; the names are all given by Mr. Core}', in his History of Maiden, pp. 376-7. Soon after this division w-as made many of the lots were sold to persons who had no interest in the common land, and about the year 1700, many of the people who already owned, or now- bought, began to build houses and settle upon their lots. A piece of land at the eastern end of Ell Pond, where now^ stand the ice-houses, was reser\ed for a watering place, and for the washing of flax, the material of which the home-made clothing of the early inhabitants was made. It appears that the abutters began to encroach upon this public water resort, and April 17, 1699, Corporal John Green, Phineas Upham, and Joseph Floyd were chosen to run y*^ bounds and renew }•« marks between proprioters land : and 3-^ small peece of common land : adjoining to L pond : which was left for convenence of watering. Still later, at the annual meeting held March 4, 1765, another x'Ote concerning this public privilege was passed: It was put to vote to see if the town will give liberty to mr Samuel Green and others to run a fence between ell pond and the highway, provided they leve a convenient way open for watering of cattle at the pond And keep convenient draw bars or a gate for people to pass and repass with their teams in the usual place of their going to and from said pond with their tlax. .\nd it passed in the affermative. MELROSE. At the time the Boston and Maine Railroad was completed,, the territory of Melrose, then know^n as "North Maiden," and earlier as " North End," was very sparsely settled. Very TERRITORY. 21 soon after it commenced operation. July 4, 1845, people from Boston and other places, began to investigate our pleasant vale for residences; and in a short time many families had here made their homes. The church, business, town and social relations were so separated from the centre and main town of Maiden, that the citizens began to agitate a separation from the mother town, and the setting up of a municipality b\- itself; and in 1848, and 1849, ^^'^^^ matter was most earnestly can- vassed, and action taken. On March 22, 1849, ^n act was reported to the House of Representatives for the incorpora- tion of the Town of Melrose, which was passed April 10, almost unanimously; but it failed to receive the concurrence of the Senate b}- a vote of twenty-seven to three."^ Later in this same year, 1849, Maiden, foreseeing that with these railroad facilities, and the varied and natural beauty of our situation, we should in a very few >'ears become a growing, thrift)' and prosperous community, and cherishing the most kindly and friendly feelings for their brethren in the north part of the town, wisely con- cluded to make no further objection to such separation; and, at a legal meeting of the inhabitants of the town of Maiden, held Nov. 26, 1849, it was voted: To choose a committee to view and report to the town such line as the committee shall think to be the proper line between the town of Maiden and the pro- posed town of Melrose. The selectmen were chosen to act on this committee; and at a town meeting held Dec. 21, 1849, the selectmen re- ayz \ ported the divisional line which was then adopted and is in existence today. The town also \oted at this same meeting, to instruct their Representative elect * Diary kept by the late Aarou called Melrose — was to be set off Green, for 1849. But so thoroughly from Maiden, that assessors were convinced was every one that appointed to take the valuation of North Maiden — now regularly this part of the town ; and accord- 22 HISTORY OF MELROSE. that if the inhabitants of Meh'ose petition tlie Legislature for the divi- sion Hne as reported by the Selectmen to advocate the setting off of Melrose but if any other line be asked for then to oppose the setting off. A petition was presented to the Legislature early in 1850, by Elbridge Green and others, praying that the northerly part of Maiden, which had been called North Maiden for many years, be set off and incorporated as a separate town to be called Melrose. At a town meeting held in Maiden, February 7, 1850, it was voted: That whereas, a petition had been presented to the Legislature, by Elbridge Green and others, praying that the northerlj^ section of Maiden may be set off and incorporated as a separate town, to be called Melrose, and whereas an order of notice has been issued on said petition therefore, Resolved, That we, the citizens of Maiden in town meeting assembled, called according to law, to act on said order of notice, do hereb}' express our approval of said petition. Resolved, That the line of separation petitioned for is a proper line, and one that meets our approval, and which, in our opinion, ought to be adopted, and the prayer of said petition be granted. Resolved, That the representative be, and he is, hereby instructed to aid the petition, in all honorable ways, to accomplish the object of their petition, keeping always in view the interest of the town in word- ing the act of incorporation. The Joint Special Committee, in reporting to the Legisla- ture, April 27, 1850, among other advantages enumerated these: This part of the town, which bears the name of Melrose, is separated from the other by a natural barrier ; the proposed line of division run- ning through a wild, unimproved, and almost uninhabitable territory, constituting, in most respects, a far better boundary than a line passing through a cultivated and populous region, cutting farms, and sep- arating immediate neighbors into different towns. The business and social relations of Melrose are not with the other ing to this same diary, now iu the rose as appeared iu 1849. A True possession of Maurice G. Cochrane, Coppy From Maiden Book. Real a grandson of the diarist, they Estate, 336,352 ; Personal Estate, commenced their duties May i, of 48,509; Total, $384,861. Number that year, and finished May 11. Polls, 272. Aaron Green, S. h. The result as given in a written Taylor, W. J. P'arnsworth, asses- poster was as follows : sors of Melrose. Valuation of the Town of Mel- TERRITORY. 23 portions of Maiden ; it seems to form a distinct community, and, in the opinion of the committee, is destined to become a separate town, and that a separation would contribute to the convenience, harmony, and prosperity of the inhabitants, and would be no injury or disadvantage to the remaining part of Maiden. It would leave a fine, pleasant, and prosperous town, within full \iew, and in the immediate vicinity of Boston, affording- many eligible building sites, and containing num- erous valuable farms. In accordance with the mutually expressed wishes of the inhabitants of both sections, an act was drawn and reported to the Legislature, which was adopted; and Melrose was in- corporated May 3, 1850. It then had 1,260 inhabitants, and an assessed valuation of $483,446.00. A committee of three from each town was appointed " to make a just and ecjuitable settlement of all the financial concerns appertaining to said towns & the property belong- ing to the same." Gilbert Hax-en, Lemuel Cox, and Daniel A. Perkins were appointed for Maiden, and George Emerson, Isaac Emerson and Aaron Green for Melrose. In 1853, that part of Maiden which was set off to Stone- ham in 1734, most of the territory of which is now known as the Melrose Highlands, and which embraced also what is now- the Sewall Woods Park, containing about twenty-five houses with sevent}--fi\'e inhabitants, was set off and annexed to Melrose. The residence of Hon. Samuel E. Sewall was until then in Stoneham; and he was elected Senator to the Massachusetts Legislature in 1852, from that town. A move- ment had begun sometime previous to this to have this sec- tion set off to the new town of Melrose, for the reason that the inhabitants could be much better accommodated with school, church, business, and town facilities. For this pur- pose an act was introduced in the Legislature of 1852, but it was unsuccessful. The next year an act of annexation was passed, March 15, 1853, thus adding three hundred and eighty-one acres to the area of our territory, making a total of thirty-one hundred and fourteen and seventy one-hundredths acres. Melrose is situated in the eastern part of the County of Middlesex, and is se\en miles directly north of Boston. It is bounded on the north by Wakefield, on the east b\- Saugus, (which is in the Count}' of Essex,) on the south by Maiden, 24 HISTORY OF MELROSE. and the west by Stoneham, and a small corner of Medford. Its shape is somewhat irregular, having a width on the Wake- field line of about a mile and a half, on the Saugus line two and a half miles, a little less than three miles on the Maiden, and nearly two and a half miles on the Stoneham and Medford line. It is most charmingly sit- uated, possessing a surface diversified with a great \'ari- ety of natural scenery; it has hills, valleys, ponds, streams and wildwoods; it contains a portion of the famous Mid- dlesex Fells, now embraced in the extensive Metropoli- tan Park System. It is particularly fortunate in possessing numerous high and unwooded summits, from which may be obtained unobstructed views of ocean, cities, towns, wood ranges, surro.unding hills and distant mountain peaks. Perhaps the one from Mount Hood — formerly known as " Bear Hill," situated in the southeasterl}' part of the town, near the line between Melrose and Saugus, affords the most interesting and far-reaching of these views; although not so much of our own valley and its residences is seen, as from some of those more centrally located. In a clear day the view is one of great grandeur. Some fifteen years ago, Mr. Wen- dell P. Hood built a small house on the top of this mount, sunk a well, set out fruit trees, and ploughed and sowed several of the surrounding acres with grain. But in process of time the house was burned, cultivation neglected, and the region has now resumed its wild and old-time appearance. From this summit, beginning in the northerly direction, in plain \'ievv, there rises the extensive establishment of the Danvers Insane Asylum; thence the eye sweeps along over the Lynn Woods Reservation, crowned with the Lynn Water Works standpipe, which is situated on Pine, or Reservoir Hill, to the City of Lynn, the Town of Nahant, and a portion of Swampscot, with the Town of Saugus nestling in the interven- ing valley; then from Lynn Harbor, a strt'tch of ocean sweeps around to the south shore and Boston Harbor, dotted with the TERRITORY. 25 white sails of commerce and pleasure, and the smoke of passing steamers; Boston Light and Minot's Ledge Light- house are in view; over the towns of Winthrop and Revere, and the cities of Chelsea and Everett, the gilded dome of the State House rises from out of the midst of the "Hub;" heyontl stretches the long line of Blue Hills of Milton, with the observatory on the summit of Great Blue Hill, the whole being now known as the Blue Hills Reservation, and is a part of the Metropolitan Park System; in the west, beyond a reach of wilderness, known as the "Scadan Woods," ^ glimpses of Maiden are seen, with Wayte's Mount, crowned with the Maiden Reservoir; beyond is College Hill with its cluster of Tufts College buildings; and above the intcr\cning towns and hills, far away, is seen the crown of Mount Wachusett; while still farther north, over Melrose itself, with the hills be>-ond, stands old Monadnock and many other summits; the whole presenting a most enchanting and soul-inspiring scene. Nearer the center of the town, yet in the southerh' part, on the easterly side of the valle)-, Boston Rock commands a wonderfully charming landscape; the \alley below with the extensive plant of the Boston Rubber Shoe Company, and the still remaining old-time Lynde homesteads, and many highl\- cultivated acres; Wyoming Cemetery — " God's Acre," — where sleep those who have joined the " silent majority," directl>- beneath; an expanse of ocean; the cities of Maiden, Everett, Chelsea, Somerville, Charlestown and Boston, and the Blue Hills beyond; nearer, the Pine Banks Park and Wayte's Mount, on which summit was placed one of the beacons during the Revolution, with which to warn the surrounding country of approaching danger. For a number of years Boston Rock was the home of a hermit.^" * Quite au extensive tract, being roads, some still in use, were laid all that territory embracing the eastern part of Maiden, beyond Faulkner, including "Black Ann's Corner," and the southeastern portion of Melrose adjoining, was known under the general name of "Scadan." It had within its bor- ders, not only hills, woods, swamp, plain and upland, but a number of inhabitants were scattered through- out its territory. A number of out therein, by a committee ap- pointed by the town, April 8, 1695, the details of which are given by Corey in his History of I\Ialden, pp. 372-3. i'^ The name of this hermit was J. Wesley Dodge, whose mind had become unsettled in a love affair, and who, about .1852, erected a small house and workshop on the summit of this rock, where he 26 HISTORY OF MELROSE. Across the valley, , on the west, there is a line of rugged hills, embi-acing the finest cliff scenery in the vicinity of Boston, in the centre of which Black Rock, the highest point is situated, and from which a ver_v extensive and most beau- tiful \-iew is obtained; even more extensive than that from Boston Rock, on the opposite side of the valley, as it is considerably higher; not only the open plain below with the many grass co\-ered and cultivated acres, but, on either hand the Cities of Melrose and Maiden, lay spread out before you in their entirety. The \'iew in the east and south is quite similar to that from Mount Hood, already described; but to the west it is quite different, as it appears to be a dense wilderness; but this wilderness somewhat belies its appearance; for it has not onl}' long been penetrated by innumerable foot-paths, but now has been thoroughly interlaced with good roads and fine boulex'ards, made under the superintendence of the Metropoli- tan Park Commissioners, which afford a \ariety of most charm- ing drives to the thousands upon thousands of pleasure seekers who avail themselves of the wild scenery embraced in the Middlesex Fells; and it is a perfect paradise for bicycle riders. And here, in the centre of the bold and rugged cliffs which guard the eastern edge of the Fells, between Black Rock and White Rock, plainly in view from the passing railroad trains and electric cars, a large portion of the year, comes gliding down from the brow of these cliffs, a most beautiful waterfall which forms one of the many attractions of this wild region. This cascade is as attractive, and as well worth seeing, as many another, to which traxellers go hundreds of miles to admire. The swamps of the numerous valleys, the springs of the hills, and the overflow of many little lakelets existing in the elevated plateau above, far more extensive than any one unacquainted with them can imagine, unite to contribute their waters to this most charm- ing waterfall. One of its tributaries, the main one, bears lived as a recluse. He had au inventive cast of mind, but his principal occupation was that of a stencil -cutter. He afterwards married and lived at Oak Grove, Maiden, and his former house was burned. The cellar-hole still ex- ists. He died a few years ago. A very pretty romance connected with these circumstances was contrib- uted to the Roundabout Budget, under the title " The Hermit of Boston Rock,'.' by B. Marvin Fer- uald. It was afterwards printed in the Melrose Jourtial of March 3, 1888. TERRITORY. 27 the unique name of " Shilly-Shally Brook." In dry seasons the supply of water is so meagre that its beauty disappears, only to come again when the rains and snows of another season form a supply. In the winter a very interesting ice- work formation affords a pleasing exhibition to the visitor. Of this cascade, the late Artemas Barrett gave this reminis- cence: From cutting of the forest to clear the land, and turning the water in other directions this cascade Hows but little compared with forty years ago. In my boyhood with what admiration have I gazed upon this cascade from this very spot, as the waters came tumbling in such torrents down those rocky sides. Many have been the nights in my SPOT POND BROOK CASCADE. youth after retiring to rest, [he then lived in the old " Mountain House," at the corner of Maple and Vinton Streets] that I have listened to the music of these falls when the waters went plunging and roaring down its rocky pathway. Alas, its glory has now nearly departed ! Another pretty but smaller waterfall, which ma\- be called Spot Pond Brook Cascade, is situated not far from the one just described, on Spot Pond Brook, a short distance north of where formerly stood the IIa\-wardvillc Rubber Works, better known as the Red Mills. Years asfo the brook was dammed 28 HISTORY OF MELROSE. to make a pond of water for water-power purposes of the near- by mill, and this cascade is its o\'erflow. The water that supplies Spot Pond Brook no lonj^er comes from Spot Pond itself, but from Doleful and Dark Hollow Ponds, which are small ponds situated a short distance to the north and west, respectively, of Spot Pond. These waters do not now flow as formerl>' into Spot Pond, but b\- open channel and conduits are taken beneath that pond just west of Old Pepe's Cove, and thus supply Spot Pond Hrook. Unlike the Cascade between l^lack and White Rocks, which is lion est in midsummer, the waters from these two sources, Doleful and Dark Hollow Ponds, are sufficient to maintain this waterfall constant!)-; sometimes it is necessary to hold back by ,q;ates a portion of the water, during- a wet season, to prevent too great an oxerflow; thus inundating the lower lands of Melrose. This charming , little waterfall, picturesquely situated in a deep gorge, easily reached, is about ten feet high, and directly over it is a rustic bridge, the view from which is wild and romantic. Thus by the action of the State in taking Spot Pond into the Metropolitan Water S>'stem, enlarging and beautifying it as it has, has Ijeen added another attraction to the scenery of Melrose, which had ceased to exist after the taking of Spot Pond for the supply of water for Maiden, Medford and Melrose. West Hill, erstwhile called " \'inton Hill," then "High Rock," situated in the northwest corner of Melrose, near the Stoneham and Wakefield line, easily accessible from P'ranklin Street, atTords another \-iew of this charming scener}'; more far-reaching than either Boston Rock or Black Rock, but not more extensi\'e than that from Mount Hood, although differing from that somewhat. From this summit is obtainod by far the i)est \iew oi our own Melrose, as it embraces the city in all its \-arious parts, with the exception of the western portion of Wyoming, which is hidden by the interxening Sewall Woods Park; all its hills and \alleys; its churches, public buildings and dwellings from the extreme southerly part at the I^Ydls to the Melrose Highlands in the north, including P^ordell and Columbus Parks, and the settlement of (ireenwood, in Wakc^field, just beyond. And riijht here 1 venture the assertion that but TERRITORY. 29 comparatively few of our thirteen thousand inhabitants ever availed themselves of the beaut>' and ma;j;nificence of this exquisite view, afforded them from this eminence existin.L,^ in their very midst, so easily reached, and with so little exertion! Mt. Zion, in the extreme northeast, and Pine Hill in the east, are minor summits, affording a less extentled view than those already mentioned; thus is our residential valley centre completely surrounded by elevations from which so much can be seen. One more >'et remains to be spoken of; Barrett Mount, situated in the westerly centre of the city. From this you not onl.\' i^et a distant view -down the valley, but a near overlook of the whole cit\', in all directions; nestled in the valley and climbing the hillsides are the resi- dences of our busy population; church spires and public buildings; and in the very centre lies Ell Pond, with the recently purchased land for park purposes on its northerh- side, and many handsome residences on its immediate border." Ell Pond is the largest body of water within the bounds of Melrose. It contains about 30 acres, and was so named from its shape. It was thus known as early as 1638, in the Charles- town records. In legal documents it has been variously spelled as Ell, P^le, Eel and L; the different spelling proba- bly arising from a misapprehension of the sound. In 1648, say the Charlestown records: " Robt. Hale and Thomas Lynde were ordered to ' lay out \-ong Thomas Coitmores twoo lotts by Ell pond.'" In the inventory of the widow Martha Coytmore's estate, made in 1648, appears the item: "150 acres land at ell pond;" and when the road from Winnissemit to Reading was laid out in 1653, it was called the same. Thus earl>- known and named let us reverence and continue the old name and not try to change it for something a little more mellifluous, possilily. As early as 1663, a dam was l)uilt at the outlet of Ell Pond, " Nestling withiu an embrace of hills of unusual attractiveness, in their native ruggeduess and shaded slopes, lives one portion of the town, while on many a command- ing site are pleasant homes which sweep at a glance the country round, including lake and wood, peaceful plain and shaded hilltop, inland stream and ocean wave. — the church spire, the school house and the town house — exhibiting at one view the beauty which adorns your prosperity and the enterprise which evidences your appreciatiou of opportunities. Address of George F. Stone, at the dedication of the Town Hall, June 17. 1S73. MSS. 30 HISTORY OF MELROSE. by Samuel Howard, whose dwelling was nearby, and a saw- mill erected. A dense forest of large cedar trees once existed on the north side of the pond. Fifty }'ears later it would seem that the surrounding timber had been so exhausted that the mill had been converted into a grist or cornmill, as it is thus referred to in a deed from Jonathan Howard to Samuel Howard, wheelwright, dated Jan. 8, 1721. In this pond both shad and alewives used to be taken in large numbers giving food to the earlier inhabitants. Fish ladders were formerly made at the mill-dams on the brooks below, to enable the fish to reach the pond; and when the mill-owners came to make opposition to this method, it is said that the fish were carried to the pond in tubs of water. Rev. S. Osgood Wright, in his discourse at Maiden, Dec. I, 1831, states that much excitement has prevailed at different periods in the town, since 1695. concerning the passage of alewives from the tide-water up to Ell Pond, in the north part of the town. Much time and money have been expended upon this subject, to little or no purpose. i- The water is not as high now as formerl}'; the time has been when it flowed up towards the Highlands quite a distance beyond its present limits. In 1S62, an animated controversy took place among our citizens; one party wishing to lower the water, the other to have it remain as it was. Those in favor of lowering it pre\-ailcd; and in consequence wells became dry, border walls tumbled, and consequent damages were paid by the town. The pond is fed by two or three bro.oks which enter it from the west and north, the prin- cipal one taking its rise in the northwesterly part of the Highlands; and so great is the supply that water is always flowing from its outlet at Main Street, at its southeast corner. An efl'ort was made a few years ago to change the name of this prett)' little sheet of water in the centre of our city, from Ell Pond to Crystal Lake; and this new name has crept into some of the ma})s. But the old one, and many others in our immediate neighborhood. Spot, M)-stic, Horn, Spy, 1- The Alewife fishery was con- late matters. Sometimes the right sidered of considerable importance to fish during the season was sold by the town and committees were to the highest bidder. Letter of chosen from time to time to regu- Deloraine I'. Corey, April 24, 1899. TERRITORY. 31 Long, Swain's, Smith's and Humphrey's, received their names from the early settlers; ours as early as 1638, and frequent mention of it as such, occurs in deeds and records all the \va)' down the centuries; and "succeeding generations have reverenced the first nomination." During the year 1874, the "Crystal Lake Boat Club" was formed ,and a boat-house built near the outlet of the pond on Main Street; and for several seasons rowing and sailing on the pond was \'ery popular, and man>- boat races took place; but like the effort to change the name, now seldom heard in speech, if ever, the club is 710H est; the boat-house stood in ruins for many years, but has now disappeared, and the good old name remains. The other ponds within our borders are .Swain's, Bennett's, and Long Pond. Until within a few years, a small bod_\' of water, known as Dix Pond, existed in the rear of City Hall. It has now been filled up and is no longer one of the ponds which contributed to our first name, " Pond Feilde." Swain's Pond, so known in the Maiden records as early as 1695, containing an area of sixteen acres, is in the south part of the town, and is situated in a wild and secluded region, with but one or two habitations near it, being now used only for ice-cutting purposes. There was once, in days gone by, a saw- mill at its outlet, when the surrounding district IkuI a plentiful suppl)' of timber. ^-^ Long Pond, containing fi\'e acres, is in the southeastern part of the town. Like Swain's, it has been known by that name since 1695; and like both Ell and Swain's Ponds, it once had its sawmill, which was situated near the present Upham Street, on the brow of the hill nearly opposite the residence of John Doherty, and a portion of the pond still exists on the northerly side of the street. From here the brook descends, skirting the romantic cliffs on the right, thence on till it reaches the Saugus River. This sawmill is referred to in a deed of 1783, from John Flagg to John Edmunds, the Revo- lutionar}' soldier, conveying the old I^lnathan ]h-eeden house ^^ The site of the mill of John days of its builder; and uii the Grover could be found in 1894, iu west side of the brook the shape the meadow on the easterly side of and size of the little mill could be Swain's Pond Avenue, near its traced. Qorey, //is/ory o/J/ii/i/cn, junction with Lebanon street. The 447. dam was then as distinct as in the 32 HISTORY OF MELROSE. and land, situated on the old Saugus and Lynn road, on the present Parker estate, wherein liberty was granted to the owners of the mill, which was near these premises, to flow a part of «aid land from December i to April lo, in each year. The mill and the house have long since disappeared. In this neighborhood, a little to the east, there was once a house belonging to a family b}' the name of Herring; but that also is a thing of the past; nothing but the cellar-hole remains. What was known as Cowen's dam, the site of which is a con- tinuation of Waverley Avenue, reaching from the residence of Frank H. Brown to the road leading to Andrew J. Burnett's homestead, was built to overflow the large meadow at the west of the Pond, thus giving more power to the mill pri\ilege. Another outlet to Long Pond was an artificial one, made at its eastern end, by a sluice-wa\' built by Frederick Tudor, in the beginning of the nineteenth centur)^, and who also built and. lived in what is now the Saugus Poor House. This outlet was made for the purpose of aiding the overflow of the meadows at the south of his residence. Here- was cut in a primitive way, for commercial purposes, " the first ice, which was teamed to Charlestown, loaded and exported to the West Indies, where it was sold for twenty-five cents per pound. "^-^ John Edmunds was one of the workmen at this time. A iVIelrose pond thus furnished the water for the ice, which was here first cut, and first exported by the pioneers in that business, the Tudors. Bennett's Pond is a small one situated in the northeast part of the town, and is now only utilized for the cutting of ice. Its outlet is one of the tributaries of the Saugus River. Like all of the other ponds, it once had its dam for mill purposes. A gristmill was built by Robert Gerry in i8i6, who then bought of Jonas Green, for $25.00, the pri\ilege of flowing an adjoining pasture to a certain height. This mill was burned nearh' half a century ago. South of this pond, in the field, about a third of the way between it antl Porter Street, there exists an old cellar-hole, where once stood the house of Samuel Green. During the Battle of Bunker Hill, !■* William Tudor, [agent of his Bay to cut ice from the ice-bergs, brother Frederick] who supplied Edward Everett Hale, in James ice to the tropics, and when a Russell Lozvell and His Friends, winter failed him in New England, p. 264. sent his schooners up into Baffin's TERRITORY. 33 his wife Hannah, was so friohtene.d at hearinsj the reports of the cannonade, that she died in convulsions. Possibly a hus- band, son or relative had gone thither to participate in the fight ! Up to within a few years there existed on Franklin Street, at the Highlands, a pretty little sheet of water, fringed with large and handsome willows, known as High- land Pond. Hut the stream which entered it, on its way to Ell Pond, has been di\'erted, the pond drained, its bed filled, and all signs of its former existence have disappeared; and a portion of its site is now occupied b)' the old church building, which stood on the opposite side of the street, where now stands the new and handsome edifice of the Highland Con- gregational Church. This old building was bought b\' the Shepard ^Manufacturing Company, which carries on a large silver-ware business therein. Spot Pond is not within the limits of Melrose, but lies so close to its border, and has been so closely connected with its history that it deserves mention here. It is a most beautiful sheet of water, .situated among the higher lands of Stoneham and Medford. The surrounding country is mostly wild and wooded; but there are a few fine residences on its border, with the "Langwood Hotel" charmingly situated on an eminence, overlooking the pond.^'^ This view was taken from "Saddleback Hill," near "C)ld Pepe's Cove," in 1S76, and shows the pond as it appeared when supplying the three municipalities of Maiden, Medford and Melrose with water, the history of which is given under " Spot Pond Water Works." ^'^ Spot Pond is first mentioned by Governor John Winthrop in his Journal, under date of February 7, 1632. He sa\^s: The governour, Mr. Nowell, Mr. Eliot, and others, went over Mistick River at Medford, and going N. and by E. among the rocks about two or three miles, they came to a very great pond, having in the midst an island of about an acre, and very thick with trees of pine and beach ; and the pond had divers small rocks, standing up here and there in it, '■' Tlie " Laucjwood " was burned April I, 1902. The origiual stone mansion to which additions had been made for hotel purposes, is to be restored and used for a sani- tarium, by Dr. Charles H. Coggs- well, the present owner. "' Reproduced from a photograph by Charles E. Swaiu. the negative being owned by Frank. E. Wootl- ward, of Maiden. 34 HISTORY OF MELROSE. which the}- therefore called Spot Pond. The}- went all about it upon the ice. From thence (towards the N. W. about half a mile,) the}- came to the top of a very high rock, beneath which, (towards the N.) lies a goodly plain, part open land, and part woody, from whence there is a fair prospect, but it being then close and rainy, they could see but a small distance. This place they called Cheese Rock, [now Bear Hill, with its observatory,] because, when they went to eat somewhat, they had only cheese, (the governor's man forgetting, for haste, to put up some bread.) From that day to this the pond has borne the name then gi\-en it. "Succeeding generations iiave reverenced the first nomination." " Spott pond," with its island, appears on a map of this part of New England, in \\'illiam Wood's Nczv Englands Prospect, which was published two }-ears later, in 1634. A thrilling tragedy, the murder of David Gould, occurred Nov. 25, 1819, in the Gould homestead, then standing on the Stoneham road, now Pond Street, only a little distance from the border of the pond. The inevitable saw-mill once existed at the pond's outlet, long a thing of the past, which was built b}- James Barrett, in 1706. The accompanying repro- duction is. from a sketch b}- Hannah L}'nde in 1844. The house was built before 1700, was torn down in 1 850, and was the home of Jacob Gould and his two sons, all three GOULD HOMESTEAD. minute-meniu Capt. Samuel Sprague's Compan)^ at Lexington. The house pillaged and son Da\-id murdered as above. Spot Fond has now been taken into the great Metropolitan Water System, and has become a storage and distributing reser\-oir, and is under the jurisdiction of the Metropolitan Water and Sewerage Board. To prepare the Pond for this purpose, the State, through the Metropolitan Water Board, before its consolidation with the Board of Metropolitan Sewer- age Commissioners, in 1901, expended ^the sum of $541,474.36, in ^^draining, cleaning, excavating,] and enlarging; in gate- TERRITORY. 35 houses, and the draining of Doleful Pond and Dark Hollow- Pond into Spot Pond Brook. ^" Spot Pond has been raised to a minimum depth of fifteen feet, and when full has an area of 326 acres; and will have a level of twenty-nine feet above that of Chestnut Hill reservoir. In its enlargement its former beauty has been greatly enhanced. SPOT POND— 1002. Showiug Old Pepe's Cove, Pond Street, Saddleback Hill, with "Cheese Rock," now Bear Hill, in the distance. Ell Pond Brook, the outlet of that poiul, runs through the centre of the town as far as Wyoming, where it is joined by the Spot Pond Brook, the former outlet of Spot Pond, but now of Doleful and Dark Hollow Ponds, and a little lower down the valley "Shilly-Shall>- Brook," from the neighboring cas- cade, unites its waters thereto. These brooks, thus united, continue on through Melrose and Maiden, flowing into ami forming the Maiden River; the "Three M>-le Brooke" of " \-^- olden time." Another brook in the northeastern part of the cit\- runs into Bennett's Pond. Melrose is divided into several tlistinct villages, or settle- 1' Considerable damage has Ijeeu our citizens brought suit on this caused to owners of lauds abutting account against the Coniniouweallh on Spot Pond Brook, from the and recovered 5109.56, 527.39 and drainage of these two ponds, by an I100.79, a total of 5237.74, besides extra overflow of water ; three of interest and costs. 36 HISTORY OF MELROSE. ments: the Middlesex Fells, — generally shortened into Fells, — and Wyoming in the southern part of the city; the Centre; the Melrose Highlands, in the north, — each of these having a station on the Boston and Maine Railroad; — Norrisville in the northeast; and East Side. These two are reached by the electric cars of the Lynn and Boston Street Railway Com- pany; the main line of which, through the centre of the city, running from Chelsea to Woburn, superceded the Maiden and Melrose Horse Railroad in 1892, and the East Side branch commenced running in 1897. These lines are now met by the Wakefield Railway Com- pany, at the junction of Main, Franklin and Green Streets, which runs through Main Street to Greenwood and Wakefield, and thence on to other connections. Many different lines of street railroads have now been consolidated under the name of the Boston and Northern Street Railway Company. ' Our name, Melrose, was adopted by the advocacy of the late William Bogle, a natixe of Glasgow, Scotland, who had been a resident several years before our incorporation, and before the Boston and Maine Railroad was built, in 1845, ^"^1 when he had to go back and forth to his business in Boston by the stage-coach line which ran between Boston and Reading; and which was established in 1798. Mr. Bogle evidently had at least two objects in x'\<t\\ in offering us our name: one, a sweet sounding one, that had not been in common use, we being the first to adopt it in our country; an- other, as a memorv' of his nati\e land.^'^ ^* The uanie was adopted by a couimittee, consistiug of the late Hou. Daniel W. Gooch, William Bogle, David L. Webster and Johu vSheltou, which met at Mr. .Shel- tou's house, No. 75 Lake Aveuue. In this connection an extract from Mr. Bogle's will, dated Dec. ID, 1890, is of interest as showing his interest in Melrose, and indicat- ing a future possible benefit to be derived by the Melrose Public Library. Items. " Should all my children die, leaving no issue of mine surviving, or should all issue of mine die before mj' youngest living grandchild arrives at the age of twenty-one years, then said Trustees shall pay, make over, and convey the whole of said Trust Fund, whether consisting of real estate, or personal property, or both, to the Town of Melrose, a municipal corporation in said Massachusetts, and to which the testator gave the name of Melrose, to which Town of Melrose under the circumstances above named to occur, I give, devise and bequeath said Trust h'und, whether consist- TERRITORY. 37 The derivation of the Scottish Melrose is variously defined by different authorities. The Gazetteer of Scotland gives its meaning as follows: from either the Irish " Moal Ross" — a bold promontory, or from the British "Mell Ross" — a projec- tion of meadow. Sharp's Gazetteer of the British Is/amis, has it "Moel" or "Mull Rhos " — a point. The late Prof. Herbert B. Adams, in a letter to the writer says: Johns Hopkins University, Baltimore, Feb. 14, 1883. Dear Sir : — I have taken my first leisure to find out the origin of the name Melrose. At the Peabody Library I looked in vain through a dozen or more books of names of places. But at last I think I have struck the truth. The word Melrose is Gaelic. It has nothing what- ever to do with the Latin Mel and Rosa, as one might suppose. It comes from the Gaelic Maol meaning " the brow of a rock; a cape or promontory," (see Macleod and Dewar's Dictionary of the Gaelic Language), and from Ros, signifying "a promontory; an isthmus, a peninsular," (see same Dictionary.) The two words together appear to mean a headland, or highland projecting into water. Considering the fact that " Old Melrose " stood upon a promontory upon the south bank of the Tweed, two miles below the modern Abbey, the above etymology would seem to cover the. ground. This \iew is further substantiated by the Latin name of the old cloister annals "Chronica de Mailros," (731-1275 A. D.) If the word Melrose had any connec- tion with the Latin Mel, this form Mailros would be inexplicable. I have seen the form Moel used in the same sense as Maol. In all probability the rocky island of Mull, which ^^'illiam Black has made so interesting in his novels, derived its name from the same physical idea of a promontory as may be seen in the geography of " Old Melrose." Verj' cordially yours, Herbert B. Adams. iiig of real estate or persoual by said Towu of Melrose to the property, or both, the same to be Scots Charitable Society of Boston, held by said town, as a perpetual Massachusetts, for the general uses Trust Fund, and to be called the and purposes of said society ; al- Bogle Fund, to invest the same and ways giving to said towu all and keep the same invested as a Trust the same powers from time to time Fund, and collect the income and to sell any or all property, real or profits thereof and therefrom, and persoual, at any time coustituting pay quarterly one-half of the net a part or the whole of said Trust income thereof to and for the uses Fund as is hereinafter given to of the Public Library of said town, my Trustees, and the right to rein- to be expended yearly in aid of vest the proceeds of such sales in said Public Library of the said such manner as said towu shall Town of Melrose, the other half of deem best and determine." said net income to be paid yearly 38 HISTORY OF MELROSE. John Bower, in his Description of the Abbeys of Melrose ; mid old Melrose, zvith their Traditions, confirms Prof. Adams' view: Old Melrose, or Malerose, which is a mile and a half from Melrose Abbey to the east, was originally called Mull-ross, signifying a bare promintory, Ross, in the ancient language, signifying a peninsular, and Mull, bare. But in his description of the ruined Abbey, he gives a more poetic signification: Upon the other buttress is a pedestal, supported by the thistle, having the mallet and rose upon the shield, for Melrose, of which the derivation may be this — the mell is intended to represent the instrument by which this beautiful fabric was erected; and b}^ the rose, which signifies sweet, it maj- well be termed sweet and pleasant to the eye, for the lightness and elegance with which it is finished. The earliest local name applied to our territory, before it came to be known as " Maiden North End," and " North Mai- den," was "Pond Field;" so called when describing the posses- sions of Ralph and Richard Sprague, around Ell Pond, in the Charlestoivn Book of Possessions, 1638; it is there written " Pond feilde." Although Melrose is one of the younger municipalities of this Commonwealth, its territory had been occupied, at the time of its incorporation, for a period of o\-er two hundred years. There are at least seven families whose ancestors made their abode in this beautiful valley, a part of them nearly, and a part o\'er two centuries and a half ago. These are the Spragues, the Greens, the Barretts, the Lyndes, the Uphams, the Vintons and the How^ards. Descendants of all of them are among its citizens today. These early settlers left their homes, man}' of them from over the sea, and came into this then unsettled wilderness, in- habited only b}' the wild Indian, and still wilder beasts, and amid trials and sufferings, built their homesteads and founded their families. Long, cold and dreary winters must have been theirs. No sound of church bell greeted their ears, summon- ing them to the worship of God. Many were the deprix'ations experienced, many the hardships endured. Today we realize only to a limited degree what these hardy pioneers passed through.^-' But they possessed noble spirits, persevering and 1'' They were possessed of iron met those early dangers with corn- wills and iron nerve ; and they posure ; their life of privation and TERRITORY. 39 upri.cjht characters. They came determined to succeed, and succeed they did. Would that we had a minute chronicle of man\' of the events that took place in the lixcs of these early settlers of Melrose. A few \-ears arjo, many of the past crcner- ation were living^, who could have related much pertaininfj to the earU- histor\' of the town, which the>- had received from their ancestors. But they have passed away, and with them man^• local incidents, events and anecdotes that would now be interestini;-, and which thc\- could have rehearsed, are no longer attainable. In those earl\' da>-s, besides the prowling- and savage Indian, our surrounding forests, many of which have not >-et wholly disappeared, were full of wild animals; wolves, deer, bears, foxes, and wildcats. So plentiful were the;\' that laws were passed concerning them, and bounties offered to aid in the extermination of the most obnoxious and destructive of them. A law was passed by the Colony, in 1630, giving bounty for the killing of wolves; one in 1635 for wolves and foxes; and in 1640, the following law was passed: Ordered, that every man that kills a wolfe w''' hounds shall have 40s alowed him. & whosoever kils a wolfe w^'^ trap, peece, or other engine, shall have lo^ alowed him, to bee paid by that towne where the wolfe is killed, & if hee bee kiled out of any towne bounds it shall bee paid by the Treasurer. Wood, in Xeiv Englands Prospect, speaks of the "three great a.nno\-ances, of wolves, rattle-snakes and mosquitoes." The former were nightly visitors among the unprotected herds and flocks. In the time of deep snows they hung around the settlements in great packs, and their fierce barking was a terror to man as well as beast. They infested the Saugus woods as late as 1753 and were not entirely extirpated until many years after. Bounties were offered for their scalps, and the grisly trophies were sometimes nailed on the meeting-houses. " For Beares," says Wood, " they be common being a great blacke kind of Beare, which be most feirce in Strawberry time." They are said to have been seen in Maiden woods within this century, and they yet prowl along sequestered roads in the traditions of old families.-'^ hardship ami toil, was encountered lives were yielded a willing sacri- with cheerfulness for the praise- fice to the cause of freedom. MSS. worthy object of securing; for them- of Artemas Barrett, selves and their posterity, civil .„ (j^^ey, History of Maiden. 25. and religious liberty ; and their 40 HISTORY OF MELROSE. In 1669, wolves had become so plentiful and destructive that our neighboring town of Reading ordered " that a bounty of twenty shillings be offered for e\-ery wolf killed in Reading for the ensuing seven years; " and in 1685, a "bount}' of 15s. for the killing of an old bear, and los. for the killing of a sucking cub." Charlestown offered a bounty of lO shillings for each wolf killed. In 1687, Samuel Sprague, Jr., of Maiden, was paid forty shillings for killing two grown wolves. The same year the records of Reading state that the town paid James Stimpson 1 5^ shillings for killing an old bear ; paid John Eaton of ye plain, and some others, 2 £. for killing three young bears; paid John Upton, Jr., George Flint, and Steven Fish for killing one old bear and two young ones, i ;^. & i 5 shillings; and paid Richard Harnden i 3 shillings for killing one old bear. In 1631, when Go\-. John Winthrop was at his Ten Hill farm, he entered the following item in his Journal : Oct. 1 1 . The governour, being at his farm house at Mistick walked out after supper, and took a piece in his hand, supposing he might see a wolf, (for they came dail}- about the house, and killed swine and calves, etc.) This pro\"ed quite an acK'cnture. It grew suddenl}- dark, he mistook his path, and coming across the empty little house of Sagamore John, passed the night therein; "Sometimes walking b}' the fire, sometimes singing psalms, and sometimes getting wood, but could not sleep;" meanwhile his serwints " ha\ing been much perplexed for him, and having walked about, and shot off pieces, and hallooed in the night, but he heard them not." Concerning the topographical features of our territory, geologists ha\'e made the statement that the Merrimack River once flowed through this \alley to the sea; but that by some uphea\al of nature its course was changed to its present channel. Had that been so, and such a chanoe had not taken place, how different would ha\e been the his- tcjry of this regicni. I^ut such is not the case. In ])lace of a wide flowing ri\'er occupying nearl\' all of the le\el lands, we have the City of Melrose, most l)eautfully situated, with its charming and di\'ersified scenery, of \-alley, hill and wild- wood. CHAPTER III. ROADS, STREETS AND HIGHWAYS. THE first roatl, and the only one for many years which passed through Melrose, was laid out by order of the General Court, two hundred and fort}'-nine years ago, at a session held Sept. lo, 1653. Some of the names of persons and places herein mentioned will be recognized as belonging to Melrose: Thomas Marshall, John Smyth, & John Sprague. beinge chosen to la}' out the country highway betweene Reddinge & \\'inneseinett, [Chelsea,] do lay it out as follows: from Reddinge towne, through Maldon bounds, betwixt] the pond cSc John Smyths land. [Smith's Pond, in Wakefield; Maiden bounds extended thus far until what is now Greenwood was set off in 1727 to Reading,] & so by the east sicfe of M' Joseph Hills land, to New Hockley Hole, & so in the old way by the Cow Pen, [jDrobably in our present Highlands,] & thence along on the east side of Thomas Co3'tmores lott, by Ele Pond, in the old way, to Thomas Lynds land, then through the first tield, & so by the field by his howse.from thence, on the old way. by Maldon meeting howse, through the stony swampe, from the road there vpp betwixt Richard JAddams & John Uphams lottes, into Charlestowne bounds, through \\'"i Johnsons & Richard Dexters land into y^ way by the South Springe, & so on the south side of Tho W'hitamores howse into Mr Bellinghams land, [Governor Bellingham] into the way that goeth to the fferr)-; the sd way to be fower pole broade, in good ground. & six or eight where need recjuires.' A report had been previously submitted, " V'^ act of which comissioners the Court appro\-ed of." on June 30, 1653, by this same committee wherein the>' recommended substantially this same route beginning their report as follows. Wee, whose names are vnderwritten, being legally chosen by our towns, by virtue of a Court order, to lay out the countrie way betwixt Redding and Winnesemett, and ha\ing vejwed the sajd wajes, wee aphend it most con\enjent to be as followes. ' Mass. ColotiY Rrcoids. iii. 330. 42 HISTORY OF MELROSE. In this preliminary report our Pond is rightly spelled " Ell," instead of " Ele." Both documents show that Maiden had a meeting-house as early as four >-ears after its incorporation, in 1653. " The old way," so often referred to, means the old, crooked, de\"ious Indian or bridle path, or trail, in use before this date, winding hither and thither, going around this hill, shunning that swamp or bog, and o\-er which the traveller wended his way between Chelsea and Reading. Some parts of this old original road are being tra\-ersed b\' the streets of today; but a large part is discontinued, although traces of it in some places, particularh- in Melrose, are quite distinct. Several attempts to lay out this road had been previously made. The first one was by the town of Charlestown, when action was taken to build a road from Mystic Side up by Wayte's Mount, through the " Commons," and beyond Ell Pond; and the following committee was appointed: [24. 12. 1644/3.] It is agreed y^ The: Line, Robt Hale & The: Pearce should lay out A convenient Highway on Mistickside from y^ Woods to the head of the North River & to allow for ye Highway & to bound the Meadows from ye Mount to Ell Pond, & to allow them ye Highway in bound- ing ye Meadow.- But May 26, 1647, ^'""^ General Court took action, and Lieut. Ralph Sprague and Francis Smith were appointed "to lay out y^ way fro'" W'innetsemet to Reading." This was a part of a general plan by which a continuous highway was opened to the settlements in New Hampshire, passing through Reading, Andover, and Haverhill; and its survey brought forth the first of that long series of humble petitions in which are preserved much of the history of Mystic Side and Maiden.^ In 1648, fi\e years before the road was finally established in 1653, it had been laid out in such a manner as to meet with opposition from the residents of Mystic Side and others, which seems to ha\-e been successful, and Ensign Thomas Lynde and Joseph Hills were added to act with the committee in select- ing a new route for this road, as will be seen b\- the following- petition: 16=3=48= To the HoiPd Court. The humble peticon of seu'el the Inhabitants of Mestick side & others Jn Charles Towne. May Jt please you to und''stand. that there '-' Charlestoivn Archives, xx., in ' Qorey, History of Ma/den, (^5. loco. ROADS. STREETS AND HIGHWAYS. 43 hath beene lately layd out A highway from wineseiiiet to Redding by Appointment of the gen^ll court, whose orders in all things, wee most willingly as dutie binds vs submit vnto, Assuring ourselves that their principall Ayme is the publ. good : wd' vnder fauour we conC is not consistent w'^ the Lying of that way as now it is done = soe that it thwarts neere twentie small Lotts & Allso many other Lotts = w^h if by means thereof, the owners be forced to fence out the way A great part of the Land must be sould to make the fence, the owners being many of them pore & not able to beare the charge thereof, some of them hauing foure fences AUreadie Against coiiion & highway ground, W'herefore o"" humble request is that the said Act may be recalled & that the way vnto wenesemet from Redding may be in the highway Leading toward the penie ferrie, vnto the house of James Barritt & so by the towne way leading directly vnto winesemet. Lying on the head of the fine Acre Lotts. by the South-spring, w^h is Allso A playne, firme. trodd way & but lit'le about, the w^i^ they now stand charged to fence Against & cannot secure their planting without it. So shall wee be bound to pray as wee desire dayly to doe for ye psptie & peace temporall & Eternall. J*? Greexland RiCH^ Dexter Francis Wheeler George Ffelt. In th name of the rest. The mag"- consider it meet (\vh Reference to the Concurrence of it with the Deptys) that Tho=Line & Mr Jos=Hills may be ioyned wh the former Comittee to take a new survey of the most convenient place for the way in the petition mentioned. l\: to make certifi- cate to the Court of their ^^P * ^ ^ j 9> apprehensions therebout. yO\ii/l^tyC /Ccrh * ^0^\r^ The Dept'.e? Consent to o^ hono''d magists in answer to this pet= W'M Torrev by order ^^ !^. ■* The committee thus enlarg-ed made report to the General Court. May 9, 1649: Mr Joseph Hill, Leff Sprauge, Tho Lyne, ^: Frauncis Smith, as a comittee, bringing in their retourne of a highway laid out by them from Redding to Winisemett, information was given that this was lesse behoofefuU to y^ country then the fornV ; wherevpon the Courte, considering y' it is and willbe of great concernement to the publicke that the best high wayes be layd out from toune to toune for publicke vse, wch concernes posterity aswell as ourselves, and that no private interest should hinder it. have ordered, that M"' Cleoments. John ■* Mass. Archives, cxxi, 21. 44 HISTORY OF MELROSE. Osgood, and Frauncis Smith, as a comittee, shall have power to lay- out the most convenient way for a countr}- roade between e Redding and Winnisemett.5 But for some reason this committee did not perform this duty; the road still remained undesignated; and the following- order was passed Ma}- 31, 1652 : Whereas this Court did long since appoint sundry psons to lay out the way from Reding to \Mnesemett, which is not 3-et determined, & some of the psons mentioned in the sd order are dead, and forasmuch as it was ordered by Cambridge Court, that it should forthwith be done by the townes of Redding & Maiden, it is now ordered by this Court, that the laying out of the sd highway shalbe clone by the townes of Redding & Maiden, according to the law in that case provided, any act of this Court to the contrary notw^'standing/^ Then, as we have seen, but not until over a \'ear and three months had passed, the ne\\- committee consisting of Thomas Marshall, John Smyth and John Sprague, laid out the long contemplated road in a manner apparently- satisfactor\- to all concerned. The \'arious windings of this original road through Melrose may be traced as follows: Beginning at the boundary line between Wakefield and Melrose, it followed the present Main Street a short distance, crossing it twice, and lea\'ing it just before reaching the brow of Reading Hill on the easterly side; thence in the rear of the residence of the late Asa Church, and of the new houses recenth' built and parallel with the present Main street to Green street, a portion of the road being still clearly defined; thence through the whole length of Green Street, b}- the eastern end of Ell Pond, through Lebanon Street as far as Louisburg Square, where still stands the old John Lynde mansion, but now \\'ithout its once umbrageous elm; then down L}-nde Street to near where the "Dolly Upham " house now stands, when it left that street and skirted along che east side of Boston Rock, following somewhat nearly the course of the present Lin- wood Avenue, almost to Sylvan Street, crossing the field just before reaching the h'ltter street; a short section of this cross-cut is still preser\-ed, although the new stone-crusher, established in 1897, ^i^s nearly crushed it out of existence; thence diagonally across Wyoming Cemetery to its south- ^ Mass. Colony Records, iii, 159. '■ iMass. Colony Records, iii, 274. ROADS, STREETS AND HIGHWAYS. 45 west corner; thence over hill and dale, through the woods, by the Forest Dale Cemetery, to Forest Street; entering that street near the old Jacob Pratt house; thence it followed the old " Salem Path " to the present Main Street, skirting Wayte's Mount, which has been known as " Mount Pros- pect," and "Captain's Hill." That part of the old road from Wyoming Cemetery to Forest Street was remarkably well preserved and clearly defined, easily driven over, showing the wheel-rut abrasion of the old-time usage ver\- distinctly, until the time when the Lynde farm was bought by Hon. Elisha S. Converse, and the Forest Dale Cemetery established in Maiden; then the new road which was built between the two cemeteries entirely obliterated all traces of the old road of 1653. The original Ensign Thomns Lynde farm was large, em- bracing what is now the \\'}-oming Cemetery, Pine Banks Park, and extended to and be\ond Forest Street; and this portion was referred to in the order la)-ing out the road in 1653; and in 1695, ^vhen the " Commons " were divided, his son Joseph Lynde, lived on Forest Street, and his house and land were exempted b>- the committee in the division of those lands, as per report in Maiden records of March 26, 1694, and as given on page 17.' Parts of the old road in Maiden, Everett and Chelsea still exist; sections of Madison, Forest and ]\L-\in Streets in Maiden, Buckman and Chelsea Streets in Everett, and Washington Avenue in Chelsea traverse portions of it. In the course of time, as will be seen by the following peti- tion of Ensign Thomas Lynde, a part of the road running through Melrose, just described, was somewhat changed: To the Hoiior'i County Court at Charts Tounic. 20. 4: 71 [April 20, 1 671] The petition of Thomas Lynde of Maiden Humbly showeth : That whereas formerly a certaine Highway for the Countrj's use was laid out through a helde of mine commonly called my further field which if so continued and made use of will be very prejudicial to my self and posf'y by reason I have so litle land Improveable to corne. And inasmuch as there may be a way w'ht [without] my said fielde " This house was built by Deacon preseut Pratt house built near the Thomas Lynde for his son Joseph. entrance to Forest Dale Cemetery. It was demolished in 1S28, and the Corey, History of Maiden, 368. 46 HISTORY OF MELROSE. in 1115- other land but a few poles difference and which for several 3'ears haue been made use of both b}' the Town and Countrj- M}' Humble request to this Honor^ Court is that the said wa}^ may be altered : to which end if this Court please the Towns mostly concerned may be ordered to choose such persons amongst themselves as they judge meet to reveiw the said way & having respect to the Countrys conven- iency and saffty with }'Our petitioners and Towns concerne therein and to make return to this Court that they may determine therein as in there wisdoms they shall judge meet. And your petitioner shall be bound to pray &c. Thomas Lvnde. ^^af^cu^ -^ ^ ^*>.r*/c^ "t^ <^*-f C^^S >z^4- r<rt^^ C/U^ ^^ *^^a*«reX 4^ <g/^'' rrx^y ^OL^ u/«^ <*Afp- "99*^ ^^ y**^ "" ***/ *^ii^ ■^^'^f*^ ^<^ «*- iL c^t^j^ ^Aff^i ^^j^ iy^y-^ «f^ FACSIMILE OF THK ORIGINAL PETITION FOR CHANGE OF ROAD, DATED APRIL 20, 1671. ROADS. STREETS AND HIGHWAYS. 47 That this petition was successful, and the road changed is made evident by the fact that the Court appointed "John Greene, Josiah Convers and Joatham Poole" to view the premises "against Thomas L>'nds Land in Maulden" and that they "settled the same to pass under the Rock where it now lyeth"and that the Court accepted and approved; and from that time, instead of continuing on the east side of. Boston Rock, as formerly, it left the present Lebanon Street, at the junction of Grove, passing through L\-nde Street, by the " Dolly Upham " house to the foot of Summer Street; ( Lynde Street, as now known, was not extended through to Main Street until 1857;) thence through Summer Street to Main to where Masonic Hall now stands; leaving Main Street soon after, it crossed the present Mount Vernon Street east of the "great rock" referred to later, and the houses of Edwin S. Small and others, continuing on between the present homesteads of Henry and the late D. Alvin Lynde, and on close beside the foot of Boston Rock, a portion of which road still exists, but unused, across the meadow in front of the Ensign Thomas Lynde house, then retentl>' built, and on through the Pine Banks Park to the old road again to Poorest Street, as ori«>-- inally laid out. It is almost impossible to obtain exact information as to some of the earl\- roads. Many changes were made as time went on, and where first a road was travelled, after abandon- ment, and a new one utilized, the old became obliterated from disuse. On a plan of Maiden, surve3-ed by Peter Tufts. Jr., of Mi'd- ford, in 1795, b\' authority- of a resoKe j)asse(l by the General Court in 1794, thf only roads hu\l down in what was then North Maiden, are, the main road as last described, called the "Reading Road," now ALiin Street, and the"Stoneham Road," which left this near where our Masonic Hall stands, and fol- lowed what is now our VVj'oming A\enue, Hurd. Cottage, P^oster and \'inton Streets, to the old count\- road leatling to Stoneham. now Franklin Street. This "Stoneham Road" had been laid out fi\e yt'ars before, in 1790. At the same time there existed, but not shown on this map, the road running towards the Chelsea line— Chelsea then bounded Maklen on the east,— which isr<j\\ out of the followiiiL;- action: 48 HISTORY OF MELROSE. At a meeting held July 20, 1713, "It was putt to vote whethar ye Town will mend ye way y' Runs from ye country Road neere Sam" Grouars To John \\'ilkinsons between ye Raig of lots. And jt past on ye negitiue." In consequence of this vote, John Upham, Jonathan Barrett, and other inhabitants of the northern portion of the town petitioned the Court for convenient highways from their houses to the meeting house ; and the Court ordered the selectmen " to look to such matters."* Sept. 2g, foilow'ing, it is recorded: 3-t ye select men doe lay out a conuenant high way for Them . . . 2 pols broad on ye northwardly side of That Raing of lots y^^ Runs from John Wilkinsons Land neer his hous down to ye cuntrey Road y*^ leads to Reding. — beginning at ye s'^ wilkinsons land. "This was a confirmation to public uses of one of the rights of wa)' which were laid out between the ranges of common land in 1695." Thus early was the higher land between our present Upham Street, long know as Upham Lane, and Long- Pond, occupied by Wilkinson; and at that time or a little later, came others; among them Herring and Breeden. E\-identh' the road as laid out above to Chelsea (Saugus) line, was not, for many years, utilized only up as far as the Upham houses; for the following vote was passed many years later, laying out a new route for that end of the road: At a Leagal Town Meeting in Maiden Nov"i 29, 1 796, the Town did accept of the Report of their Committe chosen to Consider of the Expedience of laying out a Road from Maiden to Chelsea line which was that the Select Men Lay out a Road so as to accommodate M^ Jesse Upham & M'' John Edmunds in the Best Manner they can & Aprise the Damages. True Copy of the Record. Attest : Ebenr Harnden, Town Cler Maiden April 21*1 1801. This road left Upham Street turning to the south just beyond the present Parker Farm Houses, and ran up over the hill by the houses then existing, but which have now- disappeared, and on down the hill again, over a still existing earth-bridge, through the woods to the lex'el, striking the Upham Street, as since continued down bv Mr. Uohert\-'s and the romantic ledges, and boulders. — our Palisades. The Breeden house stood not far from where the road turns * Corey, History 0/ iMaldoi, 442. ROADS, STREETS AND HIGHWAYS. 49 to go to the Hood and Wyoming Kennels farms. It was built about 1730. In 1783, John Edmunds, the Revolutionary patriot, and grandfather of the late John Ouincy Adams Avery, bought it, together with twenty acres of land, bounding east on Long Pond, on the outlet of which then existed a saw-mill. Mr. Edmunds died in 1846, aged eighty-nine years; and his grave is in the southern part of Wyoming Cemetery. Soon after his death the old house was burned, and nothing remains but the old cellar-hole, covered by a temporary shed.^ The exact location of the Wilkinson house is not known. Soon after the Upham road was first laid out, action was taken by the town concerning another one, as follows: The select men of maiden mett ye 17. of feb 172"^ And doe alow of ye Two pools jn bredth y' lieth Att y^ south end of the first Raing of ye second Thousand acrs — from boston line to Reding Road To be a Town high-way : The selectmen on the 15'^ day of noV. 1754 opened A town road from m"" James Barrets orchard to Chelsea line between the first and second range of lots in the second division. Although the latter entries are nearly thirty-three years apart in time, they refer to a single way in North Maiden which had existed as one of the rights of way between the ranges, and now became a settled road. It was formerly Barrett's Lane, and is now Porter Street, Melrose. 1^ From Upham 's Lane, there ran another road not shown on this map, which wound up to the end of the present Spear Street, thence down througli the woods, through Mountain Avenue, to the present Lebanon Street; thence northerly to the old Howard homestead, afterwards the Pratt place, now the Poor Farm, and then westerly on to the Wyoming Ceme- tery, joining the old 1653 road which went up over the hill between Wyoming and Forest Dale Cemeteries, through the present "Hillside Terrace" of the Pine Banks Park — east of the "Intervale" — to Poorest Street. This was the way the Howardsand Prattsof that section travelled to Maiden Centre; and the road from Lebanon Street to the cemetery, through the farm, is ver\' clearly defined at the jjresent da\-. ■' John Edinoiuls, Maiden. Cor- 1780. Massac/iusctis Sohiicrs and poral, Lieutenant-Coloners Co., Sailors of the Revolutionary War. Col. Michael Jackson's regt. ; Con- Vol. v., p. 220. tiueutal Army pay acconnts for '^" Corey , History 0/ Mahlen, .\.^. service from Jan. i, 1780 to Feb. r, Eel Vo„J f-.J .1^ THE JiAA" •/ jV1aLI>£\ Surxcy'd jD //^y By T'tc'r Tufh yua ROADS, STREETS AND HIGHWAYS. 51 The various ponds are iiulicated on this map, incliuh'nij the no longer existing Dix, in the rear of the City Hall. A few of the houses then standing are rudely drawn thereon: On the old road, James Green, at the extreme north; Vining's next; then the William Emerson tavern, which "stood near the old well with a narrow cartway between the house and well;"ii William Upham, on the present Lynde Street, opposite the "Dolly Upham" house; Benjamin L)'nde, where now stands Henry Lynde's homestead, and the old Ensign Thomas Lynde House at the Fells, without a name. On the "Stoneham Road " appears the Phineas Sprague house which stood where now stands the residence of the late Mrs. Liberty Bigelow; then Captain Unite Cox, the old " Mountain House;" and last that of John Larrabee. This rude survey is the earliest repre- sentation of the topography of the town of which there is any knowledge. The present course of Main Street is indicated by the dotted lines. The dotted section on the northwest corner shows the portion set off from Stoneham in 1853, and added to the territory of Melrose. Some roads were laid out at the time of the division of "The Commons," mostly in the"Scadan Fells," as will be seen by the following: A committee consisting of Lieutenant Joseph Wilson, Isaac Hill, Lemuel Jenkins and Nathaniel Upiiam. chosen April 9, 1695, niade this report May 8, following: Wee subscribers have done according to the town vote at our under- standing in staking of highwayes in the sheep paster and the three hundred accres namly two poles wide with .stakes blazed one the in- side and pillers of stones at the bottom of them I. as one the neck side from the Spragues Land, up through the neck unto John Greenlands lote in Charlestown bounds [Washington Street. going north from the R. R. bridge in Maiden.] 2ly. A Roade from Joseph Linds house [near " Reed}- Pond " on Forest Street, heretofore described] through the sheep paster to dexters Rockes [the great ledges in the woods between the westerly side of Swain's Pond and Lebanon Street,] then through the lots to the second diuision and from tiie foote of De.xters Rokes nortiieste up Squiers hill through to tiie seckend diuision. 3ly. A Roade from Joseph Hoyds through the sheepe paster antl three hundred accres to Swaines ponde into the seckend diuision. [heretofore referred to as coming from I'pham Lane through Spear Street, and through the woods to I^ebanon Street.] ^^ MSS. letter from his son, Rev. Warren Iviiiersoii. 52 HISTORY OF MELROSE. 4ly. A Roade from Ezekell Jankens a longe in the sheep paster [the territory' east of Wayte's Mt. through which Forest Street runs,] and crossing the Roade that comes up from Joseph floydes. and pasing on towards the O [Round \\'orld ; the territory west of Lebanon Street, in Maplewood, south of the Maiden Poor Farm,] then winding to the left through lots into the seckend diuision. 5ly. A Roade from Leftent Spragues land up through to the Road that comes from Joseph floyds : 61y. A Roade from haywards land branching out to dexters Rockes likewise branching up to Swaines pond brooke [the present Lebanon Street,] and through the lots to the Roade that comes from Joseph floyds : Joseph Willson Samuell Jankens. NATHANELL UPHAM. ISACC HiLL. These roads, with the exception of the first, traversed the Scadan woods, but it is not easy to indicate, only in part, just where. One ran easterly from Swain's Pond Road, near Leba- non Street, over into the Salem Road. Two of the old ways, running from the easterly end of Swain's Pond, are still used to some extent; they lead towards the old road which for- merly ran from the Salem Road to the iron works at Hammer- smith on the Abousett, or Saugus River. The roads which have been described were the only ones laid out for many years; no new ways were granted until after the Revolution. In the earlier days, the scattered and isolated farm houses of the old-time residents west of the " Reading Road," noted on the 1795 map, were reached b}^ various private paths and cart- ways, mostly unnamed. The original manner of reaching IVIalden Centre, from some of these western homes was a path- way which followed about on a line with our present Cleveland Street, crossing Spot Pond Brook, passing Capt. John Lynde's house to what is now Washington Street, thence down by the cliffs and cascade to Maiden; and the " Stoneham Road," pre- vious to the time it was laid out in 1790, had been nothing more than pri\ate ways or paths, from house to house, on the west side of our present Main Street, beginning at the house of Jonathan Howard, Jr., which stood where Masonic Hall now stands, and before which grew a majestic buttonwood tree, well remembered by some now li\ing. One of these ways, which marks the origin of that part of our Main Street from above Island Hill, up along by the side of Pine Banks Park and Hog Island, was the subject of the following Town \-ote March i, 171^: ROADS. STREETS AND HIGHWAYS. 53 That Jose Line has libart)' Granted to him and his haires To Raise the causewaj' y' Lyeth betweene >-« medo foniiarly cap' waits : und y« sd Lines medo so high as to flow y^ s^ lines meddo : and y^ s^ Lines doe obUge him self and his haires To maintain y^ s^ causway in good Repair suficant for both Town and countrey to pass : — so long as they se cause to flow y^ s"? medo Also y« said line has libarty to take earth and grauill on y^ high way on y^ Top of y« hill near y^ s<i caseway for ye ends aboue s^ This way accommodated some of the north end citizens with a "shorter cut" to the centre of the town. These ways, or paths, were in such a condition in the year 1757, as to cause a petition to be drawn up "To the Gentlemen of the Selectmen of the town of Maiden," asking them to lay out a highway from near the house of M^ Jonathan Howard Jun^ [at Masonic Hall] over his land westerly where the path now is that we usually pass on to the Land of phinehas Sprague and so over his land where the path now is near by his house [then on the site of the late Mrs. Liberty Bigelow's house,] to the land of M"" Samuel Sprague also over his land where we usually pass by his house [where L. Frank Hinckley now lives] and where Tho^ pratt ye 3d Dwells to our Land at the Gate near our house. Among the reasons given were: That Said way hath almost always been a Very wet muddy plungj^ and uncomfortable place for passing. Secondly our predecessors & we have been at a Very considerable expence in makeing and Repairing a Considerable Large bridge o\-er Ell pond Brook, said bridge hath usually been a Dangerous place to pass over By Reason of its being Generally out of Repair. . . . Thirdly another Difficulty we Labor under is a Number of uncomfortable Gates we are obliged to pass through the Chief of the year which when our wi\-es ride through although with Children in their amies are obliged to Git Down to open said Gates or Else they are in Danger of their Limbs and Lives too. Other reasons are given, but the conclusion of the petition is as follows: Be So Good as not to Impose taxes on us or dont be uneasy if we wont pay any Rates or if we must pay Rates and not have a Rhode to Go to meeting to mill ^: to market on be So Good as to be willing that we should be Set oft" to another town that will tind us ways. Nevertheless, notwithstanding that these "Estates have been at so much of the cost of ways in the town both in purchasing and Repairing them for other peojjie of tiie town to pass on 54 HISTORY OF MELROSE. for above 70 years," it would seem that this road so earnestly prayed for was not built until a period of over thirty years had gone by, in 1790.^'-^ A little later, a cart road over the present Lynde Street, was in use from the foot of Summer Street to the present Main Street, before the formal laying out and building of the same after the town was incorporated; and such was the case with other streets; Emerson Street, at the time William Emerson built his house on the corner of Main and Emerson Streets, was nothing more than a lane, with bars by his house, through which he drove his cows to pasture, which was situated west of our present central railroad station. Howard Street, was laid out in 1788, and built through to Saugus, thus making a continuous County road from Stone- ham centre to Lynn. Main Street, as it now exists, was laid out in 1806; w^hen finally, the very crooked old road of 1653, and the successive changes that had taken place therein during the intervening years, was made a straight street, excepting a moderate bend at "Island Hill," from Maiden centre to Greenwood, in Wake- field. After this, and until the Boston and Maine Railroad was built and opened in 1845, very little was done in the way of making new streets ; but soon after the town was incorpo- rated, in 1850, many new streets were laid out and built; among them Porter, Emerson, west from Main, Youle, Vinton,^ Myrtle, Walnut and Essex Streets; in 1852, a highway was built " from John Lynde's to Charles Pratt's Gate," now Leba- non Street; John Lynde's was the mansion on the corner of Grove and Lebanon Streets, and Charles Pratt's was our present Poor P'arm; the gate being situated at the top of the hill, at the corner of Forest Street ; not long after this road was con- tinued "from Charles Pratt's Gate to Maiden Line;" then by or before i860, there followed other streets; among them Lynde, ^- vSome years previous to this, private way from Jonatliau How- iu 1751, six residents of North ard's house to that of Phineas Maldeu — Phiueas Sprague, Na- Sprague. When finally built it thaniel Howard, Samuel vSprague, became what is now the easterly Thomas Vinton, Benoni Vinton endof Wyoming Avenue, beginning and Phineas Sprague, Jr. — were at Main Street, thence through allowed to work out, according to Hurd and Cottage vStreets to F'oster custom thtn in vogue, their high- Street, way rates for three years, on the ROADS. STREETS AND HIGHWAYS. 55 Essex. Green. Grove. Foster. Cottage, \V\-oniin!4- Avenue, IlurtI, Trenton, Melrose, Tremont, Sylvan, first called Cemetery Street, Vine, Ashland, Linwood Avenue, first called Chelsea Street, East Wyoming A\enue, Poplar, Willow. Laurel, now Cedar, Winthrop, Mt. Vernon, Linden. Otis, Lake Avenue, Summer, Upham from Main to Lebanon, first called Church Street. Cedar Park and others. As the town increased in population, new dwellings were erected, and new streets built, year by year, until the present time, when we ha\e two hundred and eighty-sexen streets, avenues, courts and places, and fifty-three and nine-tenths miles of streets and ways, fort\--two and a c[uarter miles of which are public, or accepted streets; the balance are open to public use, but not accepted. Of these eleven and a half miles are county roads, and are included in the fort\--two and a quarter miles of accepted streets. In the earh' days it was a common thing to place gates across the roads; and the Maiden records are full of votes that were passed concerning their construction and mainte- nance in the various parts of the town. "While travelling was entirel\' on foot, or on horseback, the incon\enience of gates was not great; but the gradual introduction of chaises and other \-ehicles rendered unobstructed roads desirable." '•' Sidewalks. Melrose, if not the first, was one of the first towns to lay concrete sidewalks, under the provisions of an act of the Legislature, allowing appropriations especially for that object to be made, sidewalks built, and one-half the cost assessed upon the abutters. The first action, introduced on motion of Allen C. Goss, was taken at the Annual Meeting in March, 1878, when Si 000 was appro])riated for that jjurpose. Accord- ingly, Siooo was sj)ent l)y the town, and as much mori.' l)y the citizens in front of whosi- residences sidewalks were l)uilt; making S2000 worth of concrete- walks, which were laid the first year; and tlu- .Selectmen said in their report: We feel that this money has been judiciously e.xpended, and that the construction of these walks has proved of great advantage not only as a convenience to our own citizens, but as an additional proof to strangers visiting our town, with the view to coming among us, that we are alive to the wants of the community. From that day to this, year b\' \ear, an ap|)ro[)riation lias ^'■^ Corey, History of Maiden. 462. 56 HISTORY OF MELROSE. been made, expressly for the purpose of extending new walks; $1000 each year until 1887 — except 1885, S900 — S2000 each year from 1887 to 1894, with $500 additional for repairs; and for the last seven years the amounts have been: 1896, S3000; 1897, i^3500; and 1898,^3500; 1899-1902,^2500 each; and the vote has been broadened so as to include either concrete or brick sidewalks; the amount to cover necessar}' repairs to old walks, and with the additional requisite that the applicant desiring a sidewalk be required to deposit one-half the esti- mated cost of same before building. In this manner, our town has now many miles of continuous sidewalks, which neces- sarily, is a source of great comfort and convenience, not only to our citizens, but quickly attracts the attention of anyone visiting our municipality with the view of becoming a resident. One thing is yet needed: an enforced ordinance making it obligatory upon each and every freeholder to clear off his sidewalk after snowstorms. That additional luxury will pro- bably be experienced in the near future now that " fair Mel- rose " has become a city! Particularly connected with this subject of roads is the following unique description of travel from Maiden to Boston, written before the incorporation of Melrose, and about the time the railroad was opened for regular travel, by John Hay ward, in his New Eiigland Gazetteer. Until the erection of Charles River and Maiden bridges in 17S6 and 1787, this town was as far " down east " in regard to its connection with Boston by roads and bridges as any town in the County of York, in the State of Maine, now is. In those days, a Maiden lady wishing to visit Boston by land, had to rise early and travel by wagon, side-saddle or pillion, through Medford, Charlestown, Cambridge, Little Cam- bridge (now Brighton), Brookline, Roxbury, and over the Neck to the great metropolis, and when she arrived w-as so fatigued by her day's journey that she had to rest a day or two before she was able to make her calls. But now, how changed ! Those cruel, turnpike killers and despisers of horseflesh, the legislators of Massachusetts, have granted permission to a number of men to set up a long, narrow building on trundles, a sort of travelling meeting-house, with a bell to it, and a row of pews on each side of the aisle, drawn by a savage-looking beast that keeps pufifing and whistling like a northeaster, and when started, seems as if Satan himself couldn't catch him. By this mode of travelling, a lady or gentleman at Maiden may leave home at almost anj' hour, go clown south to Boston, a distance of live miles, see their friends, do their errands, and return in one short sunnj- hour. There are now two ROADS, STREETS AND HIGHWAYS. 57 delightful and flourishing \illages in the town through both of which the railroad passes. The number of inhabitants in 1S45, in the whole of Maiden, was computed at 2700. This picture of tra\'el in those early days, partakes in part of the nature of romance; inasmuch as, previous to the time of building the Maiden and Charles Ri\-er bridges, the "Penny Ferry," crossing the Mystic River from Mystic Side to Charlestown had been established as early as 1640; and the ferry across the Charles River from Charlestown to Boston had existed since the year 1635. Thus a direct way for man and beast was made, by which a passage to and fro between Maiden and Boston, could be made in a much shorter time than that described b\' Mr. Havward. CHAPTER IV. OLD FAMILIES AND HOMESTEADS. AS HAS been heretofore stated, the territory now Melrose, has been occupied by certain original families and their descendants for many generations. The genealogy of some of them has been published; that of the Uphams by Henry B. Upham, and the Greens and Vintons by Rev^ John Adams Vinton, in " Genealogical Sketches of the Descendants of John Vinton of Ly?i)i, 1648; and several Allied Fainiliesr Much genealogical information concerning the Barrett and L^'nde families, although in a disconnected state, was left in . MSS. by the late Artemas Barrett; and much matter concern- ing the Sprague and Lynde families, has been collected by Wilton F. Bucknam, a descendant of both families, in his Biicknani Genealogy, now ready for the press. But a genealogy of these families does not come within the province of this history; but certain facts have been gathered from various sources, and some interesting matter rescued from oblivion, concerning some of these original families and home- steads.^ The Lyndes. Among the early settlers in Charlestown was Thomas Lynde, who came from England, where he was born in January, i5g-;4. He became a freeman in 1634. He bought a tract of land which included the site of the present State Prison, and which was known until after the time of the Revo- lution as Lynde's Point. He was one of the Deputies to the General Court for several years, serving first in 1636. He was one of the Selectmen of Charlestown for man\' years, and dea- con of the Charlestown Church. He became a large land owner, and has been st^ded in different documents, "master," "malster," "gentlemen," and "yeoman." ^ This inforniatioti comes in a with citizens and descendants variety of ways ; from the Barrett which took place at the time of and Bucknam MSS., old records, the historical address, "TheCt-n- printed matter, newspaper clip- tennial Fourth," in 1876; and, pings, and personal interviews also, those of a more recent date. OLD FAMILIES AND HOMESTEADS. ■ 59 In the CJiarlestown Book of Possessions, iox 1638, issued in 1878, as the Third Report of the [Boston] Record Co}/ii/iissioners, which has been called the Domesday Book of Mystic Side,'- Thomas Lynde is credited with thirteen items or parcels of real estate, besides his homestead "on the southeast side of mill hill." In the various allotments of out-lyinsr lauds which had been pre- viously made, he had received a uumber of tracts belonging to Mystic Side. One of them, evidently received in the division of ha\--lots, was described as follows: Three Acres of meaddow by estimation, more or lesse. lying on the north side of mount prospect, [\^'a3'te's Mount, now crowned with Maiden's water reservoir,] butting southeast upon Edward Convers, and to the northwest upon the riverett, bounded b.\' the comon on the southeast and northeast. He also received by allotment, " Eightie Acres of land lying in Rockefeilde." Concerning this tract, the following record occurs in Charlestoivn Arc/iives, xx: [18. 12"." 1638.] Inasmuch as it app? y'. the Land in the great Letts y\ was laid out to Thomas Line & Rich'.' Sprague prooves altogeth"; un- usefull being nothing but Rockes Wj^ was wholly besides or intent, & only through oversight of the Surveyo'-s wee Judge it to bee Just & equall y'. they have allowance elswhere to theire satisfaction they leave- ing the affores*^ Rocks to lye Common. Therefore, Aug. 26, 1639, it was agreed " y'. Tho: Line shall have some Land by the Mount Prospect, if upon view it may bee had by his Hay ground." This was laid out as proposed; and " Here, as the Lynde family increased, several houses were built, the oldest of which was probably built by Thomas, the grantee, on the site of the brick-end house now standing near the entrance of the [Forest Dale] Cemetery on Forest Street." =^ These two allotments of land formed the beginning of the future ownership, by Thomas Lynde and his descendants, of not only this land on the northerly side of Wayte's Mount, in Maiden, but of nearly all the territory adjoining and now included in the southern part of Melrose. Deacon Thomas Lynde died in Maiden, Dec. 30, 1673. His will was dated Dec. 20, 167 1. In it the institution of slavery early makes itself manifest on our New England soil: "As also I give and bequeath to her [his wife Rebecca,] my Negro 2 Qovity, History 0/ Maiden, ()(). ■' Ibid. 60 HISTORY OF MELROSE. Peter & Negro girl haru to Enjoy and Dispose of as she sees good." Ensign Thomas Lynde, eldest son of Deacon Thomas Lynde, was born in England in i6i6, and came to Maiden some years before its incorporation, when it was known as Mystic Side. He may have lived for a while in the first house built by his father, before spoken of; but soon after, about 1645, ^'^ home- stead was built either by himself or his father, just south of Boston Rock on the present Sylvan Street, near the north- western entrance to Wyoming Cemetery.* This was the first house built on Melrose territory. As evidence of this early residence of Ensign Thomas Lynde, there is a remonstrance, dated March 16, 1648, recorded in the Massachusetts Archives, vol. 121, page 21, against the laying out of the highway from Winnesimet to Reading as then contemplated, in which refer- ence is made to his farm lands, the appointment of Mr. Lynde on a committee to take the matter into consideration, and the report of the committee thereon, in 1648; and his house is referred to in the final laying out of this road in 1653.^ He served many years in the Military Company of Maiden; was Sergeant in 1658, and Ensign in 1675. This was the time of "King Philip's War," and in August of this year Maiden was called upon to furnish "ten able horses well shod w"^ bridles & sadles well shod fitt for the Countreys seruice." The con- stable made the following return: I haue im prest ten horses for the us of the centre a cordin to the tener of the warent. Edmond Chamberlin. Captin John wayt Leftinant John Sprag Insine Thomas lind Samewill Sprag Samewel lues Benjamin whitemore Joel Jenkins thomas grouer Steuen grouer Symon grouer" Ten years later, while still Ensign, he presented the follow- ing petition asking for his dismission from the service: 7]) the Hoiiorcti gcucrall Court : mno sit'ni!^ in Boston The petition of Thomas Lyiide of fiia/de/i Hiiini>/y Showeth: whereas you haue bin * Geneatogies of the Lyndcs, in ^ These docunieuts are given iu MSS. b)- .^rtenias Barrett and Wil- the chapter on " Roads, Streets ton F. Bucknam. and Highway's. " " IMass. Archives, Ixvii, 234. OLD FAMILIES AND HOMESTEADS. 61 pleased to Commission your Suplyant to y^ ofise of An Ensigne in y*: foot Comp> : military of maiden An throuj^h the Jnfirmytyes of age J find my Selfe altogether in capasytated to doe you any further Servis in Said ofise J beg therefore your dismission from y' servis: and shall pray for yo"" prosperyty and Remaine you"" Humble Serv' . May 6th, 16S5 '^/A^<y \^^^iyj^ In the year 1670, Ensi\ni Thomas Lynde built, for his son Joseph, a homestead on what is now the corner of Main Street and Goodyear Avenue, which, with its farm of many acres, was owned up to within a few years by one of his descendants ENSIGN THUJIAS I^VNDE IIUMESTEAD-KITU. of the sixth generation, another Joseph Lynde. Soon after, Ensign Thomas left his old home under Boston Rock and went to live with his son Joseph, where he remained until his death in 1693; '"i<^' another son, Capt. John Lynde, occupied the old homestead of his father. The house built b>- the father at this time, smaller then than now, is at present a large and commodious structure, and is an interesting specimen of the ancient colonial architecture. It is still in a most excellent state of preservation, and shaded b\- its ancestral elms. There are a few houses now standing in "^ Mass. Archives, l.\x, 132. 62 HISTORY OF MELROSE. New England that antedate this one; there are none that pre- sent so fine an appearance. Not many of our modern wooden houses will exist at the end of two and a quarter centuries! But this is a strongly built, large-timbered structure, capable of defying the elements for many more decades.'^ The original and main part of this house is the oldest now existing in Melrose. There are others that are very old, but none that equals this in age, being two hundred and thirt)'-two years old. In the chapter on " Roads, Streets and Highways," will be found a petition signed by Ensign Thomas Lynde, with a fac- simile of the same, dated April 20, 1671. This was prelimi- nary to the change that was made in the first road of 1653; and the action of the Court thereon was as follows: This 19 September 71. In Order to what the County Court held at Charlestown the — of June 1 67 1 who hath Chosen and impowered James grene Josias Conuers and Jonathan Poole to state the hyway now Jn question towards Redding nere Ensign Thomas linds being in his grounds : : we Whos names are aboue mentioned do therefore Se Cause to remoue the hywaye from where Jt did former ly that Js to say through the Oald feld to the place vnder the rocks wliere the waye now lyes. Witness our hands. '^ For some interesting items con- cerning this old homestead, I am indebted to Mr. Wilton F. Buck- nam, author of the Bnckna))i Geiie- alogy, a lineal descendant of the vSpragues, Lyndes and Greens, by intermarriage, and who has given much attention also to the Sprague and Lynde genealogies, as well as historic matter relating to these families. In a letter dated July 10, 1899, he states that the original house as built by Ensign Thomas Lynde in 1670, was enlarged and its internal arrangements changed by his grandson Col. Joseph Lynde. It then had diamoud-paned win- dows, which came from England, the glass set with lead. These windows were afterwards trans- ferred to the Jabez Lynde house on James Grene Josias Conuars Jonathan Poole*' Washington Street, hereafter re- ferred to. The stair-rails, mould- ings and tiles for these alterations, also came from England. Some of the timbers are 14 inches square. He also states, that tradition in the Lynde family says, that owing to some disagreement between Dea. Thomas Lynde, the original settler in Charlestown, and his son, Col. Joseph Lynde, brother of Ensign Thomas, that the deacon came to live in this new house, which had bsen built in part by the father's money, and died tliere ; which would account for his having been buried in Bell Rock Cemetery, instead of at Charlestown. Midd/t'se.x- Court Fi/rs, October, 1671. OLD FAMILIES AND HOMESTEADS. G3 This changed the road from the east side of Boston Rock to the west side; "the place vnder the rocks where the wave now lyes," still existing, plainly seen and easily followed, leaving Sylvan Street a few rods east of Main Street, thence skirting the base of the "rocks" by the old stone wall, to the residence of the late D. Alvin Lynde, enters our present Main Street, opposite the Henry Lynde mansion. This change in the road accommodated the new houses then built and to be built by the L}'ndes. From Ensign Thomas Lynde descended all the Lyndes that are now living, or have lived in Melrose. He was one of the Selectmen of Maiden during the years 1678, 1684, 5, 6, 7 and 8." He died Oct. 15, 1693, aged jj years. By his will, dated Oct. 3, 1693, on file in the Probate Court at East Cambridge, he divided his farm between his sons Joseph and John ; giving r^i^r, f^M'-'-- ,.A.-'r — - - - - geict^Shl^'^^ to Joseph the southern portion, and to John the northcni. This farm embraced a region about as follows : Beginning at the southwestern corner and extending northerly along the line of Washington Street to near \V\-(Mning A\enuc ; thence easterly along the line of that Axeiuie, and nearly or ciuite to Lebanon Street, then southerly, embracing the territ(-)r\- of Boston Rock, W\oming Cemetery, Pine Banks Park, antl For- est Dale Cemetery, to Forest Street in Maiden; thence westerly- to Washington Street, embracing "Island Hill," between Main Street and the Boston and Maine Railroad, which in earl\- da\s ■" Elizabeth, (laughter of Knsigii of a receipt given the executors Thomas Lyude, and .sister to Joseph for their portion of the estate of and John Lynde, married Peter her grandfather, Ensign Thomas Tufts. Her daughter married Ja- Lynde. Tlie black spots were seal- cob Hurd, and above is a facsimile ing-wax seals. 64 HISTORY OF MELROSE. a i<4.^ ■■^ '.-■■■ 't^''*^ ^^ 11 The above iMlicr iacMiaile ui .1 l.yiide, Jauuary n, 1736. Mr. page of a manuscript sermon which Emerson was the pastor of Mal- was preached by the Rev. Joseph den, from 1721 to 1767. Emerson, on the death of Mr. OLD FAMILIES AND HOMESTEADS. 65 was surrounded by the meadows of Three Mile Brook. This hill is fast disappearing by the restless hand of improvement and utility. One of the descriptions in this will contains this sentence: " Bounded by a great rock at the corner of John Lyndes about 20 rods beyond his house." This "great rock" was the well-remembered immense boulder which stood near the residence of George Washington Groxer, on IMain Street. This house has disappeared; so, also, has a large part of the boulder. .These changes took place when Mount Vernon Place was laid out, and the houses built thereon, together with those on Main Street adjoining. Joseph L\'nde, born Dec. 13, 1652, who received the old homestead, and the southern and eastern part of the original farm, embracing what is now Wyoming Cemetery, died in 1736, at the age of eighty-three years, lea\-ing his real estate to his son Joseph; he gax'e his " negro Dinah " to his wife. In the Melrose Public Library is a small volume containing four of his printed sermons, which were preached during the year 1738. It was at this time that occurred the visitation of a terrible disease in Maiden, carrying off two, three, four, and in one instance five members of a family, mostly children. In the midst of this pestilence the inhabitants cried out " Be- hold ! The Lord hath created a new thing in the midst of us. It is a very strange punishment that He is inllicting upon us.'' It was called a " throat distemper." The titles of two of these sermons are: " Early Piety P^ncouraged; A Discourse occa- sional by the joyful and triumphant Death of a Young Wo- man of Maiden, Who died of the Throat-Distemper, Sept. 6, 1738. .-Etat. 21." This has an eight-paged "Dedication To the Chikh'en and Youth of Maiden." The other was " A Word to those that are afflicted very much. A Sermon Preach'd at the Lecture in Maiden, October 20th, 1738. On Occasion of the repeated and multii)lied Deaths of Children in many Families in said Town, by the Throat Distemper." This book belonged to one of our Howard family, as is shown by the autograph inscription on the fly-leaf: " Nathanael HowartI his Book god give him grace hearin to look in the >'ear of March the 14 Day 1758." This uniiiue and ancient volume was bought at an auction sale and presented to our Public Library by John W. P^arwell, Esq.^- ^2 Facsimiles of the title pages of Corey in his History of Muldtii, these two sermons are given by pp. 639, 640. 66 HISTORY OF MELROSE. This farm of Dea. Joseph Lynde was bequeathed to his son Joseph, who was born September 2, 1690; and it was while in his possession that the changes in the old house, heretofore spoken of, were made, lea\'ing its outward appearance about as now seen. In finishing and embellishing the parlor, he adorned the large, old-fashioned fireplace with tiling. His father considered this a piece of extravagance, and was so incensed that he struck one of the tiles so hard with his cane that it broke; and it so remained for many years. When this house passed out of the possession of the Lynde family, a few years since, during a time C~^ /^ ^ ' — ^ of some repairs, these tiles ^_^^y'^^ ^^^ ^ ^^ oc<f 7^^ mysteriously disappeared.^-^ ___^_/ Joseph Lynde was an active man in town affairs; was one of the Selectmen for fifteen years, between 1735 and 1760, and a member of the Legislature in the j^ears 1739, 1741 and 1743. He died March 16, 1763, aged 72 years. In his will he bequeaths his "Negro Dinah," and his farm to his son Nathan, who was born July 13, 1732. From Nathan the homestead descended to his son Joseph, born July 30, 1769; and he be- queathed it to his son Joseph, . /^ w4io was born Nov. 19, 1804, and ,^Vv4Ry>-^ °^H never married. He tilled its -^ / acres until he died in 1875, ^^ ^^^*^ ^?>^ of seventy years, when the homestead passed into the possession of his sister, Mrs. Rebecca Lynde Eaton; and in 1881, the farm, then consisting of 175 acres, was bought b\' Hon. Elisha S. Converse of Maiden. Thus had these original acres remained in pos- session of the Lynde family, descending from father to son, through seven generations, and for a period of nearh' two and a half centuries. While the farm and homestead was in the possession of the L}'ndes, it always ex'idenced thrift and enter- prise. Beautifulh' situated in the \-alle}^ between ranges of hills, its spacious mansion, shaded l)y tall ancestral elms, its well-tilled acres, large and commodious barns, well filled with the products of the farm, flocks of sheep and herds of cattle, all indicated one of the good old-fashioned New England homesteads, which, alas ! grow scarcer as the years go by ! On the western portion of this farm, close under the tower- ^■^ Afterwards one was given to serted over one of his fireplaces. Hon. Levi S. Gould, who had it in- c^fr«-« OLD FAMILIES AND HOMESTEADS. 67 ing eastern ed^e of the Middlesex Fells, and near the Fells station, the Boston Rubber Shoe Company, of which Mr. Converse is the principal stockholder, built its extensive manufacturing- plant, known as Factory No. 2, the works at Edgeworth being No. i. This establishment gives em- plo3ment to hundreds of persons, many of whom are residents of our city, and for whom the Company has built numerous dwellings on the surrounding acres.'-* ."XtLROE. 'AA^^ This \-iew of the Boston Rubber Shoe Compan\''s Works at the Fells is taken from the summit of Black Rock. In the distance is seen the Maiden Water Reser\-oir, on the top of Wayte's Mount. The eastern portion of this farm, south of Boston Rock and \\'yoming Cemeter}-, is now known as Pine Banks Park. This is a tract of one hundred and ten acres, nearly all of which are in Melrose; a few acres are across the line in Mai- den. Its surface is di\-crsified with hill and dale, bold crags and winding streams. It has in its central part se\eral pecul- iarly formed banks and knolls, and is mostly co\"ered with trees; the pine tree largely predominating; hence its appro- priate name. Under the care and superintendence of Mr. John Davidson, Mr. Con\-erse has built man\- smo(Uh and handsome carriage '* Since writing this the business Rubber Co.," but the business con- has been absorbed by the large tinues in tlie name of the Hoston trust known as " United .States Rubber Shoe Company. 68 HISTORY OF MELROSE. roads, many of them bordered with shrubs and flowers, wind- ing through these acres in all directions, affording miles constructed to its top. In the more central part is situated the "Summit," reached by a winding road, on which 111 observator}' has been erected; and from uiiicli a ciiarmmg view of the surrounding country is obtained. Nearby is "Island Pond" with its rustic bridge and adjoining picnic grove. Between these summits there is "The Intervale," a densely OLD FAMILIES AND HOMESTEADS. G9 wooded glen, on the eastern brow of which, connecting Wyo- ming and Forest Dale Cemeteries, runs " Hillside Terrace," which traverses that section of the old 1653 road between Winnesimett and Reading; and on the northern part of this Park, bordering on Main and Sylvan Streets, there has been established the links of the Pine Banks Golf Club. All of this magnificent territory-, luxuriously adorned by nature, and lavishly cared for, has been freely opened to an appreciative public by the generous owner. Here all are invited to enjoy the many walks and drives which intersect this sylvan retreat. It is justly becoming a famed resort for outing parties. Each season witnesses the coming and going of thousands of visitors. There is one unique feature in this Park which is not open to the public; the rustic "Log Cabin," situated on " Island Pond Road," not far from the romantic "Lodge" at the main entrance. This belongs exclusi\ely to Mrs. Mary D. Con- verse, wife of the owner. It is furnished with the old fashioned furniture of former days. Its walls are lined with pictures of historic interest. It contains many curiosities, trophies gathered from near and from far. Among the man>' interesting articles there may be mentioned Egyptian can- dlesticks, a Roman shield, boar's head, Chinese gods, spinning and flax wheels, foot sto\"e, warming pan, sabres, pistols, powder-horn, guns^ one with a canteen, from the battlefield of " Fair Oaks," Confederate — cup and saucer from the Spanish "Maria Theresa," etc., etc. Occasion- al j:)arties are held herein; the marriage ceremony of one of the daughters of the Superin- OLD CORN MILL — NOW STANDING tendcut.was performed there- iN READING ROOM OF MELROSE [y^ a short time a<^o PUBLIC LIBRARY. ' , . T ■ r At the time this farm was sold, and the contents of the old homestead scattered b\' an auction sale, there was fount! in the cellar a relic of the old 70 HISTORY OF MELROSE. colonial husbandry, of "\'e olden time," indeed. It is made from an oak lo.o-, a little laro-er and taller than a common barrel, dus^- out like a mcM-tar, with iron hoops "around it- It has two heavy wooden pestles. It is an old corn or samp mill; in it was pounded the corn and grain for family use, doubtless before the building of the Coytmore mill, at Mai- den Centre, in 1640. At this sale of the farm belongings in 1881, this mill was bought by Homer S. Littlefield, who, a few years afterwards, presented it to the Town of Melrose. This curious and antique relic of by-gone clays is now safely cared for in the reading-room of the Public Library. Col. Joseph L>'nde, a brother of Ensign Thomas, born June 8, 1636, was a prominent and wealthy citizen of Charlestown. He had much trouble with Gow Andros, in 1687, relativ^e to the title of his land. In 1695, he was commissioned by Lieut. Gov. William Stoughton, to pursue the Indians who had made an attack on the town of Billerica. His report of this expedi- tion is as follows: Aug". 23';' 1695. Receiving" commission from the Honorable William Stoughton, Leutenant Governor, Commander in Cheif, over all the province of Massachusetts, with instructions for his Majesty's service in the County of Middlesex : pursuant where unto, I went that night to Billerica, where I found about three hundred men in arms from Woburn, Reading, Maiden, Medford, Charlestown, Cambridge, Water- town, under conduct of Major William Johnson ; Major Jeremiah Swaine; Major Wade Capt. William Greene; Capt. John Greene; Lt. Remington ; Lt. Haman Capt. Gerheld Sergeant Bond and Mr. Sherman. That night we marched to the river Merrimack, guarded the fords there, being three between Andover and Chelmsford, with about fort}' men at each ford, and with about one hundred men encamped that Night at Prospect Hill, that lies between Chelmsford and the river, on the northern side of the Great Swamp ; leaving the remaining forces to guard the town. As soon as it was light, on the 24 of Aug. instant, we sent men to the top of the said hill, where we had a view of the said swamp, and the country far about, but could discover no fire an}-where. Thence we proceed to range the woods between Andover and Chelmsford, but finding no sign of our enemies, we rendezvous at a place called Sandy Pond, about eight miles from Billerica eastward ; from whence about ele\'en of the clock that day we went to the Great Swamp, dismounted half our men, the other half taking their horses. We caused the men on foot to pass through the Swamp in a rank, each man at a distance as much as was conveient, appointed to rendezvous again at Prospect Hill. Major Johnson with OLD FAMILIES AND HOMESTEADS. 71 about forty men compassing the swamp on the west side, and myself with the rest of the soldiers on the east side. Our men on foot with much difficulty got through the Swamp, gave us account that they saw a new track and smelt Indians in one place, but did not judge by their tracks there were above two. having again rendezvous about four o'clock, afternoon, near Prosect Hill, having before noon ranged the woods belonging partly to Andover and Chelmsford to the eastward of Prospect Hill, we proceeded to range the woods towards Chelms- ford; rendezvousing again near the time of sunsetting at the cheif fording place on the Merrimack below Hunts Garrison: where I advised with all our officers. Having no prospect of doing service against the enemy ; considering the evil that had accrued by diuiding of all the forces at once. I left a guard of ten men to guard that ford under the direction of Hunt and Foster of P>illerica. until the 2()^^ of Aug. instant, at night, and then to be dismissed without further order. Marching then up to Billerica town in di\erse parties, we rendezvous at the OrdinaiT, where paying off the army with thankfuU acknowl- edgements for the ready and willing services. — at their request I dismissed them according to their desires, to make the best of their way home which without doubt they attended: though with difficult}-. by reason of the darkness of the night. So concluding, I am Sir vour Servant ^Q>X^ Dated at Charlestown. Aug. 25, 1695. Capt. lohn L\'n(k-, who r(jcei\ccl from his father, Ensi.L,Mi Thomas, the northern part of the farm, left the old orii,Mnal house at the foot of Boston Rock and built his new house in 1693, aiul it stood where lixcd the late Warren Lyndc. The farm and homestead is now owned b\' his son, Henry Lx'iide. Warren Lynde. of the seventh generation, was born May 15, 1799, and (lied in I<S8(S at the age of eighty-nine \ears. The old house first built by Knsign Thomas Lynde, near the entrance to the W\omi ng Cemeter\- was abandoned.^" The old cellar-hole and well existed until the wall of the cenieter_\- was built. The story is told among the Lynde descendants, of a very severe winter in those early times. A long-continued 1^ Massac/utset/s Arc/iives. Vol. '" .Mr. I'.uckiiaiii slates in the 51, page 41. Col. Lynde died Jan. letter heretofore quoted, that this 29, 1727, aged 91 years. old abandoned house stood until about i8(X), when it was torn down. 72 HISTORY OF MELROSE. snow-storm completely buried the house from sight; and the relatives and neighbors went to the house on snow-shoes, and could only communicate with the snow-entombed family from the top of the chimney, through which provisions were passed and the inmates thus kept from starvation. The Warren Lynde house, with its contents, was burned April 10, 1819, in the night time, the family barely escaping with their lives, and the present capacious mansion was built the following year by Warren's father, Benjamin Lynde, born Oct. 2, 1758, who inherited the place by will from his father, Joseph, together with " Island Hill " district of fifteen acres, WARREN LVXDE HOMESTEAD. situated in Maiden just south of the Melrose line, and the sixty acre "Hill Pasture "now known as Boston Rock. Benjamin was a member of Captain Benjamin Blaney's Maiden company- tnat marched to Lexington, April 19, 1775, "to resist the minis- teral troops." ^' ^ /^^*<?<K 6 >^ <r-y/^<^C^ Captain John L}'nde was one of the Selectmen of Maiden during the years 1695, 1700. 1703. 4 'i^^l 1708.^' At this period, 1'' John Lj'iide was impressed the Maiden military company about January, iSy?'^; "hyres pemberton the beginning of the eighteenth in his stead ;" was with Maj. Wil- century. Corey, History of Mal- lard in 1676. He was captain of den, 325, 718. OLD FAMILIES AND HOMESTEADS. 73 Maiden laws required all cattle to be marked in some manner, and each owner's mark to be recorded in the town book. Many different ear-marks put upon cattle by different farmers are upon record. These marks were snipped on the ears of these creatures in every conceivable shape. Under date of 1689, the record of the one adopted by Capt. Lynde, is as fol- lows: "The mark which cap. John Line doe put upon y"^ ears of those his creturs which be usually ear marks — That is, y*^ top of y^ near eare cut sijuare of, and a slit down in the same eare. Also a half peney cut out of y^ under side of y* furder eare."i* Another Lynde homestead was that of another Joseph, brother of Benjamin, who died in 1798, gixinj^ to his son John, grandfather of Chief Fire Engineer, A. Wilbur Lynde, his farm of thirty acres situated between Grove and Upham Streets, east of Lebanon Street, ^ ^o together with the homestead j?^>^/>t_ ^^X-^ 9^C^ now standing on the corner of ^y ^^^ Grove and Lebanon Streets. ^^^-^ This came to be known among the Lyndes as "the upper house." Until within a very few years a most magnificent elm tree stood in the square in front of this mansion. Old age, lightning and the gales made such havoc with its far spreading and aged branches, that it had to be uprooted; and the homestead it had sheltered for over a century knew it no longer. Two other farms joining this on the easterly- side, belonging to John and .Samuel Grover, were pur- chased and added to this in 1786. The old home- stead still remains in the possession of the Lyndes, the present owners being Miss Louisa L>nde. Mrs. Sarah K. Gage, a sister, and Mrs. William LnmhU'. Init josKPH i.vxDH HOMESTE.^D. ^,^^. f.^^.,^^^ together with some adjoining land, was bought in 1856, b>- Hon. Daniel \V. Gooch, Walter Littlefield and Otis Clapp; surve>ed. streets " Capt. Lynde added much to to a great extent, buying house- his farm in his day. Was a trader hold necessaries in quantity and 74 HISTORY OF MELROSE. built, and laid out in house lots, under the name of the " Home Association." Several lots in the square between East Foster, Sixth, Laurel and Larrabee Streets were reserved, and they form what is now know as "The Common." Most of these lots were then sold, or soon afterwards, and ha\e been very gener- ally built upon. Additional tracts of land were afterwards bought and many dwellings built thereon. The whole region has come to be known as East Side. There were still other Lynde homesteads. The very old house on the corner of Glen and Russell Streets, is still in possession of the Lyndes, being owned by Franklin G. Lynde, who inherited it through a nmnber of generations, from the original owner. Captain John Lynde, who inherited the JOHN LYNDE HOMESTEAD. land from Ensign Thomas Lynde. It was built about 1700, by Captain Lynde, for his son John, born April I. 1672; after- wards it was bought by Jabez Lynde, born January lO, 1 744; from whom it descended to the late Jonathan Lynde, born January 15, 17S5. grandfather of the present owner; and who died in i86g, aged eighty-five years. The will of Jabez made in 1769, speaks of his negro Zachary. The oldest portion of this house, to which an addition was built many years ago, with selling to the neighbors, taking his days for market. Buckuani, letter pay in " barter," and had regular of July 10, 1899. OLD FAMILIES AND HOMESTEADS. lb its low-studded, beam-crossed ceilings, is two centuries old. Paintinj^s and photos^^raphs vvithout number, have been taken, together with description for press and volume, illustrating its appearance and antiquity. It is still in very good condition. In it was born the late Aaron Green, whose father once tilled the farm, which then embraced the estate now owned by Hon. Daniel Russell; also the land now Russell Park. Captain John Lynde also built for his son Thomas, born Oct. 24, 1685, at about the same lime, 1700, the old house situated about one hundred rods west of the previous one, being the last house on Washington Street before reaching the Stoneham line. It has been remodelled and now presents a modern appearance. Originally it had a very large chimney and fireplace, wide front door through which huge fire logs were taken, and 3x4 diamond-paned windows, the glass secured by lead instead of putty. By his father's will, Thomas had the right "to pass and re- pass over to the Reading Road, leading to Maiden, providing he allows his brother John to pass and repass over past his house to the old road leading from Maiden to Spot Pond." This first way was aji old cart path leading from these home- steads north of the present Daniel Russell estate, over to the present Henry Lynde house to what is now Main Street, then the Reading Road. This was the only way the occupants of these farms had of getting out to the Reading road for many years. Captain John owned a negro boy, Samson, whom he disposed of by this same will made in 1747. The old home- stead remained in possession of the Lyndes for a number of generations. When owned by Jabez, it was alwa>-s spoken of as "the Jabe L>'nde place." It has since been known as the "Grundy place," having passed from the possession of the Lyndes in 1850. Jabez, son of Joseph, born in 1719, was Captain of the "Maiden Company of foot," in 1765. When troops were wanted for the movement on Crown Point in 1766, the following order was issued by Capt. Lynde: To M' SaDiiiil Baldwin. Cor' Sir you are Required in his Majesties Name forthwith to warn all the Training Souldiers Within your Linuiiits to meet at the House of Mr James Kettles Inhoklers in Maiden on Tuesday the 17 Day of this Instant June, at one of the Clock in the Afternoon with their arms Ammunition aquterments as the Law Directs and Make Return of this 76 HISTORY OF MELROSE. warrant With your Doings herein at or Before the time Set for S^^ Training Dated in Maiden 1766 June g'^^ By Order of Cap' Jabez Lj-nds. Ezra Sargeant MiUtary Clark. This is endorsed as follows: I have warned and Caused to be warned agreeable to within written Warrant. Sam^-l Baldwin. Capt. Lynde was one of the Selectmen of Maiden during the years 1766, 67 and 68. His son, Jabez, born Jan. 10, 1744, was sergeant in Capt. Benjamin Blaney's company that went to Lexington, April 19, 1775; also in the Point Shirley Expe- dition, June, 1776. He received six pounds bounty Dec. 9, 1776, "Voted by the Town of maiden for Prox'iding a Rein- forcement for the american Army."^*' In 1781, this Mr. Lynde furnished the town some wood and pork, and the following from the Order Book of the Select- men of Maiden shows the unsettled state of the currenc)' at that time: An order on the treasurer to Jabez Lynde for £^2$, equal to $1,083, and 2 shillings, in the first emission of Continental Dollars, for half a cord of pine wood; and for 125 lbs. of pork at ;?8 per lb. for the poor, as by his acct. dated Jan. 9, 1781, may appear. Dated in Maiden, Jan. 11, 1781. By order of the Selectmen, Joseph Perkins, Town Clerk. Thus it appears from the foregoing record, that nearly all of the territor}' now forming the southern portion of Melrose, with the exception of the wilderness portion belonging to the Commons and Scadan Woods, originally belonged to the L}'nde family; a goodh' number of its acres, which ha\'e been inherited from the first settler thereon, Ensign Thomas Lynde, still remain in possession of his descendants. The following incident is here referred to to show how dif- ferently political office is regarded to-day from what it was in those early days. There is no date given, therefore it cannot be said which of the Joseph Lyndes, and there were many, of whom it is recorded, that instead of paying anj'thing to get an office, " insign Joseph lynde" paid the town of Maiden ;^5 to be excused from serving as constable. The cost of tuition in the early part of the nineteenth cen- tury was somewhat less than it is at the beginning of the ^^ Corey, History of Maiden, 821. OLD FAMILIES AND HOMESTEADS. 77 twentieth, as may be seen by the foUowin*,' bill paitl by Stephen Lynde, son of Capt. Jabez l-vnde, which, among other papers, belongs to Mrs. Sarah G. Crafts, nee Lynde: Stoneham, Aug. 13, 1806. M?.- Stephen Lynde Dr to Patty Crooker for instructing two of his Children 12 weeks at Seven Cents for each Child per week $1.68 Rec'd pay Patty Crooker. The Spragues. The Sprague families have ever been \ery prominent and intimately connected with the historx' of this town from its earliest days. It is quite certain that our terri- tory was visited and traversed by the three brothers, Ralph Sprague, Richard Sprague and William Sprague, who came over from England, at their own cost, and who with three or four more, b}' joint consent and approbation of Mr. John Endicott, Governor, did the same summer of Anno 1628, undertake a journey from Salem, and travelled the woods above twelve miles to the westward, and lighted of a place situate and lying on the north side of Charles River, full of Indians called Aberginians. Their old Sachem being dead, his eldest son, [Monohaguaham] by the English called John Sagamore, was their chief, and a man natural!}- of a "gentle and good disposition,-'^ by whose free consent they settled about the hill of the same place b}' the said natives called Mishawum, [afterwards called Charlestown,] where they found but one English pallisadoed and thatched house, wherein lived Thomas W'alford. a smith, situate on the south end of the westermost hill of the East Field, a little way up from Charles River side, and upon survey, they found it was a neck of land generally full of stately timber, as was the main, and the land h'ing on the east side of the river, called Mystick River, from the farm Mr. Cradock's servants had planted called Mystick, which this river led up unto: and indeed generally all the country round about, was an uncouth wilderness full of timber.'"'-' -'^ His home in Maiden was upon .Spragues could not have gone on the creek which runs from the their journey during the summer marshes between Powder Horn of 1628, as above stated. Corey, in Hill, on which the Soldiers' Home a letter to the writer, dated Feb. i, is now situated, and Winuisemmet, 1901, thinks that the Spragues did into the Mystic River, at Sweetser's not come over with Gov. Endicott, or Beacham's Point. in 1628, but with Higginson in 1629, -^ Charlestown Records, Vol. r. and during that summer made their The above record was written by journey. This view is sustained by John Greene, in 1664, and is wrong Savage in his Gettcaloi^ical Die- in its chronology. Gov. Endicott tionary, and Erothingham in his did not arrive at Salem, until Sep- History of Charlestoxvn, p. 14. tember, 1628, con.sequently the 78 HISTORY OF MELROSE. There is no doubt whatever, but that the Spragues and their companions, were the first civilized men whose feet trod upon the soil, and whose eyes gazed upon the territory now Melrose, who explored with the view of making a permanent settle- ment."^"-^ Undoubtedly other explorers traversed our territory very soon after the Spragues, for Gov. Thomas Dudley, writ- ing to the Countess of Lincoln, in England, March 28, 1631, in giving an account of the dispersal of settlers which had taken place before this date, at various places around Boston, says: " others upon the River Saugus between Salem and Charles- town." In travelling from Charlestown to Saugus, seeking out -- Couceruiug the route of the Spragues during this exploration there is some controversy. Corey in his History of Maiden, p. 19, says: "Their probable course may be traced along the Salem path, which we may believe alread}- ex- isted as an Indian trail." Such a trail would necessitate the crossing of the Abousett, or Saugus River, in what is now East Saugus, and near its mouth where it is quite wide and deep. A bridge was built here about 1639, after which the Salem Path undoubtedly was much travelled. This entered Maiden b}- Black Ann's Corner, then after following the present Salem vStreet a while ran northwesterly through the Scadan Woods into the south- erly part of Melrose, thence wound around north of Wayte's Mount. But I am led to believe differently. It is distinctly stated in the Charlesto'iVn Records, that these ex- plorers " travelled the woods above twelve miles to the westward." The History of Ly>iii by Lewis and Newhall, p. 137, under date of 1631, shows a far more proV)able route of travel for this early date : " At this time, there was no bridge across Saugus River, and people who trav- elled to Boston were compelled to pass through the woods in the northern part of the town, and ford the stream by the Iron Works, which were near the site of the present woolen factories in vSau- gus Centre." These factories were north of the vSaugus Town Hall. Here the river was easily forded. Traces of this trail existed until within a short time. From the ford it continued westerly, enter- ing the confines of Melrose, a little way south of the cliffs be- low John Doherty's, on Upham Street, entering the woods and passing over what became the road from Maiden through Sau- gus to Lynn, and which was laid out in 1796, a part of which is now known as Altamont Avenue; and so on to the region of Spot Pond. After reaching our valley it would seem that the Sprague party turned to the south, crossed the M3-stic, and ceased their journeying at Charlestown, where they soon afterwards settled. As we shall see, the Spragues owned land to the west and south of Ell Pond, on record as early as 1638, showing undoubted ownership some years before; clearly indicating to my mind, that this valley was thus explored and admired during that first expedition. OLD FAMILIES AND HOMESTEADS. a proper place for settlement, it is quite feasible to suppose that our valley was visited by them in their wanderings. That the SpT-agues found this particular tract of country- pleasant and attractive, from its varied scenery and adapta- bility as a place of settlement, is evidenced by the fact that as early as 1638, only nine years later, the Spragues havinj,' left Salem and settled in Charlestovvn,-^^ both Ralph and Richard owned by allotment, a lar-,fe tract of land near \\\\ Pond,'-^ naming it "Pond Feilde." This covered a large part of what is now the westerly part of the town. Ralph Sprague had "Ninetie acres of land by esti- mation, more or lesse, scituate in Pond feilde;" and Richard had sixtie acres of land by estimation, more or lesse, scituate in pcjnd feilde,-^ bounded on the one side by Ralph Sprag^ue. on the northeast by ell pond and the river [that comes through the meadow into Ell pond. — (ireen,] and on the northwest by the comon.-'' All this territor}^ belonging to Charlestown, north of the Mystic River, was then called M\-stic Side. These three Spragues were the sons of Edward Sprague, a fuller, of Upway, County of Dorset, England. Ralph and Richard were both prominent in Charlestown affairs, both being among the founders of the Church, members of the General Court, Select- men for several years, atul oflicers in the Bos- -^^^^ ^i^^«-^ ^ ^j?^^,,^ -•' Richard Frothingham, in bis -■' " This makes it certaiu that _History of Chart cstonni, p. 20, gives the first recorded name of the see- the names of "The inhabitants tiou now known as Melrose, was yt : first settled in this place and Pond Feilde. It also fixes the tak- brought it into the denomination ing up of land here, as early as of an English Towue," and tlie 1638." .\ildress of Hon. Levi S. three Spragues, Ralph, Richard Gould, at annual bancjuet of the and William, are first on the list. Highlands Congregational Church -^ Variously spelled in early doc- uments: Iv, Ell, Eel, Ele, in one place in the Charlestown Records &?, Elnie; and in the Cogan deed, hereafter referred to, " Yeale." It in 1897. -'' Charlestoii'ti Book of Posscs- sioiis, in "Third Report of the Record Commissioners of tlie City of Boston," pp. 33, 46. I'luloubt- was evidently first nameil Iv on ac- e<lly the first compilation of the count of its shape and it was always kind in America, so considered by the early inhalj- -'" Traced from the original docu- itants; but by general usage is now, meiit, now at City Hall, Hostoii. and has been, spelletl Ell. 80 HISTORY OF MELROSE. ton Artillery Company. William remo\'ed to Hingham, where he also became prominent in town affairs. Richard and William Sprague signed the document estab- lishing the first Board of Selectmen in Charlestown, and Ralph was one of the eleven »--, / q ^ Selectmen then elected, Febru- /\^<^^-^^C^ ^tcc^c^aA^ ar>- 10, 1635. ' — ^ The choosing of Selectmen and other officers at Annual Town Meetings was first adopted by Massachusetts; and to Charlestown — of which we were originally a part — belongs the honor of establishing the first Board of Selectmen, in 1635, six years after its settlement. Dorchester, two years before, had tried a plan which approached this idea, but the inhab- itants of Charlestown matured and consuminated it, and adopted an order, the original of which is still preserved, with the signatures, and of which the following is a cop\-; and a facsimile of which ma)- be found in Frothingham's History of CliarlcsiozvUy p. 50. An order made by the inhabitants of Charlestowne at a full meeting for the government of the Town by Selectmen. In consideration of the great trouble and chearg of the inhabitants of Charlestowne by reason of the frequent meeting of the townsmen in generall and y' b}- reason of many men meeting thmgs were not so easely brought unto a joynt issue. It is therefore agreed by the sayde townesmeix iojmtly that these eleven men whose names are written on the other syde, (w^'' the advice of Pastor and Teacher desired in any case of conscience.) shall entreat of all such business as shall con- scerne the Townsmen, the choice of officers excepted, and what they or the greater part of them shall conclude of the rest of the towne willingly to submit unto as their owne propper act, and these 1 1 to continue in this employment for one yeare next ensuing, the date hereof being dated this: lo"' of February 1634 (1635.) In witness of this agreement we whose names are under written ha\"e set o'r hands. Soon afterward the General Court embodied this idea in its legislation, and proxided for general town government. Thenceforward, from that da)' to this, )'ear after )-ear, the people of the towns have met in open town-meeting, and with free discussion upon all questions, elected their Board of Selectmen, and other officers, and transacted all other necessary business. -^ Traced from the original dociuneut, now at City Hall, Boston. OLD FAMILIES AND HOMESTEADS. 81 The Town Mcctinij^s of New Kns^laiul have ever been its true ^Mory; and before the Revolution, they^ were, indeed, "the nur- sery of American Independence." Referrinrr to our earl\- town system, George William Curtis once said: Each town was a small but perfect republic as solitary and secluded in the New England wilderness as the Swiss cantons among the Alps. No other practicable human institution has been devised or conceived to secure the just ends of local government so felicitous as the Town Meeting. By the year 1640. the inhabitants of Charlestown had so increased that many of them had passed over the Mystic River and made quite a settlement a little to the south of Mount Prospect, now called Wayte's Mount. In 1640, Thomas Coytmore, quite often spelled Coitmore, who became a freeman in that year, and who was one of the Deputies to the General Court from C harlestown, in 1640 and 1641, built first a dam. .md then a mdl at Black Rock, on Three Myle Brook, Mystic Side, on the power made by the water flowinnr from Kll and Spot Ponds, joining as they did at Wyo- ming; thus furnishing grist-mill privileges to these increasing families of Mystic Siders. Years afterwards this site was utilized for manufacturing purposes. In 1806, three brothers, George, Thomas and Eben- ezer Odiorne, purchased the land and water-power at Black Rock, and established the manufacture of nails; being the first to cut and head them by one opera' ion. William Barrett had previoiisly. in 1803, established the silk-dyeing business, on a site near the Odiorne mill, and still carried on by his sons. It is known as the Alaldeii Dye House. Among those who left Charlestown and settled in Mystic Side, was Ralph .Sprague, who built a homestead a little to the norihwt st of the Coytmore mill. Dxing in 1660, he bequeathed this homestead and its farm to his sons lohn and Phineas; and bis farm in Pond ImiIcIc, near l.ll Pond, to his sons Richard and .Sam ml Ihis I{1I Pond farm was situated and bt)unded as follows: Beginning at Spot Pond Brook, below Wyoming Station, and running northeasti rly on a straight line on east sitle of Cottage Street, crossing West Foster Street and the Boston and Maine Railroad, through the late \\ illiam Bogle's land, thence cross- ing Essex and West Kmersoii -Streets and Lake Avenue, in 82 HISTORY OF MELROSE. a straight line, to Ell Pond, just east of the residence of the late John Shelton; thence northerly, following the brook that runs from Charles Street through Otis Street, into Ell Pond. From about twenty rods beyond Charles Street the line ran straight to Spot Pond Brook, and then by the brook to the point of beginning. The oldest son, John, bought this Ell Pond farm of his brothers Richard and Samuel in 1652.-^ The part belonging to Richard contained sixtj'-seven acres of ploughed and meadow land, and was the westerly half. His homestead stood near Barrett Mount, on the southerly side of Maple Street, about twenty rods west of Vinton Street. The old cellar was visible within the memory of some now living. John Sprague was one of the Selectmen of Maiden for many years, and a Representative to the General Court in 1690. He was one of the committee on behalf of Maiden to la}' out the old road of 1653, from Winnesemit to Reading. John Sprague died June 25, 1692, aged 68, and b}' his will bequeathed his farm to his sons John and Phineas; John li\ing on the old Maple Street place; and for Phineas a homestead was built out of the estate. This house stood where now stands the residence of L. Frank Hinckley, on West Foster Street, near the junction of Florence, Vinton and Maple Streets. The old well belonging to this homestead, with its ancient well-sweep, was on the opposite side of the street, near where now stands the beautiful and symmetrical elm tree; the spot is now covered by Florence Street, then only a pathway. This well was in use as late as 1850. John Sprague was Captain in the Militar>' Company of Mai- den, and Phineas, Ensign, in 1689; and their pre\'ious military record is given by Corey in his History of Maiden, p. 327, as follows: "John was with Maj. W'illard in 1676;" and P^hineas "was with Lieut. Hase}- in the Three Count>- Troop in 1675 and 1676; was with Maj. Williard in 1676; and with Capt. Wheeler in 1676; John was at different times, linsign. Lieuten- ant and Captain in the Military Company of Maiden. Both lohn and Phineas were of the seventy-four proprietors and freeholders who shared in the allotment of the Commons. His brother, Phineas, was a Representati\e to the General Court in 1691; and there is a record of hi.s pay as such mem- ber. He received £\0, iSs, 7d for eighteen weeks and two ^■' Middlesex Registry Deeds, Book 3, p. 207. OLD FAMILIES AND HOMESTEADS. 83 da}'s service; about two shillings per day. Quite a contrast this, to the amount paid the present members of our Legis- lature.^'' As did Capt. John Lynde, so did Phineas Sprague, keep, not as a store, but in a limited way, a certain line of goods, which he bought in considerable quantities and "bartered" with his neighbors.^^ John Sprague, son of Capt. John, was a constable of Maiden, and during his term of service it became his duty to serve, among others, the following warning, duly recorded in the Town records of 1745: To vir John Spragiic, constable of the town of Maiden, Greeting. In his magestys name you are required forthwith to warn Thankfull Burden that she forthwith depart out of this town, and that she take her child with her. and that they be not resident longer any in said town ; and make return of this warrant with 3-our doings herein to me the Subscriber. Dated in ]\Iaklen august the 26 day, 1745. By order of the Selectmen. John Shute, Town Clerk. thankfull Burden above mentioned, is warned according to the tenor of the warrant per me. John Sprague, Constable.^- Phineas Sprague, brother of John, died in 1736. He left two sons, Phineas and Samuel, to whom he bequeathed his two farms; and for Phineas he 'built, in 1720, a homestead on the spot where now stands the residence of the late Mrs. Liberty Bigelow, on West Foster Street, and to Samuel he gave the old homestead, which he afterwards deeded to his brother Phineas, in 1 761. Middlesex Deeds, book 63, p. 198. This Phineas died in 1775; and b>- his will the property passed into the possession of his son Phineas, the fourth of the name, who was born in ^'^ Sixty years later the compen- sation had not much increased as is witnessed by the following vote passed in Town Meeting in May, ^753- "Voted That the person or persons that shall be chose at this meeting to represent the town in General Court shall manifest to the town at sd meeting that he or they will draw out of the treasury the money that may become due by law to him or them for Sitting in said Court and then immediately deliver itjto the town to be for the towns use excepting two shillings and eight pence per day to a man to be at his or their own dispose and if any person or persons refuse to serve upon said condition the town to proceed to another cho3-ce or choyces." Joses Buck nam was chosen Representative for that year and upon those terms. ■'1 Bucknam, letter of July 10, 1899. •*- The practice of warning all new comers was followed in order that no one might become a " town charge." 84 • HISTORY OF MELROSE. 1725, in this West Foster Street house, where he lived and died. He had several sons, to one of whom, Jonathan, he gave the old homestead built for Phineas, the first of the name; which, having stood a hundred years, he demolished, and built the house now occupied by Mr. Hinckley. Another son was also named Phineas, the fifth of that name; but at the death of the father, Phineas, in 1805,^^ at the age of eighty years, his homestead passed into the possession of another son, Cotton Sprague, who owned it until 1830, when it was sold, and was no longer owned by the Spragues. Cotton Sprague was a prom- inent and influential citizen. He was a member of the Legis- lature for the years 1823, '24, '25 and '26. In 1S28 this place was bought by William Foster of Boston, who demolished the old house, and built the one now standing and owned by the estate of the late Mrs. Bigelow. The ver>' large, magnifi- cent elms in front of this estate are more than a century old. The eighteen acres in front of the house were purchased in 1845, by Jeremiah Martin, cut up into house lots, and are now entirely covered with buildings. Phineas seems to have been a favorite name in the Sprague families; and Phineas, the fourth, was the father of the late Captain Phineas Sprague, who was born in 1777, during the Revolution, and who built the house now standing, in 1812, on Main Street, opposite Ell Pond, in which he spent a long life, dying in 1869, at the age of ninety-two j'ears. He was a shoe manufacturer, and continued to make and carry his shoes to Boston until within the last year of his life. "He was a worthy citizen, highly esteemed and respected by all who knew him." The old homestead is now the property of Samuel H. Nowell. Samuel Sprague, one of the veterans of the Civil War, and who lost a leg at Antietam, is also a descendant of the Revo- lutionary Phineas Sprague. Phineas, the fourth, who lived on West Foster Street, was the Revolutionary patriot, of whom many interesting anec- ^^ His epitaph rau as follows: His alms with liberal heart he gave "In memory of M'' Phiuehas unto the Sons of need Sprague who died this life Decern- His memory will to ages Live her the 28 aged 80 years andomy though he be gone in deed." 1805. OLD FAMILIES AND HOMESTEADS. 85 dotes are told. He kept a diary. One record therein gives some details concerning the old couplet: In 1780, the nineteenth day of May, Will ever be remembered as being the dark day. Friday, May the 19TH 17S0. This day was the most Remarkable day that ever mj- eyes beheld the air had bin full of smoak to an uncommon degree So that wee could scairce see a mountain at two miles distance for 3 or 4 days Past till this day after Noon the smoak all went off to the South at sunset a very black bank of a cloud appeared in the south and west the Nex morning cloudey and thundered in the west about ten oclock it began to Rain and grew vere dark and at 1 2 it was allmost as dark as Nite so that wee was obliged to lite our candels and Eate our dinner by candel lite at Noon day but between i and 2 oclock it grew lite again but in the Evening the cloud caim over us again the moon was about the full it was the darkest Nite that ever was seen by us in the world. During one of the intercolonial wars between the French and English Colonies, this same Sprague furnished a substi- tute. Jan. 13, 1 761. Received of Phinehas Sprague june'r eight Pounds lawful money it being for my going a Solger to forte Cumberland and I had a promes, not of Six Pounds be fore. Pr me John Batts. When slavery existed in Massachusetts some of these old families in Melrose were slave-holders, as is witnessed by fre- quent items in the history of these old familes, and by the fol- lowing document given to this same .Sprague. Although it existed in a "mild and patriarchal form," it was real slavery, nevertheless, and human beings had a money \-alue, and were bought and sold like cattle or real estate: Know all men by these present that I. Thomas Nickels, of Reding, In the County of middlesex, gentilman for and in Consideration of the sum of thirty three pounds six shillings and Eight pence lawfull money of New England to me in hand paid by piniash Sprague, Jun of Maiden in the same County above s'' Cordwinder whereof I do hereby acknowledge the Receipt and my selfe therewith fuly and entirely satisfied have bargened sold set over and Deliverd, and by these present in plain and open markit acording to the due fourm of law in that case mad and provided do bargain set over and Deliver unto the said phinas Spraigue Jun a negro woman namd pidge with one negro boy to have and to hold to his proper use and behoofe of 86 HISTORY OF MELROSE. him the said phinas Spraigue his heirs, executors administrators and assigns for ever and I Thomas nickles for my self my heirs executors administrators and asigns ganst all in all manner of person I shall warrant and for ever Defend by these presents In witness whereof with the Deliver of the bargained persons I have set to my hand and seal the twentj'-live Day of april in the i 7 fifty-three year of y^ Raign of oure Souerign lord gorg the Second ouer grate Britton. Thomas Nichols [seal]. Signed and our Seal 1753 and Delever in the present of us. JoNA Kidder. Edward Lambert. And the following anecdote is told concerning one of his slaves: He (Phineas 3'?.) owned a number of Negroes, and made the credu- lous darkies believe that he could find out by arithmetic any mischief they had been up to. So when a neighbor made a complaint that he had reason to believe a certain negro had stolen a cart chain, he called the negro up and told him he suspected he had been doing wrong, and unless he owned up. he (Phineas 3''.) should figure it out. There being no confession, he would then take his chalk and board and sit down to cipher. In a few moments he would musingly say, " links three inches long ; links three inches long, what does that mean ?" Then turning to his " boy " he would say, " Pomp, " or whatever his name might be, " Pomp, 3'ou have been stealing sausages." Pomp, astonished at such arithmetic, would say, •' no, Massa, me no steal sassage, me steal cart chain." 34 Concerning his military life we have the following: Although somewhat advanced in life, and being quite deaf, when the Revolutionary War broke out, and the call was made for the "minute-men," he joined the Maiden Company, under Captain Nayler Hatch, which went first to Beacham's Point, and then in the night, to Concord and Lexington. Mr. Sprague's " heart was as impervious to fear, as his ears were to sound;"' and when the rest of his comrades were flying from the view of the enemy, he was seen upon a piece of rising ground swinging his hat. and shouting victory .35 In the Centenial year, 1875, an anonymous communication in the Melrose Jounial, " Melrose in the Concord Fight," ga\'e this additional item concerning his Revolutionary history: That day was made glorious by the courage and patriotism of the yeomanry of old Middlesex, and it is fit and proper that Concord and ^■* Letter to Artenias Barrett from '^ Thauksgiviug discourse at Mal- Samuel Poor, June 1876. den, Dec. i, 1831, by Rev. S. Osgood Wright, p. 24. OLD FAMILIES AND HOMESTEADS. 87 Lexintrton should send greetings to the other towns of Middlesex County, and in\-ite them to be represented on the occasion of the one- hundredth anni\'ersary of the most creditable events of American history. Melrose (at that time known as North Maiden) was but a small hamlet of a score or two of dwellings, and perhaps but a score or two of men capable of bearing arms; but some of them, on hearing of the march of the British to Concord, left their work, took their arms, w^ent across to intercept them, and did noble service to the cause of freedom. Among others was Sprague, a grandfather of the late Capt. Phineas Sprague of Melrose, and a worthy by the name of Edmunds, whose names have come down to the writer by tradition. Sprague, ownmg a gun, took it with him. Edmunds had no arms ; but when they arrived at the scene of the conflict, . Edmunds, having recon- noitered, discovered a British soldier prowling away from the main body of his comrades, and borrowed the gun from his neighbor Sprague and went for him. When he encountered the soldier they both tired at each other at the same time, and both remained unhurt. They then reloaded their pieces ; but the Britisher, having a cartridge, was the first to load and fire, and missing his opponent took to his heels. Edmunds, loading his piece from a powder horn, required more time, but when his flying opponent mounted a stone wall in his retreat, he, with a well directed shot, brought him to the ground, securing as trophies a good king's arm and his other accoutrements, also, what was undoubtedly very acceptable, the rations the soldier brought from Boston. Thus were two of our country's heroes well armed, and from the accounts that tradition has brought to us, they bore them- selves bravely through the day, being in the thickest of the fray. This same communication relates the following concerning a later experience of Mr. Sprague, when he and others made an effort to cross Mystic River during the progress of the battle of Bunker Hill, but were prevented by an English vessel in the river: At low water there was a foot-way to the channel and a boat to cross with. Mr. Sprague, who was quite deaf but very courageous, was determined to go over, and when on his way he was shot at from the vessel. He several times dared them to fire, and they shot several nine-pound balls at him, which missed and were lodged in the bank of the river. He afterward dug one of them out and said he wanted to keep it to remember the devils by. That ball was in the possession of the writer for a long time but it has disappeared. One of the sons of this Phineas, was Dr. John Sprague, who was born January 13, 1754, in the old Foster Street homestead, but became a resident of Maiden Centre, where he practiced 88 HISTORY OF MELROSE. medicine for thirty years.^*' He served as surgeon's mate in Col. Ebenezer Bridge's Regiment, in the early part of the Revolutionary War; entered the naval service as surgeon, was taken prisoner in 1777. After being exchanged, he again became a surgeon in the navy, was again taken prisoner, carried to Kinsale, on the coast of Ireland, detained until the winter of 1781-2, when he was released. The following is a copy of his discharge, the original of which is in the possession of his grandson, Charles H. Sprague, of Maiden: To all Whom it may Concern. These are to certify That the Bearer, John Sprague an American Prisoner of War, late Surgeon on board the Thomas Merchant Vessel, is set at Liberty Pursuant to an Order from the Hon'ble Commissioners for Sick and Wounded Seamen and for Exchanging Prisoners of War. Dated at Their Office on Tower Hill London, The Thirteenth Day of November Jnstant. Civen under my hand this Twenty Second Day of November 1781 J NO Howe Agent for Prisoners of War, at Kinsale. He once more entered the service as surgeon and remained until the close of the war. He practiced medicine in Maiden until his death, October 2t, 1803. He was a man of strong passion, and quite a wag, withal. The late Artemas Barrett, whose grandmother was a sister of Ur. Sprague, relates the following: Several years ago the writer met with Capt. John Smith, a retired gentleman in Boston, a native of Maiden, who remembered Dr. Sprague very well and said he was a highly esteemed citizen and a very skillful physician, that when he was born Dr. Sprague attended his mother and said in a merry way if she would name the hoy for him lie would give him a sheet of gingerbread, so his mother in a merr}- mood named him John. Capt. Smith furtlier said that Dr. Sprague had such a lucrative practice it brought a rival to Maiden, a Dr. Goss from Cape Cod to compete with him for the patronage. The mode of traveling in those times was on horseback with a pillion behind the saddle on which the wife could ride. Dr. (loss staid awliile and not succeeding was obliged to leave the town or starve. Soon after his departure Dr. Sprague wrote a poem which he posted m thu *' The name Phiueas is still in Dr. John Spra<j;ne's son John, l)orn evidence in the Sprague family! in 1781, was Town Treasurer of OLD FAMILIES AND HOMESTEADS. 89 public places in Maiden. Capt. Smith repeated the poem, but the following verse is all that I remember : Doctor Goss mounted his horse And took his wife behind him He's gone to Cape Cod so far from God It would puzzle the devil to find him. It is characteristic of the Sprague's to abound with wit, humor and good nature. Mr. Barrett also relates the following concerning two sons of Dr. John Sprague: A few years ago the writer had occasion to write a letter to one of Phineas Sprague's grandsons, Peter S. Sprague, an old gentleman nearly ninety years of age, living in Greenfield, Mass., and received a reply through the mail directing it with the following superscription covering the whole of one side of the en\'elope : To the Postmaster. Now this letter I wish to have Go down (before it stops) unto my native town Where once I counted my good friends by dozens Besides some thirty yea some forty cousins And now then I'll direct you further still Its five or six miles north of Bunker Hill If yet you cannot see Sir where this goes Send to Artemas Barrett of Melrose. On the other side of the envelope was written the following : You see that I am far from hQm% green Though of this fact the public's not aware Well many a flower's born to blush unseen And waste its sweetness on the desert air. Here is exhibited the peculiar bent of mind running in his father's family. John Sprague, his brother, lived and died in Maiden. In early life he was a shoemaker, afterwards a merchant, and became one of Maiden's most substantial, wealthy and honored citizens, holding many offices of trust. Early in the present century he connected him- self with the Baptist church. Difficulties soon arose in that church about settling a minister, who bore the title of Elder, in which he took part. In 1812 he wrote a brief history of the trouble and published it in pamphlet form which is now extant bearing this title : T/ie \ History \ of I Wars and Fightings \ [ Without Shedding of Blood.] \ in the \ Bap- tist Chiireh, \ in Ma/den. \ Written by \ fohn Sprague, Sh., Mah., \ One of the Metnbers. \ Together With Some Poetry Never \ Before Published. Maiden many years, and father of ren, born in i860, has a son Phineas Charles Hill Sprague, born in 1827, vShaw Sprague, born in 1901. still living. His son, Phineas War- 90 HISTORY OF MELROSE. This title indicates the style of the work. He commences with the following original : My heart's desire is, and I'll pray The elder and the deacon may Have all their wickedness forgiven And cease to sin, and seek for Heaven. And when their lines they do look over, And see they've sinn'd against Jehovah O may they on their knees fall down, Confess to God, lest he should frown. Now may the Lord, who dwells on high Forgive their sins, and pass them by. That through the Saviour's love and merit, The\' may eternal life inherit. Dr. John Sprague's brother William, also served in the Revolutionary War. He was in the Lexington alarm, 1775 ; in eight months' service with Capt. N. Hatch, Lieut.-Col. Bond, 1775: with Capt. B. Blaney in Point Shirley exp., Jmie, 1776; drafted and marched for Horse Neck, with Capt. John Walton, Col. Brooks, Sept. 26, 1776; in Rhode Island service with Capt. Stephen Dana, Col. Whitney, Ma}-Jiily, 1775; lost on armed brigantine "Massachusetts," 1770. How he went from home with " his maits " and never returned may best be told in the quaint words of his father, Phineas Sprague:^' William Sprague being in the twenty seacon year of his age Shiped himself with a number more of his maits on board the massachuset Brig so called Bound to France with 14 carige gunes and a Hundred men — the Nex Nite after She Sailed a Voilent Storm of Snow caim on and Nothing of them could wee ever Hear of them Since tho it is Now above three years Since he took his leive of us and Bid us Fair well.:^^ The original way of tra\"elling- from these Sprague houses to Maiden Centre, was in a pathwa)' which was nearly on a line of the present Cleveland Street, crossing Spot Pond Brook, thence over the Lynde farm to what is now Wash- ington Street, the present " backroad " to Maiden. The Greens. As were the Lyndes, almost the sole pro- prietors of what is now the southern territory of Melrose, so were the Greens, for a long while during the early years, settlers and owners of what is now the Melrose Highlands, ^' Corey, //isfory 0/ Jl/a/i/c'?i, S05, -'^ From Diary of Phineas Sprague 829. now lost. OLD FAMILIES AND HOMESTEADS. 91 and a large part of Greenwood, in Wakefield, which, doubt- less, received its name from that family; their land also ex- tended westerly into Stoneham as far as Doleful Pond. Then came another of the older families, the Vintons, who, inter- marrying with the Greens, in process of time came to possess a large part of the Highlands territory; holding it until about the time the Boston and Maine Railroad was built, in 1845, when, during the next few years, the land ownership almost wholly passed from both families into the possession of the fast growing population of that part of Melrose. Only a small portion of the original Green land is now owned by any one of that name. The family of the late Aaron Vinton, a great-great-grandson of the original settler, Thomas Vinton, still owns and cultivates a small farm, situated on the north- erly side of Howard Street, near the Saugus line. The first settler in these Highlands was Thomas Green ;^^ who was born in England about 1606, came to America in 1635, and to Maiden as early as October 28, 165 1, when his wife Elizabeth, and daughter bearing the same name, together with thirtj^-four others signed a petition to the General Court, in be- half of Maiden's minister. Rev. Marmaduke Matthews, praying for an excuse for some of his errors and failings. He was one of the Selectmen of Maiden in 1653 and 1658, and serv^ed many times on the Grand Jury of the County of Middlesex. He came into possession of his farm at the Highlands in the following manner: Thomas Coytmore, who first settled in Charlestown, where he became quite an extensive land-owner, and where he was a Selectman, and Representative to the General Court, and who built the mill at Mystic Side in 1640, before spoken of, came into possession of one hundred and fifty acres of land King north of Ell Pond. The following order gives the onlv instance known where the name of our ^^ " In view of our recent rapid growth, and the evidences of youth on every hand, it is hard to believe that in the days when Oliver Crom- well was marching at the head of his victorious legions, and all Europe trembled at his voice, with- in the sound of your curfew, and upon this very street, [Franklin] Thomas Green was living in peace and in comparative security, saving from the ever present danger of the lurking and wily savage." Address of Hon. Levi S. Gould, at the Annual Banquet of the High- lands Congregational Church in 1897. 92 HISTORY OF MELROSE. Pond is given as Elme, as it is here in the margin, but not in the body of the order: 1648 Ordered to lay out young The 2oth day of the ^d of March it was agreed Tlios. Coitmore's -^ , rr^, t • 1 two lots by Elme Pond, to entreat of Bros. Robt. Hale and Thomas Lind to lay out young Thos. Coitmore's two lots by Ell pond, he to send one to go with them to help them. Coytmore died in 1648. His widow married first, Gov. John Winthrop; and after his death in 1649, ^^i*^ married John Cogan, of Boston, and they came into possession of these one hundred and fifty acres. Four years later, in 1653, John and Martha Cogan sold and deeded one-half of this farm to Thomas Green.**^ He built his homestead, a block house, on THlv OLD JOHN GRHKX PI.ACK. what is now the centre of Pratt .Street, half\va>- between the present Franklin Street and Highland Avenue. It was built strongh', and used as a garrison and place of refuge in times of trouble between the early settlers of that region and the Indians. This old house was demolished about the year 1800, and a new one built nearby, on the old Count>' road, now the *" I have iu my possession the tains some curiousl}- expressed original, quaintly spelled, and conditions, time-stained indenture. It con- OLD FAMILIES AND HOMESTEADS. 93 PLATTERS AND WINE GLASSES. corner of Franklin and Sargent Streets, where now stands the house of Mrs. R. ]\I. Taylor. This house was moved a few rods back and now stands on Howie Court. It has received alterations and improvements. This group of two large pewter platters and two wine glasses, belonged to the original Thomas Green, and were brought by him from Eng- land. He was a passenger on the ship Paull, which sailed from London, and arrixed in V^irginia, Juh' 6, 1635. There were originally fourof these platters. These two ha\e descended from generation to generation, and were the property of the late Mrs. Dexter Pratt, of Melrose Highlands, a de- scendant of the eighth gen- eration. Mrs. Pratt, (//r^-' Abigail Southwick) was born on the old Green farm, about a dozen rods from where she resided at the time of her death. Thomas Green bequeathed his farm to his sons, Capt. William and Henr\', one-half each. William was made freeman in 1668; was member of the Maiden Church, Captain of a Military Company, and Selectman of Maiden for the years 1678, 1683 and 1702. William sold his half to his brother .Samuel in 1670, and from that time Samuel occupied " the old mansion house." In 1684, he bought the other half of the farm of his brother Henr\'. When "The Commons" were about to be divided among the freeholders of Maiden the following \-ote concerning this property was passed at a Town Meeting held May 18, 1694: "That Samuel Green shall Injoy his hous and y*" land y' stands on, and so much land about It as y^ Commite shall se cause to lay to It;" and when the divi- sion was mack' the ne.xt )'ear, another reference to it was made when describing lot No. 64, of "The Commons:" "Part east against Redding Rhode and part on y^ west of y^ Green's farm." Afterwards this homestead reverted to John Green, son of William. He was a selectman of .Stoneham in 1735. This was after this part of North Maiden had been set off to Stoneham, 94 HISTORY OF MELROSE. which, years later, came back to Melrose. John's will men- tions his son John, who has " my dwelling-house and farm and the land adjoining, that h'eth on the west side of the country road that leadeth from Maiden to Reading, that was my grand- father's; " and son Jonas has " all my land on the east of the country road aforesaid." He built thereon a house, just this side of the Wakefield line, on Main Street, which disappeared a few years since. John Green left his property to his son John, who be- queathed it to his only son John, who was a bachelor. Be- fore the death of the latter, he de\'ised it to William Green, or, more truly to his wife, Abigail Green, who li\ed with him many years, says the ]'inton Genealogy, and took care of him ,in his old age, till the very end. At the death of Abigail Green, Nov. 6, 1848, she left the propert}' to her sister Sarah, widow of Aaron Green, who was a descendant in the fifth gen- eration from the original Thomas, by another line. At her death the property went to her daughter Abigail, who married Edmund B. Southwick. This daughter, Abigail, was the sister of the late Aaron Green, who was born in the old Lynde house, on Russell Street, March 14, 1802, and who died April 23, 1882, eighty-two years of age. Mr. Green served sex^eral years as one of the Assessors of Melrose; was also on the School Committee. There were other descendants of the original Thomas Green, who li\'ed on other farms on the territory first Charlestown, then Maiden, then Stoneham, and then JNIelrose. Others li\'ed in Maiden proper. Onl}' the ownership of the homestead of the first settler is here traced. In 1682, John, Henry and Samuel Green, bought of Thomas Robinson and John Floyd, the northerh' part of a farm north of Ell Pond, bounded easterly b}- the "Redding highway, northerl}' and westerl)- on the Common land southerly b)- y*^ said Greens land."-^' It was in what is now Melrose High- lands. On this farm was iDuilt the homestead for John Green. Henr\' Green's farm and house was situated near tlie corner of Franklin and Vinton Streets, and it afterward passed into the possession of the Vintons. Isaac, son of above Samuel, had his homestead on w hat is now Ashland Street, a few r(-)ds south of Franklin Street. In 1758, he sold his estate to Thomas and ^^ Middlesex Deeds, liook 8, pp. 301-2. OLD FAMILIES AND HOMESTEADS. 95 Hannah Vinton. Hannah was Isaac's daughter. The farm consisted of nineteen acres, and was " bounded northerly and northeasterly by a Lane that goes from my dwelling house to the Count}' Road." This lane is now Ashland Street, and the County road Franklin Street. Another Isaac Green, a grandson of Thomas, lived about half a mile west of the Highlands Station. He was a Select- man of Stoneham in the }'ears of 1745, '53, and '58. Thg following is a cop\' of a unique receipt he ga\e on account of an indebtedness: Malden, July 3-e 20th i-j^g, Recei\'ed of Benoni \'inton of Maiden the sum of fiftj' pounds Lawful! nione}- being in full on all accounts debts dues & Demands due or pa}-able from him to me from the beginning of the world to this da}-. Reed by me Isaac Greex. Test Jonathan Green. Among these other descendants were the following who lived in Stoneham: Deacon Joseph Green, whose farm was near where the Highlands Station now is. He was a Select- man of Stoneham in 1747, '49, '54, '5 and '8. April 16, 1770, he sold half of his farm to Thomas Vinton, and April 15, 1777, the other half to Ezra Vinton, a brother of Thomas; Captain Josiah Green, who was born in 1735, and lived on the county road from Stoneham to L}'nn about three-quarters of a mile west of the Highlands Station, on Howard Street. He was Selectman 1781, '6, '7, 1791 and '92. His first wife, Elizabeth Green, died in 1798, having borne him eight children. He then, at the age of 64, married Sarah Skinner, a woman twent}'- two years of age, and forty-two years younger than himself. She also bore him eight children. The Vinton Genealogy sa}'s concerning this Captain Green: A most remarkable family ' \Miere can a parallel be found? Eight children born after the father had passed his sixty-rtfth year! Rebecca, the youngest, born in her father's seventy-ninth year ! Some twelve or more of his great-grandchildren older than some of his children ! Three daughters named Sarah, two living at the same time! On the 27'h of April, 1S06, Josiah Green had a daughter Susanna, a grand- daughter Paulina Bucknam, and a great grandchild, all born on the same day ! The same accoucheur. Dr. Hart of South Reading, and the same women attended in all three cases ! ! ! This is reported on good authority. Many descendants of Thomas Green settled in Maiden 96 HISTORY OF MELROSE. proper, and attained prominence in civic, town and military affairs. In the will of one of them, Deacon Daniel Green, grandson of Thomas, born in i68i, he bequeathed to his wife Mary, his " negro woman and children." Another grandson, Jacob, born in 1689, kept a diary, or "book of memorabilia: Jacob Green, his Writing Book," which is still preserv-ed. It is a small leather-bound volume, 3^17 by 6 inches, containing about 140 pages. It is mostly in the handwriting of Jacob, but partly in that of his son. Rev. Jacob Green. A great-grandson of Thomas was William Green, born in 1683. He was a carpenter. As a curiosity a copy of the con- tract for building a school-house is here gi\'en: Artecles of agrement made an Concluded between ye Select men of Maldon and William Green of y^ sd town carpender Referring two y^ bulding of a school house for y^ sd Town of Maldon \^ demen- tions and conditions are as foloeth : Viz : That y^ sd William Green doath Covenant and agree with ye sd Select men to Buld ahous to keep school in for ye town of Mal- don ye dementions are as foloeth ; viz ; Twenty foots in Lenght and sixteen foots in bredth six foots between joynts and Buld a Chimne in sd hous nere seven foots between ye gams and Lay a harth in sd Chimne and cover sd hous tite with Boords Rough and Sides — and Shingel ye Rough of sd hous and two Lay one flower and two make it with crooked beams Riseing two foots at ye Lest for Roufe 4 beems, and Ribed upon sd beems as may be suflfistient and Brick ye wals to ye plaets and make two windores one on ye South and ye other on ye Est and make ye dower of plain Boords. Sd house being Studed about 3 foots asunder and two tind all for sd house so fer as has bin mentioned and two set it wher ye towne shall agree and to under pin sd house. And ye above sd select men dou promis and agree in behaef of ye Town of maldon to pay or case to be paid unto ye above sd William Green 19 pounds for ye above said woork and where with all to do ye same as foloeth ; 5 pounds and twelve shillings in Boords and ye Remainder in money as ye woork shall go forward. And sd woork to be don forthwith, by ye 20 of Aprill next ye woork is to be competed, as ye seson will alowe all such Artikels and agreements to be performed by booth partys in Wittness whare of thay have here unto set thare hands this 27 clay of October 171 2 and in ye elevent yere of her Majest's Reign Queen Anne. William Green, Henry Green, ") Thos. Newhall, ! o 1 ^ - Selectmen. Samll Sprague, I John Green J OLD FAMILIES AND HOMESTEADS. 97 As has been seen, this original Green farm was situated first in Charlestovvn, then in Maiden, then set off to Stoneham, and then, in 1853, it was set off to Melrose; and it was in the pos- session of the Greens for over two centuries. The late Elbridge Green, who built the house now standing at No. 467 Main Street, was the son of Reuben, a descendant of the sixth generation from the original Thomas Green. He was born in i8li,and died Feb. 21, 1898, aged eighty-seven years. He held several town offices. He was the first Town Clerk after Melrose was incorporated. He served as Modera- tor at one Town Meeting, as Assessor for three years, and was on the School Committee two or three years. He was an upright and exemplary citizen; "a gentleman of the old school." There are still Green descendants living at the Highlands; among them Levi W. Green, of the seventh generation, now- living on Franklin Street, whose father, Peter Green, lived on " Green Lane," now Orris Street; some of this land is still owned by the Greens. Another is Mrs. Emily G. Cochrane, daughter of the late Aaron Green, and mother of Mau- rice G. Cochrane, formerK- one of our Park Commission- ers. Captain Jonathan Green, of " Green Lane," now Orris Street, was of the fourth gen- eration from Thomas. He was a leading man in Stone- ham for many years; cap- tain of a military company-; Selectma'n twenty years; Town Clerk and Treasurer twenty -five years; member of the Convention assem- bled in Boston, in 1788, to ratify the Constitution of the United States. His farm contained 215 acres. His house, still standing, and occupied b\- a descendant, is near *- This unique corner closet contains many of the old china and "other faniilv heir-looms." JR AND CORNER BII'FKT. 98 HISTORY OF MELROSE. the line between Melrose and Stoneham. It was built early in the i8th century, and has been occupied 1d_\' five genera- tions of Jonathan Greens. Tradition says that the builder utilized one end of his house for a while as a barn. Captain Green kept a diar\' of the most important events that occurred during the years from 1738 to 1745, wherein he recorded the various house and barn raisings, the going to Lynn for shad, the fact that he " Went to Nahant for a frolick," and that " My Sheepskin Breeches made up;" also " My Green fustian Cote & Gold trimed Jacket made up." Some of the more important events are thus recorded: 1738 Jul}' I Bought our Negro. 1 740 July 9 Proclamation for volunteers posted and Bees honey melted down in y^ hi\-e. Sept I Mr. Whittield precht at Boston. 1 741 June 15 Chose our Son Representative [Samuel Green.] Sept. 20 A Cattemont seen at Maiden. 1743 June 22 Unyousal worms seen at Cha^- which devoured grass and Indian & English Corn. Jul}' 3 They were seen in Jabez Green's tield. Aug 5 A fast Kept at Maiden on ye account of y^ worms. Aug 27 Thanksgi\ing day at Maiden on y^ account of ye de- parture of ye worms yt eat ye grass. Nov. 22 Remarkable high tides So high that it carried away >2 ye Stacks on ye Marsh Some it carried over ye Causey at Charlestown neck of land. " 31 A Bear Killed in Ephraim Browns Swamp in Stoneham by about 16 Men. 1744 April 7 James Hay bought his Molatto Negro aged 8 yrs. June 3 Sabbath 1 )ay ye Earthquakes heard 3 times ye first time a very hard Shake so y> ye Stone wall fel Down in many places. June 28 Fast in this pro\ince on ye account of ye french war. [This was the French and Indian War of 1744-47. Capt. Green afterwards speaks of " lirst training to List A'olunteers to go. none listed."] Pre\ious to the time of setting off the tc-n families li\-ing on the territory- now Cireenwood to Reading, in 1727, some (^f those living on territory' farther south, now Melrose, were dissatisfied with their Church privileges; and Ma}' 15, 1722, it is recorded: John Green Att y farms [the original homestead at the Highlands] Sam.' (rreen Jonathan barritt [between Cpham and I'orter Streets] OLD FAMILIES AND HOMESTEADS. 99 And seueral othars 5-' petision"^ with Them : doe desier : Abatement on Ther ministars Reates : bj- Reson as the)- sa}- They doe Hue more conuenant To Go [to] Reding- meting Then To maiden meting : It was putt To vote To see whethar y^ Town will abate Those peti- tionars The one half of There ministars Reates. And it past in y^ negitiue : And just before the division was made this action was taken: it was put to vote whether the Town will have two meating houses in this Town and y^ vote was past in ye negetive. it was put to vote whether y^ Town will Alow y^ people in ye north Eand of this Town some monej' to help them to provid themselve with preaching in y« winter sesons and it past in ye negetive But a little later, May 22, it was voted: that ye tenn famelys y^ ha\'e petioned to be Laid off from this Town, unto ye Town of Reding, have Liberty to goe to Reding with there Estates Acording to their petion. This left the Greens of the woods, Barretts, Uphams and others still unaccommodated and with rates unabated; and yet many years were they necessitated to go to Maiden centre for town and church privileges. The Barretts. All the Maiden and Melrose Barretts descended from James Barrett, who was born in England in i6i5,came to New England in 1635, and settled in Charles- town. His name does not appear among those who were admitted freemen; but the Charlestown Records of 1643, state that "James Barrett was admitted Townsman ' with manifesta- tion y' he is not to expect an}- allotm' of land.' " By industry and enterprise he accumulated considerable property; and there are upon record many conveyances of real estate to and from him. In a deed to Peter Tufts in 1653 he is called *' Plantor." His farm was in Mystic Side, in that portion of it now the city of Exerett, not far from where the Flastern Rail- road crosses the main street from Maiden to Boston. In 1656, he was chosen Highway Surveyor in Charlestown, for Mystic Side. There were some curious law-suits in those early da^vs. James Barrett became involved in two, and the following account of the same is found in the County Court Records, \ol. I, pp. 149, 241. Thc>' show the somewhat peculiar and effecti\e manner in which justice was administered in those ot 100 HISTORY OF MELROSE. early days, and the method of paying fines, as ordered by the Court, in the products as well as the currency of the country. In 1657 James Barrett, on Lord's day turned off his field some cattle belong- ing to George Knower, into the lane or road. He was met by Knower, as he was letting down the bars, who struck him a severe blow with a stake. Barrett, in self defence, drew blood on Knower's face. It being not only a violation of the law, but a breach of the Sabbath, it therefore became a matter of legal animadversion. The verdict was as follows: George Knower being convicted of Breach of the Sabbath and also of the peace of the Comon Wealth by striking James Barrett on the Lord's day is fined by this Court thirty shillings and to pay cost of Court. James Barrett for like offence by him committed in Striving with and fetching blood on Knower is fined twenty shillings and to pay costs of Court. These fines to be P^' in corne Porccouable in all mann"" graine as the country rate at y^ same prises. The other was a case of slander, brought by James Barrett and William Luddington, against Mar>- Tufts of Maiden, in 1660. It appears by the evidence, that Peter Tufts of Maiden, had beaten and abused his man Henry Swillaway, who went to Barrett and Lud- dington and told his tale and cried. They being kind hearted men sympathised with him. This case was brought into Court they appear- ing as evidence in his behalf. That led Mary Tufts, wife of Peter, in her indignation to utter the following words — Viz. — "That none Spake against husband at the court but the Skines of the Country, and liars, and them that did not care what they said." P'or the utter- ance of these words a suit of Slander was instituted. In the Middlesex Court Records, vol. i, p. 200, is recorded this severe and mortifying sentence: The Jury brought in their verdict, finding for the Plaintif damages ten shillings apeece, & an acknowledgemt to be made by the deff' at Mauldon vpon the Lords day in the after noone, within the space of thirty dayes next ensueing, and to be made after the publicke exccise is ended, before the congregation depart in mannr following, viz', in these words. That whereas J Mary Tufts am legally convicted of slandering & wronging James Barrat & William Luddington, or any other whom my words might reflect vpon, by speaking Rashly, irregu- larly, & sinfully, J am heartily sorry, ^r doe desire to be humbled for the same, & in case of non observance to doe as above is prmised either to pay ye said ten shill. apeece, or makeing such acknowl- OLD FAMILIES AND HOMESTEADS. 101 edgem* both for mann' & time: the Jury do find that ye deft' shall pay vnto ye pts fifty shill apeece, & costs of Court, thirty one shill. & two pence. James Barrett died in 1672. His son James, born in 1644. settled at the north end of Boston, near Copp's Hill, and his son James, born in 1672, came into possession of his grand- father's farm at M\'stic Side. He became a prominent man in Maiden, serving as Selectman for several years, and acting on many important committees. Among his possessions was a saw-mill at Spot Pond. The Bi-Ccntennial Book of Maiden, has the following items connected with this James Barrett: In 1 70S, April 2, Deacon Greenland has liberty to build a pew. It was voted at that time, '" That if janies Baret will make up the twenty aight shillings, which the town is in detted to him for worke at the meting house, forty shillings, then he shall have as conveneant seat in the meting hous as his naberas have." Among other necessary appendages of an old-fashioned meeting-house in New England were the horse-blocks and stables. The first notice we find of these in Maiden, is under date of Dec. 9, 1698; it was voted "that Trj-all Nubry, Simon Grovar, Samuell Bucknam, william pain, james Barrit, and John Greenland, hath the priveleg of a peece of land of 24 foots long and 9 foots wide, from ye South west corner of ye parsonage garding westwardly along by }e stone wall. Granted them by a town vote, for to set a stable to shelter their horses on the Sabath days.'' Deacon Jonathan Barrett, a brother of James, born in 1678, was also a Selectman of Maiden for many years, ser\-ed on numerous committees, and was many times Moderator of the Town Meetings. These two brothers took opposite sides in the long and bitter contest in Maiden, which grew out of the location for the new meeting-house, which was final!}- settled by building it on the spot where now stands the Universalist Church of Maiden. Deacon Barrett came to North Maiden about the year 1700, and his farm and home- stead was situated on the " East Side;" the house being about half-way between Upham and Porter Streets. Its site, with the stone filled cellar-hole, still exists. It is on the highest rise, a little way to the west of School Street; and the newly laid out Lincoln Street, running from Porter to Upham, now only par- tiall}- built from Porter, when extended through to Upham Street, will pass directl>' through it; thus obliterating all traces of the original Barrett homestead. In 17 14, Mr. Barrett was one of the petitioners for the laying out of Upham Street. 102 HISTORY OF MELROSE. Porter Street was then called Barrett Lane. He was one of the Selectmen of Maiden for the years 1725, '26, '31, '36, '37, '38, '39, '40, and '44. He died in 1 749, aged seventy-two years- He made an interesting will, ^,^ ^^ /2 a portion of which follows: hC tOlC/tjaM. ^J^^^^^'^^"^^ In the name of God Amen, the twenty six day of August one thousand seven hundred and forty nine I Jonathan Barrett of Maiden County of Middlesex in the Province of Mass's Bay in New England yeoman being very sick and weak in Body But of perfect mind and memory thanks be given to God for it therefore calling to mind the mortality of my Body and Knowing that it is appointed for all men once to die, Do make and ordain this my Last Will and Testament, that is to say Principally and first of all I give and Recomend my Soul into the hands of God that gave it and my Body I Recomend to the Earth to be buried in a decent Christian Burial at the Discretion of mj' Execuf nothing doubting but at the General Resureition I shall receive the same again hy the mighty Power of God and as Touching such worldly Estate wherewith it hath pleased God to Bless me in this Life I give Demise and dispose of the same in the following manner and form. Item. I give and Bequeath unto Rebecca my Dearly beloved wife the improvement of w\y East Lower Room of my Dwelling house and Chamber over the same and one third part of the cellar during her natural Life, with free Liberty of coming at the same as occasion shal call for : I do gi\'e her the impro\-ement of one third part of my house- hold goods within doors : and the Improvement of two of my best Cows to be kept for her Winters and Summers yearly and every year by my Executers during her natural Life I also give her two bushels of Malt two barrels cyder three bushels of Rye nine bushels Indian Corn ground and brought into her house the cyder and grain to be provided 3'early and every }'ear seasonably during her natural Life by my Executors I also give to her six cords of good wood to be cut and split and brought Seasonably to her door tit for her fire I also give her five bushels of Apples two bushels Turnips half bushel carrots and half bushel of white beans fourscore pounds Pork and seventy pounds Beef four pounds hackled fiax and four pounds Sheeps Wool all to be provided yearly and every 3-ear by my Executors during her natural Life Also Ten pounds Money per year during her Life Likewise that she shall be carried to meeting when she is able and desirous to attend the same*'^ all abo\'e mentioned to be performed eaqualy be- *'^ lu several of the wills of the for her i^his wife) to ride ou to inenibers of these old families, the meeting as she may have occasion following phrase or its equivalent, while she remains a widow." often occurs: "also a horse suitable OLD FAMILIES AND HOMESTEADS. 103 tween my two Executors. The ten pounds money above mentioned is to be understood in the old Tenor. . . . Item I give and bequeath unto my beloved son Joseph Barrett whom I Likewise constitute make and ordain my Executor of this my last will and Testament two thirds of my Mansion House that is the Remaininsj- part of it that I have not given to my \\\it together with the Remainder of my Buildings. I also give him all the Remainder of my lands that I have not given to my son James abo\-e mentioned b}- him to be freely possesed and en- joyed and to be at his disposal forever. ... As for my Negro Isrial my Will is that he shall serve my son Joseph Barrett faithfully Six }-ears and after that term of time is expired he shall be free and that my Son Joseph shall give Bond that he be not a Town charge.-*-^ As is seen by this will, Jonathan's son Joseph came into possession of the old homestead and its farm. At this time slavery existed in Massachusetts, and Joseph Barrett became the possessor of two slaves; one by inheritance by his father's will, and the other through the action of the town of Maiden, as is seen by the following; from the Maldoi Records: Maiden Feb'; the yt'i 1755, be it known that ^^'hereas the selectmen of said town have put a mulatto child that has been latly laid at the dore of ann welcome to me Joseph Barrett of said town giving me fifty two pounds ten shillings old tenor with said child I the said Joseph Barrett do promis for me and my heirs to indemnify and clear the said town from any charge that may arise upon the account of said child so long as it maybe made a slave to me my heirs or to them that I or my heirs shall assign said child too. in witness whereof I have hereunto put \\\\ hand Joseph Barrett. In connection with this transaction the town passed this vote two }'ears later: 1757. :May i6th \'oted. That the town doe alow to An \^'ellcom ten pounds old tenor to be laid out in repairing her Shatterd habitation and that on the account of her nursing a child eight weeks that was laid at the dore of her house, i 737, June 6, Voted, that the selectmen shall take care that said money be laid out for that puipose. This Ann Welcome was a nei^ress, whose little cabin thus repaired, stood under the side of the hill on the northerly side of Salem Street, Maiden, near the line between Maiden and Revere, at the point known as " Black Ann's Corner." The slave Israel, which he inherited, was to serve him six *' Probate Records, Cambridge, Book 26, p. 3. 104 HISTORY OF MELROSE. years. Wishing to learn a trade he was bound out to Joseph's brother, Jacob, by the following instrument: This Indenture witnesseth that whereas Deacon Jona. Barrit, late of Maiden, deceased ordered in his last will and Testament yt his Negroman Survent Isrial should serve his son, Joseph Barrit faithfully for ye space of six years after ye decease of ye above sd Testator, of which time there being Two years Past the sd Negro being desirous of Larning \(t Trade and art of a Cooper which his sd master. Joseph Barritt complied with and b}' these Presents Puts and Binds the above sd Negroman a Prentice unto Jacob Barritt of the town of Lancaster in the County of Worcester and Pro\ince of Massachusetts Bay in New England Miller and the sd apprentice to serve him and wife from 5'e Day of ye Date hereof for and during the full term of fore years next during all which time ye sd apprentice his sd master and mistress faithfully shall serve, there secrets keep, their lawful commands gladly everj'where obey. He shall do no damage to his sd master nor his mistress nor see it to be done by others without Letting or giving notice thereof to his sd master or mistress Goods or Lend them unlawfulh- to any one, he shall not Commit Fornication nor contract matrimony within sd term. At Cards or Dice or any other unlawful Game he shall not play, whereby his said master or mistress may be damaged, with his own Goods nor the goods of others he shall not absent himself Day or Night from his masters or mistress services without their Leave nor haunt ale-houses taverns or pla}- houses. But in all things behave himself as a faithful Apprentice ought to do during said term. And the sd master and mistress shall use ye utmost of their Endeavors to teach and instruct the said apprentice in the trade and mj'ster}- of a Cooper and procure and provide for him sulificient meat drink apparel washing and loging fitting for an apprentice during ye sd term and at the expiration of 3'e sd Term return ye sd Apprentice as well clothed as at present to yt above sd master Joseph or his heirs who shall by these presents be obliged to receive the sd apprentice and clear the sd Jacob Barrit and his Heirs from all charges yt may arise after his time is out with him and for the true performance of every part of the sd covenants and agreements, either of ye Parties Bind themselves to the other by these presents in witness whereof they have Interchangeably put their hands and seals this seventh day of September Anno Domini one Thousand seven Hundred and tifty-one and in the Twenty-fifth year of his Majesties Reign. Joseph Barrett. Eren H.vrnden. Jacob Barrett. Samuel Spraoue. Joseph Barrett died in 1 758. His son Joseph, after becom- ing of age, bought the (del homestead, built by his grandfather, OLD FAMILIES AND HOMESTEADS. 105 Jonathan, of the other heirs. In 1781, he bout^dit an adjoining estate of John Gould, which was situated on the north side of Porter Street, then Barrett Lane. The old Gould house was enlarged and improved by Joseph Barrett, and it beeame his homestead in which he passed the rest of his days. This was the estate long occupied by the late Charles Porter, and now owned by Albert M. Smith. An uncle of this Joseph, James Barrett, owned a farm which joined the homestead farm of Joseph, on the east and north side of Porter Street. He sold to James Nichols, and the house was burned a few years ago. It occupied the spot where now stands the fine residence of Eugene H. INIoore, known as " The Moorelands." At the death of Joseph his landed property consisted of his home- stead, with thirty-one acres, the old Jonathan Barrett home- stead lot of twenty-one acres, the Pine Hill lot of fourteen acres, and a few other small lots. Among his papers was found the following, which shows that he furnished a man for the Revolution, but probabl}' did not himself enlist. Cambridge, Augt. 17. 1781. Reel of M''. Joseph Barrett the sum of Twelve Pounds Solid Coine in full for all Accompts, Debts Dues and Demands Against M"". Joseph Lyonds or M''. Joseph Barretts Class for Procuring a man for three years' service in the Army. Rec^ by me, Benj. Perkins. Joseph brought up a large family of children on this Barrett Lane homestead. The oldest son was Captain Jonathan Barrett, who was born in 1775, and who made his home in the western part of the town, on a farm that came into his possession in the following manner: It 1699, John Sprague sold the west part of his farm to Deacon John Pratt. It contained eighty acres. The house had been built many years and was the one his grandfather bought of his brother Richard in 1652. It was situated on the south side of what is known as Barrett Mount, about twenty rods west of the corner of Vinton and Booster Streets. Maple Street passes near the site of this old homestead, which was visible until within a few }'ears. After the death of John Pratt, in 1742, the property came into the possession of Isaac Green, who married Mary, the daughter of Pratt. Tradition sa}'s that Green demolished the old Sprague house, which had stood a hundred years or more, and used the materials in building what came to be kiK^wn as the " Moun- 106 HISTORY OF MELROSE. tain House," corner of Vinton and Maple Streets, recently removed. The farm and new homestead then became the property of Benoni Vinton, who married Mary, the daughter of Isaac Green. .She afterwards married Joseph Lynde, and when a widow sold this estate to Captain Jonathan Barrett, in 1806. The homestead was then enlarged, and became one of the finest residences in the north part of Maiden. It was around and near this house that was situated what used to be known, eighty or ninety years ago, as " the village;" and here, from different parts of the sparsely settled portion of the town, would congregate the people, for games, social chat and amusements. The nearest house to " the village," other than the two Sprague houses, on Foster Street, was that of John Larrabee, the great-grandfather of the present John Larrabee, who for twenty-one years was our efficient Town Clerk, after- wards one of the Sewer Commissioners, City Treasurer in 1900, and Ma}-or in 1901-2. The Larrabee farm consisted of twent\-six acres, and was bought of the heirs of Benoni Vinton, in 1805. It extended to Youle Street on the north, and was bounded b}^ Vinton Street on the east. He built his homestead on the corner of Vinton and Otis Streets, which is still standing, and belongs to the heirs of the late Smith W. Nichols. In an L adjoining his homestead, Captain Barrett, for many years, carried on the shoe manufacturing business; being the first and only one at that time in this part of the town, and which he continued until his death in 1821. The following- extract from a printed Scniion Dclh'crcd in Mahlcii, Xorc/ulwr 2j//i, 1821. llic Lord's Day After the Interment of Capt. Jonathan Barrett, Who Died Novcnibr l8th, ^-Et. 46. By Aaron Green, A. J/. Pastor of the Congregational Society in said Town. Alas ! my brethren, Capt. Barrett is no more. . . . Yes, my friends, he is gone, and for him, ever}- person of benevo- lence and affection, patience and resignation, candor and humanit)-, charity and love, will go mourning about the streets, for in him they have lost a brother. Gone is the useful citizen, the affectionate hus- band, the tender parent, the generous friend. Deaf is the ear, that listened with delight to the voice of truth : Cold is the heart that throbbed with s}-mpath}- : Closedt he e}e that sparkled with joy ; the pulse, that beat so often now beats no more. •' Kest then, ye pre- cious relic, within thy hospitable gloom. Rest in gentle slumbers, till the last trumpet shall give the welcome signal, and sound aloud OLD FAMILIES AND HOMESTEADS. 107 throug-h all the silent mansions, with this joyful call Arise, shine, for thy light is come, and the glory of the Lord is risen upon thee. " Mr. Barrett was commissioned Captain of a Company in the First Regiment, First Brigade, Third Division, Massachusetts Militia, bj^ Gov. Caleb Strong, March 28th, 1805. The shoe manufacturing business established by Capt. Bar- rett, was afterwards carried on by the late George Emerson, and later by others; and, until within a few years, has been one of the few manufacturing businesses that have existed in Mel- rose. In this old "Mountain House" of Capt. Barrett, was born a large family of children; among them, May 25, 1818, the late Artemas Barrett, to whom this history is indebted for man}- of its genealogical items connected with its old families. He died Jan. 12, 1897, being nearly seventy-nine years of age. He was a highly respected and honored citizen. He held many town ofifices, and was a Representative to the General Court in 1861. At the death of Capt. Jonathan Barrett, the estate passed into the hands of his widow, Mrs. Fann>' Barrett, who bought out the heirs, with the exception of her two minor sons, James and Artemas. In 1845, s^"*^ conve>^ed the land in front of her house to these two sons, who, in the same >'ear, conveyed the farm portion to Jeremiah Martin, for SiO,000, who established, and for many years carried on an extensi\e nursery business, on a portion of it, the balance being laid out in house lots, and dwellings built thereon. These nursery grounds were sold, after the death of Mr. Martin, and are now covered with many streets and residences. The old mansion house remained in possession of Mrs. Barrett until her death, in 1874. It has since been sold, removed to the corner of Tappan and Sanford Streets, and become a tenement house. We still have many representatives of the Barrett family among our citizens. Hon. William Emerson Barrett, son of Augustus, w'ho was son of Peter, brother of Capt. Jonathan Barrett, was a member of the Massachusetts Legislature for six }'ears, 1888-1892, five of which he was Speaker of the House of Representatives; and he was Representative for the Seventh District in the 54th and 55th Congresses of the United States. The Uphams. The name of Upham is an ancient one. It was one of the first to be used as a surname, being found in the English Charter Rolls — which were " registers of ro\'al u'rants of 108 HISTORY OF MELROSE. lands, honors, dignities, hereditary offices, liberties," etc. — as early as 1208. It came from an estate that bore that name, such a place being mentioned in the Domesday Book, as belonging to the time of Edward the Confessor (1042-1066); and there are places in England today bearing that name, and in one of them, situated sixty-five miles from London, was born Edward Young, the author of NigJit Thoughts. The name Upham was probably formed by uniting the Anglo Saxon words up, high, and ham, a home, dwelling or hamlet, meaning thus: "the Home on the Hill."^-' John Upham, the progenitor of all that bear his name in America, was born in Bicton Parish, on the River Otter, in 1597, and came to this country in 1635. He first settled in Wey- mouth, which town he represented several times in the General Court. In 1642, he was appointed one of the Commissioners to treat with the Indians in obtaining a title to the We>miouth territory. He removed to Maiden in 1648, where he became one of its leading citizens. As early as 165 1 he was one of the Selectmen, an office he held several years. He was several times appointed Commissioner " to settle the lesser legal matters of Weymouth and Maiden." He was also deacon of the Church for twenty-four years. The following is the in- scription on his tombstone, which is near the centre of the old Bell Rock Cemetery in Maiden: ^ Here lyes y^ Body of John Upham ^O C^TV ^PJ^^I*^ aged 84 3"f Died Febo' 25, 1681. ^-^^ 0 ^""^""^ His son, Lieut. Phineas Upham, born in 1635, soon after his parents' arri\al in America, ■^'^ was an acti\'e officer in King Philip's War. The headquarters of our troops in the Con- necticut Valley, during this war, at this time, was at Hadley. Major Pynchon, not feeling equal to the task of commanding longer, resigned. Captain Samuel Appleton was appointed by the General Court to take his place, and Lieut. Upham of Mai- den was selected to bear through the intervening wilderness the necessary dispatches. Following is the order: ■*■' Mrs. Mary Upham Kelley and peace and thankfulness which fol- A\'arren Upham, in Upham and lowed the safe arrival in America, Amherst, A\ H., 6. and so have been given to the first ^® " It has also been suggested that born in the New World." Frank K. the scriptural significance of the Upham, The Descendants of John name Phinehas 'the peace of God,' Upham of Massachusetts, 47. may have indicated the feelings of OLD FAMILIES AND HOMESTEADS. 109 ■5"/- Wee have ordered Lt Uphain to lead up to you 30 men and do further order that Lt Scill be dismissed home to his family, and his souldjers to make up some of y« companies as yt chief e Commander shall order and ye above named Lt Upham to be Lt under Capt Wayte, These for Major John Pynchon. This was dated Sept. 4, 1675. He arrived at his destination on the I2th,and from that time was in active service, conduct- ing many scouting parties and expeditions. At the battle of the Narraganset Fort, Dec. 19, 1675, ^vhen one thousand Indian warriors were slain or wounded, and eighty-six English killed and one hundred and fifty wounded, Lieut. Upham was severely wounded. Of this sanguinary fight the historian, Hubbard, says : It is hard to say who acquitted themselves best in that day's service either the soldiers for their manlike valour in fighting, or the Com- manders for their wisdom and courage ; leading on in the very Face of Death. After lingering some ten months from the effects of this wound, Lieut. Upham died, in October, 1676, at the age of 41 years. He was highly respected as a citizen, and was eminent in the military service. The Upliavi Genealogy says of him: In battle Lieutenant Upham exhibited the character of a brave man and patriot, purchasing with mortal wounds the palm of victory ; and the government was not unmindful of his great sacrifice but bore testimony upon the records "to the long and good ser- vices he did to the country, /If^J^^t:^"^^^ / K:)p^CUK' and the great loss sustained by his friends in his death." In the Archives at the State House are several documents signed by Lieut. Upham; and in the records of the fall term of the General Court for the same year, 1676, is found the fol- lowing entry: In answer to the petition of Ruth Upham, widow and relict of the late Lieut. Phineas Upham, the Court judgeth it meet to order that the bills of charge to chirurgeons, doctors and diet, &c., mentioned in the said petition, be payed by the treasurer of the county; and in consideration of the long and good services her husband did for the country, and the great loss the widow sustains b}- his death, being left with seven small children, and not able to carry on their affairs, for the support of herself and family, do further order the treasurer of the county to pay unto the said widow ten pounds in, or as money. /iQ£^-n<?^^? /%no^c 110 HISTORY OF MELROSE. One of these "seven small children," Phineas, the eldest son, became a prominent citizen of Maiden, For fourteen years he was one of the Selectmen; Town Treasurer for several years; deacon of the Church; several times Moderator of the Town Meeting; and for five years Representative to the Gen- eral Court. He died in October, 1720, at the age y^""^'^^:^ /^ , P of 62 years, and was {^y^oHd'-n:^ -XJOi^yWO buried in the cemetery '/ at Maiden. It was his oldest son, born June 10, 1682, and bearing the same name, Phineas, a favorite one with the Uphams, who came to Melrose, then North Maiden, and settled on Upham Hill, in the year 1703. At the same time it is recorded, that "Phineas Upham and Tamzen Hill were joined in marriage, y^ 23d of November, 1703, by M'' Wigglesworth; " and from them ha\e descended all of the many Melrose Uphams, and many others who have gone to other parts of the land, some of whom have become eminent as lawyers, ministers, authors, and statesmen. Very soon after his marriage he built his homestead, and established his home " in their primitive dwelling on the wooded crest of Upham Hill." This was situated on what is now the corner of Upham and Highland Streets, where it remained until within a very few years, when it was removed a few rods south and now stands on Waverly Avenue. Some years ago it was enlarged and improved. While it stood on Upham Street, our present Chief Engineer of the Fire Department, A. Wilbur Lynde, made his home therein for a number of years, tilling his farm thereto belonging. Here Phineas and Tamzen Upham li\ed, and brought up a large family of sex'en sons and six daughters. One of his sons, Jabez, became a doctor and settled in Brook- field, Massachusetts; and concerning him occurs the following- sentence in his father's will. And the reason \vh}- I give my son Jabez l^pham no more in this my last will, is because I have given him to the value of a hundred pounds in bringing him up to the art of a Doctor or Ph3'sician. Phineas was one of the Selectmen of Maiden for several years; two years Assessor, and many years iModerator of the OLD FAMILIES AND HOMESTEADS. Ill Town Meetings. In the }'eai' 1707-8 he is mentioned as Ensign Phineas Upham. He died in 1766, at the age of eighty-three years. His wife died two years later, at the same age. Of the personal appearance of this Phineas, we have the fol- lowing description in Notices of the Life of JoJui Upham, the first inJiabitant of Nciv England who bore that uavu\ b>' Dr. Albert G. Upham, published in 1845: Mr. John Edmonds, of Maiden, an old soldier, now 89 years of age, informs me that when a boy he often saw Phineas Upham. He states that he was of the medium height, his hair abundant, but of a pure white, and his costume that of his times, viz., — breeches, cocked hat, etc. He used to walk about the village with the assistance of an ivory- headed cane, and he had a favorite seat beneath a wide-spreading tree, where he was often seen reposing. THK OLD AMOS UPHAM HOUSE. The oldest son of Phineas, born Jan. 14, 1708, was also named Phineas. He died in Maiden, July 17, 1 738, of the malignant throat distemper which prevailed in that year. Amos, another son of Phineas, born in 1718, succeeded to a portion of his father's acres and the old homestead still stand- ing; and, in turn, his son, also named Amos, born in 1741, came into possession. This Amos and his brother William, were in Capt. Benjamin Blaney's Company, which marched to Water- town "upon tne alarm on the 19^'^ of April, 1775, and from thence to resist the minesteral troops." 112 HISTORY OF MELROSE. It cannot be stated just when this old house was built, but evidently soon after the Phineas Upham house of 1703. Con- cerning this house, Miss Mary Elizabeth Upham, a direct descendant in the ninth generation, wrote the following de- scription in 1890, for the Uphavi Genealogy ; The Descendants of JoJin Upham of Massachusetts : The original house must have been quite small. A family tradition has taught us that it little more than covered the present cellar, which extends under less than half the building. A huge chimney — with a fireplace ten feet long, and as high as the main room of the dwelling — rivaled the house itself in size. But it was not long before the family outgrew its narrow quarters. Then was the first building supplemented by such additions that it came to be a large, substantial dwelling, thirty feet in length, and two stories high toward the south. On the north the roof sloped nearly to the ground. Later still (and yet so long ago that no one now living remembers it) the slopnig roof was raised, so that the house is nearly two stories high on the north, today. In the old garret the original sloping rafters may yet be seen.^" The front door of the house is away from the street on the south side. Crossing its smooth door-stone we enter a small passage-way from which a few stairs, with two-square landings, lead to the upper fioor. At the right a low door-way admits us to a large room, eighteen feet square, presumably the '• best room "" of the house. Its low wain- scot, and high mantel, the broad beams across the ceiling — but a short distance above our heads — and the long hearth of the primative fire- place— all point to the age of the structure. On the left of the front entry is another room, much like the first. The center of the house is occupied by the huge chimney, and on the north are the smaller rooms. The oak beams are in many cases ^' From an examiuation of the sloping roof was raised so that the huge chimney, directly in the cen- house is nearly two stories high on tre of the house, and from the fact the north." Be that as it may, it that " in the old garret the original is a most interesting old mansion, sloping rafters may yet be seen," and presents the nearest approach and that these are in both parts of to the original appearance of any the house, and that the large beams of the houses of our original settlers, over head are in both rooms to the unles an exception is made in the right and left of the chimney, and Howard House at the corner of from the position of the front door Lebanon and Porter streets, which, directly in the centre, I am led to although not quite as old, does not believe that the original house was seem to have had any additions the same size as it now appears, whatever since the day it was built, and that the enlargement was made. The Howard house was destroyed as Miss Upham states, when " the in the latter part of the year 1900. OLD FAMILIES AND HOMESTEADS. 113 eighteen inches thick ; and the walls are filled in with bricks and clay. The chimney is made of bricks of many sizes, and clay instead of mortar is used. The fire-places have been made smaller within a century, but the original hearths — in some of which square tiles are placed — are still left. The occupants of this house through the various succeeding genera- tions have all been tillers of the soil, though several have combined with this mechanical trades, as a supplementary occupation. Its pres- ent owner and occupant still carries on the farm, though but few of the oriofinal acres remain. INTERIOR OF THE AMOS UPHAM HOUSE.** Amos' son Asa, born April 29, 1785, was the successor in the ownership of this old ancestral homestead; and here, under ■** This is a view of a portion of the south-east room, with its large oaken beams crossing the ceiling. Herein are grouped some of the many interesting heir-looms, still remaining in this old Upham home- stead. Some of these two hundred years of age or more. The fire- place— formerly much larger than now, occupying, with an oven by its side, nearly the whole of the side of the room — with its crane, hooks, andirons, shovel, tongs and bellows; the two old chairs, one a Winsor; on the mantel-piece, candle-sticks, an old " Black Jug " two hundred years of age, and a pitcher of the "willow-ware" pattern; on the table a needle-worked picture, old cup and saucer, old school books, a wooden quart water-bottle — it is surmised that this has had some- thing in it stronger than water ! — an old English cup, and an Indian stone-hatchet, plowed up ou this farm. 114 HISTORY OF MELROSE. this same roof-tree, he passed a long h'fe, dyiniT in 1S69, at the age of eighty-four years. He could well remember when Maiden had but one church, where all the town could worship God, and when that part now Melrose had but one small, rough schoolhouse, with its rough seats and large open tireplace and the school kept only two months in the year, the tow-n very sparsely settled, with its narrow, rough and crooked pathway-, travelled only on foot or horseback. . . . Mr. Upham was blest with a competence of this world's goods, but with what was far better, good health from the cradle almost to the grave. And what was still better, he has during his long life, travelled in the pathway of virtue and uprightness, and has gone down in his ripe old age to his final resting- place with an unblemished reputation, honored and respected by all who knew him. And in this homestead a large family of children, of the eighth generation, was born; among them the late Eri, Asa, Orne and Benjamin R. Upham. Orne, born Sept. 25, 1820, succeeded his father as owner of the farm, whereon he spent a long, quiet, unostentatious life as a farmer, dying April 2, 1894, aged seventy-four years; and here m the old mansion, still lives the family of Orne, his wadow, Mary E., being the present owner; with her live her two daughters, Esther Norris and Mary Elizabeth, they being of the ninth generation — the latter of whom wrote the description of the old Amos Upham house, quoted in the preceding pages. Eri Upham and Asa Upham, brothers, born respectivel\' Sept. 7, 1813, and March 31, 1816, lived on Upham Street, near the old homestead, where they passed long li\'es; Eri dying July 2, 1897, at the age of 84 years, and Asa, Dec. 15, 1899, aged 83 years. Another brother, Jienjamin R., born April 5, 1823, lived for many years in the old Emerson mansion, on the corner of Main and Emerson Streets, where his widow, Rachel E., still lives. He died Nov. 30, 1892, at the age of seventy years. His son Frank Richardson, born Dec. 18, 1852, is at present Chairman of the Board of Assessors of Melrose. Besides the Uphams already spoken of as ha\ing lived in the old homesteads on the original acres of the first Melrose Phineas, he had numerous other descendants who lived in other homesteads on U})ham Hill. The Rev. Frederick Upham, D. D., "The Nestor of the I\F V.. Church," was the son of Samuel .Sprague U])liam, ant! was born C)ctol)er 4, 1799, and OLD FAMILIES AND HOMESTEADS. 115 died March 20, 1891, at the age of ninet)'-t\vo years. He was a very active and influential minister, and presiding elder in the Methodist Episcopal Church. He began his career as preacher at the age of twenty, continuing until within a very few years of his death. His brother, Freeman Upham, born December 7, 181 1, for many years had his homestead on Main Street, and until the day of his death, May 25, 1900, was hale and hearty; he walked our streets during his last years with the appearance of a much younger man. One of his sons, Osgood Wright Upham, born May 2, 1835, ^^'^s a resident of Melrose for manv v^ears, but now resides in Keene, N. H. JESSE UPHAM HOUSE. Another branch of the Upham residents on this hill, and descendants from the original Phineas, was Jesse, son of Timothy, who was born August 29, 1710, and of the fifth generation. Jesse was born March 18, 1745, and died August 23, 1825, at the age of eighty years. Jesse's son, also named Jesse, born November 8, 1775, lived in the orignal Phineas Upham homestead. He died A})ril 5, i860, aged eight)'-five years. Jesse's son, Joshua Upham, born Dec. 2y, 1806, built his house on Upham Street, near Cjooch Street. This has now been moved to P'irst Street. Joshua died Januar\' 16, 1871, at the age of sixty-four years. His brother George, born October 116 HISTORY OF MELROSE. 4, 1810, lived in his grandfather Jesse's house. Here he dwelt, cultivating these acres, until February 13, 1872, when he died at the age of sixty-two years. His homestead was on the corner of Upham Street and Waverly Avenue, and must have been built at least one hundred and fifty years ago. It has received some additions and changes but is in good condition. It is the only old homestead in Melrose which still retains its old well, with its old-fashioned well-sweep, still in use, and which is the last relic of this primitive mode of drawing water. One cannot see it without at once calling to mind the familiar refrain: The old oaken bucket, the iron-bound bucket, The moss-covered bucket, which hung in the well. May it be a long time before this old well-sweep is displaced! It is one of the last North Maiden relics of former days. Suffer it to remain as a reminder of former generations of the Uphams of Upham Hill! Still another Upham farm and homestead was situated on Upham Street, that of Nathan Upham, son of Amos, born February 28, 1781, and died in 1845, aged 64 years. This was on the north side, between Upham and Porter Streets. This farm was inherited b\- his two sons, Eli and Albert, two bachelors, who tilled, its soil for many years; and finally lost possession because they would not set back a small carriage or tool house in order to widen Upham Street; being ordered so to do, first by the town authorities, and then by the County Commissioners. As they were determined not to move it, it was done by the State, the necessary tax levied, refusal to pay, citation in Court, non-appearance, defalcation decreed, and the estate sold to Nathaniel P. Jones, and thus passing out of the possession of the Uphams forever. Quite a portion of the farm has been sold in house lots, and many of our finest residences built thereon; but Mr. Jones still owns many of its acres, and he still owns the old homestead, which was built by Nathan Upham in 1816. The brick house, on what is now known as the "Parker Place," was also built by an Upham, Joshua, son of the senior Jesse, in 1810. He was a master-mason of Salem. The road leading from the present Upham Street, just to the east of this residence, built in 1796, was the old way to Saugus and Lynn. This Upham house was sold sometime during the war of 181 2, OLD FAMILIES AND HOMESTEADS. 117 to a Mr. Peale, for $2,000. and the payment was made in whole pepper, which, from fear of being raided if taken to Salem, was stored in the chamber of Jesse Upham's house, then on Upham Street, now on Waverly Avenue. After the war was over, it is said by representatives of the Uphams, the pepper was bought back by the former owner. Some years later a Mr. Derby bought this place, and after owning it several years, sold it to the present owners, the Parkers. Cottages for different mem- bers of the Parker family have been built near by, and the whole cluster of buildings makes one of the pleasantest resi- dential spots in Melrose. Time was when the old original Amos Upham, and the two Jesse Upham houses, views of two of which are given, were the only ones existing on what is now Upham Street, once Upham Lane, or the old country road to Saugus. Just over the brow of the hill, at the extreme end of East Foster Street, there exists what may be called an Upham Ceme- tery, but what remains visible has more the semblance of a tomb; the door has disappeared, and the entrance has been walled up. Here were buried the two Jesse Uphams, father and son, their wives and many of their children. There was also entombed, Thomas Smith, who married a daughter of Jesse Upham, and his wife, also a Mr. Towle, who once lived on the Parker Place. There were graves outside the tomb, in which burials were allowed; among them, a negro named Johnson and his wife, and quite a number of others. These graves were entirely obliterated, years ago, by plowing and cultivating the soil. The tract embraced some ten thousand feet, and was originally fenced; but that also has disappeared, and nothing but the face of the undoored tomb now remains, in an open, unprotected field. On the north side of Lynde Street, a few rods east of where Summer Street intersects, there once stood a very old house, built by John Pratt, who, at his death in 1743, gave it, with twelve acres of land to his grandson David Green, who sold it to Amos Upham. Mr. Upham was a blacksmith; the only one in this part of the town; and his shop was nearby his dwelling. These were situated on the original 1653 road. In those days, besides shoeing horses and cattle, and repairing carts, a great variety of work was done at the blacksmith's shop; here all kinds of agricultural implements then used were made; plough- 118 HISTORY OF MELROSE. shares, axes, spades, hoes, scythes, etc.; also all kinds of house- hold utensils; and a blacksmith's shop was a much frequented place. Here public notices were posted. In 1693, when rams were not allowed to run at large, the town passed the following vote which was duly tacked upon the blacksmith's shop: That ye finder of any Rams shall forthwith set up a paper one both ye Smith Shops in this town fairly writen ye marke of said Ram. This property passed into the hands of William Upham, of the fifth generation, in 1777. He was born August 7, 1747, and was a soldier in the Revolution; being in the battle at Bunker Hill, and at White Plains, where he was wounded and crippled for life. On the opposite side of the street, on the rising ground, stands the little one-stor\^ Dolly Upham house, built by William Upham, in 181 2, for his son William. In 1845, this property passed out of the possession of the Uphams. The Howards. The Howards were among the original families occupying the territory of Melrose. Peter Tufts, who seems to have been a land speculator, owning large tracts of land in this region, sold, in 1663, to Samuel Howard, then of Charlestown, his farm land, which was situated in what is now the centre of Melrose. It is described in the Middlesex Deeds, book 3, page 276, as lying at Ell Pond, and is embraced within the following bounds: Northerly by s^ Ell Pond, easterly by the brook from s^ Ell Pond, and southerly by the brook running from Spot Pond, westerly by John Sprague's farme. This latter line has been described as running northerly from Spot Pond brook, through Cottage Street, crossing Foster Street and the railroad east of the late Mrs. Liberty Bigelow's house, and so on a straight line to the head of Ell Pond. Mr. Howard, who came from England in 1635, '" the ship " Elizabeth," built a house on the border of Ell Pond, on the THE DULLY UPHAM HOUSE. OLD FAMILIES AND HOMESTEADS. 119 east side and near its outlet. He also built a dam across the outlet, and erected a sawmill thereon. Samuel Howard died about 1681, his estate passing into the possession of his heirs. His son Samuel had the homestead of twenty acres, with the sawmill, bounded north by Ell Pond and south by a line a few rods north of Winthrop and Vine Streets. His son Jonathan had the remainder, lying south of this line, and afterwards came into possession of this mill, as is evidenced by the fol- lowing sale, dated Jan. 8, 1721: Jonathan Howard conveys to Samuel Howard, wheelwright, one acre of land lying near the dwelling house of said Samuel Howard, with the grist or cornmill that stands on the land with the mill dam and all the privilege belonging to the mill. THE OLD HOWARD HOUSE. It would seem that this mill, after a service of fifty years, exhausted the timber in its vicinity and was converted into a gristmill. Mary Howard, wife of Jonathan, came into possession of eight acres of land with the buildings thereon, on the east side of Ell Pond. The house here referred to is the one which, until the latter part of 1900, stood on the corner of Porter and Lebanon Streets. This was a very old house. The curb of the 120 HISTORY OF MELROSE. old well still stands, but the sweep has disappeared. Benja- min Howard sold one -half of it to Joseph Lynde, in 1762, mentioning in the deed that he purchased it of his father in 1740. This estate passed into the hands of Jonathan Howard, who sold to Amos Howard in 1786; and he sold to the late Nathaniel Howard, so long the principal undertaker of Mel- rose. He was born in this house, with a large family of brothers and sisters. One of them, Atalanta Howard, married Isaac Emerson, who built his homestead, wherein he passed a long life, where now stands the handsome parsonage of the Methodist Episcopal Church, on Main Street. Another, James, built the house on the corner of Pleasant and Summer Streets, Maiden, now occupied by his grandson, George Howard Fall, and who, many years after leaving his home on the borders of Ell Pond, wrote a poem in its memory: "But Now, No More, No More," two stanza? of which, furnished by Mr. Fall, are as follows: The twilight kissed that little lake, The waves dipped on the shore; We said such days shall come agaiu, But now, no more, no more. The sun it dazzles on the lake. As in the days of yore; There the old cottage, still it stands, Where we shall meet no more. The east half of this old Howard House, and the adjoining land was sold to the Melrose Hospital Association before its demolition; the other half of the estate, still belongs to Cynthia Howard Hawkes, a daughter of Nathaniel Howard, who now lives in Saugus. Nathaniel Howard, son of Jonathan, built a house at an early period in the rear of the present Eastman's Block, on Main Street, about fifteen rods east of said street, near the Ell Pond brook. By his will, dated in 1763, he gives his real estate and buildings to his sons Amos and Ezra. This estate consisted of about forty acres of land, lying on both sides of Main Street, which was hot then in existence, embracing the old village cemetery lot on the north, on which now stands our High School Building, bounded east on t^ll Pond Brook, south to a line within about ten rods of Foster Street, including the Baptist Church and Sewall School House lots, west on line just in the rear of the Main Street stores, crossing Essex OLD FAMILIES AND HOMESTEADS. 121 Street on the line of the Cit\' Hall lot, crossing Dix's Pond and Winthrop Street to a line parallel with the north line of the cemetery lot. Ezra Howard became sole owner of this estate by purchase from his brother Amos. Ezra Howard died and the estate, in i8o8, passed into the possession of Ezra Tainter and William Dix, who married two of Ezra Howard's daugh- ters. Dix's residence was on the corner of Main and Essex Streets, where now stands our City Hall. Tainter owned the old house, which was in a dilapidated condition, and was demolished about the time Main Street was laid out in 1806; 1 t i I ■^ :-iL-^a8> i A m^wl^ w ^fm- 1 OTp fi^^^i^^ b^aM.HH ■r^ PRATT FARM HOMESTEAD. and the material was used in the building of the old Tainter house, for many years occupied by the late Henry G. Fields, and by him sold to Messrs. Burrell & Swett. They sold it to Seth E. Benson, who removed it to Faulkner Place, where it now stands. Where it formerly stood, the present handsome block was erected by Messrs. Burrell & Swett in 1891. It contains stores, and, for several years the Post Office was here located; its upper stories are occupied by the Melrose Club. The Charles Pratt farm, of fortj'-six acres, on Lebanon Street, now belonging to the City of Melrose, having been pur- chased in 1887, for the purpose of enlarging the Wyoming 122 HISTORY OF MELROSE. Cemetery, was originally owned by Jonathan Howard, who built a house thereon. Reference is made to this by the Selectmen of Maiden, when running bounds in 1690, as fol- lows : Beginning at the ferder post of Joseph Lynde orchard so along to Jonathan Howards land next to the common land. When bought by John Pratt, father of Charles, in 1778, ac- cording to a memorandum found among Mr. Barrett's papers, the house was two story with a leaky kitchen on the back of the west end and occupied by 2 old Maids Ruth & Sarah Wait. The old Maids were to have the East End of the house during their life time. . . After the death of the old maids John Pratt tore down the old house and built the house where Charles Pratt now lives, in 1S06. Charles Pratt lived in the old homestead a year and a half after selling his farm to the town of Melrose, for $10,000, that consideration being a part of the price. He died Sept. 2, 1888, at the age of eighty-six years. At a town meeting held March 14, 1898, it was voted to utilize the mansion house and twelve acres of this property as a poor farm, until such time as the territory shall be needed for cemetery purposes. Where now stands the Masonic Building, on the corner of Main Street and Wyoming Avenue, once stood another home- stead of the Howards, that of Joseph, the second son of Jonathan Howard, who died in 1769. This descended to his heirs, and afterward passed into the possession of Joseph Boardman; and when the Masonic Building was erected, the old house was removed to Dell Avenue, and occupied as a dwelling until within a few years, when it was demolished. The Vintons. John Vinton of Lynn, was the ancestor of all the Vintons of America. The first of the Vintons that settled on Melrose territory, were the brothers Thomas and Benoni, of the fourth generation, about the year 1742. They married sisters, Hannah and Mary Green. Thomas bought his farm in 17.S8, situated on what is now Vinton and Franklin Streets. The old county road from Stoneham to Lynn, ran through our territory on or near our present P^ranklin Street; a short portion of it being Ci^j^ yv-w f/ ^^"^^^J' — / now covered by Day Street. ^J-f^^^^"^^ /y,i>r^'r^ty As we have seen in the sketch of the Barrett familv, OLD FAMILIES AND HOMESTEADS. 123 Thomas' brother Benoni, came into possession of the Moun- tain House farm, to the south of Maple Street. This was also in 1758. Curious articles of agreement between these brothers exist in a quaint old manuscript: It is agreed and Entered into by & between Thomas Vinton of Stoneham in the Count}' of middlesex & province of the Massachusetts bay in New England, Husband=man on the one part and his brother Benoni Vinton of maiden in s^ County Husband=man on the other part witnesseth that they the said Thomas and Benoni for their own Convenace and preventing future Dificulty do Covenant promise iSc: agree to &: with each other in the following manner Viz that the said Thomas shall & will pay or Deliver to the Said Benoni in his the Said Thomases orchards near his house annually apples anought to make two barrels of Cyder or else two Barrels of Cyder Ready made and delivered by the said Thomas at his house annually to the said Benoni that is Equaly as Good as the other Cyder that the said Thomas makes provided that the Said Thomas may make four barrels in a year and untill the said Benonis young orchard near his house doth bear apples anough to make two barrels of Cyder in one 3'ear as Shall be Judged by Indiferent men and that the Said benoni Shall & will Give Liberty to the Said Thomas within three years from the Date hereof at any time to pull up and take away the one half of all the young apple trees that are now in the nusseries near the house and barn of the Said benoni. Also Benoni Shall and will be at one half of the Cost of additional finishing the house the said Thomas now Dwells in and the whole to be done within three years from & next after y^ 28 day of July Ad: 1758. This house was on what is now Ashland Street, but has been turned round and altered somewhat. It is now owned by the estate of the late Charles A. Messenger. Benoni Vinton's son, Lieut. John, was a man of note, and filled a number of prominent positions in Maiden. He was a constable in 1777, and as such served a warrant under the following circumstances, as told by Mr. Corey, in his History of Maiden, pp. 769-70: In the winter of 1776 the General Court passed "an Act to prevent Monopoly & Oppression," which was designed to check speculation and a spirit of extortion, which, as is usual in times of public distress, began to appear. Under this act Ezra Sargeant and Jonathan Sprague gave information, on oath, to the Board of War, "that they have good Reason to suspect that in the Houses of Mary Emmerson Widow & 124 HISTORY OF MELROSE. Jacob parker Housewright or Gentleman, both of Maiden aforesaid there is considerable number of yards of \\'oolen & Linnen Cloth, which Cloth is absolutely necessary for the use of the Army & that the said cloth in said Houses the owner refuses to sell or dispose of at reasonable price." On this information a warrant was issued, upon which the following return was made March 19, 1777. " Jn obediance to the within Precept I have made Search In the house of the widow Mary Emerson & have found in said house forty three yards one Qr^ & one 8. of a yard of Checked woolen Cloath & twenty live yards one half & 1.8 of a yard of Tow Cloath & after taking the same into my care the Agents appointed by the Selectmen of maiden agreed with the said mary for the Cloath & purchased it at the State price. I Dident proceed to go to mr Parkers house by reason it was not Suspected that any of the Goods had been Removed there "pr me John Vinton Constable." Papers on file in the offiee of the Secretary of State. Mrs. Emerson was the widow of the Rev. Joseph Emerson, and Jacob Parker was their son-in-law. After the death of Mr. Emerson his widow and daughters appear to have kept a small shop for the sale of goods in their house near the meeting house. Lieut. Vinton was a member of the Committee of Corre- spondence for Maiden, for the years 1779 and 1780, serving with Lieut. Bernard Green, John Green, William Dexter, Sam- uel Sprague, Jonathan Sprague and others. He was also Tax Collector for Maiden's assessment by the State. Treasurer's Office, Jan' 13 1778 Received of Mr. John \lnton of Maiden one hundred twenty four pounds 6 in part for Taxes committed to him to collect for the Year 1778. ^124=6=0 H. Gardner Treasurer.'*-' Lieut. Vinton's military ser\-ices are gi\"en in the chapter "Military History." Benoni Vinton died in 1760, and his brother Thomas in 1763. Thomas left three sons, Thomas, Timothy, and Ezra. To Timothy he gaxe the above homesteaci. He ne\er married, but lived with his mother, until she died in 1804. He lived to be ninety-two years of age, and died in 1836, an abject miser. Turning his farm productions into money, he would hide it in all sorts of out-of-the-way places; burying some of it in the ground, a part of which was undoubtedly lost; fi\e *® From old papers in possession of George A. Fuller. OLD FAMILIES AND HOMESTEADS. 125 hundred Spanish dollars, old and tarnished, found in his house, were divided among his relatives immediately after his funeral. For Thomas was built, in 1770, the house formerly standing near the corner of Tremont and Franklin Streets, since re- moved to the corner of Tremont Street and Ellsworth Avenue, and now owned by John Singer, Senior. This farm descended to his son Thomas, who died in 1841, aged 70, of whom it is said he never left his farm for forty years, and never visited Boston, although living so near it. He left a very singular will, bequeathing his property in a curious manner to the Baptist Church of Maiden. In 1846, the Baptist Church sold it to VVinthrop Richardson. This was soon after the Boston and Maine Railroad was opened. At this time there '' ■ ■ r . ^ were but four houses in what is now the Highlands, west of Main Street — three occupied by Vintons and one by the Greens. This old homestead farm was held by Mr. Richard- son for farming purposes until 1853, when it was surveyed, and laid out in streets and house lots, and people from Boston began to make investments and build homes thereon. For himself he built a fine mansion, of which the above is a view. It stood about where now is situated the residence of Charles E. French, on Highland Avenue, the tower standing where the Stone Fort, sometimes called "Chipman's Folly," is situated, on Chipman Avenue. This tower, from the top of which was afforded a most extensive \-iew of the surrounding countr\', was destroyed by an incendiary fire one Fourth of July, 126 HISTORY OF MELROSE. several years since, and the house has been removed to Ash- land Street, and is now the residence belonging to the estate of the late Charles A. Messenger. The following is a view at the corner of Franklin and Green- wood Streets as it existed in 1853, and where now stands the residence of the late Frank A. Messenger. The two houses are those of the late octogenarian, Deacon Joel Snow, and Mrs. Martha A. Adams, widow of the late Rev. John G. Adams, D. D. What propert)' had not been disposed of by Mr. Richardson, before his accidental death on the railroad in 1853, was in- herited by his daughter, Mrs. Caroline M. Wood, who now lives on Tremont Street; and in 1895, the large tract of land north of Highland Avenue, then owned by her, was surveyed and laid out in house lots, in an artistic manner b}^ Ernest W. Bowditch; and many fine residences have since been built thereon. It is destined to become one of the finest residen- tial precincts of Melrose. In 1777, Ezra Vinton bought the Deacon Joseph Green farm and homestead, situated westerlj' from the original Thomas Vinton farm, the house being on Vinton Street, near the corner of Franklin Street. Our present Vinton Street was then merely a cartway which led from Stoneham to Maiden. About 1790 this house was burned, and Ezra then built on the same spot the house now standing. This is one of those large-timbered, strongly-built, huge-chimne}'ed, with o\en OLD FAMILIES AND HOMESTEADS. 127 attachment, old-fashioned houses of the earl>' settlers of the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries; devoid of ornamenta- tion, but commodious and comfortable. It is not quite so strongly built, in the way of timbers, as those of the earlier settlers. It has had some alterations and additions in the rear, and the top of the chimney has been made smaller. At the death of Ezra in 1S17. the estate was inherited by his son Joseph Vinton, who owned it until 1845, ^^'li*-'" it was sold to Horatio Nelson Perkins, who lived many years on the corner of Vinton and Franklin Streets. He sold the Vinton homestead to Israel Richardson of Portland, and the property- KZRA VINTON HOMESTEAD. is now owned by his heirs; but Miss Sarah A. Che\er, through Mr. Richardson's generosity, has a life lease of the house. She has gathered many interesting heir-looms therein; among them three chairs and writing table that belonged to Rew Cotton Mather, D. D. On this table many of his sermons and books were written; the chairs will be st'en in the centre of this in- terior view of one of the rooms in this comfortable old mansion, but the table has been disposed of. A grandson of Kzra, Aaron \'inton, born in 1826, lived on 128 HISTORY OF MELROSE. Howard Street, where he carried on the farming industry for many years. He died July i, 1901. The southern part of the Ezra Vinton farm, the woodlands, was sold by Mr. Perkins, to Dexter Bryant, and is still owned by him, with the exception of those portions sold in houselots and built upon. On this land, some way south of Orris Street, formerly Green Lane, on the high ground, is an old cellar-hole where once stood the Wilson house. Six or seven large elm trees are now growing within its walls, Mr. Wilson was a shoemaker and school-teacher; and carried on both branches of his business in that house, and at the same time.°^ KZRA VINTON HOUSE— INTERIOR. A natural curiosity existed on the southern part of this Vinton farm, and now belongs to the estate of Mrs. Benjamin F. Dyer, No. 44 Orris Street. It is an immense "Cleft Boul- der," or natural gateway to the woods beyond, a view of which is here given. The space between its walls is wide enough for a carriage drive, and it has a large oak tree growing therein. ■''^ This Wilson place formed the of 1S53, when a part of Stouehani corner from which the boundary was set off to Melrose, line was run northerly, in the act OLD FAMILIES AND HOMESTEADS. 1:>9 It is an interesting specimen and relic of the glacial age. It has been called by some "Chapel Rock" — why I know not. As we have seen in the history of the Green famil)', for more than a century they owned nearly all the territory now comprised in the Melrose Highlands, and a large part of Greenwood. After the advent of the Vintons, and their mar- riage into the Green fami- lies, this Highlands territory, to a very large extent, be- came the property of the Vintons. These three broth- ers, Thomas, Timothy and Ezra Vinton, lived side by side, on the then existing county road, (discontinued when Franklin Street was built,) and joined Captain Sprague's company of " Min- THE CLEFT BOULDER. ute Men," marching from Stoneham to Lexington, April 19th, 1775.^^ These families, the history of which has been given more or less in detail, are the ones that owned nearly every acre of the occupied territory now Melrose, during the early years, and many of the members of which were prominent in town affairs; and each and every one of which has descendants among its citizens today. Their characteristics, as well as those of all New Englanders in general of that period, are concisely described by Corey, in his History of Maiden, pp. 296-300. Whatever the superticial observer may pretend to see in the past which is now two centuries agone, there was very little of romance in the lives of the foredwellers of New England. The land which, when weary leagues away beyond the sea, seemed to How with milk and honey and to stand forth a later Canaan amid the virgin forests of the new world, became to their nearer vision a reality of bleak and rocky shores, a stubborn land of dark woods and rocky soil wherein Israel might rest ; but where existence was to be had at the price of priva- tions not unmixed with suffering, and where a livelihood was only to be gained bv the literal sweat of the brow. *^ Capt. Sprague lived in Stoneham, on the borders of Spot Pond. Bucknam, letter July 10, 1899. 18(1 HISTORY OF MELROSE. Out of such surroundings and from such conditions arose a genera- tion not unlike the countrj- which had given them birth and in which their early youth had been passed. . . . Much though there may have been of spiritual grace in these men and women of the seventeenth centur}', there was little of that outward grace which tempers the manners of men and beautifies, if it does not elevate, the lives which fall within the circle of its influence. Out of the hard and simple lives which they led perforce came a race of hard and simple men and women, who were almost without a sense of the beautiful, thinking- little of those arts which had borne a rich fruitage in the land of their fathers, and who were as careless of the beautiful in nature as in art. Hardly within the pale of civilization could a people be found, even in the se\-enteenth centur}-, so destitute of the aesthetic sense. In music, their knowledge was bounded by the few tunes which they painfully sung in a high and unnatural key in the drearj- meeting houses, which matched the tunes they sung. Of painting and sculpture the}' knew comparatively nothing; and poetr}- of a range above the Bay Psalms or the Day of Doom, and philosophy, except it came within the narrow limits of a prescribed theology, were forbidden fruits. . . . Yet there was much of promise in the strait and formal habits of life and thought of the fathers of New England. Underlying all was a sound and uncompromising enmity to injustice and wrong, and an unflinching devotion to the right, as they understood it ; and more than all. there was a sturd)' assertion of the independence of the indi\'idual and, through, him, of the masses. There was an ever-present de- mocracy, latent sometimes and sometimes militant, but always ready to spring into life and action. They were not alwaj's law-abiding; but it was a wicked or an unjust law which they resisted ; and their resist- ance was usually fortified b}' good and sufiicient legal principals. . . . Out of these qualities came all that has endured of the old Puritanic fabric which the fathers reared ; and. while mistakes and weaknesses of the past have disappeared one by one, these enduring qualities have remained with us as a i^eople and are the corner-stones of a great nation. Of similar characteristics were the settlers and early inhabitants of Maiden ; and while the}' may not have reached the higher limits of those qualities, they, happily, did not descend to the lower depths of ignorance and crime. They were the common people of a common New England settlement of the lesser kind — farmers, woodsmen, and craftsmen, who cleared their lands and built Iheir humble homes, jealously guarding their privileges as well against ecclesiastical as against civil encroachments There were fields to clear, houses, roads, and mills to build, and abo\e all. in God's Providence, the foundation of a nation to lay deep, though they in their weakness knew it not, happil}- building better than the}' knew. OLD FAMILIES AND HOMESTEADS. 131 These were the conditions of the people of Maiden during the period which intervened between their settlement and the war of the Indian Philip. Their work was that of subduing the forests and wild lands, and bringing them into forms fit for the uses of civilization. Then were laid out farms, whose boundary lines may still be traced, and roads, which from mere winding paths have become our principal streets. Besides these families already spoken of, there were others, some of whose names have been mentioned, who became resi- dents of this territory at quite an early date; among them. Herring, Breeden, Wilkinson, Grover, and Bunnell; but most of them have disappeared, and no longer have representatives among our citizens. Nearly all of these lived in the south- easterly part of the Town, in the Long Pond district. At a later date, some before, some after, and some about the time of the Revolutionary War, came the Pratts, the Emersons, Edmunds, Larrabees, Boardmans, Hemenways, Tainters, Fullers, Coxes, Waites, Goulds, Eatons and a few others; and the descendants of most of these families are still citizens of Melrose. Of some of them much might be said concerning their identification with the interests of the Town, while it was a part of Maiden, and since its incorporation. Some served in the early wars; some in the Revolution; some held civic ofifice; some were manufacturers; and some were peaceful farmers. Thomas Bunnell served in King Philip's War, being in garri- son at Groton. He lived on the old road to Reading. The cellar of his house remained in the land now occupied by the Wyoming Cemetery in Melrose, until filled by Charles Pratt many years ago.^- He was sexton of the Maiden church for twenty-eight years, his first year being 1690. March 169^3, after the church bell had been transferred from its frame on the rock, where it had previously hung, thus giving the name to the near-by Bell Rock Cemetery, the following vote was passed: Thomas dunnell Is chose to Ring ye bell and sweep and look after y^ meting hous for this year: and the Town cloth agree to give him Thirty five shillings by a Reate : ye said dunnell Is also to dig the graues. He was re-elected. March 7, ij-y/^o. and appears no more. I sus- pect that he performed his duties until the next winter, and that Sandy °'- Corey, History oj Ulaldcn, 355. 132 HISTORY OF MELROSE. Bank took to itself all that it could claim of the bellman and grave- digger.53 One of the earliest settlers in Maiden was Capt. John Wayte (Waite) who married Mary, daughter of Joseph Hills. From him have descended the many citizens bearing that honored name. One of them, Ezra, lived on territory now Melrose, in what is known as the Ezra Waite House. EZRA WAITE HOUSE. This interesting old domicile, now owned by George H. Ireson, who has lived therein some sixty years, is situated on Swain's Pond Avenue, in the southeastern part of Melrose. No one knows just when it was built, but it is undoubtedly two centuries old. It has brick-lined walls, and the usual wooden cross-beams in the ceiling, found in all the oldest houses. On the opposite side of the road may be seen the remnants of an old milldam; this makes it evident that there were once two sawmills on the outlet of Swain's Pond, one of which, Grover's, has been before referred to. Emerson. William Emerson, although born in Reading, and li\-ing some years in Woburn, early came to North Mai- den. He married Mary Vinton, a sister of the three brothers, Thomas, Timothy and Ezra X'inton, heretofore spoken of. ^^ Corey, History of Maiden, 355. OLD FAMILIES AND HOMESTEADS. 133 Mr. Emerson was in the Revolution, enlisting at the early age of eighteen; and the relation of his war experiences, to his children and grandchildren, afforded much entertain- ment.^ His first homestead " stood near the old well with a narrow cartway between the house and well," says one of his sons, the Rev. Warren Emerson, waiting June 23, 1876: The house was afterwards sold to Amos P. Lynde, and converted into a barn. In the above house my father kept a Public House for a number of years. The family moved into the new house on the .1 - .''-:^^' EMERSOX TAVERN. •^^ William Emerson, fthen of Reading), was private in Capt. John Dix's Co., Col. Mcintosh's regi- ment, Gen. Lovel's brigade ; en- listed Aug. I, 1778; discharged Sept. 12, 1778 ; service i mo. 15 dys., travel included, at Rhode Island; also, descriptive list of men raised to reinforce Continental Army for the term of 6 mos., agreeable to resolve of June 5, 1780, returned as received of Justin Ely, Commis- sioner, by Brig. Gen. John Glover, at Springfield, July 11, 1780; age, 20 yrs. ; stature, 5 ft. 7 in. ; com- plexion, ruddy; engaged for town of Reading; arrived at Sprinfield July 10, 1780; marched to camp July ri, 1780, under command of Ensign Bancroft ; also, list of men raised for the 6 mos. service and returned by Brig. Gen. Paterson as having passed muster in a return dated CampTotoway, Oct. 25, 1780; also, pay roll of 6 mos. men raised b}' the town of Reading for service in the Continental •A.rmy during 1780; marched July 5, 1780; dis- charged Dec. 12, 1780; service, 5 mos., 19 dys. iMassachiisctts Sol- diers and Sailors of the Revolittiort- ary War, Vol. v, p. 352. 134 HISTORY OF MELROSE. corner of Main and Emerson Streets, either the 6th or 7th of November, 1805, as you may tind marked with chalk on a rafter in the garret in the east end of the house unless it has been rubbed out by some one. I think marked by myself. In this old inn all of Mr. Emerson's children were born, excepting William, son of his first wife, who early went to Bangor, Maine, and Isaac, the oldest son by his second wife, who was born in Woburn. Another sister of these Vintons, Martha, married John Pratt, father of the late Charles Pratt, whose farm was on our present Lebanon Street, and which now forms part of the Wyoming Cemetery. Hemenway. Francis Hemenway, whose farm was on the easterly side of East Street, corner of Porter, was born in Stoneham in 1797, but came to Melrose when he was a year old. In 1815, there occurred an Indian mock fight, in which Mr. Hemenway took part. Some six hundred Maiden and Reading men, arrayed in war-paint and feathers, tomahawks and scalping-knives, were pitted against several military com- panies from Charlestown and other towns. The battle began on Reading Hill, north of Green Street, and ended at Joseph Boardman's, whose house stood where Masonic Hall now stands. After a hard and desperate struggle the red men were defeated. Mr. Hemenway represented an Indian squaw, and carried on his back for a papoose, the late Charles Porter, then a baby two years old. During Lafayette's visit in 1825, Mr. Hemenway joined the military company at Maiden cen- tre, marched to Bunker Hill, to take part in the laying of the corner-stone of the monument, heard Daniel Webster's great oration, and shook hands with our friend and ally, the great Frenchman. The old homestead, with its well and well-sweep, has disappeared but the house still exists, having been mo\-ed to the upper end of Porter Street. The Old Boardman House. Although this house does not actually stand on Melrose territory, it is so near it, being just over the line in Saugus, its age, its history, and the lives of some of its former occupants, are so closely connected with our city, that it is appropriate to introduce a view of the venerable relic, with a short sketch of its history. It is known, far and wide, as the Abijah Boardman House, and is situated on Howard Street. It is one of the oldest, if not the oldest house now standing on New England soil. It OLD FAMILIES AND HOMESTEADS. 135 was built in 1635-6, by Samuel Bennett, who came to Saugus in the first of these years. He came over from England, at his own cost, in consequence of which he received a grant of fift\' acres of land, locating it on this spot. \\\\h the shrewdness which was characteristic among the first settlers, he selected for the site a moderate elevation just west of a running rivulet which came down from Castle Hill to water his " horned cattle." and to meet at the declivity south of the house another little stream that kept green and fertile his meadows. The house is the best preserved specimen of the projecting upper story architecture to be found. It has the old fashioned huge chimney, fireplaces, and o\-ens, of the early colonial period; large beams cross its ceilings; hand-made, wrought ABIJAH liUARDM.^N HOUSE. iron nails were used; its cellar stairs are made of hewn logs instead of boards; and the walls were bricked between the upright timbers from top to bottom, thus making it warm and imperx'ious to the storms of winter; and the old house is still strong and able to defy the tempests of yet other centuries. The projecting upper story, in this case eighteen inches wide, so often thought to be so built for a means of defence, simply followed familiar architectural designs for dwellings extant in the early part of the seventeenth century. The openings, through which to shoot, or pour hot water upon the heads of attacking Indians, exist only in imagination. CHAPTER V. ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY. THE First Methodist Episcopal Church. The first or- ganized religious society in Melrose (North Maiden) was the Methodist Episcopal Church. In the winter of 1813, a committee consisting of Phineas Sprague, James Green, Jesse Upham and Cotton Sprague, requested the Rev. Timothy Merritt — then a member of the Massachusetts Legislature from Maine — to preach in the little district school-house, which was situated on the west side of the old road, now Lebanon Street, a short distance south of the present Upham Street. He accepted and continued for four Sabbaths, begin- ning February 4. A political sermon had been deli\'ered in the Orthodox Church, at Maiden Centre, which was opposed to the pre\-ailing sentiment existing in North Maiden, and consequently caused great dissatisfaction among its residents; and the call to Mr. Merritt was the result of an indignation meeting held in one of their barns. In support of this mox'ement the following petition was prepared and circulated previous to the commencement of these services: i\L\Lr)EN, Jan}- 15''! 1S13. The undersigned, impressed with the necessity of attendance upon Public \\'orship, experiencing the disadvantages of residing at a distance from Meeting and belie\'ing that the interest of Pietj' & Morality would be promoted by Meeting in this vicint}' for religious Worship do hereby severally agree to pay the Sums set against their respective Names for the Supi^ort of a Methodist Preacher to Preach Statedly at the Northern District School House. Phineas Sprague, Jr., Joseph Howard. Asa L'pham, Jesse Upham. Joseph Board man, Samuel Sprague, Peter Barrett. 3.00 Josiah Fuller, 1.00 3.00 Moses Rand, 1 .00 2.00 James Howard, 1 .00 1.50 James Green. Jr.. 1.00 3.00 Samuel Green, Jr., 2.00 1. 00 Jonathan Barrett, 3.00 1. 00 Issac \'inton. 2.00 ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY. 137 Benjamin Porter, Isaac Emerson, Edward Emerson, Asa Hart, Robert Gary, Phineas Sprague, 2.00 James L. Green, 1. 00 I .00 Charles Fuller, 1. 00 I .00 Cotton Sprague, 3.00 1. 00 Jonas Green, 5.00 1. 00 Hermon Sturtevant, 1 .00 1.50 Hanson Connor, 1. 00 Total, $45.00 A few months later another petition was circulated for the same purpose, in order to continue the services: Malden, Sept. i6t'i 181 3. We the Subscribers do several!}' agree to pay the sums set against our Names for the support of Methodist Preaching at the North District School House. Jesse Upham, Phineas Sprague, William Emerson, Jonathan Barrett, Cotton Sprague, Phineas Sprague, Jr., Jesse Upham, Jr., Jonas Green, Jr., Isaac Vinton, Samuel Green, Jr., Asa Upham, Isaac Emerson, Joseph Boardman, James Howard, Samuel Sprague, Amos Upham, Benjamin Porter. 2.00 Joseph Richardson. 1. 00 1.50 Moses Rand, 1. 00 3.00 \\'illiam Edmunds, 1. 00 3.00 Charles Fuller, .50 3.00 Phineas Green, 2.00 3.00 Benjamin L3'nde, Jr., 1. 00 3.00 Jonas Green, 2.00 2.00 Joseph Fuller, .50 2.00 Jonathan Boardman, 2.00 2.00 Thomas Green, 2.00 2.00 Hanson Connor, 1. 00 2.00 Joseph Lynde, Jr.. 2.00 2.00 Edward Emerson, 2.00 I .00 George Emerson, 1 .00 1. 00 Barse Sturtevant. 1. 00 2.00 2.00 Joseph Howard, 2.50 Total, ^59.oo Mr. Merritt was succeeded by Re\-. Epaphras Kilby, who also preached four Sabbaths. He was succeeded b\' Rev. Thomas C. Pierce, who remained six months,, at a salary of $2 per Sabbath. The next preacher, Rev. Ephraim Wiley, remained three \'ears, from 1814 to 1817, the same salary being- voted: "half the amount of S2 a Sabbath be paid at the end of the first six months, and the remainder at the close of the year." A portion of this time he lixed in two rooms of the house of Capt. Phineas Sprague, on Main Street, opposite Ell Pond, now occupied by Samuel H. Nowell. 138 HISTORY OF MELROSE. Considering the salary received we are not surprised to learn that Mr. Wiley worked through the week at his trade, that of shoe-making, often with a book open before him studying to prepare for the next Sunday's services. ^ During his term of service, in 1815, a revival took place, during- which time, he was aided by the famous Father Taylor of Boston. In consequence of continued interest and success, this same year a Church was organized; and in 18 18, while Rev. Orlando Hinds was pastor, a meeting-house was built at the junction of Main Street, with Green Street, then a portion of the old Reading Road. This edifice was thirty feet long by thirty-two feet wide. Its cost, land and all, was §1,500. The subscrip- tion paper circulated for this object was headed as follows: Whereas, it is for the improvement and good of the public, as well as for the salvation and comfort of individuals, to support public worship and provide religious instruction, and as it is necessary for the comfort of those who meet for divine service to have suitable places to assemble in, the members and friends of the Methodist Society in North Maiden are resolved to build in said town, a house for public worship on the following conditions: These conditions were that the house was to be a neat, com- fortable one, with free seats, and to be in charge of certain trustees, according to the discipline of the Methodist Episco- pal Church. Mr. Hinds, who still received the same munifi- cent salary of $2 per Sabbath, headed the petition with the sum of $20. This was self-denial indeed! Others gave from $1 to $40. In 1 819, Re\-. Isaac Jennison became the pastor, during whose term of three \'ears, a very stirring re\-ival took place; services were held morning, noon and night for several weeks in succession. In 1820, Rev. Ephraim Wiley again preached for a year, being sent this time by the Methodist Conference. Next in succession came Rev. Messrs. Leonard Frost, E. Steel, John Adams, Samuel Norris, Serene Fisk, Thomas F. Norris, and Aaron Josselyn. About this time, 1827, certain members became dissatisfied with the form of government existing in the Methodist Epis- copal Church; trials and troubles began; and quite a number 1 Mrs. Frank J. Hunt in Melrose Journal, Nov. 3, 1S88. ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY. 139 of the members withdrew and formed the second religious society, the Protestant Methodist Church. This was m 1828. The end of this movement is o-iven in the history of the First Baptist Church. The Methodist Episcopal Church, under the successive pas- torates, then varying from one to two years in length, of Rev. Messrs. Geo. W. Fairbanks, LaRo>' Sunderland, Ezra Sprague, R. D. Estabrook, Ebenezer Ireson, J. T. Burrill, S. Osgood Wright, Timothy Merritt, James Mudge, Ralph W. Allen, David Culver, Henry B. Skinner, C. Hayward and Walter Wilkie, continued to occupy their meeting-house until 1842, when, under the pastorate of Rev. William Rice, the building was enlarged, improved, and rededicated November 30, of that year. The first sexton was hired in 1837, at a salary of $10 per annum. Then followed in succession as pastors, Rev. Messrs. Daniel Richards, Henry M. Bridge, Nathaniel Bemis, John C. Ingalls, Francis A. Griswold, John M. Merrill, Mark Staples, W'illiam H. Hatch, James Shepard, W'illiam C. High and John W. Perkins. This enlarged house of worship con- tinued to be occupied until 1857, when it was sold to George F. Boardman, mo\-ed to near the corner of Main and Essex Streets, changed into " Concert Hall," and was destroyed by fire, November 30, 1875, with Boardman's Block, just thirty- three }-ears from the da\' it was dedicated. Mr. Perkins was stationed here in 1854. A new edifice being much needed for the growing Church, he succeeded in raising money, sufficient to accomplish the object; a building com- mittee was appointed, but "the iron law of itinerac\' " removed Mr. Perkins, and the work was completed under the pastorate of his successor. Rev. Nathan D. George. The edifice was completed and dedicated April i, 1857, the Rev. E. O. Haven, D. D., preaching the dedication sermon. The land on which the church stands was given by Isaac Emerson, father of the late Isaac Emerson, Jr., and of George Emerson, Richard Watson Emerson and Mrs. John Massey, still with us. The clock in the audience room was the gift of Rev. Frederick Upham, D. D., a nati\e and former resident of our town. The first pastor settled in the new Meeting-house was Rev. J. Augustus Adams. He was followed in 1859 by Rew H. V. Degen, and in i860 by Abraham D. Merrill. Jeremiah L. 140 HISTORY OF MELROSE. Hanaford was pastor, 1861-62; George Prentice, 1863-64; Henry Baker, 1865-67; Frank K. Stratton, 1868-69; M. Emory Wright, 1870-72; (length of pastorate now extended to three 3^ears, if desired,) A. VV. Mills, 1873-74; S. B. Sweetser, 1875- 76; Isaac H. Packard, 1877-79; William Butler, D. D., 1880-82; John D. Pickles, 1883-85; Samuel Jackson, 1886-90; (pastorate now five years if desired,) Charles E. Davis, 1891-96; Joel M. Leonard, 1897-1900, and Charles H. Stackpole, I90i,and is the present pastor. ^ ■SB?""*—-- METHODIST Kl'ISCUPAL CHURCH AM) PARSONAGE. The church edifice was remodelled during the pastorate of Rc\'. S. B. Sweetzer, when the church parlor, choir gallery and a kitchen were added; and the rc-opcning serxices were held November 19, 1876. The present membership of the Church is as follows: Full members, 568; members on probation, 40; total, 608. ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY. 141 The fiftieth anniversary of the introduction of Methodism into the town, was celebrated in 1862, during the pastorate of the late Rev. Jeremiah L. Hanaford, long a resident and honored citizen of Melrose; sermon by Elder Aaron Sargent. The seventy-fifth anniversary of the formation of the Church was observed in 1888, Rev. Samuel Jackson, pastor. Bishop Randolph S. Foster, D. D., preached the anniversary sermon. The first parsonage of this church, was the long-time resi- dence of one of its old members, Isaac Emerson, situated on Main street, on land adjoining the church lot, Mr. Emerson died April 18, 1861, aged 72 years. He was one of the first contributors to the enterprise in 181 3, and was the first Town Treasurer, after Melrose was incorporated in 1850. A new and handsome parsonage was built on the site of the old one in 1890, which cost $5,700 above the land. During the year 1897, '^ was found that the graceful steeple had become somewhat decayed and rendered unsafe; there- fore it was cut off down to the bell-tower, thus lea\ing it less pleasing to the eye than fomerly. As the church building was fast getting too small for the increasing membership and parish, a movement was begun this same year, looking toward the building of a new edifice, which was so generously and enthusiastically received, that undoubtedly, a larger and handsomer one will take the place of the old one in the near future, as a large sum is already pledged and on deposit for that purpose. During the ministry of Rev. Samuel Jackson, 1 886-90, several young men belonging to this Church, moved with a missionary spirit, began work in the somewhat retired district situated southwest of Swain's Pond, and east of Lebanon Street. Their labors were fruitful; religious services were held, a Sabbath School begun, and in 1891, a chapel was erected on Swain's Pond Avenue, and dedicated December 20, of that year, by Rev. J, H. Mansfield, D. D., Presiding Elder of the Lynn District. The late Charles Pratt, in his will, left SiO.OOO to the Stewards of the Methodist Episcopal Church of Melrose, to be used for " Christian Missions." This was the amount his estate was to receive after his death, for the sale of his old farm homestead on Lebanon Street, to the Town of Melrose, for cemetery purposes; the town giving its note for the same, 142 HISTORY OF MELROSE. and Mr. Pratt to receive the interest only during his remaining years. Out of this generous bequest, this Swain's Pond Chapel was built; and it is very appropriately named "The Pratt Memorial." A Sabbath School and religious services were sustained in this chapel by the Methodist Church for a num- ber of years, but it has now been leased b}' the Congregational Church of Maplewood, Rev. Charles S. Macfarland, pastor. The Sabbath School of the parent Church, the oldest one in Melrose, was first organized in June, 1824, under the pastorate of Rev. Samuel Norris, who acted as superintendent. It numbered thirty members all told, and in August, a library- was bought consisting of thirteen \olumes, only one being a bound book. Among its superintendents, the late Fernando C. Taylor held that office for a period of twenty-five years. The present membership of the School, with officers and teach- ers, is 506, and Francis P. Luce is the present superintendent. It has a library of 600 \olumes. Still another Sabbath School is connected with the Metho- dist Church. This is known as the " East Side Mission." It is held, together with weekly religious exercises, in the old school-house, built in 1856, on Upham Street, near East Street. It has 167 members, and VV, DeHa\'en Jones is the superin- tendent. This makes a total Sabbath School membership under the jurisdiction of the Methodist Episcopal Church, of 960. Affiliated with the East Side Mission is the East Side Ladies' Aid Association. The affiliated societies of the Church are the Epworth League, Woman's Foreign Missionary Society, Woman's Home Missionar\^ Society, the Ladies' Aid Society, the Maternal Association and the Methodist Brotherhood. The Melrose Orthodox Congreg.\tioxal Church. Very earh' in the present century, and long before the Orthodox Church was formed, preaching services were held occasional!)' by Congregational ministers, either in the little old unpaintcd school-house, situated on the old road, now Lebanon Street, on a knoll then existing very near where now lives Deacon John Buffum, or, in the parlors of some North Maldenite. These were generally conducted by the resident pastor of the Maiden Centre Church. By the >-ear 1848, after the Railroad had been opened from Boston to Lawrence, it was found tliat (]uite' a number of ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY. 143 members of Congregational Churches had become residents of North Maiden; besides others, not members, whose sympathies were in this direction; and soon religious ser\^ices began to be held; first, in the house of Dr. Levi Gould, then living on Main Street, opposite the present Methodist Episcopal Church, in the house now standing and belonging to the heirs of the late George W. Farnsworth. There are those now living who well remember these services, and the part they took in preparing for them; among them Levi S. Gould and Edwin C. Gould; these young boys brought chairs from the neighbors' houses, to accommodate the audiences. Previous to these meetings. Dr. Gould would often take some one of like persuasion in his chaise, and attend church; sometimes in Stoneham and some- times in Wakefield. After two, possibly three, of these Sunday services at Dr. Gould's the parlors of Deacon Jonathan Cochran, on Grove Street, being larger, were opened for these meetings; and here, April 25, 1848, began the first preaching services, bv Rev. Stillman Pratt, who afterwards became the first settled pastor. After a few weeks, the audiences increasing mean- while, the passenger room of the Boston and Maine Railroad Station was obtained for this purpose; and here was formed the Sunday School, with James L. Crosett acting as leader. This was in the days of quiet, before the ad\ent of Sunday trains! Here w^ere held preaching services, and the sessions of the Sunday School for several weeks. This building still stands on Essex Street, and is now used as the freight depot. Steps were soon taken for the organization of a Church, and a preliminary meeting of brethren was held Ma_v 21, 1848, when the Articles of Faith and Covenant, as held bv the Church of Stoneham were adopted; and a committee consist- ing of Jonathan Cochran and James L. Crosett, was appointed to call a Council of Churches to advise, and if deemed ex- pedient, to form a Church in accordance with the Congre- gational form. The Council met in the Academy Building, then on Berwick Street, afterwards moved to Main Street, and known as Lyceum Hall, on July ii, 1848. The Churches represented were from Reading, Wakefield, Maiden, Stone- ham, Lynnfield, Chelsea, P2verett, then South Maiden, Saugus, and Medford. The Council approxx-d the proposed plan, and the Melrose Orthodox Congregational Church was then organ- 144 HISTORY OF MELROSE. ized, with reading of the minutes, invocation, consecrating prayer, sermon by Rev. Isaac P. Langworthy, and other cus- tomary exercises. The Rev. Stillman Pratt became the first pastor, being called April i8, and was installed May 17, 1849. He had acted as their minister for several months previous. Mr. Pratt took part in the Bi-Centennial Celebration of Maiden, which occurred May 23, 1849, writing an original hymn for the occasion, which was sung to the tune of " North Bend," two stanzas of which follow: Two hundred years have rolled away Since here our fathers came ; And we their sons come here to-day To celebrate their fame. God of the nations ! in Thy sight A thousand years are one, — Oh ! here defend us b)' Thy might, Then take us to thy throne. The original members, twehe in number, who joined by letter from other churches, July ii, were as follows: Jonathan Cochran, Levi Gould, Mary Cochran, Tristram Bird, Seth Rich, Sylva Bird, James L. Crosett, Mary S. Manning, Elizabeth D. Crosett, Mary R. Pratt, Lucinda Howard, Olive Carey. Only one of these members is now living, Mrs. Elizabeth D. Crosett, now of San Francisco, California; she was one of the Sunday School teachers, and one of the choir singers. Some moved away, taking letters to other churches. Dr. Gould died January 6, 1850; Deacon Cochran died January 6, 1885, aged 93 years and 6 months, having been deacon thirt}-- six years; all the others who remained in Melrose have joined the " silent majority," Very soon after the Church was formed, a movement was made to build a meeting-house, which was accomplished through the unwearied efforts of Dr. Le\"i Gould, Dea. Jonathan Cochran, James L. Crosett and others, who not only solicited contributions, but two of them at least, Dr. Gould and Dea. Cochran worked on the foundations of the building with pick and shovel. Land was bought on West Foster Street, the meet- ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY. 145 ing-house commenced in October, 184S, and completed and dedicated May 17, 1849; but services had been held in the ves- try as soon as it was completed, March 11, about two months before. The land and building cost $3,500 ; of this amount the society raised about S400, among themselves, S600 was con- tributed by members of neighboring churches, and the remain- ing $2,500 was placed on mortgage. For four >'ears after its organization the Church was aided in its current expenses, in sums ranging from S44 to S200 per annum, a total of S619, by the Massachusetts Home Missionary Society. The Church then, in 1852, numbered twenty-four members. Concerning the early days of its history the first Church Manual, published in 1859, has the following: Very much was due in the early history of the church and in results reached, under God, to the earnest and faithful labors of the first pastor, Rev. Stillman Pratt, and the brethren associated with him. It should also be added, as showing that God has carried us through dark days, that in the early part of 1853, the Meeting House was taken possession of by the mortgagee, and with heavy hearts brethren removed the furniture of the pews. This gentleman, however, made a liberal offer to the society, and by earnest and continued efforts, a sum sufficient to satisfy the mortgagee was raised, chiefly among them- selves, and liberal friends in Boston and elsewhere, and possession of the house resumed. And from the Revised Manual oi 1892: It is difficult at the present time to realize all that this first venture meant to the few brave souls who constituted the little church. They were but a handful and gave literally " of their poverty that others might be rich." The population was sparse, and the territory only a few oldtime farms, with here and there rocky ledges, rough bits" of pasture, and clumps of stunted pine. This little original white-painted church edifice, with its clock and steeple, was enlarged, remodelled, and made over into a building of Gothic architectural design during the year 1858, at a cost of Si0,000. It was re-dedicated January 5, 1859, with a sermon by Rev. Edward N. Kirk, D. D.^ of Boston. There is no view of the original church building in existence. In one of its small vestries, a part of the town's primar\- school was held one or more seasons. There are yet members of the Church and congregation, whose memory clusters around 146 HISTORY OF MELROSE. the past events, and who bring to mind the pleasant scenes and occurences which took place in the little white church during its history before its absorption in the more stately structure. ORTHODOX CONGKIiGATIONAL CHCRCn. I-rom Painting by T. C. Bartholomew. The remodeled church was burned Februar}- it, 1869. In the picture will be obser\-ed a small house which was consumed at the same time. This stood where now stands the residence of Mrs. Emma Burnham. It was then a tenement containing two families, and it has a somewhat interesting history. The original building was the little iui}jainted school-house, before ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY. 147 spoken of, and which is minutely described in the chapter on " Educational History." It was not only the school-house in those early days, but various religious services were often held therein, before any church building existed. It was after- wards bought, in 1828, by the Methodist Protestant Society, moved to the corner of Main and Upham (then Church) Streets, where it remained until that society built its new church in 1842; meanwhile having become often called the " Duck Pen." It was then moved to the corner of Myrtle and West Foster Streets, and there burned, as stated. Not at all disheartened at this calamity, the society immediately took steps to build another church. Subscriptions were made, a large lot of land containing 48,800 square feet, at the corner of West Foster and Willow Streets, and adjoining the old church lot, was purchased, and the corner-stone laid November 24, 1869. On this occasion, an address was made by the pastor, Rev. Albert G. Bale, an historical statement made by Deacon Calvin N. Chapin, and a box containing a variety of articles, coins, newspapers, the Melrose Memonal, etc., was placed beneath the stone. The church was finished and dedi- cated October 26, 1870, with a sermon by the pastor, and an address by Rev. Isaac P. Langworthv. During its erection public worship was held in Lyceum Hall, Main Street, formerly the old Melrose Academy, on Berwick Street, in which the Church was first organized and where some of its services were held. The land and building cost $42,000. Extensive repairs were made in 1890, during which time a handsome memorial window was placed in the front vestibule, by Maurice G. Cochrane, in honor of his grandfather, Jonathan Cochran, so long its senior deacon. The first pastor, Mr. Pratt, resigned in April, 185 1, and Rev. Isaac H. Northrop was installed January 15, 1852. He was dismissed in March, 1853, and the Rev. Alexander J. Sessions was installed in January, 1854. His relationship ceased in 1858, and Rev. P:dward H. Buck became the pastor. He died January 31, 1861. Rev. Henry A. Stevens succeeded, being ordained September 12, 1861, remaining until May, 1868. He was succeeded by Rev. Albert G. Bale, who was ordained December 3, 1868. After an unusually long pastorate of twenty-seven and a half \-ears, Mr. Bale resigned in Ma>-, 1S96, remaining until July 15. 148 HISTORY OF MELROSE. At the meeting of the Church, held ]\Ia}' 4. at which time his resignation was accepted, the following resolutions were presented by Elbridge H. Goss, and adopted. Whereas. The Rev. Albert G. Bale having resigned the pastorate of the Melrose Orthodox Congregational Church, and the same having been accepted, it is fitting that some expression of the relations that have existed between us for a period of over twenty-seven j-ears, be adopted b}' us here assembled ; therefore ; Resolved, That it is with deep feelings of regret that the pleasant ties that have so long existed between pastor and people are now to be sundered. He has been in and out with us, these many years, in our sorrows and in our joys; -our cheerful and helpful counsellor both to young and old; has given aid and comfort, unreservedly, wherever and whenever needed. Resolved, That to whatever station in life he may hereafter be called, we can recommend him as a scholar of high cultureand deep experience ; a thinker, sound and logical ; a mind, well stored from wide reading and travel; in knowledge, profound and far-reaching. Resolved, That we can testify to a walk in life among his people, with a character unimpeachable ; unstained by the faintest breath of suspicion ; a heart ever open to distress ; full of kindliest sympathy ; a disposition the most charitable ; in short, a man bearing away with him the universal respect and admiration of all with whom he has been associated, whether of our church and parish, or of his fellow townsmen. Resolved. That it is the heart}^ desire of this Church, that wherever his lot may be cast, the choicest blessings of God may be with him and his ; that the consolation and sustaining influence of that religion he has so earnestly and faithfully set before his people, may be experi- enced by him through the remaining years of his life. Resolved. That these resolutions be spread upon the Church rec- ords, and that a copy of the same be sent to the Rev. A. G. Bale, by the Clerk of the Church. At a meeting of the Church held March 3, 1897, a call was extended to Rev. Thomas Sims, D. D., late of Toronto, Canada, to become its pastor; and at a special meeting of the Society held March 18, the action of the Church was concurred in. The services of installation were waived, and in their stead a mutual agreement for a three years' pastorate was made, and the services of recognition were held May 25, 1897. ^^' dresses were made by Rev. R. A. Beard, D. D., Rev. George A. Tewksbury, Rev. J. Cooper Antliff, D. D., Rev. Joel M. Leonard, Ph. D., Rev. Burke F. Lea\itt, Deacon W'illiam Mc- Cartney, and the Pastor. ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY. 149 From the day the Church was organized to the present, year by year, members have joined by letter, and by profes- sion of faith; members have died, or have removed to other parts of the land; many have been dismissed to other churches, but there has been a constantly increasing growth until the OkTHUUUX CONGKEGATIOXAI, CHIKCH. present time, when the membership is 496. Since the Church was organized there have been connected with it nine hundred and seventy-nine (979) members; fixe hundred and eight}'-two (582) came by letters from other churches, and three hundred and ninety-se\'en (397) by profession of faith. 150 HISTORY OF MELROSE. The Sunday School was organized in the Melrose Depot, in 1S48, when it had but few scholars, and was under the leader- ship of James L. Crosett. As soon as the vestry of the church was sufficiently advanced to allow the Sabbath School to meet and organize therein, Dr. Le^"i Gould became the first superintendent. From that time the school has prospered, increasing year by year until the present, when it numbers 558 members, divided into primary, junior and senior departments. Some five years ago a home department was organized, and is now under the superintendency of Dea. Frank G. Kellogg, with over two hundred members. This consists of such per- sons as cannot well attend the Sunday School sessions con- tinuously, but receive the quarterlies used in the school, agree- ing to study the lesson at least a half hour each week. In connection with this department are twenty-four messenger bo}^s and a "Sunshine Band" of thirty-three members. The total membership of the school is 766. The Melrose Orthodox Congregational Society was incor- porated under the General Statutes, July 8, 1848, at which time, a meeting having been duly warned, a constitution and by-laws were adopted. The following persons were present and signed the constitution: Stillman Pratt, James L. Crosett, Tristram Bird, Moses Parker, Seth Rich, Joseph E. Stanwood, Jonathan Cochran, John Mclntire, Levi Gould, Nelson Cochran. Dr. Levi Gould was chosen first clerk of \.ht Society. Here are two distinct but closely allied bodies, Church and Society, each having an entirely different set of officers. The Church, with pastor, deacons, deaconesses, church benevolence and missionary committees, having jurisdiction over the preaching and prayer-meeting services, the choosing of the officers of the Sunday School, the communion table, benevolent contribu- tions, and care of the poor of the Church. The Society has general care and charge of all parish propert\', builds the edifice, raises all moneys for parish expenses, and unites with the Church in calling or dismissing a pastor. In 1882, a handsome parsonage was erected on the site of the old church, from architectural plans made by the then pastor, Rev. Mr. Bale, at a cost of S6,ooo. ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY. 151 The twenty-fifth anniversary of the organization of the Church was recognized in June, 1873, with an historical ser- mon by the pastor, Mr. Bale; as was also the fortieth anni- versary, when an historical sermon was delivered by Mr. Bale;- and on Sunday the 19th. and Monday the 20th of June, 1898, Church, Society, and Sunday School joined in celebrating the fiftieth anniversary. A sermon appropriate to the occa- sion was preached by the pastor, Rev. Thomas Sims, D. D., and addresses were made b>- Rev. Daniel March, D. D., Rev. Charles H. Daniels, D. D., and Rev. Smith Baker, D. D. Two past pastors were present. Rev. Albert G. Bale, and Rev- Henry A. Stevens, both of whom took part in the exercises. Also the living past superintendents of the Sunday School, whose names and terms of service are as follows: Deacon Calvin N. Chapin, 1854 to 1S69. Deacon Curtis C. Goss, January, 1S69, to January, 1874. Elbridge H. Goss, January, 1874, to January, 1875. Stephen A. Lovejoy, July, 1877, to January, 1878. Deacon Calvin N. Chapin, January, 1878, to January, 1879. John M. Small, January, 1879, to Januar>', 1880. Stephen A. Lovejoy, January, 1880, to January, 1882. Deacon Curtis C. Goss, January, 1882, to July, 1884. Albert B. Franklin, July, 1884, to July, 1887. George L. Morse, July, 1887, to July, 1890. Don E. Curtis, Jul>', 1890, to July, 1893. - This sermon was printed in the Melrose Journal. His text was Deut. viii, 2: "And thou shalt remember all the way which the Lord thy God led thee these forty years." Two extracts follow: " Through the mists of forty years shines a beautiful picture, when on that Sabbath moruing the fathers and mothers of this Church met for the first time in the room of the old Melrose Passenger Depot for the public worship of God. It seems more like a missionary meet- ing on the western frontier than But forty years ago no such charm- ing picture of suburban life met the eye, as now, from the crest of any one of these hills. Main Street was then, as at present, part of the main turnpike between Boston and Reading. Essex Street extended, then, only as far as Main Street on the east, and ending on the west in a cart-road leading into the woods. On the west side of the railroad was a continuous road from the Highlands. Upham and Howard Streets were the old roads to Sau- gus. There was not, at that time. the meeting of a Congregational a single house on Wyoming Hill, Church in old Massachusetts — on which was then a rocky blueberry one of its main railroad lines, and pasture." onlv seven miles from Boston. . . . 152 HISTORY OF MELROSE. Rev. John L. Kilbon, jr., July, 1893, to July, 1894. Don E. Curtis, July, 1894, to July, 1897. Frank G. Kellogg, July, 1897, ^o July, 1900. Don E. Curtis, July, 1900. to July, 1902. George A. Manning, July, 1902. Many former residents and members took the occasion to visit and renew the acquaintances of their old church home. The affiliated societies of this Church are as follows: Young People's Society of Christian Endeavor, Junior Young People's Society of Christian Endeavor, and Woman's Union. Under this head all other affiliated societies, benevolent and social, each having its separate superintendent or president, are as follows: Foreign Missions; Home Missions; Social Committee; Altruist Committee; Music Committee; and House- keeping Committee. The present officers of the Church are: Deacons, Calvin N. Chapin, John Buffum, Elbridge H. Goss, Moses S. Page, Thomas H. Tucker, George R. Jones, Frank G. Kellogg, Danforth D. Stratton and Albert B. Franklin. Deaconesses, Mrs. Florence M. Whitman, Mrs. Frances A. Brackett, Mrs. Caroline M. Cox, Miss Susan P. Harrold and Mrs. Frances J. Grout. Clerk, Isaac A. Cochran. Treasurer, John Buffum. Auditor, Wingate P. Sargent. Previous Church clerks as follows: Dr. Levi Gould served from July ii, 1848, to January, 1850; Samuel Harris, June," 1850, to Jul>% 1854; Edward P. Nevins, July, 1854, to January, 1861; Elbridge H. Goss, January, 1861, to December 29, 1874; Isaac A. Cochran, December 29, 1874. and is the present clerk. The present officers of the Societ\' are: Assessors, John Buffum, chairman, Moses S. Page and George R. Jones. Treasurer and collector, Elbridge H. Goss. Clerk, Lindley R. Browne. Auditor, Isaac A. Cochran. These together form the prudential committee, and ha\^e the general charge of all parish affairs. Previous treasurers: Seth Rich, Dr. Moses Parker and .'\lverse L. White, who served from 1852 to 1867. Pre\ious clerks: Dr. Le\i Gould, Nelson Cochran and Curtis C. Goss, who scr\ed from 1866 to 1897.'^ ^ Possibly others served as treas- sou Cochran aud Curtis C. Goss; urersbetweeuDr.ParkeraudA.lv. but names cannot be giveu as White, aud as clerks between Nel- records were burned and charred ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY. 153 George A. Thompson has been organist of the Societ>^ for twenty-seven years. In the year 1897, the Sunday School had become so large that the chapel could not accommodate all the different departments; and it was found necessary to have the inter- mediate department meet in the church auditorium. Just before this, in September, 1896, the Altruists, while Frank G. Kellogg was president, inaugurated a movement to raise money with which to purchase a carpet for the chapel, and procure some decorations for its walls, which resulted in raising a moderate but insufificient sum. Soon after, under the en- thusiastic and persistent efforts of Mr. Kellogg, then superin- tendent of the Sunday School, the still wider purpose of enlarging the chapel was adopted, that all might be accomo- dated therein; and with the cooperation of the church and parish committees, a s}'stem of weekly oft'erings b}' Church and Sunday School was commenced and continued through the years 1897 and 1898, which resulted in raising the sum of $2,500, which was placed in the hands of the chapel fund committee, consisting of Frank G. Kellogg, Don E. Curtis, Curtis C. Goss, George R. Jones, Franklin P. Shumway, Isaac A. Cochran and Elbridge H. Goss, which had been appointed by the Altruists. By a renewed effort, continued through the year 1899, the sum was increased to $6,000 by cash and pledges. This sum was deemed sufficient by the prudential commit- tee to warrant the Societ}' to proceed with the alterations and enlargement; and preliminar}- plans were obtained and sub- mitted to the Parish by the chapel fund committee; and at a duly called meeting of the Parish the following were chosen as a building committee : ^Albert B. Franklin, Chairman; George R. Jones, John Buffum, John jNI. Small, and Lindley R. Browne, Clerk. Messrs. Hartwell, Richardson & Driver, architects, were employed by this committee, and new plans were made b}' them for the enlargement, and when submitted it was found that it \\ould require a much larger sum than $6,000 to accomplish the desired object. A new and urgent effort was then made, asking for cash contributions and pledges covering the period of one, two and three years. in the "Great Fire" of November collector from 1S58 to 1867, when 9, 10, 1872. E. H. Goss served as the offices were united. 154 HISTORY OF MELROSE. The matter was presented to the Society, on Sunday morning, instead of the regular service, by Albert B. Franklin, and the sum of $10,000 was raised, which added to the amount previ- ously raised made a total of $i6,000. This result was received with great gratification. Subsequent pledges raised the total to $16,106.99. At this time, the spring of 1900, there had been a conviction growing in the parish and community, that the main church building was in an unsafe condition. An examination by the state inspectors, and the architects, Messrs. Hartwell, Rich- ardson & Driver, resulted in the building being condemned. Services therein were at once prohibited by the prudential committee. Plans for the strengthening of the edifice were im- mediately made, and it was found necessary to take $5,677.22 of the above sum raised for the enlargement of the chapel, for this purpose. A contract was made with Angus Mac Donald, and under the charge of the building committee, this strengthening was accomplished by placing eight columns from the foundation, with cross-beams in the auditorium. A new chancel was con- structed, a new system of ventilation for both church and chapel introduced, new windows substituted, and the interior re-plastered and re-frescoed. This was successfully and satis- factorily accomplished, and services for the re-opening of the church were held October 14, 1900, with an appropriate sermon by the pastor, and other exercises. The chapel building was materially enlarged on its westerly side, under contract with Mr. MacDonald. This has given spacious rooms for- the junior and primary departments, a pastor's room, choir room, library room, and in the basement, toilet rooms, coat rooms and kitchen; and on the northerly end an extra entrance. New windows and other improve- ments were made in the main chapel room. The total cost of this enlargement and these improvements, was $11,066.79; making a total outlay of $16,744.01, of which $139.89 was paid by the ladies, from the chapel furnishing fund. This over- run the total amount raised for this purpose about $500, which sum was raised by subscription at a business men's banquet held in the chapel, February 5, 1900. These changes were made and the School met in the newlv arranged and finished quarters on Sunda}', November 18, 1900. Meanwhile Sunday ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY. 155 School services had been held in the Y. M. C. A. Rooms, as had the preaching services of the parish, with the exception of four, which were held in the City Hall, by permission of the Board of Aldermen. While out of a church home, kind and generous offers of other societies, inviting the Church to hold its services in their meeting-houses, were received. Such was the case with the Universalist, the Baptist and the Methodist Societies. It should be recorded that the same kindly offers were tendered when the church was burned in 1869. Great credit should be given to the building committee for its successful work; especiall\- to its chairman, Mr. Franklin, for his energetic and unwearied effort in carrying these various improvements to a successful termination, and to the great satisfaction of all the members of the Melrose Orthodox Congregational Parish. The Melrose Highlands Congregational Church. The first attempt to hold religious exercises at the Highlands was made in the spring of 1857, when Deacon Augustus Durant commenced a Sunday School in the Franklin Street School- house. This was discontinued when winter came, although a Bible class was taught by him through the following winter, which met at different houses. Soon after this one of the most fortunate of things happened to the Highlands in the arrival of a gentleman of religious convictions and enthusiasm, with his bride. It were idle for us to speculate on what would have been done to care for the religious life of the people if they had not made their home in this place under the rocks ; for in other hearts the question had been asked, "What shall we do?" But, having once taken up their abode here, a Church was a foregone conclusion. I need not tell you that this man was our venerable but youthful Deacon Joel Snow, and that the bride was his good wife. It was the twelfth day of October, 1859, when they came ; and now, for over twenty-seven years, they have been foremost in every good work.-*^ The Church here foreshadowed was organized in 1875. For some years previous to this preaching services had been fre- quently held; some were out of doors, generally at the arch- way embankment on Melrose Street, when pastors from the centre of the town officiated; and others in the loft of the * From Origin and Grozvth of Highlands, a sennou preached Nov. the Religious Movement, at Melrose i, 1886, by Rev. John G. Taylor. 156 HISTORY OF MELROSE. stable building then situated on the corner of Tremont and Franklin Streets, which came to be known as the "Highland Chapel;" the use of which had been given by Deacon George W. Chipman, who, in the fall of i86i, altered and furnished it for that purpose; fitting the lower story for a dwelling. In this chapel, not only these preaching services were held, but BIRTHPLACE OF CHURCH. regular weekly prayer meetings. Later, the Highlands Union Sunday School, formed February 21, 1869. with the names of forty-five persons as "charter members," and with Deacon Calvin N. Chapin, as its superintendent, met regularly in the chapel. During these preliminary years, preaching services were ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY. 157 continued quite regularly, the pulpit being mostly supplied by pastors from the centre of the town. Among others were Thomas J. Clithero and A. E. Higgins, students from the Boston Theological Seminary, the latter continuing until a few months before the Church was organized, which event took place September 29, 1875, with thirty-nine members; thirty- three by letter, and six on profession of faith; of the original members, twenty-one were Congregationalists, seven Method- ists, four Baptists, and one Lutheran; the entire membership represented fifteen different churches. Rev. D. Allen More- house, who had been supplying the pulpit for a few months, was installed as its first pastor, with a sermon by Rev. William H. Willcox, D. D., of Reading. A silver communion service was presented to the new Church by the Mystic Church of Medford. In August, 1876, Mr. Morehouse resigned, and on Novem- ber 19, of the same year. Rev. John G. Taylor was installed as his successor. Very soon after this, Mr. Taylor began to agitate the subject of building a church edifice; and by dint of persistent effort and hard struggling, this worthy object was successfully accomplished. A building committee was ap- pointed, land bought on the corner of Franklin and Ashland Streets, ground broken April 25, 1878, the corner-stone laid September 13, 1879, and the church dedicated September 29, 1880. Five years later a chapel was built, adjoining the church, the cost of the whole being $14,150. In 1883 Mr. Taylor went abroad for fourteen months, and Re\'. Henry Bates officiated as pastor. For nine years this young Church was nourished by the Massachusetts Home Missionary Society, which contributed to its running expenses. In a sermon preached b}' Mr. Taylor, Januar}- 9, 1887, he said: We talk of ourselves now in the words of ten years ago, without thinking that we have bought a large lot of land, built two houses of worship, or a church and a chapel, relinquished a yearly income of S300 at first and $150 later from the Missionary Society, and received into the church since its organization, exclusive of the 39 original members, 1 12 persons, and since I began my work with j-ou in Novem- ber, '76, 106 persons. In other departments of church work the growth has been correspondingly encouraging. And a week later, in his Tenth A>iiiii'ersary Ser)noii: 158 HISTORY OF MELROSE. When I first became acquainted with you, you were about fourteen months old, and had a membership of fortj'-five. Of this world's goods you had but verj- little, — only a small reed organ, and a few settees, and chairs, and lamps. It was primitive enough for the year 1620 at Plymouth. Underneath this hall in the loft lived a good woman, whose staunch piety was of more worth than any cornerstone of granite could be, and in one corner of the first floor was a room with a large window, in which were tempting bits of merchandise, and afterwards candies, and bread, and sweetmeats. No room in the House of Seven Gables could have been more worth)- of the story- teller's pen. The stairway up which we climbed, like Pilgrims going up the hill which overlooks Plymouth Bay, landed us not far from a large stove, and just far enough from the side of the room to save our heads from bumping against the slanting roof. On the other side, the singers poured forth their feelings in good music, guiding a congrega- tion which had not lived long enough to forget how to sing ; while in the north end, just under the gable window, the minister stood behind a pulpit which had been made out of an old school desk, draped in scarlet. In July, 1892, the Church voted to become incorporated under the General Statutes, and by due process became a corporation, following which action the Melrose Highlands Congregational Society voted to transfer its property inter- ests and effects to the incorporated Church, which trust was accepted by vote of the Church, July 21, 1893. Mr. Taylor resigned March 30, 1893; soon after which a call was extended to Rev. Burke F. Lea\'itt; and after several weeks of con- sideration he accepted. He entered upon his duties October 15, 1893, and was installed No\'ember i. He had been pre- \iously settled in the ministry in Portland, Chicago, and Oregon. The Parish now grew so rapidly that it was found to be in straightened circumstances; and very soon after Mr. Leavitt was settled the building of a new church edifice was success- fully agitated. The old church was sold to George J. Bicknell, for the sum of $1,000, and mo\ecl across the street to the land where once existed the little Highland Pond, which had then been filled up. Soon after it was bought by the Shepard Manu- facturing Company, and is now used as the factory for its ex- tensive siKxM'-ware business. Ground was broken for the new church edifice April 23, 1895, the corner-stone laid June 29, 1895, ^^^ 't ^^'ss dedicated January- 2, 1896. It is a large, well ECCLESIA S TIC A L HIS TOR Y. 159 arranged building, having all the appointments of the modern church structure, and a seating capacity of 750. Its total cost was $21,689. A number of its stained-glass windows were given by Sabbath School classes; its organ by the ladies of the parish; and a fine toned bell, weighing 2,300 pounds, costing $350 was given by the Sabbath School. The following figures, given at the fifth anniversary of the settlement of Mr. Leavitt, show not only a successful pastor- ate, but indicate the rapid growth of that portion of our town. During that period the new church was built; $28,259 raised for home expenses — twice as much as during the previous five HIGHLANDS CONGREGATIONAL CHURCH. years — and for benevolent objects $3,206. against $1,349 for the previous period; 237 members were added to the church, 117 on profession. Present number of members, 362. The affiliated organizations of this Church are as follows: Young People's Society of Christian Endeavor, Men's Chris- tian League, Women's Christian League, Young Men's Chris- tian League, Societ>' of King's Daughters, and Junior Christian Endeavor Societ)'. Deacon Chapin continued as superintendent of the Sunday School for five years, when he resigned, and was succeeded b^' 160 HISTORY OF MELROSE. Florentine S. Shaw, for three years. Then Deacon William W. Mason was elected, when, having moved away, he was suc- ceeded in 1882, by Paul Hayward. He was succeeded in 1885, by Alfred Blanchard. In 1892, Deacon- Mason having again become a resident of the Highlands, was again chosen superin- tendent, and was succeeded by the present superintendent, Walter H. Todd. Present membership of the School, including the home department is 580. The deacons are: Angus MacDonald, Frederick A. Films, W. S. Fawcett, Richard Hicks, W. E. Stanley, Samuel Thurs- ton, Fred A. Houdlette and George W. Bears. Clerk, George W. Basford. Treasurer and collector, James W. Murray. The Twenty-fifth Anniversary was celebrated by the Church, with services extending from September 28, to October 3, 1900, during which time an anniversary sermon was preached by the pastor. Rev. Burke F. Leavitt, an historical address by Rev, John G. Taylor, an address by Deacon Calvin N. Chapin, the first superintendent, an address by Rev. C. I. Scofield, and a banquet, with vocal and instrumental music freely interspersed throughout the exercises. The First Baptist Church. In the year 1828, several members of the Methodist Episcopal Church became dissatis- fied with the form of Church government, left it, and formed themselves into a Protestant Methodist Church. They soon after purchased of the North Maiden school district, the little, old, unpainted school-house, hereafter to be described, which stood near the corner of the old road, now Lebanon Street, and Upham Lane, now Upham Street. This they en- larged somewhat, and dedicated it as a place of worship in 1830. It then had seventeen members, and the first pastor was Rev. Thomas F. Norris. More or less ill feeling and controversy had existed, and continued to exist, between this Church and the Methodist Episcopal Church, which was formed several years before this, and, in the process of time, and for some reason, no one knows why, this church building was stigmatized with the name of the " Duck Pen;" and that of the Methodist Episco- pal Church, at the junction of Green and Main Streets, as the "Cider Mill." The after history of the " Cider Mill" has been given in the sketch of the Methodist Episcopal Church; that of the "Duck Pen" in the sketch of the Melrose Ortho- dox Congregational Church. ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY. 161 In 1841, the Church having- outgrown this little school-house structure, which had accommodated it since 1830, steps were taken, and a new edifice was built and dedicated. The little broadside containing- the "Order of Exercises at the Dedi- cation of the First Methodist Protestant Church, Maiden, (North), January 27th, 1842," announces the hymns, anthems, dedicatory pra}'er, sermon, etc., but gives no names of those who took the various parts. For over a quarter of a century the Protestant Methodist Church maintained its organization, but not without a severe struggle and a considerable loss of membership. Meanwhile a number of Baptists had mo\-ed into North Maiden; and Janu- ary I, 1856, the First Baptist Church of Melrose, was org-anized with thirteen members of Baptist churches, and eight Protes- tant Methodists, that remained. This list of members was as follows: Rev. Thorndike C. Jameson, Caroline C. Bickford, Mrs. Thorndike C. Jameson, Lucy Randall, Eliza J. Shelton, Caroline Jones, William B. Burgess, Caleb Howard, Ransom J. Norton, Madeline S. Howard, Mrs. Ransom J. Norton, George Howard, Elizabeth Wood, Addison Lane, William Dix, Clarissa Jackson, Mrs. George Upham, William Pierce, Betsey Converse, Cynthia Pierce, William J. Farnsworth. The only one of these original members now living is Addi- son Lane, now in his eighty-second year, and who for many years has been one of the deacons; and who was Superintend- ent of the Water Works for several }-ears, and Collector of Taxes for five years. The following is a copy of the vote passed by the Society previous to the formation of the Baptist Church: Caleb Howard Addison Lane & W. J. Farnsworth Trustees of the First Methodist Protestant Society in Melrose in consideration of $400 paid by the first Baptist Society in Melrose and in pursuance of a Vote of said Methodist Protestant Society passed Sept. 3 A D. 1855 Quit Claimed to Baptist Society its Successors & assigns a certain piece of land with Meeting house subject to a Mortgage of $1200 to H. Ban- croft. Signed this Sept 8 1855 acknowledged Sept 10 Reed Sept 18 1855 Lib. 722 fol 356, 7. 162 HISTORY OF MELROSE. The Protestant Methodists continued their organization but for a short time, the town allowing- them to meet in the old Engine House, recently removed from the northerly side of the Baptist Church, Rev. George Peirson acting as pastor. At the time of the formation of the Baptist Church, the propert}' consisted of the small church building erected in 1842, and the large lot of land on which it stood, at the corner of Main and Upham Streets; the Baptist Church assumed the FIRST BAPTIST CHURCH. indebtedness then resting upon the property, a mortgage of Si, 200, and, in addition, paid the Methodist Protestant Church, as per above vote, the sum of $400. This building was used by the Baptist Church until 1873, when it was sold to the St. Mary's Catholic Church, removed to Dell Avenue, used by that Society until the new church was built on Herbert Street, since which time it has been kncnvn as Lyceum Hall. The present brick church was erected in 1874, being dedi- cated with appropriate ceremonies Noxember 17, of that year. It cost $20,000. ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY. 163 The list of pastors, and length of pastorates, is as follows: Rev. Thorndike C. Jameson, from 1856 to 1858. Rev. James Cooper, from 1858 to 1862. Rev. Lewis Colby, from 1862 to 1864. Rev. William S. Barnes, from 1864 to 1868. Rev. James J. Peck, from 1869 to 1871. Rev. Almond Barrclle, from 1871 to 1875. Rev. Napoleon B. Thompson, from 1875 to 1876. Rev. Robert F. Tolman, from 1878 to 1886. Rev. George A. Cleveland, from 1886 to 1893, Rev. Joseph K. Wilson, from 1894 to 1898. Rev. Augustus E. Scoville, from 1899. The recognition services of the present pastor, Mr. Scoville, were held Tuesday evening, February 6, 1900, when addresses were mnde by Rev. John R. Gow, Prof. Charles R. Brown, Rev. Everett D. Burr, and our local pastors. Rev. William W.' Hackett, Rev. David M. Lockrow, Rev. Thomas Sims, D. D. and Rev. Edwin C. Bolles, D. D. The present membership of the Church is 450. Since its organization there have been 961 persons connected with the Church. The present deacons are Charles C. Barry, John E Marshall, William H. Flanders, William S. Allen and Addison Lane; clerk, William A. Jepson; treasurer, Thomas D. Lock- wood; collectors, J. Walter Newhall and Roy D. Stafford. The affiliated societies are the Social Circle, Baptist Young People's Union, Junior Baptist Young People's Union and the Woman's Missionary Society. The Sunday School was organ- ized forty-six years ago, in 1856. Its list' of superintendents follows: Caleb Howard, 1856. Rev. James J. Peck, 1869. Guy Lamkin, 1856-62. Moses Briggs, 1870-73. F. W. A. Rankin, Jr., 1862-64. George M. M'Coy, 1873-78. S. M. Tourtellot, 1864-66. Charles C. Barrv^ 1878-99; William F.Paul, 1867. ( twentv-one years.) William N. Tyler, 1868. Carl B. Smith, 1899. The present membership of the School is 480. In the near future this Church intends building a new church building, and it now has a fund on hand for that purpose amountm'.r to $10,000. "^ The p-ELLS Baptist Church. Soon after the Boston Rub- ber Shoe Company's works were established, at the Fells 164 HISTORY OF MELROSE. Village, in 1882, where there then existed quite a population, members of the First Baptist Church began mission work in that district. A Sunday School was organized, and weekly religious services were held in a hall at the corner of Main Street and Goodyear Avenue, the propert}' of the Boston Rubber Shoe Compan\', and which was built soon after the works were established, and has always been placed at the disposal of this religious movement, free of all charge. In this hall, also, the Converse School was kept, before the building of the Fells District school-house — the Converse School — ■ on Washington Street. The Fells Baptist Church was organized Januuary 25, 1889, with twenty-six members. The first pastor was Rev. William W. Hackett, who had officiated at the religious services for some time previous to the organization of the Church, and was installed February i, 1889. He resigned November 30, 1890, and was succeeded February i, 1891, by Re\'. C. D. Swett, vyho remained until August 31, 1893. R*^^- George A. Cleve- land was the pastor from November 5, 1893, until April 30, 1894; Rev. Wesley L. Smith, May i, 1894, to May 31, 1897; and June i, 1897, Rev. Mr. Hackett again became the pastor, and remained until April 30, 1900, when he was succeeded by Re\-. D. C. Easton, who was installed June 2, following. He remained until May, 190 1, and was succeeded by Rev. L. A. Cooney, who was installed October 6, 1901. The present membership of the Church numbers 83; and that of the Sunday School, which was formed soon after the Rubber Works were built, now numbers forty, with Norman B. Brown, as superin- tendent. The officers of the Church are: deacons, Norman B. Brown, Edwin White and Edwin B. Marshall; church clerk, Walter W. Wortman; treasurer, Lewis S. Munroe. The Melrose Highlands Baptist Church. For a num- ber of years, the Melrose Highlands has been increasing rapidly in population; and in the fall of 1893, i^ ^^"^^s found that cjuite a number of members of Baptist Churches were liv- ing there. A series of prayer-meetings were first held at the different residences, and soon a society was formed, and regu- lar services held in Rogers' Hall, on Franklin Street. The first sermon was preached October 22, b}' Rev. George A. Cleveland, of the First Baptist Church. Different pastors supplied the pulpit until March. 1894, when Re\'. Bowley ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY. 105 Green was invited to become their pastor, and the Church was organized April 12, with thirteen members. Mr. Green was ordained November 21, 1894, but in the following April ten- dered his resignation, and accepted a call to the Worthen Street Baptist Church, Lowell. After two months a call was extended to Rev. Byron U. Hatfield of Georgetown, which was accepted; and he was installed August 2, 1895. During his pastorate the church edifice, on the corner of Day and Franklin Streets, was built and dedicated December 29, of that same year. It cost $9,000. In Januar\-, 1896, Mr. Hat- MKLROSE HIGHLANDS BAPTIST CHURCH. field resigned, and in March a call was extended to Rev. C. E. Tullar, of Watertown. who accepted. He continued his work until April, 1898, when he resigned. The present pastor, Re\-. David M. Lockrow, was installed November 3, 1898. The membership of the Church now numbers seventy-five; of the Sunday School 183, and Abner M.Saunders is its superintend- ent. The young people's society connected with the Church, is called the Baptist Young People's Union. Several memorial windows were placed in this church when it was built. Through the efforts of D. Evans Caswell, of the "Humanitarian Chaj)el," situated nc-arl\- ojjposite the church, 166 HISTORY OF MELROSE. on Franklin Street, a handsome American Flag Window, orna- ments its eastern or chancel end. This is in memory of those soldiers who gave their lives for their country.'' A Grand Patriotic Concert was given in the hall of the Highland Club House, Wednesday evening, December 4, 1895, by which the necessary funds were raised, not only for this window, but for two others; one called the Queen Esther Window, in honor of the mothers, wives and daughters who gave their sons, hus- bands and brothers to their country; the other a Peace Window, placed in the vestibule, in honor of the sons and daughters of veterans of the service. Still another handsome window, containing a representation of Ruth, was presented by Dexter Pratt, as a memorial of his daughter, who died a few years ago. Present officers: treasurer, John N. Underwood; clerk, Mrs. S. A. Pierce; collector, C. M. Huxford; deacons, Henry A. Jones, John A. McLean, Abner M. Saunders and Edwin T. Cone. The First Free Baptist Church. During the year i893> when there was but one church building in the Melrose High- lands, "a few earnest Christian people decided, after much prayer, to undertake a new work for God, and in the interest of the many unchurched and unsaved in the town." For nearly a year services were held in the old school-house on Franklin Street, as a mission. On January i, 1894, Rev. George N. Howard became pastor, but the Church was not fully organized until P'ebruary 5, of that year, when it was duly incorporated with thirt}'-five charter members. Not long after this steps were taken toward the building of a church edifice. Land was purchased on the corner of Green and Farwell Streets, and the corner-stone of a building, of which Mr. Howard was the architect, was laid October 16, 1894, with appropriate ceremonies. Its plan is a unique one ^ Until the preseut year, 1902, Rebellion 0/1861-65. Ou August 2, Melrose had neither soldiers' mon- 1902, a soldiers' monument which ument, tablet, or memorial hall. had been erected on the soldiers' The only recognition the services lot in Wyoming Cemetery was of the " Boys in Blue," other than dedicated. Further details are this memorial window, had received given in the chapter, "Military Or- was the volume published in 1868, ganizations," and in the account of entitled: The Melrose Memorial: " Old Home Week." The Annals of Melrose in the Great ECCLESIA S TIC A L HIS TOR Y. 167 On the same floor with the auch'torium, which with the two galleries accommodates an audience of over four hundred, is a lecture room seating- one hundred persons, a fully etjuipped kindergarten room and a parlor. The building was sufiticienth' adwanced to allow of its occu- pancN^ b\- the parish April 7, 1895. During a portion of the previous time, from December to Aprd, services were held in Eastman's Hall, on Main Street. The edifice was not wholly completed until January 8, 1899, ^^ which time dedication ex- ercises took place, with an historical address by the pastor, MHLKOSK HIGHLANDS FIRST FREE B.\PTIST CHURCH. Rev. George N. Howard; a sermon by Rev. A. W. Anthony. of Lewiston, Maine, and other addresses. Rev. Mr. Howard resigned February 14, 1902. The present officers are: Levi \V. Gilman, deacon; George C. Mower, clerk; Levi W. Gilman, treasurer. The church contains several handsome memorial wintlows: One, "The Baptism of Christ, by John in the Jordan," in memory of Charles Dana and George Henry Lincoln; another, "The Sower," m memor\- of the fathers of Mr. and Mrs. Le\i VV. Gilman. In the gallerx', one from "The Stammerer's Friend;" and back of the altar, "Christ in Gethsemane. ' 168 HISTORY OF MELROSE. The total cost of land and edifice was $20,000. The Church has now a membership of one hundred and twenty-five. The Sunday School has one hundred members and the superin- tendent is John T. Hill. It has a library of four hundred vol- umes. The affiliated societies are The Young Men's League, Ladies' Aid Society, Faithful Workers, A. C. F. Society Senior, and the A. C. F. Society Junior. The First Universalist Church. The first preaching of the doctrine of Universalism on the territory now Melrose, was introduced in the manner described by the late Artemas Barrett, in an article written for the Melrose yoiirnal, as follows: At the