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PREFACE.

The author is well apprised that any new publication, at this time,
muet either possess a high degree of literary merit, or treat of events
in which all feel a lively interest, to recommend it to the favorable con-
sideration of the reading public. For the success of this work he relies
chiefly on the latter circumstance.

Mexico has recently been the theatre of many thrilling events. The
presses of the country are teeming with books, written on Mexico, the
Mexican war, and Mexican manners and customs. Descriptions of camps,
marches, battles, capitulations, and victories, have almost sated the public
mind. But these have all, or nearly all, had reference to the central or
southern wings of our army. Little has been said, or written, in regard
to the "Army of the West." The object of the following pages is to-
supply this deficiency, and to do justice to the men, whose courage and
conduct have accomplished the most wonderful military achievement of
modern times. For, what can be more wonderful than the march, of a
single regiment of undisciplined troops, through five populous States of
the Mexican Republic- — almost annihilating a powerful army — and finally
returning home, after a march of near six thousand miles, graced with
the trophies of victory ?

To the kindness and courtesy of Cols. Doniphan and Price, Lieutenant-
colonel Jackson and Major Gilpin, Captains Waldo and Reid, Montgomery,
Leintz, and Dudley H. Cooper, the author is indebted for much valuable
information. He also desires to express the obligations under which he
feels himself, to the late lamented Captain Johnston, aid-de-camp to Gen.
Kearney, whose Notes were recently published, and to the Hon. Willard
P. Hall, of Missouri, for an account of the march of Lieutenant-colonel
Cooke to California, and of the subsequent operations of General Kear-
ney in that country.

His acknowledgments are also due to his valued and esteemed friend,
L. A. Maclean, of the Missouri Horse Guards, who generously and gratui-
tously furnished most of th^designs which embellish this work. These
sketches were engt-aveckby .H.'.C. Grosvenor, of Cincinnati.

- J ( 5 )

vi PREFACE.

Except for the long-established custom of prefacing books, the reader
would scarcely demand of the author an explanation of his motives, in
attempting to publish to the world a full and faithful account of the West-
ern Expedition : embracing the Conquest of New Mexico; the Treaty with
the Navajo Indians ; General Kearney's overland march to California ;
Colonel Doniphan's invasion and capture of Chihuahua ; his triumphant
march through the States of Durango and Coahuila ; his junction with
Generals Wool and Taylor ; his return to New Orleans, by way of the
Mexican Gulf, and his subsequent cordial reception, by the citizens of St.
Louis, and Missouri generally ; — together with the brilliant achievements
of the army under Colonel Price, at Santa Fe. These are subjects of
great historical interest to every American citizen.

The author was an eye-witness of, and an actor in, many of the scenes
which he essays to describe ; having been present at the capture of Santa
Fe, and in the battles of Brazito, Sacramento, and El Poso. The narrative
has been prepared with a conscientious regard for truth — the beauty of all
history. He, therefore, trusts that his labors may meet with a favorable
reception, by an enlightened and generous public.

THE AUTHOR.

Liberty, Missouri, September 25, 1847.

CONTENTS.

Memoir of Col. A. W. Doniphan

Page.

. 9

CHAPTER I .

Origin of the War with Mexico — Hostilities be-
gun— Act of Congress to raise troops — Plan
of invasion — Causes which justify the war —
Army of the west — Gov. Edwards' requisition
— Troops rendezvous at Fort Leavenworth —
Drill exercises — Election of field officers —
Strength of the expedition — Ladies visit the
fort — Presentation of flags — Two squadrons
dispatched in pursuitof "ipeyres and Armijo —
Departure of the expedition — March conducted
bv detachments — Scene at the Stranger — The
Kansas — Shawnees — Bewilderment — Bluff
hill — Santa Fe trail — Fiery steeds — Descrip-
tion of troops composing the army of the west 13

CHAPTER II.

View of the Army on the Prairies — Singular
phenomenon — Attention to horses — Fourth
of Julv — Council Grove — Its locale — Diamond

>pno

js — Government trains; — Interesting in-

quiry— Prairie fuel — Musquitoes and the black
gnat — Express from Col. Doniphan — Alterca-
tion between officers — Chavez — His tragical
end— The mirage— Sand-hills — The Big Ar-
kansas— Buffalo — Pawnee Rock — Forces re-
united at the Pawnee River — Difficult passage
—The Infantry — Maj. Howard— Charge upon
the Buff-do — Reptiles and insects — Flowers —
Prairie dog villages— Dealt) of Lesley — At-
tachment of men to th^ir horses — Appearance
of the Army — Fitzpatrick, the mountaineer —
The report — Mexican spies taken — Army en-
camped in the Mexican territory 16

CHAPTER III.

The Estampeda — Fort Bent — Lieut. De Courcy
— Arapaho Chief — March resumed — The ar-
my passes the Desert — An adventure — Span-
ish peaks — Half Rations — Return of De Cour-
cy— Doniphan's speech — Arrival of Las Ba-
gas — Priest of San Miguel — Mexican Prison-
ers— The Pecos Ruins — Traditions and Le-
genls — Anticipated Battle of the Canon —
Capture of Santa Fe — Gen. Kearney's speech
— Camp rumors, &c 24

CHAPTER IV.

Grazing Detachment — American Residents at
Santa Fe — Herkins--Gen. Kearney's Procla-
mation— New Mexico — Santa Ft— New Mex-
ican Women — The Fandango — Lieut. Old-
ham— Deserters — The Express — A Pueblo
Chief— Stamp Paper 35

CHAPTER V.

Excursion to San Tome — Supposed Rebellion — ■
Departure for Alburquerqur — Arrival at Del
Gardo — Gen. Kearney and Ca| t Rtii! — Rights
of Volunteers — Error common to regular offi-
cers— Sham battle — The Rio del Norte — Ir-
rigating canals — Algodones — Bernalillo — Al-
burquerque — Peralta — Reception of the troops
at San Tome — Lieut. (Jul. Ruff — Grand cele-
bration— Return to the capital ...... 41

CHAPTER VI.

Territorial Laws — Mexican Printing Press— -^ —
Appointments toofruv — Disease — Fort Marcy
— Battle of Los Llanos — The Election — De-
tachments ordered to Abiquiu and Cebolleta
— Gilpin's Return — Gol. Doniphan and Hall
— Gen. Kearney and the Apache Chief — Gen.
Kearney's departure for California — Conduct
of the Soldiers ............ 48

' CHAPTER VII.

Reinforcements — Organization of the Force — ■
The inarch begun — Mormon Battalion- -Death
of Capt. Allen — Another Estampeda — Col.
Price's arrival at Santa Fe — Col. Daugherty's
regiment — Disposition of the forces in New
Mexico — Express from California — Prepara-
tions for the Chihuahua Expedition ....

.

CHAPTER VIII.

Doniphan ordered against the Navajos — Plan of
the March — Condition of the Troops — They
take with them neither Bagaage, Provision
Wagons, nor Tents-— Arrival at Alburquerque
— A Squadron sent to Valverde — Death of
Adjutant Butler — War Dance at Isleta — Ex-
press from the Merchants — Valverde ....

56

CHAPTER IX.

Col. Jackson's detachment — Don Ch-ivez — An-
other War Dance — Cebolleta — Jackson's Mis-
sion— Capt. Reid's Expedition--Navnjodance
— Narbona — Capt. Reid's Letter — Return of
the Partv — Habits of the Navajos — Their
Wealth— Horses stolen by the Navajos — Their
recovery 61

CHAPTER X .

Major Gilpin and the Yutas — His march against
the Navajos — His passage over the Cordilleras
— Express to Col. Doniphan — The San Juan
— Passage over the Tunicha mountains — Deep
Snow? — Major Gilpin departs for the OjoOso
— Col. Doniphan passes the Sierra Madre— -

(vii)

VUl

CONTENTS.

rage

Iromcnw Snow Storm — Arrival at the Bear
Spring — Doniphan's Speech to the Navajos —
Their Chiefs reply — Treaty concluded ... 67

CHAPTER XI.

Return of the Troops to the Del Norte — Doni-
phan visits Zuni — Treaty between the Zunis
and the Navajos — Description of Zuni and
the Zunians — The Moquis — Ancient ruins —
Remarks on the Navajo campaign — The Na-
vajos— Their state and condition 72

CHAPTER XII.

Gen. Kearney's march to California — Passes the
Del Norte at Alburqurrque — Arrival at Soc-
corro — The Alcalde — Kit Carson — The Ex-
press— Capt. Burgwin sent back — Lieut. In-

galls — Apaches — The Copper mines Red

Sleeve — Sierra del Buso — Difficulties — The
Gilans — Lieut. Davidson— Hall of Montezu-
ma— The Pimo villages ......... 76

CHAPTER XIII.

Barrebutt — Fable of the Pimos — Arrival at the
Colorado — Mexican papers intercepted — The
Jornada of ninety miles — Horse-flesh — The
Mulada — Capt. Gillespie — Battle of San Pas-
cual — Gen. Kearney's official report .... 83

CHAPTER XIV.

Col. Stevenson — Com. Sloat and Lieut. Col. Fre-
mont— Gen. Castro— Com. Stockton — The
Revolution in California — Mr. Talbot — The
insurgents under Flores and Pico — Gen. Kear-
ney marches upon Angeles — Battles of San
Gabriel and the Mesa — Capital recovered—
The Capitulation ........... 86

CHAPTER XV.
Gen. Kearney and W. P. Hall — Lieutenant-col-
onel Cooke — The Mormon Battalion — Lieut.
Abert — San Bernadino destroyed by Apaches
—The glazed plain — Arrival in Teuson — The
honest Pimo chief — Arrival at San Diego —
Com. Shubrick — Gen. Kearney proceeds to
Monterey — Governor Fremont — -Gen. Kear-
ney and Governor Fremont — California — Its
present state — Gen. Kearney's return to the
United States ......'. 90

CHAPTER XVI.

Concentration of the forces at Valverde — Mitch-
ell's Escort — Passage of the great " Jornada
del Muerto " — Arrival at Donanna — Frank
Smith and the Mexicans — Battle of Brazito —
The Piratical Flap; — Doniphan's order — Bu-
rial of the Dead — False Alarm — Surrender of
EJ Paso— Release of American Prisoners . . 94

CHAPTER XVII.

The Commissioners — Assessment of property —
Search for arms — Proclamation of Gov. Trias
— The American merchants — Strength of the
Pass— Capt. Kirker — Kind treatment of the

{tag*

Pasenos — Resources of the valley of EI Paso
— Wolves — The Rebellion — Rainond Ortiz —
The Apache Indians .......... 100

CHAPTER XVIII.

Departure from El Paso — Doniphan's position —
Rainond Ortiz — Two Deserters — Battalion of
Merchants — Passage of the Desert — The Ojo
Caliente — Marksmanship — Lake of Encenil-
las — Dreadful Conflagration — Capt. Reid's ad-
venture— The Reconnoissance — Plan of the
March — Battle of Sacramento — Surrender of
Chihuahua 106

CHAPTER XIX.

Doniphan's proclamation — The American resi-
dents— The keys to the Mint — Mexican mor-
als— Chihuahua — Its attractions — Express to
Gen. Wool — The fourteen — Arrival at Saltillo
— Visit to the battle-field of Buena Vista —
Return of the Express . 118

CHAPTER XX.

D» ^rture of the army for Saltillo — Mexican girls
— The Merchants — Arrival at Santa Rosalia
— Mitchell's Advance ■ — Gunjuquilla — The
Jornada — Palayo and Mapimi — Death of
Lieut. Jackson — San Sebastian and San Lo-
renzo— Mrs. McGoffin — Battle of El Poso —
Don Manuel Ybarro — Parras — Review of the
Army by Gen. Wool — Reception by Gen.
Taylor ... . 12$

C HAPTER XXI.

Departure for New Orleans — Execution of a
Guerrilla Chief — Mier and Camargo— Death
of Sergeant Swain — Arrival at Reynosa — Wa-
ter Transportation — The Mouth — Brazos San-
tiago— The Troops sail for New Orleans —
The Balize — Chivalry of the South — Recep-
tion in the Crescent City ........ 134

CHAPTER XXII.

Discharge of the Troops — Their return to Mis-
souri— Reception at St. Louis — Banquets and
Honors — Doniphan crowned with a Laciiei;
Wueath — Conclusion ...... . . . 136

CHAPTER XXIII.

Col. Price — Disposition of the troops — The Con-
spiracy— Conspiracy detected— Second Con-
spiracy— Massacre of Gov. Bent and retinue
— Battles of Canada, Embndo, Pueblo tie
Taos, and the Mora — Death of Capts. Burg-
win and Hendley — Restoration of tranquil-
lity .... 188

CHAPTER XXIV.

Increased vigilance of the troops — Suspicion —
Battle of the Red river canon — Murder of
Lieut. Brown — Battle of Las Bagas — Sir
prisoners executed — Attack on the Cienega—

Indian outrages — Robberies — Lieut. Love

Capt. Mann — The new levies 142

MEMOIR

OF

COL. A. W. DONIPHAN.

Alexander William Doniphan, whose
history is so thoroughly identified with that
of Missouri, and who lias acted so conspicu-
ous a part in the recent war with Mexico, as the
leader of the unexampled Expedition against
Chihuahua, was born, of respectable parent-
age, on the 9th of July, 1808, in Mason county,
Kentucky. He first breathed the air of that
chivalrous State. There his tender years were
spent, and his youthful mind received its first
impressions. Amidst Kentucky's wild, ro-
mantic mountain scenery, his young faculties
were first begun to be developed, unfolded,
expanded. Here, also, from maternal lips, —
the lips of a kind, patient, persevering, and
intelligent mother, »hn fi najMearned sentiments
of honor, honesty, and patriotism. His mind,
from the very earliest age, was fired with an
admiration of the ancient orators and sages.
He no less admired the patriots of the revolu-
tion ; ever regarding them as bright examples,
and worthy of imitation. Possessed of a bril-
liant mind, he formed his life from the best
models. Such is the influence which an affec-
tionate and intelligent mother is capable of
exerting over the destiny of her offspring.

His father, Joseph Doniphan, emigrated
from Virginia to Kentucky amongst the ear-
liest pioneers, having accompanied Daniel
Boone, the great Adventurer, towards the far
distant west, on one of his early visits to the
*' Dark and bloody Ground, " then covered by
unbroken forests and impervious canebrakes.
Pleased with the country, he returned to Vir-
ginia, married, removed, and settled in Mason
county. Here he established his fortunes;
and, for many years, enjoyed uninterrupted
peace and prosperity, except occasional dis-
turbance with the Indians. At length, being
seized by an indisposition, he died, devolving
thereby the care of providing and educating
his children upon his widow. The responsible
duty wa3 faithfully and cheerfully discharged.
Alexander's father dying when he was only
six years of age, left him in charge of his
mothei. He was the object of her first and
most especial regard. His education was, to

her, a matter of the highest importance. Al-
exander being the youngest child, his mother
discontinued the management of her farm,
when he had attained an age to be sent to
a better school than the vicinity in which they
lived then afforded ; having herself gone to
live with a married daughter. Having attained
his ninth year, he was placed under the guar-
dianship of his elder brother, George Doni-
phan, of Augusta, Kentucky; to whose care
and kind attention, Col. Doniphan acknowl-
edges himself indebted for all his attainments',
and whatever distinction he may haveacquired
in the world. The elder brother, therefore,
enjoys the enviable satisfaction of knowing
his efforts contributed to rear and give destiny
to one of the great minds of the age. In-
deed, Colonel Doniphan's name and fame are
familiar to every American citizen. Not only
so, — the world regards him with admiration,
and justly ; for he lowers amongst men as the
stately oak amongst his compeers of the forest.
Five years after Alexander was removed to
Augusta, the Conferences of Ohio and Ken-
tucky determined to locate a college, at some
point on the Ohio river convenient to the citi-
zens of each State, to be under the control of
the Methodist Episcopal Church. It was
located at Augusta. At this institution Alex-
ander graduated, with high honors, in 1827,
in the 19th year of his age. He then read
history, with great advantage, for six months,
and in the spring of 1828 commenced the
study of the law, under the supervision of
that learned, profound, and able lawyer, Mar-
tin Marshall, of Augusta. He obtained a
license to practise as an attorney, before the
courts, in the fall of 1829 ; and, having spent
the winter of that year in traveling over the
south-western and western States, determined
to locate himself at Lexington, Missouri. —
Here he remained, and enjoyed a lucrative
practice for three years, during which he ob-
tained considerable celebrity as an able and
eloquent lawyer, and established his reputation
as an intelligent and useful citizen. In 1833
he removed to Liberty, in Upper Missouri,

10

MEMOIR OF COL. A. VV. DONIPHAN.

more from its healthful situation and its salu-
brity, than from any other cause. He still
resides in this romantic and pleasant village.*

From this period of his history, his success
at the bar has been almost unexampled, in
Missouri. Immediately upon his locating in
Liberty, a heavy business flowed into his
hands. The fame which he had previously
acquired, as an able advocate and a sound
lawyer, gave him advantages that but few can
enjoy. Never did Pericles gain a more com-
plete ascendant-, over the minds of the Athe-
nians, than Col. Doniphan, by his courteous
conduct as a citizen, his capacity as a lawyer,
his talent as a legislator, and his powers as
an orator, has attained over the people of Up-
per Missouri. Although a majority of the
people of Missouri are politically opposed to
liim, no one man enjoys more of their confi-
dence and esteem, as a patriot and a citizen.

About this period of his life, he was united
in marriage to the amiable and intelligent
daughter of Colonel John Thornton, of Clay
county, lie has two little cherub boys, whose
correct training, and proper education, appear
to be matter of the highest concern and of
first-rate importance with him. Therefore,
instead of grasping after political preferment,
for the purpose of satisfying a selfish and sor-
did ambition, we see him endeavoring to
accomplish the noblest of earthly objects — the
proper training and instruction. of hi* children.
To this end he is often seen in the district
schools, as well as the high school of the
town, encouraging by his presence, the young
developing minds, and pointing them to the
high rewards of industry and perseverance.
The hero of Sacramento is now a trustee of
the school in his own village!

He has lori'i and honorably held the office
of Brigadier-general, in the militia of Missouri.
In IR3.S, Gov. Boggs ordered a strong mili-
tary force to proceed to Far West, the head-
quarters of the Mormon sect, and quell the
disturbances and insurrectionary movements
which had been excited by their Great Prophet,
Jo Smith. This fanaticism and insubordina-
tion, threatened to embroil the whole country.
In a short time, troops were in motion from
all parts of the State. Military preparations

* When any one inquires of Col. Doniphan, why he
does not choose to live in a more considerable town than
Liberty, he g'ves them Plutarch's reply: -If I should
remove hence, the place would be of still less note than
it now is."

Like Rpaminondas. the great Bceotnn, Col. Doniphan
lia« mostly lived in a house neither splendidly furnished,
nor pa' Hied, r.or white-washed, but plain as the rest of
his neighbors.

Wlrle commanding the army. Colonel Doniphan rarely
wore any military dress; so he could not be distin-
guished, by a s:ranger. from one of the men whom he
commanded. He fared as the soldiers, anil often pre
pared his own m»als. Any private man in his camp
mghl approach h'm with the greatest freedom, and con-
verse on whatever topics it pleased him : for he was
always rejo'eed to ga'n Information from any one. though
a common soldier. Who-ver had bus nes's, might ap-
proach lis tent and wake him. when asleep: for he nei-
ther had a body-guard, nor persons to transact his busi-
ness for him

were being actively pushed forward by the.
Prophet, to meet the emergency. A sanguin-
ary slaughter was expected to ensue. Gen.
Doniphan, with his brigade (belonging to the
division of Major-general Lucas,) rendered
important service in overawing the insurgent
forces, and quelling the disturbances without
bloodshed. This was General Doniphan's
first campaign.

In all the relations qf social and private life,
where a man's true character is best known,
and where, lamentable to tell ! most of our
ostensibly great men are most sadly deficient,
Col. Doniphan's conduct is most exemplary.
Here his virtues shine brightest. As a hus-
band, he is affectionate; as a father, he rules
his household with reason and decision. A
just and wise economy marks the administra-
tion of his family affairs. As a neighbor, he
is sociable and pleasant; as a citizen, benev-
olent and extensively useful. In all his deal-
ings with mankind, he is just and honorable.
He is interesting and fluent in conversation.
His manner and whole deportment are pre-
possessing; and one rarely makes his ac-
quaintance, without forming a lasting attach-
ment for him. As an orator, he possesses
great and shining powers. His address is of
the most agreeable nature; his air command-
ing; his language full and flowii.g; his ges-
tures graceful ; his enunciation distinct; his
voice shrill and sonorous; his arguments con-
vincing; his mind comprehensive and clear ;
his figures and illustrations happy and natural :
his fancy not only brilliant, but dazzlingly
vivid; — finally, when excited, the tide of his
eloquence is almost irresistible. He is the
very fullness of physical and intellectual
vigor, and possesses, in an eminent degree,
the original elements of greatness. His best
speeches have always been delivered extem-
poraneously— much of the fire and pathos
being lost, in the attempt to commit them to
paper. He is not a member of any church,
society, or fraternity; but, in his views, is
tolerant of all, and is the devoted friend of
universal, education. In stature, Col. Don-
iphan is upwards of six feet tall, well propor-
tioned, altogether dignified in his appearance,
and gentlemanly in his manners. His fea-
tures are bold, his bright hazel eye dazzlingly
keen and expressive, and his massive forehead
is of the finest and most classic mould.

Unambitious of political advancement, he
has never sought that unsubstantial, popular
applause, which sometimes elevates men to
stations far above their abilities and merits,
and as often consigns them to useless obscu-
rity, ever regarding fame as valuable and
lasting only when based on virtue and sub-
stantial worth. For many years, having
assiduously devoted his time and talent to
his profession as a lawyer, he has acquired
not only an enviable distinction amongst men,
hut has raised himself to ease and affluence.
He commenced the world without fortune, and

MEMOIR OF COL. A. W. DONIPHAN.

II

without the aid of powerful friends, to relieve
hitn from those embarrassments which every
man is destined to encounter who relies upon
his own energy for success. But, by dint of
perseveranee^and a clear and well balanced
judgment, he has arrived at both fame and
i'ortu ne.

Never having- been desirous of engaging
permanently in political life, he has constantly
refused to become a candidate for office, ex-
cept on two occasions, notwithstanding he
considers the public service to be the most
honorable and exalted, and worthy to com-
mand the very best talent the country can
afford. In 1836 he represented his county by
an almost unanimous vote, although there was
then a small majority in the county politically
opposed to him. His success, in this election,
was owing to his personal popularity and his
great weight of character. In 1840, during
that exciting political contest between Gen.
Harrison and Mr. Van Buren, his political
friends, in view of his great abilities as a
stump-orator, almost forced him to take the
field as a candidate once more — it being looked
to as a test-race to decide the political com-
plexion of the county, lie was again elected
by a large majority. While in the Legisla-
ture he distinguished himself for his boldness,
independence, liberality of sentiment, and fa Un-
fitness as a representative. From this period
he has pertinaciously refused to become acan-
didate. for any office whatever, frequently de-
claring, in his public addresses, that he nei-
ther expects nor desires ever to be a candidate
again.* He has made these declarations, not
that he feels a contempt for the public service

* \i\ Irs speech al Independence, on the 29th of July,
1^47. h-2 declared h : had not lieen a candidate lor office
<bi "Sbvkn vkaks. " and d.d not expect to be for the next
* ssvE.vrv-sEVEN, •' to come.

(for no one better comprehends the value of
liberty, or regards the prosperity of the coun-
try with more interest than Col. Doniphan,)
but through a modest willingness to see the
high functions of the government discharged
by others, who have made these things the
study of their whole lives.

In 1846, when hostilities were declared to
exist between the United States and Mexico,
and the Executive proposed to send an inva-
ding army across the plains to the province
of New Mexico, Gen. Doniphan actively
interested himself in raising the requisite
number of men to accompany the expedition.
This expedition was to be under command of
Colonel Kearney. To hasten the preparations
for the departure of the expedition, General
Doniphan visited many of the counties in Up-
per Missouri, harangued the people, and, in a
very short space of time, the complement of
men was raised. They assembled at Fort
Leavenworth, and were there mustered into
service. General Doniphan had volunteered
as a private, in the company from his own
county, commanded by his brother-in-law,
Captain 0. P. Moss. On the 18th of June,
1846, he was elected Colonel of the 1st Re-
giment of Missouri Cavalry, over his oppo-
nent, General J. W. Price, by a respectable
majority. No fitter man could have been
chosen ; for his sagacity planned, his judgment
conducted, and his energy, together with that
of his officers and men, accomplished the
most wonderful campaign of any age or coun-
try. This was done without an outfit, without
money, and almost without ammunition, by
the citizen-commander of citizen-soldiers. —
The history of this expedition will be Colonel
Doniphan's most lasting monument. — His
deeds will ever live to praise him.

DONIPHAN'S EXPEDITION.

CHAPTER I.

Osigix of the War with Mexico — Hostilities be-
gun— Act of Congress to raise troops — Plan of
invasion — Causes which justify the war — Army
of the west — Gov. Edwards' requisition — Troops
rendezvous at Fort Leavenworth — Drill exercises
— Election of field officers — Strength of the ex-
pedition— Ladies visit the fort — Presentation of
flags — Two squadrons dispatched in pursuit of
Seyres and Armijo — Departure of the expedi-
tion— March conducted hy detachments — Scene
at the Stranger — The Kansas — Shawnees — Be-
wilderment— Bluff hill — Sanla Fe trail — Fiery
Steeds — Description of troops composing the
Army of the West

The passage, by the American Con-
gress, of the Resolutions of Annexation, by
which the Rcpuhlic of Texas was incorpo-
rated into the Union as one of the States,
having merged her sovereignty into that of
our own government, was the prime cause
which led to the recent war with Mexico.
However, the more immediate cause of the
war may be traced to the occupation, by
the American Army, of the strip of dispu-
ted territory lying between the Nueces and
the Rio Grande. Bigoted and insulting
Mexico, always prompt to manifest her
hostility towards this government, sought
the earliest plausible pretext for declaring
war against the United States, /flu's dec-
laration of war by the Mexican Govern-
ment (which bore dale in April 1846), was
quickly and spiritedly followed by a mani-
festo from our Congress at Washington,
announcing that '-a state of war exists be-
tween Mexico and the United States." —
Soon after this counter declaration, the
Mexicans crossed the Rio Grande, in
strong force, headed by the famous gener-
als, Arista and Ampudia. This force as is
well known, was defeated at Palo Alto on
the 8th, and at Resaca de la Palma on the
9th of May, 1846, by the troops under
command of Major-general Taylor, and
repulsed with great slaughter. The whole

Union was soon in a state of intense ex-
citement. General Taylor's recent glori-
ous victories were the constant theme of
universal admiration. The war had actu-
ally begun, and that, too, in a manner
which demanded immediate and decisive
action. The United States' Congress
passed an act, about the middle of May,
1846, authorizing the President to call into
the field 50,000 volunteer troops, designed
to operate against Mexico at three distinct
points, namely: the southern wing or "Ar-
my of Occupation," commanded by Major-
general Taylor, to penetrate directly into
the heart of the country ; the column under
Brigadier-general Wool, or the "Army of
the Centre," to operate against the city of
Chihuahua; and the expedition under the
command of Colonel, now Brigadier-gen-
eral Kearney, known as the " Army of the
West," to direct its march upon the city
of Santa Fe. This was the original plan
of operation against Mexico. But subse-
quently the plan was changed; Maj. Gen.
Scott, with a well appointed army, was
sent to Vera Cruz ; Gen. Wool effected a
junction with Gen. Taylor at Saltillo, and
Gen. Kearney divided his force into three
separate commands; the first he led in per-
son to the distant shores of the Pacific ; a
detachment of near 1000 Missouri volun-
teers, under command of Col. A. W. Don-
iphan, was ordered to make a descent up-
on the State of Chihuahua, expecting to
join Gen. Wool's division at the Capital;
while the greater part was left as a garrison
at Santa Fe, under command of Col. Ster-
ling Price. The greatest eagerness was
manifested by the citizens of the United
States to engage in the war ; to redress
our wrongs ; to repel an insulting foe ; and
to vindicate our national honor, and die
honor of our oft-insulted flag. The call of
the President "was promptly responded
to ; but of the 50,000 volunteers at first

(13/

14

DONIPHAN'S EXPEDITION.

authorized to be raised, the services of on-
ly about 17,000 were required.

The cruel and inhuman butchery of Col.
Fannin and his men, all Americans ; the
subsequent and indiscriminate murder of
all Texans who unfortunately fell into
Mexican hands ; the repeated acts of cru-
elty and injustice perpetrated upon the
persons and property of American citizens
residing in the northern Mexican provin-
ces; the imprisonment of American mer-
chants without the semblance of a trial by
jury, and the forcible seizure and confisca-
tion of their goods; the robbing of Ameri-
can travelers and tourists in the Mexican
country of their passports and other means
of safety, whereby in certain instances they
weie deprived of their liberty ; the forci-
ble detention of American citizens, some-
times in prison and at other times in free
custody ; the recent blockade of the Mexi-
can ports against the United States' trade ;
the repeated insults offered our national
flag ; the contemptuous, ill-treatment of
our ministers, some of whom were spurn-
ed with their credentials ; the supercilious
and menacing air uniformly manifested
towards this government, which with char-
acteristic forbearance and courtes}-, has
endeavored to maintain a friendly under-
standing; her hasty and unprovoked dec-
laration of war against the United States ;
her army's unceremonious passage of the
Rio Grande in strong force and with hos-
tile intention ; her refusal to pay indem-
nities ; and a complication of less evils, all
of which have been perpetrated by the
Mexican authorities or by unauthorized
Mexican citizens, in a manner which clear-
ly evinced the determination on the part of
Mexico, to terminate the amicable relations
hitherto existing between the two coun-
tries : — are the causes which justify the
war. Are not these sufficient? Or should
we have forborne until the catalogue of of-
fences was still d3eperdyed with infamous
crimes, and until the blood of our brothers,
friends, and consanguinity, l.ke that of the
murdered Abe!, should cry to us from the
ground ? Who that has the spirit, the
feelings, and the pride of an American,
would willingly see his country submit to
such a complication of injury and insult ? —
In truth, the only cause of regret is, that
the war was not prosecuted with more
vigor, energy, and promptitude, from the
commencement. This, perhaps, would
have prevented the effusion of so much

blood, and the expenditure of so much
treasure.

It is the "Army of the West" that com-
mands our immediate attention. About the
middle of May, Gov. Edwards, of Mis-
souri, made a requisition on the State for
volunteers, to join the expedition to Santa
F^. This expedition was conducted by
Col. Stephen W. Kearney, of the 1st Dra-
goons U. S. Army, a very able and skillful
officer. The troops designed for this ser-
vice, were required to rendezvous at Fort
Leavenworth, situated on the right bank of
the Missouri river, twenty-two miles above
the mouth of the Kansas, which was the
place of out-fit and departure for the west-
ern army. The " Saint Louis Legion,"*
commanded by Col. Easton, had already
taken its departure for the Army of Occu-
pation. Corps of mounted volunteers
were speedily organized in various coun-
ties throughout the State in conformity to
the Governor's requisition, and company
officers elected. By the 5th of June, the
companies began to arrive at the Fort,
and were mustered into 'he service of the
United States, and lettered in the order
of their arrival. The process of mus-
tering the men into the United Slates' ser-
vice, and of valuing their horses, was en-
trusted to the late, lamented, Capt. Allen
of the 1st Dragoons. Gen. Kearney had
discretionary orders from the War Depart-
ment as to the number of men which
should compose his division, and what
proportion of them should be cavalry and
what infantry. Owing to the great dis-
tance across the plains, cavalry was deemed
the better description of troops, and accord-
ingly the whole western army, with the
exception of one separate battalion, consis-
ted of mounted men. For the space of
twenty days, during which time portions of
the volunteers remained at the fort, rigid
drill twice per day, once before and after
noon, was required to be performed by
them, — in order to render their services
the more efficient. These martial exer-
cises, upon a small prairie adjacent to the
fort, appropriately styled by the volunteers
"Campus Marlis, " consisting of the inarch
by sections of four, the sabre exercises, the
charge, the rallv, and other cavalry tactics,
doubtless proved subsequently to be of the
most essential service. It is due to tne
officers of the regular army, by whom the

* This corps was discharged at the expiration of
six months.

STRENGTH OF THE ARMY.

15

voluntpprs were principally carried through
the drill exercises, to state that their in-
structions were always communicated in
the kindest and most gentlemanly manner.

The election of field officers for the 1st
Regiment Missouri Mounted Volunteers,
was justly regarded as a matter of very
great imporianee; as in the event of Gen.
Kearney's death or disability, the Colonel
of that regiment would be entitled to the
command of the expedition. On the 18th
of June, the full complement of companies
having arrived, which were to compose the
1st Regiment, an election was holden, su-
perintended by General Ward, of Platte,
which resulted in the selection of Alexan-
der William Doniphan, a private in the
company from Clay county, an eminent
lawyer. — a man who had distinguished
himself as a Brigadier General in the cam-
paign of 1838, against the Mormons at Far
West, and who had honorably served his
countrymen as a legislator, — for Colonel of
the Regiment. C. F. Ruff was chosen
Lt. Colonel, and Win. Gilpin, Major. Lt.
Col. Ruff and Major Gilpin had both vol-
unteered as privates, the former in the
company from Clay, and the latter in that
from Jackson county.

The 1st Regiment of Missouri mounted
volunteers was composed of eight compa-
nies, A, B, C, D, E, F, G and H, respect-
ively from the counties of Jackson, La-
fayette, Clay, Saline, Franklin, Cole, How-
ard and Calaway, commanded by Capts.
Waldo, Walton, Moss, Reid, Stephenson,
Parsons, Jackson, and Rodgers, numbering
856 men. The battalion of light artillery
consisted of two companies from St. Louis
under Captains Weightman and Fischer,
numbering near 250 men, with Major
dark as its field officer. The battalion of
Infantry from the counties of Cole and
Platte, respectively commanded by Capts.
Angney and Murphy, the former being the
senior officer, numbered 145 men. The
Laclede Rangers from Sa:nt Louis, under
command of Capt. Hudson, 107 in num-
ber, attached to the 1st Dragoons, whose
strength was 300, — composed the entire
force of Colonel Kearney. Thus it will
appear that the advance of the Western
Army under the immediate command of
Colonel Kearney, consisted of 1,658 men,
and sixteen pieces of ordnance, 12 six-
pounders, and 4 twelve pound howitzers.

When llss column was on the eve of
departure for the different borders of New

Mexico, the people of upper Missouri col-
lected iii crowds at the fort to bid their
sens, brothers, and relatives, adieu, before
they launched upon the boundless plains
of the west. The ushering of an. army
upon the green bosom of the great prairies,
with pennons gaily streaming in the breeze,
is a sight no less interesting in its nature,
and there can he no less solicitude felt for
its safety, than is manifested at the depart-
ure of a fleet for some distant, land, when,
with spreading sails, the vessels launch
upon the restless, heaving deep. Before
the expedition set out, the patriotic ladies
from the adjacent counties, on several oc-
casions, came to the Fort, (on board the
steamboats which were then almost daily
arriving and departing,) to present their
countrymen with Flags, wrought by their
own hands, — at once the token of their
regard, and the Star-lighted emblem of
their country's liberty. On the presenta-
tion of these flags, the ladies usually deli-
vered addresses, which seemed to inspire
every heart with courage, and nerve every
arm for the dangers of the campaign. On
the 23d day of June, a large deputation of
ladies from Clay, arrived at the Fort, on
the Missouri Mail, with the finest flag,
perhaps, of which the expedition could
boast, and presented it to Captain O. P.
Moss, of their county, accompanied by the
following patriotic address, delivered by
Mrs. Cunningham:

"The ladies of Liberty and its vicinity
have deputed me, as one of their number,
to present this flag to the volunteers from
Clay county, commanded by Capt. Oliver
Perky Moss, and I now, in their name,
present it to you, as a token of their es-
teem for the manly and patriotic manner in
which you have shown your willingness lo
sustain the honor of our common country,
and to redress the indignities offered to lis
flag."

"In presenting to you this token of our
reo-ard and esteem, we wish you lo remem-
ber that some of us have sons, some bro-
thers, and all of us either friends or rela-
tives among you, and that we would rather
hear of your failing in honorable warfare,
than to see you return sullied with crime,
or disgraced by cowardice. We trust,
then, that your conduct, in all circumstan-
ces, will be worthy the noble, intelligent
and patriotic nation whose cause you have
so generously volunteered to defend; your
deportment will be such as will secure u>

1G

DONIPHAN'S EXPEDITION.

you the highest praise and the warmest
gratitude of the American people; — in a
word — let your motto be : 4 Death before
dishonor. ' And to the gracious protec-
tion of Him who rules the destinies of
nations, we fervently commend you. "

The captain modestly received the flag,
in a brief and pathetic response. Its mot-
to was, The love of country, is the
love of God.

The above specimen is given as illustra-
tive of the enthusiastic and uncalculaling
spirit of the western people, when the
country calls them to vindicate her national
honor. Without counting the cost, either
of treasure or blood, they fly to arms, im-
pelled by patriotism, and act upon the
principle " we are for our country, right
or wrong. "

About this time, Captains Waldo and
Reid, of the volunteers, and Capts. Moore
and Burgwin, of the 1st dragoons U. S.
Army, were dispatched by Col. Kearney,
with their respective companies, upon the
route to Santa Fi, with orders to pursue
with all possible vigor, and capture the
trains of Messrs. Speyers and Armijo, of
the trading caravan, who were far in ad-
vance of the other merchants, and who, it
was understood, were furnished with Bri-
tish and Mexican passports, and were
endeavoring to supply the enemy with
munitions of war. The pursuit was vain,
however, as the sequel will develop.

The organization of the expedition was
completed by the appointment to office of
the following gentlemen, viz: Capt. Riche
to be sutler to the dragoons; C. A. Perry
to be sutler, G. M. Butler, adjutant, Dr.
Geo. Penn principal surgeon, and T. M.
Morton and J. Vaughan, assistant surgeons,
of the 1st Regiment.

About one hundred wagons, loaded with
provisions for the army, having already
been sent forward upon the road, and
other means of transportation being fur-
nished for whatever was thought necessary
upon the expedition, by McKissack, quar-
termaster, on the 26th day of June, 1846,
the main body of the western army com-
menced its march over the great Prairies
or Plains, which extend from the western
border of Missouri to the confines of New
Mexico, a distance of near one thousand
miles. The annual caravan or merchant
train, of 414 wagons, heavily laden with
dry goods for the markets of Santa Fe and
Chihuahua, lined the road for miles. In-

dependence was the point of departure foi
this army of merchants. Col. Kearney
and the rear, consisting partly of volunteers
and partly of the first dragoons, soon fol-
lowed, having left the fort on the 29th of
the same month.

The march of the "Army of the
West," as it entered upon the great prai-
ries, presented a scene of the most intense
and thrilling interest. Such a scene was
indeed worthy the pencil of the ablest
artist, or the most graphic pen of the his-
torian. The boundless plains, lying in
wavy green not unlike the ocean, seemed
to unite with the heavens in the distant
horizon. As far as vision could penetrate,
the long files of cavalry, the gay fluttering
of banners, and the canvass-covered wag-
ons of the merchant train glistening like
banks of snow in the distance, might be
seen winding their tortuous way over the
undulating surface of the prairies. In thus
witnessing the march of an army over the
regions of uncultivated nature, which had
been the pasture of the buffalo and the
hunting ground of the wily savage, and
where the eagle and the stars and stripes
never before greeted the breeze, the heart
could but swell with sentiments of honest
pride, mingled with the most lively emo-
tions.*

There are many obstacles which impede
the progress of an army. There was no
road, nor even a path leading from Fort
Leavenworth into the regular Santa Fe
trail. The army therefore steered its course
south-westerly, with the view of intersect-
ing the main Santa Fe trace, at or near the
Narrows, sixty-five miles west of Inde-
pendence. In accomplishing this, many
deep ravines, and creeks with high and
rugged banks, were to be encountered.
The banks must be dug down, the asperi-
ties leveled, bridges built, and roads con-
structed, before the wagons could pass.
All this required time and labor. The heat
was often excessive; the grass was tall and

* In a letter addressed by the author to the editor
of the Tribune, a paper published in Liberty, about
the time the expedition set forward, the following
language was employed: "There is a novelty in
this anabasis or invasion of Cols. Kearney and
Doniphan. For the first time since the creation,
the starred and striped banner of a free people is be-
ing borne over almost one thousand miles of track-
less waste, and the principles of republicanism and
civil liberty are about to be proclaimed to a nation
fast sinking in slavery's arms ; and fast closing her
eyes upon the last expiring lights of religion, sci«
ence and libertv. "

DIFFICULTIES OF THE MARCH.

17

rank; and the earth in many places so soft
that the heavily loaded wagons would sink
almost up to the axle upon the level prairie.
The men were frequently compelled to dis-
mount and drag them from the mire with
their hands. The mules and other animals
being mostly unused to the harness, often
became refractory and balky. Numbers of
wagons daily broke down. Time was re-
quired to make repairs. Hence the march
was, of necessity, both slow and tedious.
On the 28th, the advanced battalion un-
der command of Lieutenant-colonel Ruff",
arrived upon the banks of Stranger creek,
where it remained until the 30th. Here
also was presented a scene of some interest.
Some of the men were reclining at ease in
their tents, beguiling time with a novelette
or a newspaper; some were engaged in
scouring and whetting their sabres, as if
they already anticipated an attack from the
Mexicans ; others again were bathing their
bodies in the limpid stream, or drawing the
scaly fish to the shore. The Stranger is a
branch of the Kansas, and drains one of
the most fertile and picturesque districts of
country over which the army passed.

About noon on the 30th, we arrived
upon the banks of the Kansas river. This
is a deep, rapid, yet beautiful stream, three
hundred and fifty yards wide, and more
than five hundred miles in length. It is
no doubt navigable by steamboats of the
smaller class, for a considerable distance
above its mouth, without difficulty. We
crossed the river in boats without loss or
accident, and encamped for the night on
the west bank, among the friendly Shaw-
nees. Some of the Shawmees have large
farms, and as fine fields of corn as are to
be met with in the States. They also have
plenty of poultry, domestic animals, fine
gardens, and many of the luxuries of civil-
ized life. Here we obtained milk and but-
ter ; also peas, beans, potatoes, and other
vegetables. The country between Fort
Leavenworth and the Kansas, is very fine;
the soil is exceedingly fertile, — vegetation
is exuberant; and in many places the tim-
ber is tall and stately. Bold, fresh running
springs gush from the ledges of limestone
rock, and every river and creek is literally
alive with the "finny tribe." It is des-
tined perhaps at no distant day to sustain a
dense and intelligent population. What a
cheering reflection, that these beautiful
ridges and outstretched plains will ere long
be dotted with the cities, villages, and hab-

itations of civilized life! — that cultivated
fields, surcharged with rich grains, will
soon succeed to the seas of waving verdure
which now luxuriously cover the earth!
and that where now is heard the scream of
the wild panther, and the startling yell of
the savage, will soon become the busy
scene of industry and domestic happiness !

On the first of July, the battalion con-
tinued its march in a southwesterly direc-
tion, to intersect the road leading from In-
dependence to Santa Fe. After a toilsome
march of near fifteen miles, without a guide,
through the tall prairie grass and matted
pea-vines, over hill and dale, mound and
mountain, in our .bewilderment, sometimes
directing our course to the southward,
sometimes to the westward, we at length
struck upon the old Santa Fe trace, and
encamped for the night near the blackjack
grove or the Narrows. In our progress
to-day, we encountered a formidable, pre-
cipitous and almost impassable hill or bluff,
consisting of a solid ledge of limestone,
which we were compelled to surmount, as
it was impossible to avoid it by turning
either to the right or the left. The ascent
was steep, rugged, and at least two hundred
feet in height, being the projecting spur of
the high table land which divides the wa-
ters of the Kansas from those of the Osage.
The wagons were principally drawn up
this abrupt precipice by the power of hand,
ropes being attached to them on both sides.
More than one hundred men were often
employed at once in drawing a heavily
loaded government wagon to the summit
of the hill. The heat was excessive.

It may be proper here to observe, that
for the sake of convenience in procuring
supplies of fuel and water, which can only
be obtained at certain points, in crossing
the Great Plains, Col. Kearney very pru-
dently adopted the plan of conducting the
march by separate detachments. These
detachments (for convenience in traveling)
generally consisted of a squadron of two
or three companies, or of an entire battal-
ion. The companies of volunteers were
generally composed of 114 men each, in-
cluding commissioned officers. Thus the
march was chiefly conducted to the borders
of New Mexico, or the bounda*-y line
which separates between Mexico and the
United States.

Col. Doniphan and Maj. Gilpin, with
the second battalion, and Col. Kearney,
with the battalion of artillery, the corps of

18

DONIPHAN'S EXPEDITION.

field and topographical engineers, and a
small squadron of volunteers and dragoons,
followed closely in our rear; nothing of
historical moment having occurred up to
this time, since their departure from Fort
Leavenworth. Numerous trains of gov-
ernment wagons continued to be dispatched
from the Fort upon the road to Santa Fe.
Fort Bent, on the Arkansas, nearly six hun-
dred miles west of Independence, w7as,
however, looked forward to as the first
point of general rendezvous for all the dif-
ferent detachments, and for the government
trains. This post was subsequently con-
verted into a provision depot for the United
States' government.

The practicability of marching a large
army over the waste, uncultivated, uninhab-
ited, prairie regions of the west, was uni-
versally regarded as problematical. But
the matter has been tested. The experi-
ment proved completely successful. Pro-
visions, (chiefly bread-stuffs, salt, &c.,)
were conveyed in Avagons, and beef-cattle
driven along for the use of the men. The
animals subsisted entirely by grazing. To
secure them from straying off* at nignt, they
were either driven into corrals formed of
the wagons, or tethered to an iron picket
driven into the ground about fifteen inches.

At the outset of the expedition many
laughable scenes took place. Our horses
were generally wild, fiery, and ungovern-
able; wholly unused to military trappings
and equipments. Amidst the fluttering of
banners, the sounding of bugles, the rat-
tling of artillery, the clattering of sabres,
and cooking utensils, some of the horses
took fright and scampered pell-mell, with
rider and arms, over the wide prairie.
Rider, arms and accoutrements, saddle-
bags, tin-cups, and coffee-pots, were some-
times left far behind in the chase. No
very serious or fatal accident, however, oc-
curred from this cause. All was right
again as soon as the affrighted animals
were recovered.

The "Army of the West," was, perhaps,
composed of as fine material as any other
body of troops then in the field. The
volunteer corps consisted almost entirely
of the young men of the country ; gener-
ally of the very first families of the State.
All parties were united in one common
cause for the vindication of the national
honor. Every calling and profession con-
tributed its share. There might be seen
under arms, in the ranks, the lawyer, the

doctor, the professor, the student, the legis-
lator, the farmer, the mechanic, and arti-
sans of every description, all united as a
band of brothers to defend the rights and
honor of their country; to redress her
wrongs and avenge her insults. This
blooming host of young life, the elite of
Missouri, was full of ardor, full of spirit,
full of generous enthusiasm, burning for
the battle field, and panting for the rewards
of honorable victory. They were promp-
ted to this gallant discharge of duty, and
prepared to breast every storm of adversity,,
by the remembrance of the dear pledges of
affection they left behind them; their
mothers, their sisters, their young brides,
their aged fathers, who, they knew would
receive them with outstretched arms, if they
returned triumphant from many a well con-
tested field with the laurels of victory; but
who, they were equally certain, would
frown with indignation upon him who, in
the hour of battle, would desert the flag of
his country. Their chivalry failed them
not.

CHAPTER II.

View of the Army on the Prairies — Singular
phenomenon — Attention to horses — Fourth of
July — Council Grove — Its locale — Diamond
Springs — Government trains — Interesting inqui-
ry— Prairie fuel — Musquitoes and the black
gnat — Express from Col. Doniphan — Altercation
between officers — Chavez — His tragical end— The
mirage — Sand-hills — The Big Arkansas — Buffalo
— Pawnee Rock — Forces rc-united at the Pawnee
River — Difficult passage — The Infantry — Maj.
Howard — Charge upon the Buffalo — Reptiles
and insects — Flowers — Prairie dog villages —
Death of Leesley — Attachment of men to their
horses — appearance of the Army — Fifzpatrick,
the mountaineer — The report — Mexican Spies ta-
ken— Army encamped in the Mexican territory..

All was now fairly upon the great San-
ta Fe road which led to the enemy's coun-
try. At break of day on the 2d of Ju-
ly, the reveillee was sounded. The ar-
my was on the march ere the first beams
of the morning sun had kissed the glittering
dew drops from the prairie grass, bearing
aloft their streaming flags to the breeze,
with their "broad stripes and bright stars,"
and " E Pluribus Unum." As the troops
moved off' majestically over the green prai-
rie, they presented the most martial and

ATTENTION TO HORSES.

19

animating sight. The long lines stretched
over miles of level plain, or wound serpen-?
unely over the beautifully undulating hills,
with guns and sabres glittering in the sheen*
of the rising sun, while the American eagle
seemed to spread his broad pinions, and
westward bear tire principles of republican
government.

The following interesting phenomenon
was related to the author by one who de-
clares that he was an eye witness of the
fact, and that twenty-eight others will tes-
tify to the truth of his declaration. "Early
in the spring of 1846, before it was
known, or even conjectured, that a state of
war would be declared to exist between
this government and ?*Iexico, 29 traders,
on their way from Santa Fe to Indepen-
dence, beheld, just after a storm, and a lit-
tle while before sunset, a perfectly distinct
image of the "bird of liberty," the American
the disc of the sun. When they
Id the interesting sight, they simulta-
neously, and almost involuntarily exclaimed
that in less than twelve months the eagle
of liberty would spread his broad pinions
over the plains of the west, and that the
flag of our country would wave over the
cities of New Mexico and Chihuahua." —
The prediction has been literally and stri-
kingly verified, although the story is, doubt-
less, more beautiful than true. Quite as
much credit is due to it, however, as to the
wonderful story about the chariots of fire,
which the Romans are said to have seen in
the heavens after the assassination of Cae-
sar by Brutus and Cassius in the Roman
senate.

A march over the great plains is attended
with a recurrence of pretty much the same
scenes, from day to day. The same bound-
less green — the emerald prairies — seems
to spread out before you ; the same bright
heavens are above ; the same solid earth of
uniform surface beneath ; or if the monot-
ony be at all broken, it is by the gradual
change of the broad prairie into a succes-
sion of gently rolling hills, as if when the
unruffled bosom of the ocean is heaved
into waves by the storm. Occasionally the
dull scene is relieved by the appearance of
a rUl or brook, winding among the undula-
tions of the prairie, skirted by clumps and
groves of trees, or by the wild sunflower,
pink, or rose, which seem to blossom only
to cheer with their mellifluous odors the
waste around them. Some witty remark,
or lively song, will often create a hearty

laugh ; the feeling will perhaps be commu-
ated from vv.e end oi' the line to the oth-
er. In this way the greatest jj'ood humor
and most cheerful flow of spirits are kept
up continually on the march. An army is
ys cheerful and frolicsome.
On the plains our horses were the ob-
of out most especial attention. Who-
ever was so unfortunate' as to lose his ehar-
kvas necessitated to continue the march
on foot, or drive a wagon, both of which
were unpleasant to the volunteer soldier,
to say nothing of the chagrin of losing his
place in his company as a cavalier. We
therefore secured our horses with all pos-
sible care at night, to guard against escapes.
Great prudence was also necessary in ri-
ding cautiously, and grazing carefully, to
prevent the stock from failing on the road.
Chasing deer, antelope, and buffalo on the
plain will ruin a horse, and speedily unfit
him for military service. When a soldier
by ill luck happened to lose his horse, he
would purchase another at almost any cost,
if there chanced to be a surplus one in
camp. His situation enabled him fully to
appreciate the force of the expression
which Shakspeare puts into the mouth of
King Richard, "«.? kingdom for a horse!"
No wonder then that Alexander wept when
Bucephalus died.

The 4th of July, independence day,
seemed to inspire the troops with new
life and cheerfulness ; — although upon the
wide prairies of the west, we could not
forget to commemorate the annual return
of the hallowed day that gave birth to our
national liberty. Though on the march
all day, and in the midst of a boundless
solitude, with nothing for the eye to rest
upon save the heaven above or the solid
earth beneath, and none of the lovely ob-
jects of home around us, and none of the
festivities spread before us, which usually
greeted us on the anniversary of our lib-
erty, yet our bosoms swelled with the
same noble impulses and the same quench-
less love of freedom, which animated the
breast of our ancestors of '76, and caught
inspiration from the memory of their
achievements. Ever and anon the enthu-
siastic shout, the loud huzza, and the ani-
mating Yankee Doodle, were heard in
honor of independence day. After a toil-
some march of twenty-seven miles, upon
the green, boundless plain, exposed to the
heated rays of an almost vertical sun, we
pitched our tents at sunset on the banks of

20

DONIPHAN'S EXPEDITION.

Bluff creek, where we found plenty of
cool spring water, and an abundant sup-
ply of grass and fuel. The greatest good
humor prevailed in camp.

A march of twelve miles on the 5th,
brought us to the famous Council Grove, a
place remarkable in the history of the Santa
Fe trade, and distinguished above all others
as being the point of general rendezvous for
traders, trappers, mountaineers, and others,
of border life. Here, limbers for repairing
wagons which may fail on the road across
the great plains, are generally procured, this
being the last grove where good timber can
be obtained on the route. In this pleasant
and romantic valley, the army detained two
days for this purpose. The Council Grove
is nothing more than a forest of timber, about
one mile in width, skirting a beautiful, me-
andering stream, the head branch of the
Neosho river, fed by innumerable rills and
springs of the fine3t and most delicious wa-
ter, although some writers have attempted
to invest it with a sort of romantic interest,
and dignify it with a name calculated to in-
duce the belief that the various wild tribes
of the plains once met annually upon this
consecrated spot " to smoke the calumet of
peace." This grove, where the prairie
traveler often takes a pleasant siesta, and
where a few houses and a blacksmith shop
have recently been erected for the use of
the government, is situated about one hun-
dred and fifty miles west of the western
frontier of Missouri.

Advancing about sixteen miles further,
over high, rolling prairies, we encamped
near the Diamond Springs. The heat was
oppressive. The most enchanting spots
ever depicted by the pen of the eastern ro-
mancer, possess not more charms for the
youthful imagination, than do the groves
and the fine, gushing, transparent Diamond
Springs, for the thirsty, wayworn traveler
on the plains. These crystal fountains de-
rive their name from the limpidness of their
waters. Travelers across the plains are
compelled to stop at certain places for wa-
ter, wood and rest. These places for con-
venience are mostly dignified with appro-
priate names, though in the midst of solitary
wastes where there never existed, and per-
haps never will exist, a human habitation,
or the least vestige of civilization.

Our provisions becoming scant, on the
7lh, Lieut. S. Jackson, of Howard, with
four men, was sent forward seven or eight
days march in advance of the command,

with orders to halt a train of provision wa-
gons at the Pawnee Fork of the Arkansas.
This order was promptly executed. It may
not be improper in this connection, to ob-
serve, that the government trains, which
were fitted up at Fort Leavenworth, were
dispatched upon the road in companies of
twenty-five or thirty wagons* irrespective?
of the marches of the different detachments
of troops. It therefore often happened that
some portions of the army, for short periods
of time, were destitute of supplies upon the
road. Each of these trains of wagons had!
a superintendent-general, or wagon-master,,
and the wagoners were well armed, so that
there was no need* of an escort or guard, as
these brave and hardy teamsters were at all
times prepared to fight their own battles
against the Indians- who beset the roads for
plunder. Had the wagoners employed' in
Gen. Taylor's division of the army been
equally well furnished with arms, perhaps
so many of them would not have fallen a
sacrifice to the Mexican guerillas.

After a progress of twenty-nine miles,*
over a level, smooth surface, covered with
tall, rank grass, waving in green ridges be-
fore the sporting breeze, we arrived upon
the banks of the Cottonwood Fork of the
Neosho. On these elevated prairies, an in-
teresting phenomenon is presented, worthy
the consideration of the philosopher. A
zigzag strip of grass, of more luxuriant
growth than the rest, resembling the forky
course of lightnings may often be distinctly
traced by the eye. The proposition then
arises, may not the lightning, in its course,
thus have touched and masked the earth,
communicating to the soil a degree of fertil-
ity, which manifests itself i« the exuberant
production alluded to ? and may not barren
countries and sterile lands be reclaimed, by
conducting the electric fluid into the bosom
of the earth by mtans of lightning-rods* or
an iron forest? Surely these propositions
are of some magnitude.

A march of fifteen miles brought us to
Turkey creek, where wo found a tolerable
supply of grass and water, but not a stick
of timber; not even a twig as ktrge as a
pipe-stem. This was the first time the m.en
were necessitated to broil thein meat, and
boil their coffee on a smouldering heap of
the dried ordure of the buffdta,. which lay

* The distance of each day's march was generally
reported bv Captain Emory, of the Field and Topo~
graphical Engineers, and alsj> the latitude and longi-
tude of all places of importance on the route.

JACKSON AND RUFF.— CHAVEZ.

21

scattered in great profusion upon the prairie.
This " prairie fuel," as the volunteers termed
- it, is a tolerable substitute for wood, in dry,
but is worse than useless in wet weather.
It was our chief reliance, however, as we
advanced further upon the great plains.

On the 9th, after a hurried march of
twenty-five miles, we arrived upon the banks
of the Little Arkansas, about ten miles above
its confluence with the main Arkansas river.
Here the musquitoes, and their allies, the
black gnat, in swarms, attacked us in the
most heroic manner, and annoyed us as
much, if not more than the Mexican lancers
did at a subsequent period. While at this
camp, an express arrived from the two de-
tachments immediately under command of
Cols. Doniphan and Kearney, representing
them as being in a starving condition, and
calling upon Lieutenant-colonel Ruff to fur-
nish them with such portion of his provisions
as could be spared. Lieutenant-colonel
Rufl", being destitute himself, and having,
as already noticed, sent an express to Paw-
nee Fork for supplies, directed the express
men from Col. Kearney to proceed thither,
and bring to a halt such a number of provi-
sion wagons as would be sufficient for the
three detachments. One of these express
men, A. E. Hughes, in attempting to swim
the Pawnee river, at that time very much
swollen by the recent freshets, was drowned.
His corpse was afterwards found floating
in the stream, and was taken and buried
with appropriate military honors.*

On the morning of the 10th, a heavy
drenching rain was descending. Twenty
or thirty men were sick, and comfortably
sheltered by their tents from the driving
storm. An order was given, however, to
take up the line of march. Some of the
captains, at first, refused to strike tents ;
not wishing to expose their sick men unne-
cessarily to the inclement weather. The
order was regarded as ill-timed, and highly
improper. An altercation took place be-
tween Captain Jackson and Lieutenant-col-
onel Rufl*, commanding the detachment, the
result of which, however, was less serious
than was at first anticipated. At length, all
struck their tents, and were ready for the
march. We left, at this camping place, for
the detachment with Colonel Doniphan, the
only provisions we had to spare, consisting

* Mr. Innrnan, a merchant of Lexington, was
drowned in ihe Missouri, at Fort Leavenworth, just
before the expedition set forward. He was the first
man lost. His interment took place at the fort.

of two barrels of flour, two of pork, and one
of salt. This relieved the Colonel consid-
erably, as he had with him only two com-
panies, numbering about two hundred and
twenty men. Colonel Kearney was still
in the rear of Colonel Doniphan, about one
day's march, with five companies, very
scant of provisions, pushing forward with
the utmost vigor. The two companies un-
der Captains Reid and Waldo, were in our
advance some three days' march, and still
further on was the detachment of dragoons,
under Captains Moore, Burgwin, and Lieu-
tenant Noble.

Col. Doniphan, having quickened his
pace, overhauled the first battalion under
command of Lieutenant-colonel Ruff, on the
evening of the 11th, encamped on Cow
creek. This was the first time we had seen
Col. Doniphan since leaving fort Leaven-
worth, a distance of two hundred and fifty
miles. Uniting the two detachments, his
force was now swelled to near 700 men.
It was on this creek that Don Antonio Jose
Chavez, a New Mexican trader, was robbed
and murdered, in the spring of 1843, by a
marauding party of fifteen men, headed by
Capt. John McDaniel, of Liberty, pretend-
ing to hold a commission under the govern-
ment of Texas. This unfortunate Mexican
had with him five servants, and about ten
thousand dollars, principally in gold bullion.
The perpetrators of this bloody deed were
promptly arrested and brought to justice.
The captain and one of his comrades being
convicted of murder, before the United
States' court at St. Louis, were executed
according to law. The rest who were con-
cerned in the robbery, were sentenced to
fine and imprisonment. A few escaped.

Early on the morning of the 12th, the
command left Cow creek, and after a march
of twenty-six miles encamped for the night
at Walnut creek, near its junction with the
Arkansas. The day was excessively hot.
The thermometer, though exposed to the
breeze, stood at ninety-five degrees Fahren-
heit. The earth was literally parched to a
crust, and the grass in many cases crisped
by the heat of the sun. In the distant hor-
izon, upon the green plains, might be seen
ephemeral rivers and lakes, inviting you to
drink of their seemingly delicious waters.
It is all, however, a tantalizing illusion ; for
as you approach the enchanting spot, the
waters recede. This deceptive mirage,
which so much resembles lakes and rivers
of water, may perhaps be produced by the

22

DONIPHAN'S EXPEDITION.

rays of tlie sun being reflected from the
glossy green surface of the prairies, and also
by their suffering some dispersion in their
passage through the atmosphere, which, in
that open and elevated country is in con-
stant motion. These false ponds and riv-
ers appear to be at the distance of about
one mile from the spectator. In approach-
ing the Arkansas, a landscape of the most
imposing and picturesque nature makes its
appearance — while the green, glossy undu-
lations of the prairie to the right seem to
spread out in infinite succession, like waves
subsiding after a storm, covered with herds
of gamboling buffalo ; on the left towering
to the height of seventy-five to one hun-
dred feet, rise the yellow, golden, sun-gilt
summits of the Sand Hills, among which
winds the broad majestic river, "bespeckled
with verdant islets thickly set with cotton-
wood timber." The Sand Hills in shape
resemble heaps of driven snow.

The march had now been continued
nearly all the day without water. The
men and animals were growing faint with
thirst ; but the waters of the Big Arkansas,
rolling silently and majestically through its
own wide savannahs, suddenly appearing,
re-invigorated them. Horse and man ran
involuntarily into the river, and simultane-
ously slaked their burning thirst. The
Arkansas here is a broad, sandy, shallow
stream, with low banks, fordable at almost
any point, and is skirted on either side by
clumps of elm, oak, walnut, cotton-wood,
and other trees. The principal growth,
however, is to be found on the islands,
which chequer, with green spots, the broad
course of the river. At Walnut creek, we
overtook fifteen merchant wagons, belong-
ing to the Sanla Fe trade. Henceforward
they continued with the army for the pro-
tection it afforded.

By the dawn of day on the 13th, we
were on the march. Innumerable herds
of buffalo presented themselves in all direc-
tions. The whole plain was literally alive
with them as far as the eye could reach.
These huge animals, whose flesh is es-
teemed the greatest delicacy on the plains,
present a sight of no ordinary interest to
an army of hungry men, whose palates,
more than their eyes or curiosity, need to
be satisfied. Great numbers of them were
killed, and the army feasted upon them
most sumptuously. A march of fifteen
miles brought us to the noted Pawnee
Rock, of which Mr. Josiah Gregg, in his

"Commerce on the Prairies," thus speaks :
this rock "is situated at the projecting
point of a ridge, and upon its surface are
furrowed, in uncouth but legible characters,
numerous dates, and the names of various
travelers who have chanced to pass that
way. " A great battle, as the legend goes,
was once fought near this rock, which ap-
pears conspicuous above the prairies at the
distance of fifteen miles, between the Paw-
nees and their mortal enemies, the Chey-
ennes, whence the name. Digressing to
the left, and proceeding from this point
southwardly, four or five miles, for wood
and water, we encamped on the east bank
of the Arkansas. Here the men forded the
river, and killed plenty of buffalo, elk, ante-
lope and deer, and brought in quantities of
the grape plum, ripe and of excellent flavor.
Here also fish were caught in abundance.
The night was therefore consumed in feast-
ing and merriment.

Early on the morning of the 14th, the
army was put in motion, Gapl. Congreve
Jackson and his company being left to pay
the last honors to the remains of young
N. Carson, who died suddenly the previous
night. His burial took place near the
Pawnee Rock, a decent grave being pre-
pared to receive the corpse, wrapt in a
blanket instead of a coffin and shroud. A
tombstone was raised to mark the spot
where he reposes, with his name, age, and
the date of his decease, engraved in large
capitals. He slumbers in the wild Paw-
nee's land. This is but a sample of the
interment of hundreds whose recent graves
mark the march of the western army. A
progress of fourteen miles brought us to
the Pawnee Fork, where, to our great
relief, we found Lieut. Jackson, who had
been sent forward from the Diamond
Springs, with twenty-five commissary wag-
ons. To guard this provision train against
the treacherous and wily Pawnees, who
constantly beset the road for murder and
plunder, Capt. Waldo had left Lieut. Reed
with thirty-six men.

On the 15th, Col. Kearney, with the
rear of the army, consisting of five compa-
nies, two of volunteer infantry, two of vol-
unteer light artillery, one of mounted vol-
unteers, and a small number of the 1st
dragoons, overhauled Col. Doniphan, form-
ing a junction of their forces, at the Paw-
nee Fork. Mr. Riche, sutler to the 1st
dragoons, and post master on the expedi-
tion, brought up the mail to our encamp-

PASSAGE OF THE PAWNEE RIVER.

23

ment. This mail brought us the first, and
only intelligence we had received from the
States, since our departure from Fort Lea-
venworth, although we had advanced upon
the road three hundred miles. No one
can so fully appreciate the value of a news-
paper or a letter, as he who is cast abroad
on the solitary plains, and cut oft' by inter-
vening deserts, from all the enjoyments of
society. Every thing in the shape of news
was devoured with the utmost eagerness.
The river, swollen by recent showers, was
impassable. Col. Kearney, however, with
his accustomed energy, determined not to
delay, lie therefore caused trees to be
ielled across the deep, rapid current. This
was the labor of a day. On the trunks
of these trees the men passed over, carry-
ing with them their sick, arms, accoutre-
ments, tents and baggage. In this manner
the principal loading of the wagons was
also transported. Our animals were forced
to swim the stream. The wagons, the
bodies being made fast to the running-gear,
were next floated across by means of ropes
attached to them, and hauled up the hill by
manual power. This immense labor hav-
ing been accomplished without serious
accident or loss, on the 17th, Col. Kearney
put his whole column in motion. The
sick were conveyed in die baggage wagons.
This was a miserable arrangement. Spring
carriages, for the use of the medical depart-
ment, should have been fitted out by the
government, to accompany the expedition.
Had this been done, many valuable lives
might have been saved.

The companies of infantry kept pace
with the mounted men. Their feet Avere
blistered by their long and almost incredi-
ble marches. The ground was often
marked with blood in their foot-prints ; yet
with Eoman fortitude they endured the
toils of the campaign. Their courage
could neither be abated by distance, nor
their resolution relaxed by difficulties, nor
their spirits subdued by privations, nor
their ardor cooled by length of time. Di-
verging from the main Santa Fe road, we
followed the Arkansas. Having performed
a toilsome march of twenty-seven miles,
over a level, sandy, bottom prairie, dark-
ened by herds of lowing buffalo, and
abounding with numerous insects and rep-
tiles, we encamped for the night, and
pitched our tents on the verge of that
broad and beautiful stream. Our encamp-
ment, laid off in military order, resembled

a small city, and seemed as though it had
sprung up by enchantment. This river
has some singular features: its banks are
seldom elevated more than two feet above
the surface of the water in the channel,
which is remarkably broad and shallow.
The current is swift. Consequently, un-
der the agency of the wind and the heat of
the sun, evaporation takes place rapidly.
This is a wise provision of nature for fur-
nishing moisture to the adjacent plains,
which otherwise must have remained bar-
ren and parched, as but little rain falls dur-
ing the year in this region. To-day, Maj.
Howard returned from Santa Fe, whither
he had been dispatched by Col. Kearney,
to ascertain the disposition of the New
Mexicans in reference to submitting to the
government of the United States. He
failed, however, to accomplish fully the
purpose of his mission ; reporting that the
common people, or plebeians, were inclined
to favor the conditions of peace proposed
by Colonel Kearney, to wit: that if they
would lay down their arms and take the
oath of allegiance to the government of the
United States, they should, to all intents
and purposes, become citizens of the same
republic, receiving the protection and enjoy-
ing the liberties guarantied to other Ameri-
can citizens ; but that the patrician classes,
who held the offices and ruled the country,
were hostile, and w*ere making warlike pre-
parations. He added further, that 2,300
men were already armed lor the defence of
the capital, and that others were assembling
at Taos. This report produced quite a
sensation in our camp. It was now ex-
pected that Col. Kearney's entrance into
Santa Fe would be obstinately disputed.
On the 20th, after a march of near thirty
miles over a surface covered with friable,
calcarious lime-stone, we arrived at the
crossing of the Arkansas, where we found
an abundant supply of grass, wood and
water. During our progress to-day, we
enjoyed a very fine view of a buffalo
chase*. Nothing except a charge upon the
Mexicans could have animated the men
more, or produced more thrilling sensations.
The broad plain spread its green bosom
before us ; our bannered column extended
for miles along its level surface. Suddenly
a band of four hundred buffalo, emerging
from the Arkansas, broke through our
ranks, when our men charged upon them
with guns, pistols, and drawn sabres. A
scene of beautiful confusion ensued. Pell-

24

DONIPHAN'S EXPEDITION.

mell they went scampering and thundering
along the plain, exhibiting just such a tu-
mult, as, perhaps, the solitudes never before
witnessed. Several of these huge animals
paid the forfeit of their lives for their
temerity.

Early on the morning of the 21st, we
continued our march, winding along the
north margin of the river, leaving the main
Santa Fe road by the Cimarron, at the
crossing. This part of the country
abounds in serpents, cameleons, prairie
lizards, horned frogs, dry-land turtles, and
the whole tribe of the entomologist.
Grasshoppers are as numerous as were
the locusts sent by the afflicting hand of
Providence in swarms upon the land of
Egypt. To cheer the solitude and break
the monotony of the plains, in many pla-
ces a rich variety of flowers blossom, and
blush, and "-waste their sweetness on the
desert air. " The prairie pink or yamper,
is an exquisite flower of a rich purple
color. The root of this plant is bulbous
and esculent. When dried, the Indians
use it for bread. The blue lily of the
bottom prairie, the white poppy, and the
mimic morning-glory, are interesting speci-
mens of prairie flowers, and would do
honor to the finest gardens in Missouri.
After a progress of twenty-seven miles,
we encamped on the river bank, in a rich
bottom prairie. At this time, we had on
the sick list, one hundred men.

Wednesday, 22d, we vigorously pushed
forward, rarely ever losing sight of that
broad, bright zone of water, the Arkansas,
which was our only dependence for
quenching thirst. In many places, scatter-
ing clumps of cottonwood trees border
each of its banks, and, on every island
(which is guarded by the stream from the
sweeping, annual prairie conflagrations,)
invite into their umbrageous bowers the
sun-burnt, way-worn soldier. A few
hours' rest refits him for the march. To-
day, we passed Pawnee Fort, an old de-
cayed stockade, and a few crumbling ca-
bins, on an island where many years ago,
as tradition says, a great battle was fought
between the Pawnees and their besiegers,
the Cheyennes. The face of the country
is uniformly level. A great variety of
pleasing and interesting flowers made their
appearance; — prairie dog villages abound.
These wide solitary domains of the prai-
ries, although they can never be occupied
by civilized man, are nevertheless tenanted

by very interesting little villagers. These
little prairie dogs, or squirrels, which have
attracted the attention of the traveler and
the tourist, are queer creatures. They
wrould sit perched on their domicils, and
bark like a terrier at the whole army. A
march of eighteen miles brought us to our
camp on the river bank, where we obtained
excellent water by sinking barrels two or
three feet in the sand; the river water be-
ing rendered unpleasant by the excessive
heat of the sun. The Arkansas is one of
the finest streams in the world for bathing
purposes. The water is generally two or
three feet deep, swiftly rolling over a bed
of yellow sand, no less beautiful than the
golden sands of the fabled Pactolus. Of
an evening I have witnessed more than five
hundred men enjoying this re-invigorating
luxury at one time, splashing and plunging
about in the waves.

The march was continued on the 23d,
without the occurrence of any event wor-
thy of historical record. Mr. Augustus
Leesley, an intelligent young man of the
Cole company, died of a chronic affection
on the 22d, and his corpse was decently
interred to-day on the road side, in a deso-
late tract of country, four miles above Paw-
nee Fort; twelve rounds were fired over
his grave, and a rude stone was placed to
mark the spot where he rests. The army
again becoming scant of provisions, Lieut.
Sublette with four men was sent in advance
to bring to a halt a train of commissary
wagons. This order was promptly put
into execution by Lieut. Sublette, notwith-
standing the wagons were much farther
upon the road than was anticipated. Ta-
king with him but two days' rations, and
being out seven, he and his party were
compelled to travel night and day to escape
starvation.

On the 24th, Ave marched twelve miles,
and nooned in a rich bottom prairie, where
the grass was abundant and of good qual-
ity. The wild, spontaneous pumpkin vines
made the prairie resemble the cultivated
fields of Missouri. Limestone and sand-
stone were here found promiscuously ar-
ranged, the latter predominating in the
vicinity of the mountains. Eight miles
further brought us to our camp on the river
margin, densely covered with tall grass,
pea-vines and rushes. Many of our horses
had by this time failed, and had been aban-
doned to their fate on the great prairies. A
man six hundred miles from the nearest

MEXICAN SPIES.

25

civilized settlements, in a desert country,
feels a kind of friendship and sympathy
for his horse, when he abandons him on
the plains to be devoured by wolves or
captured by Comanehes, that almost makes
him shed tears. He feels as though he
were abandoning his best friend to perish
in a desolate land.

The march was continued with the ut-
most vigor on the 25th, 26th and 27th,
following the course of the river, at an
average of about twenty-seven miles per
day, over a heavy, sandy road. Lieuten-
ant-colonel Ruff, with the tirst battalion,
being now some four or five miles in ad-
vance of the main army, halted and ordered
drill until Col. Kearney should come up.
This ill-timed order for drill, where Apol-
lo's shafts fell thick and heavy, and where
every breeze that swept across the parched
and heated plain felt as withering as the
breath of the Sahara, produced an excite-
ment in his command which came near re-
sulting in a total disregard of the order.
In consequence of this and certain other
strict orders subsequently issued, Lieuten-
ant-colonel Ruff's popularity with his men
began to wane. We were now passing
beyond the region frequented by the buffalo,
the most interesting and by far the most
useful tenant of the plains, and entering
upon the confines of a still more desolate
tract. The earth was covered with a sali-
nous incrustation, and the parched grass
was stiffened by salt crystalizations. The
pulverized earth resembled smouldering
embers.

On the morning of the 28th, the whole
army moved off, exhibiting a fine appear-
ance, with streaming penons and glittering
arms, as they wound around the hills,
or stretched along the level plain. The
shrill notes of the clarion animated every
heart. There are moments of pride in
the history of every man's life ; so there
are crises of more than ordinary interest
in the march of every army. This was
one of them. Every bosom heaved with
emotion; for we could now see, though we
could not, like the ancient herald, hurl a
spear, into the enemy's country. The
earth was covered with pebbles washed by

the rains, and worn by the winds as smooth
as glass, and heated by the sun to such a
degree that they would scorch the naked
foot to a blister. The plain here is inter-
sected by high ridges of hard sandstone,
striped with blue and red, somewhat re-
sembling the gaudy colors of the rainbow.
This is a segment of the great American
Sahara. Excepting in the Arkansas bot-
tom, there is little or no vegetation. For
many months in the year, neither dew nor
rain falls upon the thirsty desert.

Continuing the march on the 29th, we
met Fitzpatrick, the mountaineer, on ex-
press from Fort Bent to Col. Kearney,
with the following information from Santa
Fe: "That Governor Armijo had called
the chief men of counsel together to delib-
erate on the best means of defending the
city of Santa Fe ; that hostile preparations
were rapidly going on in all parts of New
Mexico ; and that Col. Kearney's move-*
ments would be vigorously opposed." —
Three Mexicans were taken prisoners near
Fort Bent, supposed to be spies, with blank
letters upon their persons addressed to Col.
Kearney. This piece of ingenuity was
resorted to, no doubt to avoid detection by
x\merican residents and traders at Bent's
Fort. These Mexicans were conducted,
by order of Col. Kearney, through our
camp and shown our artillery, then peace-
ably allowed to retire to Santa Fe, and re-
port what they had seen.

The future was pregnant with conse-
quences of the greatest moment. An un-
certain destiny awaited us. Some antici-
pated victory ; others apprehended disaster.
Twenty days were to determine our fate.
We were already encamped in the enemy's
territory. Were we to be defeated and
completely overthrown? or were we to en-
ter triumphantly into the capital and plant
the flag of our country on its adobe walls?
These were questions in the minds of all,
which time alone could solve. The sequel,
however, will develop the manner in which
the principles of our republican govern-
ment were established in that benighted
and priest-governed land, without the an-
ticipated effusion of blood.

26

DONIPHAN'S EXPEDITION.

CHAPTER III.

The Estampcda — Fort Bent — Lieut. De Courcy —
Arapaho Chief — March resumed — The army
passes the Desert — An adventure — Spanish peaks
— Half Rations — Return of De Courcy — Doni-
phan's speech — Arrival at Las Bagas — Priest of
San Miguel — Mexican Prisoners — The Pecos
Ruins — Traditions and Legends — Anticipated
Battle of the Canon — Capture of Santa Fe —
Gen. Kearney's Speech — Camp Rumors, &c.

Having on the 29th crossed the Arkan-
sas and encamped in the Mexican territo-
ry, about eight miles below Bent's Fort,
a greater degree of vigilance became neces-
sary, to guard against the cunning of those
Ishmaelit.es of the desert, the Comanches,
whose country we had unceremoniously
invaded, as well as to prevent surprise by
the Mexicans themselves. Our encamp-
ment was therefore laid out with the most
scrupulous regard to military exactness. —
A strong picket and also camp guard were
detailed and posted. Our animals being
much fatigued by long marches, it was
deemed advisable to rest and recruit them
some two or three days. They were, by
order of the Colonel, turned loose upon the
prairie to graze, under a strong guard, a
few of them only being tethered. At first,
a few of them took fright at an Indian, or
perhaps a gang of prowling wolves, which
by degrees was communicated to others,
until the whole caballada took a general
e.starnpeda, and scampered over the plain
in the most furious manner. This was a
scene of the wildest and most terrible con-
fusion. A thousand horses were dashing
over the prairie without riders, enraged
and driven to madness and desperation by
the iron pickets and the lariats which goad-
ed and lashed them at every step. After
great labor, most of them were recovered,
some of them thirty and some of them fifty
miles from camp. About sixty-five of the
best of them were irrecoverably lost.

Fort Bent* is situated on the north bank
of the Arkansas, six hundred and fifty miles
west of Fort Leavenworth, in latitude 38°
02' north, and longitude 103° 03' west
from Greenwich. The exterior Avails of
this fort, whose figure is that of an oblong
.square, are fifteen feet high and four feet
thick. It is a hundred and eighty feet
long, and one hundred thirty-five feet wide,
and is divided into various compartments,
the whole built of adobes, or sun-dried
brick. It has been converted into a gov-

* See page 3 i.

ernment depot. Here a great many of the
government wagons were unloaded and
sent back to Fort Leavenworth for addi-
tional supplies. Here also the caravans of
traders awaited the arrival of the army,
thenceforward to move under the wing of
its protection.

While in this encampment on the 30th,
Capts. Reid and Waldo, of the volunteers,
and Capts. Moore, and Burgwin, and Lieut.
Noble of the 1st dragoons, with their res-
pective commands, rejoined the army, hav-
ing vainly pursued Speyers and Armijo,
who, it was supposed were endeavoring to
supply the enemy with ammunition and
arms. About this time, Lieut. De Courcy
was dispatched with twenty men with or-
ders to proceed directly through the moun-
tains to the valley of Taos, and having as-
certained the intentions and disposition of
the people, to report to Col. Kearney on
the road to Santa Fe as soon as practicable.
Having received his instructions, this pa-
cificator set forward on the 31st, prepared
for either of the alternatives, peace or
war.*"

Here it was that the Chief of the Arapa-
ho tribe of Indians visited our camp to see
the American commander, and look at his
"big guns." With astonishment he ex-
pressed his admiration of the Americans,
signifying that the New-Mexicans would
not stand a moment before such terrible
instruments of death;' but would escape to
the mountains with the utmost dispatch.

August 1st we moved up the river and
encamped near Fort Bent. Here, by or-
der of the colonel commanding, Dr.Vaughan
of Howard, assistant surgeon, was left
in charge of twenty-one sick men, who
were unable to proceed further, and had
been pronounced physically unfit for ser-
vice. Of this number some died,t some

* The following interesting anecdots was related
by the lieutenant who conducted this pioneer party:

"We took three pack-mules laden with pro-vi-
sions, and as we did not expect to be long absent,
the men took no extra clothing.

Three days after we left the column our mules
fell down, and neither gentle means nor the points
of sabres had the least effect in inducing them to
rise. Their term of service with Uncle Sam was

out. "What's to be done?" said the sergeant

" Dismount !" said I, " Off with your shirts and
drawers, men.1 tie up the sleeves and legs, and each
man bag one-twentieth part of the flour!" Hav-
ing done this, the bacon was distributed to the men
and tied to the cruppers of their saddles. Thus loa-
ded we pushed on without the slightest fear of our
provision train being "cut off."

j Wm. Duncan, and Fugitt, the former of Clay,

DIFFICULTIES OF THE MARCH.

27

were discharged and returned to Missouri,
and others having recovered, came on and
re-joined the army at Santa Fe.

The march upon Santa Fe was resumed
August 2d, 1846, after a respile of" three
days in the neighborhood of fort Bent. As
we passed the fort the American flag was
raised, in compliment to our troops, and, in
concert with our own, streamed most ani-
matingly in the gale that swept from the
desert, while the tops of the houses were
crowded with Mexican girls, and Indian
squaws, intently beholding the American
army. After a march of twenty-four miles,
following the course of the river, we pitched
our tents on a perfectly bare sand beach,
with scarcely a shrub or spear of grass for
our almost famishing animals. The gale
from the inhospitable desert, which extend-
ed southwardly to the Raton mountains,
and south-eastwardly to the borders of Tex-
as, and over which the next day we were
to commence our march, furiously drove
the sand, like pelting hail upon us. A few
patches of the prickly pear, the wild sage,
the spiral, or screw bush, and a mimic arbor
vita?, are the only green shrubs that can
vegetate in this arid and parched waste.

After spending a comfortless night on the
banks of the Arkansas, the water of which
is very cool and refreshing, so near the
mountains, on the morning of the 3d we
struck oft' at right angles with the river from
a point a few miles above the mouth of the
Timpa, pursuing our course up that stream
on account of water. The army was now
upon the Great American Desert. The
wind and driven sand continued to annoy
both man and beast. * The parched earth
appeared as though it had not been refresh-
ed by a shower since the days of Noah's
flood. The wagons moved heavily, the
wheels uniformly sinking over the felloes
in the sand or pulverized earth. A toil-
some march of twenty-five miles brought
is to our camp, on a bare sand bank, totally
destitute of green grass or other vegetation
for dor animals. The water was scarce,
muddy, bitter, filthy, and just such as Ho-
race in his Brundusium letter pronounced
" vilissima rerum."

The American desert, is, perhaps, no
less sterile, sandy, parched and destitute of

and the latter of Jackson county, were among those
who died. Four others died — names not known.

Besides these 21 volunteers, there was a number
of dragoons and teamsters left sick, under the care of
assistant surgeon Vaughan. The whole amounted
to about sixty.

water and every green herb and living
thing, than the African Sahara. In the
course of a long day's march we could
scarcely find a pool of water to quench the
thirst, a patch of grass to prevent our ani-
mals perishing, or an oasis to relieve the
weary mind. Dreary, sultry, desolate,
boundless solitude reigned as far as the eye
could reach, and seemed to bound the dis-
tant horizon. We suffered much with the
heat, and thirst, and the driven sand —
which filled our eyes, and nostrils, and
mouths, almost to suffocation. Many of
our animals perished on the desert. A
Mexican hare, or an antelope, skimming
over the ground with the utmost velocity,
was the only living creature seen upon this
plain. The Roman army under Metellus,
on its march through the deserts of Africa,
never encountered more serious opposition
from the elements than did our army in its
passage over this American Sahara.

The march was continued on the 4th
with little or no alteration. The wind still
drove the sand furiously in our faces ; the
heat was oppressive ; and the sand was
deep and heavy. After a progress of twen-
ty-seven miles we again encamped on the
vile, filthy Timpa, the water of which was
still bitter and nauseating. Our animals
perished daily.

Vigorously pushing forward on the 5th,
having made twenty-eight miles during the
day, we passed out of the desert, crossed
the river Purgatoire, and encamped on its
southern bank. This lovely, clear, cool,
rippling mountain stream was not less
grateful to our army, after four days' un-
paralleled marching on the desert, than was
that stream to the Israelitish army, which
gushed from the rock when struck by the
rod of the prophet. The lofty Cimarron
and Spanish peaks were distinctly visible
to the south, and west, towering in awful
grandeur far above the clouds, their sum-
mits capped with eternal snow.

After supper, W. P. Hall,* R. W. Flem-
ing, M. Ringo, the author, and others whose
names are not remembered, led by a spirit
of adventure, as well as by a desire to re-
cruit their horses, which had now been
famishing for four days, determined to pass
over the Purgatoire near to the base of the
mountains towards the north-west, where
there was plenty of good grass, and lei

* Mr. W. P. Hall was chosen as a Representative
to Congress while a private soldier in Col. Doni-
phan's regiment. He was an inmate of the same
tent with the author.

28

DONIPHAN'S EXPEDITION.

xhem graze during the night. We went
about two miles up the river before we
ventured to cross. By this time it was
dark. The valley for three miles in extent
was covered with undergrowth, and matted
together so thickly with vines that it was
almost impervious. After hours of labor
and bewilderment among the brush, we fi-
nally got into the stream. On the opposite
side the black locusts and willows grew so
densely that it was impossible to penetrate
further. Our progress was thus impeded.
There were only two alternatives, either to
cut our way through, or return to camp.
We chose the former. So we went to work
with our bo wieknives, chopping the brush in
the dark and leading our horses in the space
thus cleared. In this manner we made
our way through that inexpressibly dismal
brake which lines the margin of the Purga-
toire. About midnight we got through into
the open plain, close under the mountains,
which towered high in the heavens to the
westward. Our horses fared well ; but we,
ourselves, returned the next morning en-
tirely satisfied ever afterwards to remain in
camp during the night.

On the 6th we advanced about seven
miles, and encamped on a spring branch,
issuing from the base of the Cimarron
peak.* Here several of the men ascended
to the summit of this lofty mountain, ele-
vated many thousand feet above the plains
and valleys below. The scene was truly
grand and magnificent. The Spanish
peaks, twin brothers in the midst of deso-
lation, rose still above us to the westward,
lifting hicrh into the heavens their basaltic
pillars and spurs, girt with clouds, and
glistening with perennial snow; while
towering still above these, rose the grander
and loftier summits of the Cordilleras, like
blue, amethystine clouds, in the distant
south-western horizon. Thus surrounded
by the grandest scenery the world can fur-
nish, the author read with double enthusi-
asm the first canto of Campbell's Pleasures
of Hope.

On the 7th, at an early hour, the advance
was sounded. Our route led up a narrow
defile through the mountains between the
Cimarron and the Spanish peaks, called
the Raton Pass. This day's march was
extremely arduous and severe on our
teams. Rough roads and rocky hills ob-
structed our progress. The wagons were

often hauled up the abrupt and declivitous
spurs of the mountains by means of ropes,
and in the same manner let down on the
opposite side. Progressing a distance of
eighteen miles up this chasm, or pass, with-
mountains precipitously rising on both
sides, we arrived at a point where they
suddenly diverge on either hand, and seve-
ral miles beyond, as suddenly contract,
thus forming an amphitheatre on the grand-
est scale, sufficiently spacious to accommo-
date the whole human race in an area, so
situated that one man might stand on the
Cimarron peak and behold them all. The
great amphitheatre of Statilius Taurus,
with its seventy thousand seats rising in
circular tiers one above another, would
have been nought in the comparison.. The
knobs and peaks of basalt and granite,
projecting into the region of the clouds,
present a scene of true sublimity. This
display of the Almighty's power, is suffi-
cient to extort reverence from the lips of
an infidel. Surely, the "un-devout astro-
nomer is mad." Near this romantic spot
we encamped for the night. The grass
wras abundant and of excellent quality :
the water cool and refreshing.

On the 8th,* the army vigorously set
forward, and crossed the grand ridge
which divides the waters of the Purga-
toire, the Cimarron, and the Rio Colora-
do.! This elevated range of mountains
is adorned by forests of pines and cedars.
After an advance of eighteen miles, over
the* most difficult road, we encamped on
the banks of the Colorado.

In consequence of the great fatigue in-
crossing the Cimarron ridge of mountains,
the command was permitted a respite of
one day, as there was here a fine supply
of wood, water and grass, three things not
only convenient, but almost essential to an
army. This was the Sabbath, and the
only Sabbath's rest we had enjoyed since
our departure from Missouri. Here we
shaved and dressed, not to attend church,
— not to visit friends, — not in deference to
the conventional rules of society, — but in
remembrance of these privileges and re-
quirements. Neither was this a day of

*The Cimarron peak is estimated to be thirteen
thousand feot above the Gulf of Mexico.

* This morning, Henry Moore, of Saline county,,
died, and was interred in the Raton Pass. Also,
one of the infantry, belonging to Capt. Angney's
company, was found in the road, in an almost life-
less state. The dragoons took care of him, and
brought him up to camp. He afterwards died.

•j-The Rio Colorado is the head branch of the Ca-
nadian fork of the Arkansas.

HALF RATIONS.

29

feasting with us ; for it was on this day
that our rations, which had never been full,
were cut down to one-half^ From this
time on to Santa Fe, we were actually
compelled to subsist on about one-third
rations. While the rays of the sun fell
with unusual power in the valley, a heavy
shower was refreshing the sides of the
mountains ; and as the cloud retreated, a
brilliant rainbow M spanned with bright
arch " their basaltic summits.

After several hours of drill out upon the
level prairie, the volunteer regiment re-
turned to camp to partake of their scanty
allowance, not having eaten a bite that
morning or the previous evening. But
we were determined to make the best of a
hard case, and trust Uncle Sam for his fu-
ture good conduct. Therefore, all cheer-
fully submitted to the unavoidable priva-
tion. While encamped here, on the night
of the 9th, Capt. Jackson's company lost
about twenty horses in an estampeda, most
of which, after an arduous search of one or
two days in the mountains, were recovered.

After a forward movement of twenty-
two miles on the 10th, with the gray tops
of the mountains projecting above us on
the right, and the gently sloping valley of
the Colorado on the left, we pitched our
tents on the green banks of the Bermejo,
more seriously annoyed by the half-ration
experiment than the dread of Mexican
armies. It is but natural that those who
have been reared in opulence, when they
first experience hardships and privations,
-should look back with regret upon the lux-
uries and pleasures of life, which they have
but recently exchanged for the toils of a
long and arduous campaign. Our men,
like good soldiers, however, bore the evils
of the march with Roman fortitude, accom-
modating themselves to the actual circum-
stances which surrounded them. They
never afterwards, during the campaign, had
regular and ample supplies.

About noon on the 11th, we were re-
joined by the detachment under Lieut. De
Oourey, near the Poni, returning from
their excursion to Taos. They had with
them fourteen Mexicans, prisoners, whom
they had picked up in various places.
These prisoners, in true Mexican style, re-
ported " that the Pueblos, Yutas and other
Indian tribes, to the number of 5,000, had
combined with the New Mexicans to op-

* About one-third as much as the law contem-
plates as the daily ratvm of a soldier.

pose our march, and that they would annoy
our lines every day from San Miguel to San-
ta Fe." We soon learned how much cre-
dit was due to Mexican reports.* Having
progressed seventeen miles, we encamped
on the Reyado, a cool mountain stream,
where there was neither grass nor fuel.

Early on the morning of the 12th, we
passed the newly made grave of some un-
fortunate soldier,f who had died the pre-
vious day, and was buried, perhaps without
ceremony, on the road side, Colonel Kear-
ney being now some distance in advance
of Colonel Doniphan, with near 500 men.
Thus were our numbers diminished, not
by the sword, but by disease. Almost
every day some dragoon or volunteer, tra-
der, teamster, or amateur, who had set out
upon the expedition buoyant with life and
flattered with hopes of future usefulness,
actuated by a laudable desire to serve his
country, found a grave on the solitary
plains. To die in honorable warfare ; to
be struck down in the strife of battle; to
perish in the field of honor ; to sacrifice
life for victory, is no hardship to the fallen
brave; is no source of regret to surviving
friends : for the remembrance of the noble
deeds of the slain sweetens the cup of sor-
row. But to see the gallant, the patriotic,
the devoted soldier, sinking and wasting his
energies under the slow, sure progress of
disease, which finally freezes the current
of life, fills the heart with melancholy.
Such cases claim our sympathy and merit
our remembrance.

A march of twenty miles, mostly through
the gorges of the mountains, over a rocky,
flinty road, brought us to the Ocate, a lim-
pid stream of fresh water, where we halted
for the night. The nearest timber was
two miles and a half distant. Of an eve-
ning when the army would halt for the
purpose of selecting a camp ground, and
the order was given to dismount, a busy
scene ensued. Every man was his own
servant. Some were scrambling after the
scattering sticks of wood, or dry brush;
some busy in pitching their tents and
arranging them in order ; some tethering
the animals ; and some bringing water for
cooking purposes. At length, "all is set."

* Punica Jidts was the reproach of the ancient
Carthaginians. Fides Mexicana is now a term of
synonymous import, when applied to the Mexican
people. Treachery is their national characteristic.

■j- This was probably a dragoon. The initials E.
M. were marked on the rude slab that designated his
final resting place.

30

DONIPHAN'S EXPEDITION.

The coffee is made, the meat broiled, and
the bread prepared as it may be, when the
several messes, gathering round their re-
spective fires, seated upon the ground, with
appetites sharpened by a long day's march,
dispatch, in " double-quick time, " their
scanty Tare. Supper over, the men next
see alter their horses, picket them on fresh
grass, return to camp, spread their blankets
upon the earth, wrap up in them, and un-
ceremoniously fall asleep, — leaving the spies
and guard to take care of the enemy.

Here Col. Doniphan assembled his sol-
diers on the green, and briefly addressed
them. He concluded by reproving them
for their indiscretion in wasting their am-
munition upon game, assuring them that
there were only fifteen rounds of cartridge
in camp; that there was every reason to
apprehend an engagement with the enemy
in a s.hort time ; that strict discipline and
prompt, obedience were essential to the
safety of the expedition ; that their own
honor, and the reputation of their State, de-
manded the cheerful performance of duty ;
that to retreat or surrender was a proposi-
tion that could not be considered ; and that
we must conquer or die, for defeat was an-
nihilation.

After a drive of nineteen miles, along a
rugged road, through narrow defiles be-
tween the spurs of the mountains, we en-
camped on a ravine, bordered by a strip
of fine grass, near the Santa Clara Spring,
Col. Kearney having advanced six miles
further, and taken his position on the river
Mora.

Having advanced, on the 14th, to the
Mora, we rejoined Col. Kearney. We
were now on the verge of the Mexican
settlements. The country was becoming
fit for cultivation. Droves of swine, herds
of cattle, and ilocks of sheep and goats,
were feeding in the valleys and ■ a
glades. The hills and upland were adorned
with comely groves of cedars and pines.
Ranchos with their corn fields and gardens
were making their appearance, and every
thing began to wear the semblance of
civilization. After ;t Amorous march of
iwenty-five miles, we encamped on the
Gallinas creek, near the small town Las
Bagas, the first Mexican village on the
road. Strict orders w< re given the sol-
diers not to molest the inhabitants, and
also to respect the lives and property of
such Mexican citizens as remained peace-
able and neutral.

At dawn of day on the morning of the
15th, the spies, Messrs. Bent and Estis,
who had been sent out the previous eve-
ning to reconnoitre, and ascertain the po-
sition of the enemy, and learn if it was
his intention to make battle, returned and
reported to Col. Kearney, that 2,000 Mex-
icans were encamped at a place about six
miles from Las Bagas, called the Canon
or Pass, and that they intended there to
give us battle. Major Swords had just ar-
rived from Fort Leavenworth, with the
United States' mail, bringing intelligence
of the appointment by the President, of
Colonel Kearney to be a Brigadier-gen-
eral in the United States' Army. Other
important documents were received be-
sides Colonel Kearney's commission as-
a Brigadier-general, but now there was
no time for reading letters and newspa-
pers.

Gen. Kearney immediately formed the
line of battle. The dragoons, with the
St. Louis mounted volunteers were stationed
in front; Major Clark, with the battalion
of volunteer light artillery in the centre :
and Col. Doniphan's regiment of moun-
ted volunteers in the rear. The two
companies of volunteer infantry Avere de-
ployed on each side of the line of march,
as flankers. The baggage and merchant
trains were next in order, with Capt. Wal-
ton's mounted company (B) as a rear
guard. There was also a strong advance
guard. The cartridges were hastily dis-
tributed ; the cannons swabbed and rigged ;
the port-fires burning ; and every rifle
charged. The advance was sounded by
martial trumpet and horn. Tie banners
streamed in every direction. The officers
dashed along the lines — the high-toned
chivalry of the American character beamed
from every eye — in every countenance
was expressed the settled determination to
win — every heart was stout — every lip
quivered with resolution, and every arm
Avas nerved for the conflict.

In passing this little town, Las Bagas,
the general halted the army, and on the
top of a large flat-roofed building, assem-
bled the Alcalde or magistrate and other
men of distinction among the Mexicans,
and there, on the holy cross, administered
to them the oath of allegiance to the laws
and government of the United States. —
This done, the army hurried on to the
Canon in high spirits and hope, being con-
fident of victory. When we arrived, how-

MEXICAN PRISONERS.

ever, at the place where we expected to
engage with the enemy, to our great dis-
appointment, the Mexicans had dispersed,
and there was no one to oppose our march.
It is perhaps better thus to have gained a
bloodless victory by the terror of our arms,
than to have purchased it with blood and
loss of life.

About noon we passed the small village
Tecolate, the inhabitants of which willingly
received us, and cheerfully took the oath
of allegiance to our government, adminis-
tered to them by Gen. Kearney as at Las
Bagas. Our men were covered with sweat
and dust, from the exercise and excitement
through which they had gone, so com-
pletely that it was impossible to tell one
man from another. Having marched twen-
ty milc^, we encamped within about six
miles of San Miguel, near a small rancho,
where we found plenty of water, wood,
and fine grass for our animals.

On the 16th, after a progress of six
miles, we arrived at San Miguel, situated
on the river Pecos, and famous as being
the place near which the Texan army un-
der command of Gen. McLeod, fell into
the hands of Gen. Salezar and Gov. Ar-
mijo, in 1841. Here again Gen. Kearney,
assembling the citizens of the place, as
usual, on the terraced roof of some spa-
cious building, delivered to them a stern,
sententious speech, absolving them from
any further allegiance to the Mexican gov-
ernment. When the general was about
to compel them to swear fealty to our gov-
ernment on the sacred cross, the Alcalde
and Priest objected. The general inquired
the grounds of their objection. They re-
plied, that the oath he required them to
take would virtually render them traitors
to their country, a sin of which they dis-
dained to be guilty. Gen. Kearney hav-
ing promised protection to their persons
and property, as to other citizens of the
United States, and also having threatened
to subvert the town unless they should sub-
mit, they were at length induced to take
the oath.

The army having proceeded about ten
miles farther, encamped on the Pecos, near
San Jose. Here the water Mas excellent,
but the grass was indifferent.. Bold springs
of delicious water gush from the rocks.

During the night of the 16th, while we
were encamped at San Jose, the picket
guard placed out by Col. Doniphan, took
the son of the Mexican general, Salezar,

prisoner. He was a spy, and was held in
custody until our arrival at Santa Fe, where
he was afterw ards set at liberty. This pris-
oner's father, Gen. Salezar, is the same de-
testable wretch who captured the Texans
near Anton Chico and San Miguel, and
treated them with such wanton cruelty and
inhumanity. It was by his order that G.
Wilkins Kendall was robbed of his pass-
ports ; it was his influence that procured
the execution of the brave Howland, Rosen-
bury and Baker, all American citizens.
Young Salezar was taken by James Chorn
and Thomas McCarty, of the Clay compa-
ny. Also, two other Mexican soldiers
were made prisoners the same night.

On the morning of the 17th, these last
mentioned prisoners were, by order of Gen.
Kearney, conducted through our camps and
shown our cannon. They were then suf-
fered to depart, and tell their own people
what they had seen. To color anil exagge-
rate accounts is a truly Mexican character-
istic. They therefore returned to their
comrades in arms, representing our num-
bers at 5,000 men, and declaring we had so
many pieces of cannon, that they could not
count them. This highly colored account
of our strength, no doubt spread dismay
through their ranks, and increased the de-
sertions from Armijo's standard, which
were already going on to an extent well
calculated to alarm him.

After a march of ten miles, we came to
the Pecos village, now in rains. This vil-
lage was formerly the seat of a flourishing
and powerful tribe, claiming to be the lineal
descendants of the great Montezuma. " A
tradition was prevalent among them," ob-
serves Mr. Gregg, " that Montezuma had
kindled a holy fire, and enjoined their an-
cestors not ^to suffer it to be extinguished
until he should return to deliver his people
from the yoke of the Spaniards. In pursu-
ance of these commands, a constant *uatch
had been maintained for ages to prevent fe
fire from going out ; and, as tradition further
informed them, that Montezuma would ap-
pear with the sun, the deluded Indians were
to be seen every clear morning upon the
terraced roofs of their houses attentively
watching for the appearance of the ' king of
light,' in hopes of seeing him 4 cheek by
jowl' with their immortal sovereign. Some
say that they never lost hope in the final
coming of Montezuma until, by some acci-
dent or other, or a lack of a sufficiency of
warriors to watch it, the fire became extin-

32

DONIPHAN'S EXPEDITION.

guished ; and that it was this catastrophe
that induced them to abandon their villa-
ges."

The spacious temple, on whose altar the
sacred Montezumian or vestal fire was
kept alive for so many successive ages, was
built of sun-dried bricks, as the tradition
proceeds, more than three hundred years
ago. This building appears to be of Mex-
ican architecture, and is of the following
dimensions : — its length is one hundred and
ninety-one feet, breadth thirty-five feet, and
fifty feet to the ceiling — the walls are six
feet thick. The interior of the temple, the
division into compartments, the subterra-
nean cells, the decorations of the altar, and
the stone cisterns and tanks, display some
taste, although the edifice is but the wreck
of what it has been, the turrets having tum-
bled to the ground. The entire village ap-
pears to have been originally surrounded
by a stone wall eight feet in height and four
in thickness.

Most of the Pueblos of New Mexico
have similar traditions among them, respect-
ing their great sovereign, Montezuma, and
to this day look for him to come from the
east to deliver his people from Mexican
bondage. After our arrival in Santa Fe, an
intelligent New Mexican declared to me,
" that the Pueblo Indians could not be in-
duced to unite their forces with the Mexi-
cans in opposing the Americans, in conse-
quence of an ancient and long cherished
tradition among them, that at a certain pe-
riod of time, succor would come from the
east to deliver them from their Spanish op-
pressors, and to restore to them the kingdom
of Montezuma; and that they hailed the
American army as the long promised suc-
cor."

Gold is emphatically the god of the Mex-
icans. They have no motives but those of
profit; no springs of action but those of
self-love ; no desires but those of gain ; and
no restraints but those of force. The eter-
nal jingle of cash is music to their ears.
Virtue, honesty, honor, piety, religion, pa-
triotism, generosity, and reputation, are to
them pompous and unmeaning terms; and
he whose conduct is shaped by principles
of fair dealing, is regarded as incomparably
stupid. Vice, fraud, deceit, treachery, theft,
plunder, murder and assassination, stalk
abroad in open daylight, and set order, law
and justice at defiance. The virtue of fe-
males is bought and sold. Such is the
moral and social system in Mexico.

As our army passed by the villages and
other settlements in New Mexico, the
men, women, boys and girls, in great num-
bers would come out to the road, bringing
with them vegetables, bread, milk, eggs,
cheese, fruits, pepper, chickens, and other
eatables, and with the utmost importunity,
following along the lines, would seek a
purchaser of their valuable stores. In
this manner these traffickers drained most
of the specie from the purses of the Amer-
ican soldiers. Proceeding three miles be-
yond the Pecos Ruin, we encamped for
the last time on the Pecos river, the water
of which is exceedingly beautiful and
transparent. The earth in many places
is carpeted with fine grass, and adorned
with shadowing pines and cedars.

When Gov. Don Manuel Armijo learned
more certainly that we were approaching
Santa Fe, the capital of New Mexico and
seat of his official residence, he assembled
by proclamation, seven thousand troops,
two thousand of whom were well armed,
and the rest more indifferently armed, and
marched them out to meet us at the Canon
or Pass of the Galisteo, about fifteen miles
from Santa Fe, intending there to give us
battle. He had written a note to Gen.
Kearney the clay previous, stating that he
would meet him somewhere that day, or
the day following. The letter was very
politely dictated, and so ambiguous in its
expressions, that it was impossible to
know whether it was the Governor's in-
tention to meet Gen. Kearney in council,
or in conflict. The general, however,
hastened on, and arrived at the Canon
about noon on the 18th, with his whole
army in battle array. Here, again, no en-
emy appeared to dispute our passage. —
The Mexicans had dispersed and fled to
the mountains.* This Canon is nothing
more than a deep fissure or chasm, through
the ridge of the mountains which divides
the waters of the Pecos from those of the
Rio Del Norte. Here the Mexicans had
commenced fortifying against our approach
by chopping away the timber, so their ar-
tillery could play to better advantage upon
our lines, and throwing up temporary
breast-works ; but they lacked cither cour-
age or unanimity to defend a position ap-
parently so well chosen.

* Gov. Armijo, with near two hundred dragoons,
made his escape in the direction of EI Paso del
Norte. He vfa* subsequently heard of in Du-
rango and Guadalajara.

GEN. KEARNEY'S SPEECH.

33

It is stated upon good authority that
Governor Armijo, Gen. Salezar, and other
generals in the Mexican army, disputed
for the supreme command, and that the
common people being- peaceably disposed
towards the Americans, readily seized
upon the dissention of their leaders as a
pretext for abandoning the army. Thus
Gov. Armijo was left without soldiers to
defend the Pass. However this may be,
one thing is certain, that an army of near
seven thousand Mexicans, with six pieces
of cannon, and vastly the advantage of the
ground, permitted Gen. Kearney, with
less than two thousand Americans, to pass
through the narrow defile and march right
on to the capital of the State.*

Thus, on the 18th day of August, 1846,
after a tiresome march of near nine hun-
dred miles in less than fifty days, General
Kearney with his whole command entered
Santa Fe, the capital of the province of
New Mexico, and took peaceable and un-
disputed possession of the country, (with-
out the loss of a single man, or the shed-
ding of one drop of blood,) in the name of
the government of the United States, and
planted the American flag in the public
square, where the stars and stripes, and
the eagle, still stream above the Palacio
Grande, or stately residence of the ex-
Governor Armijo. When the American
flag was laised, a national salute of twenty-
eight guns was fired from the hill east of
the town, by Maj. Clark's two batteries of
six-poundsrs. At the same time the streets
were rilled with American cavalry, moving
firmly and rapidly through the city, dis-
playing their colors in the gayest and most
gorgeous manner. This day we comple-
ted a march of twenty-nine miles, partly
over a slippery road, (for a heavy rain had
fallen the previous night,) and partly over
a ragged, rocky way, through the moun-
tain passes. After incredible exertions,
and late at night, the baggage trains and the
merchant wagons came into camp, a few
of them having failed on the way, or fallen
behind ; so rapid was the march of our
army during the whole day. General
Kearney selected his camp-ground on the
hill commanding the town from the east,
a bare, gravelly spot of earth, where nei-
ther wool nor grass was to be obtained. —
So constant was the army kept in motion,

* The sepirat-! sovereignties which constitute
the Mexican confederacy were formerly styled De-
partments. They are now called States.

a

that the men took no refreshment during
the day, nor were the horses permitted to
graze a moment. At night the men lay
down to rest without eating or drinking, as
they were almost overcome by fatigue. — ■
our animals, for want of forage, were be-
come feeble and incapable of further exer-
tion. Without a blade of grass or other
food, they stood tethered to their iron
pickets, or sank to the earth of exhaustion.
Many of them had performed their last
noble day's service. Gen. Kearney had
taken up his head-quarters in the Govern-
or's palace, and caused the American col-
ors to be raised above it. Thus the city of
Santa Fe was bloodlessly possessed by
the American forces..

On the morning of the 19th, General
Kearney assembled the citizens of the
town near the government building, and
spoke to them in this manner, Robedou
being the interpreter :

" New-Mexicans ! We have come a-
mongst you to take possession of New
Mexico, which we do in the name of the
government of the United States. We
have come with peaceable intentions and
kind feelings towards you all. We come
as friends, to better your condition and
make you a part of the Republic of the
United States. We mean not to murder
you, or rob you of your property. Your
families shall be free from molestation ;
your women secure from violence. My
soldiers will take nothing from you but
what they pay you for. In taking, pos-
session of New Mexico we do not mean to
take away your religion from you. Re-
ligion and government have no connection
iti cur country. Theie, all religions are
equal ; one has no preference over another;
the Catholic and Protestant are esteemed
alike.

"Everyman has a right tr> serve God
according to his heart. When a man dies,
he must tender to his God an account of
his acts here on earth, whether they be
ojood or bad. In our government all men
are equal. We esteem the most peaceable
man, the best man. I advise you to attend
to your domestic pursuits— cultivate indus-
try— be peaceable and obedient to the laws.
Do not resort to violent means, to correct
abuses. I do hereby proclaim that, bping
in possession of Santa Fe. I am therefore
virtually in possession of all New Mexico
Armijo is no longer your governor. His
power is departed. 15ut he will return and

34

DONIPHAN'S EXPEDITION.

be as one of you. When he shall return
you are not to molest him. You are no
longer Mexican subjects : you are now be-
come American citizens, subject only to
the laws of the United States. A change
of government has taken place in New
Mexico, and you no longer owe allegiance
to the Mexican government. I do hereby
proclaim my intention to establish in this
Department a civil government, on a repub-
lican basis, similar to those of our own
States. It is my intention, also, to con-
tinue in office those by whom you have
been governed, except the governor, and
such other persons as I shall appoint to
office by virtue of the authority vested in
me. I am your governor, — henceforward
look to me for protection. "

The general next proceeded to inquire
if they were willing to take the oath of
allegiance to the United States' govern-
ment, to which having given their consent,
he then administered to the Governor, ad
interim, the Secretary of State, the Pre-
fecto, the Alcalde and other officers of
State, the following oath : " Do you swear
in good faith that under all circumstances
you will bear allegiance to the laws and
government of the United States, and that
through good and evil you will demean
yourselves as obedient and faithful citizens
of the same, in the name of the Father,
and of the Son, and of the Holy Spirit
Amen." Here shouts and huzzas were
raised by the Mexicans for Governor Kear-
ney. A very aged Mexican embraced him
and wept.

Gen. Kearney having administered a
similar oath to various delegations from the
different Pueblos who came to offer sub-
mission, tranquillity and universal satis-
faction seemed to prevail. Our comman-
der next ordered a flag-staff, one hundred
feet high, to be erected in the public square,
from the top of which the American flag
now streams over the capital.

Gen. Kearney's army was not well pro-
visioned; nor was it furnished, in all it*
parts, with stout, able, and efficient teams,
such as the difficult nature of the country
over which it had to pass, required. The
commissary and quartermaster departments
were wretchedly managed. During much
of the time, owing either to neglect or in-
competency of the heads of these depart-
ments, the general found it necessary to
subsist his men on half rations. It re-
peatedly happened that the wagons, partic-

ularly of the volunteer corps, were left so
far behind during a day's march that they
did not come into camp before midnight.
Thus the men had to feast or famish by-
turns, owing to the gross and culpable neg-
lect of government agents. The volunteer
troops were furnished with ven sorry and
indifferent wagons and teams, wholly inad-
equate for such an expedition, whilst the
regulars were furnished in the very best
manner. Owing to an unaccountable ar-
rangement by the War Department, the
volunteer regiment was not allowed a full
staff of officers, and hence proceeded the
ill-management of these affairs.

Rumor and exaggeration are two grand
evils in an army. While on the march to
New Mexico we were one day startled at
the news that the Mexicans had driven all
their cattle and sheep into the distant moun-
tains, deserted their villages and ranchos,
and burnt the grass* upon the road. Had
this been the case our animals must inevi-
tably have perished. On another, we were
perhaps told that a body of eight or ten
thousand Mexicans and Pueblo Indians
combined, were advancing upon the road
to meet us and give us battle. We were
thus constantly kept in uncertainty, until
experience brought the matter to a test.
These pernicious rumors were generally
spread through the camp by the Mexican
prisoners that were daily picked up on the
road. When we came to the Mexican
ranchos or farm houses we found abund-
ance of grass and thousands of horned
cattle, and plenty of sheep and goats scat-
tered upon the hills and mountains. These
flocks had each of them its respective
shepherd. We did not molest them. We
took nothing, not even a melon, an ear of
corn, a chicken, a goat or a sheep, from
those poor people, for which we did not
pay the money. This generous and chris-
tian conduct on the part of the American
army completely secured the good will and
friendship of the Mexicans ; for they sup-
posed, and were even taught by their priests
and rulers to believe that they would be
robbed, plundered, and murdered ; and the
whole country ravaged by the invading ar-
my. By this means the rulers hoped to
stimulate the common people to oppose
the Americans. Their appliances, how-

* Owing to the dryness of the climate in New
Mexico, (he grass is parched and crisped at all sea-
sons, a1 d will almost as readily take fire in August
as ill November.

—Ti- m ■■ - - - -

AMERICAN MERCHANTS.

35

■ever, failed of success. The kind treat-
ment the Americans uniformly extended
towards those people is worthy of the
highest praise, and will doubtless, before

the tribunal of a community (£ men who
can justly appreciate the moral force of such
an example, do the command more credit
than the gaining of ten victorieSc

Bent's Fort.

See pnge 26.

CHAPTER IV

Gkaziwg Detachment — American Residents at
Santa Fe — Herkins — Gen. Kearney's Proclama-
tion— New Mexico — Santa Fe — New Mexican
Women — The Fandango — Lieut. Oltlham— De-
serters— The Express — A Pueblo Chief — Stamp
Paper.

The next day after the capture of San-
ta Fe and its occupation by the American
troops, a heavy detail was made from the
different companies to conduct the horses
and other animals belonging to the com-
mand, into the neighborhood of Galisteo,
twenty -seven miles south-easterly from
the capital, for the purpose of grazing
them, forage being scarce and extremely
difficult to be procured near town. This
.grazing party, to the command of which
Lieutenant-colonel Ruff had been appoint-
ed, (the detachment from each company
being under a lieutenant,) proceeded di-
rectly to the mountains and valleys of
Galisteo creek, where, rinding grass and
water abundant and of good quality, they
made their encampment. This encamp-
ment, however, was afterwards changed
from one place to another, according as
tne pasturage demanded. This party of
men was, at tirst, most scandalously neg-
lected hy the subsistence department at
Santa Fe, supplies being sent them very
sparingly and irregularly. After much
complaint, however, they were more libe-
rally provisioned. The stock, which had
been exhausted by want of forage and

long marches, was soon in a thriving con-
dition, and again fit for service; so fine
and nutricious is the grass in the hill-
country of New Mexico.

A few days previous to the Americans
entering Santa Fe, the American mer-
chants and other Americans, resident
there, were under continual apprehensions
of being robbed, mobbed and murdered by
the enraged populace, whose supreme de-
light was best promoted by heaping re-
proaches on the " Texans " and " North
American invaders," as they contemptu-
ously styled us. The Americans, how-
ever, locked their store rooms, barred up
their houses, and resolved, if an attack
were made upon them, to occupy a strong
building, and unitedly withstand a siege
until relief could be sent them by Gen.
Kearney. They were not, however, seri-
ously molested, though frequently insulted.

On the morning of the 19th August, a
serious difficulty occurred between two
volunteers, one of them, his name Her-
kins, being intoxicated. The affray took
place in the plaza, under the eye of Gen.
Kearney. Captain Turner, Major Swords
and others, were immediately ordered to
arrest the rioter. Herkins, with drawn
sword, resisted. After giving and receiv-
ing several slight wounds, he was taken
and confined. By the sentence of a court
martial, his wages were withheld and he
was "drummed out of the service" of
the country.

Gen. Kearney's next official act, as the

sc

DONIPHAN'S EXPEDITION.

civil and military governor of the depart-
ment of New Mexico, was the issuing of
the following proclamation :

Proclamation to the inhabitants of New M:x'co,
by B <•> gad er-g vera I S. W. Kkaiinkt, cu/ii-
mandciig the urmy of the United S ales in the
same.

As l>y the act of the Republic of Mexico, a state
of war exists between that government and the Uni-
ted States, and as the undersigned, at the head of
his troops, on the 18th instant, look possession of
Santa Kc, the capital of the department of New
Mexico, he now announces his intention to hold
the department with its original boundaries (on both
sides of the Del Norte) as a part of the United
States, and under the name of the Territory of New
Mexico.

The undersigned has come to New Mexico with
a strong military force, and an equally strong one is
following close in his rear. He has more troop*
than necessary to put down any opposition that cm
possibly be brought against him, and therefore it
would be folly and madness for any dissatisfied or
discontented persons to think of resisting him.

The undersigned has instructions from his gov-
ernment to respect the religious institutions of New
Mexico, to protect the property of the church, to
cause the worship of those belonging to it to be un-
disturbed, and their religious rights in the amplest
manner preserved to them. Also to protect the per-
sons and property of all quiet and peaceable inhal i-
tants within its boundaries, against their enemies,
the Eutaws. Navajo*, and others. And while he
assures all that it will be his pleasure, as we I as his
duty, to comply with those instructions, he calls up-
on them to exert themselves in preserving order, in
promoting concord, and in maintaining the authority
and efficiency of the laws; and to require of those
who have left their homes and taken up arms
against the troops of the United Stales, to return
forthwith to them, or else they will be considered as
enemies and traitors, subjecting their persons to pun-
ishment, and their property to seizure and confisca-
tion, for the benefit of the public treasury. It i< the
wish and intention of the United States to provide
for New Mexico a free government, with the least
possible delay, similar to those in the United States
and the people of New Mexico will then be called
on to exercise the rights of freemen in electing their
own representatives to the Territorial Legislature:
hut until this can be done, the laws hitherto in exist-
ence will be continued until changed or modified by
competent authority, and those persons holding office
will continue in the same for the present, provided'.
they will consider themselves good citizens. »n I
willing lo take the oath of allegiance to the United
States.

The undersigned hereby absolves all persons resi-
ding within the boundary of New Mexico, from
further allegiance to the republic of Mexico, and
hereby claims them as citizens of the United Slates.
Those who remain quiet and peaceable, will be con-
sidered as good citizens, and receive protection.
Those who are found in arms, or in-tigating others
against the United States, will be considered as trai-
tors, and treated accordingly. Don Manuel Armijo.
Ihe late governor of this department, has fled from
it. The undersigned has taken possession of it
without firing a gun or shedding a drop of blood, in

which he most truly rejoices, and for the present
will be considered as governor of Ibis territory.

Given at Santa KV.-, the capital of the territory cf
New Mexico, this 22(1 day of August, 1846, and in
the 71st year of the independence of the United
States. By the governor:

S. W. KEARNEY, Brig. Gen.

About this time, Gen. Kearney came in
possession of six pieces of artillery, un-
derstood to be the same that Gov. Armijo
had at the Galisteo pass on the 18th,
which place he abandoned on our ap-
proach ; and also a part of the ammuni-
tion carried out by Speyers and Armijo
from Independence. These pieces of can-
non were almost worthless, excepting one
of them, a very fine Texan piece, in-
scribed with the name of General Lamar,
President of Texas, which was taken in
1841 by General Salezar, from General
McLeod, near San Miguel. These pieces
were temporarily added to Major Clark's
two batteries. The New Mexicans made
use of copper slugs, instead of grape and
cannister shot. They also had copper
balls.

New Mexico, whose climate is generally
bland and salubrious, embraces within its
ample territorial limits more than 200,000
square miles. Of this vast area, which
includes a wilderness of bleak, desolate,
unproductive snow-capped mountains, ma-
ny of whose summits are 13,000 feet
above the level of the sea, only the valleys
which are susceptible of irrigation from
constantly flowing streams, can be culti-
vated with any degree of success. It is
traversed by numerous elevated mountain-
ranges, the principal of which are the
Sierra Madre, or Cordilleras, and the Sier-
ra Blanco. Between these spreads out
the magnificent, basin-like valley of the
Del Norte, coursed by a broad, bright zone
of water, and dotted by towns, villages,
ranches, and farm houses. This valley
contains the principal wealth of the state.
Gardens richly blooming — orchards sur-
charged with ripened fruit — vineyards ben-
ding under the clustering grape — fields ol
wheat waving their golden harvests before
the wind— shady groves of alamos, all
irrigated by canals of clear, pure, rippling
water, strongly contrast with the gigantic
granite peaks, which, blue as amethyst,
tower high into the heavens. These moun-
tains, beyond doubt, contain inexhaustible
stores of mineral wealth. Besides gold,
silver, lead and copper, bituminous and
anthracite coal, black oxides, brimstone in

PLAN O r SANTA F E A in JJ lib JiA VlltUiNS.

Note. — The Number-, near the Encampmen's. show the regular order of Ihe changes.
— No. 1. is the only instance in which the regiment was altogether; being afterwards
broken up into detachments, and sent off into different parts af New Mexico. No. 3.
shows the regiment decreased, &.c. — Distance, from salient angle ot Fort Marcy, to lh«
Flagstaff, in the centre of the Plaza, six hundred and sixty-four yards.

The Flag-staff is one hundred feel liighj it was made and erected by the vohint*"'?*
Fort Marcy mounts fourteen guns.

38

DONIPHAN'S EXPEDITION.

its pure state, salt, and vast quantities of
gypsum, are known to abound. Corn,
wheat, rye, beans, pulse, pepper and on-
ions, are the staple productions of the
country. Immense herds of cattle, droves
of horses and mules, and innumerable
flocks of sheep and goats feed upon the
mountain pastures. The New Mexicans
are emphatically a pastoral people. The
bold unfailing mountain streams, with their
foaming cascades and dashing cataracts,
present fine facilities for manufacturing,
and seem to invite enterprise.

New Mexico contains, according to a
census taken in !844, a mixed population
of 160,000; of which number one-third
are Pueblo Indians, the original proprietors
of the soil, who submitted to the Spaniards
in the early conquest of the country — pro-
fess the Romish faith — have their churches
and ecclesiastics, and yield an unforced
obedience to the laws of the state, but live
in villages, or Pueblos, isolated from other
New Mexican settlements, and enjoy a
social system of their own, refusing, for
the most part, to intermarry with their
Mexican neighbors. They still retain a
rancorous hatred towards their conquerors.
More recently, however, New Mexico,
owing to her remoteness from the central
government, has been subject to the deso-
lating incursions of the bordering tribes,
and pro-trated by feuds and intestine broils.
Many bloody tragedies have been enacted
there. Thus distracted and unsupported,
she fell an easy prey to the victorious
American arms.

Santa Fe, the capital of New Mexico
occupies the site of an ancient Pueblo, anc
contains an estimated population of six
thousand. It is situated on Santa Fe creek,
a beautiful, clear stream, issuing out of the
mountains towards the east, having its
source in a lake. From this creek various
canals part, above the town, and lead through
the fields, gardens, and orchards, for the
purposes of irrigation. Families use the
water of the canals. Their houses, gen-
erally flat-roofed, and one story high, are
built of sun-dried bricks, called adobes, in
the Spanish language. In the city there
are six Catholic churches, but no public
schools, the business of education being
intrusted to ecclesiastics. The streets are
crooked and narrow. The whole presents
very much the appearance of an extensive
brickyard. The public square is about
ninety yards, from north to south, and one
hundred from east to west. The gover-
nor's residence, or palace, is situated on
the north side of the Plaza. The archi-
tecture is of the rudest order.

For many years, Santa Fe has been the
port of entry for American goods, and the
great emporium where the merchants of
central Mexico annually meet the Ameri-
can caravans, to purchase their stocks. It
is a city of considerable trade.

The New Mexicans are generally un-
der the medium size, and are of a swarthy,
copper complexion ; though every shade of
color may sometimes be met with, from
the fair Castilian to the darkest hue of
the aborigines. They are hospitable, but
ignorant and treacherous. —
The women, with few ex-
ceptions, are neither fair nor
handsome, yet their dark,
penetrating, lustrous, beam-
ing eyes, peer out most cap-
tivatingly from the folds of
their rebozos,* and their
black, glossy ringlets of hair,
which, indeed, constitutes
their greatest beauty. They
seem to possess more intel-
ligence than the men, and
are infinitely their superiors
in vivacity and gracefulness
of demeanor.

* The rebozo is a long scarf, or
wrapper, used by the Mexican la*
dies to cover the head and shoul
ders.

Mexican Group,

FANDANGOES.

39

The New Mexicans, both males and fe-
males, have a great fondness for jewelry,
dress, and amusements. For amusement,
the fandango appears to be the most fash-
ionable place of resort, where every belle
and beauiy presents herself attired in the
most costly manner, and displays her jew-
elry to the best advantage. To this place
of recreation and pa>time, which is gener-
ally a large, capacious saloon, or interior
court, all descriptions of persons are al-
lowed to come, free of charge, and with-
out invitation. The fandango generally
commences about nine o'clock, P. M. ; and
the tolling of the church bells is the signal
for the ladies to make their appearance at
the saloon ; which they do almost simul-
taneously. The New Mexican ladies
dress gaudily, but with little taste. They
mostly wear dresses without bodies ; hav-
ing only the skirt, and a long, loose, flow-
ing scarf or wrapper, dextrousiy thrown
about the head and shoulders, so as to
supersede both the use of dress bodies and
bonnets. There is but little order kept at
these fandangoes, and still less attention
paid to the rules of etiquette.* A kind of
swinging, gallopade waltz is their favorite
dance — th*> cotillion is not much in vogue.
Read Lord Byron's graphic description of
the Dutch waltz, then stretch your imagi-
nation to its utmost tension, and you will
perhaps have some faint conception of the
Mexican fandango. Such familiarity of
position would be repugnant to the refined
rules of polite society, in our country ; but
among the New Mexicans, nothing is reck-
oned a greater accomplishment, than that
of being able tc pass handsomely through
all the mazes of the waltz.

There is one republican feature about
these fandangoes. It is here that all class-
es, rich and poor, meet and intermingle ;
as did the ancient Romans, at their Satur-
nalia, upon terms of equality. A sump-
tuous repast or collation is rarely ever
prepared for the frolicsome coterie : but
always an abundance of knicknacks,
sweetmeats, and the exhilarating vino, or
wine ; and although it costs a man but
little to attend the fandango, and mingle in
the glesful throng, yet it very much resem-
bles the descent of ^Eneas to the kingdom
of Pluto — it is easy enough to get there,
but to return — hie est labor.

The Author speaks of the fashions which pre-
vailed during; the continuance of the American army
in that country.

Second Lieut. Jas. S. Oldham, of the
company from Jackson county, was arres-
ted on the 24th, upon a charge of "disobe-
dience to orders," by Lieutenant-colonel
Ruff, and court-martialed on the 26th.--
He was deprived of his command and
dismissed from the service "with a disa-
bility to serve in the armies of the United
States for a period of twelve months." — >
Not knowing all the circumstances of the
case, and not having heard all the testi-
mony before the court-martial, the author's
opinion were better withheld than ex-
pressed. The head and front of his offend-
ing, however, was his persisting, contrary
to order, in the determination to leave the
grazing encampment, near Galisteo, and
proceed to Santa Fe, with the view of ob-
taining provisions for his men, who were
then in pressing want. It has already
been observed that this grazing party were
supplied with the utmost parsimony.

About this time, when all was quiet in
the camp, and in the capital, and universal
satisfaction seemed to prevail, both among
the conquerors and the conquered, six
dragoons and two volunteers, without any
apparent cause, deserted the army. The
remembrance of the privations and hard-
ships which they had suffered on the
plains, and the thoughts of the still greater
perils and sufferings yet to be encoun-
tered, perhaps determined them to sacri-
fice their honor and their usefulness, for-
getting the duties which they owed to
themselves, their friends and country.—
Whether they went over to the enemy, or
returned to the States, was never cerlainly
known. Arms, supposed to have been
theirs, were subsequently found in the
city of El Paso.

The whole of new Mexico being thus
in quiet possession of the American troops,
while deputations from the various Pue-
blos and villages were daily arriving at the
capital, offering submission to the general,
and cheerfully taking the oath of allegiance
to the United States' government, an ex-
press, borne by five men, three regular
dragoons and two volunteers, was sent, on
the 25th, from Santa Fe to Fort Leaven-
worth, to be forwarded thence to Wash-
ington, containing a full account of Gen.
Kearney's conquest of New Mexico, and
asking for further instructions from the
war department. The bearers of this
express, having encountered the severest
trials on the plains during the inclement

40

DONIPHAN'S EXPEDITION.

winter season, returned to Santa Fe some
time after Christmas.

Near this same time, the priest of San
Filipe, and the curate of the churches in
the valley of Taos, came to acknowledge
the authority of the conquerors, receive his
commands, and ask protection for the
churches and church property. The gen-
eral having assured them that their temples
of worship would be respected, and their
"religion in the amplest manner preserved
to them," they returned home peaceably
and favorably disposed towards the Amer-
icans, more subdued by kindness than by
force of arms. They did not even forbear
to speak in praise of the generous and mag-
nanimous conduct of their conquerors.*

Also a young Pueblo chief, with a few
of his warriors, came in to see the new
governor. He said " he had heard of Gen.
Kearney, and had come to see him ; that
he desired to know what his intentions
were ; whether he intended to protect the
Pueblos, or murder them ; that the priests
had told him that the Americans would
plunder and kill them, and take their wives
and daughters away from them, and that
such as they took prisoners they would
brand on the face with a red-hot iron, and
thus make them American citizens ; that
he now desired to know if such was the
truth ; that if it were so, he would go back
to his people and encourage them to fight
the Americans ; that it was better to die
honorably, in defence of his people and
country, than to suffer these outrages."
He also stated that " Gov. Armijo had vis-
ited Taos, and persuaded the Pueblos to
join his army : but that the wise men of
the Pueblos, — old, venerable men, who had
great experience, and great knowledge, —
told Armijo that it was useless to fight the
Americans; that they were a numerous
people ; that if he whipped the Americans
in one battle, or destroyed one army, oth-
ers would keep on coming from the east,
as long as the sun continued to shine ; and
that finally they would kill all the Mexi-
cans, and then kill the Pueblos, their allies.
Moreover, that Armijo would run when the

" It was not long before these same faithless
priests and leaders were detecled in a conspiracy
against the new government. 0 fid^s Masicaha.

fight came on, and leave the Pueblos to be
slaughtered by the enraged Americans; that
they first desired to have an interview with
the American commander, to learn the truth
of these things before they would go to
war." Gen. Kearney then asked him what
other rumors he had heard, to which here-
plied, that it was useless to tell a man of his
information and knowledge about the tales
that came like the wind, and had no respon-
sible source ; that " reports were for women
and children to listen to, not men." Gen.
Kearney, pleased with the boldness and
magnanimity of the young chief, gave him
some money and other presents, and dis-
missed him with the assurances of his friend-
ship.

On the 29th, Gen. Kearney, having oc-
casion to transfer some public property into
the hands of a public functionary, took up
a bit of blank paper and commenced wri-
ting, when the Alcalde, who happened to be
present, remarked to the general that an
instrument of writing was not legal, unless
it were drawn up on paper stamped with
the government seal or coat-of arms, for the
State of New Mexico. He then stepped
and brought a few sheets of the government
paper to Gen. Kearney, poliiely observing
" that the government sold it at only eight
dollars per sheet, a very moderate sum to
pay for having an important document
xlricily //?£■«/." Without ceremony Gen.
Kearney changed his purpose for the mo-
ment, and wrote, in substance, as follows :
" The use of the 'stamp paper' by the gov-
ernment of New Mexico, is hereby abolish-
ed. Done by the Governor,

S. W. Kearney, Brig. Gen."

" I will now," continued he, " take it at
its real value, just as other paper." The
Alcalde was astounded, for his prospects of
furthei extortion were blasted. The com-
mon people, who had been compelled to
pay the exorbitant sum of eight dollars for
a sheet of paper, when an instrument of
writing was wanted which requited a seal,
rejoiced that they were now relieved of a
burdensome tax. It is thus, by acts of ty-
ranny on the part of the government, that
New Mexico has been the abode of misery
and slavery, instead of happiness and lib
erty.

DEPARTURE FOR ALBURQUERQUE.

41

CHAPTER V.

EXCURSION TO SAN TOME.

Scpposko Rebellion— Departure for Alburqueiquc —
Arrival at Del Gardo — Gen. Kearney and Capt.
Reid — Rights of Volunteers — Error common to
regular omxers — Sham battle — The Rio df I Norte
— Irrig .Uinij canals— A Igodones — Bernalillo — Al-
burqut'rque — Peralta — Reception of the troops at
San Tome — Lieutenant-colonel Ruff — Grand cel-
ebration— Return to the capital.

In consequence of certain rumors which
were almost daily brought to Gen. Kearney,
that the malcontents, principally the friends
and adherents of the deposed Governor Ar-
mijo, and some Pueblo Indians, were rally-
ing and concentrating a large armed force
somewhere in the vicinity of Alburquerque,
with the view to make battle, and recover
-the capita] from the hands of the Americans,
lie determined to silence these reports and
disperse these "rebels" Against his author-
ity, by marching thither in person, and at
the head of the following detachments of
troops : One hundred artillerymen under
Capts. Weightman and Fischer, forming an
extra battalion, commanded by Maj. Clark,
manning eight pieces of cannon ; forty-five
dragoons, under Capt. Burgwin, and fifty-
five of the St. Louis volunteers, (Laclede
•rangers,) under Capt. Hudson, being at-
tached to the dragoons, forming a squadron
of one hundred men, commanded by Bur-
gwin, the oldest captain; and five hundred
mounted volunteers under command of the
following officers : The company from
Jacks >n county furnished sixty-eight men
undsr Lieut. Reed ; the company from La-
fayette, sixty, under Capt. Walton; the
company from Clay, sixty-seven, under
Lieut. Sublette; the company from Saline,
fifty-f>>ur, under Capt. Reid; the company
from Franklin, sixty-eight, under Captain
Stephenson ; the company from Cole, six-
ty, under Capt. Parions ; the company from
Howard, sixty, under Lieut. De Courcy ;
and that from Calaway, sixty-four, under
Capt. Ro;lg3rs, with Lieut, col. Ruff at the
head of the regiment, Maj. Gilpin in com-
mand of the first battalion, and Walton, the
senior captain, in command of the second.
Gen. Kearney, with about twenty-five of
his staff-officers and body-<mard, and gene-
rally fifty or sixty fawning, sycophantic
Mexicans, rode at the head of the column,
which consisted of about seven hundred and

twenty-five mounted men, exclusive of the
general's volunteer Mexican escort '!*

We left Santa Fe on the morning of the
2d of September, with all our banners gaily
fluttering in the breeze, the men being in
high spirits and possessing cheerful minds,
as there was once a^ain some faint prospect
of an engagement with the enemy. Men,
seeking that just and laudable praise which
is the reward of the brave, encountering
perils with resolution, enduring privations
with fortitude, traversing plains and deserts
with patience, and surmounting obstacles
of every nature with courage, feel disap-
pointed when the fleeing enemy bears with
him those trophies which ought to belong
to the victors, and which they wotdd, should
a battle ensue, take home with them as the
evidences of their valor. It is the return-
ing soldier, decorated with the spoils of the
foe, and graced with the trophies of victo-
ry, more than he that has spent his sttength
in marches and pursuits, that receives "the
applause of his countrymen.

We took the main Chihuahua road lead-
ing directly south, with the view of striking
the Rio Grande del Norte at the nearest
point on account of water, as the country
between Santa Fe and the Del Norte (which
is about thirty -five miles following the road)
is remarkably dry and barren. The stream
that waters the town of Santa Fe, and
which furnishes abundant water power for
grist and saw mills, entirely disappears in
the sand about five 'miles below the city.
This day's march was over an undulating,
sterile country, intersected by numerous
deep, dry gullies, impassable by cavalry.
The creeks were destitute of water; the
surface of the earth was in some spots san-
dy and in others rocky, mostly covered
with wild sage in the low-lands and with
clumps of dwarf cedar on the sides of the
hills and mountains. There were few
flowers or other vegetable productions wor-
thy of note, the earth beingalmost entirely
bare. This part of New Mexico possesses

* Quite too much consideration and kindness has
bepn bestowed upon the treacherous Mexicans, by
all the American generals. It was a com non remark,
amongst the volunteers at Santa Fe, th.it General
Kearney would puniah a volunteer for an offence,
for which a Mexican would be excised — in othei
words, that he " treated the Mexicans better than he
did his own soldiers." The same remark applies tn
the conduct of Gen. Wool, while at Parras, and to
that of Gen. Worth, while in command sit l<a Pue-
bla. However, the blame more justly rests on tho
War Department.

42

DONIPHAS 7S EXPEDITION'.

considerable mineral wealth, which can and
no doubt will be fully developed whenever
the government becomes settled so as to
afford security and protection to such sci-
entific chemists as may desire to embark
in a golden enterprise.

A. progress of near twenty-five miles
brought us to our encampment on the Ga-
listeo creek, at Del Gardo, about fifteen
miles from the gold mines in the Galisteo
mountains, commonly known by the ap-
pellative, El Placer. Here there was
water in sufficient quantities for men and
animals, but wood and grass could not be
obtained without much labor.

On the morning of the 3d, the sun rose
brightly and beautifully beaming over the
lofty ridijes oi' mountains to the eastward,
and seemed to promise more than his usual
quantum of heat during the day. There
was no possibility of procuring any water
between our encampment and the Rio del
Norte, a distance of nearly fifteen miles.
We prepared for an early start, put up our
baggage, and filled our canteens with wa-
ter. Much to the surprise and inconve-
nience of the volunteers, just as they were
about moving off upon the march, General
Kearney rode round among the troops, and
seeing many of the men carelessly habited
on account of the oppressive heat of the
day, gave orders for " every man to put
on his coat, or he would dismiss him
from the service of the country.'''' This
order came like a clap of thunder in a clear
sky, as the heat was very great, and the rea-
son and philosophy of the order did not so
readily appear to the volunteers, who were
accustomed to think for themselves, and
consult their own convenience and comfort
in matters of dress. However, after some
hesitation they obeyed the order, sacri-
ficing their comfort to the general's taste,
upon the principle that they had better
concede a portion of their liberty than
assert their rights under the circumstances
of the case, notwithst Hiding their opinions
of law and propriety differed widely from
the general's. The men thus reasoned
one with another. If we suffer this man
to act the tyrant in things of small mo-
ment, where is the security that he will
not tighten the reins of his authority over
us until we shall finally become his slaves
and no longer be the servants of the public,
whose interest we believe we can promote
as well, and whose cause we can serve as
faithfully in one apparel as in another? is

our service then to be less valued bpcause
we choose lo appear on parade in citizen's
dress in preference to the soldier's uni-
form ? But on the contrary, if we con-
tend one with another and our strength
becomes divided, we shall presently fall a
prey to the enemy? and instead of g. lining
the applause of our countrymen, after per-
forming so many hard marches and suffer-
ing so many days with heat, and thirst,
and hunger and sickness, we .'hall return
home the most dishonored of men. There-
fore let us make choice of the less of two
evils." When the general came to where
Capt. Reid had drawn up his men in wait
for marching orders, observing them also
attired carelessly, and feeling enraged that
the captain had not enforced stricter disci-
pline in regard to military dress, he said,
"Captain, have your men no jackets?" to
which the captain replied, " Some of them
have, and some of them have not." The
general continued, " Make your men, Cap-
tain Reid, put on their jackets, or I will
dismiss them from the service — the gov-
ernment has paid them commutation for
clothing, and expects every man to dress in
a manner wholesome for military disci-
pline." The captain rejoined, " My men,
sir, came here, not to dress, but to fight the
enemies of their country, and they are
ever ready to be of service to you and the
country in that way. As to the commu-
tation which you say the government has
paid my men for clothing, I must inform
you that you misapprehend the truth. My
men have never received one dime since
they entered the service, and what money
they brought from their homes with them
they have already expended for bread while
on half rations, owing to the neglect of
your chief commissary. As to beirg dis-
missed from the service, sir, we do not
fight for wages. If there is no place for
us in the army, we will furnish ourselves
and fight the enemy wherever we may find
him. Acting thus we shall not bse the
respect of our countrymen." Gen. Kear-
ney bit his lips and rode off, giving orders
for the march to commence.

When volunteers, actuated by patriotic
motives, leave their homes and friend^—
sacrifice pecuniary considerations — lay
aside their peaceful pursuits and professions
— throw down their implements of hus-
bandry, and abandon their workshops, they
have the right to "equip and clothe" them-
selves as to them shall seem fit and proper ;

REGULARS AND VOLUNTEERS.

43

and no officer can legally strip them of that
right. When they o'">ey all reasonable or-
ders from higher authority, in a prompt and
cheerful manner, they perform their whole
duty to the country, as citizen soldiers. —
There never was, perhaps, better material
in an army, than that which composed the
Army of the West. Never did a set of
men— never did veteran soldiers more cheer-
fully and resolutely perform their duty, or
show themselves more submissive to order
and law. Would to God they had been
governed, in every respect, in a manner
more worthy of theirobedience, theirspirit,
and their country. Many of the officers
had performed their duty, up to this period,
with signal ability; and i\ is a much more
pleasing task to add, than detract from their
just amount of praise — to bear testimony
of their worth, than censure their conduct —
to defend, than despoil their reputation. —
General Kearney is a skillful, able, and sa-
gacious o ilicer, we'i fitted for the command
of veteran troops ; and his commission, as
a brigadier-general commanding the Army
of the West, was regarded with general
satisfaction. An officer should not be con-
demned for a few faults only, unless they
be of great magnitude. General Kearney's
greatest error 'onsisted in an effort to re-
duce the volum«'«rs to the same discipline,
and treat them with the same rigid austeri-
ty, and dissociability, which he was wont
to exercise over the regular troops under
his command. This is wrong; the former
are bred to freedom, the latter trained to
obedience; — patriotism makes those sol-
diers— these, the study of arms ; — peace is
the pursuit of the one — war the profession
©f the other. In battle, feeling, principle,
honor, fire the one; science, experience,
discipline, guide the other. They are
equally brave.

This is an error very common to offi-
cers of the regular army, when command-
ing volunteer corps. It was a great error
with Gen. Kearney, because three-fourths
of his army consisted of volunteers — whose
talent and good behavior entitled them to
a respectful consideration, both at home
and in the service of the country, and up-
on whose conduct and courage, mainly,
depended the success and safety of the ex-
pedition. Conciliation, not forc^, was there-
fore proper to be employed by the com-
mander, to retain the affections and undi-
vided services of his troops. To make
regulars of volunteers — to cramo their free-

dom, and move them as the magician moves
his automata, is at once to extinguish that
pride and spirit, that feeling of liberty, that
chivalric patriotism, which renders them
efficient troops, and which ought to make
an officer of General Kearney's standing,
proud to command them. The historian
ever feels more inclined to extenuate than
to magnify the faults of men high in pow-
er; yet, justice and impartiality, and the
cause of truth, require that he should un-
sparingly chastise the vices, as well as ex-
tol the virtues of those whose acts he es-
says to record.

We pursued our way down the Galisteo,
high spurs of mountains towering in wavy
ridges towards the eastern bank of the Del
Norte, and the huge masses of the Sierra
de los Mimbres, lying imbedded in the
blue mists to the westward. On leaving
the Galisteo, by the left bank, and at the
distance of four miles from it, the road
forks. Here General Kearney and the
dragoons took the right, which bears west-
ward to the Indian town, Santo Domingo,
a small Pueblo, having three hundred in-
habitants, while the main body of the army
followed on the direct road to San Felipe,
on the Del Norte. The chief, or alcalde
of Santo Domingo, at the head of about
seventy dashing cavaliers, with a white
flag, came out to escort the general into
town, by way of winning favor, and also
thereby intending him a compliment. — >
They made a sham charge upon the gen-
eral,and performed several evolutions about
him, displaying consummate horseman-
ship, and brandishing their pointed lances,
as if to show what they were capable of
doing, had their intentions not been peace-
able and friendly. The whole of their
movements were plainly beheld by the
volunteers, from an eminence two or three
miles distant. At first, we were impressed
with the belief that a skirmish was taking
place between the forces of the alcalde and
the general ; but as we did not see the flash
of their guns, or hear the roar of the can-
non, and, after some time, saw the Indians
and the general's troops all move off to-
gether towards the village, we were satis-
fied of the sham, and concluded the general
might drink his wine and puff his cigttritos
without our aid ; so we moved onward.

We were now at no great distance from
the Rio Grande del Norte, which all were
very anxious to see, both on account of
water, as we were very thirsty, and because

44

DONIPHAN'S EXPEDITION.

we regarded it as the western limit of our
present campaign. From the lofty bluffs
on the eastern side, looking over the ledge
of dry, rocky, treeless hills intervening,
we could distinctly see the water in the
channel of the river, three miles distant. —
We hastened forward, and were soon on
the banks of the noted stream, at the foot
of a conical shaped mound, resembling the
frustrum of a pyramid. San Felipe is sit-
uated on the western bank of the river, —
contains a population of about 600, and
has a Catholic church. The place sub-
mitted to the Americans without opposi-
tion. These people were friendly disposed,
and sold our men such things as they de-
sired to purchase. In a beautiful cotton-
wood grove, two miles below San Felipe,
offering a delightful retreat, we encamped
for the night, and enjoyed the luxury of
washing, bathing and slaking our thirst in
the celebrated Rio Bravo del Norte. The
Mexicans brought into our camp great
quantities of the Oporto grape, finely fla-
vored and most luscious, matured in the
most delightful climate. They were sold
to the soldiers. The Mexicans transport
these grapes, when matured, to Santa Fe,
and other markets, stored up in small square
boxes made of wicker-work, and packed
on mule.s and asses. The air in the river
valley, is, at this season, extremely bland
and balmy.

On the 4 th we continued our march
down the river on the eastern bank. The
valley of this river is generally about six
to ten miles wide, and is perhaps the best
fruit country in the Department. The
whole valley is finely irrigated by aque-
ducts which convey the water from the
river above. It is done in this manner :
a large canal leads the water out from the
river generally along the base of the moun-
tains or bluffs, encircling the entire area
meant for tillage, while numerous smaller
canals and ditches deriving their water from
this, pass through all the lands, and irrigate
the cornfields, gardens, vineyards, orchards
and villages. This valley is hedged in by
lofty mountains on both sides, consisting
of sand and flint stone intermixed with
basalt, forming a lane or strait; so were
you to attempt to pass in any other direc-
tion than along the valley, your way would
presently be barricaded, so steep and abrupt
are the mountains. These people possess
many rich vineyards, peach orchards, and
groves of apricots, besides flocks of goats

and sheep, which feed in the monn'ains
and on the hills. Also melons, on < ns,
pepper, salsify, garlic, and other vegetables
abound. New Mexico, in places, is .sin-
gularly destitute of timber. With the ex-
ception of a few clumps of dwarfish, wind-
riven cedar on the overhauling bluffs, and
the occasional cottonwood groves in the
bottoms, the country is woodless, verdure-
less.

The Rio del Norte is more than two
thousand miles in length, and from two
hundred and fifty to three hundred yards
wide at this point, and is so shallow that
it may be forded almost anywhere. The
water is cool, clear anil palatable as it comes
down from the mountains to the northward.
This river is not navigable at this distance
from the Gulf of Mexico.

After a march of eight miles from our
last encampment we came to the city of
Algodones, containing 1000 inhabitants.
The place submitted willingly and received
us kindly, and gratuitously offered us fruits,
melons, and bread. This is one of the
handsomest towns m New Mexico. The
vineyards, yards, pleasure grounds, orch-
ards and gardens are walled in neatly.
The tops of the walls were bristling with
cactus, to prevent theft and robbery. Here
hundreds of Mexicans voluntarily fell in
with the line of march, welcomed us, and
would often exclaim, by way of compli-
menting us and testifying their respect and
friendship, uBueno Americano," They
expressed themselves well pleased with the
change of government and the new gov-
ernor, and appeared to be proud of the idea
of being considered citizens of the great
American republic. In conversation with an
intelligent Mexican, who spoke some bro-
ken words of English, inquiry was made
what had become of the late governor,
Armijo: — he laughingly replied; "Jlrmijo
d — n — d rascal, gone to the d — /."

Twelve miles further we came to Ber-
nalilla, a small town containing a popula-
tion of about 500. After a farther ad-
vance of four miles we arrived at Sandia,
of which the population is 300. These
towns are inhabited by a mixed race of
Mexicans and Pueblo Indians. They of-
fered us no resistance. On both banks of
the river, the towns, villages, and ranchos
or farm houses cluster so thickly together
that it presents the appearance of one con-
tinued village from Algodones to San
Tome, a distance of nearly sixty miles,

JACKSON AND RUFF.— CHAVEZ.

45

resembling in some small degree tiiat beau-
tiful succession of stately mansions and
farm houses which line the St. Lawrence
from Kingston to Montreal, except that the
Mexican houses are built of adobes or sun-
dried bricks, having flat, parapetted roofs
and small windows. The day's march
was twenty-four miles. Our camps for the
night were commonly placed near the river
or an acequia* on account of water.

Alhurquerque, the seat of the gov-
ernor's private residence, his native town,
and the place at which we had some an-
ticipations of meeting him at the head of
his troops, was reached after a inarch of
eight miles. Early in the morning (Sep-
tember 5th) the advance was sounded by
the buules ; the long files were soon mov-
ing down the river, followed by the ar-
tillerv and baggage train. Our lines were ar-
ranged in order, each company in its proper
place, officers and men at their respective
posts, and our colors gallantly streaming
above us as we entered the town. On our
approach a salute of twenty guns (es-
rop'jtas) was fired from the balustraded top
of the Catholic church. This dispelled
our apprehensions, or rather put an end to
our hopes of an engagement with Col.
Armijo.t

These people received us with demon-
strations of friendship, and submissively
took the oath of allegiance toour government.

* Areoiiia is the Mexican word for canal.

j !n addition to the various intrigues by which
Cot. Armijo crept into power in New Mexico, (he
following is .confidently asserted to be true, by one
who his resided thirteen years in that country. In
his early lite, Don Manuel Armijo was employed as
a vuqueru or herder of cuttle in the mountains east
of Alhurqu* rque. About this time three wealthy
citizens of Mew Mexico, Pino. Chavez, and one
oilier, purchased 36.000 head of sheep, and started
with them to the southern markets of Durango and
Zaeatecas. They spent one night in Alhurquerque,
during which Armijo came to them and engaged to
drive sheep as one of their shepherds. He contin-
ue] in t lis employment until they arrived in the
(ireat Jornada or Desert intervening between El
Paso and lj-aguna de los Patos, where he clandes-
tinely took leave of them, disguising himself as an
Apache chief, collecting twenty or thirty Apaches
a!>out him. an. I intercepted the flocks of his employ-
ers killing some of the shepherds and driving the
rest luck tn El Paso. Having divided the hootv,
Armijo and one Mexican accomplice, putting oil
their Indian disguise, drove their shar ■ of the flock
to Durangn. sold them, pocketed the change and re-
turned t^i their former employments in New Mexico.
This trick and other similar intrigues furnished
Arm j j with means to ingratiate himself into public
favor.

Melons, grapes, apples, peaches, apricots
and pears weie brought out to us by the
inhabitants, which the soldiers purchased
liberally. This town, numbering about
800 inhabitants, takes its name from the
apricot groves in its vicinity, this fruit be-
ing called by the Mexicans, alhurquerque.
Cranes, geese, ducks, brants, swans, and
pelicans are found on the Del Norte. Very
little dew or rain falls in this valley, al-
though it rains or rather showers almost
every day in the mountains.

The army, after a march of sixteen miles,
encamped on the river, eight miles below
Alhurquerque.

This morning (6th) a deputation of some
thirty well-dressed, intelligent-looking Mex-
icans, came up from Peralta, to offer sub-
mission to the general, wh'jm they saluted
as their new governor, assuring him that all
was tranquil and orderly on the Rio Abajo,.
and that the people there desired to be our
friends. They besought that their lives,
families, and property, might be protected ;
of which being assured, they departed.
The army having progressed eiijht miles,
nooned at a beautiful cotton-wood grove,
near the margin of the river, which, from
its regularity, has the appearance of being
artificial. Near the bluffs, on the east side
of the river, are several large sand-drifts, or
mounds of sand, as fine and white, almost,
as the driven snow. These ephemeral
sand-mountains continue to accumulate as
long as the-wind drives from the same point
of the compass, but the current of the wind
veering, they are swept away in less time
than was required for their formation. At
this place the grass was only moderate —
wood scarce — blue pinks and other flowers
were found. The flora of the Del Norte
valley is rich, varied and interesting. Hero
we pitched our camps to spend tlte day, as
it was the Sabbath, and as we were much
in need of rest.*

* I he nLlit we lay at this grove, the moon shone
brightly. A small parly of men having passed the
sentry, went down to Peralta, where we expected to
amuse ourselves a few hours at a Mexican fandango.
In this, however, we were disappointed, fir only the
homeliest women, such as we cared not to dance with,
made their appearance at the saloon, the young and
fair senorif ax fring shy of men who wore side-arms.
Returning in disgust soon after, we fell amongst the
ditches and canals, and. having climbed several walls,
at length fell into a vineyard, surcharged with clusters
of the most delicious grapes. This was a fortunate
mis-hap ; for drawing our sabres, we cut off the large,
ripe, enticing clusters, and carried an abundance of
them to our companions in camp. These Lunches

46

DONIPHAN'S EXPEDITION.

While we were marching down the val-
ley of the great River of the North, feasting
upon the fruits and melons of that sunny
climate, it was impossible not to contrast
our condition, as a triumphant army, with
that of the wretched, and ill-fated Texan
prisoners, who were captured near San Mi-
guel, and conducted in chains and under
guard down the same road, over the same
ground, emaciated with hunger and ill-usage,
benumbed by the cold of winter, faint with
sufferings, sinking under fatigues, and inhu-
manly butchered, by order of that monster
of cruelty, Gen. Salezar, when they became
too feeble to endure the toils and hardships
of the march. The remembrance of these
outrages, practiced upon Texan and Amer-
ican citizens, so incensed the soldiers, that
they meditated wreaking their vengeance
upon the heads of unoffending Mexicans.
However, the more humane sentiment pre-
vailed, that the innocent ought not to suffer
for the guilty — that a magnanimous forbear-
ance and forgiveness of injuries were more
christian and praise-worthy than the spirit
of revenge. This reflection saved them.

Progressing on the 7th about three miles
we passed the small town Peralta, the
population of which is about three hun-
dred. This town is the place of residence
of the Chavez family, the brothers and
relations of the Chavez, who was mur-
dered by Capt. McDaniel's band of ma-
rauders on Cow creek, a branch of the
Little Arkansas. They are wealthy, and
have chiefly educated their sons in the
United States. They are friends to the
Americans. The valley of the Del Norte
heightens in interest, and in the richness
and variety of its grain and fruit produc-
tions, as you descend towards the South ;
while the population gradually becomes
more intelligent, and less mixed with the
Pueblo Indian races, speaking a language
more nearly resembling die Castilian, (ban
the inhabitants in the more Norihern dis-
tricts. At the distance of about five miles

were not, perhaps as large as those ihe Hebrews hung
upon a stuff, and upon the shoulders of two men,
brought down from Esehol, but they were, no doubt,
as luscious. Of course the sentinels must have their
share as we returned to camp.

Another party straggling about with similar motives
met with more difficulty ; for a part of them careless-
ly scaling the walls of a vineyard in quest of grapes.
jumped down on the inside, which was several feet
lower than the ground on the outside. Having satis-
fied their appetites, they were unable to relurn. Their
companions, who had remained without, were com-
pelled to pull them over the walls by means of lariats.

below Peralta, we arrived at San Tome, a
small town containing eight hundred in-
habitants. This place was named in honor
of one of the Patron Sainls of the country.
Here the people were assembled from all
the neighboring villages and ranchor, to
the number of three thousand, for the pur-
pose of celebrating the anniversary of the
Holy Vision, or the Inception of the Vir-
gin Mary. The occasion was rendered
doubly grand when the inhabitants of the
place were informed of the arrival of
Gen. Kearney and his troops, ss they
were seemingly anxious both to testify their
respect for the new governor, and also the
more effectually to impress us with an idea
of the pompous character of the church, to
make a dazzling; exhibition of its commemo-
rative rites. They were ignorant of ths
fact, however, that we are plain Republi-
cans, and rather detested, than admired,
their unmeaning pomp, and senseless
mockery of religion. It should be ob-
seived here, that the doctrines of Catholi-
cism, or of the Romish faith, are neither
understood, nor practised in their purity,
by the laity or clergy of New Mexico. —
Error has crept into the church. The
worship has become encumbered by absur-
dities and the grossest ceremonies. The
church is benighted. "Darkness has cov-
ered the earth and gross darkness the peo-
ple." Hence their worship is little better
than a caricature, on the more enlightened
worship of the Catholic church in the
United States, and other christian coun-
tries.

The general and his staff took up their
quarters in town, while the volunteers and
regulars encamped in the suburbs. About
8 o'clock at night the town was most bril-
liantly illuminated by the pine faggots that
blazed from all the walls of the city, and
from the tops of the churches and the pri-
vate houses. The general was saluted by
the discharge of musketry and escopetas,
as he entered the town. For four hours an
incessant discharge of fire arms, and the
throwing of sky-rockets and fire-balls were
kept up. The elements were lurid with
lona-, zig-zag streams of fire for three hun-
dred feet high. The catheron-whetd made
a circle of red light like a dizzy comet. —
These rockets would sometimes explode
in the air, and sometimes fall among the
throng and explode, producing great confu-
sion and tremendous shouts of laughter.

At the same time that all this was going

CATHOLIC CELEBRATION.

47

on, in another part of the public square,
there were, perhaps, fifteen hundred per-
sons, mostly women, boys and girls, sk-
iing on the ground, listening to a comedy
or some kind of theatrical exhibition,
which was being performed by several
ladies and gentlemen on a stage erected
in a large piazza fronting the square. — ■
Everything was said in the Spanish lan-
guage, so that the Americans who were
present, (very few of whom could speak
in that tnngue,) were unable to appreciate
the merits of the play, or say whether it
was original, or whether it was from
Shakspeare or the Bible. The women
were promiscuously intermingled with the
men, and the music of instruments with
the discharge of rockets, fire arms, and the
shouts of the throng. The whole made
horrid discord. The pageant would have
been imposing had it been attended with or-
der and solemnity. Was this "serving
God in Spirit and in Truth ?"

This strange performance attracted the
attention of such of the men as were struck
with its novelty. Some went, induced by
curiosity, others that they might gain in-
formation of what was going on. When a
goodly number of men had left camp and
gone into town to witness what might be
seen there, Lieutenant-colonel Ruff sent
Lieut. Sublette, the officer of the guard that
night, with a file of men, who, proceeding
into town, picked up such of the soldiers
as had left camp without permission, and
having collected seventy or eighty in this
way, who offered no resistance, brought
them to the Lieutenant-colonel's tent, who
immediately ordered them to be detailed
as an extra guard for the next day. Ruff,
whose popularity had been constantly de-
creasing, was now become odious to the
men. They held meetings in the camp. —
Some advised that he should no longer be
allowed to hold the command ; others, that
they should baptize him in a filthy lake
hard by ; while others again thought the
best means of treating him would be to tie
two asses together with a lariat, and make
one of them pass on one side of his tent
and the other on a different side, and thus
drag his tent down and roll him topsy-turvy
in his sleep. '-He would then rise," they
said, '-like Rip Van Winkle from foriy years
of slumber." All these expedients failing,
it is said that the door of his tent was
thrown full of the entrails of the sheep
which had been slaughtered for the use of

the army. His bedding was therefore
blooded and his tent filled with the stench.

On the next day this celebration was re-
newed. The church was crowded to
overflowing, though ample enough to con-
tain two thousand persons. The altar was
lighted up by twenty-four candles. Six
priests officiated. Gen. Kearney and staff
officers, and also some of the officers of the
volunteer corps were present, and looked
and no doubt felt supremely ridiculous,
each one holding a long, greasy, tallow
candle in his hand, which was to be blown
out and re-lighted at certain intervals during
the ceremonies. But it is a good maxim
perhaps, "when you are in Rome do as
Rome does." Every Mexican that entered
the church bowed and worshipped the Holy
Virgin, then the. infant Saviour in the man-
ger, and then the crucified Saviour on the
Cross. A very aged and decrepid lady
came in much affected, bowed before the
Saviour and worshipped him, and trem-
blingly wiped her failing tears on the robes
with which the image was clad.

During the whole time, singing, instru-
mental music, and the firing of musketry
were strangely commingled. The same
airs were played in the church gallery on
the violin, that were usually played at the
Mexican fandangoes.

The Padre walked about the Plaza,
amongst the crowd, after the conclusion of
the ceremonies, while four men suspended
over his head a gilded canopy. He was
also preceded by a file of men firing their
escopetas, and followed by a number of
altar boys throwing rockets, which kept up
a continual racket, making the heavens diz-
zy with streams of fire.

As already observed, the Mexicans are
remarkably fond of gaming, and other
amusements. Accordingly, towards even-
ing, horse-racing, dancing and gambling,
occupied the attention of the throng. Great
quantities of ripe fruit, grapes, melons,
sweet-cakes, and various other commodi-
ties, were brought hither for sale by the
market women, upon asses and sumpter
horses.

San Tome, which is about one hundred
miles from the capital, was the southern
terminus of our campaign. We returned
to Santa Fe, arriving here on the 13th,
after an absence of twelve days ; Major
Gilpin being left, with a detachment ot'men
to take care of the stock in the neighbor-
hood of Del Gardo.

48

DONIPHAN'S EXPEDITION.

This campaign, which was effected with-
out bloodshed, was attended by some ben-
eficial results. General Kearney, in his
proclamation of the 22d of August, had
promised protection to such New Mexi-
cans as should peaceably acquiesce in his
government, both against the depredations
of the Indians, and from acts of violence
on the part of their conquerors He had
engaged to defend their persons from harm,
and to preserve their rights and liberty in
the amplest manner to them. He now
visited the richest portion of the Depart-
ment, that the people might see the con-
duct of his soldiers, and have confidence
in the efficiency of the protection he had
promised. The civil behavior of the troops
toward the inhabitants, greatly conciliated
those who were disaffected towards the
American government.

CHAPTER VI.

TEuniTom \r, Lwvs — Mexican Printing Press —
Appointments to offic — Disease — Fort Marcy —
Battle of Los Llanos — The Election — Detach-
ments ordered to Abiquiu ami CVlmllettn — Gil-
pin's Return — Colonel Doniphan and Mall — Gen.
Kearney and the A pa he Chief — Genera! Kear-
ney's departure for California — Conduct of the
Soldiers.

During General Kearney's absence on
his excursion to San Tome, noshing of very
great moment transpired at Sania Fe. —
Colonel Doniphan remained in command
of the troops which were left at the capi-
tal,— a tended to the administration of the
laws, as eovernor of the department — su-
perintended the erection of Fort Marcy,
on the hill overlooking Santa Fe to the
northward, and completed, by the aid of
Willard P. Hall, the "Organic Laws and
Constitution " for the government of the
new terri ory.

The American flag, liberty's emblem,
continued to stream bravely from the top
of the tall slafl" erected for the purpose, in
the PI za. A civil government was estab-
lished and put in motion. The constitu-
tion and laws for the government of the
new territory, which had been drawn up
with much haste, were chiefly derived from
the laws of Missouri and Texas, and the
Federal Constitution. The department of

New Mexico was styled " The Territory
of New Mexico in the United States. "

In the capital was found, upon the arri-
val of General Kearney at that place, a
small printing-press, which was used for
printing public laws, notices, proclamations,
advertisements, manifestos, pronunciameu-
tos, and oiher high-sounding Mexican doc-
uments, in the form of pamphlets and hand-
bills. With this poor apology for a print-
ing press, and such worn type, and indif-
ferent ink, paper, and other materials as
chanced to be about the establishment, the
constitution and laws of the territory were
published. As the Spanish language has
no W, a difficulty presented iself in re-
gard to the type, which was at length ob-
viated by the substitution of two V's for
one W. In this manner were the consti-
tution and laws printed, both in the Span-
ish and English languages, in double col-
umn, placed in jiixta-position on e;ich page
The arduous and difficult tusk of translat
ing the laws into the Spanish, was ;;ssignect
to Captain David Waldo, whose thorough
acquaintance with the language and cus-
toms of the Mexicans, as well as accom-
plished general scholarship, not only qual-
ified him for the undertaking, hut rendered
him eminently useiul on several subsequent
occasions during the campaign.

To the end that the machinery of this
new government might be speedily put into
operation, General Kearney, acting under
authority from the President, made die fol-
lowing appointments to office, viz : Charles
Bent to be governor of the Territory ; Don
Aduciano Virgil, secretary ; Richard Dal-
ian, marshal ; Francis P. Blair, Jun., U.
S. district a'tomey; Eugene Leitensdoffer,
auditor of public yceoun!s ; Joab Hough-
ton, Antonio Ji se Otero, and Charles Bavi-
bien, judges of the Supreme Court. Some
of these men were Americans, and others
New Mexicans, the interests of bo:h par-
ties being consulted in the appoin meats.
Thus was another star added to cur con-
stellaiion.

While the army lay inactive at Santa Fi
the men did not quarter in houses, for this
was impracticable, unless they first dispos-
sessed Mexican families, which they did
not think proper to do, but pitched their
tents on the bare earth (which was covered
with sand and gravel) where they both slept,
and prepared and ate their food. Therefore
by reason of exposure and the places of dis-
sipation in the city, from which it was im

FORT MAKCr.

49

possible to restrain them, very many of
them took sick, many of them died, and
others, lingering under a slow and wasting
disease, soon became unfit for service and
were discharged. Thus our numbers con-
linually decreased, the hospitals being filled
with invalids infected with various loath-
some diseases.

On the 10th of September, Dr. Vaughan,
assistant surgeon, who had been left at Fort
Bent in charge of the sick, (about sixty in
number,) arrived at Santa Fe in company
with Lieut. Ingalls of the 1st dragoons,
commanding a small detachment, and Lieut.
Abort of the topographical corps, and such
of those who had been sick as survived and
were able to pursue on and rejoin the army.
Whether Dr. Vaughan treated the men with
that attention and kindness which the con-
dition of the sick requires, (especially on a
campaign where few comforts can be ad-
ministered to them at best,) was questioned
by those who were under his direction.
Their judgment, however, may have been
the result of prejudice.

Fort Marcy, commanding the city from
an eminence towards the north, was laid off
by Lieut. Gilmer, of the topographical
corps, and L. A. Maclean, a volunteer of
Reid's company ; and built by the volunteer
troops, a certain number of men being de-
tailed each day for the purpose. Those
who labored ten days or more consecutive-
ly, received a compensation of eighteen cents
per day in addition to their regular allow-
ance. The figure of this fort is that of an
irregular tri-decagon, and is sufficiently am-
ple to mount a great number of cannon and
accommodate 1000 soldiers. Its walls are
massive, thick and strong, and are built of
adobes two feet long, one foot broad, and
six inches thick. It is a strong fortress,
and perpetuates the name of the present
Secretary of War.

By this time such Mexican families as
had fled to the fastnesses of the mountains,
upon the approach of the Americans, were
returning to their homes and gradually gain-
ing confidence in the new government.
The administration of justice appeared to
be conducted upon safer and broader princi-
ples than had hitherto been known in New
Mexico. Industry, virtue, and honesty,
and education, which is the parent of these,
and which had been singularly neglected in
that country, were encouraged and reward-
ed. Society seemed to be re-forming and
re-establishing upon a new and republican

basis. Thefts, robberies, riots, and mur-
ders, were punished with the utmost rigor.
Thus law and order prevailed over anarchy
and misrule — tranquillity was soon restored
throughout the territory — and general satis-
faction reigned.

On the 17th of September, Lieutenant-
colonel Ruff, of the 1st regiment of Mis-
souri mounted volunteers, in consequence
of having received a captain's commission
in the United States' army, and also feeling
conscious that a large majority of the regi-
ment were unwilling longer to suffer his
government, and despised his efforts to ex-
tinguish in their bosoms that spirit of free-
dom and high-toned chivalry which make
men proud of their country and of her ser-
vice, resigned his command. The volun-
teers were ever ready to yield a willing and
unforced obedience to his orders ; for this
was xvholesome for discipline. But they
were obstinate when driven. Col. Ruff,
though ill qualified to govern volunteer
troops, has some experience in military af-
fairs, is well acquainted with tactics, and
neither to " extenuate nor aught set down
in malice," is certainly a brave man and a
good soldier.

At a subsequent period Mr. Ruff, as cap-
tain of a mounted rifle company, rendered
some very important service in Gen. Scott's
division of the army. On the 29th of July,
1847, Capt. Ruff was dispatched by Gen.
Smith with a squadron, composed of one
company of the 2d dragoons under Lieut.
Hawes, and his own company of mounted
riflemen, in all eighty-six men, to attack the
town of San Juan de los Llanos. Capt.
Ruff, finding about fifty cavalry drawn up
in front of the town, who retired upon his
approach, divided his command into three
parts, and entered the town cautiously, to-
wards the centre of which the stone houses
and churches were filled with armed men.
Lieut. Hawes first received the enemy's
fire, whereupon dismounting and forming
his men on foot, and being joined by Lieut.
Walker of the mounted rifles, they very
spiritedly returned the fire. The other
party under Capt. Ruff advancing at the
same time, they drove the enemy from
house to house with great slaughter, until
they reached the plaza. The fire of the
riflemen was astonishingly destructive. —
Here two of the principal houses, one of

* At a later period the N'-w Mexican? grew wea-
ry of 'heir conquerors, and desired new yuler? and a
new government.

50

DONIPHAN'S EXPEDITION.

them loop-holed, were defended with great
obstinacy, but were finally carried. A par-
ty was now organized lo assault ihe church,
from the towers of which a continual fire
had been kept up. But when the siorm-
ing parly began to advance, a white fhif>
was hung out. Hereupon the firing ceased
and the Mexicans capitulated. In this en-
gagement the Mexicans lost forty-three
killed and fifty-four wounded. Only one
of the Americans was wounded — none
killed.

It was this day that William Bray, a man
belonging to Capt. Stephenson's company,
became intoxicated and entirely incontrolla-
ble. Afier swearing and swaggering in a
most unbecoming manner, resisting every
effort which was made to pacify him, he
seized his butcher-knife and made threats
against the life of his captain. The captain
for some time carefully avoided him, ?nd
endeavored to persuade him to his duly, but
all in vain — he rushed furiously into the
captain's tent with knife drawn, and made
an attempt upon his life. The captain, in
self-defence, drew a pistol and shot Bray
through ihe heart, who fell dead in an in-
stant with his knife clenched in his hand.
This occurrence was the more lamentable,
that Bray was sixty-three years of age, and
had been one of Jackson's soldiers at the
battle of New Orleans. On the morning
of the 18 th, an election was ordered by
Gen. Kearney to fill the vacancy occasioned
by the resignation of Lieutenant-colonel
Ruff, which resulted in the choice of Capt.
Congreve Jackson over Major William
Gilpin, by a majority of one hundred and
eighiy-three votes. Capt. Jackson's place
was supplied by the election of H. II.
Hughes to fill the vacancy ; the same who
commanded as Major in Gentiy's Missouri
Regiment of volunteers, at the battle of
Okechubee in Florida in 1837. • He was
chosen from the ranks.

During this day a squadron of two com-
panies, [Maldo's and Stephenson's] under
command of Major Gilpin, was dispatched
to the little town of Abiquiu, on the Rio
de Ghana, lo keep the Indians in check in
that part of the territory, and also a de-
lachment of three companies, (Parsons',
Reid's and Hughes',) under Lieutenant-
colonel Jackson, was ordered to proceed to
the town of Ceballeta, on the Rio Puerco,
about one hundred and twenty miles south-
westerly from the capital, for a like pur-
pose. These detachments were to remain

at their respective posts until Col. Doni-
phan tcok up the line of march for Chihua-
hua, when they were to rejoin him in that
expedition. This expedition was to com-
mence its march against the State and city
of Chihuahua, immediately upon the arri-
val of Col. Price's command at Santa Fev
in conformity to the following order, viz:
General Orders No/30, Sec. 2.

"When all 'the companies of Col. Price's
re»iinent shall have reached here, Col.
Doniphan will proceed with his regiment to
Chihu; hua, and report to Brigadier-general
Wool for duty. By order of Brig. Gen.
S. W. Kearney.

[Signed,] H. S. Turner,

Capt. A. A. A. Gen."

It was not even doubted for a moment,
by the most incredulous, that Gen. Wool's
division would have taken possession of
Chihuahua long before Col. Doniphan
could possibly reach that place, and the lat-
ter did not at first so much as anticipate
the honor of co-operating with the general
in the reduction of the strong hold of
the Northern Provinces, and former-
ly the Head Quarters of the Cap-
tains-General OF THE VICE REGAL GOV-
ERNMENT of New Spain. For it was
well known throughout the United States,
as well as in the "Army of the West," that
Chihuahua was the unqualified destination
of Gen. Wool's Army.

On the 20th, a deputation of Eutaws, or
more properly Yntas, was brought in by
TV! aj. Gilpin, to hold a council with the gen-
eral, who made a speech to them through
his interpreter, and gave them much good
advice. On their part they promised to be
peaceable, orderly, to respect the lives and
property of the Mexicans, and to be obedi-
ent to the laws of the United States which
were now extended to the territory of New
Mexico. The general made them some
trifling presents, which, however, were es-
teemed of great value among them, and they
departed apparently well satisfied.

The same day an express arrived at the
capital from Col. Price, informing the gen-
eral that he was short of provisions, and
asking fresh supplies. He was promptly
furnished. This was the first, and only
reliable information we had received of the
colonel and his forces, since they left Fort
Leavenworth. They were then at the
Cimarron springs, nearly three hundred
miles from Santa Fe, and were expected to
arrive in fifteen or twenty days. By this

APACHE CHIEF.

51

express information was also brought, that
W. P. Hall, a private, volunteer soldier,
was elected to Congress, from one of the
districts in Missouri, by a large majority.
Hall, Lucas, and myself, were in one of the
departments of the governor's house trans-
cribing the new Constitution and laws of
the territory, when Col. Doniphan entered
bringing the intelligence. Hall was not
mov^d or elated, but behaved very calmly.
It is especially creditable to Col. Doniphan,
that he should have been the first to an-
nounce to Mr. Hall the news of his suc-
cess, when the latter and Col. Doniphan
were strongly opposed in politics, and had
often met each other on the stump or ros-
trum during a heated political contest. But
such is the magnanimous character of Col.
Doniphan.

September 23d, the chief of one branch
of the Apaches, with about thirty of his
tribe, came to hold a "grand council" with
the Governor-general. The general made
a long speech to them through an interpre-
ter, encouraging them to industry, and
peaceful pursuits, and particularly to the
cultivation of the soil, as the surest and
best mode of procuring an honorable sub-
sistence ; "that they must desist from all
robberies, and the committing of all crimes
against the laws of the territory; that if they
did not he would send his soldiers amongst
them and destroy them from the earth ; but
if they would be peaceable towards their
whits brethren he would protect and defend
them as he would the New Mexicans, and
make them all brothers to the white people,
and citizens of the same republic, and
children of the same father, the President,
at ^ ashington city."

To all these things the venerable Sachem
replied in a spirit worthy his tribe, setting
forth the wishes of his people in a strain
of bold, commanding eloquence, which has
ever characterized the aboriginal orator.
He said : "Faiher, you give good advice for
m.3 and my people ; but I am now old, and
unable to work, and my tribe are unaccus-
tomed to cultivating the soil for subsist-
ence. The Apiches are poor ; they have
no clothes to protect them from the cold,
and the game is fast disappearing from their
hunting grounds. You must, therefore, if
you wish us to be peaceable, speak a good
word to the Comanches, the Yutas, the
Navajos and the Arapahoes, our enemies,
that they will allow us to kill buffalo on
the great plains. You are rich — you have

a great nation to feed and clothe you — I am
poor, and have to crawl on my belly, like
a cat, to shoot deer and buffalo for my peo-
ple. I am not a bad man ; I do not rob
and steal ; I speak truth. The Great
Spirit gave me an honest heart, and a
straight tongue. I have not two tongues
that I should speak forked. .

" My skin is red, my head sun-burnt, my
eyes are dim with age, and I am a poor In-
dian, a dog, yet I am not guilty. There
is no £uilt there, (putting his hand on his
breast,) no ! I can look you in the face like
a man. In the morning of my days my
muscles were strong ; my arm was stout ;
my eye was bright; my mind was clear:
but now I am weak, shriveled up with age,
yet my heart is big, my tongue is straight.
I will take your counsel because I am weak
and you are strong."

The general then gave them some blan-
kets, butcher-knives, beads, mirrors, and
other presents for their squaws, and they
departed under the promise that they would
be good and faithful citizens of the Uni-
ted Slates.

On the 25th Gen. Kearney with a very
inadequate force for such an enterprise, set
out from the capital for the distant shores
of the Pacific, leaving Col. Doniphan in
command of all the forces in New Mexico.
The colonel was now actively employed in
pushing forward preparations for his con-
templated descent upon Chihuahua. Sup-
plies were being procured for the men.
Every soldier endeavored to- mount him-
self upon a safe and durable animal, for the
march was known to be long and perilous,
passing through desert tracts of country.
Wagons, for the transportation of baggage
and provisions, were speedily being re-
paired. Harness and teams were put in
readiness for the draught. It was the colo-
nel's intention to begin his great march as
soon as Col. Price should arrive at Santa
Fe with his troops, and succeed him in
the command at that place.

The author may perhaps be pardoned
for adding, at the close of this chapter, a
few brief remarks in commendation of the
United States' troops, which will show the
strong moral influence as well as the na-
tionality of our republican institutions. He
has observed his comrades in arms, after
performing the severest toils during a long
and fatiguing march of nine hundred miles,
bearing with fortitude the burden and heal
of the day, sometimes half faint of thirsl

52

DONIPHAN'S EXPEDITION.

and hunger, subsisting the greater part of
the time upon half rations, refuse to pluck
the ears of com that grew thickly and invit-
ingly around them. This exhibits a degree
of moral firmness and a regard for the
rights of property which is truly character-
istic of the American people, is worthy of
the highest praise, and is doubtless one of
the happy results of our benign institutions.
There was a national feeling in the army
of the west. Every soldier felt that he
was a freeman ; that he was a citizen of
the model republic ; and that he ought to
look upon the disgrace of American arms
as individual dishonor. Hence their high
moral sense and conscious superiority over
the Mexican people. As the American
soldier walked in the streets of the capital,
and met a group of Mexican ladies and
gentlemen going to the plaza with market-
ables, or in more gaudy attire passing up
the walks to the Catholic churches, he paid
them the same complimentary marks of
courtesy and civility, with which he had
been accustomed to greet his own fairer
country-women and men in the streets of
St. Louis, Cincinnati, New York or Phila-
delphia. This honorable feeling* was never
once forgotten or lost sight of by the citi-
zen soldier.

CHAPTER VII.

Reinforcements — Organization of the Force —
The march begun — Mormon Battalion — Der.lh
of Captain Allen — Another Estampeda — Col.
Price's arrival at Santa Fe — Col. Daugherty's
regiment — Disposition of the forces in New Mexi-
co— Express from California — Preparations for
the Chihuahua Expedition.

In the previous chapters it has been
briefly related how the war between the
United States and Mexico took its origin,
and in what manner the President proposed
to conduct the war, invading the latter coun-
try at several distinct points. It has also
been shown how the Western Expedition
was fitted out and dispatched across the
great solitudes which intervene between
Fort Leavenworth and Santa Fe ; by what
means the men were able to subsist them-

* This remark is intended to apply to the conduct
of the men gf !crally. 'ndividual instances of bad
conduct may have been witnessed.

selves upon the plains ; and how, for great-
er convenience, the marches were conduct-
ed by separate companies, squadrons, and
battalions. Finally, it has been related how
the New Mexicans surrendered the capital
into the hands of the Americans without
resistance or bloodshed.

Lest the forces already dispatched under
command of Gen. Kearney might not be
able to accomplish the purposes of the ex-
pedition, or even to sustain themselves
against the overwhelming numbers the ene-
my could bring into the field, it was deem-
ed advisable by the President to send out
a strong reinforcement. Sterling Price, a
member of Congress from Missouri at the
time, having resigned his membership early
in the summer of 1846, and applied to
President Polk, was appointed to the con-
duct of this new force. This reinforce-
ment Avas to consist of one full mounted
regiment, one mounted extra battalion, and
one extra battalion of Mormon infantry,
the whole to be filled up of volunteers.

After some delay the companies required
rendezvoused at Fort Leavenworth, and
were mustered into the service about the
first of August. The companies from
Boone, Benton, Carroll, Chariton, Lynn,
Livingston, Monroe, Randolph, St. Gene-
vieve and St. Louis counties, respectively
under command of Captains McMillan,
Hollaway, Williams, Holley, Barbee, Slack,
Giddings, H. Jackson, Horine and Dent,
composed the 2d regiment. Notwith-
standing the President had designated
Sterling Price as a suitable man to com-
mand the 2d regiment, the men thought he
ought to be chosen by their free suffrages,
or some other man in his stead. Accord-
ingly they proceeded to hold an election
that they might choose a commander. —
Sterling Price obtained the command. D.
D. Mitchell was chosen lieutenant-colonel,
and Capt. Edmondson, major. The ap-
pointment of R. Walker to be adjutant,
and Stewart, sergeant-major, Dr. May,
surgeon, and A. Wilson, sutler, completed
the organization of the 2d regiment.

In the separate battalion, which was
composed of the companies from the coun-
ties of Marion, Polk, Platte and Ray, res-
pectively under command of Captains
Smith, Robinson, Morin and Hendley,
Willock was chosen lieutenant-colonel. — ►
Thus the strength of Col. Price's com-
mand was about twelve hundred men. — >
Besides this cavalry frrce, he had a consid-

MORMON BATTALION.

53

erable number of heavy pieces of artillery,
and artillery men to manage them, com-
manded by officers of the regular service,
and a great number of baggage and pro-
vision wagons. These trains of wagons,
used to transport the baggage and provisions
of the men, generally set out in advance of
the army, because, being heavily loaded,
they could not travel as fast as the cavalry,
and that being wanted in the army, at any
time it is easier for them to come to a halt,
than to make a forced march, and each
wagon having a driver well armed, and
each train of thirty or more wagons a cap-
tain of the teamsters, they did not need to
be protected by any other guard against the
Indians, but went as fast as it pleased them,
and when attacked by these barbarians,
they presently converted the wagons into
a coral or breastwork, so as to defend them-
selves from harm ; except the baggage
wagons, which traveled with the army
when ihey could keep pace along with it.
With this force, thus furnished, Col. Price
set out for Santa Fe,* marching by sepa-
rate detachments over the plains, as Gen.
Kearney and Col. Doniphan had ordered
their captains to do before, about the mid-
dle of August.

Also about this period, Capt. Allen of
the 1st Dragoons, acting under instructions
from the War Department, proceeded to
the Council Bluffs, where the Mormons
had been collecting for several months
with the view to make a settlement, and
there raised a body of five hundred Mor-
mons, all volunteer infantry. This body
of troops also rendezvoused at Fort Leav-
enworth, and having been out-fitted, com-
menced it^ march, soon after the departure
of Col. Price, for the shores of the Pacific,
a distance of 1990 miles, where, having
served to the expiration of one year, they
were to be paid, discharged, and allowed to
found settlements and bring their families.
They were to proceed first to Santa Fe,
and thence to California, following the
route of Gen. Kearney.

This Mormon battalion consisted of
five companies, lettered x\, B, C, D, and
E, respectively, under captains Hunt,
Hunter, Brown, Higgins, and Davis, com-
manded by Lieut, colonel Alien; Dykes
being adjutant, and Glines being sergeant

* It was the original intention of Col. Price to
march his entire command to California by way of
Santa Fe, if Gen. Kearney were in a condition not
to need his services at the latter place.

major. It was attended by 27 women, for
laundresses, and was mustered into the ser-
vice on the 16th of July. Lieutenant"
colonel Allen, having delayed at the fort
a short time after the companies began
the march, to forward some supplies, was
suddenly taken ill, and expired shortly af-
terward on the 23d of August.

Thus died Lieutenant-colonel Allen, of
the 1st Dragoons, in the midst of a career of
usefulness, under the favorite smiles of
fortune, beloved while living, and regretted
after death, by all who knew him, both
among the volunteer and regular troops. —
The Mormons were then conducted to
Santa Fe by Lieutenant Smith, of the 1st
Dragoons.

The manner in which the advance of the
Western Army immediately under Gen.
Kearney and Col. Doniphan conducted its
marches, and the great success which atten-
ded them, has been narrated in a previous
chapter. Therefore, as this second force
traveled over the same route, and was
from the nature of the country necessitated
to perform nearly the same daily marches,
that it might obtain fuel, water and forage
(or grass, which is the only forage the
plains can supply), and also as the man-
agement which was necessary to be used
for the rapid progress of the reinforcing
army was similar to that which had been
adopted by the preceding forces, and the
scenes and incidents occurring on this
campaign, as well as the leading features of
the country passed over, being such as have
already been described, it is not deemed
necessary to recapitulate them.

They were not molested at any time, or
put to any serious inconvenience by the
Indians who dwell upon the plains. Many
horses died or failed during the march.
Those which failed, being abandoned by
their owners, were soon killed and de-
voured by the gangs of wolves which daily
followed the army.

These barbarous tribes of Indians seldom
have the courage or daring to oppose the
march of any considerable number of men, .
but attack with the greatest fury small par-
ties of men who chance to fall in their
way, and when they have captured them
they never suffer them to escape, but uni-
formly torture and put them to death in
the most cruel manner. Col. Price's for-
ces feeling entirely secure against these
hordes by reason of their numbers, placed
out io picket guards as the other command

54

DONIPHAN'S EXPEDITION.

had done, and sometimes had no sentinels
about the camps at night. At a later pe-
riod, however, the Indians infested the
Santa Fe road with more boldness, and
in several instances succeeded in killing
Americans, and capturing provision wag-
ons, and large droves of mules, oxen, and
other stock belonging to the United States'
government.

The troops composing this command,
when they arrived at the crossing of the
Arkansas, took the route by the Cimarron
river, except two or three companies which
proceeded, by way of Fort Bent and the
.Raton Pass to Santa Fe. The Cimarron
route is perhaps one hundred miles the
shorter way, but is not so well supplied
with water or forage as the other. While
the army lay encamped somewhere on
the Arkansas, a general eslampeda occurred
among the horses. Wildly and madly
they plunged over the plain, near a thou-
sand head, stung and galled by the lariats
and iron pickets which they dragged after
them. After great labor the majority of
them Avere recovered; the rest either went
wild on the prairies, or were captured by
the Comanches, who are excellent in horse-
manship.

From the Cimarron Springs Col. Price
sent forward an express to Santa Fe, rep-
resenting to Gen. Kearney that his com-
mand was without supplies, and that his
marches must of necessity be slow, un-
less he could furnish him. This express
reached Santa Fe on the 20th of Septem-
ber, and provisions were forthwith dis-
patched upon the road to meet him. Mean-
while the colonel advanced upon the march
as vigorously as the condition of his men
and animals would permit. Thompson and
Campbell, contractors to supply the army
with beef, were on the road with fourteen
hundred beef-cattle, but were too far behind
to be of any service in the present exi-
gency.

Col. Price, in a very feeble state of
health, arrived at the capital in company
with a few of his staff officers on the 28th
of September, three days after Gen. Kear-
ney's departure for California. The dif-
ferent detachments and companies of his
command continued to conic in almost
daily. The greater part of them, howev-
er, together With the Mormon battalion,
arrived on the 9th, 10th, 11th, and 12th
days of October. They quartered out on
the ground as Col. Doniphan's men were

doing, there being no more houses in San-
ta Fe than barely enough to shelter the
inhabitants from the inclement weather.

The capital was now literally alive with
artillery, baggage wagons, commissary
teams, beef-cattle and a promiscuous throng
of American soldiers, traders, visitors,
stragglers, trappers, amateurs, mountain-
eers, Mexicans, Pueblo Indians, women
and children; numbering perhaps not less
than fourteen thousand souls. The aggre-
gate effective force of the American Army
in New Mexico, at this time, was about
three thousand, five hundred men.

Col. Price's command, during its long
and toilsome march to Santa Fe, which
was completed in about fifty-three days, in
mid-summer, was attended with most sin-
gular good fortune; having lost only three
soldiers on the way, one by accident, the
other two by sickness.*

About the 10th of August another requi-
sition was made upon the Governor of
Missouri for one thousand additional vol-
unteers, to join Gen. Kearney in New
Mexico. This new force, the 3rd regi-
ment of Missouri volunteers, was to con-
sist entirely of infantry, and was to ren-
dezvous also at Fort Leavenworth, where
it was to be fitted out and be ready to
march close in rear of Col. Price's com
mand. In an incredibly short space of
time, the requisite number of troops was
raised and company officers chosen.-—
Forthwith they repaired to the fort and
reported for service. Major Daugherly,
of Clay county, was elected to the com-
mand of this regiment, and while actively
engaged in hastening preparations for the
arduous march over the plains, he received
orders from the President requiring him
to desist from the enterprise and disband
his force. This was accordingly done.
The men, disappointed, returned to their
homes. Thus, those brave men, who had
generously volunteered to serve the coun-
try on foot, in a cavalry expedition, were
denied a share in the toils and honors of
the campaign.

There being more troops in the capital,
after the arrival of the recruits under the
command of Col. Price, than were neces-
sary to preserve order and tranquillity in
the city, Col. Doniphan disposed of them
in this manner:— -The three remaining
companies of the 1st regiment were sent

* These were Blount and Willhoit. They were
both interred at Fort Marcy.

EXPRESS FROM CALIFORNIA.

55

out to the grazing encampment, which, for
better pasturage had been moved from Ga-
iisteo to the mountains or dividing hills be-
tween the river Pecos and the Del Norte,
about fifty miles from Santa Fe, and twenty
from San Miguel. On this table-land the
grass was very fine and nourishing, and
there was a beautiful lake of fresh water
near the camp-ground, abundantly sufficient
for both men and horses. This glassy lake
was situated in the edge of a glade several
hundred yards wide, ami skirled by the
handsomest groves of pines and cedars, ever
verdant; while the tall "grama" resem-
bling a rich meadow, carpeted its margin,
as well as covered the beautiful succession
of hills and dales which lay spread out to
view. In this truly romantic spot of coun-
•try, the animals were soon refitted for ser-
vice. A squadron of two companies under
Major Edmondson was ordered to relieve
Lieutenant-colonel Jackson at Cebolleta,
and a detachment was sent to relieve Ma-
jor Gilpin at Abiquiu ; Jackson aud Gilpin
were severally to await at these places fur-
ther orders. Also, one or two companies
were sent back to forage or graze on the
Mora, near the Santa Clara springs, to pre-
vent the Mexicans and Indians driving off
the mules and beef-cattle belonging to the
army, that were grazing there. The re-
mainder of the cavalry, together with all
me artillery, was retained at Santa Fe.

Things being in this posture, on the 11th
an express reached Santa Fe from Califor-
nia, by the hands of Fitzpatrick, the old
mountaineer and pilot to Gen. Kearney.
This express was from Commodore Stock-
ton and Lieutenant-colonel Fremont. It
met Gen. Kearney on his road to Califor-
nia, about one hundred and fifty miles from
Santa Fe, by the hand of Lieut. Kit Car-
son, one of Lieutenant-colonel Fremont's
men direct from Monterey. The express
brought this intelligence : " The Pacific
Squadron, Commodore Stockton, has ta-
ken possession of California, and the Ame-
rican Flag is now proudly streaming above
the walls of Monterey, the capital of the
country. Lieutenant-colonel Fremont was
on the Rio Sacramento when the squadron
arrived off the coast, and was not present
when the capital surrendered. Five men-
of-war were anchored in the bay when the
express left Monterey. The inhabitants

submitted without a struggle. Lieutenant-
colonel Fremont had probably been ap-
pointed temporary governor of California."
Kit Carson returned to California as pilot
to Gen. Kearney, while Fitzpatrick, his
former guide, was entrusted with the bear-
ing of the dispatches to Fort Leavenworth,
whence they were transmitted to Wash-
ington.

A great number of provision wagons
was now coming in, and filling up the
streets of the city. The commissary and
quartermaster departments were extremely
busy in receiving and storing provisions,
and taking care of government stock. At
the head of these departments were Major
Swords and Captain McKissack. There
were also a great number of assistant com-
missaries and quartermasters,* and a tribe
of clerks. Every exertion was now being
used to provide a good outfit for Col. Doni-
phan's intended expedition against Chihua-
hua, which was looked upon as being both
an arduous and a hazardous enterprise.
The battalion of Mormons, to the future
conduct of which Capt. Cooke of the 1st
dragoons had been appointed, were waiting
for a new outfit for transportation across
the mountains to the Californias. Also
Capt. Hudson, of St. Louis, having given
up his command of the Laclede Rangers,
to his 1st lieutenant, Elliot, and acting un-
der the permission of Gen. Kearney, had
raised a new company of volunteers, one
hundred strong, from the several corps at
Santa Fe, designed for the California ser-
vice. This company, denominated the
California Rangers,t must also be provided
with means of transportation over the
mountains. Besides this pressing current
of business, large deputations of Indians,
headed by their respective chiefs, were
constantly coming in to hold a " Big Talk"
or " Grand Council" with Col. Doniphan,
who as yet was looked upon as command-
er of all the forces in New Mexico, and
governor of the Department. Such then
at this time was the posture of affairs in
Santa Fe.

* Lieutenants Pope Gordon and James Lea weie
appointed assistant commissary and quartermaster to
the 1st regiment — both active, energetic men.

+ This company was dissolved l>y Col. Doniphan
as soon as he learned th»t California was in the
hands of the Americans.

56

DONIPHAN'S EXPEDITION.

CHAPTER VIII.

Donithan ordered against the Navajos — Plan of
the March — Condition of the Troops — They
take with them neither Baggage, Provision Wag-
ons, nor Tents — Arrival at Alburquerque — A
Squadron sent to Valverde — Death of Adjutant
Butler — War Dance at Isleta — Express from
tht; Merchants — Valverde.

The express which reached Santa Fe
on the 1 1th day of October, as already
noticed, brought a communication from
Gen. Kearney to Col. Doniphan, instruct-
ing him to delay for a time his contempla-
ted movement upon Chihuahua, and de-
siring him to proceed with his regiment
forthwith into the country inhabited by the
Navajos, a large and powerful tribe of
semi-civilized Indians, and chastise them
for the depredations they have recently
committed on the western frontiers of New
Mexico, as also for having refused to come
in to the capital, when sent for, to offer
submission to the conqueror and acknow-
ledge his government. This is a copy of
the order:

H>:Al)Q.UAftTEIlS AllMT OF THE West, ")

Camp on the Rio del Norte near La Joya, s
Oct. 2, 1846. 3

I. As the chiefs of the Navajos have been invited
to Santa Fe' by the commanding general, for the pur-
pose cf holding a council, and making a peace be-
tween them and the inhabitants of New Mexico,
(now forming a part and under the protection of the
United States,) and as they have promised to come,
but have failed doing so, and instead thereof con-
tinue killing the people and committing depredations
upon their property! it becomes necessary to send a
military expedition into the country of these Indians,
to secure a peace and better conduct from them iri
future.

II. For the reasons set forth in the foregoing par-
agraph, Col. Doniphan, of the 1st regiment Missouri
mounted volunteers, previous to complying with par-
agraph II. of orders No. 36, dated September 23d,
will march with his regiment into the Navajo coun-.
try. He will cause all the prisoners, and all the
property they hold, which may have been stolen from
the inhabitants of the territory of New Mexico, to
be given up — and he will require of them such se-
curity for their future good conduct, as he may
think ample and sufficient, by taking hostages or oth-
erwise.

III. After Col. Doniphan has fully complied with
these instructions, he will proceed with his regiment
to report to Brigadier-general Wool, as directed in
ordci No. 30. By order of Brigadier-general

S. W. KEARNEY.
H. S. Turner Capt. A. A. A. Gen.

This order was founded upon the fact
that the New Mexicans represented to
Gen. Kearney as he passed near Soccorro

on his route to California, " that a parly of
Navajo Indians had recently crossed the
mountains and made a sudden irruption
into the settlements, (which. Gen. Kearney
had promised to protect,) killing seven or
eight men, taking as many more women
and children captives, and driving off ten
thousand head of sheep, cattle and mules."

As the winter was now fast approaching,
and the mountains would soon be impassa-
able by reason of the great quantity of
snowr which falls in that elevated region
early in the season, and also on account of
the great difficulty of procuring forage for
horses and mules at such a time, CoL
Doniphan determined to execute the order
with all possible expedition. Accordingly,
having dispatched directions to Major Gil-
pin at Abiquiu, and Lieutenant-colonel
Jackson at Cebolleta, thence to penetrate
into the heart of the Navajo district by
different routes through the mountains,
chastising the Navajos wherever they ap-
peared hostile, and taking their chiefs as
hostages for their future good behavior
wdterever they were disposed to be peace-
able, at last forming a junction of their
forces at a noted place called the Ojo Oso
or Bear Spring, he himself set out, taking
with him the three companies he had called
in from the Grazing Encampment near
San Miguel, intending to take a medium
course through the hills and sierras, having
Gilpin on his right, and Jackson on his left,
and thus to unite with them at the Bear
Spring ; Col. Price being left in command
of the entire force at Santa Fe and the
grazing grounds.

The three companies from the grazing
grounds near San Miguel, having collected
their stock together, commenced the march
on the 26th of October, proceeded by way
of Galisteo and Del Gardo to Santo Do-
mingo, where Col. Doniphan and staff,
with his baggage and provision wagons,
were in wait for them. Four months' pay
was now due the soldiers, and many of
them would soon be destitute of comfort-
able clothing, yet Col. Doniphan had
neither a military chest, nor a paymaster,
nor a dollar of government funds to silence
the just complaints, or satisfy the reason-
able wants, of his men. They looked up-
on it as a hardship, and with reason, that
they were ordered against the Indians,
without pay, and with little else than their
summer clothing to protect them from the
cold, in a country where they would be

DONIPHAN'S MARCH.

57

compelled to climb over the* tallest moun-
tains, and often encamp in the midst of
snow, and ice, and rocks, and where it was
impossible to procure either wood for fire,
water to drink, or forage for horses and
mules.

Now, beside these difficulties, the nature
of the country is such, that it is impracti-
cable for artillery, baggage or provision
wagons, or even for the lightest carriages ;
so steep and abrupt are the rocks, hills, and
mountains. Only pack mules and sump-
ter horses can be used with advantage. —
For this reason Major Gilpin sent all his
baggage wagons back from Abiquiu into
the Del Norte valley ; Lieutenant-colonel
Jackson did the same thing from Cebolleta ;
and Colonel Doniphan the same. They
also threw away their tents, that being light
armed and unembarrassed, they might make
their marches with greater expedition
amongst the rocks, ravines and steeps of
the mountains. Moreover, the soldiers
thought, as they had been previously or-
dered against Chihuahua, that some portion
of the troops which were idle at Santa Fe,
might have been sent on this service ; that
after having spent three or four months in
pursuit of the Indians, amongst the gorges,
and chasms, and fastnesses of the Cordille-
ras, they would then be marched off on the
Chihuahua expedition, without being allow-
ed one day to recuperate their wasted en-
ergies, or to rest their jaded animals; and
that so much delay would give Gen. Wool
time to anticipate them in his movement
upon Chihuahua, thereby robbing them of
their share of the honor; or, if it did not,
that it would give the Mexicans ample time
to learn of our intentions, and make prepa-
rations to defend themselves, and the city
of Chihuahua to the best advantage, ren-
dering it hazardous in the extreme for so
small a force to venture thither, as Colonel
Doniphan had at his command. This latter
surmise proved true.

The detachment now, with Col. Doni-
phan, marched on the 30th of October down
the country, keeping the river Del Norte
on the right, and the mountains and craggy
hdls on the left, and arriving about sunset
at the village Sandia, the men staid there
during the night, encamping on the ground
without much system, but wherever each
soldier preferred to lie ; for now there was
no danger, and the men were tired of march-
ings, and watchings, and mounting guard.
That night much rain fell, and the men en-

dured it all ; for by this time, few of them
had any tents, and some of those who had,
did not take pains to pitch them. It was
here that a Mexican came into camp, and
reported " that Gen. Wool had taken pos-
session of Chihuahua with 6.000 men, and
much heavy artillery, and that the Mexi-
cans made but a feeble resistance." This
did not prove true.

The next, day the march was continued
down the river, the men encamping on a
" brazo," during the night. There was
now plenty of provisions in the camp for
the soldiers ; but wood was so scarce that
it was a difficult task lor them to prepare
anything to eat at supper. Some of them
collected together a few Utile bunches of
dry brush, while others as they could, pick-
ed up withered grass and weeds, and dry
ordure from the cattle, and with these made
a fire, and broiled their meat, and boiled
their coffee. About this time an election
was ordered in the companies, that they
might each make choice of an additional
second lieutenant, with the same rank and
pay of the other lieutenants ; so that there
were now four commissioned officers to
each company ; one captain and three lieu-
tenants. This order was made agreeably
to an arrangement of the War Department,
by which companies of one hundred men,
or more, were entitled to four commissioned
officers.

Eaily the next day the detachment arriv-
ed at the town of Alburquerque, where such
of the men as were able, and desired it,
purchased wine, and beer, and mezcal,
which is made of the maguey, and of which
the Mexicans are very fond ; also bread,
fresh meat, eggs and poultry. Lieutenant
Noble, with about thirty of the 1st dra-
goons, was at this place, recruiting the con-
dition of his men and animals, some of the
former being sick. Here the colonel cross-
ed the river, his men following, and after
them the provision and baggage trains.—
The river here is broad and shallow, nor
being above the hubs of the wagons; the
bottom is so sandy, however, that if a wag-
on stops but a kxv minutes in the current.
it will presently be buried in the water and
sand. On this account, many of the teams
coming to a halt that they might drink of
the cold water, some of the wagons had to
be drawn out by hand, the men wading into
the Water, rolling at the wheels, and pulling
by ropes attached to the standards. This
heavy work completed, the march was re-

.58

DONIPHAN'S EXPEDITION.

turned, continuing down on the west bank
of the river. That night the men encamp-
ed in a level bottom, where there was a
moderate supply of forage, but no kind of
fuel. Some of the men collected tufts of
dry grass and weeds together, and setting
tire to them, held their meat in the blaze
until it was partially roasted. Thus they
prepared their suppers.

It was here that the colonel received in-
formation from the caravan or merchant
trains, which had advanced as far down the
valley of the Del Norte as the ruins of Val-
verde, for the purpose of grazing their
mules and other animals to better advan-
tage, that they apprehended an attack from
the Mexicans almost daily, who were said
to be advancing, seven hundred strong, with
the view of plundering the merchant wag-
ons. In this perplexity, Col. Doniphan,
that he might accomplish all his purposes,
and fail in none, dispatched the three com-
panies which he had with him, to protect
the traders and their merchandize. Of this
squadron Capt. Walton had the command,
ranking the other two captains, Moss and
Rodgers. Capt. Burgwin, (having been
sent back by Gen. Kearney, with about
two hundred men,) being previously ap-
prized of the critical situation of the mer-
chants, had already gone to afford them
succor. Thus in a short time there were
five hundred mounted men, besides three
hundred merchants and teamsters at Val-
verde, ready to oppose any hostile move-
ment the enemy might choose to make. —
The merchants had also eorraled their wag-
ons in such a manner ' as to receive troops
within, and afford them shelter against an
enemy, so that the besieged could light with
as much security as though they were in a
fortress.

As to Col. Doniphan, he took his staff,
(that part of it which happened to be with
him) and attended by three or four other
men, proceeded with great haste to Cuvar-
ro, not far from the river Pucrco, making
great marches and encamping on the ground
wherever nightfall chanced to overtake him.
This was on the 2d day of November.

At Cuvarro the colonel fell in with a few
•of Lieutenant-colonel Jackson's men, most
of whom, being sick, were* left behind, at-
tended by their friends, that they might re-
cover, and not be left without aid in that
wild country. Of those who were sick a
great number died, their diseases being such
that the physicians could not relieve them.

These diseases were typhoid fever, rheu-
matism, blumy, and other complaints pro-
duced by intense cold and great exposure.
The patients became entirely helpless, and
frequently lost the use of their legs. So
they died. Others of them surviving for a
time, were conveyed back to Soccorro and
Alburquerque, where some of them also
died, and others recovered.

It was at Cuvarro that Adjutant G. W.
Butler, of Col. Doniphan's staff, a brave
and gallant man, beloved by all the regi-
ment, was seized with a violent distemper,
induced by cold, and died, much lamented,
on the 26th of November. He was buried,
(and also the rest of the dead, for others
died near the same time,) with as much
honor as could be shown to brave and gal-
lant men in that destitute country ; for it
was not possible to procure coffins for the
dead as in the United States, there being
no timber there. Their bodies were wrapt
in blankets, deposited in the grave, the vault
being covered by broad rocks to prevent
the wolves disturbing the dead, and then a
certain number of rounds being fired over
the grave, and the last one into it, the earth
was heaved in and the "last resting place"
completed in the usual manner. Thus
were interred those who died in the service
of their country.

Col. Doniphan advanced vigorously into
the mountains, as we shall presently notice,
attended by only a few men.

At the same time Col. Doniphan depart-
ed to the Navajo district, the detachment
under command of Capt. Walton, with the
baggage train, began the march towards
Valvcrde, on the 2d day of November ;
passing through many ranchos on the river,
and also the villages, Pajarittoand Pndillas,
and the Pueblo of Isleia, near which the
soldiers encamped that night. The inhab-
itants of these places did not molest our
men, nor manifest any hostility towards
them, but sold them such things to eat as
they could spare, and whatever commodi-
ties the soldiers desired to purchase. Now
(luring the night there were a great shout-
ing and yelling, and the firing of guns and
ringing of bells, and also singing and danc-
ing among the Pueblos of Isleta. Certain
of the soldiers, thinking perhaps an attack
was meditated by these people on our camp
during the night, volunteered to go and learn
what might be the occasion of so much
nois*e and tumult. When they arrived
there, they beheld various lights about the

WAK DANCE— DEATH OF LIEUT. SHELL.

59

streets and squares, and groups of men and
maidens, fantastically dressed and tattooed,
dancing and singing with great merriment.
On approaching a little nearer, they beheld
on the tops of three tall lances or javelins,
the scalps of three Navajo warriors, the
long, straight, black hair sweeping in the
wind. The Pueblos were celebrating a
war dance. The men, inquiring how these
• scalps were obtained, received this account
from the Pueblos :

"About three days ago a party of Nava-
jos, between whom and us there are con-
tinual wars, descended from the mountains
and seized one of our women, five of our
children, and a great number of sheep and
cattle, and mules, and having killed eight
Mexicans and Pueblos, went off with their
booty. These facts being reported to Capt.
Burgwin, while on his way to Valverde,
Lieut. Grier with about sixty men was de-
tached to go in pursuit of this marauding
party of Navajos, themselves numbering
seventy. Lieut. Grier having pursued them
about two days, (most of his men however
having given over the pursuit on account of
dieir horses failing,) came up with them in
a canon of the mountains, charged upon
them, killing and scalping three of them,
rescuing the captives, and recovering the
stock." Lieut. Grier had one of his men
slightly wounded, aud an arrow lodged in
his saddle near his thigh. However, he
made good his retreat. It was thus the
Pueblos of Isleta obtained the trophies
which they were proudly displaying at the
war-dance. This detachment now moving
slowly down the river, completed in five
days' march about thirty-five miles, passing
through the villages Sineca, Lunaz, Chavez,
and Jarrales. Encamping near the latter
place, the inhabitants furnished wood for
the soldiers and various articles of food,
such as chickens, bread, cheese, molasses,
melons, meal and flour, at a moderate price.
That night some of the men witnessed the
nuptial ceremonies of the Alcalde's daugh-
ter. She was married to a wealthy " ran-
chero" by the " cura" of the place.

From thence the march was continued
through Belen and Sabinaz to the river Pu-
erco, making only about twenty-five miles
in three days. Here the detachment met
Capt. Burgwin's command returning to
Alburquerque, there being no danger of an
attack on the merchant wagons. As it was
now cold and disagreeable, the soldiers
staid in camp three days. The next day

they. marched twelve miles over deep sand
drifts and dry rocky creeks, and stopped
for the night in a cottonwood grove, a plea-
sant retreat, where they staid three more
days. From this place, on the 21st of No-
vember, Capt. Rodgers' company returned
to La Joya, on the east side of the river, to
bury Lieut. Snell, one of their officers, who
had died the previous day. This officer
was much esteemed by his men. Captain
Rodgers was also, at the same place, disa-
bled by the kick of a horse. So the com-
pany was now commanded by Lieut. Har-
rison. From thence in one day's march
they passed Soccorro and Huertaz, making
about twenty-two miles. These are the
last Mexican settlements on the west bank
of the river until you come to El Paso Del
Norte. The next day (23d) they marched
twelve miles, and encamped in a cotton-
wood forest, where there was grass, wood,
and water, intending" to spend one or two
days at that place.

About tattoo the soldiers were suddenly
aroused from their repose by the appear-
ance in camp of a friendly Mexican, who
had been dispatched thither by the mer-
chants, with a letter addressed to the " com-
mandante," requesting him to march with
all possible haste to their relief; that they
expected very soon to be attacked by a
strong Mexican force. Two Americans
came into camp next morning, and con-
firmed what the Mexican had said ; — there-
fore the volunteers began to clean up their
guns, adjust their flints, and see that their
cartridge boxes were well supplied; for
they now believed that an action would
soon take place A speedy march of fif-
teen miles was completed in less than half
the day, which brought them to the Green
valley, where the caravans had corralled
for defence. They encamped in a large
forest of cottonwood trees, on the west
bank of the river, near the ruins of Val-
verde. The pasturage was excellent in
the adjacent mountains. The exigency
for succor, however, did not prove as great
as was represented.

This being a favorable place from whence
to afford protection to the caravan of tra-
ders, and also a convenient spot to procure
pasturage for the animals, as well as a good
position to shelter the men from the wind
and violent snow storms, it was thought fit
to make it a permanent encampment. It
was also convenient to the water. There-
fore this place became the headquarters of

60

DONIPHAN'S EXPEDITION.

the commissary and quartermaster depart-
ments of the regiment, and the point from
which Col. Doniphan, when he should
collect his scattered forces together from
the Navajo country, was to invade the
state of Chihuahua. This was the 24th
of November.

Lest it should be supposed that the three
hundred men, who were detailed as a wag-
on guard to watch over and protect the
interest of the merchant caravan, were less
willing soldiers, or less desirous of serving
the country, than those who went against
the Navajos, let us consider the nature of
the service which they are required to per-
form. There is no one so ignorant that
he does not know it is more agreeable to
be actively employed in marching, than
confined in camps and placed on continual
guards and watchings; just as the bears
which run wild in the mountains enjoy
more liberty than those which are kep't in
chains or in cages. Besides, this section
of ihe army suffered much from cold, be-
ing stationed in an open valley on an ex-
posed spot of earth, poorly supplied with
tents, almost, destitute of comfortable cloth-
ing, and stinted in provisions. These
were brave men and good soldiers. They
were daily threatened by attacks from the
Apaches on the east and west, and by the
Mexicans on the south. Much vigilance
was therefore necessary.

The traders had formed a corral for de-
fence upon the intelligence obtained through
two spies whom they had caught on their
way from El Paso to Santa Fe, bearing
communications to the principal men in
the northern settlements. They repre-
sented "that seven hundred Mexicans were
on their way from El Paso with the view
to attack and rob the merchants, not know-
ing they were, protected by the military."
Two other Mexican spies or couriers were
soon after caught by them, having in their
possession a great many letters and other
communications from the priests and lead-
ing characters of New Mexico, directed to
the authorities of Chihuahua and Mexico,
excusing themselves for permitting New
Mexico to fall under the power of the
"Northern Yankees and Texans" and
accusing Col. Armijo of the most arrant
cowardice.

On the morning of the 27th the old
Mexican shepherd who had been employed
to take charge of the flock of sheep be-
longing to the detachment, was missing*

None knew whither he had gone. After
further inquiry, it was discovered that sev-
enteen government mules were also miss-
ing. It was now plain how matters stood.
He had driven them off the previous night
and appropriated them to his own "use
and benefit." Not long after it was ascer-
tained that, eight hundred and seventy-three
head of sheep, the only dependence the
detachment had for subsistence, had also
been driven off, but in a different direction
and by very different authors. Two men,
James Stewart and Robert. Speares, were
detailed to follow the trail of the sheep,
and discover the direction in which they
had been driven. These two young men,
carelessly went out without their arms or
any means of defence, not expecting to go
far before returning to camp. Striking the
trail, however, they pursued on with the
view to drive the sheep back to camp at
once. Proceeding about six miles towards
the mountains westward they came up
with the flock. Hereupon they were in-
stantly attacked by a small party of rene-
gade Navajos, and cruelly put to death.
One of them was pierced by thirteen ar-
rows and the other by nine ; after which
their heads were mashed and their bodies
bruised with rocks in a most shocking man-
ner. As these men did not reium, it was
not known by their companions in camp
what had become of them. At length
they were searched for, when their dead
bodies were found, brought into camp, and
decently buried. A detail of thirty-eight
men, commanded by Lieut. Sublette, was
sent in pursuit of the murderers. The pur-
suit having been prosecuted vigorously for
sixty or seventy miles into the rocky re-
cesses of the Sierra de los Mimbres, the
animals beginning to fail and the number
of the party thereby decreasing, and no
water having been found by the way, the
men were compelled to return without re-
covering the stock or chastising the authors
of the bloody deed. In the deep valleys
of this rugged range of mountains are ex-
tensive forests of pines, cedars and live-
oaks.

When there was nothing important in
camp to engage the attention of the sol-
diers, and the day was pleasant, they spent
their time in contests of wrestling, running
and jumping; also in jokes, songs and
speaking; or else in smoking, lounging,
sleeping, card-playing or reading, as the
humor might prompt them. Strict guards

LOSSES AT VAL VERDE.

61

were, however, kept about the camp day
and night, and also a detail was daily made
to drive the stock out into the mountains
for the purpose of grazing them. These
stock guards were always well armed, to
prevent attacks by the Apaches and Nava-
jos, who watch every opportunity of seiz-
ing upon whatever booty may chance to
be in their power. The traders, who had
a great number oF mules and oxen, used
the same method of subsisting them, send-
ing a part of their own men out each clay
as a stock guard.

About this time an English officer, or
rather embassador, made his appearance in
the camp of the merchants, bringing pro-
posals to them from the governor of Chi-
huahua to this effect : '; That if they would
first dismiss from their employ all their
American teamsters, and employ in their
stead, Mexicans, and then, upon their arri-
val at El Paso, where the customs for the
State of Chihuahua are received, pay a
duty of thirteen cents per pound on, their
importations, and such an internal or con-
sumption tariff as should be fixed by law,
they would be permitted to come into the
city of Chihuahua and allowed the advan-
tages of that market, free from molesta-
tion." So impatient to sell were some of
the merchants who had embarked largely
in the trade, and who were extremely
anxious to have the advantage of the first
market, that they were disposed to enter-
tain these overtures with some degree of
favor. Others, better acquainted with the
Mexican character, looked upon it as a ruse
or piece of management to get the mer-
chants into their power, and then they
could seize and confiscate their goods at
pleasure. The spoils could easily be di-
vided afterwards. This indeed was their
design.

Now while the great majority of the
traders were Americans, there were also
among them some English and Mexican
merchants who could embrace the gover-
nor's terms with safety. These were
anxious to reap the first fruits of the Chi-
huahua market. They therefore manifest-
ed symptoms of restlessness, and evinced
a disposition and even a determination to
go on in advance of the army which had
guarded them thus far from the depreda-
tions of the Indians. This movement
could not be tolerated. Lieut. Ogden with
twenty-four men, (which number was af-
terwards increased to fo ty-two,) was dis-

patched to Fray Christobal, at the upper
end of the Great Jornada del Muerto, with
instructions from Capt. Walton, the com-
manding officer, to permit no portion of
the caravan to pass that point until Col.
Doniphan should return from the Navajo
country. This order Avas promptly put
into execution by the lieutenant, notwith-
standing the efforts of the English and
Mexican merchants to elude his vigilance.

On the evening of the 5th, two soldiers,
inmates of the same tent, their names J. D.
Lard and B. W. Marsh, entered into a
quarrel as they stood about their camp fires.
At length the parties becoming somewhat
excited, and mutually dealing upon each
other an assortment of abusive epithets,
the latter drew out his pistol and shot the
former through the breast. Mr. Lard,
after several days, was removed to Soccor-
ro, where he survived but a short time.

This delachment, while it remained at
the Valverde camp-grounds, lost seventeen
mules, eight hundred and seventy-three
sheep, a great number of horses and cat-
tle, and six brave men, three of whom died
of cold and through distress of their situa-
tion, and three in the manner above re-
lated. The various detachments which
had been in the country of the Navajos ar-
rived in camp at Valverde about the 12th
of December.

CHAPTER IX.

Colonel Jackson's detachment — Don Chavez —
Another war Dance — Cebolieta — Jackson's Mis-
sion— Capt. Reid's Expedition — Navajo Dance —
IN'arbona — Capt. Reid's Letter — Return of the
Party — Habits of the Navajos — Their Wealth —
Horses stolen by the Navajos — Their recovery.

Lieutenant-colonel Jackson, with a
detachment of three companies, under
command of Capts. Reid, Parsons and
Hughes,* as already stated left Santa Fe
on the 18th of September, and proceeded
to Cebolieta, on the river Pnerco, to keep
the Indians in subordination in that part of
the State, and there to await further orders.
Their first march was from Santa Fe to

* Hughes was chosen captain after the detach-
ment arrived at Cebolieta, Lieut. De Courcy being
in comu and for the present

62

DONIPHAN'S EXPEDITION.

Del Gardo, more than twenty miles, where
they remained in camp two days, during
which time they repaired their wagons,
harness, saddle trappings, tents, clothes,
collected their stock together, packed up
their baggage, and did whatever else seem-
ed to demand their attention.

From thence, on the next day, all things
being made ready, and the soldiers having
taken (heir breakfast, they commenced the
march, and during this and four other days
completed nearly one hundred miles, arriv-
ing at the Laguna fork of the river Puerco.
This march led through Algodones, Berna-
lillo, Sandia, Alburquerque, where, cross-
ing the river, it was continued through Pa-
jarrito and other villages, thence striking
off westerly to the Puerco. On the morn-
ing of the 27th, about fifty Pueblo Indians,
with their arms in their hands, visited the
camp, and informed Lieutenant-colonel
Jackson that all the Pueblos from San Do-
mingo to Isleta, many hundred in number,
were on their way to Cebolleta to make
war upon the Navajcs in conjunction with
him, insisting that Gen. Kearney had grant-
ed them permission to retake their stolen
animals, and recover their people from cap-
tivity, great numbers of whom were in the
hands of the Navajos. But as Col. Jack-
son was rather on a mission of peace than
war, he accordingly ordered the Pueblos to
return peaceably to their homes until their
services should be required. To this they
reluctantly consented.

On the hills and spurs of the mountains
near the camp, were large quantities of
petrified timber. In some places entire
trunks of trees, the remains of an extinct
forest, were discovered, intermixed with
the debris on the steep declivities and in
the recesses of the craggy mountains.
While at this camp, Don Chavez, a wealthy
proprietor of the Laguna Pueblo, well dis-
posed towards the Americans, came and
made an offer of all his possessions, such
as sheep, goats, cattle, and other stock to
the commander, that his men might not be
in want of provisions. The commander,
however, accepted only so much of this
generous tender as was sufficient to relieve
his present necessities. Being requested,
Don Chavez promised to use his endeavors
to induce Sandoval, a chief of one branch
or canton of the Navajo tribe, to bring his
warriors into Cebolleta, and there conclude
a treaty of friendship with the Americans.
In this he partially succeeded.

After a short march on the 28th, this
detachment encamped before Laguna, %
rich Pueblo, containing 2,000 inhabitants.
Here the men procured such provisions as
they were most in need of; the inhabitants
supplying a market wherein they might
purchase. Pigs, chickens, bread, cheese,
molasses, and other things were brought to
them. At this place the men witnessed
another grand war dance around the scalps
of four Navajo warriors, reared upon four
lances, as at Isleta. It appeared that a
party of Navajos, about the 24th, had made
a sudden incursion from the mountains,
plundering some of the houses in the
suburbs of Laguna, and driving off large
flocks of sheep from the neighboring plains
and valleys. The Pueblos collected to-
gether and pursued them ; finally overtak-
ing them, killing four of the party and re-
covering a portion of the stock. This feast
and war dance, which continued without
intermission for fifteen houi^, were meant
to celebrate the achievement.

The next day the march was continued
up the river, near the margin of which
the soldiers encamped and spent the night.
Here an amiable young man, by name
Gwyn, died and was buried. On the 30th
the detachment marched over and pilched
camp near to Cebolleta. This place be-
came th'e headquarters of the detachment,
whence various smaller parties of men
were sent to the hill-country and moun-
tains, to put an end to the unjust exactions
and contributions, (such as loss of life
and property,) which the Navajos were
perpetually levying upon the frontier Mexi-
can and Pueblo villages. The difficult na-
ture of this enterprise, to the conduct of
which Lieutenant-colonel Jackson was ap-
pointed, will more plainly appear when it
is considered that his mission was of a two-
fold character. He was first instructed by
Gen. Kearney to negociate a triple league
of peace between three powers, the Nava-
jos, Mexicans and Pueblos, who dwell in
New Mexico, and the Americans. The
novel spectacle is here presented of the
Navajo nation being required, first, lo treat
with the New Mexicans and Pueblos,
their perpetual and implacable enemies ; to
bind themselves by articles of agreement
to abstain from war; to bury their mutual
hatred towards each other, and become
friends for the future; and second, to treat
with the Americans, of whom, perhaps,
they had never before heard, and of whom

NATURAL CURIOSITY.

63

they knew nothing-, save that they were
the conquerors of the New Mexicans, (for
what causes they could not conceive) and
might soon be their own conquerors, as
they were now on the confines of the Na-
vajo country, proposing terms of treaty
with arms in their hands. The Navajos
were willing to treat the Americans with
friendship, and even to negotiate a perma-
nent peace with them ; but they were una-
ble lo comprehend the propriety and policy
of entering into a league by which they
would be compelled to surrender up the
captives and property, which they had ta-
ken from the New Mexicans and Pueblos
by valor in various wars, nor could they
understand what right the Americans,
"armed ministers of peace," had lo impose
upon them such conditions. Neither were
they able to conceive why it was that the
New Mexicans, since they were conquered,
had been advanced to the condition of
American citizens, so that an injury done
to those people, should now be resented by
the Ameiicans, as though it were done
them.

And secondly, if he could not effect
these amicable arrangements with the Na-
vajos, he was instructed to prosecute against
them a ho>tde campaign. Hence, all the
arts of diplomacy as well as tuose of war,
were required to settle these questions
involving the interests of three separate
powers.

It was from this place that Sandoval, a
noted chief of one of the Navajo cantons,
who had a friendly intercourse with the
New Mexicans on the frontier, was dis-
patched by Lieutenant-colonel Jackson, to
see the principal men of his tribe, and as-
certain if they were of a disposition to
m ike an amicable arrangement of existing
differences. Sandoval, after an absence
of about two weeks, returned and reported
" that he had seen all the head men of his
nation, and that they were chiefly disposed
for peace ; but that they were unwilling to
trust themselves among the New Mexicans,
unless they should be furnished with an
escort of '-white men" whose protection
would ensure their safety. And further,
that before coming into the American camp,
they wished to see some of the white men
among them, that they might talk with
them and learn what they desired. San-
doval further reported, "that the principal
habitations or rather haunts of the Navajos,
were two hundred miles west from Cebol-

leta, in the neighborhood of the great
Tcheusca mountain, the grand dividing
ridge between the Atlantic and Pacific
waters, and upon the borders of the noted
Laguna Colorado or Red Lake. This
beautiful, romantic sheet of water, is near
the western base of the Tcheusca ridge of
the Cordilleras. It is fed by-springs at the
base of the great mountain. In a lovely
recess of this great mountain, and in sight
of the fairy lake, is a spacious semicircular
amphitheatre, sculptured by the hand of na-
ture in the side of the solid masses of rock.
It faces the south-westward. At each cor-
ner of this crescent temple of nature, and
isolated from the main mountain, stands a
mighty, colossal column of sandstone,
horizontally striped with violet and blue
veins, towering to the height of three
hundred feet. They are more than thirty
feet in circumference, and as regular and
smooth as if they had been polished by the
chisel of some master sculptor.

Upon the representation of Sandoval,
Capt. Reid applied to Lieutenant-colonel
Jackson to permit him, with a small body
of troops, to make an excursion into the
country, and learn more certainly whether
the Navajos were disposed for peace oi
war. In order to allay their suspicions
and inspire them with confidence in the
good intentions of the Americans, he
thought it best to take only a few men. —
Accordingly, about the 20th of October,
Capt. Reid with thirty men, who gallantly
volunteered their services (ten from each of
the companies present,) accompanied and
aided by lieutenants De Courcy and Wells,
set out upon this hazardous enterprise,
taking with him three n.ules packed with
provisions, this being all that the scarcity
of the camp would allow at that time, ex-
pecting to be gone about fifteen days. The
New Mexicans were amazed at the temer-
ity of Capt.-Reid's proceeding. To enter
the country of this powerful and warlike
nation, which had for a series of years
robbed and plundered their country with
impunity, with less than an army, was
considered by them as certain destruction.
Sandoval, whose geographical knowledge
of the country was extensive and minute,
was taken as a guide ; for no other could bo-
procured. Some suspected that he would
lead the party into an ambuscade, the more
effectually to ingratiate himself into favoi
with his people. But he proved faithful.
Besides, the New Mexicans have but a

iJ4

DONIPHAN'S EXPEDITION.

very limited knowledge of that mountain
country, never departing far from their set-
tlements, through fear of the Indians. Nor
would a .Mexican, though his knowledge
of the country were ever so accurate, feel
himself safe to accompany so small a num-
ber of men on so hazardous an enterprise.
This party, in its march, surmounted diffi-
culties of the most appalling nature. It
passed over craggy mountains of stupen-
dous height, winding its way up the steep
and rugged acclivities, each man leading
his horse among the slabs and fragments
of great rocks which lay in confused
masses along the sides of the mountains,
having crumbled from some summit still
above, obstructing the pass-way. — Preci-
pices and yawning chasms, fearful to be-
hold, often left but a narrow passage,
where a blunder either to the right or left
would precipitate horse and man hundreds
of feet below, among the jagged and point-
ed rocks. Indeed this party ascended and
descended mountains, where, at first view,
every attempt would seem fruitless and
vain, and where the giddy heights and tow-
ering masses of granite seem to bid de-
iiance to the puny efforts of man. Until
success showed what resolution could
accomplish, these things were pronounced
utterly impossible. But the energy of the
Anglo-Saxons knows no bounds.

The ease with which these few hardy
and adventurous men appeared to obviate
the difficulties, and surmount the obstacles
which impeded their progress, and which
^eemed, until essayed, incredible of per-
formance, afforded convincing argument
that, in the affairs of men, to resolve is to
conquer; and that men, at least Ameri-
cans, can accomplish whatever is within
the scope of possibility. Having traveled
iive days with little or no intermission,
through the gorges and fissures of the
mountains, and over hills intersected by nu-
merous ravines, with steep and almost im-
passable banks, they pitched camp near a
moderate supply of wood, water and grass,
in a narrow vale formed by projecting
spurs of dark basalt and pudding stone,
terminating in a succession of rocky ridges.
Here they determined to remain a short
time, that they might obtain a little rest
and refreshment. Here also they met a
few of Sandoval's people, who upon being
assured that the Americans meant them no
harm, returned with confidence to their
several homes near camp, jrorn thence

having proceeded a short distance, thev met
with an advance party of about forty
Navajo warriors, having with them a few
women ; an infallible sign of friendly in-
tention. At first they were afraid. Here-
upon Capt. Keid, leaving his men in the
valle)r, and taking with him Sandoval, his
interpreter and guide, rode to the top of
the hill upon which they stood, stopped,
and saluted them in a kind manner. After
a few friendly signs and some conversa-
tion, Sandoval being interpreter, gaining
confidence they approached the captain,
rode clown with him to the place where
the men were pitching camp, and passed
the night together, the utmost confidence
seeming mutually to prevail. Presents
were interchanged and conversation was
commenced as they sat around their camp-
fires. The night passed off most am-
icably.

The next morning, at the instance of the
Indians, the party moved on again, having
obtained from them this information : —
"That there was to be a grand collection
of the young men and women of the Nav-
ajo tribe, at a place thirty miles further into
the country, where some event was to be
celebrated by much feasting and dancing."
They expressed much solicitude that the
captain and his men should be their guests
on that occasion, adding, "that most of their
people had never seen a white man ; but,
having heard much of the power and wis-
dom of the Americans, and of the progress
of the army in New Mexico, were very
anxious to see and entertain them." This
proposal according with the views of the
captain and his brave comrades, whose ob-
ject was to see as many of the tribes as
possible, that whatever impression they
made might be general, they agreed to at-
tend. They set out.

When they arrived at the place designa-
ted, they found no less than five hundred
men and women already congregated. —
Whether these Indians meant to deceive,
and lead these few men into an ambuscade,
and thereby treacherously entrap and put
them to death, was uncertain. However,
they resolved to proceed, and use the ut-
most vigilance, and if such an attempt should
be made, also to use their arms to the best
advantage. Seeing which, the Indians re
ceived them with the greatest professions
of friendship, and kindly made them pres-
ents of some excel' ent sheen- and other
meats, which were very acceptable, as the

CAPTAIN REID'S LETTER.

65

captain was now destitute. They pitched
camp, which was no sooner done, than it
was surrounded and filled by Indians, ea-
gerly gratifying their curiosity. The "white
men" were amongst them. To have kept
these "sons of the forest" at a distance by
guards, would have appeared but safe and
prudent, yet it would have thwarted the
purpose of the visit, which was to secure
their friendship. To have showed any
thing like suspicion, would have been in-
sulting to their pride, and wounding to their
feelings. It was therefore, perhaps, safer
to risk the chances of treachery, than to use
caution which would serve but to provoke.
The feasting and dancing continued through
the night, during which the captain and his
men, at intervals, mixing in the crowd, par-
ticipated in the festivities and amusements
of the occasion, to the infinite satisfaction
of their rude but hospitable entertainers. —
The scene was truly romantic. Contem-
plate five hundred dancers in the hollow-
recesses of the mountains, with the music
of shells and timbrels, giving way to the
most extravagant joy, and a band of thirty
Americans, armed cap-a-pie with martial
accoutrements, mingling in the throng! — •
This was the 27th day of October.

The next morning, the captain proposed
a " grand talk," but was told by the In-
dians " that none of the head chiefs or men
of council were present ; that there were
no Navaj os there ;" (using the Mexican
phrase, "pocos, pocos" signifying very
few,) but at the same time intimating, that
by one day's march further into the country,
they would see muchos, (very many,) and
amongst them the old men of the nation,
who, they said, had great knowledge and
great experience.

Though this party was small, far from
succor, scant of provisions, and in a coun-
try without supplies, except such as the
Indians possessed, it was nevertheless vo-
ted to go on, and accomplish the original
objects of the excursion. The captain
suggested the condition of his commissary
stores to his red frie'hds, who assured him
that there were numerous flocks of goats,
sheep and cattle further in the mountains ;
and that, if he chose to accompany them,
he should be abundantly supplied. They
started.

A march of thirty miles over the great

dividing ridge of the Cordilleras, brought

them to the waters of the Pacific, and into

the very heart of die country occupied by

5

the Navajos, the most powerful and civi-
lized tribe in the west. This day's march
led them through fissures, chasms, and ca-
nons in the mountains, whose tops were
capped with perpetual snow. Capt. Reid,
in a letter to the author, thus describes the
perils that surrounded him at this time ;

"This was the most critical situation in
which I ever found myself placed; — with
only thirty men, in the very centre of a peo-
ple the most savage and proverbially treach-
erous of any on the continent. Many of
them were not very friendly. Being com-
pletely in their power, we, of course, had
to play tire game to the best advantage. As
there was no pasturage near the camp, we
had to send our horses out. Our numbers
were too few to divide, or even all together
to think of protecting the horses, if the In-
dians were disposed to take them. So I
even made a virtue of necessity ; and put-
ting great confidence in the honesty of their
intentions, I gave my horses in charge of
one of the chiefs of these notorious horse
stealers. He took them out some five miles
to graze, and we, after taking supper, again
joined in the dance, which was kept up un-
til next morning. Our men happened to
take the right course to please the Indians,
participating in all their sports, and ex-
changing liveries with them. They seem-
ed to be equally delighted to see themselves
clothed in the vesture obtained from us,
and to see our men adopting their costume.
The emboldened confidence and freedom
with which we mixed among them, seemed
to win upon their feelings, and make them
disposed to grant whatever we asked. —
They taxed their powers of performance
in all their games, to amuse us, and make
the time pass agreeably, notwithstanding
our imminently precarious situation.

" We had not arrived at the place of our
camp before we were met by all the head
men of the nation. The Chief of all,
Narbona, being very sick, was neverthe-
less mounted on horseback, and brought
in. He slept in my camp all night. Nar-
bona, who was probably seventy years old,
being held in great reverence by his tribe
for the war-like exploits of his youth and
manhood, was now a mere skeleton of a
man, being completely prostrated by rheu-
matism, the only disease, though a very
common one, in this country. Conforma-
bly to a custom of the chief men of his
tribe, he wore his finger nails very long,
probably one and a half inches — formida-

66

DONIPHAN'S EXPEDITION.

ble weapons ! He appeared to be a mild,
amiable man, and ihough he liad been a
warrior himself, was very anxious before
his death to secure for his people a peace
with all their old enemies, as well as whh
\is, the 'New Men,' as he called us.

" Upon the evening after our ariival we
held a grand talk, in which all die old men
participated. Most of them seemed dispo-
sed for peace, but some opposed it as be-
ing contrary to the honor of the Navajos,
as well as their interest, to make peace
with the Mexicans ; though they were
willing to do so with us. The peace par-
ty, however, prevailed, and by fair words
and promises of protection, I succeeded in
obtaining a promise from the principal men,
that they would overtake me at the Agua
Fria, a place some forty miles from Jack-
son's camp, from whence we would go to-
gether to Santa Fe and conclude the final
treaty.* The night passed off in a variety
of diversions, and in the morning, notwith-
standing the most urgent desire on the part
of our entertainers that we" would stay, I
thought it prudent to return, as we were
running short of provision. Our horses
were forthcoming without a single excep-
tion, and as soon as we caught them, we
turned our faces towards camp.

"Although this expedition was one of
much hazard, yet it turned out to be one
of much pleasurable excitement, and at-
tended with no loss or harm. The coun-
try through which we travelled is amongst
the finest portions of Mexico ; — decidedly
the best for the growth of stock, and pre-
senting more interest and variety in its fea-
tures than any over which I travelled. It
is, however, very destitute of water, so
much so, as to make it dangerous for diose
who travel without a guide. On this ac-
count, more than by its mountain fastness-
es, it is impregnable to invasion. The
people who inhabit it, and who were the
object of our visit, are in many respects
singular and unlike any other of the abo-
riginal inhabitants of this continent. Their
habits are very similar to those of die Tar-
tars. They are entirely a pastoral people,
their flocks constituting their sole wealth.
But little addicted to the chase, and never
indulging in it, except when the game may
be taken on horseback. Their weapons of

* Cafit. R< id at this time was not apprised of' the
fact that Col. Doniphan, who was invested with full
powers tn conclude a treaty of peace with the Nava-
jos, had taken his departure from Santa Fe^

war are the spear or lance, the bow, and
the lazo, in the use of all which they are
not excelled. They may be said literally
to live on horseback. Of these animals
they possess immense droves, and of a stock
originally the same with the Mexican horse,
yet wonderfully improved. They pay
great attention to the breeding of their hor-
ses, and think scarcely less of them than
do the Arabians. They also possess many
mules, but these are generally the proceeds
nf their marauding expeditions against the
Mexicans. Indeed the whole of New Mex-
ico is subject to the devastating incursions
of these lords of the mountains. Of this,
however, you know as well as I."

The evening after the captain and his
party left the grand camp of the Nava-
jos, on their return to Cebolleta, as an
evidence of the sincerity of their pro-
fessions, they dispatched a runner to the
Americans, to warn them to take care of
their horses, for that some of their young
men weie ill disposed toward them, and
might pursue them with the view of captu-
ring their slock. They, however, effected
their return to Jackson's encampment with-
out any serious molestation, or any consid-
erable difficulty. The chiefs started ac-
cording to promise, to overtake the captain
at Agua Fria, but were induced to turn back
by a miscreant*Navajo, who assuted them,
that, if they ventured to Santa Fe, they
would all be killed. Having had so many
evidences of the bad faith of the Mexican?,
they were naturally suspicious, and there-
fore abandoned their purpose.

Thus terminated this most extraordinary
adventure among the Navajos, which in
point of excitement, interest, novelty and
hazard, was equal, if not superior, to any
enterprise connected with the Navajo ex-
pedition. Though this excursion was not
productive of any immediate beneficial
results, yet it was not without its more re-
mote effects upon the people visited, in
making up their estimate of the enterprise
and good faith of the Americans. Both
the captain and the men whom he led,
were as gallant as ever drew steel. The
party arrived safely at Cebolleta after an
absence of twenty days.

Whilst Capt. Reid was on this excur-
sion, a band of renegade Navajos came
into the neighborhood of Cebolleta, and
succeeded in driving off most of the stock,
both mules and horses, belonging to the
detachment under Lieutenant-colonel Jack

GILPIN'S MARCH.

67

son ; for the recovery of which, Captain
Parsons and Lieut. Jackson, with sixty
men, were sent out in pursuit of them.
After much difficulty, they finally succeed-
ed in recovering a portion of them, and re-
turned to camp about the same time with
Capt. Reid. The remaining portion was
recovered by Major Gilpin.

CHAPTER X.

Major Gilpin and the Yutas — His march against
the Navajos — His passage over the Cordilleras —
Express to Col. Doniphan — The San Juan — Pas-
sage over ihe Tunicha mountains — Deep Snows
— Major Gilpin departs for the Ojo Osc — Col. Don-
iphan passes the Sierra Madre — Immense Snow
Storm — Arrival at the Bear Spring — Doniphan's
Speech to the Navajos — Their Chief's reply —
Treaty concluded.

It has been related that, on the 18th of
September, Major Gilpin, in command of
two companies under Capts. Waldo and
Stephenson, amounting in ail to about one
hundred and eighty men, left Santa Fe in
obedience to an order from Gen. Kearney,
and proceeded forthwith to the neighbor-
hood of Abiquiu, on the Rio de Chama, to
preserve order and quiet among the border
tribes. It was not anticipated that this
force would be required to penetrate further
into the mountainous regions of the west,
than its present encampment at Abiquiu,
from whence it was expected that various
small parties would make short excursions
into the surrounding country, to clear it of
marauders and depredators ; the Navajo
expedition being subsequently conceived
and projected.

Most of the men composing this detach-
ment, had not received their commutation
of clothing, nor had any of them received
any port'on of the pay which had long
been due them ; they would therefore soon
be in w mt of means of protecting them-
selves against the inclemency of the ap-
proaching winter. With troops thus pcor-
ly provided, a few baggage wagons, and a
scanty supply of provisions, Major Gilpin
arrived at the Chama about the 25:h of the
same monih. Leaving the greater part of
his men in this vicinity, he proceeded with
a party of eighiy-five men about one hun-
dred miles above the valley of Taos,

amongst the Yutas, a fierce and numerous
tribe of Indians, with the view to conciliate
them and dispose them to a friendly inter-
course with the Americans. Having in an
incredibly short space of time collected to-
gether about sixty of their principal men,
he returned with them to Santa Fe, where
they entered into treaty stipulations with
Colonel Doniphan on the 13th of October.

After a short stay at the capital, Major
Gilpin returned to this encampment at Abi-
quiu, where he remained in faithful dis-
charge of the duties assigned him until h<
received orders to march against the Nava-
jos. While in this quarter he preserved
the utmost tranquillity amongst the Mexi-
cans, Pueblos and Yutas, supplied his men
with provisions from the adjacent country
and villages, procured pack-mules, sump-
ter-horses for the Navajo campaign, and
sent his provision and baggage wagons
from Abiquiu to Santa Fe., that he might
not be embarrassed by these tilings in his
intended expedition across the mountains.

On the 22d of November, Major Gilpin,
acting under instructions from Col. Doni-
phan, left his encampment on the Chama,
and commenced his march against the Na-
vajo Indians, completing in six days more
than one hundred miles, having followed
the Rio de Chama to its source in the
snowy regions, transcending the elevated
range of mountains which separate the
waters of the two great oceans of the
world, and descending into the San Juan, a
branch of the western Colorado.

Major Gilpin was accompanied by about
sixiy-five Mexican and Pueblo Indian al-
lies, under command of a lieutenant.* The
perils, hardships and sufferings of this
march were almost incredible, yet they
were encountered and endured by the men
with Roman fortitude. The rugged ways,
the precipitous mountains, the dangerous
defiles, the narrow passes, the yawning
chasms and fissures in vitreous, volcanic
remains, and the giant fragments of rocks,
which obstructed their passage, rendered
the march arduous beyond the power of
language to describe. The passage of
the Carthaginian general over the Appe-

* This allied force consisted of twenty Taos Mex-
icans, commanded by Lieut. Virgil; twenty Pueblos
under Tom.s; and twenty-five pennex in charge of
the pai k-mules. Sanliauo Concklin was Major Gil-
pin's Mexican, and Angel Chavez, his Navajo in-
terpreter. Tgnacio Salezar, and Ben zate Vilandi
were his guides.

68

DONIPHAN'S EXPEDITION.

nines, and his sudden descent upon the
plains of Italy, attracted the admiration of
all Europe. The march of Bonaparte and
McDonough over the snow-capt peaks of
the Alps, astonished the world. Major
Gilpin's march over the grander and lof-
tier summits of the Cordilleras, eternally
crowned with snow, was certainly an
achievement not less arduous or perilous.
On the evening of the 7th so much snow
fell that it was with the utmost difficulty
the men and animals could make their
way among the mountain passes. In
many places the snow had slid down from
the peaks, as an avalanche, until it had ac-
cumulated many feet, and even fathoms,
deep. This day some Indians were seen
upon the eminences at a distance, watch-
ing the movements of our men. They
were pursued, but without success. On
the next day they appeared in like manner,
but in greater numbers. They were again
pursued hotly; but they were so active,
and could escape with so much facility
into their mountain fastnesses, that it was
not possible to capture them. On the 9th
the Indians appeared in considerable num-
bers, as before, upon the distant eminences.
By the display of friendly signals they
were induced to come into camp. They
reported that they had seen some of the
American forces and formed a treaty with
them. These were no doubt the same
whom Capt. Reid had previously visited.
Upon this information Major Gilpin sent
one of them to bear an express to Colonel
Doniphan, then on his way into the Nava-
jo country, assuring them that no hostili-
ties would be commenced until the mes-
senger's return. Meanwhile the rest of the
Indians remained quietly about camp, or
followed the line of march.

The next two days the detachment trav-
eled down the San Juan forty miles or
more, meandering the stream, and encamp-
ing on its margin, for water and pasturage.
This beautiful, fresh, mountain stream,
whose limpid waters reveal the very peb-
bles and brilliant sands upon the bottom,
and the fishes which sport in its waves, is
about fifty yards wide, and was everywhere
filled with Indians, watering their numer-
ous herds of horses, sheep and other ani-
mals. From this cause the pasturage was
greatly exhausted near the river, but was
more abundant further out into the moun-
tains. The three following days the march
was continued towards theTunicha moun-

tains, whose bleak colossal summits tower
magnificently above the clouds, and are
plainly visible from the San Juan, a dis-
tance of sevenly-five miles. This part of
the march was over barren sandy plains
and immense fields of gypsum,- covered
with pebbles worn smooth by attrition,
which rendered the travel extremely labo- .
rious, the whole way being entirely desti-
tute of either wood or grass, &hi only sup-
plied with water which is both bitter to
the taste and nauseating to the stomach.

On the 15th the march was commenced
over the Tunicha ridge, the grandest of
mountains, consisting of huge masses of
granite piled on granite, until their summits
penetrate far into the regions of clouds and
perennial snows. The ascent was long
and arduous. The men, leading their
horses and wading in the snow, were com-
pelled to carry their arms, and thread their
way amongst the huge slabs of granite and
baeall which had crumbled from above, and
lay in confused masses along the rugged
ascent. Many animals were left and per-
ished by the way. Some of them, by a
misstep, tumbled headlong over the preci-
pices, and fell hundreds of feet below. It
was useless of course to look into the
abysses whither they had fallen ; for they
were either dashed to pieces on the rocks,
or buried in fathoms of accumulated snow.
This day the Indian express-bearer returned
to Major Gdpin, bringing orders Horn Col.
Doniphan for him to be at Bear Spring on
the 20th, stating that he would endeavor to
meet him there, requesting him to bring
into that place all the Navajo chiefs he
could find.

The snow was now deep, and the wea-
ther excessively eold. The fierce winds
whistled along the ragged granite hills and
peaks. The prospect was horrid. Half
of the animals had given out, and were
abandoned. Thus were these m«»i situa-
ted— half of them on foot, ca; rying their
arms, stinted in provisions, destitute of
shoes and clothing, and their way barrica-
ded by eternal rocks and snow. Some-
times when they lay down at night, wrapt
in their blankets and the skins of wild
beasts, before morning they would b -'. com-
pleiely enveloped in a new crop of snow,
and they would rise at day-dawn with be-
numbed limbs and bristling icicles frozen to
their hair and long whiskers. They per-
severed. This night's encampment w?s on
the bare summit of the Tunicha mountain.

FORCES ARRIVE AT THE BEAR SPRING.

69

where there was neither comfort for the
men, nor food, nor water for the horses.
The absoluteness of the place was dreadful.
The descent on the 16th was even more
terrible than the ascent had been the pre-
vious day. The men had to walk, as it
was impossible to ride down the precipi-
tous crags and spurs of the mountain. The
packs would sometimes slide forward on
the mules, and tumble them down the rug-
ged ways. The crevices between the rocks
were filled with driven snow, many fathoms
deep, so that man and horse would often
plunge into these through mistake, from
whence it was difficult, without assistance,
to extricate themselves. Having accom-
plished the descent at sunset, the men built
their camp-fires (for they had no tents) on
a brook issuing from a cleft in the moun-
tain's side, where they found wood, water,
and grass. Here they enjoyed the advan-
tage of a little rest.

The next day the march was continued
through lovely valleys and handsome up-
land, the snow falling excessively all day.
The snow had now accumulated in such
quantities that it was toilsome to advance at
all. This night they staid at a place called
Canon de Trigo, where the Navajos culti-
vate considerable quantities of wheat, and
other small grain. The next morning a
great many Indians visited the camp, and
signified their wish to be friendly with the
Americans. This day they came to the
Challe ; and passed within a few miles of
the celebrate i strong-hold or presidio of the
Navajos, called El Challe.

On the 19th Major Gilpin with about
thirty men, starting at dawn, went on in
advance so as to reach the Bear Spring on
the 29 di, leaving Capt. Waldo to bring up
the mail! body of the detachment. He ar-
rived there safely, and in anticipation of
Col. Doniphan. Capt. Waldo brought up
the rear in good order and time to the place
appointed, where he effected a junction
with Col. Doniphan's forces. Here they
rested.

Let us now turn and consider the diffi-
culties which Col. Doniphan and the men
with him had to encounter in arriving at
the same place. We have hitherto men-
tioned how Col. Doniphan left Santa F^
on the 26th of October, and with a body
of three hundred men proceeded to Albur-
querqus ; crossed the river ; meditated a
separate march into the Navajo district ;
was diverted from his purpose ; compelled

to send his troops to Valverde to protect
the merchants ; and how with a part of his
staff, and four other men, he arrived atCu
varro, on the 5th of November, where he
found the detachment under Lieutenant-col-
onel Jackson, who had just moved Ins
camp to that place from Cebolleta. Cap-
tains Parsons and Reid had just returned
from their excursions into the Navajo coun-
try. Capt. Reid's company, in considera-
tion of the duties it had performed, and that
the men were almost destitute of comforta-
ble clothing to defend themselves against
the cold, was permitted to return to Albur-
querque, to receive from the paymaster at
that place their commutation for clothing,
which had not yet been paid them. This
sum was forty-two dollars to the private
man and non-commissioned officer.

On the 12th of November Col. Doni-
phan, while at Cuvarro, received an express
from Major Gilpin, then on the San Juan,
which was brought into camp by a Na.'ajo
Indian. Major Gilpin represented that he
had seen large numbers of Navajos, who
pretended to have already entered into
treaty stipulations with the United States'
forces, no doubt alluding to the agreement
which they had made with Capt. Reid, and
failed to carry out. Col. Doniphan replied
to Major Gilpin by the same Indian, that
no such treaty had been made ; that Capt.
Reid had been sent out for the purpose by
Lieutenant-colonel Jackson, and had visited
many of the Navajo chiefs, but that no defi-
nite treaty had been ratified ; and instruct-
ed him to bring all the Navajos he could
find to the well known Ojo Oso, by the
29th of the month. This the major did.

It was now the 15th of November, when
Colonel Doniphan and Lieutenant-colonel
Jackson took up the line of march for the
Bear Spring, with about one hundred and
fifty men under Capt. Parsons and Lieut.
DeCourcy; Capt. Hughes and the other
sick men being left at Cuvarro. This de-
tachment was also scarce of provisions, and
had neither tents, nor baggage wagons, but
made use of pack-muhs to transport provi-
sions and cooking utensils.

For two days the march was conducted
up through a rich valley country, in the di-
rection of the sources of the Puerco. The
grass was moderately good for grazing pur-
poses, but wood was scarce, and "the water
muddy and filthy. This district of country
was occupied by that canton of the Nava-
jos, of whom Sandoval was the chief. On

70

DONIPHAN'S EXPEDITION.

the evening of the latter day they encamped
on a rivulet, whose waters came leaping
down, in foaming cascades, from the moun-
tain, and then disappeared in the sands of
the valley. Having no tents, the soldiers
quartered on the naked earth, in the open
air; but so much snow fell that night, that
at dawn it was not possible to distinguish
where they lay, until they broke the snow
which covered them, and came out as though
they were rising from their graves ; for in
less than twelve hours the snow had fallen
thirteen inches deep in the valleys, and
thirty-six in the mountains.

On the 17th they marched north-wester-
ly, leaving the heads of the Puerco to the
right, and passing directly over the Sierra
Madre. The march was difficult in the
valleys ; but when they came to ascend the
steep spurs and bench lands, which lead up
to the mountains, a horrid, dreary prospect
opened above them. The men, and their
commanders were almost up to their waists,
toiling in the snow, breaking a way for
the horses and mules to ascend. The low-
est point, in the main mountain, rose to a
sublime height; and to the right, still tow-
ering far above this, projected stupendous,
colossal columns of ragged granite, and iron
colored basalt. In reaching the only point
where the main ridge could be crossed,
many smaller mountains, and intermediate,
deep, narrow, rocky vales were to be passed.
The snow in the gaps and narrow places
among the rocks, was frequently a fathom
in depth. After much toil they reached
the summit. To accomplish the descent
into the valleys on the west side, was a la-
bor not much less difficult than that which
the soldiers had just finished. They rested
a moment, and then began the descent. —
After the most serious and arduous labor,
they reached the base of the great moun-
tain, late at night, and took up camp at a
spring, the water of which flows towards
the Pacific. The depth of the snow was
less on the west, than in the mountains, or
on the east side. Finding good grass, wood
and water, the soldiers took their supper,
and recounted, as they sat around their
camp-fires, the dangers and adventures of
the day. At length their toils were lorgot-
len in the slumbers of the night. The faith-
ful sentinel, who after such a day's labor,
stood wakeful all night in the snow, while
his weary comrades slept, does he not, rea-
der, deset ve your gratitude ? He has no
other reward.

Having now passed the mountain, they
traveled on the 18th, over a valley country,
in a westerly direction; — gently rolling
hills, then rocky bluffs, then bench-lands,
then crags and bleak knobs, and then barren,
naked, giant masses of gray granite and
dark basalt rising on the right, and a heavy
forest of pines and cedars, always verdant,
spreading over the lowlands to the left. In
many places these colossal granite peaks
shoot almost perpendicularly out of the
plain, more than six thousand feet high. —
The surface of the country continued uni-
form for the next two days' march, except
in some places there were gently swelling
hills, with grassy recesses between, on the
one side, and a heavy, unbroken forest of
evergreens on the other. Here the Nava-
jos pasture their immense droves of horses
and mules, and keep their numerous flocks
of sheep and goats. The aspect of the
country continued thus until they arrived
at the Bear Spring, on the morning of the
21st; Major Gilpin, as already noticed,
having got there on the day previous, with
a number of the Navajo chiefs, who dwell
in the country to the west and north-west
of that place, commissioned to bind the
nation.

There were now present at the Bear
Spring, where the treaty was made, about
one hundred and eighty Americans, and five
hundred Navajo Indians, including all the
head chiefs of each of the cantons, compos-
ing that powerful tribe of mountain lords
and scourgers of New Mexico. The par-
ties being all present, to whom power was
delegated to conclude a lasting peace be-
tween three nations, the Navajos, Mexi-
cans, and Americans, the treaty was com-
menced on the 21st; Col. Doniphan first
stating explicitly, through an interpreter,
T. Caldwell, the objects of his visit, and
the designs and intentions of his govern-
ment. One of their chiefs, Sarcilla Largo,
a young man, very bold and intellectual,
spoke for them : " He was gratified to
learn the views of the Americans. Head-
mired their spirit and enterprise, but de-
tested the Mexicans." Their speeches
were delivered alternately during the whole
day. At sunset the parties adjourned to
meet again the following morning.

Meanwhile they repaired to their res
pective camps, the Americans posting out
sentinels, that they might not be surprised
and massacred by the Navajos through
treachery ; and these that they might not

SPEECH OF NAVAJO CHIEF.

71

come into the power of the Americans with-
out their own consent.

On the 22d, Capt. Waldo having come
in with one hundred and fifty men, swell-
ing the aggregate number of the Americans
present to three hundred and thirty, the
treaty was recommenced. Col. Doniphan
now explained to the chiefs, " that the
United States had taken military posses-
sion of i\ew Mexico; that her laws were
now extended over that territory, that the
New Mexicans would be protected against
violence and invasion ; and that their rights
would be amply preserved to them ; that
the United States was also anxious to enter
into a treaty of peace and lasting friend-
ship with her red children, the Navajos ;
that the same protection would be given
them against encroachments, and usurpa-
tion of their rights, as had been guarantied
the New Mexicans ; that the United States
claimed all the country by the right of
conquest, and both they and the New
Mexicans were now become equally her
children ; that he had come with ample
powers to negociate a permanent peace
between the Navajos, the Americans, and
New Mexicans ; and that if they refused
to treat on terms honorable to both parties,
he was instructed to prosecute a war
against them." He also admonished them,
" to enter into no treaty stipulations unless
they meant to observe them strictly, and in
good faith ; that the United States made
no second treaty with the same people ;
that she first offered the olive branch, and,
if that were rejected, then powder, bullet,
and the steel."

Then the same young chief, of great
sagacity and boldness, stood up and replied
to the American commander thus : "Amer-
icans ! you have a strange cause of war
against the Navajos. We have waged
war against the New Mexicans for several
years. We have plundered their villages
and killed many of their people, and made
many prisoners. We had just cause for
all this. You have lately commenced a
war against the same people. You are
powerful. You have great guns and many
brave soldiers. You have therefore con-
quered them, the very thing we have been
attempting to do for so many years. You
now turn upon us for attempting to do
what you have done yourselves. We
cannot see why you have cause of quarrel
with us for fighting the New Mexicans on
the we?t, while you do the same thing on

the east. Look how mattes stand. This
is our ivar. We have more right to com-
plain of you for interfering in our war,
than you have to quarrel with us for con-
tinuing a war we had begun long before
you got here. If you will act justly, you
will allow us to settle our own differ-
ences."

Col. Doniphan then explained, " that
the New Mexicans had surrendered ; that
they desired no more fighting; that it was
a custom with the Americans when a peo
pie gave up, to treat them as friends thence
forward ; that we now had full possession
of New Mexico, and had attached it to
our government; that the whole country
and every thing in it had become ours by
conquest ; and that when they now stole
property fiom the New Mexicans, they
were stealing from us ; and when they
killed them, they were killing our people,
for they had now become ours ; that this
could not be suffered any longer; that it
would be greatly to their advantage for the
Americans to settle in New Mexico, and
that they then could open a valuable trade
with us, by which means they could ob-
tain every thing they needed to eat and
wear in exchange for their furs and pel-
tries."

Col. Doniphan then invited their young
men to the United States to learn trades,
as he discovered them to be very ingeni-
ous, that they might be serviceable to their
people. This pleased them, and they
desired very much to accompany him to
the United Stales, but they did not wish
to go through Chihuahua, for they feared
the Mexicans would kill them. This
induced them not to go.

Then the same chief said :■ — " If New
Mexico be really in your possession, and
it be the intention of your government to
hold it, we will cease our depredations,
and refrain from future wars upon that *
people ; for we have no cause of quarrel
with you, and do not desire to have any
war with so powerful a nation. Let there
be peace between us." This was the end
of the speaking. After which the follow-
ing articles of treaty were signed by both
parties.

Memorandum of a treaty entered into between Col.
A. W. Doniphan, commanding the United States'
forces in the Navajo country, and the chiefs of the
Navajo nation of Indians, viz : Sariilla Largo. Ca-
balladadeMucho, Alexandra, Sandoval, Kiatanito
Jose Largo, Narbona, Sagundo, Pedro Jose Man-

72

DONIPHAN'S EXPEDITION.

uelito, Tapio, and Archulette, at the Ojo Oso,

Navajo country, November 22d, 1846.

Art. 1. A firm and lasting peace and amity
shall henceforth exist between the American people
and the Navajo tribe of Indians.

Art. 2. The people of New Mexico and the
Pueblo tribe of Indians are included in the term
American people.

Akt. 3. A mutual trade, as between people of
the same nation, shall be carried on between these
several parties; the Americans, Mexicans and Pu-
eblos being free to visit all portions of the Navajo
country, and the Navajos all portions of the Ameri-
can country without molestation, and full protection
shall be mutually given.

Art. 4. There shall be a mutual restoration of
all prisoners, the several parties being pledged to
redeem by purchase such as may not be exchanged
each for each.

Art. 5. All property taken by either party from
the other, since the 18th day of August last, shall
be restored.

The undersigned, fully empowered to represent
and pledge to the above articles their respective na-
tions, have accordingly hereunto signed their names
and affixed their seals.

Alexander W. Doniphan,
Col. commanding 1st Kegt. Missouri Volunteers.
Congreve Jackson,
Lieut. Cot. commanding 1st Battalion.
William Gilpin,
Mijor commanding Id Battalion.

SIGNATURE OF THE NAVAJO CHIEFS.

Sarcilla Largo,

Caballada de Mucho,

Alexandro,

Sandoval,

Kiatanito,

Jose Largo,

Narbona,

X

mark.

Sagundo, X

mark.

Pedro Jose, "
Manuelito, "

Tapio, '■

Archulette, "
Juanieo, "

Savoietta Garcia "

The colonel then gave them some pres-
ents, which he had carried out from Santa
Fe, for that purpose, explicitly stating that
these presents were made, not by way of
purchasing their friendship, for this the
Americans were not accustomed to do, but
were given as a testimony of his personal
good will and friendship towards them, and
as a sign that peace should exist between
them.

In relurn, the chief presented Col. Doni-
phan with several fine Navajo blankets,
the manufacture of which discovers great
ingenuity, having been spun and woven
without the advantage of wheels or looms,
by a people living in the open air, without.
houses or tents. Of these the colors
are exceedingly brilliant, and the designs
and figures in good taste. The fabric is
not only so thick and compact as to turn
rain, but to hold water as a vessel. They
are used by the Navajos as a cloak in the
day time, and converted into a pallet at

night. Col. Doniphan designs sending
those which he brought home with him to
the war department at Washington, as spe-
cimens of Navajo manufacture.

Thus after almost unparalleled exertion
a treaty of peace was concluded between
the Navajos, New Mexicans, and Ameri-
cans, in a maner honorable to all parties.
This was a novel, highly important and
interesting proceeding. The Navajos and
New Mexicans had been at war from im-
memorial time. The frontier between them
had been the scene of continual blood-
shed and rapine. At this crisis the Ameri-
cans, the enemies of the one, and strangers
to the other, step in and accommodate their
differences by a triple league, which se-
cures peace between all three. This to-
gether with his previous service, and sub-
sequent achievements, not only entitles
Col. Doniphan to wear the laurel, but also
the olive, for he has justly earned the dis-
tinguished titles of VICTOR AND PACIFICATOR.

CHAPTER XI.

Return of the troops to the Del Norte — Doniphan
visits Zuni — Treaty between the Zunis and the
Navajos — Description of Zuni and the Zunians
— The Moquis — Ancient ruins — Remarks on
the Navajo campaign — The Navajos — Their
state and condition.

On the morning of the 23d the Indians
peaceably returned to their pastoral em-
ployments, and the Americans, in detached
parties, for the sake of convenient travel-
ing, returned to the valley of the Del
Norte with the utmost expedition. The
men were all iir want of provisions, having
none except what the friendly Navajos
generously gave them, and the grizzly bears
and black-tailed deer which they hunted in
the mountains. This consideration quick-
ened their marches.

Capt. Parsons and Lieut. DeCourcy
hastily returned to Cuvarro, with their re-
spective commands, by the same route
they had come to the Bear Spring. They
arrived there without serious misfortune,
having lost only a few horses and pack
animals by the way. They found that
some of their men, who were left sick at
Cuvarro, had died, others were past recov-
ery, and all in a destitute condition, having
neither comfortable clothing nor a plentiful

DONIPHAN'S MARCH TO ZUNI.

supply of provisions. All the sick who
were able to bear moving, together with
their attendants, were now conveyed clown
the river Puerco to its mouth, and thence
to Soccorro, where they were quartered.
Amongst these were Capt. Hughes, and
Lieut. Jackson. A few only, who were
very ill, were left at Cuvarro. Of these
some died,* and the survivors came on and
rejoined their companies. This detach-
ment arrived at the camp near Valverde,
and formed a juncture with the three hun-
dred, who remained as a guard to the tra-
ders, about the 12th of December, much
worn by distressing marches. Here they
rested.

The detachment under Major Gilpin,
accompanied by Col. Doniphan, Lieuten-
ant-colonel Jackson, and Lieut. Hinton,
and the three Navajo chiefs, leaving the
Ojo Oso on the same day, (23d of Novem-
ber) completed sixty miles in two days'
march, and came to Zufli, a city built after
the manner of the ancient Aztecs ; during
which they passed over a high rolling
country, well timbered with stately pines
and cedars, presenting a beautiful contrast
to the barren, bleak, rocky ridges of the
Sierra Madre, and Sierra de los Mimbres,
which now rose on the left.

This route lay over a ledge of gently
swelling hills and high lands, dividing the
head waters of the rivers Gila and Colora-
do. During this entire march there ap-
peared numerous indications of the pre-
cious metals abounding. Blossoms of gold,
silver, lead, and some specimens of copper
were seen. This whole mountain region
of country is unquestionably rich in min-
eral wealth. On arriving at Zuiii, Major
Gilpin quartered his men, as usual, in the
open air near town. Col. Doniphan and a
few others, including the three Navajo
chiefs, lodged themselves in a spacious
adobe building in the city. Now, there
was a continual war between the Navajos
and ihe Zunians. On this account, these
three Navajo chiefs durst not leave the
colonel far at any time, because they feared
that the Zunians would kill them. Col.
Doniphan therefore appointed a guard for
them, that they might not suffer any hurt.
In the evening of the 25th, upwards of
two hundred Zunians collected about the
colonel's quarter. Having intimated that

* Silas Inyard, C T. Hopper, Wrn. Sterne, and
several others, died near Cuvarro.

it was his intention on the next day to en-
deavor to bring them to a friendly under-
standing with the Navajos, their im-
placable enemies, the leading warriors of
the Zunians drew near, (for they were
friendly towards the Americans) and en-
tered into a dispute with the Navajo chiefs.
Fiery speeches were made by each of the
parties. The Zunians thought to lay hold
on them and detain them as prisoners of
war; but they durst not do this through fear
of the Americans, under whose protection
the Navajo chiefs came in. One of the
Navajo chiefs spoke for the rest. He
said :

" The cause of your present dissatisfac-
tion is just this. The war between us has
been waged for plunder. You kill and
drive off our flocks and herds, and subsist
your people upon them, and use them for
your own advantage. To resent this, we
have plundered your villages, taken your
women and children captives, and made
slaves of them. Lately you have been
unsuccessful. We have out stolen you,
and therefore you are mad and dissatisfied
about it. But there is one thing you can-
not accuse the Navajos of doing, and that
is killing women and children. You know,
not many years past, when our women
and children went into the mountains to
gather piilons, your warriors fell upon,
and killed about forty of them This
cowardly act was perpe'rated when there
were no Navajo warriors to afford them
succor."

A chief of the Zuiii tribe replied, indig-
nantly repelling the charge, and threatening
to hold the Navajo chiefs as hostages,
until the Navajos should deliver up those
of their1 people whom they held as cap-
tives. The Navajo rejoined :

" Tiie Zunians may rest assured that we
did not come over here relying on their
generosity, magnanimity, or good faith:
but, being invited by Col. Doniphan, we
have come to see if we can make a peace
with you, Zunians, which will be both
honorable and advantageous to us. We
rely alone on the integrity of the Ameri-
cans, and their ability to protect us. We
have not the slightest fear of any injury
you may attempt to offer us. for we trust
ourselves with a more honorable people. "

Coi. Doniphan here interposed, and
advised them to meet the next morning
and endeavor to form a treaty, stipulating
entire friendship between the two nations ;

74

DONIPHAN'S EXPEDITION.

tiiat it would be much better for both par-
ties to live in peace ; and that war was a
great evil. He then appointed the Amer-
ican camp, near the town, as the place of
meeting. They met accordingly, and,
after much debate, consummated a treaty
of peace and amity, on the 26lh, just and
honorable to both parties. This was the
last treaty Col. Doniphan made with any
tribe of Indians. His labors with the
Indians were now finished.

Zuiii, one of the most extraordinary
cities in the world, and perhaps the only
one now known resembling those of the
ancient Aztecs, is situated on the right bank
of the river Piscao, a small branch of the
Gila, or Colorado of California, near two
hundred miles west of the Del Norte, and
contains a singular and interesting popula-
tion of upwards of six thousand, who
derive their support almost exclusively
from agricnlture. They clothe themselves
in blankets, and other fabrics of their own
manufacture. The Zunhns being friendly
disposed towards the soldiers, these secured
of them a supply of provisions, and also
of various fruits in which the country
abounds. The Zuiiis, or Zunians, have
long been celebrated not only for honesty
and hospitality, but also for their intelli-
gence and ingenuity in the manufacture of
cotton and woolen fabrics.

The city of Zuni was thus described by
Col. Doniphan to Mr. T. B. Thorpe,* of
New Orleans : " It is divided into four
solid squares, having but two streets, cross-
ing its centre at right angles. All the
buildings are two stories high, composed
of sun-dried brick. The first story pre-
sents a solid wall to the street, and is so
constructed, that each house joins, until
one-fourth of the city may be said to be
one building. The second stories rise
from this vast, solid structure, so as to
designate each house, leaving room to walk
upon the roof of the first story between
each building. The inhabitants of Zuni
enter the second story of their buildings by
ladders, which they draw up at night, as a
defence against an)' enemy that might be
prowling about. In this city were seen
some thirty Albino Indians, who have, no
doubt, given rise to the story, that there is
living in the Rocky Mountains a tribe of

■This account was written out by Mr. Thorpe,
and first published in the New Orleans National, of
which he is the editor.

white aborigines. The discovery of this
city of the Zunians will afford the most
curious speculations among those who
have so long searched in vain for a city of
Indians, who possessed the manners and
habits of the Aztecs. No doubt we have
here a race living as did that people, when
Cortez entered Mexico. It is a remarka-
ble fact, that the Zuiiians have, since the
Spaniards left the country, refused to have
any intercourse with the modern Mexicans,
looking upon them as an inferior people.
They have also driven from among them
\jiot until recently, however^] the priests
and other dignitaries, who formerly had
power over them, and resumed habits and
manners of their own; their great chief, or
governor, being the civil and religious head.
The country around the city of Zuni is
cultivated with a great deal of care, and
affords food, not only for the inhabitants,
but for large flocks of cattle and sheep. "

The seven villages of the Moquis are
situated about five leagues further to the
westward, on the same small river. The
Moquis are an inoffensive, peaceably dis-
posed people, detesting war and rapine ;
yet they are both numerous and powerful.
They manifest considerable skill in their
manufactures, and subsist entirely by graz-
ing and agriculture. Of these people Mr.
Gregg thus speaks : " They formerly ac-
knowledged the government and religion
of the Spaniards, but have long since
rejected both, and live in a state of inde-
pendence and paganism. Their dwellings,
however, like those of Zuni, are similar to
those of the interior Pueblos ; and they
are equally industrious and agricultural,
and still more ingenious in their manufac-
turing. The language of the M6quis, or
the Moquinos, is said to differ but little
from that of the Navajos. " The Ameri-
can army did not visit them, as they were
at peace with all people, and stood aloof
from the wars that continually raged around
them.

The affairs of the Indians being thus
settled, Major Gilpin's detachment, on the
evening of the 26th, started for the valley
of the Del Norte by way of Laguna on the
Puerco. His first intention was, however,
to proceed directly to Soccorro through the
elevated range of mountains, railed by the
Mexicans, Sierra de los Mimbres, but was
convinced of the impracticability of that
route by the Zunians, who informed him
of the great dearth of water which prevail-

RUINS OF AN ANCIENT CITY,

75

ed in that region, and induced him to
change his purpose. He then marched
hastily to Laguna by a more northern pass
over the mountains, and fell in with Col.
Doniphan at that place, one hundred miles
from Zuiii, on the 2d of December.

It will be remembered that Col. Doni-
phan, Lieutenant-colonel Jackson, and
seven other men, separating from this de-
tachment, left Zuni on the 27th of Novem-
ber, and by a- different manoeuvre in the
mountains, reached Cebolleta, and thence
proceeded to Laguna, falling in with Major
Gilpin, as above related. On the head
waters of the Piscao, and high up in the
mountains, Col. Doniphan relates that he
came to the ruins of an ancient city. This
city, according to the best information he
could obtain, had been built more than two
hundred years, entirely of stone, and had
been deserted more than one hundred
years, as is supposed, on account of the
earthquakes in the vicinity. Near the ruins
are immense beds of vitreous deposit, and
blackened scoria?, presenting the appear-
ance of an extensive molten lake in the
valleys, and other volcanic remains, with
chasms and apertures opening down
through this stratum of lava, to an un-
known depth. The vitreous surface, with
its sharp asperities, was exceedingly severe
on the feet of the mules and horses, wear-
ing them to the quick in a short time.
The figure of the city was that of an ex-
act square, set north and south, so that its
four sides corresponded with the four car-
dinal points, being encircled by a double
wall of stone, fourteen feet apart. These
walls were three stories high ; two entire
stories being above ground, and the other
partly above and partly below the surface.
The space between these walls was divid-
ed into rooms of convenient size, (about
fourteen feer square.) all opening into the
interior. The remainder of the city,
though much in ruins, appeared to have
been built on streets running parallel to
these walls. In the centre was a large
square, or plaza, which, from its appear-
ance, might have been used for military
parade grounds, and for corralling stock in
the night-time. In these rooms, large
quantities of red cedar, which had been
cut of convenient length for fire places,
was discovered in a state of entire preser-
vation, having been stored up for more than
a century. Col. Doniphan and suite cook-
ed their suppers, and made their camp-fires

with some of it, and then traveled on.
This is all that could be learned of that
remarkable ruin.

Both of the routes traveled by Col.
Doniphan and Major Gilpin, from Zuiii to
Cebolleta and Laguna, and thence to the
encampment at Valverde, were pronounced
impracticable by the Mexicans. There
were indeed long stretches, over sandy
wastes, wherein no water could be obtain-
ed. These must be traversed. The sol-
diers and animals were therefore compelled
to pass several consecutive days and nights,
without eating or drinking. They effected
their arrival at Valverde rendezvous, in
parcels, between the 8th and 12Ji of De-
cember, Capt. Stephenson's company only
being permitted to return to A-lburquerque
to receive the commutation for one year's
clothing, which had long been due them.

The march of the squadron under com-
mand of Major Gilpin, ranks among the
brightest achievements of the war. His
passage over the Cordilleras, and Tunicha
mountains, accomplished, as it was, in the
depth of winter, when the elements and
obstacles were ten times more dreadful
than the foe, with men destitute of every
thing but arms and resolution, meets not
with a parallel in the annals of history.
From the time of his leaving Santa Fe,
including the diversion he made into the
country of Yutas, north of Taos, his col-
umn marched at least seven hundred and
fifty miles, before reaching Valverde, over
the loftiest mountains, and most inaccessi-
ble regions, on the continent. By distress
of marching he lost two brave men, Bryant
and Foster, and one hundred and fifty head
of stock. The success of the celebrated
Navajo Treaty was not less owing tn the
gallantry and energy of this column in hunt-
ing up and bringing in the chiefs of that
nation to the appointed place, than to the
skill and diplomacy of Col. Doniphan,
who brought the negotiations to so happy
an issue. The marches of the other two
columns, under Col. Doniphan and Lieu-
tenant-colonel Jackson, and Capt. Reid,
were scarcely less arduous or astonishing ;
nor was the country over which these
passed less impracticable; for by reason
of hardship and suffering, these lost a great
number of animals and seven or eight brave
soldiers.

Thus terminated this most arduous and
difficult campaign against the Navajo In-
dians, of whom it may not be amiss to give

76

DONIPHAN'S EXPEDITION.

a brief account, as touching their manners
and habits of life.

The Navajos occupy a district of coun-
try scarcely less in extent than the State
of Missouri. In their predatory excur-
sions they roam from 30° to 38° of north
latitude, and for the period of two hundred
and fifty years, have with impunity, except
in one or two instances, ravaged the whole
Mexican frontier from Soccorro to the val-
ley of Taos, plundering and destroying ac-
cording as dieir caprices prompted them.
Their strong places of retreat are in the
Cordilleras, and that entire range of high
lands which divides the waters of the Gila
and Colorado of the west from those of
the Del Norte. They stretch from the
borders of New Mexico on the east, to the
settlements of California on the west.
They are supreme lords of this mountain
country ; and, like the Asiatic Tartars,
have no fixed abodes, but follow their
flocks. Upon these, and the plunder they
secure in their frequent incursions upon
the New Mexican villages, they subsist
themselves entirely. They are not ad-
dicted to the chase, except where the game
may be taken on horseback. The bold
and fearless character of the Navajos, to-
gether with the magnificent mountain
scenery of the country which they inhabit,
awakens in the mind reflections not unlike
those which any one is apt to entertain of
the Highlanders and highlands of Scotland,
from reading the Scottish bards.

Mr. Thorpe, upon the authority of Col.
Doniphan, thus alludes to the tribe of Amer-
ican Tartars : " The Navajo Indians are
a warlike people ; have no towns, houses,
or lodges ; they live in the open air, or on
horseback, and are remarkably wealthy,
having immense herds of horses, cattle, and
sheep. They are celebrated for their in-
telligence and good order. They treat
their women with great attention, consider
them equals, and relieve them from the
drudgery of menial work. They are hand-
some, well made, and in every respect a
highly civilized people, being as a nation,
of a higher order of beings than the mass
of their neighbors, the Mexicans. About
the time Col. Doniphan made his treaty,
a division of his command was entirely out
of provisions : the Navajos supplied its
wants with liberality."

The art and skill which they possess in
manufacturing woolen fabrics, (the texture
of which is so dense and fine as to be im-

pervious to water,) and apparently with
such limited means, is really matter of as-
tonishment. The Navajos can easily mus-
ter fifteen hundred warriors for battle ; and
their aggregate numbers cannot be less than
twelve thousand. They are certainly the
noblest of the American aborigines.

Black-tailed Deer.

CHAPTER XII.

Gejtetial Keaiint.y's march to California — Passes
the Del Norte at Alburquerque — Arrival at Soc-
corro— The Alcalde — Kit Carson — The Express
— Capt. Burgwin sent back — Lieut. Ingalls —
Apaches — The Copper mines — Red Sleeve — Sier-
ra del Buso — Difficulties — The Gilans — Lieut.
Davidson — Hall of Montezuma — The Pimo vil-
lages.

The manner in which Gen. Kearney
settled the affairs, bo-h civil and military,
in New Mexico, and how the forces were
disposed in different parts of that country
for the preserving of good order, tranquil-
lity, and subordination among the malcon-
tents, has been related in the previous-
chapters. It now remains to speak of
Gen. Kearney's stupendous march over
the southern spurs of the Cordilleras to
the settlements of California.

On the 25th of September, Gen. Kear-
ney left Santa Fe and commenced his great
march for the distant shores of the Pacific,
taking with him his staff officers, three
hundred of the 1st dragoons, baggage and
provision wagons, and about sixty-five
days' provision.

The dragoons were commanded by cap-

DONIPHAN'S EXPEDITION.

77

■tains, (now Major) Sumner,* Cooke,
Moore, Burgwin, and Lieut. Noble, in
place of Capt. Allen. Their horses were
now sent back to Fort Leavenworth, and
mules substituted in their stead, as it was
believed this animal possessed more endu-
rance, and was better adapted to the travel
through a dry, mountainous country, most-
ly destitute of water and grass, than the
horse. The general left orders at Santa
Fe for Capt. Hudson's California Rangers,
and the battalion of Mormons under Lieu-
tenant-colonel Allen, to succeed him on the
march a? soon as the latter corps should
arrive at that place.

The general proceeded this day no fur-
ther than Major Sumner's grazing encamp-
ment on Santa Fe creek. Grass and good
rspring water were obtained in sufficient
quantities for the night's use. The next
morning the ox teams, and then the mule
teams, as was the usual practice of the
army, started on the way by daylight; for
these necessarily travel slower than moun-
ted men. The country during this day's
march was thinly covered with grama grass
and occasional cedar shrubs, betokening
the greatest sterility. Several mules be-
ing missing, and two wagons broken down,
they encamped on the bank of the Del
Norte, near San Filipe, where they spent
the night, during which, some of their
mules broke loose, and depredated upon
the neighboring cornfields. The com-
plaints of the Pueblos were silenced by
the payment of damages.

This column now moved slowly down
the valley of the Del Norte, passing through
Algodones, Bernalillo, Sandia, Albur-
querque, where crossing the river and pro-
ceeding about eight miles further, the gen-
eral pitched his camp, on the 29th, near
the village Pajarrito. Here owing to the
scarcity of timber, the soldiers were com-
pelled to buy fuel with which to cook their
suppers. "A few days previous to this,
and shortly after three companies of vol-
unteers crossed the river on their way to
Cebolleta," observes Capt. Johnston, "a
party of Navajos ctossed at this point, and
killed eight Mexicans on the east bank of
the Del Norte." Here, observes the same
author, "the sand-drifts in various places
had accumulated into hills. Drifting sand
seems to adhere to its own kindred mate-

* Major Sumner subsequently rendered important
«rvice at the battles of Churubusco and Chapulte-
pec

rial. It is fortunate that it is so. This
country would otherwise be impassable as
well as uninhabitable. The inhabitable
portion of New Mexico is confined to the
immediate borders of the streams. The
bottoms of the Del Norte are about one
mile and a half wide on an average so far
down, and are elevated but a few feet
above the level of the running water. The
Del Norte is rapid and regular, and its
waters can be tapped at any point without
a dam. so that irrigation is carried on suc-
cessfully. It remains for greater improve-
ments in this respect to develop the re-
sources of the country. A large canal
along the base of the hills might carry all
the waters of the Del Norte, and be a
means of transportation, while its surplus
water could be employed in the winter for
tilling reservoirs, and during the summer to
convey water directly upon the fields. In
this way the country could be made to sup-
port ten times its present population. —
The rains of this country all fall upon the
mountain-tops, and the valleys are thus de-
pendent upon irrigation, as the water only
reaches them in the big drains of nature. —
From our camp, during the night, we could
see upon the distant hills the camp-fires of
the shepherds who lead their flocks afar
from their habitations."

From thence this column marched, in
three days, about thirty-six miles, passing
through Pajarrito, Padillas, Isleta, Sineca,
Lunas, Belen, Sabinaz, and encamped op-
posite La Joya ; during which some por-
tions of the country were under a high
state of cultivation, while in other places the
earth was entirely bare, or covered by
white efflorescences of soda. The river
was occasionally skirted by clusters and
groves of alamas. Here the soldiers took
some fine turtle and cat-fish out of the Del
Norte, upon which they feasted sumptu-
ously during the night.

The next day, which was the 3d of Oc-
tober, the general lay in camp, awaiting
the arrival of the Mexican car etas and
the ox-teams which had fallen one day
in the rear. "During the day, an ex-
press came in from Polvadera, twelve
miles down the river, informing the general
that the Navajos had attacked the village,
and he had been sent by the Alcalde to
bring the artillery, where they were still
fighting when he left. Capt. Moore was
sent with company (C) in defence of the
Mexicans, and orders were sent to-day t«»

78

LIEUT. KIT. CARSON.

Col. Doniphan [at Santa Fe]
to make a campaign into the
Navajo country."

The following day the
general came to Polvadera,
where he learned from Capt.
Moore that about one hun-
dred Nav.ijos had visited the
place and driven off into the
mountains a great quantity
of stock ; but that no batde
had t iken place, as they ap-
peared mutually to dread
each other. "The general
here gave permission to the
people of New Mexico, liv-
ing on the Rio Abarjo, to
march ag.unst the Navajos in retalia-
tion for the many outrages they had
received at their hands." Thus it will ap-
pear, that the Pueblos who offered their
services to Lieutenant-colonel Jackson be-
fore arriving at Cebolleta, and which were
rejected, were not acting without instruc-
tions from the head of the government.

Thence on the 5th, the march was con-
tinued through Limitar, Soccorro, and
Huertus. It was at Soccorro the general
took possession of certain mules, of which
the Alcalde had deprived the legal owners
in consequence of their carrying on con-
traband trade with the Apaches, and which
he claimed as the l'ightful perquisites of
his office. They now became the proper-
ty of the American government, and were
appropriated accordingly. The American
army had not, hitherto, visited any of the
settlements thus far south in the great Del
Norte valley. Tiie inhabitants therefore
gazed with astonishment and admiration
upon an army passing orderly, and silently
through the country ; abstaining from acts
of violence and outrage, as though it were
in the country of an ally.

Thence having progressed, on the 6th,
about three miles, this column was met by
Lieutenant Kit. Carson with a party of fif-
teen men (among them, six Delaware In-
dians) direct, on express, from Monterey,
with sealed dispatches for Washington. —
He represented California as being in
quiet possession of the Americans. The
general then said — "Lieutenant i you have
just passed over the country we intend to
traverse, and you are well acquainted with
it : we want you to go back with us as
our guide, and pilot us through the moun-
tains and deserts." Carson replied — "I

Mexican Cart.

| have pledged myself to go to Washington,
j and I cannot think of neglecting to fulfil
that promise." The general then said —
"I will relieve you of all responsibility,
and entrust the mail in the hands of a safe
person, who will carry it on speedily."
Carson finally consenting, "turned his face-
to the westward again, just as he was on
the eve of entering the settlements after his
arduous trip, and when he had set his
hopes on seeing his family. It requires a
brave man to give up his private feelings
thus for the public good ; Carson is one
such."

Carson's party were not till then ap-
prised of the conquest of New Mexico by
the American troops, and therefore, al-
though they had lost most of their animals,
intended, if the New Mexicans should
prove hostile, to make as speedy a transit
across that country as possible, during
which they counted on procuring such an
outfit, and supply of provisions as wculd
enable them to pass the plains, and reach
the States. The column now moved on
ten miles, encamping in a beautiful cotton-
wood grove, where the general issued or-
ders, reducing Ids command to one hundred
men. California being in quiet possession
of the Americans, there appeared to be no
advantage in carrying a strong force to that
distant country. The rest of the com-
mand was now put under requisition to
supply these with the best possible outfit
for the long and arduous campaign. The
new organization for the expedition stood
thus : General Kearney with his aids-de-
camp, Captains Turner and Johnston ;
Major Swords, quartermaster; Griffin, as-
sistant surgeon; Lieutenants Warner and
Emory, topographical engineers; and two

DONIPHAN'S EXPEDITION.

79

companies of the 1st dragoons, (fifty men
each) commanded by Captain Moore and
Lieutenant Hammond, including the section
of mountain howitzers under Lieutenant
Davidson, each company being furnished
with three wagons, drawn by eight stout
mules.

This evening the Apaches brought unto
the general four young men as guides.—
Their geographical knowledge was exten-
sive and accurate, yet they could not tell
what r mte was practicable for wagons. —
Fitzpatrick was dispatched to Santa Fe, and
thence to Fort Leavenworth, with the mail
from California. The other three compa-
nies of the 1st. dragoons, and the principal
part of the baggage train were sent back
under Major Sumner, to winter at Albur-
querque.

From thence in three days' march they
mads fif y miles, crossed the river and en-
camped south-west of the Jornada moun-
tain, which is a heap of volcanic cinders
and igneous rocks ; during which they
passed much rough road, where the rocks,
asperities and thickets of mezquite, render-
ed it necessary to send in advance a pioneer
party with axes and picks to clear the way.
The wagons progressed slowly ; some of
them were already broken, and many of
the mules began to fail. The general de-
termined to send from this place to Major
Sumner for mules to haul the six wagons
back to the valley of the Del Norte, and
resolved to' resort at once to pack-mules
and sumpter-horses as a means of trans-
porting his baggage and provisions, for he
now foresaw the route would be imprac-
ticable to e'ther light carriages or heavy
w&gons.

Accordingly Corporal Clapin and one
Mexican, his name Zones, were dispatched
for ihe pi -pose, about midnight, with or-
ders to rile ti Major Sumner's camp, sixty
miles, wi:hout slopping. This they did.
Meanwhile Captain Cooke was employed
in opening a road for the howitzers and
pack animals. The next four days they
remained in camp, awaiting the arrival of
the mules and pack-saddles.

At this p'tinton the Del Norte were dis-
covered signs of the otter, the catamount,
the w '.Id-cat, the racoon, the deer and the
bear ; also of the crane, the duck, the goose,
the plover, and the California quail. This
latter differs from the quail of the United
States, the male having a dark bluish, and
the female a reddish plumage. On the 13 th

Lieutenant Ingalls came up, bringing the
pack-saddles and the United States' mail,
containing general orders for General Kear-
ney, and other letters and papers. These
were answered, and all future communica-
tion with the States closed, for they had
now passed beyond the reach of mail facil-
ities.

On the 15th, this little army struck off
from the Rio Del Norte in a south-westerly
direction, ascending at once 200 feet (o an
elevated plain, intersected by numerous
deep ravines, and dashing mountain streams,
running through great chasms, and filled
with the finest fish. Having completed a
progress of twenty-four miles, over a coun-
try where the hills were capped with iron-
colored, basaltic rocks, and the valleys and
margins of the streams beautified with a
new caste of tropical walnut, oak, hackber-
ry, birch and mezquite, the men encamped
on a mountain rivulet, cooked their suppers
and staid for the night.

Marching the next two days they passed
over a beautiful country, watered by fresh,
leaping, mountain streams, issuing from the
southern spurs of the Sierra de los Mim-
bres, bordered and shaded by a small growth
of live-oak, walnut, acacia, grape-vines, can-
issa and Spanish bayonet, and also fringed
by the richest growth of grama grass, and
came to the river Minifres, about three miles
beyond which they encamped on a small
creek, in a cedar grove, near heaps of vol-
canic glass and igneous rocks, where they
obtained a plentiful supply of fine grama
grass for their stock. Here they rested for
the night.

The next day the march was continued^
Smoking fires were made on the tops of
the hills near the way, as friendly signals to
invite the Apaches into camp. At sunset
they arrived at the celebrated copper mine
in the northern part of the State of Chihua-
hua, which Capt. Johnston thus describes :

" The veins of sulphuret of copper run
through a whitish, silicious rock, like the
blue veins running through white marble;
they vary in their knees, but traverse the
whole substance. The rock breaks easily ;
and the pick appears to be the only tool
used formerly. Occasional veins of pure
copper, very yellow from .the quantity of
gold it contains, traverse the whole mass.
I saw in the rollers lying over the mine
masses of the blue limestone, supposed to
be cretacious : the water had filled many
of the abandoned chambers of the mine ;

80

COPPER MINE— RED SLEEVE.

in others, the flies had perched themselves
in great numbers, 1o pass the winter. The
fort, which was erected to defend the mines,
was built in shape of an equilateral tiiangle,
with round towers at the corners ; it was
built of adobe, with walls four feet thick.
The fort was in tolerable preservation ;
some remains of the furnaces were left, and
piles of cinders ; but no idea could be form-
ed of the manner of smelling the ore, ex-
cept that charcoal, in quantities, was used.
Several hundred dollars' worth of ore had
been got ready for smelting, when the place
was abandoned. McKnight, who was nine
years a prisoner in Chihuahua, made a for-
tune here, and abandoned the mines in con-
sequence of the Apache Indians cutting off
his supplies. At one time they took eighty
pack mules from him. The mine is very
extensive, and doubtless immensely valua-
ble. Water is abundant, and pasture fine,
and many lands which will furnish bread-
stuffs by cultivation. "Wood is very abun-
dant, and particularly in the vicinity."

From thence, in one day's march, they
completed thirty miles, passing the San Vi-
centia Spring, and the high rocky ridges
that separate the waters of the gulf of Mex-
ico from the gulf of California. Several
mules failed on this march, and were aban-
doned amongst the rocks and crags.

The next morning, Red Sleeve, an Apa-
che chief, with twenty of his warriors and
some squaws, visited the camp, and gave
assurances of their friendly inteniions and
wishes. They were habited after the man-
ner of the Mexicans, with wide drawers,
moccasins turned up in front, and leggins
to the knees, with a keen dagger-knife in-
serted in the folds of the leg^in on the out-
side for convenient use in cases of sudden
assault. Their hair was long and flowed
loosely in the wind ; they mostly had no
head-dress. To turn the scorching rays
of an almost vertical sun from their faces,
and preserve their eyes, some of them used
a fantastic kind of shield, made of raw-hide
and dressed buckskin ; while others of them
employed a fan of twigs, or a buzzard's
wing, for tho same purpose. They were
armed in part with Mexican fusils, partly
with lances, and bows and arrows. The
general save Red Sleeve and two other
chiefs, papers, showing that he had held a
talk with them, and that they had promised
perpetual friendship with the Americans.

Also another Apache chief came into
camp, and harangued the general thus : —

" You have taken Santa Fe ; let us go oi>
and take Chihuahua and Sonora; we will
go with you. You fight for the soul ; we
fight for plumhr ; so we will agree per-
fectly ; their people are bad christians ; let
us chastise them as they deserve." The
general of course rejected his proposal,
and so they all went away. This day they
march was down a deep valley of rich grama
grass, watered by a cool rivulet, with high
hills and piles of volcanic rock on either
hand ; and having completed five miles,
they came to the famous river Gila, " a beau-
tiful mountain stream about thirty feet wide,
and a foot deep on the shallows, and hem-
med in by mountains ; the bottom being
not more than a mile wide. The signs of
beaver, bear, deer, and turkey, besides the
tracks of herds of Indian horses, were plain
to be seen, on the sand." Now turning
south, they advanced about two miles and
a half farther, and encamped at the base- of
a ledge of hills, with summits of dark, rag-
ged, iron-colored rocks, where the river
passes through a deep fissure or canon, im-
passable by cavalry. Here the soldiers
took some fish from the river, which were
of delicate and excellent flavor. Therefore
they feasted that night.

Thence, after eleven days, they came to
the river San Francisco, emptying into the
Gila by the left bank — during which they
passed over rough mountains of dingy rock,
and encountered the most serious opposi-
tion from the deep ravines, and chasms,
and precipitous bluffs, which every where
obstructed the way, and prevented the
march.

From the summit of these mountains,
near Sierra del Buso, a magnificent scene
opens to view. The Gila, winding its tor-
tuous way through innumerable valleys
and deep canons ; the dark, iron-colored
peaks of the mountains limiting the horizon
towards the south-westward ; and the broad
plain south of Del Buso, extending from
the Del Norte to the Gila, richly carpeted
with the grama, all exhibit a picture of a
grand and sublime nature. The whole
country appears to be a succession of val-
leys, hilis, highlands, rocky ridges, moun-
tains, and lofty peaks of granite, and black,
igneous rocks, reaching far above the clouds.
It was during their passage through one of
these mountain ranges, that one of the how-
itzers and the draught mules, tumbled down
a steep declivity in the night time, and en-
tirely disappeared in a deep chasm or ra-

DONIPHAN'S EXPEDITION.

vine, whence they were extricated by Lieu-
tenant Davidson, after much labor,, unin-
jured.

During this march they were necessita-
ted, in consequence of the rocky and pre-
cipitous ranges of mountains which fre-
quently traverse the river, and through
which the water has forced its way in deep
canons and rocky passes, to cross and re-
cross the Gila several times. On one occa-
sion they were compelled to make a detour
on the south side, of fourteen miles, to avoid
one of those deep, rocky defiles, through
which the river flows in dashing falls and
foaming cascades, utterly impassable by
man or horse. Also, in the valleys, near
the spurs and projecting points of the small-
er class of mountain ranges, the diluvion is
i-ut into immensely deep gutters and chan-
nels, which render the passage of an army
almost, impossible.

While encamped on the San Francisco,
small groups of Gilans made their appear-
ance on the tops of the distant hills and
spurs of the mountains. They made friend-
ly signals. Hereupon the Americans called
them, and sent Captain Moore and Lieu-
tenant Carson as messengers to them, bear-
ing a white flag. The messengers shook
them by the hand, and spoke to them kind-
-lv; but they could not be induced to come
into camp. The reason of their extreme
timidity towards the Americans, is said to
be this :

"They have been harshly dealt with by
Americans, in the employment of Chihua-
hua, who have hunted them, at fifty dollars
a scalp, as we would hunt wolves ; and one
American decoyed a large number of their
brethren in the rear of a wagon, to trade,
and fired a field piece among them." This
produced great havoc among them, and
lasting dread of the Americans.

From thence they passed the Gila again,
and having traveled eight miles, halted to
refresh themselves, at the head of a canon,
preparatory to commencing the march over
the Jornada, or sand plain, sixty miles in
extent, without water. Here evidences of
a former settlement were discovered, such
as a profusion of red pottery scattered over
the ground. They now, after a few hours
rest, began their passage over a tall, rugged
chain of mountains, leaving the river where
it dashed, foaming through the gorge, skirt-
ed by clustering alamos. They ascended
the mountains by an Indian trail, and, after
traveling ten miles, halted near a spring,
6

high up among the masses of rock. This
day's march was arduous. Three mules
used in drawing the artillery, failed, and
one of the howitzers got broken. So rough
and inaccessible were the ways, that Lieut.
Davidson and parly were obliged to aban-
don the howitzers, and come into camp for
a guard to protect them from injury until
the next morning. Accordingly a detail of
six men was dispatched, long after dark,
to watch over them until day-dawn, when
they were conveyed into camp. This was
near the mouth of the San Francisco.

A novel species of the cactus, which had
made its appearance on the hill sides, and
among the maguey and Spanish bayonet,
deserves to be noticed. This species,
called by the Mexicans pafcja, is some-
times thirty feet high, two feet and a half
in diameter, bears a fine fruit, and is notch-
ed with fifteen flutes, with an interior
structure of wood, corresponding to each
of the flutes.

The next morning the Apaches, in con-
siderable numbers, perched on the distant
hill tops and knobs, evinced, by friendly
signals, a desire to hold council with the
Americans. After some effort, one of
them was induced to trust himself in camp,
and given some presents ; then came
another, and another, each in turn gaining
confidence that the Americans did not
intend to capture or injure them. They
promised to conduct the general to water,
six miles further on the route, and express-
ed a desire to trade mules to the men. —
They then went away. Water was ac-
cordingly found.

" The wigwams of the Apaches, " ob-
serves Captain Johnston, "scarce peep
above the brushwood of the country, being
not more than four feet high, slightly dug
out in the centre, and the dirt thrown
around the twigs, which are rudely woven
into an oven-shape, as a canopy to the
house. A tenement of a few hours' work
is the home of a family for years, or a
day."

After a march of four days, wandering
and bewildered among the hills and rocks,
and on the desert, they again reached the
river below the canon, where they rested
and awaited the arrival of the howitzers
one day. The next day they marched
about eighteen miles, frequently crossing
the Gila, and finally encamping on the
right bank. Dark, rocky, projecting spurs
of the mountains, approach near the river,

82

HALL OF MONTEZUMA.

covered with thickets of the mezquite, unci
the creosote plant. The valley was cov-
ered in places by the fragments of broken
pottery. Some Apaches came to the tops
of the mountain peaks, and hailed the
column, displaying friendly signals. At
length they were prevailed on by Capt.
Moore to come into camp. They desired
do conciliate the Americans. They staid
one night, and having begged tobacco, went
away.

The following day they marched down
the Gila, crossing from one side to the
other not less than a dozen times in four-
teen miles, in consequence of the rough
rocky points, which extend to the stream,
rendering it impossible to pass altogether
on either side. This river, during a greater
part of its couise, runs through immensely-
deep valleys, with lofty bluffs on either
hand, or through great chasms where the
mountains close into the water's edge. In
these deep canons where the bluffs stand
perpendiuulaily, and rise to a frightful
height, the water dashes along, foaming,
and roaring, over the points of rocks,
sometimes winding tortuously, and some-
times gliding volubly and rectilineally down
the vent between the mountains. Pottery
was still discovered and the ruins of several
ancient buildings.

After a march of six miles on the 10th
of November, passing over plains which
had once sustained a dense population,
they came to an extensive ruin, one build-
ing of which, railed the "Hall of Monte-
zuma," is still in a tolerable state of
preservation. This building was fifty feet
long, forty wide, and had been four stories
high, but the floors and the roof had been
burned out. The joists were made of
round beams four feet in diameter. It had
four entrances, — north, east, south and
west. The walls were built of sun-dried
brick, cemented with natural lime, which
abounds in the adjacent country, and were
four feet thick, having a curved inclination
inwards towards the top, being smoothed
outside and plastered inside. About one
hundred and fifty yards from this building
to the northward is a terrace one hundred
yards long and seventy wide, elevated
about five feet. Upon this is a pyramid.
eight feet high and twenty-live yards square
at the top. From the top of this, which
had no doubt been used as a watch tower,
the vast plains to the west and north-east
for more than fifteen miles, lie in plain

view. These lands had once been in cul-
tivation, and the remains of a large ascequia,
or irrigating canal, could be distinctly tra-
ced along the range of dilapidated houses.

About the same day they came to the
Pimo vil'ages on the south side of the Gila.
Captain Johnston observes: '-Their an-
swer to Carson when he went up and asked
for provisions was, 'Bread is to eat, not to
sell — take what you want.' The general
asked a Pimo who made the house I had
seen. 'It is the Casa de Montezuma,' said
he, 'It was built by the son of a most beau-
tiful woman, who once dwelt in yon moun-
tain. She was fair, and all the handsome
men came to court her ; but in vain. —
When they came they paid tribute, and
out of this small store she fed all people in
times of famine, and it did not diminish. —
At last as she lay asleep a drop of rain fell
upon her navel, and she became pregnant,
and brought forth a son, who was the
builder of all these houses.'

"He appeared unwilling to discourse fur-
ther about them, as though some melan-
choly fate had befallen the people who for-
merly inhabited them. These were his
ancestors. At length, observing that there
were a great many similar buildings in t':e
north; south and west, he was silent. —
Some other Pimos Cocomiracopas visited
the camp. Messengers were now sent into
their villages to purchase melons, fruits and
provisions. These soon came, although
the distance was several miles. They
wanted white beads for what they had to
sell, and knew the value of money. Seeing
us eating, the interpreter told the general
that he had tasted the liquor of Sonora
and New Mexico, and would like to taste
a sample of that of the United States. —
The dog had a liquorish tioth, and when
given a drink of French brandy, pro-
nounced it better than any he had ever tas-
ted. The Mirocopa messenger came to
ask the general what his business was, and
where he was going? he said his people
were at peace with all the world, except
some of their neighbors, the Apaches, and
diey did not desire any more enemies.—
He was of course told to say to his chief
that our object was merely to pass peace-
ably through their country : that we had
heard a great deal pf the Pimos ; and knew
ihem to be a good people."

These Pimos approached the Americans
with the greatest confidence and suavity of
manners, possessing a natural grace of car-

DONIPHAN'S EXPEDITION.

83

riage, great good humor and unbounded lo-
quacity. They are a virtuous, honest, and
industrious race, and subsist entirely by
agriculture and grazing, and clothe them-
selves with woolen and cotton fabrics of
their own manufacture. The Pimos and
Cocomiracopas at present live neighbors to
each other, the latter having recently
migrated from the mouth of the Gila,
and the Colorado. They are distinct
races, and speak different tongues. —
These together with the Miracopas, num-
ber more than four thousand souls.

CHAPTER XIII.

Barukbttt — Fable of the Pimos — Arrival at the
Colorado — Mexican papers intercepted — The Jor-
naJa of ninety miles — Horse-flesh — The Mulada
— Capt. Gillespie — Battle of San Pascual — Gen.
Kearney's official report.

"On the morning of the 12th," says
Capt. Johnston, "we awoke to heir the
crowing of the cock and the baying of the
watch-dog, reminding us of civilization
afar off in the green valleys of our couiitiy."
Leaving some mules with the chief liar-
rebiitt, ihey marched down through the
settlements of the Pimos and Cocomiraco-
pas, all of which are on the south side of
the Gila, and having completed a distance
of fifteen miles, encamped near the base of
a mountain lying west of their villages. —
Both the houses and costume of these In-
dians are similar. Their winter lodges con-
sist of a ri'i-work of poles, about fifteen feet
in diameter, of convenient height, thatched
with twigs and straw, and covered over
with a layer of dirt, in the centre of which
they build their fires. Their summer shel-
ters are of a much more temporary nature,
being constructed after the manner of a
common arbor, covered wirh willow rods,
to obstruct the rays of the vertical sun.—
'•The fable of the Pimos is," says our
authot, '"that their first parents were
caught up to heaven, and front that time
God lost sight of them, and they wandered
to the west; that they came from the ri-
sing sun." The chief of the Pimos said
to the general "that God had placed him
over his people, and he endeavored to do
the best for them. He gave them good ad-
vice, and they had fathers and grandfathers

who gave them good advice also. They
were told to take nothing but what belonged
to them, and to ever speak the truth. —
They desired to be at peace with every
one ; therefore they would not join us or
the Mexicans in our difficulties." He shook
hands with us and bade us welcome, and
hoped wc might have good luck on our
journey. He said we would find the chief
of the Maricopas, a man like himself, and
one who gave similar counsel to his people.

The entire plains adjacent, are suscepti-
ble of irrigation, and have once sustained
a numerous population, as is evidently
shown by the ruins, and the remains of pot-
tery scattered over the earth. These indi-
cations of the existence of a former race,
are still more numerous on the Salt and San
Francisco rivers.

The next morning while they lay in
camp, preparatory to commencing the march
over the Tesotal Jornada, or journey of
forty miles without water, the chiefs of the
Cocomiracopas visited the general, and
through an interpreter said : " You have
seen our people. They do not steal. —
They are perhaps better than others you
have seen. All of our people have sold
you provisions. It is good to do so when
people have commodities to exchange. If
you had come here hungry and poor, it
would have afforded us pleasure to give you
all you wanted without compensation. Our
people desire to be friendly with the Amer-
icans. "

From thence in ten days' march, follow-
ing the course of the Gila, they came to
the confluence of that stream with the Col-
orado, near which they encamped. Just
before their arrival at this place, signs of a
body of horsemen were discovered along
the river, which excited some apprehen-
sion. It was at first conjectured that it
might be Gen. Castro, on his way from
Sonora, with a body of cavalry to regain
California. Lieut. Emory with twenty
men was sent out to reconnoi:re, when pre-
sently he discovered it to be some Califor-
nians, with five hundred horses, on their"
way to Sonora. He brought a few of them
to the general, one of whom said : ••There
is a party of eight hundred armed Califor-
nians in the Pueblo de los Angeles opposed
to the Americans, and also a parly of two
hundred at San Diego, friendly to the Uni-
ted States." Another said : " The Mex-
icans at the Pueblo de los Angeles are qui-
et, and the Americans have quiet posses-

84

BATTLE OF SAN PASCUAL.

sion of the whole country. " They hoth
agreed that there were three ships-of-lhe-
line at San Diego. The next morning a
few of them were again brought into camp,
one of whom was discovered by Lieut. Em-
ory to have in his possession a package of
letters. Some of these letters were direct-
ed to Gen. Castro. The seals were bro-
ken and the letters read by Gen. Kearney.
One of the letters gave an account of an
insurrection in California, and the placing
of Don Flores at the head of the insurrec-
tionists at Pueblo de los Angeles. This
was addressed to Gen. Castro. In another
letter to a different person, it was asserted
that a body of eighty Mexican cavalry had
vanquished four hundred Americans at the
ravines between the Pueblo and San Pedro,
and captured a cannon called Teazer. —
These letters were re-sealed by Capt. Tur-
ner, and returned to the Mexican, who was
then dismissed with them. The General
now supplied his men with fresh animals,
as many of theirs by this time had failed,
in crossing the deserts and mountains.—
They now rested two days before starting
upon the desert, or Jornada, of ninety miles
without water, which lay on the route.

They passed the great Colorado of the
west, below the mouth of the Gila, which
was deep and rapid ; yet all got over safely
and began the march upon the desert,
which was continued with little intermis-
sion three days and nights, when they
came to the Camisa, where they found a
supply of water in a canon of the moun-
tains. Here they enjoyed the advantage
of a little repose. Thence they marched
over a rugged, rocky road, among hills and
mountains, and after four days came to
Warner's rancho, during which they lost
many animals, and suffered much from
hunger and fatigue, being compelled to sub-
sist a part of the time on horse flesh. —
Here again they rested.

This rancho is sixty miles from San Die-
go, and eighty from the Pueblo de los An-
geles. Learning that there was a herd of
mules fifteen miles from this place belong-
ing to Don Flores, the leader of the insur-
gents at the Pueblo, Lieut. Davidson with
twenty-seven men was dispatched bv Gen.
Kearney at dark, with instructions to pro-
cure a sufficient number of horses and
mules to remount the men. About this
time, Mr. Stokes, an Englishman, came to
Gen. Kearney, and informed him "that
Commodore Stockton, with the greater

part of his naval force, was at San Diego."
The general immediately dispatched a let-
ter to the commodore, informing him of
his arrival in the country, and expressing
his intention lo march directly to San Die-
£0. The next day Lieut. Davidson and
Carson returned, having in possession a
large mvlculrr. In a short time a party of
French and Englishmen, and a Chilian,
came to claim their slock, averring their in-
tention to leave the country. The general
restored them a portion of the animals, and
put the remainder into service.

From thence on the 4th of December
they advanced fifteen miles, and came to
the old mission of Santa Isabella, en mult
to San Diego, where it was General Kear-
ney's intention to communicate with the
naval force under Commodore Stockton ;
and "on the 5th " observes Mr. Stanley,
who accompanied Gen. Kearney on this
expedition, " we met Capt. Gillespie and
Lieut. Bead of the United States' navy with
an escort of thirty-five men. After making
a late camp, Gen. Kearney heard that an
armed hody of Californians was encamped
about nine miles from us. Lieut. Ham-
mond, with a small party, was sent out to
reconnoitre. He returned about twelve
o'clock, with intelligence that the camp was
in the valley of San Pasrual, but learned
nothing of the extent of ihe force, although
it was thought to be about one hundred and
sixty. At two o'clock on the morning of
the 6th the reveille sounded, and at three
our force was formed in the order of battle
and (he march resumed. We arrived about
daylight at the valley. The enemy were
encamped about a mile from the declivity
of the mountain over which we came, and
as Lieut. Hammond had been discovered on
the night previous, the Californians were
waiting in their saddles for our approach.

"From a misapprehension of an order,
the charge was not made hy our whole
force, or with as much precision as was de-
sirable, but the Californians retreated on
firing a single volley, to an open plan about
half a mile distant. Capt. Johnston and
one private were killed in this charge.
The retreat of the enemy was followed with
spirit by our troops, skirmishing the dis-
tance of half a mile. When they reached
the plains, our force was somewhat scat-
tered by the pursuit. The Californians,
taking advantage of this disorganization,
fought with desperation, making great hav-
oc with their lances. It was a real hand-

DONIPHAN'S fcArSDITION.

85

to-hand fight, and lasted half an hour. —
They were, however, driven from the field,
with what loss we could not learn. Our
loss was severe, seventeen being killed and
fourteen wounded. Among the killed were
Capt. Johnston, who led the charge of the
advance guard, Cant. Benj. Moore and
Lieut. Hammond. Gen. Kearney, Capt.
Gillespie and Lieut. Wm, II. Warner were
slightly wounded. Several non-commis-
sioned officers were killed.

" We encamped on the field and collect-
ed the dead. At first, General Kearney
thought to move on the same day. The
dead were lashed on mules, and remained
two hours, or more, in that posture. It
was a sad and melancholy picture. We
soon found, however, that our wounded
were unable to travel. The mules were
released of their packs, and the men enga-
ged in fortifying the place for the night.
During the day the enemy were in sight,
curveting their horses, keeping our camp in
constant excitement. Three of Capt. Gil-
lespie's volunteers started with dispatches
to Commodore Stockton. The dead were
buried at night, and ambulances made for
the wounded ; and the next morning we
started in face of the enemy's spies, being
then about thirty-eight miles from San Die-
go. Li our march we were constantly ex-
pecting an attack — spies could be seen on
the top of every hill — but with a force of
one hundred men, many of whom were oc-
cupied with the care of the wounded, we
did not leave our trail.

" We had traveled about seven miles,
■when, just before sunset we were again at-
tacked. The enemy came charging down
a valley ; about one hundred men well
mounted. They were about dividing their
force, probably with a view of attacking us
in front and rear, when Gen. Kearney or-
dered his men to take possession of a hill
on our left. The enemy seeing the move-
ment, struck for the same point, reaching it
before us, and as we ascended, they were
pouring a very spirited fire upon us from
behind the rocks. They were soon driven
from the. hill, only one or two being wound-
ed on our side. Here, therefore, we were
compelled to ercamp, and also to destroy
the most cumbersome of our camp equip-
age. A white flag was sent to Seiior Pico,
the Californian commandant, and an ex-
change of prisoners effected — our bearers
of dispatches having been intercepted by
the enemy. We were more fortunate in

getting an express through to San Diego for
a reinforcement, and at the expiration of
four days, during which we lived on the
meat of mules, horses and colts, without
bread or other condiment, we were joined
by a reinforcement of two hundred men,
and on the 11th of December resumed our
march. Not a Californian was to be seen,
as we proceeded, and on the 12th we reach-
ed San Diego, and received from the offi-
cers a hearty welcome;" having completed
a march of one thousand and ninety miles
from Santa Fe.

Another account makes the American
loss twenty killed and fifteen wounded ;
among the former were Capts. Moore and
Johnston, and Lieut. Hammond of the 1st
dragoons ; Sergeants Moore, Whitehurst,
and Cox, and Corporals Clapin and West,
and ten privates of the 1st dragoons; one
private of the topographical engineers, and
one volunteer. ' The wounded were Gen.
Kearney; Lieut. Warner, of the topogra-
phical engineers ; Capts. Gillespie and
Gibson of the volunteers, and Mr. Robi-
dou, interpreter, and ten privates of the
1st dragoons. Gen. Kearney's official ac-
count of this hard fought action is as fol-
lows.

'■ As the day dawned on the 6th of December, we
approached the enemy, (one hundred and sixty,) at
San Pascual, who was already in the saddle, when
Captain Johnston made a furious charge upon them
with his advance guard, and was in a short time after
supported by the dragoons ; soon after which the
enemy gave way, having kept up, from the beginning,
a continual fire upon us. Upon the retreat of the
enemy, Captain Moore led off rapidly in pursuit,
accompanied by the dragoons, mounted on horses,
and was followed, though slowly, by the others on
their tired mules: the enemy were mounted, and
among the best horsemen in the world ; after retreat-
ing about half a mile, and seeing an interval be-
tween Captain Moore with his advance, and the
dragoons coming to his support, rallied their whole
force, charged with their lances, and on account of
their greatly superior numbers, but few of us in front
remained untouched ; for five minutes they held the
ground from us, when our men coming up, we again
drove them, and they fled from the field, not to re-
turn to it, which we occupied and encamped upon.

" A most melancholy duty now remains for me : —
it is to report the death of .my aid-de-camp, Captain
Johnston, who was shot dead at the commencement
of the action ; of Captain Moore, who was lanced
just previous to the final retreat of the enemy ; and
cf Lieutenant Hammond, also lanced, and who sur-
vived but a few hours. We had also killed, two
sergeants, two corporals, and ten privates of the 1st
dragoons, one private of the volunteers, and one
man, an engage in the topographical department.
Our howitzers were not brought into action. The
enemy proved to be a party of about one hundred
and sixty Californians, under command of Andrea

86

THE BEAR A.ND THE STAR.

Pico, brother of the late governor; the number of
th.'ir dead and wounded must have been considera-
ble, though I had no means of ascertaining how
many, as just previous to their final retreat, they
carried off all except six."

After the strife of the battle was over
the surgeon came to General Kearney, who
sat bleeding at three wounds, and offered
to afford him all the relief that was in his
power. " First go and dress the wounds
of the soldiers," said he, " who require
attention more than I do, and when you
have done, then come to me." The
surgeon proceeded to execute the order ;
but while busily employed, he looked
around and saw the general fall backwards,
exhausted by loss of blood. The surgeon
immediately ran to his support, raised him
from the ground, restored him, and dressed
his wounds.

CHAPTER XIV.

Cot. Stevenson — Com. Sloal and Lieutenant-colo-
nel Fremont — Gen. Castro — Com. Stockton —
The Revolution in California — Mr. Talbot — The
insurgents under Flores and Pico — Gen. Kearney
marches upon Angeles — Battles of San Gabriel
and the Mesa — Capital recovered — The Capitu-
lation.

It is not proposed in this chapter, to give
a historical account of the movements of the
Pacific squadron, commanded by Commo-
dores Sloal and Stockton, in taking posses-
sion of the coast of California; nor indeed
of the land forces under Lieutenant-colonel
Fremont, except so far as may serve to
illustrate the operations of Gen. Kearney
while in that country.

In the instructions furnished Gen. Kear-
ney by the War Department on the 12th
of September, 1846, he was assured that
a regiment of volunteers had been raised
in the State of New York, commanded by
Col. J. D. Stevenson, whose term of ser-
vice would not expire until the close of
the war with Mexico, which would imme-
diately sail for California, and would, when
arrived there, constitute a portion of his
command, to act as land forces. The Sec-
retary of War, writing to General Kearney,
under date of June 3d, 1846, further adds,
" It is expected that the naval forces of the
United States, which are now, or soon will
be in the Pacific, will be in possession of
ah the towns on the sea-coast, and will co-

operate with you in the conquest of Cali-
fornia. Arms, ordnance, munitions of war,
and provisions, to be used in that country,
will be sent by sea to our squadron, in the
Pacific, for the use of the land forces." A
company of United States' artillery, com-
manded b)r Captain Tompkins, aided by
Lieutenant Halleck, engineer, was also dis-
patched to the bay of Monterey, to co-ope-
rate with General Kearney and the marine
forces in holding possession of California.
In the monlh of July, 1846, Commo-
dore John D. Sloat, commanding the Uni-
ted States' Naval forces in the Pacific
ocean, acting in anticipation of instructions
from the Navy Department, and on his own
responsibility and clear conception of duty
as a naval officer, (having on the 7th heard
of the existence of war between the Uni-
ted States and Mexico,) anchored in the
bay of Monterey, with the Pacific squad-
ron, and in less than twenty-four hours
raised the American flag in the old capital
of the country. The gallant marines, led
on by the Commodore, proceeded on land,
invested the cily, and, without bloodshed
or strenuous opposition, took formal pos-
session in the name of the government of
the United States.

About the same period a corps of volun-
teers, consisting of American emigrants to
California, commanded by General Ide and
Captain Grigsby, raised the independent
flag of the " Bear and the Star, " in the
settlements on the Sacramento, and held
that part of the province in quiet posses-
sion. Their intention was to establ sh an
independent government of their own, in
the event the United States' forces did not
co-operate with them in wresting the coun-
try from the hands of the haughty Mexi-
cans. These were styled the bear men.

Lieutenant-colonel Fremont was, at this
period, on the Bay of San Francisco, near
the settlements of Sonoma, in command of
i the topographical corps, which had gone
I out from Mo early in 1846, and a few Cal-
j ifornia volunteers. Hearing of the capture
; of Monterey, he ventured to raise the stan-
dard of his country, that he might co-ope-
rate with the naval forces in the peaceable
conquest of California. Thus was Cali-
fornia bloodlesdy and peaceably commen-
ced to be revolutionized, and placed under
the American flag, and American protec-
tion. The cities and settlements were
soon occupied by the American arms, and
the inhabitants, at first, treated with a cle-

DONIPHAN'S EXPEDITION.

87

mency and consideration which very much
concdiated and disposed them to desire a
peace, and connection with the Unite:]
States. They were accordingly protected
in their persons and properly in the amplest
mauier.

This brilliant and highly important ser-
vice having been rendered the country in a
manner that met the cordial approval of
the Executive, Commodore Sloat, whose
modesty is only equalled by his gallantry,
returned to the United States, leaving Com-
modore R. F. Stockton commander-in-chief
of the coast, and of the bays and harbors.
Commodore Stockton, in his instructions
from the Navy Department, was permitted
to establish in California, a temporary, ci-
vil government, until the same should be
abrogated or modified by competent author-
ity. It may not be amiss in this connec-
tion t) o' serve, that Commodore Sloat had
been instructed by Mr. Bancroft, Secretary
of the Navy, to blockade and hold posses-
sion of the bays and ports of San Francis-
co, Monterey, an J San Diego; and, if he
deem d it advisable, also to hold the ports
of Guy mas, Mazatlan and Acapulco in a
state of vigorous blockade. These instruc-
tions descended to Commodore Stockton,
his successor, in the command of the Pa-
cific naval forces.

Commodore R. F. Stockton, and Lieu-
tenant-colonel J. C. Fremont completed
the conquest, which the gallant and modest
Commodore John D. Sloat and his ma-
rines, had so gloriously and auspiciously
begun. In a short time the whole of Cal-
ifornia was in the hands of the Americans,
and the American flag waved from every
important place in the country. The civil
functions of the government were at an
end, and the governor and his forces dis-
persed amongst the mountains and deserts.
Gen. Castro, commander-in-chief, with a
small body of men escaped to Sonora, hav-
ing addressed the subjoined proclamation
to the Californians.

''Fellow citizens;— I carry away my
heart full of the heaviest weight in taking
leave of you. I go out of the country in
which I was born, but in the hope of re-
turning to destroy the slavery in which I
leave you. I will come the day in which
our unfortunate country can chastise ex-
emplarily an usurpation so rapacious and
so unjust, and in the face of the world
exact satisfact'ons for its wrongs. My
friends, I confide in your loyalty and pa-

triotsm ; and in proof of the confidence
which you merit from me, I leave to you
my wife and innocent children. They
have no fortune, and are even without
means of subsisting. 1 leave them to your
favor and guidance, considering that I lose
all (o save national honor.

" I acknowledge the faithfulness that
you have constantly manifested towards
me. I believe it is right for me io exhort
you again not to abandon trie sentiments
of fidelity for the mother country; pre-
serve in your bosoms the holy fire of li-
berty, and the day of vengeance will come.
Never deny the Mexican name. Fellow-
citizens, adieu! In taking leave of you I
feel my soul inundated with bitterness,
considering I leave you as slaves ; but the
glorious day will come when you will
break your chains and again be free and in-
dependent. God and Liberty."

Commodore Stockton next proceeded
with a part of his force to San Pedro,
where, disembarking them, he formed a
junction with Lieutenant-colonel Fremont,
in command of a. small body of California
volunteers, who had been recently enrolled
for the service. With their united forces
they now marched to the Pueblo de los
Angeles, the new capital of the country.
Upon their approach Gen. Castro and his
troops fled without offering the slightest
resistance. The Americans entered the
city, and raised the flag of the " stars and
stripes. " Commodore Stockton, having
issued a proclamation to the people of
California, setting forth certain obnoxious
ordinances and regulations, which subse-
quently proved the ground of the attempted
revolution of Flores and Pico, and leaving
Capt. Gillespie with nineteen volunteers to
garrison the capital, returned to San Pedro.
Not long afterwards the revolution break-
ing out, the insurgents compelled Capt.
Gillespie to capitulate, and retire with his
slender force to San Pedro. It is due to
Capt. Gillespie, however, to state that the
capitulation, under the circumstances, was
highly honorable to him and his men. — ■
The forces of the enemy were overwhelm-
ing. The capital was now repossessed by
the Californians.

Meanwhile Mr. Talbot, of the topo-
graphical corps, under Lieutenant-colonel
Fremont, who had been stationed with
sixteen men at Santa Barbara, was hotly
besieged by an insurrectionary force, for a
considerable time. Finally, however, he

88

BATTLE OF SAN GABRIEL.

and his men, with much peril and difficulty,
effected their escape to the mountains.
After wandering among the rocks and
fastnesses for several days, and suffering
incredibly from fatigue, hunger, and other
privations, they arrived at Monterey in the
greatest destitution.

Not far from this period Commodore
Stockton, leaving a sufficient garrison in
Monterey, and a part of the fleet in the
bay, sailed with three ships-of-war for the
harbor of San Diego, with the view of
marching thence against the insurgents,
who were posted in considerable numbers
at the Pueblo de los Angeles. At San
Diego, on the 12th of December, he form-
ed a junction of his marine and volunteer
forces with the overland detachment of the
1st dragoons of the United States' army,
under immediate command of General
Kearney. The malcontents had concen-
trated at Angeles, and armed themselves,
with the design of recovering the country
from the hands of the Americans. They
were six hundred strong, and were headed
by Don Mariana Flores and Don Andres
Pico, the latter of whom commanded the
Californians on the 6th of December in
the action at San Pascual. Having com-
pelled the garrison, which was stationed at
Angeles upon the conquest of the countty,
to capitulate ; driven all the Americans
from the interior to the seaboard ; and
come near defeating the marine expedition
of Captain Mervine, the insurgents confi-
dently hoped to re-establish the former
power and government of California.

On the 29th of December, General
Kearney and Commodore Stockton, in
joint command of five hundred men, con-
sisting of marines, California volunteers,
a detachment of the 1st dragoons of the
United States' army, and a battery of ar-
tillery, left San Diego upon the march
against the insurgent forces at the Pueblo
de los Angeles, a distance of one hundred
and forty-rive miles. The entire force was
on foot, with the exception of about sixty
volunteer mounted riflemen, commanded
by Captain Gillespie.

On the 8th of January the insurgents
showed themselves, six hundred strong,
with four pieces of artillery, occupying
the heights, prepared to dispute the pass-
age of the river San Gabriel. General
Kearney now drew up his forces in order
of battle, passed the river under a heavy
fire from the enemy, charged the heights,

drove him from his strong position, and
gained a most signal victory. This action
lasted one hour and a half. The next day,
(the 9lh,) continuing the march towards
the capital, on the plains of the Mesa, the
insurgents, having concealed their forces
and cannon under the cover of a ravine,
until the Americans were within gunshot,
opened a galling fire upon their right flank,
and at the same instant charged them in
front and rear. In a short time, however,
the insurgents were repulsed with consid-
erable loss, and driven from the field. —
The loss of the Americans on both days
was two killed and fifteen wounded ; that
of the enemy was estimated in killed and
wounded at no less than eighty-five. On
the 10th the Americans repossessed the
city without farther opposition, while (lie
bayonets and lances of the retreating in-
surgents glittered on the adjacent hills and
mountains.

Lieutenant-colonel Fremont, with his
battalion of four hundred mounted Califor-
nia volunteers, whom he had recently en-
rolled for the service in the settlements of
New Helvetia, Sonoma, and the northern
districts, had performed a march of one
hundred and twenty miles, from Santa
Barbara to San Fernando, while Gen.
Kearney was marching from San Diego,
in the hope that, the former would be able
to effect a junction with him in time to
co-operate against the malcontents. In
this expectation, however, the general was
disappointed.

After the battle of the 9th, Andres Pico,
the second in command of the insurgent*
forces, having, as some say, more than once
forfeited his parole of honor, and expect-
ing little clemency from Gen. Kearney,
escaped with a few of his adherents, and
on the 12 ih meeting Lieutenant-colonel
Fremont on his way to Angeles, effected'
with that officer, (who as yet was not fully
apprised of what had transpired) a stipula-
tion, securing immunity for his crimes. —
This treaty was afterwards approved by
the commander-in-chief, from motives of
policy. The following is Commodore
Stockton's account of the affair :

HE All QUAHTEIIS, ClUDAI) DE I.OS AnGELES, ?

January l\ih, 1847. 5

Sni : I have the honor to inform you that it has
pleased God to crown our poor efforts to jmt down
tlio rebellion, and to rctreive the credit of our arms,
with the most complete success. The insurgents
determined, with their whole force, to meet us on

DONIPHAN'S EXPEDITION.

89

our march from San Diego to this place, and to de-
cide the fute of the territory by a general battle.

Having made the best preparation I could, in the
face of a boasting and vigilant enemy, we left San
Diego on the 20th day of December, (that portion
of the insurgent army who had been watching and
annoying us, having left to join the main body,) with
about six hundred lighting men, composed of the de-
tachment from the ships, aided by General Kearney
with a detachment of sixty men on foot, from the
first regiment of United States' dragoons, and by
Capt. Gillespie, with sixty mounted riflemen.

We marched nearly one hundred and forty miles
in ten days, and found the rebels, on the 8th day of
January, in a strong position on the high bank of
the river San Gabriel, with six hundred mounted
men and four pieces of artillery , prepared to dispute
our passage across the river.

We waded through the water, dragging our guns
after us, against the galling fire of the enemy, with-
out exchanging a shot until we reached the opposite
shore, when the fight became general, and our troops
having repelled a charge of the enemy, charged up
the bank in a most gallant manner, and gained a
complete victory over the insurgent army.

The next day, on our march across the plains of
the Mesa to this place, the insurgents made another
desperate effort to save the capital and their own
necks. They were concealed with their artillery, in
a ravine, until we came within gun shot, when they
opened a brisk fire from their field-pieces on our
right flank, and at the same time charged on our
front and rear. We soon silt?nced their guns and
repelled the charge, when they fled, and permitted
us the next morning, to march into town without
any further opposition.

We have rescued the country from the hands of
the insurgents, but I fear the absence of Col. Fre-
mont's battalion of mounted riflemen will enable
most of the Mexican officers who have broken their
parole, to escape to Sonora.

I am happy to say that our loss in killed and
wounded, does not exceed twenty, whilst we are in-
formed that the enemy has lost between seventy and
eighty.

This dispatch must go immediately, and I will
await another opportunity to furnish you with the
details of these two battles, and the gallant conduct
of the officers and men under my command, with
their names.

Faithfully your obedient servant,

R. F. Stockton, Com., &c.
To the Hon. George Bancroft, Secretary of the
Navy, Washington, D. C.

Head Quarters, Ciudad de los Angeles, ~}
January \5(k, 1847. $

Sin : I have the honor to inform you of the ar-
rival of Lieutenant-colonel Fremont at this place,
with four hundred men — that some of the insurgents
have made their escape to Sonora, and that the rest
have surrendered to our arms.

Immediately after the batiles on the 8th and 9th,
they began to disperse ; and I am sorry to say that
their leader. Jose Ma. Flores. made his escape, and
that tlie others have been pardoned by a capitulation
agreed upon by Lieutenant-colonel Fremont.

Jose Ma. Flores, the commander of the insurgent
ibrces, two or three days previous to the 8th, sent
two commissioners with a flag of truce to my camp,

to make "a treaty of peace." 1 informed the com-
missioners that I could not recognise Jose Ma. Flo-
res, who had broken his parole, as an honorable man,
or as one having any rightful authority, or worthy
to be treated with — that he was a rebel in arms, and
that if I caught him I would have him shot. It
seems that not being able to negotiate with me, and
having lost the battles of the 8th and 9th, they met
Col. Fremont on the 12th instant, on his way here,,
who, not knowing what had occurred, entered into
a capitulation with them, which I now send you ;
and, although I refused to do it myself, still I have
thought it best to approve it.

The territory of California is again tranquil, and
the civil government formed by me is again in opera-
tion in the places where it was interrupted by the
insurgents.

Col. Fremont has four hundred men in his bat-
talion, which will be quite sufficient to preserve the
peace of the territory ; and I will immediately with-
draw my sailors and marines, and sail as soon as
possible for the coast of Mexico, where I hope they
will give a good account of themselves.

Faithfully, your obedient servant,

R F. Stockton, Commodore, &c.
To the Hon. George Bancroft, Secretary of the
Navy, Washington, D. C.

TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME,
GREETING :

Know ye, that in consequence of propositions of
peace, or cessation of hostilities being submitted to
me, as a commandant of the California battalion of
United States' forces, which has sofar been acceded
to by me, as to cause me to appoint a board of com-
missioners, to confer with a similar board to be ap-
pointed by the Californians ; and it requiring a little
time to close the negotiations, it is agreed upon and
ordered by me, that an entire cessation of hostili-
ties shall take place until to-morrow afternoon,
(January 13th.") and that the said Californians be
permitted to bring in their wounded to the mission
of San Fernandez, where also, if they choose, they
can remove their camp, to facilitate said negotiations.

Given under my hand and seal, this 12th day of
January, 1847. J. C. Fhemontj

Lieut.-col. U. S. Army; and Military
Commander of California.

The Commissioners appointed on the
part of Lieutenant-colonel Fremont, to set-
tle the terms of the capitulation, were
Major P. B. Reading, L. McLane, and
W. H. Russell, formerly of Missouri, —
Those selected by Andres Pico, were J.
A. Carrilo, and A". Olvera. The first arti-
cle of this capitulation required the insur-
gents to deliver up to Lieutenant-colonel
Fremont their artillery and public arms,
and peaceably return to their homes, yield
obedience to the laws of the United States,
and not again take up arms during the con-
tinuance of the war. They were also re-
quired to aid in preserving tianquillity
throughout California. In the second ar«
tide the ximerican Commissioners guar-
antied to the insurgents protection of

90

GEN. KEARNEY AND W. P. HALL.

life and property, whether on parole or
otherwise, immediately upon their comply-
ing with the conditions of the first arti-
cle. The remaining articles were unim-
portant.

The revolution of Flores was now
crushed ; the insurgents had taken refuge in
•.lie deserts and mountains, or dispersed to
their several homes ; the American flag was
again hoisted in every part of ihe province ;
and general peace and quietude once more
prevailed.

CHAPTER XV.

Gexeti\l Keajinf.t and W. P. Hall — Lieutenant-
colonel Cooke — The Mormon Battalion —
Lieutenant Abert — San Bernadino destroyed by
Apaches — The glazed plain — Arrival in Teuson
— The honest Piir.o chief — Arrival at San Diego

— Comodore Shubrick — General Kearney pro-
ceeds to Monterey — Governor Fremont — Gen-
eral Kearney and Governor Fremont — California

— Its present state — General Kearney's return
to the United States.

Having settled the affairs of the gov-
ernment at Angeles, and restored the su-
premacy of the laws wherein they had
been interrupted by the insurrectionists,
General Kearney and Commodore Stock-
ton hastily returned to San Diego, where
they arrived about the 23d of the same
month : the former marching his dis-
mounted dragoons by land, and the latter
conducting his marine forces to San Pe-
dro, and sailing thence for the port of San
Diego.

It was on this return march that General
Kearney, dismounting, walked one hun-
dred and forty-five miles with the common
soldiers, covered with dust and sweat,
having placed on his horse one of the sick
men, whose feet were worn and blistered,
and who, from exhaustion, was unable to
proceed farther.

About this time the gallant Willard P.
Hall, of the Missouri volunteers, Col.
Doniphan's regiment, and member elect to
Congress, came up, met General Kearney
in the road, and reported to him the near
approach to California of the Mormon
battalion under command of Lieutenant-
colonel Cooke. Hereupon Mr. Hall,
seeing the general (oiling in the dust with
the common soldiers, generously offered

him his charger, observing, "General ! take
my horse and ride ; I am younger than
you, and will walk." The general re-
fused, saying, "No, I thank you; I am a
soldier, and can walk better than you, as I
am accustomed to it."

On the 15th of November 1846, a small
detachment of forty-five volunteers, com-
manded by Captains Burrows and Thomp-
son, met and totally defeated two hundred
Calilbrnians on the plain of Salinas, near
Monterey, with considerable slaughter.
The loss on the side of the Americans was
four killed and two wounded : among the
former were Captain Burrows and private
Ames, of St. Louis. Missouri. About the
25th of January, 1847, and shortly after
the return of the troops from Angeles to
San Diego, Captain Emory, of the topo-
graphical corps, assistant acting adjutant
general to the overland expedition, alter the
death of Captain Johnston, sailed as bear-
er of dispatches from General Kearney to
Washington city, passing by the isthmus
of Panama.

It will be remembered that the Mormons
had not arrived at Santa Fe when General
Kearney look his departure thence for
California. Arriving shortly afterwards,
however, Captain Cooke was dispatched
from the Del Norte, below Soccorro, by
General Kearney, to conduct them, as their
lieutenant-colonel, to their destination on
the Pacific coast, in the place of Captain
Allen, who died at Fort Leavenworth. —
Their outfit being in readiness, they left
Santa Fe and commenced their march on
Sunday the 18th day of October, 1846, fol-
lowing the route of General Kearney down
the Rio Del Norte to a point twenty-five
miles below the Jornada mountain, where
they struck off westerly over the southern
spurs of the Sierra de los Mimbres. Lieu-
tenant-colonel Cooke, perceiving that these
spurs terminated abruptly, and that abtoad
plain spread out to the southward of them,
very rightly conjectured that there might be
found a pass from the Del Norte to the
Gila, without encountering a single moun-
tain. He, therefore, directed his course
about sixty miles further south than that
of General Kearney, thence striking out
across the high plain, bordered by the pre-
cipitous points of the Sierras, out of which
ilowed cool streams of delicious water.—
These streams, issuing from the mountains,
run down upon and fertilize the plain, and
lose themselves in the sand, not far distant.

DONIPHAN'S EXPEDITION.

91

Before leaving the Del Norte valley,
Lieutenant-colonel Cooke sent a part of his
baggage train, and all the sick Mormons
back to Fort Pueblo, on the Arkansas,
above Fort Bent, at which place a large
number of Mormon families were collect-
ing, with the view of emigrating to Cali-
fornia early in the spring of 1847. Accord-
ingly, an emigration of not less than nine
hundred Mormon families started from this,
and other points, including the Council
Bluffs, and are now on their way thither.

Also Lieutenant Abert, of the topogra-
phical corps, w ith a small party returned
to the United States about the same time,
passing the plains in the inclement season
of winter. Being caught in a snow storm
about the 20th of February, which con-
tinued without intermission for thirty-six
hours, some of his men froze to death, and
the Pawnees robbed him of all his mules
and other animals.

Lieutenant-colonel Cooke, with bis
troops, inw prosecuted his march over the
high plain, through an aperture in the great
"Cordilleras, finding generally water and
pasture, and meeting with no opposition on
his way. He passed the deserted village,
San Bernadino, which had once been very
rich in cattle and other herds, but was now
entirely abandoned on account of the fre-
quent and desolating incursions of the
Apaches. Thence he passed over to the
San Pedro river, down which he continued
his march for sixty miles. Thence strik-
ing off, he passed through Teuson, and
arrived at the Gila, interseciing Gen. Kear-
ney's route at the Pimo settlement.

On a certain occasion, the guides desired
Lieutenant-colonel Cooke to march from
the Ojo Vacca to Yanos in Chihuahua.
This at first he assented to, but finding
that the route urged by his guides led him
too far south, he struck directly west, and
found water after a march of twelve miles.
The next day, he inarched south-westerly,
and encamped at night without water. At
daybreak on the morning following, his
command was again in motion, and after
marching about twenty-five miles arrived
at a plain distiiutj of grass or o'dier vege-
tation, and as smooth and hard as polished
marble; upon which, neither the nails of
the shod animals, nor the iron tires of the
loaded wagons, produced the slightest im-
pression ; extending forty or fifty miles
from north to south, and two or three miles
wide. Immediately after crossing this

i hard plain, (resembling the dry bed of a
i lake) in its narrowest direction, the party
came upon springs furnishing an abun-
dance of cool and delightful water. Here
they all rejoiced and took rest.

On another occasion, when Lieutenant-
colonel Cooke and Ins party were encamp-
ed within about six miles of the little town
Teuson, in the stale of Sonora, where one
hundred and fifly dragoons and two pieces
of artillery had been stationed ; the com-
mandante having express orders from the
governor not to permit their passage, three
commissioners were sent into camp, to in-
quire into Col. Cooke's business and inten-
tions, and to ask what terms he would ex-
act of them in passing through the place.
The commissioners also entreated him not
to pass through the town, but to turn aside
and march in some other direction, assuring
him that he could do this with impunity,
and without molestation. He, however,
told them that he would require of the cora-
mandante one piece of artillery and certain
small arms, and the submission of the place ;
the arms and cannon to be restored to them
upon his departure. The commissioners
then retired.

The next morning the Lieutenant-colonel,
with his troops drawn up in order of battle,
marched directly towards the town. Upon
approaching it, he was met by a messen-
ger who said : "Sir, your terms are hard,
and such as the commandante never can
and never will accede to." Whereupon
the messenger returned. Col. Cooke now
passed the order down the lines to " load."
However, the men did not load their pieces
for very soon a great dust was seen to rise
beyond the town, and a body of horsemen
at a distance scampering off across the plain
with the utmost expedition, leaving behind
only such as were too old and helpless to
effect their escape by flight. The men now
entered the place, where they found an
abundance of wheat for iheir animals, and
some fruit and provisions to sat'sfy their
keen appetites. Therefore all now fared
well. Then they resumed the march.

Upon arriving at the Pimo villages or
settlements, the chief of this honest and
simple race of people delivered to Lieuten-
ant-colonel Cooke, a letter and a l>; le of
Indian goods, which Gen. Kearney had left
in his charge for that purpose. He also
delivered to him twenty-two mules, which,
having failed, General Kearney bad aban-
doned at different places. The Pimo In-

92

GEN. KEARNEY'S PROCLAMATION.

dians had collected these together, knowing
that Cooke's forces were to pass that way.
This is a remarkable instance of the hones-
ty and good faith of the Pinios, a very pe-
culiar and interesting race of people. " The
Sonorans," said the honest chief, " have
endeavored several times to prevail on me,
both by promises and threats, to deliver this
properly up to them- but I would let no
body have it except my friend Gen. Kear-
ney, or some of his people." Lieutenant-
colonel Cooke commended him for his strict
honesty and integrity, and told him that in
acting thus he would always enjoy the
friendship and good opinion of the Ameri-
cans. They then separated.

Now falling into Gen. Kearney's trail
they marched down the Gila, crossed the
Colorado below the confluence of the two
rivers, proceeded through the Jornada of
ninety miles in extent, and arrived at San
Diego, about the close of January, 1847,
as already related. Meanwhile Commo-
dore Shubrick arrived at Monterey on the
15th of January, on board the Indepen-
dence, and superceded Commodore Stock-
ton in command of the Pacific squadron,
and the const of California.

Gen. Kearney,* with Capt. Turner, and
Lieut. Warner of the topographical corps,
on the 2d of February went aboard the war
vessel, Cyane, and proceeded directly to
Monterey, leaving the Mormons at San
Diego, and Lieutenant-colonel Fremont in
command of the California battalion at the
Pueblo de los Angeles, as temporary gover-
nor of the country, acting under appoint-
ment from Commodore Stockton ; Angeles
now being considered the capital, and seat
of the new government.

Upon his arrival at Monterey, General
Kearney waited upon Commodore Shu-
brick, then in command of the fleet in the
bay, and let him know- his instructions from
the War Department, and the extent of his
authority. Commodore Shubrick, and
subsequently Commodore Biddle, most
heartily and cordially co-operated with
Gen. Kearney in carrying out his instruc-
tions. Thus harmony existed between the
land and naval forces. Gen. Kearney,! for

* About this time Major Swords, quartermaster,
was dispatched on board a vessel, to the Sandwich
Islands, to purchase a supply of provisions for the
army, there being no supplies in California.

•[ These reasons were, perhaps, the dissatisfaction
that existed among the Americans who had cmigrati d
U) California ; the acts of Commodore Stockton being

certain reasons, however, refused to orga-
nize for the people of California a civil gov-
ernment, similar to that which he had pre-
viously provided for the inhabitants of New
Mexico, as his instructions permitted him.
On the first day of March 1847, Gen.
Kearney assumed the reins of the civil
government, ( Com. Shubrick being in
command of the naval forces) and on the
same day issued the following proclama-
tion to the inhabitants of California:

The President of the United States having de-
volved on the undersigned the civil government of
California, he enters upon the discharge of his duties
with an ardent desire to promote as far as possible
the interests of the country and well being of its
inhabitants.

The undersigned is instructed by the President to
respect and protect the religious institutions of Cali-
fornia, to take care that the religious rights of its
inhabitants are secured in the most ample manner,
since the constitution of the United States allows
to every individual the privilege of worshiping his
Creator in whatever manner his conscience may
dictate.

The undersigned is also instructed to protect the
persons and property of the quiet and peaceable in
habitants of the country, against each and every
enemy, whether foreign or domestic ; and now
I assuring the Californians that his inclinations no
less than his duty demand the fulfillment of these
instructions, he invites them to use their best efforts
to preserve order and tranquillity, to promote har-
mony and concord, and to maintain the authority
and efficacy of the laws.

It is the desire and intention of the United
Stales to procure for California as speedily as possi-
ble a free government like that of their own territo-
ries, and ihey will very soon invite the inhabitants
toexercis-e the rights of free citizens in the choice of
their own representatives, who may enact such laws
as they deem best adapted to their interests atid well
being. But until this takes place, the laws actually
in existence, which are not repugnant to the consti-
tution of the United States, will continue in force
until they are revoked by competent authority ; and
persons in the exercise of public employments will'
for the present remain in them, provided they swear
to maintain the said constitution and faithfully to
discharge their duties.

The undersigned, by these presents, absolves all
the inhabitants of California of any further allegi-
ance to the republic of Mexico, and regards them as
citizens of the United States. Those who remain
quiet and peaceable will be protected in their rights;
but should any take up arms against the govern-
ment of this territory, or join such as do so, or
instigate others to do so — all these he will regard as
enemies, and they will be treated as such.

When Mexico involved the United States in war,
the latter had not time to invite the Californians to
join their standard as friends, but found themselves
compelled to take possession of the country to pre-
vent its falling into the hands of some Kuropean
power. In doing this there is no doubt that some

partially in force ; and the personal responsibility the
work would involve.

DONIPHAN'S EXPEDITION.

93

excesses, some unauthorized acts, were committed
by persons in the service of the United States, and
that, in consequence, some of the inhabitants have
sustained losses in their property- These losses
shall be duly investigated, and those cntilled to in-
demnification shall receive it.

For many years California has suffered great
domestic convulsions; from civil wars, like poisoned
fountains', have flowed calamity and pestilence over
this b autiful region. These fountains are now
driod up; the stars and stripes now float over Cali-
fornia, and as long as the sun shall shed its light
they will continue to wave over her, and over the
natives of the country, and over those who shall
seek a liomi -ile in her bosom ; and under the pro-
tection of this flag agriculture must advance, and
the arts and sciences will flourish like seed in a rich
and fertile soil.

Americans and Californians ! from henceforth one
people. Let us then indulge one desire, one hope;
l.:t that be for the peace and tranquillity of our coun-
try. Let us unite like brothers, and mutually strive
for the improvement and advancement of this our
beautiful country, which within a short period can-
not fail to be not only beautiful but also prosperous
and happy.

'■Given at Monterey, capital of California, this 1st
day of March, in the year of our Lord, 1847,
and of the Independence of the United States the
seventy-first. S. W. KEARNEY,

Brig. Gen. U. S. A. and

Governor of California.

Gen. Kearney now sent orders to Lieu-
tenant-colonel Fremont at Angeles, re-
quiring him to muster his men into the Uni-
te J States' service regularly, and agreeably
to law, and repair with them to Monterey
where they could be mustered for discharge
and payment, and also to bring with him
the archives of the State, and other docu-
ments and papers. At the same time he
also sent an order to Lieutenant-colonel
Cooke, to march wiih a part of his Mor-
mon force from San Louis Rey to Angfles,
and relieve Lieutenant-colonel Fremont. —
The California volunteers refused to be
mustered into service as required, and
therefore Lieutenant-colonel Fremont could
not obey the orders of General Kearney.
Towards the close of March, Lieutenant-
colonel Fremont, unattended, left Angeles
and repaired to Monterey. Here he had
an interview with General Kearney; who
in a short time, ordered him back to
Angeles to transact certain business, impor-
tant to be accomplished before their return-
ing to the United States. Fremont being
delayed in the execution of this work,
General Kearney accompanied by Mr.
Hall of Doniphan's regiment, started for
the Pueblo, where they arrived on the
12th of May. The general, Mr. Hall,
Lieutenant-colonel Fremont and others

now returned to Monterey, arriving there
near the close of the month.

General Kearney, the Lawgiver and
Land-traveler, having completed the
work assigned him by his government, and
being now on the eve of returning to the
United States, disposed his forces in a
manner to preserve entire submission and
tranquillity in the country. The Mormons,
whose term of service would expire on the
10th of July, were stationed at San Diego,
San Louis Rey, and Angeles. Colonel
Stevenson with two companies of his
regiment and one company of the 1st
dragoons under Captain Smith, were also
posted at Angeles. One company of
Colonel Stevenson's regiment, and one
of light artillery under Captain Tompkins,
were retained as a garrison in Monterey.

Four companies of the New York regi-
ment under Lieutenant-colonel Burton
were garrisoning Santa Barbara ; of which
force, however, a squadron of two compa-
nies under command of Lieutenant-colonel
Burton, v/ere ordered to proceed by sea to
Lower California, where they would dis-
embark at La Paz, hoist the American flag,
and take possession of the country. Of
this regiment also, one company under
Captain Nagle would remain in the San
Joaquin valley ; a detachment of 30 men
would stay at Sutter's settlement ; and the
remainder under Major Hardy would gar-
rison the town of San Francisco.

Commodore Biddle having returned
from China, on the 2d of March assumed
the chief command of the naval forces on
board the Columbus. Coram. Shubrick
with the Independence, and Cyane, had
been ordered to sail down the coast, and
blockade the ports of Guymas and Ma-
zatlan. Colonel R. B. Mason of the 1st
dragoons, who was sent out by the govern-
ment for the purpose, was left commander-
in-chief of all the land forces, and ex officio
governor of California. Therefore, on the
31st of May, General Kearney took his
departure from Monterey, and, in company
with Lieutenant-colonel Cooke, Major
Swords, Captain Turner and Lieutenant,
Radford, of the navy; also Lieutenant-
colonel Fremont, the Hon. Willard P.
Hall, assistant surgeon Sanderson, and
thirteen of the Mormon battalion, and
nineteen of Lieutenant-colonel Fremont's
topographical party, making an aggregate
of forty men, returned to the United States
by way of the Southern Pass, and arrived

94

MITCHELL'S ESCORT.

at Fort Leavenworth on the 22d* of Au-
gust following, having twice crossed the
continent. On the 21st of June this party
passed the main ridge of the Sierra
Nevada, riding thirty-rive miles chiefly
over snow from live to twenty-five feet
deep, under which water was running, and
in many places in great torrents. Near
the great Salt Lake, General Keainey and
escort humanely gathered up and buried
the bones of the emigrant party, who so
miserably and wretchedly perished of cold
and hunger during the winter of 1840.
General Kearney immediately repaired to
Washington, whence he will proceed to
Southern Mexico and join General Scott's
division of the army. Thus terminated
the overland expedition to California,
•which scarcely mee'.s with a parallel in the
annals of history.

CHAPTER XVI.

Concf.vtjiation- of the forces at Valverde —
Mitchell's hJscort — Passage of the great "Jorna-
da del Muerto' — Arrival at Dorian na — Frank
Smith and the Mexicans — Battle of Brazito —
The Piratical Flag — Doniphan's order — Burial
of the Dead — False Alarm — Surrender of El
Paso — llelease of A merican Prisoners.

Col. Doniphan, upon his return from
the Navajo country, dispatched Lieut. Hin-
ton from Soccorro to Santa Fe, with orders
to Col. Price, commanding the forces at the
capital, to send him ten pieces of cannon,
and one hundred and twenty-five artillery
men. Col. Doniphan especially requested
that he would send Capt. Weightman's
company of light artillery, leaving it dis-
cretionary with Major Clark whether he
would remain at Santa Fe, or accompany
the expedition against Chihuahua. He
chose the latter.

The camp at Valverdefwas made the

* Gejieral K. arrested Col. Fremont on their ar-
rival at Fort Leavenworth, August 22d. The trial
is now in progress 'it Washington. Commodore
Stockton and suite left the settlements of California
on the 1 0th of July, and by the overland route, ar-
rived at St. Joseph in October.

•j- On the l?thday of December, at Valverde, pri-
vate W. P. Jwhnson, of Capt. Waldo's company,
Was honorably discharged from the service of the
United Stales, and permitted to return home, to at-
tend to the interests of his constituents, having been
chosen a m tuber of the Missouri legislature.

place of rendezvous, at which all the de-
tachments and parcels of the regiment, were
tore-unite. In fact the regiment was to be
re-organized. Lt. DeCourcy was appoint-
ed Adjutant, in the place of G. M. Butler,
who died at Cuvarro: sergeant-major Hin-
ton resigned, and was elected lieutenant in
DeCourcy's stead ; Palmer, a private, was
appointed sergeant-major. Also, Surgeon
Penn, and assistant surgeon Vaughan, hav-
ing previously resigned and returned to
Missouri, T. M. Morton now became prin-
cipal surgeon, and J. F. Morton and Dr.
Moore assistant surgeons.

With indefatigable labor and exertion,
Lieuts. James Lea and Pope Gordon, as-
sistant quartermaster and commissary, had
procured an outfit, and a supply of provi-
sions for the expedition. These they had
already at Valverde, or on the way thither,
when the detachments returned from the
campaign against the Navajos. The mer-
chant trains had received permission to ad-
vance slowly down the country, until the
army should take up the line of march,
when they were to fall in rear with the
baogage and provision trains, that they
might be the more conveniently guarded.

About the 1st of November, Dr. Con-
nelly, Doane, McManus, Valdez, and Jas.
McGoffin proceeded to El Paso, in ad-
vance of the army, and contrary to order,
to ascertain upon what conditions their
merchandise could be introduced through
the custom house into the Chihuahua mar-
ket. They were, immediately upon their
arrival at El Paso, seized and conducted
under an escort of twenty-six soldiers to the
city of Chihuahua, where they remained in
surveillance until liberated by the Ameri-
can army.

While Col. Doniphan was yet in the
mountains, Lieutenant-colonel Mitchell of
the 2d regiment, and Captain Thompson of
the regular service, conceived the bold
projectofopeninga communication between
Santa Fe and Gen. Wool's army, at that
time supposed to be advancing upon Chi-
huahua. For this purpose a volunteer
company, consisting of one hundred and
three men, raised from the different corps
at Santa Fe, was organized under the name
of the "Chihuahua Rangers," commanded
by Captain Hudson, and Lieutenants Todd,
Sproule, and Gibson. This force having
advanced down the valley of the Del Norte
seme distance below Valverde, and hear-
ing of a strong Mexican force near El Paso,

DONIPHAN'S EXPEDITION.

95

durst not venture further, but returned and
joined Col. Doniphan's column, which
was then about being put in motion. All
tilings were now ready for the march.

Accordingly, for the sake of conveni-
ence, in marching over the "Jornado del
Moerto," or Great Desert, which extends
from Fray Christohal to Robledo, a dis-
tance of ninety miles, the Colonel dis-
patched Major G.lpin in the direction of
El Paso on the 14th of December, in com-
mand of a division of three hundred men ;
on the 16th he started Lieut, colonel Jack-
son with an additional force of two hundred;
on the 19th he marched ill person with the
remainder of his command, including the
provision and a part of the baggage trains.

In passing this dreadful desert, which
is emphatically the "Journey of* the Dead,"
the men suffered much; for the weather
was now become extremely cold, and there
was neither water to drink, nor wood for
fire. Hence, it was not possible to pre-
pare anything to eat. The soldiers fa-
tigued with marching, faint with hunger,
and benumbed by the piercing winds, strag-
gled along the road at night, (for there was
not much halting for repose,) setting fire
to the dry bunches of grass, and the stalks
of the soap-plant, or pnimilla, which would
blaze up like a fL.sh of powder, and as
quickly extinguish, leaving the men shiv-
ering in the cold. For miles the road was
most brilliantly illuminated by sudden
flashes of light, which lasted but for a mo-
ment, and then again all was dark. At
length towards midnight the front of the
column would halt for a little repose. —
The straggling parties would continue to
arrive at all hours of the night. The
guards were posted out. The men without
their suppers lay down upon the earth and
rested. The teamsters were laboring in-
cessantly night and day with their trains
to keep pac;; with the march of the army.
By daydawn the reveil'e roused the tired
soldier from his comfortless bed of gravel,
and called him to resume the march, with-
out taking breakfast, for this could not be
provided on the desert. Such was the
march for more than three days over the
Jornado del Muerto.

Oil the 22d, Col. Doniphan overtook the
detachmems under Lieut, colonel Jackson
and Major Gilpin, near die little Mexican
town D manna. Here the soldiers found
plenty of grain and other forage for their
animals, running streams of water, and

abundance of dried fruit, corn-meal, and
sheep and cattle. These they purchased ;
therefore they soon forgot the sufferings and
privations which they had experienced on
the desert. Here they feasted and re-
posed.

The army now encamped within the boun-
daries of the State of Chihuahua. The ad-
vanced detachments under Lieutenant-colo-
nel Jackson and Major Gilpin, apprehend-
ing an attack from the Mexicans, about the
20th, had sent an express to Col. Doni-
phan, then on the desert, requesting him to
quicken his march. Capt. Reid, with his
company, had proceeded about 12 miles
below Dofianna, for the purpose of making
a reeonnoissance, and of acting as a scout,
or advanced guard. While encamped in
the outskirts of a forest, on a point of hills
which commanded the Chihuahua road, on
the night of the 23d, one of the sentinels
hailed to the Mexican spies, in the Span-
ish language. The spies mistaking the
sentinel for a friend, advanced very near.
At length, discovering their mistake, they
wheeled to effect their escape by flight. — •
The sentinel levelled his rifle-yager, and
discharged the ball through the bodies of
two of them. One of them tumbled from
his horse, dead, after running a few hund-
red yards, and the other at a greater dis-
tance. Their dead bodies were afterwards
discovered. This sentinel was Frank
Smith, of Saline.

On the morning of the 24th, the whole
command, in»luding Lieut. Col. Mitchell's-
escort, and the entire merchant, provision,
and baggage tiains, moved oft' in the direc-
tion of El Paso, and, after a progress of
fifteen miles, encamped on the river for
water. The forage was only moderately
good ; therefore the animals, which were
not tethered, rambled and straggled far off
into the adjacent bosquets and thickets dur-
ing the night. The weather was pleasant.

On the morning of the 25th of Decem-
ber, a brilliant sun, rising above the Organic
mountains to the eastward, burst forth upon
the world in all his effulgence. The little
army, at this time not exceeding eight hun-
dred strong, was comfortably encamped
on the east bank of the Del Norte. The
men felt frolicksome indeed. They sang
the cheering- songs of Yankee Doodle, and
Hail Columbia. Many guns were fired in
honor of* Christmas day. But there was no
need of all this, had they known the sequel.

At an early hour the Colonel t.iok up

96

BATTLE OF BRAZITO.

the line of march, with a strong front and
rear guard. The rear guard under Capt.
Moss, was delayed for a considerable purt
of the day in bringing up the trains, and
the loose animals which had rambled off
during the night. A great number of men
were also straggling about in search of their
lost stock. These were also delayed.

While on the march, the men most ear-
nestly desired, that, if they had to encoun-
ter the enemy at all, they might meet him
this day. They were gratified : for hav-
ing proceeded about eighteen miles, the
Colonel pitched his camp at a place called
Brazito, or the Little Arm, on the east
bank of the river, in an open, level, bottom
prairie, bordered next the mountains and
river, on the east and soulh-east, by amez-
quite and willow chaparral. Here the
front guard had called a halt.

While the men were scattered every-
where in quest of wood and water, for
cooking purposes, and fresh grass for their
•animals, and while the trains and straggling
men were scattered along the road for
miles in the rear, a cloud of dust, greater
than usual, was observed in the direction
of El Paso, and in less than fifteen minutes
some one of the advance guard, coming
at full speed, announced to the colonel,
" that the enemy was advancing upon
him."* The bugler was summoned. As-
sembly call was blown. The men, dash-
ing down their loads of wood, and buckets
of water, came running from all quarters,
seized their arms, and fellinto line under
whatever flag was most convenient. As
fast as those in the rear came up, they also
fell into line under the nearest standards.
The officers dashed from post lo post, and
in an incredibly short space of time the
Missoi.rians were marshaled on the field
of fight.

By this time the Mexican general had
drawn up his forces in front, and on the
right and left flanks of Colonel Doniphan's
lines. Their strength was about thirteen

* It is said that Col. Doniphan, and several of
his officers and men, were at this moment engaged
in playing a game of three-trick ho. At first he
observed that the cloud of dust was perhaps pro-
duced hy a gust of wind, and lhat they had as well
play their hands out. In another moment the
plumes and banners of the enemy were plainly in
view. The colonel quickly sprang to his feet, threw
down his cards, grasped his .sabre, and observed,
44 Boys, I held an invincible hand, but I'll be
d-mn'd if I don't have to play it out in steel now."
Every man flew to his post.

hundred men, consisting of five hundred
and fourteen regular dragoons, an old and
well known corps from Vera Cruz and
Zacatecas, and eight hundred volunteers,
cavalry and infantry, from El Paso and
Chihuahua, and four pieces of artillery.
They exhibited a most gallant and impo-
sing appearance; for the dragoons were
dressed in a uniform of blue pantaloons,
green coats trimmed with scarlet, and tall
caps plated in front with brass, on the
tops of which fantastically waved a plume
of horsediair, or buffalo's tail. Their
bright lances and swords glittered in the
sheen of the sun. Thus marshaled they
paused for a moment.

Meanwhile Col. Doniphan, ami his field
and company officers, appeared as calm
and collected as when on drill ; and, in the
most spirited manner encouraged their
men by the memory of their forefathers,
by the past history of their country, by
the recollection of the battle of Okeechobee
which was fought on the same day in 1837,
and by every consideration which renders
life, liberty, and country valuable, to che-
rish no other thought than that of victory.

Before the battle commenced, and while
the two armies stood marshaled front to
front, the Mexican commander, General
Ponce de Leon, dispatched a lieutenant to
Col. Doniphan bearing a black flag. —
This messenger coming with the speed of
lightning, halted when within sixty yards
of the American lines, and waved his en-
sign gracefully in salutation. Hereupon
Col. Doniphan advancing towards him a
little way, sent his interpreter, T. Cald-
well, to know his demands. The ambas-
sador said : — " The Mexican general sum-
mons your commander to appear before
him." The interpreter replied : — " If your
general desires peace, let him come here."
The olher rejoined : — " Then we will
break your ranks and take him there."—
" Come then and take him," retorted the
interpreter. " Curses be upon you, — pre-
pare then for a charge, — we neither ask
nor give quarters," said the messenger;
and waving his black flag over his head,
galloped back to the Mexican lines.

At the sound of the trumpet the Vera
Cruz dragoons, who occupied the right of
the enemy's line of battle, first made a
bold charge upon the American left. When
within a i'ew rods the yagermen opened a
most deadly fire upon them, producing great
execution. At the same crisis Capt. Reid

DONIPHAN'S EXPEDITION.

97

with a party of sixteen mounted men
(for the rest were all on foot) charged upon
them, broke through their ianks, hewed
them to pieces with their sabres, and there-
by contributed materially in throwing- the
enemy's right wing* into confusion. A
squad or section of dragoons, having flank-
ed our left, now charged upon the commis-
sary and baggage trains, but the gallant
wagoners opened upon them a well direct-
ed tire, which threw them into disorder,
and caused three of their number to pay
the forfeit of their lives.

The Chihuahua infantry and cavalry
were posted on their left, and consequently
operated against our right wing. They
advanced within gun-shot, and took shelter
in the chaparral, discharging three full
rounds upon our lines before we returned
the fire. At this crisis Col. Doniphan or-
dered the men to " lie down on their faces,
and reserve, their fire until the Mexicans
came within hixty paces." This was
done. The Mexicans supposing they had
wrought fearful execution in our ranks, as
some were falling down while others stood
up, began now to advance, and exultingly
cry out " bueno, bueno f whereupon our
whole right wing, suddenly rising up, let
fly such a galling volley of yager-balls into
their ranks, that they wheeled about and
fled in the utmost confusion.

By this time the Howard company, and
others occupying the centre, had repulsed
the enemy with considerable loss, and tak-
en possession of one piece of his artillery,
and the corresponding ammunition. This
was a brass six-pound howitzer. Sergt.
Calaway, and a few others of that compa-
ny first gained possession of this piece of
cannon, cut the dead animals loose from it,
and wTere preparing to turn it upon the en-
emy, when Lieut. Kribben, with a file of
artillery-men, was ordered to man it.*

The consternation now became general
among the ranks of the Mexicans, and
they comm°nced a precipitate retreat along
the base of the mountains. Many of them
took refuge in the craggy fastnesses. —
They were pursued by the Americans a-
bont one mile; Capt. Reid, and Capt.
"Walton, who by this time had mounted a
few of his men, followed them still fur-
ther. All now returned to camp, and con-
gratulated one another on the achievement.

*The other three pieces of artillery were not
brought into the action.

The Mexican loss was seventy-one killed,
five prisoners, and not less than one hun-
dred and fifty wounded, among whom was
their commanding officer, General Ponck
de Leon. Also, a considerable quantity
of ammunition, baggage, wine, provisions,
blankets, guns, and several stands of co-
lors, were among the spoils. A number of
horses were killed, and several were cap-
tured. The Americans had eight men
wounded — none killed.

In this engagement Col. Doniphan, his
officers, and men, displayed the utmost
courage, and determined resolution to con-
quer or perish in the conflict. Defeat
would have been ruinous. Therefore all
the companies vied with each other in en-
deavoring to render the country the most
important service. The victory was com-
plete on the part of the Americans. The
battle continued about thirty minutes, and
was fought about three o'clock P. M., on
Christmas day, at Brazito, twenty-five
miles from El Paso.

Not more than five hundred of Col. Doni-
phan's men were present when the battle
commenced. The rest fell into line as they
were enabled to reach the scene of action.
Those who had been far in the rear during
the day, when they heard the firing, came
running in great haste with their arms in
their hands, to bring aid to their comrades,
who were then engaged with the enemy.
This created such a dust, that the enemy
supposed a strong reinforcement was march-
ing to our support. This circumstance,
also, contributed to strike terror into the
Mexican ranks.

By this defeat the Mexican army was
completely disorganized and dispersed.—
The volunteer troops returned with the ut-
most expedition to their respective homes;
while the regular troops continued their
flight to Chihuahua, scarcely halting for re-
freshment in El Paso. On the retreat,
many of the wounded died. Several were
found dead by the road side, and the chap-
arral near the battle-field was stained with
the blood of the retreating foe. The field
was all trophied over with the spoils of the
slain and the vanquished. Martial accou-
trements, sacks and wallets of provisions,
and gourds of the delicious wines of El Pa-
so, were profusely scattered over miles of
surface. These supplied our soldiers with a
Christmas banquet. The whole affair re-
sembled a Christmas frolic. This night
the men encamped on the same spot where

DONIPHAN'S EXPEDITION.

99

they were when attacked by the Mexicans.
Having ate the bread and drank the wine
which were taken in the engagement, they
reposed on their arms, protected by a strong-
guard.

On the following morning the dead were
buried, and the wounded Mexican priso-
ners comfortably provided with means of
conveyance to El Paso. Every needful
attention was also given our own wounded
by the surgeons. The column now, in
perfect order, with the baggage, provision,
hospital, ammunition, and merchant trains
in the rear, and a strong rear and front
guard, and a party of flankers on the right
and left, moved cautiously in the direction
of El Paso, apprehending another attack.
After an advance of fifteen miles camp was
selected near a small s;dt lake, where there
was a moderate supply of natural forage,
such as grass and rushes. From this
point Col. Doniphan sent back an express
for the artillery to hasten forward, for he
anticipated strenuous opposition at El Paso.

While encamped here one of the picket
guard, discovering a party of Mexicans
passing along the base of the mountains
towards the east, in which they had taken
shelter during the day, endeavoring to make
good their retreat to El Paso under cover
of the night, fired upon them. This
produced an alarm in camp. The men
were cooking their suppers ; some of them
had spread their beds for repose. Col.
Doniphan ordered the fires to be extinguish-
ed. Whatever was in the vessels, on the
fire, cooking, was now turned topsy-turvy
in the effort to put out the light. For a
moment all was confusion. Quickly, how-
ever, Col. Doniphan drew up his men in
line of battle, and awaited the approach of
the enemy. Lieutenant-colonel Jackson
in the hurry to parade his men mounted
his mule bare-back, with his sword and
shot-gun. Many of the men were in ranks
barefoot, and only half clad ; for they had
been roused from slumber. Finally, no
enemy appearing, the soldiers were ordered
to repair to their tents, and sleep on their
arms. They ran, leaping, and hallooing,
and cursing the false alarm. Before
day another false alarm called them out in
a similar manner. Therefore, this night
the soldiers were much vexed.

The same order of march which had
been adopted on the previous day was
continued on the 27th, until the column
reached El Paso. On arriving at the

Great Pass, or gorge in the mountains,
through which the river appears to have
forced its way, debouching into the valley
below, over a system of rocky falls, in
dashing cataracts, the colonel was met by
a deputation of citizens from El Paso,
bearing a white flag, proposing terms of
peace, and offering to surrender the place
into his hands, beseeching at the same
time that he would use his clemency to-
wards them, in sparing their lives, and
protecting their property. This the colo-
nel was inclined to do. It was now about
six miles to the city. All moved on,
rejoicing in the prospect of rest, and some-
thing to appease the appetite.

Thus on the 27th the city of El Paso*
was possessed by the American troops
without further opposition, or greater effu-
sion of blood. It was now night. There-
fore the soldiers encamped and enjoyed
the advantage of a little repose.

The men, at first, were encamped on a
bare spot of earth, south of the Plaza, where
the wind drove the sand furiously through
the camp, dreadfully annoying both man
and beast. In this comfortless situation,
the soldiers remained for several days. —
At length, after great suffering from the
driven sands, which filled the eyes, nos-
trils, and mouth to suffocation, the men
were quartered in houses near the square.

One of the first acts of Col. Doniphan,
after taking possession of El Paso, was
the liberating of three American citizens
who, without crime, had been immured in
a dungeon for five months and one day. —
Thus have Americans been deprived of
their liberty in Mexico. Col. Doniphan
was their deliverer.

These three American citizens, Hudson,
Pollard, and Hutchinson, had started from
Van Buren in Arkansas, with the view of
proceeding to Upper California, where
they intended settling ; and arriving safely
at Santa Fe, they agreed to hire Graham,
a Scotchman, to pilot them through the
mountains to San Diego. Having pur-

*" When you learn," observes an intelligent vol-
unteer, " that this place is the key by which you
enter New Mexico, you will see at once the impor-
tance of the place. " All communications, passing
from Lower Mexico in the direction of Santa Fe,
must necessarily pass through this place, or within it
few miles of it. Is it not, therefore, most surprising
that, with two thousand two hundred and forty
fighting men in the town, besides the regular soldiers,
five hundred and fourteen, who were stationed there,
they should have surrendered the place so easily? "

100

THE SEARCH FOR ARMS.

chased an outfit at Santa Fe, they were
conducted by Graham down the Del
Norte to El Paso, who told them the best
route led from that place to Guadaloupe
Calvo, and thence by San Bernadino, to
the mouth of the Gila, whence they could
easily arrive at San Diego. They fol-
lowed their pilot. On reaching El Paso,
however, Graham became intoxicated and
informed against them, representing to the
Prefecto of the place that they were Texan
gpies; whereupon they were apprehended
and lodged in prison, where they lay until
dalivered by the American army.

CHAPTER XVII.

The Commissioners — Assessment of property-
Search for arms — Proclamation of Gov. Trias —
The American merchants — Strength of the Pass
— Cart. Kirkrr — Kind treatment of the Pasenos
— Resources of the valley of El Paso — Wolves —
The rehellion — Ramond Ortiz — The Apache In-
dians.

On the morning of the 28th, three com-
missioners, deputed by the citizens of El
Paso, came intu the American camp to ne-
gotiate more fully the terms of capitulation,
and the nature of the peace which had been
partially agreed upon the previous day. —
Col. Doniphan instructed them to say to
the inhabitants of the settlement of El Paso,
"that he did not come to plunder and rav-
age, but to offer them liberty ; that the
lives and property of such as remained
peaceable and neutral, during the existence
of the war, would be fully and amply pro-
tected ; but that such as neglected their
industrial pursuits, and instigated other
peaceable citizens to take up erms against
the Americans, would be punished as their
crimes deserved." He also encouraged
them to industry, and the prosecution of
their daily labor, advising them to pre-
pare a market wherein his soldiers might
purchase such things as they needed,
excepting spirituous liquors, the sale of
which he interdicted. He further assured
them, "that his commissary and quarter-
master would purchase of them such sup-
plies of provisions and forage, as his men
and animals might require, and that the
beautiful settlement of El Paso s-hould not
be laid waste and destroyed by his sol-
diers." These things were dene as Col.
Doniphan promised.

On the same day an assessment was
made of all the corn, wheat, and proven-
der which could be found in the city, that
the quartermaster might know whence to
draw supplies, in case the proprietors re-
fused to sell to the American army. —
When the estimate had been completed, it
appeared that there were several hundred
thousand fanegas of corn and wheat, and a
vast quantity of fodder and other forage for
horses and mules.* Also a search for pub-
lic arms, ^ammunition, and stores was in-
stituted, that if such things were found to
abound, the army might not be in want of
the means of defence, and also that the
Mexicans, in case they attempted an insur-
rection, might not have in their power the
means of prosecuting their designs with suc-
cess, or of inflicting permanent injury upon
our men. Therefore the field officers and
captains, and lieutenants, with files of men
went into all the houses, treating the fami-
lies with respect, taking nothing save arms
and other munitions of war; neither did
they abuse any person.

When this search was completed, it was
discovered that the colonel had come in
possession of more than twenty thousand
pounds of powder, lead, musket cartridge,
cannon cartridge, and grape and cannister
shot; five hundred stands of small arms,
four hundred lances, four pieces of can-
non, several swivels and culverins, and sev-
eral stands of colors.

On the 30th, a body of cavalry under
Major Gilpin and Captain Reid was sent
to the Presidio del Eclezario, twenty-two
miles further down the river, for the pur-
pose of making a reconnoissance. Here
a strong body of Mexicans had been re-
cently stationed, but abandoned the post,
when Col. Doniphan entered El Paso. —
Several wagon loads of ammunition, and
one piece of cannon, were discovered
caclietl, or buried in the sand.f These

* Col. Doniphan issued an order to the soldiers,
forbidding them to take any property from ihe Mexi-
cans, without paying its just equivalent to the
owner. A wagish volunteer who was standing by
observed, "Colonel ! you don't care if we take
/ulc (maize) do youV The colonel, not sus-
pecting his motive, replied in the negative. The
volunteer went away, and in a short time returned
t > camp with great quantifies of corn for his horse and)
those of his companions, for the Mexicans call enrn,
mice, (i. e.) maize. The colonel enjoyed the joke.

f At this fort was also discovered a great num-
of bloody bandages; for the Mexicans who were
wounded at Urafcito had been conveyed thither to
receive surgical attention.

DONIPHAN'S EXPEDITION.

101

also were afterwards sent for by the com-
mander. This body of cavalry having
returned, reported a strong Mexican force
on its march from Chihuahua to re-
cover El Paso from the hands of the
Americans. So the army was not yet
free from apprehension.

The Americans now having complete
possession of El Paso, and treating the in-
habitants with great humanity, even those
who fought against them under a black, pi-
ratical flag at Brazito, (for many of them
were walking about town with bandages
around their heads, and their arms in slings,
and their other wounds bound up, which
they had received in that action,) they in
turn, generously and gratuitously supplied
many of the soldiers with such things as
they required to eat and drink, as though
unwilling to be excelled in kindness. This
is the character of the El Pasenos. The
soldiers spent much of their time pleasantly
in feasting upon a variety of the best viands
and finest fruits, such as fresh pears, quin-
ces, apples, oranges ; and dried pears, ap-
ples, peaches, and grapes which far excel
the raisin for deliciousness of flavor. Be-
sides these there was a great variety of
sweet-meats in the market; and also mez-
cal and pulque, and beer, and the richest
wines. The soldiers enjoyed all these
luxuries, after so much privation.

Shortly after Col. Doniphan's arrival at
El Paso, the proclamation of Angel Trias,
governor of Chihuahua, to the Mexican
troops before the battle of Brazito, fell into
his hands ; a copy of which, translated by
Capt. David Waldo, here follows : —

Soldiers : — The sacrilegious invaders of Mexico
are approaching the city of El Paso, an important
part of the State, where the enemy intend establish-
ing their winter quarters, and even pretend that they
will advance further into our territory. It is entirely
necessary that you go — you defenders of the honor
and gl >ry of the Republic, that you may give a les-
son t.i these pirates.

The State calculated much upon the aid that
would he given by the valiant and war-worn citizens
of the Pass ; but treason has sown there distrust, and
the patriotic people, hy a disgraceful mutiny, retreat-
ed at thirty leagues distance from a small force, un-
der the command of Gen'l Kearney, when they
misht have taken him and his force prisoners at dis-
cretion. Subordination and discipline were wanting.

You ko to re-establish the character of those Mex-
icans, an. I to chastise the enemy if he should dareto
touch the soil of the State ; the State ennobled by
the blood ol the fathers of our Independence. I con-
fide in your courage, and alone I recommend to you
obedience to your commanders and the most perfect
discipline.

All Chihnahua burn with the desire to go with
you, because they are all Mexicans, possessed of the
warmest enthusiasm and the purest patriotism. —
They will march to join you — at the first signal the
circumstances of the war demand re-inforcements,
they shall be forwarded, let it cost the State what it
may. To the people of Chihuahua no sacrifice
is reckoned when the honor of the republic is at
stake.

The enthusiasm with which you march, and the
sanctity of your noble cause, are sure evidences of
victory. Yes, you are led by the God of battles and
your brows shall be crowned with laurels. Thus
trusts your friend and companion.

ANGEL TRIAS.
Chihuahua, Nov. 9, 1846.

On the morning of the 1st of January,
1817, a great cloud of dust was seen rising
in the direction of Chihuahua, similar to
that usually produced by the march of an
army of cavalry. The picket guard came
dashing in at full speed. Assembly was
blown by the bugler. All apprehended an
attack. The soldiers ran to their arms i.»
great haste. The officers paraded their
respective commands. The standards were
displayed. The men were drawn up in
order of battle. The Mexican pieces of
artillery, recently taken, and the howitzer
captured at Brazito, were put into an attitude
of defence by a file of men under Lieuten-
ant Kribben. The men who had straggled
from camp into town, came running for
their arms with the utmost expedition.
Col. Doniphan, who now had his quarters
in the town, also came running on foot with
his holster-pistols swung across his left
arm, having his drawn sword in his right
hand. Lieutenant-colonel Mitchell, with a
small body of cavalry, galloped off in the
direction of the rising dust, and, having
made a reconnoissance, reported that the
dust proceeded from an atajo of pack mules
and a train of Mexican car'etas coming into
town. This was another false alarm.
The soldiers were now moved and quarter-
ed in houses, near the square, for better de-
fence, both against the enemy and the high
winds, which rage continually during the
winter season, in that mountainous 'jouii-
try.

The merchants and sutlers, upon arriving
at El Paso, hired rooms and storehouses,,
where they exhibited their goods and com-
modities for sale. Many of them sold
largely to the inhabitants, whereby ihey
considerably lightened their burdens. Cer-
tain of the merchants advanced Col. Doni-
phan sums of money, for the use of the

102

CAPTAIN JAMES KIRKER.

commissary and quartermaster departments
of the army, taking, for these accommoda-
tions, checks on the United States' trea-
sury. To a limited extent, also, they fur-
nished some of the soldiers with clothing,
and other necessaries.

About the 5th,! a lieutenant and a num-
ber of mechanics were sent up to the falls,
to repair the grist-mills at that place. Large
quantities of wheat were now ground, and
the flour, unbolted, put up in sacks for the
use of the army. For the present, there-
fore, the soldiers were bountifully supplied.

Near the mills the Mexican army, a short
time previous to the battle at Brazilo, had
constructed a cordon or system of field
works, extending from the mountains, and
connecting with the river, on the west side,
at the falls. Here, at first, it was proposed
to give the "Northern Invaders" battle;
than which it is difficult to conceive a strong-
er position for defence ; but Gen. Cuilta,
chief in command at that time, being seized
with an indisposition, Gen. Ponce led the
troops to Brazito, where he suffered a
total defeat. The next day, Capt. Stephen-
son and about one hundred men, including
some who had been left sick at Soceoiro
and Alberquerque. and had recovered, came
up, escorting a large train of commissary
wagons. This train had been ordered
down from Santa Fe, when the troops came
out of the Navajo country.

The soldiers, (such of them as were not
on duty at any time,) now engaged in vari-
ous pastimes and amusements with the Pa-
sefios; sometimes visiting and conversing
with the fair Seuoritas of the place, whose
charms and unpurchased kindness almost
induced some of the men to wish not to re-
turn home ; — and at other times gleefully
dancing at the fandango. When the weath-
er was pleasant, the streets about the plaza
were crowded with Mexicans, and Ameri-
can soldiers, engaged in betting at monte,
. chuck-luck, twenty-one, faro, or some other
game at cards. This vice was carried to
such an excess at one time, that Col. Doni-
phan was compelled to forbid gambling

* Capts. Waldo, Kirker, Maclean, and a Mexi-
can went on a hunting excursion up the Del Norte
river. They were absent eight or ten days, during
which they had much sport. They chased several
small parties of Mexicans, and visited the house of
the friendly Mexican, whose son had volunteered to
serve under Gen. Ponce at Brazito, and was unfortu-
nately shot, while endeavoring to come over to the
American lines, in that action.

on the streets, in'order to clear them of ob-
struction.

Capt. James Kirker, who has gained
so much celebrity as an Indian fighter,
and who for many years past has been suc-
cessfully employed by the State of Chihu-
ahua against the Apaches, hearing that the
American forces were advancing upon El
Paso, left his family at Coralitus, and has-
tened to join his countrymen, that he might
show his fidelity and patriotism. This
conduct of Capt. Kirker was no less unex-
pected, than it was terrifying to the Chi-
huahuans. For he, who had so long been
the terror of the Apaches., had now joined
with his countrymen, to be henceforward
equally the terror of the Chilmahuans. —
Captain Kirker, on account of his great
knowledge of the country, and acquaintance
with the language and customs of the Mexi-
can people, became subsequenily of the
most essential service to Col. Doniphan
as an interpreter and forage master. He
returned with the army to the United States.

The universal kind treatment which the
El Paseuos received from the Americans,
not only induced them to think well of the
conduct of the army, but disposed them fa-
vorably towards the American government ;
for they began to consider how much more
liberty and happiness they might enjoy,
having connection with this republic, than
in their present state. They saw also that
the Americans were not disposed to plun-
der; for being conquerors, they notwith-
standing purchased of the conquered those
things they wished to use, and forcibly took
nothing. Nor would they permit the Apa-
ches to kill and plunder the Mexican peo-
ple. This pleased them, for they dread
the Apaches. Besides, when a subaltern
officer took provisions for his men, or for-
age for the animals, he gave the owner of
the property an order on the quartermas-
ter. Such order was always accepted, and
promptly redeemed. This, too, gave the
Mexicans great confidence in the solvency
and fairness of the American government.

Now, there are a great many wolves,
which come down from the neighboring
mountains, into the suburbs of El Paso, and
kill the ilocks when not penned in their
folds, and also feed upon the offal about the
shambles, and slaughter-pens. They kept
up a dolorous serenade during the nights,
and in many instances were so bold as al-
most to drive the sentinels from their posts.
Oftentimes the sentinels were compelled to

DONIPHAN'S EXPEDITION.

103

shoot them, in self-defence, as they would
a prowling enemy. This would usually
create a false alarm.

On one occasion several beeves had been
slaughtered in a fold, or corral, for the use
of the army. During the night the scent
of the offal attracted the wolves. A con-
siderable number of them coming down
from their lairs among the rocks, leaped in-
to the corral, and feasted sumptuously.
The walls of the corral were many feet
higher on the inside than on the outside,
so, at day -dawn, when the wolves wished
to retire, they could not repass the walls.
The soldiers, therefore, in the morning,
taking their sabres, went in amongst them,
and, after much sport, killed them all. In
such amusements did the soldiers delight.

On a certain occasion while the army re-
mained here, two sentinels, Tungitt and
Clarkin, were found sleeping on their posts,
and their guns taken from them by the offi-
cer of the guard. This is a capital offence.
They were brought before Col. Doniphan,
under arrest, who thus addressed them : —
,s Gentlemen ! you have committed a very
high offence against the laws of the coun-
try, and propriety. By your neglect you
have exposed the lives of all. You have
laid the whole camp liable to be surprised
by the enemy. Are you not sensible of
the enormity of these offences ?" To
which they replied in the affirmative, "but
we were tired and exhausted, and could not
preserve our wakefulness — we will endea-
vor not to commit a similar offence in fu-
ture." " Then go," says Col. Doniphan,
" and hereafter be good soldiers and faithful
sentinels — I will excuse you for the pres-
ent." They departed, and were never
known to be in default again.

About the 10th of January* we learned of
the insurrection which had been set on foot
in New Mexico by Gen. Anchulette, Cha-
vez, Ortiz, and others, and captured certain
of their emissaries, endeavoring to instigate
the inhabitants of El Paso to attempt the
same there. This matter, being timely de-
tected and exposed at El Paso by the vigi-
lance of both officers and men, was crushed
before the plan was matured. Also certain
other Mexicans were detected, in secretly
carrying on a correspondence with the,

* About this time an American, his name Rodgers,
escaped from Chihuahua, and reported to Col. Don-
iphan that Gen. Wool had abandoned his march
upon that city, and that a formidable force was pre-
paring to defend the place.

troops at Chihuahua, whereby they were
endeavoring to plot and work our destruc-
tion. Among these was Ramond Ortiz,
the curate of El Paso, a very shrewd and
intelligent man, and the same whom Ken-
dall's graphic pen has immortalized. All
of these were now held in custody under a
strict guard.

The time was now occupied in procu-
ring a supply of provisions, and a suitable
outfit for the contemplated march upon
Chihuahua. Preparatory to this, also, and
for the more perfect organization and better
discipline of the troops, the intermediate
time was consumed in regimental and com-
pany drills: — in cavalry charges, and sword
exeicises. These wholesome military ex-
ercises gave greater efficiency to the corps,
and it is due to the high-minded, honorable
men, who composed this column, to bear
testimony to the prompt and cheerful man-
ner in which they performed every duty,
and submitted to every burden, upon which
they foresaw their safety, as an army, de-
pended. Such was the spirit of the sol-
diers under the command of Col. Doni-
phan.*

On the 18th Capt. Hughes and Lieut.
Jackson, with ten men, who had been left
sick at Soccorro, and a few days afterwards
Lieuts. Lea, Gordon and Hinton, who had
been sent back to Santa Fe for provisions
and the artillery, arrived at El Paso, and
rejoined their companies. About this time
also, five intelligent young men, who fought
bravely at Brazito, died of typhoid fever,
and were buried with the honors of war,
in the El Paso cemetery .t

On the 25lh the author made the subjoin-
ed statements of the resources of the rich
valley of El Paso, to the War Depart-
ment, after several weeks' careful observa-
tion, which was ordered to be printed.

For the consideration of the War Department, at
Washington City.

The United States' forces under command of
Col. Alexander W. Doniphan, took possession of the ■
city of El Paso, in the Department of Chihuahua,
on Sunday, the 27th December, 1846; two days
after the battle of Brazito, the strength of his com-
mand being about nine hundred men.

My object, in this communication, is to give the

* On the 11th January, J. T. Crenshaw was ap-
pointed Sergeant-major, vice Palmer, resigned.

■j- These were James M. Finley, J. D. Leland. O.
J. Hackley, J. Clark and a Mr. Dyer.

Peace to the shades of the virtuous brave,

Who gallantly bore the perils of war,

Who found an humble, yet honored grave.

From kindred, home, and country far.

104

RESOURCES OF EL PASO.

War Department and the country al large some idea
of the resources of the fruitful valley of El Paso,
and of its imporlanre to the United States. The
settlement of the El Paso extends from the falls of
the Rio Grande on the north, to the Presidio on
the south, a distance of twenty-two miles, and is
one continuous orchard and vineyard, embracing in
its ample area an industrious and peaceable popula-
tion of at least right thousand. This spacious val-
ley is about miil-way between Santa Fu and Chi-
huahua, and is isolated from all other Mexican set-
tlement-; by the mountains that rise on the east and
west, and clo<e into the river on the north and south.
The breadth of the valley is about ten miles. The
falls of the river are two miles north of the "plaza
publ c«,'' or public, square, ami affords sufficient
water-power for grist and saw-mills enough to sup-
ply the entire settlement with flour and lumber.

The most important production of the valley is
the Grape, from which are annually manufactured
not less than two hundred thousand gallonsof per-
haps the richest and best wine in the world. This
wine is worth two dollars per gallon, and constitutes
the principal revenue of the city. Thus the wines
of El Paso alone yield four hundred thousand dol-
lars per annum. The El Paso wines are superior,
in richness of flavor and pleasantness of taste, to
anything of the kind I ever met with in the United
States, and I doubt not that they are far superior to
the best wines ever produced in the vallev of the
Rhine, or on the sunny hills of France. There is
little or no rain in this elevated country, and hence
the extraordinary sweetness and richness of the
grape. Also, quantities of the grape of this valley
are dried in clusters, and preserved for use during
the winter months, [ri this state I regard them as
far superior to the best raisins that are imported into
the United Slates from the West India Islands and
other tropical climates.

If this valley were cultivated hv an energetic
American population, it would yield, perhaps, ten
times the quantity of wine and fruits at present pro-
duced. Were the wholesome influences and pro-
tection of our Republican Institutions extended to
the Rio del Norte, an American population, possess-
ing American feelings, and speaking the American
language, would soon spring up here. To facilitate
the peopling of this valley by the Anglo-American
race, nothing would contribute so much astheopen-
ing of a communication between this rich valley
and the western States of our union, by a turnpike,
rail road, or some other thoroughfare which would
afford a market f >r the fruits and wines of this river
country. Perhaps the most feasible and economical,
though not the most direct, plan of opening an out-
let to the grape valley of the Rio Grande would be
the constru tion of a Grand Canal from this place,
following the meanderings of the river to its highest
navigable point. If a communication, by either of
these routes, were opened, this valley would soon
become the seat of wealth, influence and refinement.
It would become one of the richest and most fash-
ionable parts of the continent. A communication
between the valley of the Mississippi and that of the
Rio del Norte, affording an easy method of ex-
changing the products of the one, for those of the
other, will do more than any other cause to facilitate
the westward march of civilization and republican
government. It would be an act of charity to rid
these people of their present governors and throw
around ttrein the shield of American protection.

That the idea of a canal following the course of
the Del Norte, may nut appear impracticable, it may
not be amiss to state that no country in the world!
is better adapted for the construction of canals than
this valley. As the earth is sandy, canals are easi-
ly constructed ; but there is a kind of cement inter-
mixed with the sand that renders the banks of ca-
nals as firm as a wall. There is already a grand
canal, or -'(icequiii" leading out from the river ahovo
the falls, extending through the entire length of the
valley of El Paso, irrigating every farm and vine-
yard, thence to the Presidio, where, it rejoins the
river.

Pears, peaches, apples, quinces and figs, are pro-
duced here hi the greatest profusion. The climate

of this country is most salubrious and healthful

The scenery is grand and picturesque beyond de-
scription. The inhabitants here suffer more from
the depredations of the Apaches than from any oth-
er cause. They are frequently robbed of all they
possess, in one night, by the incursions of these
jawless plunderers. A few companies of American
dragoons would, however, soon drive them from
their hiding places in the mountains, and put an end
to their depredations.

Add to the fruits and wines of this rich valley, a
vast quantity of corn, wheat and other small grain,
and the surplus productions of the place will, under
its present state of agriculture, amount to near one
million of dollars per annum. What then would
be the amount of the surplus under the advantages
of American Agriculture? The entire valley of the
Del Norte, from Alburquerque to Chihuahua, a dis-
tance of five hundred miles in length, is as well
adapted to the cultivation of the grape, as the par-
ticular valley adjacent to El Paso.

I have thought proper to make these suggestions
to the War Department, as there is no corps of Field
and Topographical Engineers with this branch of
the Western Army, whose duty it would have been
to make such a report.

Very respectfully,

JOHN T. HUGHES.
His Excellency W. L. Mahcv, Sec'y of War.

Ei Paso, January 25th, 1847.

The Apache Indians- were continually
making incursions from the mountains
upon the setilements of El Paso, plunder-
ing and robbing whomsoever chanced to fall
in their way, whether Mexican or Ameri-
can, and driving off large herds of mules
and flocks of sheep. On one occasion
they drove off two hundred and eighty
mules belonging to Algea and Porus,
Mexican merchants, traveling under the
protection of the American army. They
had previously driven off twenty yoke of
oxen belonging to the commissary trains
near the little town Dohanna. And subse-
quently, when the army was encamped
about thirty-five miles below El Paso, they
stole a parcel of work oxen from Mr.
Houke, an American trader, and made
their escape to the mountains. The next
morning information of the fact was given,

DONIPHAN'S EXPEDITION.

lot

when Mr. Houke, Lieut. Hinton and three
other men pursued them, anil after a toil-
some marcli of a'out sixty miles overtook
the villains, killed one of their number, re-
covered the oxen, and returned to the army.

CHAPTER XVIII.

Drpuituhv from El Paso — Doniphan's position —
R.nnond Oriiz — Two Deserters — Battalion of
Merchants — Passage of the desert — The Ojo Ca-
li'-nte — Marksmanship — Lake of Encenillas —
Dreadful Conflagration — Capt. Reid's Adventure
— The Reconnoissance — Plan of the March — Bat-
tle of Sacramento — Surrender of Chihuahua.

Colonel Doniphan delayed at El Paso
forty-two days, awaiting the arrival of the
artillery under Major Clark and C;iptain
Weightman, which he had ordered Col.
Price to forward immediately, upon his
return from the Indian campaign. Col
Price, having his mind turned on quelling
the conspiracy which had been plotted by
Gen. Archulette, and fearing, if he should
send the artillery away, that it would too
much weaken his force, and embolden the
conspirators, hesitated several weeks be-
fore he would comply wiih the order. At
length, however, he dispatched Major Clark
with one hundred and seventeen men,
and six pieces of cannon, four six pound-
ers, and two twelve pound howitzers ;
which, after indefatigable exertion, and in-
cessant toiling through the heavy snows,
arrived at El Paso on the 1st of February.

On the 8th the whole army, the mer-
chant, baggage, commissary, hospital, sut-
ler, and ammunition trains, and all the strag-
lers, amateurs, and gentlemen of leisure,
under flying colors, presenting the most
martial aspect, set out wiih buoyant hopes
for the city of Chihuahua. There the
soldiers expected to reap undying fame, —
to gain a glorious victory — or perish on the
field of honor. Nothing certain could be
learned of the movements of Gen. Wool's
column, which, at first, was destined to
operate against Chihuahua. Col. Doni-
phan's orders were merely to report to
Gen. Wool at that place, — not to invade
the State. Vague and uncertain informa-
tion had been obtained through the Mexi-
cans, that Gen. Wool's advance had, at one
time, reached Parras, but that the whole
column had suddenly deflected to the left,

for some cause to them and us equally un-
known. Thus was Col. Doniphan cir-
cumstanced. With an army le.-s than one
thousand strong, he was on his march,,
leading through inhospitable, sandy wastes,
against a powerful city, which had been
deemed of so much importance, by the
government, that Gen. Wool, with three
thousand five hundred men and a heavy
park of artillery, had been directed thither
to effect its subjugation. What then must
have been the feelings of Col. Doniphan
and his men, when they saw the slates of
Chihuahua and Durango in arms to re-
ceive them, not the remotest prospect of
succor from Gen. Wool, and rocks and
unpeopled deserts intervening, precluding
the possibility of successful retreat? "Vic-
tory or denlh" were the two alternatives.
Yet there was no faltering, — no pale faces,
— no dismayed hearts. At this crisis, had
Col. Doniphan inquired of his men what
was to be done, the response would have
been unanimously given, lead us on. But
he needed not to make the inquiry, for he
saw depicted in every countenance, the
fixed resolve "To do ok die." Col. Doni-
phan's responsibility was therefore very
great. The undertaking was stupendous.
His success was brilliant and unparalleled,,
Who then will deny him the just meed of
applause ?

A deep gloom enshrouded the State of
Missouri. Being apprised of Gen. Wool's
movements, the people of the Stale were
enabled t > appreciate the full extent of the
danger which threatened to overwhelm us.
They saw our imminently perilous situa-
tion. They felt for the unsuccored army.
The Executive himself was moved with
sympathy, and fearful apprehension for its
safety. But neither he nor the people
could avert the coming storm, or convey
timely warning to the commander of this
forlorn hope. He had therefore to rely
upon steel and the courage of his men.
The event is known.

The Colonel took with him Rnmond
Otiz, Pino, and three other influential men
of the malcontents, as hostages for the
future good behavior of the inhabitants of
El Paso. " By this means the safety of
traders, and of all other persons parsing
up or down the country, was guaranted;
for th'-y were forewarned that if any de-
predations were committed upon citizens of
the United States, at El Paso, they would
be put to death."

106

MARCH ACROSS THE DESERT.

Since that time no outrages have been
perpetrated, at El Paso, upon any Ameri-
can citizen. It was at El Paso that two
American soldiers conceived for two fair,
young, Mexican girls, an affection so strong
and ardent, that they did not choose to
march any further with the army. Having
marched with their companies one or two
days, they deserted camp, at night, and
returned to those they loved, and in a short
time married them.

On the evening of the 12th, the column
reached a point on the Del Norte, about
fifty miles below El Paso, where the road,
turning to the right, strikes off at right
angles with the river across the Jornada of
sixty -five miles in extent, running through
deep sand-drifts, nearly the whole way.
On this desert-tract there is not one drop
of water. Here, therefore, the command
came to a halt, and tarried one day, that
the men might prepare victuals, and such
a supply of water, as they had means of
conveying along with them, for the desert-
journey.

Col. Doniphan now called upon the
merchant caravan to meet, and organize
themselves into companies, and elect offi-
cers to command them. This he did, that
he might avail himself of their services,
in the event that the troops, which he
already had, should not prove sufficiently
strong to cope wih the enemy at Chihua-
hua. The merchants and the teamsters
in their employ were quickly organized
into two efficient companies, under Capts.
Skill man and Glasgow, forming a battalion
commanded by Samuel C. Owens, of Inde-
pendence, whom they elected Major.

This was a very effective corps, for both
the merchants and the teamsters were well
armed, and were very brave men. Be-
sides, having a large capital invested in
merchandize, they had the double incen-
tive to fight bravely, first for their property,
and then for their lives. These numbered
about one hundred aud fifty Avell armed
men. Here, all the Mexican powder, and
other munitions of war, which the colonel
had taken at El Paso, and for which he
had not the means of transportation, were
destroyed. The powder was burnt, and
the cannister-shot and arms thrown into
the river.

A few days previous to this, Clifford and
Gentry, a strong firm, the former an Eng-
lishman, and the latter an American, both
traveling with British passports, secretly

and dishonorably abandoned the merchant
caravan, and, contrary to their promise to
Colonel Doniphan, slipped off at night
with forty five wagons, and hastened on to
Chihuahua, and from thence to Zacntecas.

Now, Harmony, a Spaniard, and Poms,
a Mexican, fearing lest Doniphan might be
defeated at Chihuahua, were loath to pro-
ceed with their wagons any further, and
desired to turn back to El Paso, and there
make sale of their merchandize. This
could not be permitted without endangering
the safety of all; for the only safely was in
union. Therefore Lieut. Col. Mitchell,
Captain Reid, and Lieutenant Choteau,
with sixteen men, went back several miles
to compel these men to bring up their
trains. At first they pretended that the
Apaches had stolen all their mules, where-
fore they could not move their wagons.—-
But being threatened, they soon brought
their animals from a place where they had
purposely concealed them, that they might
be permitted to remain. In a short time
they were brought up, and forbidden to
leave the army again.

While at this place the author held a con-
versation with Ortiz, the curate, in regard
to the project of M. Guizot "/o preserve
Ike balance of power" by placing the son
of Louis Philippe or some other monarch
on the "throne of Mexico." The curate
observed : — "Such an idea is too prepos-
terous to deserve a serious consideration.
The Mexicans, and especially those in
the Northern States, would treat the propo-
sition, if made to them seriously, with
the indignation and contempt which it so
richly merits. Mexicans, not less than
Americans, love liberty. Mexico would
rather be conquered by a sister Republic
— rather lose her national existence, than
submit to be governed by a foreign
prince."

Having buried two brave men, Max-
well and Willis, on the 14th the army bade
adieu to the Great River of the North, and
commenced its march upon the dread frit
desert. Some of the men having no can
teens or other means of carrying water
tilled the sheaths of their sabres and swung
the naked blades jingling at their sides. —
C. F. Hughes, quartermaster sergeant, had
terrible work to force the trains, along
through the heavy sand-drifts. Oftentimes
he was compelled to double his teams, and
have a dozen or more men rolling at the
wheels, to induce the wagons to move at

DONIPHAN'S EXPEDITION.

107

all. The mules were weak, and sunk up
to their knees in the sand, the wagons
stood buried almost to. the hubs. Tims
were they embarrassed. The teams could
not move them. The soldiers and team-
sters would often leap down from their
horses and mules and roll the wagons along
with their hands until they got where the
sand was lighter. Thus it was all through
the desert. After an arduous march of
twenty miles, the army encamped upon
the plain without wood or water. On the
next day, towards sunset, the army passed
through a gap or canon in a range of
mountains which traverses the desert from
north to south. This mountain shoots up
abruptly fiom the plain into an innumera-
ble set of knobs and rocky peaks consist-
ing of dark, iron-colored, masses of basalt
and puddingstone, and in some places of
volcanic cinders. At this point, Lieuten-
ant Gordon, and Collins interpreter, with
twelve other men, fell in company with
Kirker's scouting party, which had been in
advance several days. Kirker's party
consisted of eight men. The whole now
(being twenty three in number) under
Lieutenant Gordon, proceeded far in ad-
vance of the army by direction from the
colonel, for the purpose of making a recon-
noissance at Carxizal, where they had un-
derstood a body of Mexicans were posted.
This place is en the other side of the
desert. Before their arrival there, how-
ever, the Mexican soldiery abandoned the
place. Therefore they entered it and took
military possession in the name of the
United States' government ; the Alcalde,
without offering the slightest resistance,
giving a written certificate of submission,
in which he claimed the colonel's clem-
ency and threw himself on the generosity
of the American army. He was not dis-
appointed in receiving the amplest protec-
tion. By this time there was not a drop
of water in the canteens, and all were suf-
fering extremely with thirst. At this hour
one of the artillerymen came up from Santa
Fe having in possession the United Stales'
mail ; the only one of consequence which
had been received for six months. Though
at this crisis nothing could have been so
refreshing to the body as cool water, yet
newspapers and letters from home had a
wonderfully cheering and talismanic influ-
ence on the mind. Not a word however,
could be learned of the movements of the
army of General Wool. After a toilsome

march of twenty four miles, about mid-
night the column halted to allow the men
and animals a little rest. But they had no
refreshment ; for the men were again
obliged to spend the night without their
suppers and without water. The animals
also were nearly perishing of thirst. It
was now still twenty one miles to water,
over a heavy sandy road, and the teams
had already become feeble and broken
down. Ortiz, the benevolent curate, al-
though a prisoner, and under a strict guard,
generously gave many of the soldiers a
draught of water, which he had provided
to be brought from the Del Norte in a
water vessel. For this and other in-
stances of kindness towards the author,
he now makes his grateful acknowledg-
ments.

The next morning by day-dawn the
army was on the march. The mules and
horses were neighing and crying piteonsly
for water. Some of them were too weak
to proceed further. They were abandoned.
Notwithstanding the eagerness of the men
to get to water, a strong front and rear
guard were detailed as usual, to prevent
surprise by the enemy. Towards night,
when the column had arrived within five
miles of the Laguna de los Palos, the men
could no longer be restrained in the lines,
but in the greatest impatience hurried on
in groups to quench their burning thirst
The commander seeing this, and knowing
how his men suffered, (for he too suffered
equally with them) did not attempt to pre-
vent it, but taking his whole force hastened
on to the lake as quick as possible, that all
might be satisfied ; having left an order for
Capt. Parsons, who commanded the rear
guard that day, to leave the trains, that his
men might have water and rest. It was
near sunset ; meanwhile the quartermaster-
sergeant, and the resolute and hardy team-
sters, had the task of a Hercules before
them in bringing up the trains through the
deep, heavy sand-drifts. Having arrived
within about ten miles of the Laguna, they
found it impossible to advance further.—
The rear guard had left them with the view
of getting water and then returning. They
were sometimes compelled to quadruple
the teams to move a wagon through the
deep sand. The animals were dying of
thirst and fatigue. Thirty-six yoke of
oxen had been turned loose. Two wagons
were abandoned amidst the sand hills. —
Eight thousand pounds of flour, and several

108

RAIN ON THE DESERT.

barrels of salt, had been thrown out upon
the ground. Also some of tlie sutlers
threw away their heavy commodities which
they could not transport. The trains
never could have proceeded ten miles far-
ther. But the God who made the fountain
leap from the rock to quench the thirst of
the Israelitish army in the desert, now sent
a cloud which hung upon the summits of
the mountains to the rig-ht, and such a co-
pious shower of rain descended that the
mountain-torrents came rushing and foam-
ing down from the rocks, and spread out
upon the plains in such quantities that both
the men and the animals were tilled. —
Therefore, they staid all night at this place
where the Gad*send had blessed -them, and
being much refreshed, next morning passed
out of the desert. All were now at La-
guna de los Patos. where they staid one day
to recruit and gain strength. This is a
beautiful lake of fresh water. It was here
that W. Tolley, a volunteer, who, as it is
said left a charming young bride at home,
drank so excessively of the cool, refresh-
ing element, after so many days of toil on
tlie desert, that he soon died. He was
buried near the margin of the lake. Tims
the army passed the desert sixty-live miles
in extent.

On the morning of the 18th, the column
and trains were again in motion. 0. F.
Hughes, in consideration of the service he
had rendered in pa:-sing the desert, was
now relieved from further duty by Mr.
Harrison. To the right, at the distance of
several miles from the Laguna, rises a stu-
pendous, pyramidal rock, many tlto sand
feet high. The existence of such abrupt,
detached, masses of mountains, shows that
the earth, by some wonderful agency, lias
been convulsed and upheaved. Who will
say that the flood, which inundated the
Old Worl I, may not have been produced
by the sudden upheavement. and emerge-
nient of the Western Continent, from the
ocean, by some All-powerful Agency? A
march of eighteen miles brought the Army
to Carrizal, where there was much cool
and t'eli fitful water, and where forage was
obtained in abundance.

At meridian on Sunday the 21st, the
command reached the celebrated " Ojo
Caliente." or Warm Spring, where the men
were again permitted to rest a few hours,
and make preparations for crossing another
desert forty-five miles wide without water.
From diis place Capt. Skillman, with

twelve volunteers, was dispatched to the
Laguna de Encenillas, to keep up a close
espionage on the movements of the enemy ;
for it was now anticipated that he would
give battle at that place. The Ojo Cali-
ente is at the base of a ledge of rocky hills,
and furnishes a vast volume of water, about
blood-warm, which runs off in the direc-
tion of the Patos. The basin of the spring
is about one hundred and twenty feet long
and seventy-five wide, with an average
depth of four feet. The bottom consists
of sparkling, wdiite sand, and the water is
perfectly transparent. No effort, by dis-
turbing the sand, was sufficient to becloud,
or muddy the crystal water.* Col. Doni-
phan, and many of his officers and men,
now enjoyed the most luxurious, and re-
juvinescent bathing. Thus refreshed, the
inarch was commenced upon the desert.
Having advanced twelve miles, the men
were encamped on the plain, without wood
or water, indispensable requisites for com-
fort in a military camp, after a hard day's
march.

Continuing the march the next day, a
carton was passed in a high and craggy
range of mountains, traversing the desert.
These huge masses of basslt, which rise in
many places two thousand feet almost per-
pendicularly, were capped with snow. —
Having completed twenty-two miles, die
men halted for the night, on a rocky, flinty-
spot of earth, where there was neither
wood, water, nor grass. Nor was it possi-
ble for the men to have the least comfort,
as it was extremely cold. They tethered
their animals, and wrapping themselves up ■
in their blankets, lay down on the earth
without taking supper.

The next day we marched twelve miles,
and came to the Guyagas Springs. These
issue in leapii.~, gushing, cool streamlets,
out from the western base of a system of
rocky bluffs, and refresh the neighboring
plain. Here the men and animals slaked"
their burning thirst. Under the jutting
rocks and archways of this mountain .range,
were seen dependant spar, crystal of quartz,
and the most brilliant stalactites. Here a
drove of twelve or thirteen antelopes, which
had been feeding on the sides of the cliffs,
seeing the men marching, and the banners

*This ojo caliente was formerly the seat of a
princely Hacienda, belonging to Poms, a Spanish
nabob, who at one time, had grazing on hLs pasture*
more than thirty-six thousand head of cattle and
sheep.

DONIPHAN'S EXPEDITION.

109

and guidons fluttering, were affrighted at
the unusual sight, and came bounding down
from the rocks, as though they would break
through the ranks ; but as they neared the
lines the men fired upon, and killed them
all, while bounding along. They were used
for food. This evidence of marksmanship
struck the Mexican prisoners with aston-
ishment, and caused them more than ever
to dread the American rifles. Here in a
narrow valley, with lofty, rocky ridges on
either hand, the men were dismounted and
allowed to rest for the night ; during which
M. Robards, a good soldier, died and was
buried.

From thence, they marched the next day
fifieen miles, and again encamped on the
plain, without wood or water. Here part
of the spies returned, and reported that
there were seven hundred Mexicans atEn-
cenillas, with artillery. Early the follow-
ing morning, ( which was the 25th.) Col.
Doniphan drew up his forces in order of
batde, and marched over to the north mar-
gin of the lake. Here he allowed his men
a short respite, and some refreshment. —
This lake is about twenty miles long, and
about three miles wide, and at the point
where the army first encamped, there were
near the margin white efflorescences of
soda on the surface of the ground. Either
this efflorescent soda, or the water of the
lake when put in flour, will quickly cause
it to rise, or leaven. It was used instead
of saleratus.

While nooning, the fire from one of the
tents caught into the tall dry grass, and by
a high wind was furiously driven over the
plain, threatening destruction to every thing
before it. In a short time the fire, which
had broken out in a similar manner, from
the camp near the Guyagas Springs, having
almost kept pace with the army, came
bursting and sweeping terribly over the
summits of the mountains, and descending
into the valley, united with the fire on the
margin of the lake. The conflagration,
now roaring and crackling, irresistibly
swept along. The flame rose in dashing
and bursting waves twenty feet high, and
threatened to devour the whole train. The
army -was now put upon the march, and
the trains endeavored to advance before the
flames ; but in vain. The wind blew stead-
ily and powerfully in the direction the army
was marching. The conflagration, gaining
new strength from every puff of wind,
came raging and sweeping like a wave. —

The column of flame, displaying a front of
many miles, steadily advanced along the
margin of the lake. This was a more ter-
rible foe than an "army with banners."—
The fire now gained upon the trains. The
ammunition wagons narrowly escaped. —
The artillery was run into the lake. Some
of the wagons still passed onward.

The road runs parallel to the lake, and
about two hundred yards from it. Colonel
Doniphan and his men endeavored to tram-
ple down the grass from the road to the
lake, in a narrow list, by frequently riding
over the same ground. They also rode
their hor.-es into the wafer, and then quick-
ly turned them upon the place Avhere the
grass was trodden dovvn, that they might
moisten it, and thereby stop the progress of
the fire, between the road and the lake. —
But still the flames passed over, and heed-
lessly swept along. Capt. Reid with the
'•Horse Guards," adopting a different plan,
upon the suggestion of a private, ordered
his men to dismount about two miles in
advance of the trains, and with their sabres
hew and chop down the grass from the road
to the lake, on a space thirty feet broad,
and throw the cut grass out leeward. This
was done. • Fire was now set to the grass
standing next to the wind, which burned
slowly until it met the advancing conflagra-
tion. Thus the fire was checked on one
side of the road.

On the other side, the volume of flame,
increasing as the gale rose, rolled nlong the
plain, and over the mountains, roaring and
crackling, and careering in its resistless
course, until the fuel which fed it was ex-
hausted. The men spent the night on the
bare and blackened earth, and the animals
stood to their tethers without forage.

On the south-western side of this lake,
and near its margin, stands the princely ha-
cienda of Don Angel Trias, governor of
Chihuahua. On this estate immense herds
of cattle and flocks of sheep are produred.
But the Mexican soldiers, seven hundred
of whom on the morning of the 25th had
been seen at the hacienda, had driven them
all off, to prevent the Americans from sub-
sisting on them. On the night of the 25th,
and before it was known that the soldiery
had evacuated the post, Capt, Reid, with
twenty-five of the Horse Guards, volun-
teered to make a reconnoissance of the ene-
my, and report his position and strength.
As, in the event the enemy was still ocf-t
pying his position at the hacienda, strong

110

CAPT. REID'S ADVENTURE.

guards would most probably be posted near
the roads leading into the place from above
and below the lake, the scouts, to prevent
falling upon the guards, and to take the ene-
my by surprise, if it should be deemed ad-
visable to attack him, crossed the lake,
which was near three miles wide, and both
deep and boggy, and hitherto considered
impas.-able. Reaching the opposite shore,
they saw no sentinel. Therefore they ap-
proached nearer. Sail they saw no sentry.
Cautiously, and with light footsteps, and in
almost breathless silence, without a whis-
per or the jingling of a sabre, and under cov-
ering of the dark, they advanced a litde. —
They heard the sound of music, and at in-
tervals the tramping of horses. Perhaps
it was the military patrol. None knew.

They now rode around the hacienda ;
but the high walls precluded the possibili-
ty of seeing within. No satisfactory re-
connoissance could, therefore, be made.
Not wishing to return to camp without ef-
fecting their object, the captain and his
men, like McDonald and his mad-caps at
Georgetown, made a sweeping dash, with
drawn sabre and clattering arms, into the
hacienda, to the infinite alarm of the
inhabitants. They now had possession.
The seven hundred soldiers had started,
about an hour previous, to Sacramento.
This was a bold and hazardous exploit.
Then they quartered in the place, which
contains several hundred inhabitants, and
were sumptuously entertained by the Ad-
ministrador del Hacienda.* The next
morning they rejoined the army, then on
the march, having with them several wild
Mexican cattle. The whole force now
moved on to a fort called Sanz, on a creek
discharging into the Laguna de Encenillas.
Here they encamped.

The next day the army and trains, in-
cluding the merchant wagons, were drawn
up in order of battle, ready to manoeuvre
expeditiously in the event of a sudden at-
tack. The enemy was known to be at no
great distance, f Thus the march was

* These fearless men were Captain Reid, C. Hu-
man, F. C. Hughes, W. Russell, J. Cooper, T.
Bradford, Todd, \. Walker, L. A. Maclean, C.
Clarkin, Long, T. Forsythe, Tungitt, Brown, W.
McDaniel, J. P. Campbell, T. Waugh, J. Vaughan,
Boyce, Stewart, Antwine, and A. Henderson and
J. Kirker, interpreters, and one or two others.

4 Captain Skillman this day puiaued one of the
enemy's spies into the mountains so closely (hat
Lc captured his horse, but the Mexican, leaping off
escaped on foot among the rocks.

continued until night over a level, beautiful
valley, with a high range of mountains
running along on the left, and, at a greater
distance, also on the right. A short time
before sunset Lieutenant-colonel Mitchell,
Lieutenants Winston and Sproule, Corporal
Goodfellow, the author and one other vol-
unteer, having proceeded about nine miles
in advance of the column, and within five
miles of the enemy's fortified position at
Sacramento, ascended a high, rocky peak
of the mountain, and, with good telescopes,
enjoyed a fair view of the whole Mexican
encampment. The enemy's whole line of
field-works was distinctly viewed ; the po-
sition of his batteries ascertained ; and his
probable numbers estimated. The result
of this reconnoissance was duly reported to
Colonel Doniphan, whereupon he imme-
diately called a council of officers, and ma-
tured a plan for the conduct of the march
on the following day. This night also the
army encamped on a tributary of the lake
of Encenillas.

On Sunday, the 28th of February, a
bright and auspicious day, the American
army, under Colonel Doniphan, arrived in
sight of the Mexican encampment at Sa-
cramento, which could be distinctly seen
at the distance of four miles. His com-
mand consisted of the following corps and
detachments of troops :

The 1st regiment, Col. Doniphan, num-
bering about eight hundred men ; Lieuten-
ant-colonel Mitchell's escort, ninety seven
men ; arti lery battalion, Major Clark and
Captain Weightman, one hundred and se-
venteen men, with a light field battery of
six pieces of cannon ; and two companies
of teamsters, under Captains Skillman and
Glasgow, forming an extra battalion of
about one hundred and fifty men, com-
manded by Major Owens, of Indepen-
dence, making an aggregate force of one
thousand one hundred and sixty-four men,
all Missouri volunteers. The march of the
day was conducted in the following order:
the wagons, near four hundred in all, were
thrown into four parallel files, with spaces
of thirty feet between each. In the centre
space marched the artillery battalion ; in=
the space to the right, the 1st battalion, and
in the space to the left, the 2d battalion.
Masking these in front marched the three
companies intended to act as cavalry, the
Missouri horse guards, under Captain
Reid, on the right, the Missouri dragoons
under Captain Parsons on the left, and the

DONIPHAN'S EXPEDITION.

in

Chihuahua rangers under Captain Hudson
in the centre. Thus arranged, they ap-
proached the scene of action*

The enemy had occupied the brow of a
rocky eminence rising upon a plateau be-
tween the river Sacramento and the Ar-
roya Seca, and near the Sacramento fort,
eighteen miles from Chihuahua, and forti-
fied its approaches by a line of field-works,
consisting of twenty-eight strong redoubts
and intrenchments. Here, in this appa-
rently secure position, the Mexicans had
determined to make a bold stand ; for this
pass was the key to the capital. So cer-
tain of victory were the Mexicans that they
had prepared strings and hand-cuffs in
which they meant to drive us, prisoners, to
the city of Mexico, as they did the Texans
in 1841. Thus fortified and intrenched, the
Mexican army, consisting, according to a
consolidated report of the adjutant-general
which came into Col. Doniphan's posses-
sion after the battle, of four thousand two
hundred and twenty men, commanded by
Major-general Jose A. Heredia; aided by
General Garcia Conde, former minister of
war in Mexico, as commander of cavalry ;
General Matiricia Ugarte commander of
infantry ; General Justiniani, commander
of artillery, and Governor Angel Trias,
brigadier-general, commanding the Chi-
huahua volunteers, awaited the approach
of the Americans.

When Col. Doniphan arrived within
one mile and a half of the enemy's fortifi-
cations, (a reconnoissance of his position
having been made by Major Clark) leaving
the main road which passed within the
range of his batteries, he suddenly deflec-
ted to the right, crossed the rocky Arroya,
expeditiously gained the plateau beyond,
successfully deployed his men into line
upon the highland, causing the enemy to
change his first position, and made the as-
sault from the west. This was the best
point of attack that could possibly have
been selected. The event of the day
proves how well it was chosen.

In passing the Arroya the caravan and
baggage trains followed close upon the
rear of the army. Nothing could exceed in
point of solemnity and grandeur the rum-
bling of the artillery, the firm moving of

* An eagle, sometimes soaring aloft and some-
times swooping down amongst the fluttering ban-
ners, followed along the lines all day, and seemed
to herald the news of victory. The men regarded
the omen as good.

the caravan, the dashing to and fro of
horsemen, and the waving of banners and
gay fluttering guidons, as both armies ad-
vanced to the attack on the rocky plain ;
for at this crisis General Conde, with a
select body of twelve hundred cavalry,
dashed down from the fortified heights to
commence the engagement. When within
nine hundred and fifty yards of our align-
ment, Major Clark's battery of six poun-
ders, and VVeightman's section of howitzers
opened upon them a well-directed and most-
destructive firp, producing fearful execu-
tion in their ranks. In some disorder they
fell back a short distance, unmasking a
battery of cannon, which immediately com-
menced its fire upon us. A brisk can-
nonading was now kept up on both sides
for the space of fifty minutes, during which
time the enemy suffered great loss, our
battery discharging twenty-four rounds to
the minute. The balls from the enemy's
cannon whistled through our ranks in rapid
succession. Many horses and other animals
were killed, and the wagons much shattered.
Sergeant A. Hughes, of the Missouri dra-
goons, had both his legs broken by a can-
non-ball. In this action the enemy, who
were drawn up in columns four deep,
close order, lost about twenty-five killed,
besides u great number of horses. The
Americans, who stood dismounted in two
ranks, open order, suffered but slight in-
jury.

General Conde with considerable disor-
der now fell back and rallied his men be-
hind the intrenchments and redoubts.—-
Col. Doniphan immediately ordered the
buglers to sound the advance. Thereupon
the American army moved forward in the
following manner, to storm the enemy's
breastworks:

The artillery battalion, Major Clark, in
the centre, firing occasionally on the ad-
vance ; the 1st battalion, commanded by
Lieutenant-colonels Jackson and Mitchell,
composing the right wing; the two select
companies of cavalry under Captains Keid
and Parsons, and Captain Hudson's mount-
ed company, immediately on the left of
the artillery ; and the 2d battalion on the
extreme left commanded by Major Gilpin.
The caravan and baggage trains, under
command of Major Owens, followed close
in the rear. Col. Doniphan and his aids,,
Capt. Thompson, U. S. Army, adjutant.
De Courcy, and Sergeant-major Crenshaw
acted between die battalions.

112

BATTLE OF SACRAMENTO.

At this crisis a body of three hundred
lancers, and lazadorn, were discovered
advancing upon our rear. These were
exclusive of Heredia's main force, and were
said to be criminals, turned loose from the
Chihuahua prisons, that by some gallant
exploit they might expurgate themselves
of crime. To ihis end they were posted in
the rear to cut off stragglers, prevent retreat,
and capture and plunder the merchant
wagons. The battalion of teamsters kept
these at bay. Besides this force there
were one thousand spectators, women, cit-
izens, and rancheros, perched on the sum-
mits of the adjacent mountains and hills,
watching the event of the day.

As we neared the enemy's redoubts, still
inclining to the right, a heavy fire was
opened upon us from his different batteries,
consisting in all of sixteen pieces of can-
non. t But owing to the facility with which
our movements were performed, and to
the fact that the Mexicans were compelled
to fire plungingly upon our lines, (their
position being considerably elevated above
the plateau, and particularly the battery
placed on the brow of the Sacramento
mountain with the design of enfilading out-
column,) we sustained but little damage.

When our column had approached with-
in about four hundred yards of the enemy's
line of field works, the three cavalry com-
panies, under Capts. Reid, Parsons, and
Hudson, and Weightman's section of how-
itzers, were ordered to carry the main
central battery, which had considerably
annoyed our lines, and which was protected
by a strong bastion. The charge was not
made simultaneously as intended by the
colonel ; for this troop, having spurred
forward a little way, was halted for a mo-
ment under a heavy cross-fire from the
enemy, by the adjutant's mis-apprehending
the order. However, Capt. Reid, either
not hearing or disregarding the adjutant's
order to halt, leading the way, waved his
sword, and rising in his stirrups, exclaimed,
" will my men follow me?" Hereupon
Lieuts. Barnett, Hinton, and Moss, with
about twenty-five men, bravely sprang for-
ward, rose the hill with the captain, car-
ried the battery and for a moment silenced
the guns. But we were too weak 10 hold
possession of it. By the overwhelming
force of the enemy we were beaten back,
and many of us wounded. Here Major
Samuel C Owens, who had voluntarily
charged upon the redoubt, received a can-

non or musket shot which instantly killed
both him and his horse. Capt. Raid's
horse was shot under him, and a gallant
young man of the same name immediately
dismounted, and generously offered the
captain his.

By this time the remainder of Captain
Reid's company under lieutenant Hicklin,
and the section of howitzers under Capt.
Weightman, and Lieuts. Choteau, and
Evans, rose the hill, and supported Capt.
Reid. A deadly volley of grape and can-
nister shot mingled with yager-balls, quick-
ly cleared the intrenchments and the
redoubt. The battery was re-taken and
held. Almost at the same instant Capts.
Parsons and Hudson, with the two remain-
ing companies of cavalry, crossed the
intrenchments to Reid's left, and success-
fully engaged with the enemy. They
resolutely drove him back and held the
ground.

All the companies were now pressing for-
ward, and pouring over the intrenchments,
and into the redoubts, eagerly vieing with
each other in the noble struggle for victory.
Each company, as well as each soldier, was
ambitious to excel. Companies A, B, C,
and a part of company D, composing the
right wing, all dismounted, respectively un-
der command of Capts. Waldo, Walton,
Moss, and Lieut. Miller, led on by Lieut.
Cols. Jackson and Mitchell, stormed a for-
midable line of redoubts on the enemy's
left, defended by severd pieces of cannon,
and a great number of resolute and well-
armed men. A part of this wing took pos-
session of the strong battery on Sacramento
hill, which had kept up a continued cross-
firing upon our right during the whole en-
gagement. Cols. Jackson and Mitchell,
and their captions, lieutenants, non-com-
missioned officeis, and men generally, be-
haved with commendable gallantry. Many
instances of individual prowess were exhi-
bited. But it is invidious to distinguish
between men where all performed their.
duty so nobly.

Meanwhile the left wing also dismount-
ed, commanded by Major Gilpin, a gallant
and skillful officer, boldly sealed the heights,
passed the intrenchments, cleared the re-
doubts, and with considerable slaughter
forced the enemy to retreat from his posi-
tion on the right. Company G, under
Capt. Hughes, and a part of company F,
under Lieut. Gordon, stormed a battery of
three brass four pounders strongly defended

PLAN OF THK IJATTLK OF S A C K A M E N T O .

Explanation.

.. r r Redoubts and inlrenchments. filled with Mexi-
u > ^rau infantry.

1 K rst position U. S. fores. 2. Second do. a. First
position Mexican cava'ry. b. Second position Mexican
do. e. Fr<i pos t'on .Mexican infantry, d. Second po-
sto-i Mexican cavalry and in anlry.

A A R«d. and intrench, stormed by Capt. Reid's Horse
Guar 'a

B Rrst position oflhe howitzers on hill.

C Sre! I •■ •• ■■ ../

P 0 0 R -doubts and intretschmenta inken hv the 1st halt.

EEEE R<*!l.an«i Intrench, taken hy&Hial anil Mo. Drag.

F Major Clark's hatl.d snersingthe rally ofMex'cancav.

H Fo irt'i pos ton Major Clark's bait., from which he
8 lenccd the fort on Saeratn-n'o hill.

List of Officers.

Col. A. W. Doniphan, Comm.U. S. Forces.— Staff— Capt.
Totnpson. U.S. D. A. de. C— Lieut. De Conrcy. Adjt.

Sins;.. Morton: Asm. S.. Moore &. Morton.

Artillery; Miij. Clark. Ad.il. Walker. Capt. Weightman,
— Seci'n llowit/.: Lieut?. Chouteau and F.vaus.
' Sir Ib'rx • I, is. Dom. Kribbcn. I.aheaume.

Cavalry; Missouri Horse Guards, Capt. Reid.— Lis., Hin-
lon. Burnett. Moss anil Hicklin.

Mils. Drag; Capt. Parsons. — Lts.,Winston & Harrison.

Chihuahua Runs.: Capt. Hudson.— Lls.Sproule&Todd.

Infantry; l.t. Cols. Mitchell and Jackson— Maj. Gilpin.
— Capts.. Waldo. Walton. Moss. Slevensons. Hughes, and
Rogers.— Lis.. Reed Clavton.Chiids, I.ea.G raves. Sublette,
Ogden. Miller. Hush. M'Danald. Campbell, Gordon, jack-
son. Wright. Duncan and Murray.

HnTK.— Strength rf tlie U S. Forces: Total. 9-24 — 6 pieces artillery —Loss. I killed and 1L woonded (3 mortally) —
Mexican .- 4C24 — 10 pieces artillery and 9 culvs.— Killed 320, wounded, 500, 72 prisoners.

CHARGE OF CAPTAIN REID, AT SACRAMENTO'.

Note. — As Lieutenant-colonel Jackson, at the head of the first battalion, charged over the enemy's
breastworks, with his long shot-gun in one hand and his drawn sabre in the other, almost the only order
he gave, just at that time, was : " Now, boys, every man for his turkey/" And, it is said, almost
every man singled out his "yallow fellow" as. the colonel called the Mexicans, aud brought the bead
to bear upon him with as much certainty as if he were shooting at wild game in the forests of
Missouri.

The next morning after the battle, Colonel Doniphan called on his battalion officers for a
report of their respective commands. Majors Clark and Gilpin, each furnished a detailed account
of the conduct of the troops under his immediate control. When he called on Lieutenant-colonel
Jackson, for his report, he observed :• "Colonel! I am not a writing 'man — all I have to my is,
that my men fought like h — //, and ivh pped everything before them /"

The next day after the battle, Dr. Reese, who had been carried to Parral, as a prisoner, ef-
fected his escape. On his return to Chihuahua, he met many of the Mexicans, on the retreat
towards Durango. The retreating host permitted him to pass on uninterrupted. At length be
met a Mexican in full gallop, and almost frantic with despair. The Doctor hailed to him, and
asked him whither he was going, in such haste. " Corrajo .' I am running from those d — n — d
hairy Americans ! They fight like devils incarnate .'"

One of the lieutenants of the Mexican artillery stood to his guns, until he was wounded
and captured. Colonel Doniphan asked him if he did not know, before the action came on,
that the Mexicans would be defeated. The lieutenant replied; " I did not; and if they had stood
to their posts, as I encouraged them to do, you never could have driven us from our strong posi-
tion. I am now your prisoner ,- but I do not regret, fighting for the liberty and honor of my
country. I will stilt encourage my people to resist foreign invasion." Colonel Doniphan was so
well pleased with the patriotic devotion of the young officer, that he immediately gave him hw
liberty.

DONIPHAN'S EXPEDITION.

115

by embankments, and ditches filled hy res-
olute and well-armed Mexican infantry.
Some of the artillerists were made prison-
ers while endeavoring to touch off* the can-
non. Companies H and E, under Capts.
Rodgers and Stephenson, and a part of
Hudson's company under Lieut. Todd, on
the extreme left, behaved nobly, and fought
with great courage. They beat the Mexi-
cans from their strong places, and chased
them like blood-hounds. Major Gilpin
was not behind his men in bravery — he
encouraged them to tight by example.

Major Clark with his six pounders and
Capt. Weightman with his howitzers, du-
ring '-he whole action rendered the most
signal and essential service, and contributed
much towards the success of the day. The
gallant charge led by Capt. Reid and sus-
tained by Capt. Weightman, in point of
daring and brilliancy of execution, has not
been excelled by any similar exploit during
the war.

Gen. Heredia made several unsuccessful
attempts to rally his retreating forces, to
infuse into their minds new courage, and
to close up the breaches already made in
his Hues. Gen. Conde, with his troop of
horse, also vainly endeavored to check the
advance of the Missourians. They were
dislodged from their strong places, and
forced from the hill in confusion.

The rout of the Mexican army now
became general, and the slaughter continued
until night put an end to the chase. The
battle lasted three hours and a half. The
men returned to the battle-field after dark,
completely worn out and exhausted with
fatigue. The Mexicans lost 304 men,
killed on the field, and a large number
wounded, perhaps not less than 500, and
70 pr soners, among whom was Brig. Gen.
Cuiha," together with a vast quantity of
provisions, six thousand dollars in specie,
50,000 head of sheep, 1,500 head of cattle,
100 mules, 20 wagons, 25 or 30 caretas,
25,000 pounds of ammunition, 10 pieces
of cannon of different calibres, varying
from 4 to 9 pounders, 6 culverins or wall
pieces, 100 stand of small arms, 100 stand
of small colors, 7 fine carriages, the gene-
ral's scrutoinj, and many other things of
less note. Our loss was Major Samuel C.
Owens, killed, and 11 wounded,! three of
whom have subsequently died.

* Gen. Cuilta was captured in Chihuahua, March
4th, by Lieut. Col. Jackson, and Capt. Hughes.
"f See note * in next column.

Thus was the army of Central Mexico
totally defeated, and completely disorgan-
ized, by a column of Missouri volunteers.
The Mexicans retreated precipitately to
Durango, and dispersed among the ranch os
and villages. Their leaders were never
able to rally diem.

In ihis engagement Col. Doniphan was
personal y much exposed, and by reason
of his suture was a conspicuous mark for
the fire of the enemy's guns. He was all
the while at the proper place, whether to
dispense his orders, encourage his men, o(
to use his sabre in thinning the enemy's
ranks.t His effective force actually en-
gaged was about nine hundred and fifty
men, including a considerable number of
amateur fighters, among whom James
L. Collins, James Kirker, Messrs. Hen-
derson and Anderson, interpreters, Major
Campbell, and James Stewart, deserve to
be favourably mentioned. They fought
bravely. It was impossible for Captains
Skillman and Glasgow to bring their com-
panies of teamsters into the action. They
deserve great honor for their gallantry in
defending the trains. The soldiers encamp-
ed on the battle-field, within the enemy's
intrenchinents, and feasted sumptuously
upon his viands, wines and pound-cakes.
There they rested.;):

* Wou\i)Kn. — In Capt. 1'eid's mounted company :
A. A Kirkpatrick, mortally ; J. L. MacGruder, mor-
tally; J. Barnes, arm broken; L. A. MacLean, se-
verely ; J. Sullivan, slightly ; J. T. Hughes, slight-
ly. In Captain Parsons' mounted company : — W.
Henkey. mortally ; W. Gordon, severely ; Serg't A.
Hughes, hoth legs broken ; J. B. Fleming, severely.
In Hudson's mounted company : — J. Wolf, slightly.

| His courage and gallant conduct were only
equalled hy his clear foresight, and great judgment.

\ Previous to the commencement of the hattle,
the hostage, Ortiz, manifested considerable uneasi-
ness, and showed an evident disposition not to he
carried near the scene of strife, lest he too should
suffer in the general slaughter, which he apprehend-
ed would take place among the Americans. He said
\r> Col. Doniphan : — " Your force is too weak to con-
tend against such a force as the Mexican army, and
in so strong a position: — you will all he inevitably
destroyed, orcapiured and put in chains. The Mexi-
cans will whip you beyond a doubt. I beg that you
will permit me to remain out of danger." Col.
Doniphan good humoredly replied : — ' If 1 should be
victorious I will continue to treat you in a manner
every way worthy your dignity. If your own peo-
ple should be the conquerers. and you should fall
into their hands, thfy will certanly do you no hurt.
So, being safe in cither event, you must have little
cause of apprehension." When the battle was over,
On!. Doniphan observed to the cnraie: — ' Well,
Ortiz, what think you now about the Mexican*
' whipping' my boys';" The other replied : — " Ah •

116

DONIPHAN'S EXPEDITION.

Col. Doniphan, not like Hannibal loiter-
ing on the plains of Italy, after the battle
of Cannae, when he might have entered
Rome in triumph, immediately followed up
his success, and improved the advantage
Which his victory gave him. Early the
next morning, (March 1st) he dispatched
Lieutenant-colonel Mitchell, with one hun-
dred and fifty men under command of Cap-
tains Reid and Weigh tinan, and a section
of artillery, to take formal possession of
the capital, and occupy it in the name of
his government. This detachment, before
arriving in the city, was met by several
American gentlemen escaping from confine-
ment, who represented that the Mexican
soldiery had left the place undefended, and
fled with the utmost precipitation to Du-
rango. The Spanish consul, also, came
out with the flag of his country, to salute
and acknowledge the conqueror. This
small body of troops entered and took
military possession of Chihuahua, without
the slightest resistance, and the following
night occupied the Cuartel near Hidal-
go's monument, which stands in the Ala-
meda.

Meanwhile Col. Doniphan and his men
collected the booty, tended the captured
animals, refitted the trains, remounted those
who had lost their steeds in the action, ar-

sir, they would have defeated you, if you had fought
like men, tiut you fought like devils."

While the battle was raging, Captain Glasgow, of
the merchant battalion, came up (olhe colonel, who
was standing upon the hill from which the Mexicans
had been repulsed, and asked him how the day was
about to issue: " Diii't you see" says the colonel,
" how mi/ buys are knocking them down Lke nine-
pins ?"

Just previous to the charge, the right and lefi
wings were dismounted, and every seventh man de-
tailed to hold horses. At this moment the volley of
musketry, grape, and cannister, from the enemy's
lines was tremendous. As Col. Doniphan passed up
the lines, a volunteer, who had seven horses in
charge, called to him and said, " See here, Colonel!
am I compelled to stand here in this temped of can-
non and miskel balls-, anil hold horses?" " Yes,"
6ays the colonel. " if yo:t are detailed for the pur-
pose." The volunteer quickly tying the several
bridles together, dashed them down, seized his gun
and sabre, and started off in the charge, exclaiming
as he left the colonel, '• Hjld hell in a fight .' 1
didn't corns here to hold horses — / can do that at
Juiint"

As ihp right wijrig scaled the breast-works, sergeant
Tom Hinekle was one of the first who crossed the
intrenchments. and got amongst the enemy. Hav-
ing fired bis yager and pistols, he was too hotly be-
leaguered to reload them. He laid them aside, and
like Ajax 'lYIamou, resolutely defended himself by
llurowing rocks.

ranged the preliminaries of a procession,
and having marched a few miles, encamped
for the night. On the morning of the 2d
day of March, Col. Doniphan, with all his
military trains, the merchant caravan, gay,
fluttering colors, and the whole spolia
opima, triumphantly entered the city to the
tunes of " Yankee Doodle" and " Hail
Columbia," and fired in the public square
a national salute of twenty-eight guns. — «
This was a proud moment for the Ameri-
can troops. The battle of Sacramento
gave them the capital, and now the stars
and stripes, and serpent-eagle of the model
republic, were streaming victoriously over
the strong hold of Central Mexico.

Colonel Doniphan's official account of
the memorable battle of the 28th of Feb
ruary is here subjoined :

Hjad Quarters of the Army ,• Chihuahua, >
City of Chihuahua, March 4th, 1847. 3

1 have the honor to report to you the movement
of the army under my command since my last offi-
cial report.

On the evening of the 8th of February 1847, we
left the town of El Paso del Norte, escorting the
merchant train or caravan of three hundred and fif-
teen wagons, for the city of Chihuahua. Our force
consisted of nine hundred and twenty four effective
men ; one hundred and seventeen officers and pri-
vates of the artillery; ninety three of J.ieutenant-
colorjfl Mitchell's escort, and the remainder, of the
first regiment Missouri mounted volunteers. We
progressed in the direction of this place until the
"25 h, when we were informed by our spies that the
enemy, to the number of one thousand five hundred
men, were at Encinillas, the country seat of govemoi
Trias, about twenty five miles in advance.

When we arrived on the evening of the 26th,
near the point, we found that the force had retreated
in the direction of this city. On the evening of the
"27th we arrived at Sans, and learned fro:n our spies
that the enemy, in great force had fortified the pasa
of the Sacramento river, about fifteen miles in ad-
vance, and about the same distance from this city.
We were also informed that there was no water be-
tween the point we were at and that occupied by the
enemy; we therefore determined to halt until morn-
ing. At sunrise on the 28th, the last day of Feb-
ruary, we took up the line of march and fjrmed the
whole train, consisting of three hundred and fifteen
heavy traders' wagons, and our commissary and
company wagons, into four columns, thus shorten-
ing our line so as to make it more easily protected.
We placed the artillery and all the commands ex-
cept two hundred cavalry proper, in the intervals be-
tween the columns of wagons. We thus fully con-
cealed our force and its position by masking our
fi>rcc with the cavalry. When we arrived within
three miles of the enemy, we made a reconnoissance
of his position and the arrangement of his forces. —
This we could easily do, the road leading through,
an open prairie valley between the sterile mountains.
The pass of the Sacramento is formed by a point of
the mountains on our right, their left extending into
the valley or plain so as to narrow the valley to about

DONIPHAN'S EXPEDITION.

ir

one and a half miles. On our left was a Jeep dry
channel of a creek, and between these points the
plain rises to sixty feet abruptly. This rise is in
the form of a crescent, the convex part being to the
north of our forces. On the right, lrom ihc point of
mountains, a narrow part of the plain extends north
one and a half miles further than on the left. The
main road passes down (he centre of the valley and
across the crescent, near the left or dry branch.

The Sacramento rises in the mountain on the
right, and the road foils on it about one mile below
the battle-field or intrenchment of the enemy. We
ascertained that the enemy had one battery of four
guns, two nine and six pounders on the point of the
mountain on our right (their left) at good elevation to
sweep the plain, and at the point where the moun-
tains extended furthest into the plain. On our left
(their right) they had another battery on an eleva-
tion commanding the road, and three intrenchments
of two six pounders, and on the brow of the cres-
cent near the centre, another of two, six and four,
and six culverins, or rampart pieces, mounted on
carriages; and on the crest of the hill or ascent be-
tween the batteries, and on the right and left, thev
had twenty seven redoubts dug and thrown up, ex-
tending at short intervals across the whole ground.
In these their infantry were placed and were entirely
protected. Their cavalry was drawn up in front of
the redoubts in the intervals four deep, and in front
of the redoubts two devp, so as to mask them as far
as practicable. When we had arrived within one
end a half miles of the intrenchments along the
main road, we advanced the cavalry still further, and
suddenly diverged with the column to the right so
as to gain the narrow part of the ascert on our
right which the enemy discovering, endeavored to
prevent by moving forward with one thousand cav-
alry and four pieces of cannon in their rear masked
by them. Our movements were so rapid that we
gained the elevation with our forces and the advance
of our wagons in time to form before they arrived
within reach of our guns. The enemy halted, and
we advanced the head of our column within
twelve hundred yards of them, so as to let our wag-
ons attain the high lands and form as before.

We now commenced the action hy a brisk fire
from our battery, and the enemy unmasked and com-
menced also; our fire proved effective at this dis-
tance, killing fifteen men, wounding many more,
and disabling one of the enemy's guns. We had
two men slightly wounded, and several horses and
mules killed. The enemy then slowly retreated be-
hind their works in some confusion, and we resumed
our march in our former order, still diverging more
to the right to avoid their battery on our left, (their
right.) and their strongest redoubts, which were on
the left, near where the road passes. After march-
ing as far as we safely could, without coming within
range of their heavy battery on our right. Captain
Weightman, of the artillery, was ordered to charge
with the two 12-pound howitzers, to be supported
by tiie cavalry, under Capts. Reid, Parsons, and
Hudson. The howitzers charged at speed, and were
gallantly sustained hy Capt. Reid ; but, by some
misunderstanding, my order was not given to the
other two companies Capt. Hudson, anticipating
my order, charged in time to give ample support to
the howitzers. Capt. Parsons, at the same moment,
came to me, and asked permission for his company
to charge the redoubts immediately to the left of

Capt. Weightman, which he did very gallantly. — >
The remainder of the two battalions of the regiment
were dismounted during the cavaby charge, and
followed rapidly on fiot, and Major Llaikeadvanced
as fast as possible with the remainder of die battery;
we charged their redoubts from right to left, with a
brisk and deadly fire of riflemen, while Major Clarke
opened a rapid and well-directed fire on a column
of cavalry attempting to pass to our left so as to at-
tack the wagons, and our rear. The fire was so
well-directed as to force them to fall back ; and our
riflemen, with the cavalry and howitzers, cleared
the hill after an obstinate resistance. Our force ad-
vanced to the very brink of their redoubts, and at-
tacked them with their satires. When the redoubts
were cleared, and the batteries in the centre and our
left were silenced, the main battery on our right still
continued to pour in a constant and heavy fire, as it
had done during the heat of the engagement; but
as the whole fate of the battle depended upon carry-
ing the redoubts and centre battery, this one on the
right remained unattacked, and the enemy had ralli-
ed there, five hundred strong.

Major Clarke was directed lo commence a heavy
fire upon if, while Lieutenants-Colonel Mitchell
and Jackson, commanding the 1st battalion, were
ordered to remount and charge the 1 altery on the
left, while Major Gilpin was directed to march the
2d battalion on foot up the rough, ascent of the moun-
tain on the opposite side. The fire of our battery
was so effective as to completely silence theirs, and
the rapid advance of our column put them to flight
over the mountains in great confusion.

Captain Thompson, of the 1st dragoons, acted as
my aid and adviser on the field during the whole
engagement, and was of the most essential service
to me. Also, Lieut. Wooster of the U. S. army,
who acted very coolly and gallantly. Major Camp-
hell, of Springfield, Missouri, also acted as a volun-
teer aid during part of the time, but left me and
joined Capt. Reid in his gallant charge. Thus end-
ed the battle of Sacramento. The force of the ene-
my was 1,200 cavalry from Durango and i hihua-
hua, with the Vera Cruz dragoons, and 1,200 in-
fantry from Chihuahua, 300 artillerists, and 1,420
rancheros, badly armed with lassos, lancts, and nia-
ehetos, or corn knives, ten pieces of artillery, 2 nine,
4 eight, and 2 four-pounders, and six eulverins, or
rampart pieces. Their forces were commanded by
Major General Hendea, general of Durango, Chi-
huahua, Sonora, and New Mexico ; Brig. General
Justiniani, Brig. Gen. Garcia Conde! formerly min-
ister of war for the republic of Mexico, who is a sci-
entific man, and planned this whole field of defence;
Gen. Uguarte, and Governor Trias, who acted as
brigadier general on the field, and colonels and other
officers without number.

Our force was nine hundred and twenty-four ef-
fective men, at least one hundred of whom were en-
gaged in holding horses and driving teams.

The loss of the enemy was his entire artillery. 30
wagons, masses of beans and pinola, and other Mex-
ican provisions, about three hundred killed and
the same i umber wounded, many of whom have
since died, and forty prisoners.

The field was literally covered with the dead and
wounded from our artillery and the unerring fire of
our riflemen. Night put a stop to the carnage, tho
battle having commenced about three o'clock. Our
loss was one killed, one mortally wounded, and sev»

113

DONIPHAN'S PROCLAMATION.

en so wounded as to recover without the loss of
limbs. I cannot speak too highly of the coolness,
gallantry, and hravery of the officers and men under
my command.

I was ably sustained by the field officers, Lieut,
colonels Mitchell and Jackson, of the first battalion
and Major Gilpin, of the 2d battalion ; and Major
Clark and his artillery acted nobly and did the most
effective service in every part of the field. It is
abundantly shown, in the charge made by Captain
Weightman with the section of howitzers, that they
can be used in any charge of cavalry with great ef-
fect. Much has been, and justly said of the gal-
lantry of our artillery, unlimbering within two
hundred and fifty yards of the enemy at Palo Alto ;
but how much more daring was the charge of ('apt.
Weightman, when he unlimbered within fifty yards
of the redoubts of the enemy.

On the first day of March we took formal posses-
sion of the capital of Chihuahua in the name of our
government. We were ordered by Gen. Kearney
to report to Gen. Wool at this place : since our ar-
rival we hear he is at Saltillo, surrounded by the
enemy. Our present purpose is either to force our
way to him, or return by Bexar, as our term of ser-
vice expires on the last day of May next.

I have the honor to be your obedient servant,
A. W. DONIPHAN, Col. IstRgt. Mo. Vol.
Brig. R. Jonks, Adjt. Gen. U. S. A.

On the morning after the engagement
Major Clark, in reporting to Col. Doni-
phan the conduct of the troops under his
command, holds the following language:

Capt. Weightman charged at full gallop upon the
enemy's left, preceded by Capt. Reid and his com-
pany of horse, and after crossing a ravine some
hundred and fifty yards from the enemy, he un-
limbered the guns within fifty yards of the intrench-
ment, and opened a destructive fire of cannister into
his ranks, which was warmly returned, but without
effect. Capt. Weightman again advanced upon
the intrenchment, passing through it in the face of
the enemy, and within a few feet of the ditches, and
in the midst of cross-fires from three directions,
again opened his fire to the riuht and left with such
effect, that with the formidable charge of the cavalry
and dismounted men of your own regiment and
Lieut, colonel Mitchell's escort, the enemy were
driven from their breastworks on our right in great
confusion. At this time under a heavy cross-fire
from the battery of four six-pounders, under Lieuts.
Dom, Kribbin, and Labeaume, upon the enemy's
right, supported by Major Gilpin on the left, and
the wagon train escorted by two companies of in-
fantry under Captains E. F. Glasgow and Skillman
in the rear, Major Gilpin charged upon the enemy's
centre and forced him from his intr'enchments under
a heavy fire of artillery and small arms. At the
same time the fire of our own battery was opened
upon the enemy's extreme right, from which a con-
tinued fire had been kept up upon our line and the
wagon train. Two of the enemy's guns were now
soon dismounted on their right, that battery silenced
and (he enemy dislodged from the redoubt on the
Cerro Frigolis. Perceiving a body of lancers form-
ing, for the purpose of outflanking our left, and at-
tacking the merchant train under Capts. Glasgow
and Skillman, I again opened upon them a very
destructive tire of grape and spherical case shot,

which soon cleared the left of our line. The enemy
vacating his intrenchments anil deserting his guns,
was hotly pursued towards the mountains beyond
Cerro Friji>iis, and down Arroyo Seco la Sacramento
by both wings of the army under Lieut, colonel
Mitchell, Lieut, colonel Jackson and Major Gilpin,
and by Capt Weightman, with the section of how-
itzers. During this pursuit my officers repeatedly
opened their fires upon the retreating enemy with,
great effect. To cover this flight of the enemy's
forces from the intrenched camp, the heaviest of his
camion had been taken from the intrenchment to
Cerro Sacramento, and a heavy fire opened upon our
pursuing forces and the wagons following in the
rear. To silence this battery I had the honor to
anticipate your order to that eflect, by at once oc-
cupying the nearest of the enemy's intrench-
ments, 1225 yards distant, and notwithstanding
the elevated position of the Mexican battery, giv-
ing him a plunging fire into my intrenchment,
which was not defiladed, and the greater range
of his long nine-pounders, the first fire of our
guns dismounted one of his largest pieces, and the
fire was kept up with such briskness and pre-
cision of aim. that the battery was soon silenced and
the enemy seen precipitately retreating. The fire
was then continued upon the Rancho Sacramento,
and the enemy's ammunition and wagon train re-
treating upon the road to Chihuahua. By their
fire the house and several wagons were rendered un-
tenable and useless. By this time Lieut, colonel
Mitchell had scaled the hill, followed by the sec-
tion of howitzers under Capt. Weightman, and the
last position of the Mexican forces was taken pos-
session of by our troops; thus leaving the American
forces master of the field.

CHAPTER XIX.

Doniphan's proclamation — The American residents
— The keys to the Mint — Mexican morals — Chi-
huahua— Its attractions — Express to Gen. Wool
— The fourteen — Arrival at Saltillo — Visit to the
battle field of Buena Vista — Return of the Ex-
press.

Col. Doniphan, now having actual pos-
session of the city of Chihuahua, and vir-
tual possession of the State ; having quarter-
ed his soldiers in the public buildings near
the Plaza, and other houses vacated by the
families who fled at his approach ; having
stationed his artillery in a manner to com-
mand the streets and other avenues leading
into the square, for the perfect defence of
the capital ; having sent the Prefectoof the
city to the battle-field with a number of
Mexicans to bury their dead; and having
set the curate, Ortiz, and the other hostages
at liberty, issued the followingprnclamation
to the inhabitants of Chihuahua:—

DONIPHAN'S EXPEDITION.

119

" The commander of the North American forces
4n Chihuahua, informs the citizens of this State, that
he has taken military possession of this capital, and
has the satisfaction to assure them that complete
tranquillity exists therein.

He invites all the citizens to return to their houses
and continue their ordinary occupations, under the
security that their persons, religion and property
shall be respected.

He declares, likewise, in the name of his govern-
ment, that having taken possession of the capital, al-
ter conquering the forces of the Slate, he has equally
taken possession of the State.

He invites the citizens of all the towns and ran-
cfios to continue their traffic, to come to this capital
to buy and sell as formerly before the late occurren-
ces, under the assurance they shall in no manner he
molested or troubled, and as already said, their prop-
erty shall be respected ; for if the troops under my
command should stand in need of anything, a fair
price shall be given for the value thereof with the
utmost punctuality.

He likewise declares, that the American troop*
will punish with promptitude any excess that may
be committed, whether it be by the barbarous Indians
-or by any other individual.

Lastly, we assure all good citizens, that we carry
on war agiinst the armies alone, and not against in-
dividual citizens who are unarmed.

We, therefore, only exact, not that any Mexican
should assist us against his country, hut that in the
present war he remain neutral ; for it cannot be ex-
pected, in a contrary event, that we should respect
the rights of those who lake up arms against our lives."

Preceding the battle of Sacramento, the
American residents and merchants in Chi-
huahua, of whom there were about 30, re-
ceived ill-treatment from the Mexican pop-
ulace. Indignities and insults were offered
them. They were u.ostly kept in custody,
and not permitted to pass without the limits
of the city. They were tauntingly told
that when Col. Doniphan and his handful
of men arrived there, they would be hand-
cuffed and delivered over to the populace,
to be dealt with as their caprices should
suggest, and their humor prompt them.
They even exulied in anticipation of the
tortures and cruelties they meant to inflict
upon the "presumptuous, northern inva-
ders.'''' To this they often added the epi-
thets, " Texans, yankees, heretics and pi-
rates" When the action commenced the
cannonading was distinctly heard in Chi-
huahua. The tide of battle was known to
be raging, but the event was doubtful. —
When the first cannonading ceased it was
announced that the Americans were defeat-
ed— that victory had perched on the Mexi-
can flag. The resident Americans now-
lost all hope. The rabble triumphed, and
exulted over them. In a fit of immoderate
excitement, the greasers seized staves,

knives, stones, and whatever else chance
had thrown in their way, and threatened to
kill them without distinction. But hark!
the thunders of the battle are renewed. —
The merchants' hearts began to revive.
The cannon's roar, the vollies of musketry,
and the sharp-shooting yagers, are heard
until darkness envelopes the earth. At
length a courier, "frantic with despair,"
arrives in the city and exclaims., " Per de-
mos ! Perdemos .'" we are lost, defeated,
mined. Then the generals, the governor,
and the retreating host came, and in hot
haste passed on to Parral, and thence to
Durango, scarcely halting in the city to take
a little refreshment. The star of the north-
ern republic was in the ascendant, and in
the pride of their hearts the American resi-
dents shouted " victory and triumph." — .
Only one American, James MeGoffin, a
Ketitnckian and a naturalized Mexican, was
retained a prisoner, and sent to Durango.
The rest were liberated.

On the 3d of March, the funeral cere-
monies of Major Owens were performed
in the Ca holic church in Chihuahua, with
great pomp. The Mexican priests officia-
ted on the occasion. His corpse was
thence conveyed to the cemetery, and in-
terred with masonic and martial honors.
On the following day sergeant Kitkpatrick
died, and was buried with similar honors.
"Du/ce ef deconnn est pro pat rid mori."

The same day Lieutenant-colonel Mitch-
ell, accompanied by several officers and a
file of men, went into the public buildings
to take possession of such public, property
as might be found in the city, for the ben-
efit of the United States' treasury. When
he called on Mr. Potts, who claimed to be
acting English consul at Chihuahua, he
refused to give him the keys of the mint,
alledging "that he had a private claim upon
the mint, and did not intend to permit the
Americans to go into it." Hereupon great
excitement prevailed among the soldiers;
for upon the consul's refusing admittance
into so spacious a building, it was conjec-
tured that the Governor and a body of
troops might be concealed therein. About
five hundred soldiers ran to their arms and
made ready for the emergency. Captain
Weightman sent for his section of howit-
zers to be used as keys in entering the
building. When their muzzles were turn-
ed upon the doors, and the port-fires light-
ed, the consul, seeing no other alternative,
delivered up the keys.

120

CITY OF CHIHUAHUA.

It has been said, with much justice, tint
the Mexicai.s both in central an, I northern
Mexico, hive an unconquerable propensity
for amusement and gam din?. Their ihiev-
ing propensities are equally irrepressible
This remark is more especially intended
to apply to the lower clashes, among whom
there is but Little of either modestv, truth,
virtue, intelligence, honor, or honesty. —
They were frequently detected in stealing
mules, horses, and other property from the
American camp while in Chihuahua, and
from Jackson's camp at ihe Bull-pen* in
the suburbs of the city. No argument less
.potent than a teamster's wagon-whip was
sufficient to restrain them. They were
therefore often scourged for their offences,
and that sometimes publicly. This was
necessary even to the preserving of tolera-
ble order amongst them.

The people of central Mexico, however,
are upon an average much more enlighten-
ed, and possess a higher degree of moral
honesty than the inhabitants of the more
northein provinces, yet their complexion
and lan^u ige are very much the same. —
The Mexicans generally, both men and
women, are exce rdingly vivacious ; showy
and faeile, and at the same time shallow in
conversation; extremely fond of dress and
toys; hospitable when the humor prompts
them ; yet indolent and addicted to every
extreme of vicious indulgence ; cowardly,
and at the same time cruel ; serving rather
their appetites, than following (he admoni-
tions of conscience ; and possessing elas-
tic and accommodating moral principles.
Modest, chaste, virtuous, intelligent females
are rarely to be met with, y»t, notwith-
standing they are few, there are some such.
Many of the females of that country, are
gifted with sprightly minds, possess rare

*Thc Bull-pen ranks among the public buildings
of Ohihualiu i, is situated in the suburbs of the
city, is (milt after the manner of an amphheatre, and
is spjcioiH enough to contain five thousand people.
It is circular and is furnished with 'iers of seats ri-
sing one above the other, the top of the structure
being flat and sufficiently large to accommodate a
vast number of spectators. Here Mexican lancers
and gladiators engage in combat with the fiercest
wild bulls, go ided to madness and rendered frantic
by repeated thrusts of the lance, for the amusement
of the people. In sueh sport do the Mexican peo-
ple, of both sexes, delight. This institution is a
monstrous type of the moral sentiment of the Mex-
ican nation. If, indeed, the morals of the Mexicans
generally are ascribable to the established religion of
the country, it is then much to be. regretted that
euch a system ever swayed the minds of any people.

personal beauty, and most gentle and win-
ning grace of manners. Their lustrous,
dark, sparkling eyes, and tresses of glossy,
black hair, constitutes a fair share of their
charms.

Bathing is regarded, in Mexico, as one
of the choicest luxuries of fashionable life;
to which practice both sexes are much ad-
dicted. In Chihuahua there are many
bath-houses, and pools of beautiful water,
conveniently arranged for public accommo-
dation. These are constantly filled by the
young and gay of both sexes, promiscu-
ously splashing and swimming about, with
their long black hair spread out on the
water, without one thought of modesty.

The city of Chihuahua, and the capital
of the State, was built during the Spanish
viceroyaliy by the Spanish capitalists and
nabobs, who were allured thi her from the
south, by the rich mines of gold and silver
in die neighboring mountains. At present
it contains twenty-five thousand inhabi-
tants. The streets about the plaza are
neatly paved and curbed.

The ex erior of the plaza, next the
stree's, is paved beautifudy with white
porphyry, in such manner as to form a
promenade, furnished with numerous seats
carved out of solid masses of the same ma-
terial, having backs to rest against as a
sofa. This promenade was constructed
for evening gossip and recreation.

In the centre of the plaza mayor stands
a square structure of hewn marble, about
ten feet high, having four jets supplied by
a subterranean aqueduct, which discharges
an abundance of cool and delightful water
into an octagonal basin, about thirty feet
in d:ameter, and three in depth, construct-
ed also of hewn stone, laid in cement, and
bound firmly together by a joint-work of
lead, rendering the whole perfectly imper-
vious to water.

The houses in Chihuahua are chiefly
constructed of the adobe, cornered and front-
ed with hewn stone, having flat roofs, and
being two stories high. Many of them are
in good taste and furnished in a costly
manner. The catholic cathedral, a magni-
ficent structure, and other publ c works in
the city, are thus alluded to by Mr. Gregg,
upon whose de.-criptions it were needless
to attempt an improvement.

The most splendid edifice in Chihuahui is ihe
principal church, which is said to equal in architectu-
ral grandeur anything of the sort in the republic. —
The steeples, of which there is one at each front cor-

'

DONIPHAN'S EXPEDITION.

121

ner. rise over one hundred feet al>ovc the azotea. —
They are composed »f very fan.'ifully-carved col-
umns; and in appropriate niches of the frontispiece,
which is also an eluhorate piece of sculpture, are to
be seen a number of st.itues, as large as life, the
whole forming a complete representation of Christ
and the twelve Apostles. This church was built
about a ceniury ago, by contributions levied upon
the mines of Santa Eulalia, fifteen miles from the
city, which paid over a per centage on all the metal
extracted therefrom ; a medio being I. vied upon
each murco of eight ounces. In this way about one
million of dollars was raised and expended in some
thirty years, the time employed in the construction
of u.e building.

A little below the Plaza Mayor, stands the ruins
of San Francisco — the mere skeleton of another
grc.it church of hewn stone, which was commenced
by the Jesuits previous lo their expulsion in 1767.
lnit never finished. By the outlines still traceable
amid the desolation which reigns around, it would
appear that the plan of this edifice was conceived in
a spirit of still greater magnificence than the Parro-
qun which I have been describing. The abounding
architectural treasures that are mouldering and ready
to tumble to the e round, bear sufficient evidence that
the mind that had directed its progress, was at once
bold, vigor, us, and comprehensive.

This dilapidated building has since bern converted
into a sort of state prison, particularly for the incar-
ceration of distinguished prisoners. It was here that
the principals of the famous Texan Santa Fe expe-
dition were confined, when they passed through the
place, on their w iy to the city of Mexico. This
edifice has also acquired considerable celebrity as
liaviiijr received within its gloomy embraces several
of the most distinguished patriots who were taken
prisoners during the first infant struggles for Mexi-
can independence. Among these was the illustrious
ecclesiastic, Don Miguel Hidalgo, who made the
first dccl.iMtion at the village of Dolores, September
16, 1810. He was taken prisoner in March, 1811.
8>me ti. ne after his total defeat at Guadalaxara ; and
being brought to Chihuahua, he was shot on the 30th
of July following, in a little square back of the pris-
on, where a plain white monument of hewn stone
has been erected to his memory. It consists of an
octagon base of about twenty-live feet in diameter,
upon which rises a square unornamented pyramid,
to the height of about thirty feet. The monument
indeed, is not an unapt emblem of the purity and
simplicity of the curate's character.

Among the few remarkable objects which attract
the alt -lit ion of the traveler, is a row of columns
6up|K>rtiug a large number of stupendous arches,
which may be seen from the heights, long before ap-
proaching the city frorfl the north. This is an aque-
duct oi considerable magnitude, which conveys water
from th little river of Chihuahua, to an eminence
above the town, whence it is passed through a suc-
cession of pipes to the main public square, where it
empties itself into a large stone cistern, and by this
mt-thod the city is supplied with water. This, and
other public works to be met with in Chihuahua,
and in the southern cities, are glorious remnants of
the prosperous limes of the Spanish empire.

The city is supplied vt ith wood and char-
coal, brought in fmm the distant mountains
on mules and asses. The wood is lashed

on the backs of these docile animals by-
means of raw-hide thongs, while the char-
coal is put up into sacks, and secured in
like manner. One of these Mexican arrie-
ros, or wood-men, will often enter the city
with an atajo of several hundred of these
beasts, each burdened with its cargo of fuel.

Mexican Woodman.

On the 7th, Colonel Doniphan addressed
the following letter to Major Kyland, of
Lexington, Missouri:

Dkak Major: — How often have I again and
again determined to send you my hearty curses of
every thing Mexican? but, then I knew that you
had seen the sterile and miserable country, and its
description would be, of course, no novelty to you.
To give you, however, a brief outline of our move-
ments, I have to say, that we have marched to Santa
Fe, by Bent's Fort ; thence through the country
of the Navajo Indians to the waters of the Pacific
ocean; down the St. Juan river, the Rio Colorado
and the Gila, back again to the Rio del Norte; across
the Jornada del Muerto to Brazito, where we fought
the battle of which you have doubtless seen the ac-
count ; thence to the town of El Paso del Norte,
which was taken by lis; thence across two other
Jornadas, and fought the battle of the Sacramento,
and have sent you herewith, a copy of my official
report of the same. We are now in the beautiful
cilv of Chihuahua, and myself in the palace of Gov-
ernor Till AS.

My orders are to report to Gen. Wool ; but 1 now
learn, that instead of taking the city of Chihuahua,
he is shut up at Saltillo, by Santa Anna. Our po-
sition will be ticklish, if Santa Anna should compel
Taylor and Wool even to fall back. All Durango,
Zacatecas and Chihuahua will be down upon my
little armv. We are out of the reach of help, and
it would be as unsafe to go backward as forward. —
High spirits and a bold front, is perhaps the best
and the safest policy. My men are rough, ragged,
and read v. having one more of the R's than Ge.ieral
Taylor himself We have been in service nine months,
and my men, after marching two thousand miles,
over mountains and desert?, have not received one
dollar of their pay, yet they stand it without mur-
muring. Half rations, hard marches, and no clothes!
but they are still game to the last, and curse and
praise their country by turns, but fight for her all
the time.

No troops could have behaved more gallantly than

122

DONIPHAN'S EXPEDITION.

ours in the battle of the Sacramento. When we
approached the enemy, their numl>ers anil position
would have deterred any troops, less brave and de-
termined, from the attack ; but as I rode from rank
to rank, I could see nothing but the stern resolve to
conquer or die — there was no trepidation, and no
pale faces. I cannot discriminate between compa-
nies or individuals; all have done their duty, and
done it nobly.

On the 8th, Dr. Connelly, an American
merchant resident in Chihuahua, \vas sent
by Col. Doniplianto Parral, to hold an in-
terview with Governor Trias, to offer him
conditions of peace, and invite him back to
the capital. The governor, however, re-
fused to return; but appointed three com-
missioners to confer with Col. Doniphan,
or with such commissioners as he might
designate, in regard to concluding an hono-
rable peace. Col. Doniphan's desire was
to enter into treaty stipulations with the
authorities of Chihuahua, whereby the
American merchants, after the payment of
legal duties, might be suffered to remain in
security, and sell their merchandize, and
the State be bound to remain neutral du-
ring the continuance of the war. After
much delay, all negotiation was suspended
between the parties, without coming to any
definite agreement on the subject.

On the 14th, Major Campbell, and For-
sythe, with thirty-eight men, left Chihua-
hua, with the view of returning to the
United States by way of the Presidio del
Rio Grande, and thence across the plains
to fort Towson on Red River. Without
meeting with any very serious opposition
from the Indians, or other cause, this par-
ty reached the frontiers of Arkansas in
safety, where, separating, they returned to
their respective homes.

On the 18th the American troops at
Chihuahua received intelligence, through
the Mexican papers and by Mexican ru-
mor, of the great battle of Buena Vista or
Angostura. The Mexicans represented
the issue of the battle as being entirety
favorable to themselves, but taking it for
granted the American arms were victorious,
Col. Doniphan ordered a salute to be fired
in honor of Generals Taylor and Wool,
and the brave troops under their command.

Colonel Doniphan had been ordered by
General Kearney to report to Brigadier-
general Wool at Chihuahua. Instead of
finding General Wool in possession of that
capital as anticipated, he now had infor-
mation that both he and General Taylor
were shut up at Srltillo, and hotly belea-

guered by Santa Anna, with an over-
whelming force. Notwithstand ng this
strait of affairs, Col. Doniphan felt it his
duty to report to Gen. Wool, wherever he
might be found, and afford him whatever
succor might be in his power. Therefore
on the 2Uth he dispatched an exptess to
Saltillo bearing communications to Gen.
Woo!. Besides a copy of his official re-
port of the battle of Sacramento, was the
following dispatch :

Head Quarters of the Army in Chihuihtia,')
City of Chihuahua, March 20, 1847. 5
Sin: The forces under my command area portion
of the Missouri volunteers, called into service for the
purpose of invading New Mexico, under the com-
ii. and of Llrigad,er-gcneral (then colonel) Kearney.
After the conquest of New Mexico, and before Gen-
eral Kearney's departure for California, information
was received that another regiment and an extra
battalion of Missouri volunteers would follow us to
Santa Ye. The services of so large a force being
wholly unneccessary in that State, I prevailed on
General Kearney to order my regiment to report to
you at this city. The order was given on the 23d
of September, 1846, but after the general had ar-
rived at La Joya, in the southern part of the State,
he issued an order requiring my regiment to make a
campaign into the country inhabited by the Navajo
Indians, lying between the waters of the Rio del
Norte, and the Rio Colorado of the west. This
campaign detained me until the 14th of December,
before our return to the Del Norte. We immediate-
ly commenced our march for El Paso del Norte
with about eight hundred riflemen. All communi-
cation between Chihuahua and New Mexico was
entirely prevented. On the 25th of December,
1846, my van-guard was attacked at Brazito by the
Mexican force from this State ; our force was about
four hundred and fifty, and the force of the enemy,
eleven hundred ; the engagement lasted about forty
minutes, when the enemy fled, leaving sixty three
killed and since dead, one hundred and fifty woun-
ded, and one howitzer, the only piece of artillery in
the engagement on either side. On the 27th we
entered El Paso without further opposition ; from
the prisoners and others I learned that you had not
in irehed upon this State. I then determined to or-
der a battery and one hundred artillerists from New
Mexico. They arrived in El Paso about the 5th of
February, when we took up the line of march for
this place. A copy of my official report of the bat-
tle of Sacramento, enclosed to you, will show you
all our subsequent movements up to our taking mili-
t iry possession of this capital. The day of my ar-
rival, I had determined to send an express to you
forthwith ; but the whole intermediate country was
in the hands of the enemy, and we were cut off, and
had been for many months, from all information re-
specting the American Army. Mexican reports are
never to be fully credited ; yet, from all we could
learn, we did not doubt that you would be forced by
overwhelming numbers to abandon Saltillo, and of
course we would send no express under such circum-
stances. On yesterday we received the first even
tolerably reliable information, that a battle had been
fought near Saltillo between the American and

-■rfSJSfc*/.-

REPORT TO GENERAL WOOL.

123

Mexican forces, and that Santa Anna had probably
fallen back on San Louis de Potosi.

My position here is exceedingly embarrassing.
In the tirst place, most of the men under my com-
mand have been in service since the 1st of June,
have never received one cent of pay. Their marches
have heen hard, especially in the IVavajo country,
and no forage ; so that they are literally without hor-
ses, clothes, or money, having nothing hut arms and
a disposition to use them. They are all volunteers,
officers and men, and although ready for any hard-
ships or danger, are wholly unfit to garrison a town
or city. '■ It is confusion worse confounded." Hav-
ing performed a march of more than two thousand
miles, and their term of service rapidly expiring,
they are restless to join the army under your com-
mand. Still we cannot leave this point safely for
some days — the American merchants here oppose it
violently, and have several hundred thousand dollars
at stake. They have sent tne a memorial, and -my
determination has been made known to them. A
copy of both they will send you. Of one thing it
is necessary to inform you : the merchants admit
that their goods could not be sold here in five years ;
if they go south they will be as near the markets of
Durango and Zacatecas as they now are. I am
anxious and willing to protect, the merchants as far
as practicable; but I protest against remaining here
as a mere wagon-guard, to garrison a city with troops
wholly unfitted for it, and who will soon be wholly
ruined by improper indulgences. Having been origi-
nally ordered to this point, you know the wishes of
the Government in relation to it, aixl of course your
orders will be promptly and cheerfully obeyed. I
fear there is ample use for us with you, and we
would greatly prefer joining you before our term of
service expires.

All information relative to my previous operations,
present condition, &c, will he given you by Mr. J.
Collins, the bearer of dispatches. He is a highly
honorable gentleman, and was an amateur soldier at
Sacramento. Very respectfully your obedient ser-
vant, A. W. DONIPHAN,
Brig. Gex. Wool, U. S. A. Col. 1st Reg. Mo. Cav.

The following letters, written by the
author, to a friend in Missouri, will show
the progress and adventures of the express-
party, from the time of their leaving; Chi-
huahua, on the 20th of March, until their
return, on the 23d of April.

Head Qc.artetcs, Amrr of Occupatsox,
SultJllo, April 4th, 1847.
Mr. Miller : It has been just one month since
I wrote you from the city of Chihuahua. I am now
in Saltillo, the capital of the State of Coahuilia —
the camp of Generals Taylor and Wool, six hun-
dred and seventy-five miles from Col. Doniphan's
Army. Briefly and without embellishment, I will
relate the story of our adventures before arriving
here. The important work of opening a communi-
cation between the Army of the West, now in Chi-
huahua, and the Army of Occupation in and near
Saltillo, was entrusted to the hands of the following
fourteen men, viz: J. I,. Collins, interpreter and
bearer of dispatches, T. Bradford, T. H. Massie, T.
Harrison, J. Sanderson, I. Walker, R. D. Walker,
S. Asbury, J. Andrews, G. Brown, J. Lewis, J.
Moatray, R. W. Fleming, and myself, escort. There

never was a more dangerous and arduous undertak-
ing accomplished with better success by the same
numher of men. Every foot of the route led through
the enemy's country and was attended with immi-
nent peril. We left Chihuahua on the 20th of
March, and having performed almost the entire
march by night, over stupendous mountains clad
with horrible carfus and the maguty, and through
vallies of mezquite, we arrived here safely on the 2d
of April. We may very properly be styled the
night RITieus of Mkxico. Wc traveled about
fifty miles per day by the following route, from Chi-
huahua to the rancho Bachimbo, thence to San
Pablo, thence to Soucillo on the main branch of the
river Conchos ; here we attempted to diverge to the
left, and cross the arid plains by a trav r*ia (by-path,)
leading to the city of Monclova, but having traveled
two days and nights in the deserts and mountains,
without one drop of water, and having used our ut-
most exertions to find the noted watering places,
" Coulero''' and " Agua Chele'' unsuccessfully, we
were compelled to return to the river Conchos at
Soucil o, to avoid perishing of thirst, on the arid
plains. Just before returning to the Concfios we
thought we would make one more effort to discover
water. Messrs. Collins, Massie, Bradford, and my-
self, ascended a high mountain, and as we thought,
beheld a lake of water some five or six miles dis-
tant. We were confident we could see the banks
of the lake and the green verdure circling the water's
edge as well as the waves rolling before the gentle
wind. With revived hearts we set out for the re-
freshing element. We traveled and traveled, but
the lake receded. At length we came upon a glassy
sand beach, (the bed of a dry lake,) and the water,
or mirage apj>eared behind and around us ; we were
pursuing a phantom. We were perishing with in-
ternal heat and thirst. It was growing dark, and there
was no prospect of obtaining water without return-
ing to the river Conchos. Accordingly we turned
about and started for the river, and having rode hard
all night and until sunrise next morning we arrived
at the transparent, cool, refreshing stream. Great
God ! what a blessing to man hast thou made this
one element, and how poorly does he appreciate it
until he is cast off upon the desert !

We passed from Soucillo to La Cruz, thence to
Santa Rosalia on the Rio Florida. This town con-
tains about five thousand inhabitants. We passed
rancho Enramida, rancho Blanco, and Guajuquilla.
Three commissioners were sent out to inquire into
our business; but having told them we intended to
pass peaceably through the country, they permitted
us to pass unmolested. This region of the country
is majestically barren — there is a grandeur in the very
desolation around you. The eternal mountains
with the cactus bristling on their sides shut out the
horizon, the rising and setting sun, and lift their
bald rocky summits high in the azure of heaven. —
Becoming satisfied that every effort would be made
to rob us of our papers and send us as prisoners to
Durango, we halted near a gorge in the mountains,
and examined and burnt all the letters of our frirnds
and every other paper and letter of introduction,
which we had, except Col. Doniphan's official com-
munications to Gen. Wool, and these we sewed up
in the pad of one of our saddles. This we did, that
nothing might be found in our possession that would
betray us as express men, in the event we should
fall into the hands of the enemy, which we had

124

DONIPHAN'S EXPEDITION.

great reason to apprehend. Wp passed the city of
JHalpiuii. in Duran-zo. aiiout midnight. On the 29ih
we b h-ki a cloud of dust l>efore u-. and saw Aari-us
companies of uni:nals. which l.*>ked very much like
companies of cavalry. vVe al fii>t supposed it was
Gtn. Martinez, of Durango, returning to Malpimi
after tl c bailie of Salullo. Of course we felt the
neccssitv of avoiding them, and accordingly directed
our course towards the mountains. At length we
weae ahle to discover that, instead of bring cavalry,
it was sevor.il large atajns of pack-mules on their
w*y fro n M ' iihuahua, with peloncillo

(cake sug-ar) for sale. About sundown we arrived
at San > - in the Bio Nazas, .

ped to prepare a little coffi-e. Don Ignacio Jirmenez,
a wealthy and influential citizen of the place, col-
lected about one hundred men together, and notified
us that he had orders from the authorities of Du-
rango to s' op us and make us prisoners. Collins
eavs "well, what are you going to do about it," —
Jirmeni'z replies - I shall put the order into execu-
tion.'" Co'.Sins — •• [ ain going, and you can use your
pleasure alioul stopping us.*' Jirmenez — "Have
you and your nvn passports." Collins — "Yrf.s:-.
we have.*' Jirmenpz — '• l.< t me see them." Col-
lins, holding iiis rifle in one hand and revolver in
the other — -These are our i»assports. sir, and we
think they are sufficient." This ended the parley.
We buckled on our pistols and bowie-knives, shoul-
dered our rifles, and left sans ceremonie. V.
eled all night and all nest day until sunset, and
having arrived near the base of a hi?h mountain in
the State of Coahuila. we stopped again to take some
refreshment, and graze our animals a moment —
While taking our coffee this same Ignacio Jirmenez
surroundi'd us. with a band of seventy-five well
armed men, ami no douhtwith the view of first mur-
dering and then plundering us. We quickly formed
a line of Ui tie, heavily charged our holsters, revol-
vers ami rifles, and through our interpreter gave him
the Spartan reply : -Here ice are, if you want u*
come and take m!'' After curveting and maneii-
Tering around us near hn hour, during whi^h
time we sained the base of the mountain, he con-
cluded that we were a stubborn set to deal with, and
accordi . le prudent plan of withdrawing

his forces There was but one sentiment in our
little ban), and dial was to fight until the
expired. About midnight we arrived at El Poso,
where we purchased c.'ni for our animals and took
a little res?, as we had traveled night and day since
we left Chihuahua.

Ml further difheultv, except the failure of
some of our animals, we arrived al the large and l«au-
tiful hacienda of Don Vanuel Ybarro, near the city of
Parras. Manuel was educated in Bardstown. Ken-
'. - . - to ihe Americans, and received us

kindly. He gave us all the information v. -
ab>ut the American troops and the battle of Buena

After showing us his fine houses, gardens
with roses richly blooming, and premises get
he ga-.e us comfortable quarters during the night,
a fresh supply of mules, and a guide through the
mountains, in order to e.V|iedi;e our march to Gen.
Wool's c imp Vbarro speaks good English, is a
foil Amerii-nii in feeling, and merits our highest ap-
his disinterested, kind treatment. —
ut the occurrence of any \ery remarkable in-
cident w ■ passed, hv a very rocky, rugged, moun-
tainous Iraversia. the haciendas. Castanuella and the
Florida, and arrived in SallilJo at sunset on the 2d

of April. Our dispatches were forthwith delivered
to Gen. Wool, bui as Taylor, who has just gone to
Monterey, is in com- ranch of the army,

the dispatches were 9ent to him. early oa the morn-
ing of the 3d April. Respectful'v.

JOHNT. HUGHES.

Sai/tilio, April 5th, 1847.
Mh. Mili/eb : This day Mr. Coliins and myself
accompanied • ngineer, roue

over the great battle-field of Bckxa Vista, where
Gen. Tax lor with five thousand men. mostly volun-
teers, measured his strength with Gen. Santa Anna
at the head or" t»ei.ty-two thousand of the best
troops Mexico ever sent into the field. Gen. Tav.
lor, for having defeated and almost annihilated the
flower of the Mexican army with so slender a force,
deserves the gratitude of the American people- Nor
do the brave men who fought with him, deserve less.
An awful melancholy creeps over the soul, and
deeply stirs the feelings, and opens the fountains of
sympathy, as you ] as .round covered with

the mutilated dead, and dyed with the blood of friend
and foe. As Santa Anna says in hie offivial report,
" The ground is" truly " strewed »kh rue dead, and

i the blood has flowed in torrents." We stood one
moment on the spot where Col. Yell of Arkansas
yielded up his life for his country, and then admir-
ingly turned to view the ground stall crimsoned h?
the blood of Col. Hardin of Illinois, and Cok.
MeKec and Ciay of Kentucky. The blood of the

. gallant dead was still red on the rocks around us. —
Here the last prayer, and the last tlirobbings of
■ noble heart were bushed in death to I .
The engineer pointed us to the place where the

| Mexican general had marshaled his hosts with a
r forest of glittering steel. The cos
pings of the officers and the bright bayonets of the
men. glistened in the sheen of the sun. He then
showed us where Washington's, Bragg's, Sher-
man's.and O'Brien'sbatteries, with thundering roar,

i mowed down the enemy's advancing columns; and

where the chivalrous Kentuckians. the gallant Mis-

ss „;ns. the indomitable Iliinoisans, the much

abused Indianians, and other equal., i mil wjmi imi

! volunteer troops, dashed into the Mexican lines,
opening wide breaches and spreading fearful havoc

i amongst their sue; ■ess Ivancing squadrons.

i The half-wasted frames of the Mexican sole

i lay profusely scattered over the plateau where the

j armies of the two republics disputed for supremacy.
we returned to Gen. Wool's tent from the.
fit i ;: his glorious Etrife. He converseJ .
and pleasantly t emmuiiicaled to us important infor-
mition resj»ecting hi* great battle. He read to us
his official account of the action ; aft-
made this flattering statement in relation to the con-
duct of the '•'Army of the West;" — -'Missouri
has acquitted herself most gloriously. Col. Doni-
phan has fought the most fortunate bailie, and
gained the most brilliant victory, which has been
achieved during the war. I have every confidence
in the bravery arid gallantry of the troops under his
command. Would to God I hid them and their
artillery here! Santa Anna might then return Lo
Bucna Yisia and welcome." Respectfully,

JOHN T. HUGHES.

Ifa. Mi u n

CRtrrrjurrA. April SSih, !SiT.
On the 9th o: i'aylorV

LETTER OF J. T. HUGHES.

125

dispatches to Colonel Doniphan, arrived at Saltillo
by the hands of Major Howard. Col. Doniphan is
ordered to march with his column forthwith to Sal-
tillo, and return to the United States by way of Mat-
amoras and the Gulf. For the safe conveyance of
the orders, and the protection of the express-men,
Gen. Wool sent Cant. Pike of the Arkansas cav-
alry with twenty-six men to act as an escort or con-
voy. We were also accompanied by Mr. Gregg,
author of " Commerce on the Prairies." having
along a set of astronomical instruments, for taking
the latitude and longitude of places. Our party
being now increased to forty-two men, and provided
with a fresh supply of animals, we left Saltiilo on
the 9th, and on the same day arrived at Florida a
small town, about forty miles distant. From theme
we passed thirtv-five miles to Castanuella, where we
met with a very hospitable Irish lady who bad mar-
ried a Mexican. Here also we saw a man singularly
deformed. His head and body were of the ordinary
size for a man ; hut his arms and legs were only
about eighteen inches long. His appearance, when
he made an attempt to walk, was very singular, for
he could scarcely get along, except where the ground
was quite leve1. When mounted on horseback his
appearance was still more strange. This man had
a wife and children. From thence, pas-ing through
the mountains, we came to the princely estate of
Don Manuel Ybarro, and again enjoyed his kind
hospitalities, and received numerous instances of his
disinterested marked friendship, for which our cor-
dial thanks and grateful acknowledgments are due.
Thence in three days we traveled about one hundred
and ten miles, and came to Alimeto. having passed
El Poso. San Nicolas, and San Lorenzo. Here we
encamped in the plaza, and took possession of two
small cannon. This place contains about fifteen
hundred inhabitants, and is situated in the valley of
the Rio Nazas. The next day we traveled about
forty miles, and came to the canon in the mountains
of Mapimi. where we staid for the night This day
it rained copiously. While at this place commis-
sioners came out from Mapimi to inquire if our in-
tentions were pacific; that otherwise we could not
be permitted to pass. Captain Pike replied to them:
— '• We intend to molest nothing. It is the custom
of the Americans to respect life and the rights of
property. At all hazards, however, we intend to
pass on our way." The next morning as we ap-
proached Mapimi. two of the deputies came out and
entreated Capt. Pike not to pass through the town.
Not knowing what forces might be concealed in the
place, (for troops hid recently been stationed there,)
he took tlr.ir counsel. We therefore proceeded on
our way. and tint night arrived at Jarilito, a deserted
town, after a march of thirty-seven miles. We were
now scant of provisions. The following morning
we proceeded about nine miles to the Suit Spring,
where finding a drove of wild Mexican cattle, we
pounced in amongst them with our rifles, and soon
had enough of beef to supply a small army. After
a few hours rest and a little refreshment we started
for the Ri> Cerrn Gordo, a distance of thirty miles,
where we arrived at sunset.

On the morning of the lSfh, after a progress of
ten miles we came to the Green Springs, near a
canon in the mountains, which the Mexicans digni-
fy with the title of Santa Bernada. Near this
stands a deserted rancho. Having nooned and rega-
led ourselves a little under the shade of the Alamos,

we launched out upon the desert or Jornada, seventy-
five miles without water. This desert extends to
Guajuquilla from Santa Bernada. Having completed
about forty-five miles this day. we encamped for the
Right on (he plain, without wood or water. The
next day. having traveled about twenty-five miles,
and by this time being very thirsty, v\e overhauled a
train of wagons belonging to one Minos, a Mexican,
some of which contained oranges and pcloncillo
from Zacateras, designed for the markets of Parral
and Chihuahua. Eagerly we purchased a supply
of oranges, and sucked the luscious juice from that
delicious fruit. Now revived and reinvigoruted, we
pressed forward to Guajuquilla, a town on the Rio
Florida, containing four thousand inhabitants, where
we quartered in a spacious corral, well adapted for
defence, and stationed out a night guard. These
people were not f.iendly, but they durst not at-
tack us through fear. Here we found several
Americans, who had met with a singularly hard fate.
They gave me this recital of their misfortunes: —
"Twenty-one of us were in the employ of Speyers
and Amijo, who traveled under British passports.
They promised us protection, but upon our arrival
at Chihuahua we were all made prisoners, and un-
der strict guards conducted in the direction of the
city of Mexico. On arriving at the little town of
Zarcas we effected our escape by night, and attempt-
ed to penetrate into Texas by way of Mapimi, La-
gunadel Tagualiia, and thence to the Kio Grande.
Having traveled for fourteen days in the ariil deserts
between Mapimi and the Bio Giande, mostly with-
out water or provision, eleven of our number per-
ished miserably of thirst and fatigue, and the other
ten, changing their course and subsisting upon the
flesh of the only remaining horse we had, finally
succeeded in reaching Guajuquilla." We took one
of the survivors to Chihuahua; the others remained,
having no means of traveling.

Thence passing Enramada, Santa Rosalia, and
San Pab o, we arrived at Bachimbo, thirty-six miles
from Chihuahua, on the 22d, and making an early
start the next morning, we hastened forward to re-
join our companions in the capital. When we had
approached within about five miles of the city, wo
beheld at a distance a great cloud of dust rising in
front of us We could not at first conceive the
purport of all this. In a few moments, however, a
body of horsemen were seen in the distance, making
towards us with great haste. We were now im-
pressed with the belief that it was either a body of
Mexican guerrilleros endeavoring to cut us off from
any communication with the army, or Colonel
Doniphan's picket guard, who, mistaking us for
a party of Mexicans, had dashed out in the hopes of
a skirmish. At first Captain Pike halted the little
column to make an observation. But we were soon
very pleasantly undeceived ; for, the body of horse-
men turned out to be a company of our friends, who
hearing of our approach, had come to greet us and
offer us a new relay of horses. Colonel Doniphan
had thrice been solemnly assured that the express
party were all either k'lled or made prisoners and
sent to Durango to undergo the most cruel tortures,
and had accordingly issued orders to his troops to
evacuate the capital on the 2olh. and return to the
United States by way of the Presidio del Bio Giande
and San Antonio in Texas. We now entered
Chihuahua amidst the deafening peals of the great
church belU, the firing of artillery, and the oordial

12G

DONIPHAN'S EXPEDITION.

welcomes and heartfelt congratulations of friends,
who pressed around to shake us hy the hands and
inquire wliat were the ordkhb from (Jenerals Tay-
lor and Wool. Colonel Doniphan, having unsealed
the dispatches, announced to his soldie s that he

was required TO MARCH FORTHWITH TO S.iLTILLO,

wherv: tie would receive further orders.

Respectfully, JOHN T. HUGHES.

CHAPTER XX.

Departure of the Army forSaltillo — Mexican girls
— The Merchants — Arrival at Santa Rosalia —
Mitchell's Advance — Guajuquilla — The Jorna-
da — Palayo and Mapinii — Death of Lieutenant
Ja-kson — San Sebastian and San Lorenzo —
Mrs. IvIcCioffin — Battle of El Poso — Don Man-
uel Ybarro — Parras — Review of the Army hy
Gen. Wool — Reception by Gen. Taylor.

It was Col. Doniphan's intention, when
he dispatched the express to Saltillo, to
move his forces to San Pablo, in ihe val-
ley of the Conchos, or to Santa Rosalia,
according as he might find forage, leaving
only sticli a garrison in Chihuahua as
would be sufficient to afford protection to
the American merchants.

Conformably to this design, on the 5th
of April, the 2nd battalion, under Major
Gilpin, and the battalion of artillery, under
Major Clark, (which now consisted of
two companies commanded by Weight-
man an:! Hudson, the latter having charge
of the Mexican pieces,) were ordered to
proceed to San Pablo. The 1st battalion,
under Lieutenant-colonel Jackson, was
soon to succeed them. On the 9th, how-
ever, Col. Doniphan, while at San Pablo,
received a communication from Hicks, an
American at Parral, advising him that a
strong Mexican force was on the march
from Durango to Chihuahua, to recover
the capital, and seize the goods of the
American merchants. Col. Doniphan, not
suspecting but such a project was in con-
tempi ition, from the rumors and slatements
which had come to him, determined to
return and hold possession of the capital,
until he should hear from Gen. Wool.
Jackson's battalion did not leave the city.

Meanwhile the American merchants had
established themselves on the most active
and busy streets of the city, and were
using every exertion to effect sales of their
immense merchandize; for, as yet, it was
uncertain what the orders of Gen. Wool

to Col. Doniphan would be, and to what
extent their interests might be affected.
Many of them had embarked largely in
the trade, and it was essential to dispose
of their goods mainly before the army,
(which for months had act"d as a guard
and convoy to their trains,) should receive
orders to evacuate the place. Business
soon became moderately brisk, and the
majority of them were successful in dis-
posing of their heavy stocks. The aggre-
gate amount of the importation for the
year, could not have been less than one

MILLION AND A HALF OF DOLLARS, at the

Chihuahua prices.

" For fifiy-nine days," observes an in-
telligent volunteer, " we held full and un-
disturbed possession of the city, keeping
up strict discipline with a constant guard,
consisting of a camp and picket guard and
a patrol during the whole night, visiting
every part of the city. Various rumors
were afloat of the intended march of the
enemy, to attack us, and sometimes report
said, that several thousands were on the
road ; but it is certain, that if we had re-
mained in the place until this day, they
never would have approached it, with any
force, less than eight or ten thousand ; and,
having the advantage of the houses and
walls, a less number never could have
driven us from the city. The rights of
the citizens there, as in every other place,
were duly respected ; and their conduct
since our departure up to the latest accounts
shows, that this treatment was not lost
upon them ; for several traders who re-
mained there, have been well treated and
their rights duly regarded."

Every preparation having been com-
pleted by the indefatigable exertions of the
quartermaster, and officers of subsistence,
which was necessary for the long and
arduous march to Saltillo, a distance of
675 miles through an arid and desolate
country, the battalion of artillery com-
menced the march on the 25th of April,
and was succeeded on the fallowing day
by the first battalion. These were to
await the rear, and the merchant and bag-
gage trains, at Santa Rosalia, one ln.ndred
and twenty miles from Chihuahua.

On the morning of the 28th, a scene of
the most busy and animating nature ensued.
The Americans were actively engaged in
hastening preparations for their departure.
The Mexicans, with their serapes thrown
around them, were standing at the corners

MARCH FOR SALTILLO.

127

of the streets in groups, speculating- as to
the future. The long- trains of baggage
and provision wagons were stretching out
towards the south. Part, of the merchant
trains were moving off in the direction of
New Mexico, taking with them liitle, how-
ever, except their specie, or bullion. The
2nd battalion, with colors thrown to the
breeze, was anxiously awaiting the order
to march.

Certain of the fair Mexican girls, who
had conceived an unconquerable attach-
ment for some favorite paramour of the
Anglo-Saxon race, with "blue eyes and fair
hair," dressed in the habit of Mexican
youths, were gaily dashing through the
streets on their curvetting steeds. They
accompanied their lovers on the march to
Saltilh), and bivouacked with them on the
deserts.

About ten o'clock, Col. Doniphan, hav-
ing delivered over to the city authorities
the Mexican prisoners, captured at Sacra-
mento, to be disposed of by them as deem-
ed advisable for the public good, quietly
evacuated the capital, leaving the govern-
ment in the hands of its former rulers. —
About ten American merchants remained,
and trusted their lives to the " magnani-
mous Mexican people." These were
chiefly such men as had great knowledge
- of the Mexican customs and language, and
had tiken the oath of allegiance to that
government. The magnifi ent, architectu-
ral beauty of the city was left wholly unim-
paired, and the property of the citizens
uninjured.

Two days after Col. Doniphan's depar-
ture from Chihuahua, the American mer-
chants, who remained, entered into a treaty
stipulation with the city authorities, where-
by they agreed to pay the legal rates of
duty upon their entire importation of goods,
both sold and unsold. They were to be
amply protected in their rights and liberty.
The conditions of this treaty have been
fully complied with by the Mexicans, ex-
cept in one single instance. On the 23d
of June, a band of ruffians violently enter-
ed the store-room of James Aull, of
Lexington, (Mo.), and having brutally as-
sassinated him, plundered the house of five
thousand dollars. The assassins were sub-
sequently apprehended, and thrown into
prison, but we have not learned that they
received the punishment due to their crimes.
The other company of merchants returned
to Santa Fe by way of Coralitus, and Ojo

Vacca, leaving El Paso to the east. —
Thence they returned to Independence,
where they arrived in the month of July.

Col. Doniphan, by unparalleled marches,
overtook the advance at Santa Rosalh, on
the 1st of May, having in four days pass-
ed B.ichimbo, Santa Cruz, Soucillo, and
completed one hundred and twenty miles.
Santa Rosalia contains about five thousand
inhabitants, and is situated at the junction
of the Conchos and Florida rivers. Here
the Mexican forces under General Heridia
had thrown up a line of fortifications, en-
tirely surrounding the city, except where
the rivers and the bluffs were impassable,
strengthened by an almost impregnable
fortress. On the outside of the embank-
ments were inirenchments, impassable by
cavalry. These embankments were also
strengthened by numerous bastions, in
which cannon were to be employed.

Some assert that these fori inYations were
thrown up to defend the place against die
approach of Gen. Wool, who was expected
to paes that way on his march upon Chi-
huahua. Others aver that it was the in-
tention of the Mexicans, if defeated at
Sacramento, to remove the public archives,
and all their munitions of war, into this
strong hold, and there make a desperate
stand: but that losing all their cannon and
means of defence in the action of the 28th,
they abandoned their purpose. It is true,
however, that extensive preparations had
been made to defend the city against an
invading army.

On the 2nd Lieutenant-colonel -Mitchell,
a detachment of twenty-six men, under
Capt. Pike, of the Arkansas cava'ry, and
seventy men, under Capt. Reid, left the
main body of the army, and proceeded in
advance to Parras, a distance of near five
hundred miles. The movements of the
main column, however, were so rapid that
the pioneer parly, in case of any sudden
emergency, could have fallen back upon it
for support. The object of this reconnoi-
tering party was to obtain the earliest in-
formation of either a covert or open ene-
my, who might meditate an attack upon
the trains, or seize upon some favorable
moment to surprise the army ; and also to
procure at Parras such supplies as might
he necessary fur the use of the men and
animals.

After a hasty march of sixty miles in
two days we came to Guajuquilla, on the
Rio Florida, containing an industrious and

528

DONIPHAN'S EXPEDITION.

agricultural population, where we obtained
an abundance of forage. Here, also, the
soldiers purchased chickens, pigs, cheese,
eggs, bread, wine, and a variety of ve-
getables.

At this place there are a great number
of beautiful canals, which convey the most
lovely and delightful streams of water
through the whole town and neighboring
fields and gardens. This valley, if pro-
perly cultivated, would yield a support
for a dense population. The soil is fertile,
and the nature of the ground is such that
it is susceptible of complete irrigation.

Early the next day the commander mo-
ved his forces up the river about six miles,
to the Hacienda Dolores. Here he al-
lowed them a short respite, ordered them
to prepare provisions, and fill their canteens
with water, before commencing the march
over the desert, upon which they were
* now to enter. This desert is seventy-five
miles over, extending to the Santa Bernada
spring, and the road is terrible by reason
of the dust. The troops having taken a
few hours lest, and a little refreshment,
launched out in long files upon the Jorna-
da, followed by all the baggage, provision,
and merchant trains, a great cloud of dust
hanging heavily and gloomily along the
line. of march.

After sunset a sullen, lowering cloud
arose in the south-west, heavily charged
with electric fluid, and with frequent flash-
es of lightning, and hoarse, distant thun-
der, swept majestically over the rocky
summits' of the detached mountains, which
everywhere traverses the elevated plains
of Mexico. Heavy, gloomy, pitchy dark-
ness enveloped the earth. The road could
only be seen, when revealed by a sudden
flash of lightning. The pennons continu-
ed to stream and flutter in the wild gales
of the des rt. These, together with the
rising column of dust, served as guides to
the soldiers in the rear. The artillery
rumbled oVer the rocks, and \]n fire spark-
led beneath the wheels. At length heavy
sleep an 1 f.itigue oppressed many; but

the NIGHT MARCH ON THE DESERT WHS Still

continue 1. It were folly to halt, for no
water could be obtained. The soldiers
were grea ly wearied ; some of them al-
most fell from their horses. Some drop-
ped their arms, and were necessitated to
search after them, while the rest marched
by, wagged their heads, and made sport
und laughter. Some straggled oft' and lay

down upon the desert, overpowered by
sleep. Some, gifted with a richer fund of
wit, a finer flow of spirits, a nobler store
of mental treasure, and more physical endu-
rance, sang Yankee Doodle, love songs, and
related stories to the groups that gathered
round, as it were, to extract one spark of
life to aid them on the march. About
midnight a halt was ordered. The tired
and sleepy soldiers tethered their animals,
and lay down in the dark promiscuously,
on the desert, wherever they chanced to
find a smooth spot of earth. They took
no supper that night.

There are a great many lizards in Chi-
huahua and Durango, and it appeared as
if this desert was their headquarters; for
they crept into the men's blankets, and
bedding, and annoyed them greatly while
sleeping. Suddenly aroused from slumber
by these slimy companions, the soldiers
would sometimes shake their blankets, toss
the scorpions and lizards, and aluerans,
upon their sleeping neighbors, exclaiming
angrily, " d — n the scorpion family." The
others, half overpowered by sleep, Avould
sullenly articulate, " don't throw your
d — n-d lizards here." Thus they lay,
more anxious to obtain a little slumber
than to escape a swarm of these repulsive
reptiles.

The march was commenced early the
next morning. The dust was absolutely
intolerable:. The soldiers could not march
in lines. They were now already become
thirsty, and it was yet forty miles to water
The dust filled their mouths, and nostrils,
and eyes, and covered them completely.
They were much distressed during the
whole day. Many of them became faint,
and their tongues swollen. The horses,
and often the stubborn, refractory mules,
would fail in the sand, and neither the spur
nor the point of the sabre was sufficient to
stimulate them. Sometimes the volunteer,
boiling with ire, wouH dismount and at-
tempt to drag the sullen mule along by the
lariat.* How earnestly he then desired
once more to be in the land of gushing
fountains, verdant groves, rail roads, steam
boats and telegraphic wires !

The teamsters, and those with the artil-
lery, and the animals, suffered extremely.
But they endured it all with patience. Af-
ter suffering every hardship, privation and
distress by matching, which men must
necessarily experience in passing such a
desert, they arrived at the spring, Santa

*See cut pag^ 129.

NIGHT MARCH ON THE DESERT.

129

'■D — inn a mule, any how."

Bernada, at sunset. Here there is a grove
of willows and alamos. These afforded a
pleasant shade. There is also at this place
a copious, gushing spring, which furnished
an abundance of water for the men and the
animals. This spot, with its groves and
springs, disrobed of all poetry, proved in
reality to be an oasis, a smiling, inviting re-
treat in a desert, desolate, treeless waste of
sand, rocks and naked mountains. Here
the soldiers took rest and repose.

On the 6th of May the army advanced
into the State of Durango, to die Cerro
Gordo. This river terminates in Laguna
de Xacco. The following day we arrived
at the out post, Palayo, where our advance
had the previous day taken some horses
and a few Mexican soldiers. This small
military station is about one league from
the town of Jarilito, which is now entirely
deserted on account of the depredations and
incursions of the Comanches. Since 1835
the Indians have encroached upon the fron-
tiers of Mexico and laid waste many flour-
ishing settlements, waging a predatory war-
fare, and leading women and children into
captivity. In fact the whole of Mexico is
a frontier. An elevated Table Plain ex-
tends from the gulf of Mexico to the foot
of the Cordilleras, intersected by innume-
rable ranges of mountains, and clus'ering,
isolated and conical-shaped peaks, invaria-
bly infested by bands of savages, and still
fiercer Mexican banditti. No effort of the
Mexican government has been able to sup-
press and oust these ruthless invaders of
the country.

At Palayo some of the men killed a few
beeves, pigs and chickens belonging to the

of35or40 miles per day, over a dusty,
desert country, almost entirely destitute of
water. Most of the men had not had a
pound of meat for the last three days. Be-
sides the exigency of the case, the State of
Durango was at that very moment in arms
against us. Would the most scrupulously
moral man in Misso'm denounce his son
as a thief and a robbc, ^oause, after trav-
elling more than 3,000 miles by Isnd, and
having spent the last cent of his slender re-
sources for bread, coldly neglected by his
government, he found it necessary to kill
an ox or a pig to satisfy hunger, or should
think proper to mount himself on a Mexi-
can horse, in a country which the prowess
of his own arm had been instrumental in
subduing? It is one thing for the philoso-
pher to sit in his studio and spin out his
finely drawn metaphysical doctrines, and
another, and entirely different thing, to put
them in practice under every adverse cir-
cumstance. What is most beautiful in
theory is not always wisest in practice.
On the 8th the command reached the
Hacienda Cadenas, 24 miles from Palayo.
Here we obtained the first information of
Gen. Scott's great victory at Cerro Gordo.
At such welcome tidings a thrilling sensa-
tion of joy pervaded our camp. Here we
took possession of another piece of cannon,
which, although well mounted, Col. Doni-
phan restored to the inhabitants. On the
9th, a march of 22 miles brought us to the
city of Mapimi, which had steadily mani-
fested the greatest hostility to the Ameri-
cans. This is a mining town. It has five
furnaces for smelting silver ore, and one for
smelting lead ore. It is one of the richest

Mexicans, and feasted upon them at night, j towns in the State, excepting the capital.
There was much to palliate this offence. The Mexican forces, 3,000 strong, fled from
The regiment had been marched at the rate j Mapimi and Durango upon our approach,

130

DONIPHAN'S EXPEDITION.

and left the state completely in our power,
had Gen. Wool but permitted us to visit
the capital. Gen. Heredia, and Governor
Ochoa of Durango, wrote lo Santa Anna
to send them 20 pieces of cannon and 5,000
regular troops, or the State of Durango
would immediately fall into the hands of
Col. Doniphan's regiment, if he saw proper
lo direct his march against it. Upon our
arrival at Mapimiwe obtained more certain
intelligence of the victory of the American
forces over the Mexicans at Cerro Gordo,
in honor of which a national salute of 28
guns was fired by Weigh tman's battery.
Here also a copy of Gov. Ochoa's procla-
mation was found, in which he earnestly
exhorted the inhabitants of Durango never
to cease warring until they had repelled the
" North American invaders" from the soil
of Mexico.

This day's march had been excessively
hot and surfocating, and extremely severe
upon the sick. Just before reaching Mapi-
mi, 2d Lieutenant Stephen Jackson, of
Howard, died of an inveterate attack of
typhoid fever. Lieutenant Jackson was ta-
ken ill in the Navajo country, and had nev-
er entirely recovered. He was not at the
battle of Brazito, being at that time sick in
Soccorro ; but he afterwards fought with
great bravery in the more important action
at Sacramento. His corpse was interred
(on Sunday the 9th) with appropriate mili-
tary honors. Also, the priest of Mapimi
in his robes, with the Bible in his hands,
and three boys dressed in white pelisses,
two of them bearing torches and the third
in the centre with a crucifix reared upon a
staff, preceded the bier, first to the catholic
church and then to the grave, at both of
■which places the catholic ceremonies were
performed.

On the 10th we made a powerful march
of near forty miles to San Sebastian on the
Rio Nazas. The heat and dust were almost
insufferable. Don Ignacio Jermanez, who
attempted to capture the Express-men, fled
to the city of Durango. The army foraged
upon him for the night, with the promise
to pay him in powder and ball at sight.
The Rio Nazas is a beautiful stream, full
of fish, r.nd empties into the three lakes,
Tagualila, Las Abas, and Del Alamo. Du^
ring this fatiguing march, two men, King
and Ferguson, died of sickness, heat and
suffocation. They were buried at San Se-
bastian.

On the llth the command marched to

San Lorenzo, a distance of thirty-five
miles, along a heavy, dusty road, hedged in
by an immense and almost impervious
chaparral. The heat was absolutely op-
pressive— water scarce. In this thick
chaparral, Canales, with a band of about
four hundred robbers, had concealed him-
self with the view of cutting off stragglers
from our army and committing depreda-
tions upon our merchant and provision
trains. But our method of marching with
the artillery and one battalion in front, and
the other battalion in rear of the trains and
droves of mules, anticipated his pre-medi-
tated attack. After cur arrival in San
Lorenzo, a Mexican courier came to the
colonel with news that Canales had made
an attack upon McGoffin's train of wagons,
and that McGoffin and his lady were likely
to fall into his hands. A detachment of
sixty men under Lieut. Gordon was quickly
sent to his relief. They anticipated Ca-
nales' movement. This little vil!-age, San
Lorenzo, has an over portion of inhabitants.
Every house and hut was crowded with
men, boys, women and children. Almost
every Avoman, old and young, had a child in
her arms, and some of them more than
one. Whether this superabundance of
population is the legitimate effect of the
salubrious climate, or is produced by
some other circumstances, is left for the
reader to consider. The march to-day
was distressingly hot and dusty. A Mr.
Mount, of the company from Jackson
county, straggled off in the chaparral, and
has never since been heard of;- — he was
doubtless murdered and then robbed by
lurking Mexicans.

On the 12th, early in the morning, the
front guard charged upon, and took three
Mexicans prisoners ; they were armed and
lurking in the mezquite chaparral near the
road, and were doubtless spies sent out by
Canales to obtain information of our move-
ments, but no positive proof appearing
against them, they were released. As our
animals Avere much worn down by the
previous day's march, and it being impos-
sible to procure forage for them, Ave only
marched fifteen miles to-day to the- little
rancho, San Juan, on a brazo or arm of
the Rio Nazas. Here both man and horse
fared badly. As our next day's march Avas
to be over a desert region of near forty
miles Avithout a drop of Avater, or even a
mouthful of food for our famishing animals ;
and also as the Avater had to be raised from

BATTLE OF EL POSO,

131

a well into pools and vats at El Poso where
the army was to encamp on the night of
the 13th, Lieut. Pope Gordon and fifteen
or twenty men were sent at midnight, in ad-
vance to draw water for the use of the army,
Theatnhor went along as their guide, having
traveled the same route on express to Sal-
tillo. At 9 A. M. Lieut. Gordon and his
advance arrived at El Poso, where we
found Captain Reid, with fourteen men.
Captain Reid, as elsewhere observed, had
accompanied Lieutenant-colonel Mitchell
on his way to Saltillo, with a detachment
of seventy or eighty men. Upon their
arrival at Parras (a city where Gen. Wool
had taken up his headquarters before he
formed a junction with Gen. Taylor, and
which had In en very friendly to the Amer-
icans, in the way of furnishing supplies
and taking care of Gen. Wool's sick men)
they found the inhabitants in much dis-
tress. A band of Comanches had just
made a descuit from the mountains upon
the city, and killed eight or ten of the citi-
zens, carried off nineteen girls and boys
into captivity, and driven off three hundred
mules and two hundred horses. Besides
this, they had robbed houses of money,
blankets, and the sacred household jrods.
They besought Capt. Reid to interfere in
their behalf; that although they were con-
sidered enemies to the Americans, it did
uot become the magnanimity of the Amer-
ican soldiers to see them robbed and mur-
dered by a lawless band of savages, the
avowed enemies both of the Mexicans and
Americans. Captain Reid undertook to
recover the innocent captives and chastise
the brutal savages. This is the occasion
of Capt. Reid's being at El Ptiso on the
morning of the 13th. Just as Lieutenant
Gordon and Capt. Reid joined their forces,
the Indians, about sixty-five in number,
made their appearance, advancing upon
the hacienda from a canon or pass in the
mountains towards the south. They had
all their spuds and capiives with them. —
Their intention was to water their stock at
El Poso, and augment the number of their
prisoners and animals. Thus boldly do
the Indians invade this country. Captain
Reid concealed his men (about thirty-five
in number) in the hacienda, and sent out
Don Manuel Ybarro, a Mexican, and three
or four of his servants, to decoy the Indi-
ans to the hacienda. The feint succeeded.
When the Indians came within half a mile
the order was given to charge upon them,

which was gallantly and promptly done.
Capi. Reid, Lieuts. Gordon, Winston and
Sproule, were the officers present in this
engagement, all of whom behaved very
gallanily. The Indians fought with des-
peration for their rich spoils. Many
instances of individual prowess and daring
were exhibited by Captain Reid and his
men, too numerous, indeed, to recount in
detail ; the captain himself, in a daring
charge upon the savages, received two
severe wounds, one in the face and the
other in the shoulder. These wounds
were both produced by steel pointed
arrows. The engagement lasted not less
than two hours, and was kept up hotly until
the Indians made good their retreat to the
mountains. In this skirmish we lost none.
The Indians lost seventeen killed on the
Held, and not less than twenty-five badly
wounded, among the former was the Chief
or Sachem. We recovered in this battle, all
the animals and spoils which the Indians
had taken from the Mexicans, and restored
the captive boys and girls to their friends
and relatives.

Let those whose moral scruples induce
them to doubt the propriety of Captain
Reid's brilliant sortie upon the Indians,
consider, that the Comanches have rarely
failed to murder and torture in the most
cruel manner, without discrimination, all
Americans who have unfortunately fallen
into their hands. The Comanches are
our uncompromising enemies. Read the
brutal treatment Mrs. Horn and others
received from them, and you can but justify
("apt. Reid's conduct. In truth he de-
serves the gratitude of both Mexicans and
Americans, for the chastisement he visited
upon the heads of these barbarous wretches.
The people of Parras expressed their
gratitude to Capt. Reid and his men in the
following handsome and complimentary
terms :

Letter of thanks from the people of Par-
ras to Captain John W. Reid and his men
after the battle of the Poso, translated by
Captain David Waldo.

Political Head r f the De- >

PARTMENT OF PARRAS. }

At the first notice that the Indians, after
having murdered many of our citizens and
taken others captives, were returning to
their homes through this vicinity, you,
most generously and gallantly, offered,
with fifteen of your countrymen, to com-

132

DONIPHAN'S EXPEDITION.

bat them at the Poso, which yon most
bravely executed with celerity, skill, and
heroism, and worthy of all encomium, mer-
iting your brilliant success, whicli we shall
ever commemorate. You re-took many
animals, and other property which had
been captured, and liberated eighteen cap-
tives, who by your gallantry and good
conduct have been restored to their families
and homes, giving you the most hearty and
cordial thanks, ever feeling grateful to you
as their liberator from a life of ignominy
and thraldom, with the deep gratitude the
whole population of this place entertain in
ever living thanks. One half of the Indi-
ans being killed in the combat, and many
flying badly wounded, does not quiet the
pain that all of us feel for the wound that
you received in rescuing christian beings
from the cruelty of the most inhuman of
savages.

All of us ardently hope that you may
soon recover of your wound, and though
they know that the noblest reward, of the
gallant soul is to have done well for his
country, yet they cannot forego this expres-
sion of their gratitude.

I consider it a high honor to be the organ
of their will in conveying to you the general
feeling of the people of the place ; and I
pray you to accept the assurance of my
high respect. God and Liberty.

DON IGNACIO ARRABE.
Parras, 18 May, 1847.

On the evening of the 14th of May the
army reached the delightful city of Parras,
handsomely situated at the northern base
of a lofty range of mountains running east
and west, after having performed a fatigu-
ing march of thirty-six miles, without one
drop of water, and almost without seeing
one spr'g of green vegetation, save the
pointed maguey, and the bristling cactus.
At Parras we found a plentiful supply of
good water and forage for our perishing
animals. We found Parras in reality to
possess whatever of charm the imagination
his thrown around one of the most beau-
tiful of oases. We found a lovely a.lameda to
screen us fiom the scorching rays of an
almost vertical sun : besides a variety of
fruits to satisfy the eager appetite. Pan as
js famous for its pretty women, and for the
intelligence of its population generally,
many of the citizens having received an
English education in the United States. —
The people here are much inclined to favor

the institutions and government of our
country. Don Manuel Ybarro, the pro-
prietor of a large hacienda near Parras,
was educated at Bardstown, Ky., and has
acted a very friendly part towards the
American troops. For his numerous acta
of kindness towards the author and hi»
companions in arms, he desires to return
his grateful acknowledgments.

Upon Col. Doniphan's reaching Parras,
he received a communication from Gen.
Wool, by the hands of Ybarro, in which
he was authorized to purchase, on the
credit of the United States, such provisions
and forage, as his men and animals requi-
red; he was also instructed to allow his
men such respite as their condition, after
so much toil, and so many distressing
marches, seemed to demand, and to extend
to the intelligent and hospitable citizens of
Parras kind treatment in reciprocation for
their numerous acts of benevolence towards
the sick Americans, whom he had been'
forced to leave at that place, upon his
forming a junction with Gen. Taylor, at
Saltillo.

Though the Missourians manifested the
utmost civility towards the inhabitants of
Parras, one incident occurred to mar the
general harmony and good feeling whicli
had prevailed. A few disaffected Mexi-
cans fell upon a man, Lickenlighter, in the
employ of the artillery, and with staves,
and stones, bruised him so that he subse-
quently died in Monterey. This aggrava-
ted instance of cruelty, commenced by the
Mexicans, excited the artillery-men. and
all the Missourians, to such a degree that
they fell upon whatever Mexicans exhib-
ited the least insolence, and beat them se-
verely. Some say that two of ihem were
killed, but of this nothing certain is known.
Nor were the officers able to restrain the
men. Capt. Pike and a portion of the ad-
vance under Lieutenant-colonel Mitchell,
having halted at this place, now rejoined
the army.

On the morning of the 17th, the whole
force moved off in the direction of Saltillo,
and in less than five days, having comple-
ted more than one hundred miles, the Mis-
sourians pitched their camps with the Ar-
kansas cavalry, at Encantada, near the bat-
tle-field of Bnena Vista, where there is an
abundant supply of cool and delightful
water.

During this march they passed through
a rugged, mountainous country, almost en-

ARRIVAL AT SALTILLO.

133

ti. ply destitute of vegetation, pro-
ducing only mezquite chaparral,
clusters of dwarfish acacia, Spanish
bayonet, maguey, and palmilla.- —
This last often grows thirty feet in
height, and three feet in diameter,
the body of which is sometimes
used as timber for the construction
of bridges. On the tops of the
mountain peaks, and sometimes by
the way side, might be seen the
cross, the symbol of the national
faith, and object of universal rever-
ence, constructed in the rudest and
most primitive manner, with a small
heap of stones at its foot, and fancifully
and reverentially entwined with festoons of
■wild flowers. This march passed by the
Haciendas Ybarro, Cienega Grande, Cas-
tanuella, the princely Hacienda de Patos,
and the ruins of San Juan, where there is
much water. This last place had been de-
stroyed by the Americans.

On the 22d of May, the regiment was
reviewed by Gen. Wool in person, accom-
panied by his staff, and the following com-
plimentary order made, viz :

HttADaCAIlTKUS, Bt'KXA VlSTA, ~>

May 22d, 1847. 5

The general commanding takes great pleasure in
expressing the gratification he has received this af-
ternoon in meeting the Missouri volunteers. They
are about to close their present term of military ser-
vice, after having rendered, in the course of the ar-
duous duties they have been called on to perform, a
series of highly important services, crowned by deci-
sive and glorious victories.

No troops can point to a more brilliant career
than those commanded by Col. Doniphan, and no
one will ever hear of the battles of Brazito or Sa-
cramento without a feeling of admiration for the men
«wh<> g.iined them.

The State of Missouri has just cause to be proud
of the achievements of the men who have repre-
sented her in the army against Mexico, and she will
without doubt, receive them on their return with all
the joy and satisfaction to which a due appreciation of
their merits and services so justly entitle them.

In bidding them adieu, the general wi>hes to Col.
Doniphan, his officers and men, a happy return to
their families.

By command of Brig. Gen. Wool:

IKVIN McDOVVELL, A. A. A. Gen.

On the 23d the Missourians marched to
Gen. Wool's* camp, where Capt. Weight-

CROSS BY THE WAY-SIDE,

man delivered up his battery to Captain
Washington. The Mexican cannon which
were captured in the action at Sacramento,
they were permitted to retain as the tro-
phies of their victory. These were sub-
sequently presented by Colonel Doniphan
to the State of Missouri, to be the evi-
dences through all time to come, of the
valor, chivalry and good conduct of the
troops under his command.

The Missouri column, now passing Sal-
tillo, the Grand canon of the Rinconada,
Santa Catarina, and the city of Monterey,
arrived in the American camp at the Walnut
Springs, on the 26th, having in three days
performed a march of seventy miles, du-
ring which two brave soldiers, Smith and
Smart, died, and were buried with becom-
ing military honors. Major-General Tay-
lor, having reviewed the Missouri troops
on the morning of the 27th, issued the fol-
lowing; order :

Heaihiuabtebs, Aiimt of Occupation-,

Camp near Monterey, May 27, 1847,

:l

* To those readers who desire to peruse a full
and faithful account of the operations of Generals
Wool, Taylor, Patterson, Quitman and Scott, the
author would recommend the "Twelve Months'
Vuluiitrer.'' a new and interesting history, by G. C.
Furber, of the Tennessee cavalry, recently published
bv J. A. & U. P. James, Cincinnati.

Col. Doniphan's command of Missouri volun-
teers will proceed, v'a Camargo, to the mouth of
the river, or Brazos island, where it will take water
transportation to New Orleans.

On reaching New Orleans, Col. Doniphan will
report to Gen. Brooke, commanding the Western
Division, and also to Col. Churchill, inspector gen-
eral, who will muster the command for discharge
and payment.

At Camargo Col. Doniphan will detach a suffi-
cient number of men from each company to conduct
the horses and other animals of the command by
land to Missouri. The men so detached will leave
the necessary papers to enable their pay to be
drawn when their companies are discharged at New
Orleans.

The Quartermaster Department will furnish the
necessary transportation to carry out the above
orders.

The trophies captured at the battle of Sacramento,
will be conveyed by Col. Doniphan to Missouri, ami
there turned over to the Governor, subject to tho
final disposition of the War Department.

134

DONIPHAN'S EXPEDITION.

In thus announcing the arrangements which close
the arduous and honorahle service of the Missouri
volunteers, the commanding general extends to them
his earnest wishes tor their prosperity and happi-
ness, and for a safe return to their families and homes.

By command of Maj. Gen. Taylor :

W. W. BLISS, A. A. A. G.
When Gen. Taylor received authentic
information of the fall of Vera Cruz, the
capitulation of the castle of San Juan d'
Ulhta, and the capture of Chihuahua, he
published the following order to the troops
under his command :

HKAnauAitTF.ns, Ai!5!T of Occupation, ~)
Camp near Monterey, April 14, 1847. 5

The commanding general has the satisfaction to
announce to the troops under his command, that
authentic information has heen received of the fall
of Vera Cruz, and of San Juan de Ullua. which ca-
pitulated on the 27th to the forces of Maj. Gen.
Scott. This highly important victory reflects new
lustre on the reputation of our arms.

The commanding general would, at the same
time, announce another signal success, won by the
gallantry of our troops on the 28th of February,
near the city of Chihuahua. A column of Mis-
souri volunteers, less than one thousand strong,
under command of Col. Doniphan, with a light
field battery', attacked a Mexican force many times
superior, in an intrenched position, captured its ar-
tillery and baggage, and defeated it with heavy loss.

In publishing to the troops the grateful tidings.
the general is sure that they will learn, with joy and
pride, the triumphs of their comrades on distant fields.
By order of Maj. Gen. Taylor :

W. W. BLISS, A. A. A. G.

CHAPTER XXI.

Def f KTtxR-E for New Orleans — Execution of a Guorullri
Chief — Mier ami Camargd — Death of Serjeant Swain
— Arrival at Rpy.nosa — Water Transportation — The
Month — Brazos Santiago -The Troops sa:l for New
Orleans — The Balize — Chivalry of the South — Recep-
tion in the Crescent City.

Having left our sick men in Monterey, after
a hasty march of thirty miles on the 2(Hh,
during which we passed the rivers Agua Fria
and Salinas de Parras, we encamped in the
small town, Marin, where there was but little
forage, and not the semblance of either green
or dry grass. The next day, passing through
a country covered with an almost impervious
mezquite chaparral, and over the ground where
Gen. Urea's band captured Gen. Taylor's pro-
vision train, and barbarously and inhumanly
murdered the unarmed teamsters, whose skele-
tons and half-devoured frames still lay scat-
tered promiscuously along the road, over which
vultures, dogs, and wolves, were yet holding
carnival, and having progressed thirty-five
miles, we encamped at a fine, bold running
spring, not far from Cerralvo.

The next day, advancing about seven miles,
to Cerralvo, we halted to take some refresh-
ment. Here we witnessed the execution, by
the Texan Rangers, of a Mexican guerrilla
chief, one of Urea's men, who had been cap-
tured the previous night. His captors prom-
ised to spare his life, upon condition that he
would reveal to them, where his comrades
might be found. He refused to betray them,
averring that he had killed many Americans,
and he would kill many more if it were in his
power. He added : — " My life is now in the
hands of my enemies ; I am prepared to yield
it up: only I ask that I may not be tied, and
that I may be allowed to face my execution-
ers." Having lighted his cigartito, with the
utmost nonchalance, he faced his executioners,
(a file of six Texan Rangers,) who were de-
tailed for the purpose. They were ordered to
fire. Five balls penetrated the skull of the
guerrilla chief. He instantly expired.

On the 30th we encamped in Mier, situated
on the small river Alcantro, and famous for
having been the place where the Texans ca-
pitulated to Gen. Ampudia. The next day we
reached Camargo, on the San Juan, where we
obtained an abundant supply of provisions, for
this place had been converted into a govern-
ment depot. This river admits of steamboat
navigation. While here one of our compan-
ions, Tharp, who had performed much hard
service, died of sickness. He was buried witfc
the honors due to a brave soldier.

On the 1st of June, Major Gilptn, with a
small detachment of men, started in advance
of the column, with the intention of proceed-
ing to Reynosa, to engage transportation fov
the army, by steamboats, thence to the mouth
of the Rio Grande. After proceeding a few
miles, one of his party, Sergeant Swain, a
good soldier, having imprudently straggled on
ahead, by himself, was shot by Mexicans
lurking in the chaparral. To avenge his death
the party charged, as soon as practicable, upon
the Mexicans, who were adroitly making their
escape, and killed one of them. Four others
were, a short time afterwards, captured by
Capt. Walton, with a small detachment of
men, at a neighboring rancho, and carried to
camp at Upper Reynosa, at which place wo
found Col. Webb, of the Kith regiment, U.
S. Army. The prisoners were delivered over
to him ; hut finding no positive evidence that
they were the same, who had committed the
bloody deed, although one of them had blood
on his clothes, they were discharged, and con-
ducted out of camp by a guard. But the com-
pany to which Swain belonged, were so mtw;ri
enraged that, as it is said, they went out from
camp, and killed part of them as soon as dis-
missed by the guard. Of the truth of this,
we are not certainly informed ; for those who
knew, would not divulge the truth, lest they
should be censured by those in command;
but the fire of their guns was distinctly heard.

After resting a few hours, and burying the

DEPARTURE FOR NEW ORLEANS.

135

dead, the march was continued down the river,
through the chaparral all day, and all the fol-
lowing night. At sunrise the advance of the
column arrived at Reynosa, where we were
greeted by the sight of steam vessels ready to
transport us to the Gulf.

Colonel Doniphan, now taking the sick
men on board the first transport that could be
obtained, proceeded to the mouth of the river,
to engage shipping, as early as practicable,
for New Orleans, leaving Lieutenant-colonel
Jackson, Major Gilpin, and Major Clark, to
provide the means of transporting their respec-
tive battalions down the river. Certain of the
soldiers, impatient of delay, and anxious to get
home, censured Col Doniphan for leaving them
at Reynosa, without providing them with im-
mediate transportation; but they did not con-
sider how important it was that he should go
in advance to Brazos Island, and have ships
ready engaged to convey them without delay
to New Orleans. Without such precaution
on the part of the commander, the whole col-
umn might have been obliged to lie many
days on the beach, waiting for vessels in
which to cross the Gulf. This, therefore,
eventuated most opportunely, for ships were
made ready in the harbor, before the men
arrived at the Brazos.

Meanwhile the troops at Reynosa were
obliged to lie one or two days on the river
bank in a comfortless and miserable plight,
(for it rained incessantly, and the men had no
place to lie, nor tents to shelter them, but
stood as cattle in the mud both day and night,)
before they could procure transports.

On the fourth and fifth, the men having
'burned their saddles, and other horse rigging,
and sent their animals by land to Missouri,
went aboard stearn-vessels, and on the seventh
the whole force arrived safely at the mouth of
the river, where they disembarked, and bivou-
acked upon the margin of the stream until
■{he morning of the ninth, the intermediate
lime being spent by the soldiers in the most
refreshing and pleasant bathings in the River
tnd the Gulf.

Lieutenant James Lea, quartermaster, pro-
ceeded with his trains from Reynosa to Mata-
moras, and turned over to the quartermaster
at that place all his wagons, mules, and com-
missary stores.

General Taylor's order requiring a "suffi-
cient number of men" to be detailed at Camargo
for the purpose of conducting " the horses and
other animals of the command by land to Mis-
souri," was not complied with ; for the volun-
teers did not choose to obey the order, regard-
ing the stock of hut little value. However,
Sergeant Van Bibber, and about thirty-five
other men, voluntarily agreed to drive the
stock, (of such as would allow them a com-
pensation of ten dollars per head for their
pains) through Texas to Missouri, and deliver
them in the county where the owner resided.
Accordingly this party, with about seven

hundred head of stock, leaving Reynosa on the
4th, proceeded to Camargo, and thence into
the United States, arriving in Missouri, with
the loss of near half the animals, about the
15th of August.

On the 9th we walked over to the harbor
at the north end of Brazos Island, whence we
were to take shipping for New Orleans, and
on the following day the artillery and about
two hundred and fifty men embarked on the
schooner Murillo, and Col. Doniphan with
seven hundred men embarked on the stately
sail-ship Republic, and under a favoring
gale arrived safely in New Orleans on the
15th, having, in twelve months, performed a
grand detour through the Mexican Republic,
of near four thousand miles by land and water.

This most extraordinary march, conducted
by Colonel Doniphan, the Xenophon of the
age, with great good fortune, meets not with a
parallel in the annals of the world.

Our passage across the gulf was speedy and
prosperous. One of our number, only, was
committed to a watery grave. This was Chris-
topher Smith, than whom none was a better
soldier. Ridge, also a brave soldier, died, and
was conveyed to New Orleans for interment.

We had now been in the service twelve
months, had traversed the plains and solitudes
of the west, had waded through the snows in
the mountains of New Mexico, had traveled
over the great deserts of Chihuahua, Durango,
Coahuila, Nueva Leon, and Tamaulipas, half
naked, and but poorly supplied with provis-
ions, and were weary of camp service, and
packing up baggage. Therefore we were anx-
ious to return to our homes and our families.
When the men came within sight of the Ba-
lize — when they could but just discover,
through the mist, low in the horizon, the dis-
tant, green, looming shores of their native
country, they shouted aloud in the pride of
their hearts, and, Columbus-like, gave thanks
to the beneficent Author of all good, not only
for the prosperous voyage over the Gulf, but
the unparalleled success of the Great Expe-
dition.

The chivalry of the South is unsurpassed ;
the ffenerosity of the southern people une-
qualled. Their feelings are alive to every no-
ble and magnanimous impulse. Their breasts
are swayed by sentiments of true honor. Who
will deny that the population of the Crescent
city inspires patriotism from very proximity to
the field immortalized by Jackson's victory ?
New Orleans, for months previous to the ar-
rival of Col. Doniphan, had been wound up to
the highest degree of military excitement, and
had, in truth, been the great thoroughfare for
the departure and return of perhaps more than
ten thousand volunteers, destined for the war,
and returning from their various fields of glory ;
yet, the Missourians, rough clad, were receiv-
ed with unabated enthusiasm, and a cordiality
for which they will ever gratefully remember
their friends of the south. As they passed up

136

DONIPHAN'S EXPEDITION.

the Mississippi, the streaming of flags from
the tops of the houses, and the waving of white
handkerchiefs hy the ladies, as a token of ap-
proval, from the windows and balconies of the
stately mansions which every where beautify
the green banks of the " Inland Sea," announ-
ced to them that their return was hailed with
universal joy ; that their arduous services were
duly appreciated ; and that Louisianians are
not only generous and brave, but nobly pa-
triotic. Such a reception was worth the toil
of an hundred battle-fields.

Isolated from every other branch of the army,
barred by intervening deserts from all commu-
nication with the government, thrown entirely
upon its own resources, compelled to draw
supplies from a hostile country, and in the ab-
sence of instructions or succors, Col. Doni-
phan's command was left to cut its way through
the country of a subtle and treacherous enemy.
Destitute of clothing, and the means of pro-
curing it — not having received a dime since
the day of enlistment, and none then, save
forty-two dollars commutation for clothing —
the men almost grew as did Nebuchadnezzar,
being indeed, rough samples of Rocky Moun-
tain life. Their long-grown beards flowed in
the wind similar to those of the rude Cossacks
of Northern fturope, while their garments
were worn to shreds, bivouacking on the rocks
and sands of Mexico. Their dishevelled hair,
their long-grown whiskers, their buck-skin
apparel, their stern and uncouth appearance,
their determined and resolved looks, and their
careless and nonchalant air, attracted the gaze,
and won the admiration of all people. Though
they were somewhat undisciplined, yet they
were hardy, unshrinking, resolute, independ-
ent, chivalrous, honorable and intelligent men,
such as, indeed, " would not flatter Neptune
for his trident, nor Jove for his power to thun-
der."

CHAPTER XXII.

DisciAR-iE of the Troops — Their Return to Missouri —
Recept on at St. Lou's — Banquets and Donors — Doni-
phan crowned with a Laurel Wreath — Conclus.ou.

We have hitherto considered in what man-
ner the troops under Col. Doniphan were
conducted over the great solitudes to Santa Fe';
how they invaded the snow-capped mountains
in pursuit of the fearless Navajos; how General
Kearney with a small force crossed the conti-
nent, and held California in quiet possession ;
how Col. Price succeeded to the command of
the troops in New Mexico; how Col. Doni-
phan invaded and conquered the states of
Chihuahua and Durango; thence traversing
extensive deserts, treeless, barren and water-
less; oftentimes subsisting his army on half
rations and less; and how, after infinite suffer-
ing and toil, he arrived at the Gulf, and sailed
for New Orleans.

The Missourians were now permitted to
turn over to the ordnance master, at New Or-
leans, the arms they had used on the expedi-
tion, and with which they had achieved signal
victories. They were forthwith mustered for
discharge and payment by Col. Churchill,
which process was completed between the 22d
and the 28th of June, Having received pay-
ment, and an honorable discharge from (he ser-
vice, they departed to their respective homes
in detached parties, each one now traveling
according to his own convenience, and being
no longer subject to command. They gener-
ally arrived in Missouri about the 1st of July,,
having been absent thirteen months.

Anticipating the arrival of the returning
volunteers, the generous citizens of St. Louis
had made ample preparations to give them
a hearty, welcome, cordial reception, and
testify to them the esteem in which their
services were held by their fellow citizens. — ■
But as the volunteer soldiers, who were now
become citizens, returned in detached parties,
and were very anxious to visit their families
and friends, from whom they had so long been
separated, they could not all be induced to
remain and partake of the proffered hospitali-
ty. However, the company under Capt. Hud-
son, having in charge the captured Mexican
cannon, and near three hundred officers and
privates of different companies, being in the
city on the 2d of July, it was agreed that the
formalities of the reception should be gone
through with. Accordingly the various mili-
tary, and fire companies, of the city, were pa-
raded in full uniform; the people collected in
great crowds; the Mexican cannon, the tro-
phies of victory, were d ragged along the streets,
crowned with garlands : and an immense pro-
cession was formed, conducted by T. Grim.s-
ley, chief marshal, which, after a brief, ani-
mating speech from the Hon. J. B. Bowlin,
and a still briefer response from Lieutenant-
colonel Mitchell, proceeded to Camp Lucas,
where the Hon. T. H. Benton delivered to the
returned volunteers, and a concourse of more
than seven thousand people, a most thrilling
and eloquent address,* recounting, with aston-
ishing accuracy, and extraordinary minute-
ness, the events of the great campaign.

When the honorable Senator concluded,
Col. Doniphan was loudly and enthusiastically
called to the stand ; whereupon he rose and
responded in a very chaste, and modest, yet
graphic address, in which he ascribed the great
success and good fortune, which continually
attended him on his expedition, rather to the
bravery and conduct of his soldiers, than 13
his own generalship.

For months succeeding the return, to the
State, of the Missouri volunteers, sumptuous
dinners, banquets, and balls, tables loaded
with delicate viands, and the richest wines,
were everywhere spread to do them honor, as

* See Benton's nirl Doniphan's speeches, Missouri Re-
publican, July 3d, 1647

THE LAUREL WREATH.

jf thereby to compensate, in some measure,
for past hardships, and the immensity of toil
and peril, which they had experienced in
climbiii" over rugged, snow-capped moun-
tains; in contending with the overwhelming
forces of the enemy ; in enduring bitter cold,
pirrhing hunger, burning thirst, incredible fa-
tig 'z, and sleepless nights of watching, and
in bivouacking upon the waterless, arid des-
erts of Mexico. But their past dangers, both
from the foe and the elements, were now soon
fcigotton amidst the kind caresses of friends,
and the cordial reception with which their fel-
low-citizens continually greeted them. The
maxim which has descended from former
ages, and which has met the sanction of all
rations, that Republics are ungrateful, has
not in this instance proved true; for there was
now a campaign of feasting and honors.

On the 29th of July a public dinner was
given by the citizens of Independence, (Mo.,)
in honor of Colonel Doniphan, his officers,
and men. on which occasion the ladies, be-
ing anxious to testify their respect to the
hero of Sacramento, and those who followed
where he dared to lead, had prepared the Lau-
rel Wreath, in all ages the "gift of beauty
to valor." for the victor's brow. After the
welcoming speech, by S. H. Woodson, and a
thrilling and stirring response by Col. Doni-
phan, Mrs. Buchanan, in behalf of the ladies,
delivered from the stand, in the presence of
five thousand people, the subjoined eloquent
address.

'• 1 ong had the world echoed to the voice of Fame
when her brazen trumpet spoke of the Tories of Greece
and Rome. The sun looked proudly down upon Ther-
mopylae when Leonidas had won a name bright and glo-
rious as his own golden beams. The soft a:rof the Italian
clime plowed, as the splendor of a Roman trumph flash-
ed through (he eternal city. Rut the mantle of desolation
now wrars the mouldering pillars of Athens and of
Rome, and fame deserting her ancient haunts, now fills
our own fair land with the matchless deeds of her heroic
sons. I. "Ice the diamond in the recesses of the mine, lay
for cen'uri' s the land of Columbia. Like that d'amond
when art's transforming fingers have polished its peerless
lustre, it now shines the most resplendent gem in the
coronal o1" nation?,

••The records of the Revolution, that dazzling picture
in the Temple of History, presents us with the nstoirsh-
ings:ghi of men whose feet had never trodden the strict
paths of m'litary discipline, defy'ng. conquering the
trained ranks of Ihe British army: whose trade is war.
Nor d d tin-" r pair'ot'sm. lbe:r energy, die with the Fa-
thers of the Revolution — their sp;rTt lives in their sons.

••Th>- s'nr which represents M:ssour\ shone not on the
banner thai shadowed the venerated head of Washing-
ton. Pm ihe unrivaled deeds of the Missouri Volunteers
have added such brilliancy to its beams, that even he
whose Kind laid the corner-slou*» of the temple of Ame-
rican lil erty. and placed on its Airshed shrines the res-
cued flag of hs country, would feel proud to give the star
of Missouri a place amidst the time-honored, the far-
famed -old tlrrteen.' The Spartan, the Athenian, the
Roman, who offered on the altar of Mars the most bril-
lianl sacrifices, were trained even from their infancy, in
all the arts of war. The service of the bloody god was
to them the business of life. aye. even its pastime ; iheir
Tery dreams were full of the lumult of I aitle. but ihey
who hewed asunder, with their good swords, the chains
of a Br'rsh tyrant, and they who have rendered the
names of Rrazito and Sacramento watch words to
toiisc the valor of succeeding ages, hurried from the
<ju:et lal ors of the field, the peaceful halls of justice, the
cell of the student, and the familiar hearth of home, to
swell lh«J ranks of the defenders of ftjeir native, land.

" Yohmtrers of Missouri : — In ih»" memory of your coun-
try, no brighter page can be found than that which re-

cords your own bright deeds. Many of you had never
welcomed the morn ng light without the sunshine of a
mother's sm;le to make it brighter: many of you had
known the cares and hardships of life only in name; still
you left the home of your childhood, and encountered
perils and sufferings thai would make the cheek of a Ro-
man soldier turn pale ; and encountered them so gallantly
that time in his vast calendar of centuries can show none
more bravely, more freely borne.

'• We welcome you back lo your home. The triumph
which hailed the return of the Caesars, lo whose war-
chariot was chained the known world. is not ours (ogive;
nor do you need it. A prouder triumph than Rome could
bestow is yours, in the undying fame of your proud
achievements. Hut if the welcome of hearts filled with
warm love and well merited admiration; heart* best
known and longest tried, be a triumph, it is yours in the
fullest extent.

"The torrent of eloquence to which you have just lis-
tened, the rich feast that awaits you. are the tributes of
your own sc\ : but we, the fairer part of creation, must
offer ours also. In the name of the ladies who surround
me, 1 bestow on you this laurel wreath — in every age
and every clime, the gift of beauty io valor. In placing it
on the brow of him who now kneels to receive it, I
place it on the brows of all who followed where so
brave, so dauntless a commander led. It is true that
around the laurel wreath is twined every association of
genius, glory and valor, but 1 feel assured that it was
never placed on a brow more worthy to receive it than
his on which it now rests — the hero of Sacramento."

It does not become the author to extol in.
unmeasured terms the gallant officers who led
with such marvelous success, nor the brave
men who bore with Roman fortitude and pa-
tience, the fatigues of the Western Expedi-
tion, beyond what every candid and generous
mind will readily concede. Equally the con-
duct, of both is worthy of encomium. They
performed all, and more than all, ihe govern-
ment, expected at their hands. After the con-
quest of New Mexico, Gen. Kearney with one
hundred men, completed an astonishing over-
land expedition to the shores of the Pacific,
one thousand and ninety miles distant from
Santa Fe'. This great march was conducted
over stony mountains, barren plains, and in-
hospitable deserts.

Colonel Doniphan and his men scaled the
granite heights of the Cordilleras, amidst
fathoms of accumulated, eternal snows, in the
depth of winter, when the wide waste of rocks
and the horrid, driving snow-storms were their
most relentless enemies. Having spent three
months, and performed a campaign of 750
miles in the most rugged and inhospita-
ble regions on the continent, they return to
the valley of the Del Norte. Here they re-
fresh themselves, and recruit two days ; after
which they commence the grand march upon
Chihuahua, and gain immortal renown on the
trophied fields of Brazito and Sacramento.—
The Capital and the State, witli two hundred
thousand inhabitants, become a conquest to
less than a thousand Missourians. This
march was near six hundred miles through
barren and waterless regions.

The nation almost trembled for the safety of
Gen. Wool's column thirty-five hundred strong
with heavy artillery, when 'ie set out frcm
San Antonio on his intended expedition ao-ainsl
Chihuahua. Many apprehended his complete
overthrow, and argued that it would result in
a prodigal waste of means, and a useless and
wanton sacrifice of human life, for so small »

138

DONIPHAN'S EXPEDITION.

force to march against so powerful and popu- '
lous a state. But llie strong hold of Centra!
Mexico is in possession of the hero of Sacra-
mento, with nine hundred and twenty-four
Missourians, and the American flag floats in
triumph over its walls.

Leaving Chihuahua for more extended oper-
ations, and anew theatre of action, they move
off" through the states of Durango and Coa-
huila, traversing parched, arid, waterless
wastes, for more than six hundred miles,
ready to succor General Taylor, if beleaguered
in Sal til I o, or to accompany him over the Ce-
dral Desert in his contemplated descent upon
San Louis de Potosi, having previously sent
fourteen express-men on a most perilous en-
terprise to learn the General's wishes.

Their services being now no longer required,
the commander-in-chief dispatches them to
the United States, by way of Matamoras and
the Mexican Gulf. They sail for New Or-
leans where they are discharged. They re-
turn to Missouri from the eastward graced
with the trophies of the vanquished foe, having
in twelve months, performed a magnificent
circuit of more than 3500 miles by land, and
2500 by water, with the loss of less than one
hundred of their original number.

The expedition of Cyrus against his bro-
ther, Artaxerxes, and the retreat of the ten thou-
sand Greeks, famous through all time, con-
ducted by Xenophon arid Cherisopus, forms
the only parallel to Col. Doniphan's expedi-
tion, recorded in history. In fifteen months
Cyrus and Xenophon conduct this expedition
about 3450 English miles, with the loss of
several thousand brave men, and finally re-
turn to Greece, possessing nothing save their
lives and their arms. In thirteen months Col.
Doniphan and his Missourians, accomplish a
similar expedition, (except as to its objects)
of more than 5500 miles, returning decorated
with the spoils of war, and meeting with the
hearty approval of their countrymen.

The distance over which Gen. Kearney
marched, was perhaps greater than that over
which Col. Doniphan passed; but the former
conducted an army only to California, return-
ing privately ; while the lattercoinmanded and
provided for his men, and that too without
funds, until they were disbanded at New Or-
leans.

But where are the permanent, the beneficial
results of this wonderful, this almost fabulous
Expedition of Col. Doniphan 1 — the utilitarian
will inquire. The facts, that the Chihuahua mar-
ket, which the war had closed, was re-opened
for the admittance of several hundred thousand
dollars worth of American goods, which other-
wise would have been sacrificed, to the ruin
of the merchants, if not indemnified by the
Government; that new and mnre desirable
commercial relations will henceforward assur-
edly spring; up between Chihuahua and the
western Slates, and on a safer and more equi-
table basis ; that the insults and wrongs which

had been repeatedly heaped on American citi-
zens, and the decimation of the Mier prison-
ers, were now completely avenged by the de-
feat of a haughty and supercilious foe; that
great light has been thrown on the political
condition and geographical position of central
Mexico, which had hitherto been but little ex-
plored by Americans; that the Mexican peo-
ple have now been taught something of the
strength of their northern neighbors; that they
have acquired some knowledge of the effects
of free institutions, liberty, and general edu-
cation upon mankind ; and that all central
Mexico was thereby neutralized during the
war, — will sufficiently answer the important
inquiry.

Thus terminated the most extraordinary
and wonderful Expedition of the age, attend-
ed throughout by the most singular good for-
tune, conducted under the auspices of Col.
Doniphan, wh> has been very justly styled
the Great Military Pkdestrian, the Vic-
tor and Diplomatist.

CHAPTER XXIII.

Col. Price — Disposition of tlie troops — The Consp:racy
— Conspiracy detected — Second Conspiracy — Massa-
cre of Gov. Bent and retime— Baltics of Canada. Km
budo. Pueldo de Taos, and the Mora — Death of Capts
Burgwin and Hend'.ey — Restoration of tranquillity.

It will be remembered that on the 26th oi
October, 1846, Col. Doniphan took his de-
parture from Santa Fe', on an excursion against
the Navajo Indians, and was rejoined at Santo
Dorningo by three hundred of his own regi-
ment, who had been previously stationed at
the grazing encampment near San Miguel, but
were now ordered to proceed into the moun-
tains, on a most serious and trying campaign.
Col. Doniphan returned no more to Santa Fe'.

The command of the troops in New Mexico
thenceforward, devolved on Colonel, now Brig-
adier-General Sterling Prick. For the pres-
ervation of health and activity among his
troops — which consisted of the2d regiment un-
der his own immediate command, an extra
battalion under Lieut.-Col. Willock, a battal-
ion of infantry under Captains Angney and
Murphy, one company of light artillery under
Captain Fischer, the Laclede Rangers under
Lieut. Elliott, two hundred of the lstdragfrns
under Capt. Burgwin, (Major Sumner having
returned to the United States on the 18th of
October,)and some additional artillery and mis-
cellaneous troops under Lients. Dyer and Wil-
son of the U. S. Army, making an aggregate
force of near 2,000 men — and also for the pres-
ervation of good order, quiet, and entire sub-
mission on the part of the malcontent New
Mexicans and Pueblo Indians, Col. Price ;\t
first thus disposed of his forces:

CONSPIRACY AGAINST THE GOVERNMENT.

139

Capt. Burgwin, with the 1st dragoons, was
stationed at Alhurquerque to maintain tran-
quillity on the Rio Ahajo; a squadron of two
hundred men, under M;ijor Edmondson, was
scouring -about Oebolleta; a small force under
Capt. Hendley was ordered to the valley of
the Mora, with tiie view of finding forage for
the stock, and of preserving peace and subor-
dination in that quarter, as well as also to
check the predatory incursions of the border
Indians, who were becoming quite troublesome
and deserving of chastisement; the remaining
forces were retained at the capital as a gar-
rison.

On the 28th of October, two days after the
departure of Col. Doniphan from Santa Fe',
Col. Price issued an order requiring the troops
under his command to appear on parade, for
drill and discipline, twice each day. The of-
ficers were required to perform an extra drill,
that they might be better qualified to instruct
the men. This discipline was rigidly adhered
to. Every one, the least acquainted with mil-
itary affairs, is aware how difficult a matter it
is to preserve good order and wholesome dis-
cipline in a garrison composed entirely of vol-
unteers. The unrestrained, independent life
to which the citizen soldier has been accus-
tomed, unfits him for garrison service. He
becomes impatient of discipline, and desires
active, useful, honorable employment. For
'this reason regular troops are much better for
garrisons than volunteers ; but are none their
superiors in an arduous and daring campaign.

About the 1st of December, the most dis-
tinguished of the malcontents began to hold
secret cabals and consultations, and to plot the
overthrow of the actual, existing government.
Oftentimes the conspirators, like Catalineand
his accomplices in guilt, would withdraw into
some retired room in the capital, or on the fiat
top of some unfrequented building, and there
at the silent hour of midnight machinate a
scheme for the massacre of all the Americans,
the establishment of a new government, and
installation of new governors. The leaders
of this dark and desperate conspiracy were
Don Tomas Ortiz, who aspired to be governor
of the province; Don Diego Archulette, who
lind been nominated as commanding general;
and Seniores Nicholas Pino, Miguel Pino,
Santiago Armijo, Manuel Chavez, Domingo
Baca, Pablo Dominguez, Juan Lopez, and
many others, all men of great and restlessam-
bition, and expectants of office if the conspi-
racy should have a favorable issue.

The 19th of December, at midnight, was
the time at first appointed for the revolt to
commence, which was to be simultaneous all
over the department. In the meantime each
one cf the. conspirators had a particular part
of the state assigned him, to the end that they
might gain over the whole people of the pro-
vince. The profoundest secrecy was to be
preserved, and the most influential men. whose
ambition induced them to seek preferment,

were alone to be made acquainted with the
plot. No woman was to be privy to these
things. lest they should be divulged.

Each having pledged himself to the others
on the cross that he would be faithful and vi-
gilant in consummating their designs, as speed-
ily and successfully as possible, departed,
some into one place and some into another.- —
For his part Tomas Ortiz, who had been se-
cond in command to Armijo, the late governor,
went to El Bado, that he might stir up the
people there; Diego Archulette hastened to
the valley of Taos, to make known bis plans,
and solicit aid in that quarter; Domingo Baca
departed to the Bio Abajo to excite the inhab-
itants, and procure assistance there; Pablo
Dominguez and Miguel Pino proceeded to the
settlements on the river Tesuca, to enlist them
in the enterprise: and the priest Leyba would
propose the same to the people at San Miguel
and Las Bagas.

For the more certain success of the revolu-
tion, the conspirators assembled in secret con-
clave in the capital, on the night of the 15th
of December, to consult, mature their plans,
and arrange the method of attack. Don San-
chez, when apprehended and brought before
the tribunal, testified that Don Diego Archu-
lette commenced the discourse :• — " 1 make the
motion that there be an act to nominate a go-
vernor and a commander-general, and I would
nominate Tomas Ortiz for the first office, and
Diego Archulette for the second." This was
unanimously carried, and the act signed by
every individual present. After this was con-
cluded, they commenced a discourse relative
to the method of surprising the governmental
Santa Fe; and taking possession of the place.
They decided upon the following plan : "On
Saturday evening, the 19th of December, all
were to assemble with their men at the parish
church. Having divided themselves into sev-
eral parties, they were to sally forth, some to
seize the pieces of artillery, others to go to the
quarters of the colonel, and others to the pa-
lace of the Governor, (if he should be there,)
and if not, to send an order to Taos to seize
him, because he would give the most trouble.
This act was also agreed on by all. The
sound of the church bell was to be the signal
for the assault by the forces concealed in the
church, and those which Don Diego Archu-
lette should have brought near the city — mid-
night was the time agreed on, when all were
to enter the "plaza" at the same moment,
seize the pieces of artillery and point them
into the streets. The meeting now dissolved."

Owing to a want of complete organization
and concert, and that the conspiracy was not
yet fully matured, it was concluded to sus-
pend the attack for a time, and fix on Christ-
mas-eve night for th*. assault, when the sol-
diers and garrison would oe indulging in wine
and feasting, and scattereo about through the
city at the fandangos, noi naving their arms in
their hands. All the Americans without dis-

140

DONIPHAN'S EXPEDITION.

tinction throughout the state, and such New
Mexicans as had favored the American go-
voiiiment, and accepted office hy appointment
of Gen. Kearney, were to he massacred, or
driven from the country, and the conspirators
were to seize upon and occupy the govern-
ment. This enterprise, however, failed of
success, being detected, exposed and crushed
by the vigilance of Co!. Price, his officers
and men.

The conspiracy was detected in the follow-
ino manner: a mulatto girl, residing in Santa
Fi?, had married one of the conspirators, and
had hy degrees obtained a knowledge, of their
movements and secret meetings. To prevent
the effusion of blood which would inevitably be
the result of a revolution, she communicated
to Col. Price, all the facts of which she was in
possession, and warned him to use the utmost
vigilance. The rebellion was immediately
suppressed.

But the restless and unsatisfied ambition of
the leaders of the conspiracy did not long per-
mit them to remain inactive. The rebellion
bad been detected and smothered, but not com-
pletely crushed. A second and still more
dangerous conspiracy was plotted. The most
powerful and influential men in the State fa-
vored the design. An organized plan of
operations was adopted. The prcfoundest se-
crecy was preserved. While all appeared to
be quiet and secure, the machinations of the
conspirators were maturing, and gaining
strength. Even the officers of State, and the
priests, gave their aid and counsel. The peo-
ple every where, in the towns, villages, and
settlements, were exhorted to arm and equip
themselves, to strike for their faith, their reli-
gion, and their altars, and drive the " heretics,"
the "unjust invaders of the country," from
their soil, and with fire and sword pursue them
to annihilation. On the 19th of January this
rebellion broke out in every part of the State
simultaneously.

On the 14th of January, Governor Charles
Bent, attended by an escort of five persons,
among whom were the sheriff, circuit attorney.
and the prefecto, left Santa Fe and proceeded
to Taos. Upon his arrival there he. was ap-
plied to by the Pueblo Indians, to release
from prison, two of their number, who, for
some misdemeanor, had been incarcerated by
the authorities. The governor told them they
must await the ordinary process of the laws.

On the 1 9th of the same month the gover-
nor and his retinue were murdered in the
most cruel and inhuman manner, by the Pue-
blos and Mexicans at the village San Fernan-
do. On the same day seven other Americans,
after standing a siege of two days, were over-
powered, taken and butchered in cold blood
at the Arroyo Hondo; also four at the town
Mora, and two on the Colorado.*

•Tin- follow n? persons fell v:cliins lo tlie conspiracy.
AtTao* C. Bon. governor: S. I,ee. sheriff: J. \V. I-eal,
circuit ntiorney ; C. Virgil, (Mexican.) prefecto; N. 13au-

The insurgents had assembled in strong
force at. La Canada, under command of Gens
Ortiz, Lafoyn. Chavez, and Montoya, with the
view of making a descent upon Santa Fe'. —
Col. Price having ordered Major Edmondson
and Captain Burgwin, with their respective
commands from the Pio Ahajo. on the morn-
ing of the 23d. at the head of 353 men,* and
four mountain howitzers, marched against the
insurgents, leaving Lieut, colonel Willock,
with a strong garrison, in command of the
capital. The weather was extremely inclem-
ent, and the earth covered with snow.

"On the evening of the 24th, Colonel Price
encountered the enemy at Canada, numbering
about 2000 men, under the command of Gans„
Tofaya, Chavez, and Montoya. The enemy
were posted en the hills commanding each
side of the road. About two o'clock P. M. a
brisk fire from the artillery under the com-
mand of Lieuts. Dyer (of the regular army)
and Harsentiver, was opened upon them, but
from their being so much scattered, it had but
little effect.

The artillery were within such short dis-
tance as to he exposed to a hot fire, which
either wounded or penetrated the clothes of 19
or 20 men who served the guns. Col. Price
seeing the slight effect which the artillery
bad upon thern, ordered Capf. Angney with
his battalion to charge the hill, which was^
gallantly done, being supported by Capt. St.'
Vrain, of thecitizens, and Lieut. While, of the
Carroll companies. The charge lasted until
sundown. Our loss was two killed and seven
wounded. The Mexicans acknowledge a loss
of 36 killed, and 45 taken prisoners. The en-
emy retreated towards Taos, their stronghold.
Colonel Price on the 2Tlh took up his line of
march for Taos, and again encountered them
at El Embudo on the 29th. They were dis-
covered in the thick brush on each side of
the road, at the entrance of a defile, by a party
of spies, who immediately fired upon them.
Capt. Burgwin, who had that morning joined
Colonel Price with his company of dragoons,
hearing the firing, came up, together with
Captain St. Vrain's, and Lieutenant White's
companies. A charge was made by the three
companies, resulting in the total rout of the
Mexicans and Indians. The battle lasted
about half an hour; but the pursuit was kept
up for two hours.

The march was resumed on the next day,
and met with no opposition until the evening
of the 3d of February, at which time they ar-
rived at the Pueblo de Taos, where they found
the Mexicans and Indians strongly fortified. —
A few rounds were fired by the artillery that
evening, hut it was deemed advisable not to

bien, son of Judge Panbien ; anil Jirm'a. a Mexican. At
the Arroya Hondo, twelve miles from Taos — S. Tujriey,
A. Cooper. \V. Ilarfield. L. Folqne, P. Roberts, J. Mar-
shall, and W Anst;n. At the Ro Colorado— M. Head,
and W. Harwood. At the Mora— L. Waldo, R. Culver,
Noyes, two others.
*See Col. Price's official dispatch, February 15th, lfc47.

INSURRECTION SUPPRESSED.

f41

snake a general attack then, but wait until
morning. The attack was commenced in the
morning by two batteries under the command
of Lieuts. Dyer and Wilson, of the regular
army, and Lieut. Harsontiver of the light ar-
tillery, by throwing shells into the town. —
About meridian, a charge was ordered and
gallantly executed by Capt. Burgwin's com-
pany, supported by Capt. McMillan's compa-
ny and Capt. Angney's battalion of infantry,
supported by Capt. Burbee's company. The
church, which had been used as a part of the
fortifications, was taken by this charge. The
fight was hotly contested until night, when
two white flags were hoisted, but were imme-
diately shot down. In the morning the Fort
was surrounded. The old men, the priest and
the matrons, bringing their children and their
sacred household gods in their hands, besought
the clemency and mercy of their conquerors.
Pardon was granted. In this battle fell Capt.
Burgwin, than whom a braver soldier, or bet-
ter man, never poured out his blood in his
country's cause.

The total loss of the Mexicans in the three
engagements, is estimated at two hundred and
eighty-two killed, the number of their wound-
ed is unknown. Our total loss was fifteen
killed,* and forty-seven wounded.

Learning of the insurrectionary movements
on the '20th of January, Capt. Hendley, who
was in command of the grazing detachment
on the Pecos, immediately took possession of
Las Bagas, where the insurgents were begin-
ning to concentrate their forces. He now or-
dered the different grazing parties to unite
with him, and prepare for offensive and de-
fensive warfare. In a short time he was join-
ed by various detachments, increasing his
numbers to two hundred and twenty-five men.

Lieut. Hawkins, with thirty-five men. was
dispatched on the 22d to escort a train of wa-
gons into Las Bagas, the Mexicans having
sent out a party to plunder them. He soon
met Capt. Murphy, with a train of wagons,
convoyed by a detachment of Capt. Jackson's
company, having in his possession about three
hundred thousand dollars in specie. The con-
voy returned about one day's march to guard
the provision train, while the specie train
moved on. escorted by Lieut. Hawkins.

Capt. Hendley, leaving the greater part of
his force at Las Bagas, on the 22d, with eighty
men started for the Mora, where he had learn-
ed the Mexicans were embodied, two hundred
strong. He arrived before the place on the
24th, " found a body of Mexicans under arms,
prepared to defend the town, and while form-
ing his men in a line for attack, a small party
of insurgents were seen running from the hills.
A detachment was ordered to cut them off,
which was attacked by the main body of the

enemy. A general engagement immediately
ensued, the Mexicans retreating, and firing
from the windows and loop-holes in their
houses. Capt. Hendley and his men closely
pursued them, rushing into their houses with
them, shooting some, and running others
through with bayonets. A large Ik dy of the
insurgents had taken possession of an old fort,
and commenced a fire from the loop-holes upon
the Americans. Capt. Hendley with a small
party had taken possession of an apartment in
the fort, and while preparing to fire it, he vas
shot by a ball from an adjoining room. He
fell, and died in a few minutes. Our men
having no artillery, and the fort being impreg-
nable without it, retired to La Vegas. The
enemy had twenty-five killed, and seventeen
taken prisoners. Our loss was one killed,
and three wounded.

Thus fell the brave Captain Hendley, al-
most in the very moment of victory ; and while
we lament his loss, it is some consolation to
know that he died like a soldier. His body
was taken to Santa Fe', where he was buried
with all the honors of war. " *

On the 1st of February, the death of Capt.
Hendley, as well as that of Messrs. Waldo,
Noyes, Culver and others, was avenged by
Capt. Morin and his men, in the complete de-
j molition of the village Mora. The insurgents
fled to the mountains. The dead bodies of the
Americans who had been assassinated, were
conveyed to Las Bagas for interment.

The battles of La Canada, Embudo, Pueblo
de Taos, and the Mora, in all of which the in-
surgents were vanquished with heavy loss,
suppressed the insurrection, and once more
restored quiet, law and order throughout the
territory. On the 6th of February, Montoya,
one of the leaders of the conspiracy, who had
styled himself the Santa Anna of the North,
was court-martialed and sentenced to be hung.
He was executed on the 7th, f in the presence
of the army. Fourteen others who were con-
cerned in the murder of Gov. Bent, were tried,
convicted, and executed in a similar manner,
in the neighborhood of Taos.

Leaving a detachment of infantry in the
valley of Taos, under the command of Capt
Angnpy, Colonel Price returned to Santa Fe,
where he continued to discharge the highest
civil and military functions of the territory. —
At a subsequent period, however, Capt. Ang-
ney was relieved by Lieut-colonel Willoek's
battalion of cavalry.

The leading instigators of the revolution
having fallen in battle, been executed upon a
charge of treason, or escaped the punishment
merited by their offences, by flight to the ntann-

* Killed — Capt Burgwin. Lieut. Van Valkenhnrg-
Sergts. Caldwell. Ross and Hart, and privates. Graham.
Smith. Par>in. Bower, Brooks, Levicy, Hansuker. Truax.
Austin suid Bebee.

* The rema:ns of Capts Hendley and Lurgwin. sev-
eral Lieutenants, and sutler Albert Wilson, were exhum-
ed at Santa Fe. and brought to Fort Leavenworth, where
they were interred on the "22d of September. 1 8-17: except
those of Capi. Hendley. wh:ch were conveyed to Rich
mond. and I uried on the 23d.

t The court mart'nl cons!sted of sTx officers. Capts.
Angney. Barhee. and Slack : Lieuts. Ingalls. White auJt
Eastin ; the latter being Judge Advocate of the court.

142

DONIPHAN'S EXPEDITION.

tains, the country once more enjoyed a short
lepose. The insurgent armies were dispersed •
The people returned from the liills and moun-
tains, whither many of them had fled for ref-
uge during the excitement, to their respective
homes, and resumed their daily avocations. —
Peace and harmony once more reigned through-
out the province.

CHAPTER XXIV.

Isckeased vigilance of the troops — Suspicion — Battle ot"
the Red river eunon — Murder of Lieut. Brown — Battle
of Las Ba<jas — Six prisoners executed — Attack on the
Cienega — Indian outrages — Robberies — Lieut. Love —
Capt. Mann — The new levies.

After the suppression of the rebellion in
New Mexico, the troops were posted in almost
every part of the country. A greater degree
of vigilance was observed, and stricter discip-
line enforced. The conduct of the Mexicans
was watched with the utmost scrutiny. No
house was permitted to retain arms, or other
munitions of war; nor was any Mexican cava-
lier suffered, as had hitherto been the case, to
ride with impunity about the country, and
through the American camps, displaying his
weapons and warlike trappings, making esti-
mates of the American forces, and keeping a
strict espionage upon their movements. The
American soldiers, roused to indignation by
the brutal massacres and frequent assassina-
tions which had already blackened the annals
of the campaign, and thrown a dark shade over
the conquest of the country, scarcely spared
the innocent and unoffending. However, no
acts of violence were perpetrated.

, The soldiers slept upon their arms. They
never left, their quarters, or rode out of the city,
or visited the villages, or passed through the
country, without their arms in their hands. —
They were always prepared, both night and
day, for any sudden emergency that might
arise ; with such suspicion and animosity did
the Americans and New Mexicans now regard
each other. A suspicious quietude reigned
throughout the territory, but it was only that
the rebellion might break out afresh on the
first favorable opportunity.

On the 2f»th of May, 1847, Maj. Edmondson,
With a detachment of two hundred men under
Capts. Hnlaway & Robinson, and Lieuts. El-
liott and Hughes, was vigorously attacked by
a large body of Mexicans. Apache, Comanche,
and Kiawa Indians combined, at the " Red
river canon," ahout one hundred and twenty
miles from Santa Fe'. The enemy were sup-
posed to number about five hundred. The ac-
tion commenced about sunset, and continued
until dark. The defile was narrow, and on
either hand the spurs of the mountains were

rugged and inaccessible to cavalry. The pass
led through a morass or quagmire, so difficult
of passage that many of the horses stuck fast
in the mud. The cavalry could not act to any
advantage. Major Edmondson therefore dis-
mounted the men, and cautiously advanced
against tile enemy, under the heavy fire. The
enemy was repulsed; but gaining fresh cour-
age, he renewed the attack with more vigor
than ever. The Americans now slowly reti-
red in good ordera few hundred paces, and oc-
cupied a more favorable position for defence.
The retreat was covered by Lieut. Elliott,
with the Laclede rangers. It was now dark.
The next morning Major Edmondson led his
force through the canon to renew the attack;
but the enemy had retreated. In this engage-
ment the Americans lost one man killed, and
had several slightly injured. The Mexicans
and Indians suffered a loss of seventeen killed,
and no doubt many more wounded.

On the 26th of June, the horses belonging
to Capt. Horine's company of mounted men,
stationed under Major Edmondson, at Las Ba-
gas, were stolen by the Mexicans, and driven
into the neighboring mountains. On the 28th
Lieut. Brown and privates McClanahan and
Quisenbury, together with one Mexican as a
guide, were dispatched in pursuit of them.
Not returning on the following day as they in-
tended, their companions rightly conjectured
that they had been murdered. On the 5th of
July a Mexican lady came into Las Bagasand
stated that three Americans and one Mexican
had recently been slain, and their dead bodies
consumed to ashes.

Major Edmondson, immediately after re-
ceiving this information, posted out a strong
picket guard, with instructions to permit no
one to enter the camp, without first being
brought before him. On the same day, pri-
vate William Cox, of Capt. Hollaway's com-
pany, while hunting in the mountains, dis-
covered three suspicious looking Mexicans,
endeavoring to shun him, whereupon he cap-
tured and brought thern into camp. They
were separately examined by Major Edmond-
son. but not being able to extort from them a
satisfactory answer, one of them was hanged
by the neck several times, and until he had
aimost expired. When let down the third
time, he stated that three Americans and one
Mexican had been recently murdered, and
their dead bodies burnt, near Lns Bagas. —
When this confession was extorted, Major Ed-
mondson quickly ordered the detachment^
which consisted of twenty-nine cavalry, thir-
ty-three infantry, and one twelve pound moun-
tain howitzer, to prepare for the march, ex-
pecting to reach town before daylight the next
morning.

Major Edmondson, ascertaining that he
would not he able to reach Las Bagas as soon
as he. desired, hurried on with the cavalry,
leaving orders for the infantry and artillery to
follow in his rear with all possible haste. On

SEVERE FIGHT WITH INDIANS.

143

reaching the place, he divided his men into
two parties, under command of Capts. Hol-
laway and Horine. They were now ordered
to charge at full speed on the right and lefi
at the same moment, and gain possession of
the town. The charge was gallantly made.
The Mexicans commenced a precipitate re-
treat towards the mountains. A part of the
Americans fired upon them, while the others
entered the town. In less than fifteen minutes
ten Mexicans were slain, the fugitives were
captured, and the town, with fifty prisoners,
taken. The Americans sustained no loss. —
The dead body of Lieut. Brown, having the
cross suspended from the neck, was not burn-
ed, but secreted among the rocks. Such rev-
erence is paid to the cross by the most cruel
men. The clothes, guns, sabres, holsters,
pistols, bowie-knives and trinkets of these
unfortunate men were discovered, secreted in
various houses. Their ashes were also found.
The greater part of the town was reduced to
ashes, only a sufficient number of houses being
left to shelter the women and children. Also
the mills, a few miles from Las Bagas, which
belonged to the alcalde, who was known to
have participated in the murder of Lt. Brown's
party, were consumed.

The prisoners, by order of Col. Price, were
conveyed to Santa Fe', where they were tried
before a drum-head court-martial, and six of
them sentenced to death. This sentence was,
accordingly, put into execution in Santa Fe.
on the 3d of August, in the presence of the
army.

On the 9th of July, a detachment of thirty-
one men, belonging to Capt. Morin's compa-
ny, stationed on the Cienega, eighteen miles
from Taos, was furiously attacked, two hours
before daylight, by two hundred Mexicans and
Pueblo Indians combined. Five of our men
were killed,* and nine wounded. The re-
mainder of the party retired under the hanks
of the Cienega, which position they gallantly
held until Capt. Shepherd arrived with his
company, and assisted them in vanquishing
the enemy.

In the spring of 1847 the Indians, princi-
pally the Pawnees andComanches, infested the
Santa Fe' road, committed repeated depreda-
tions on the government trains, fearlessly at-
tacked the escorts, killed and drove off great
numbers of horses, mules and oxen, belonging
to the government, and in several instances.
overpowered, and slew, or captured many of
our people. They openly declared that they
would cut off all communication between the,
Western States and New Mexico, and cap-
ture and enslave every American, who might
venture to pass the plains.

In pursuance of these views, a large body of
Indians, on the 22d of June, attacked a re
turning government train near the grand Ar

*The killed were Lienl. I.ark'n. \V. Owens. J. A.
Wright. W. S. Mason, and — Wilkinson. The los.v oi*
the enemy was not ascertained.

kansas, drove off* eighty yoke of oxen, and in
sight of the teamsters, whose force was too
weak to offer effectual resistance, wantonly
and cruelly slaughtered thorn for amusement,
and for the gratification of their savage pro-
pensities.

On the 26th Lieut. Love's convoy, with
300,000 dollars in specie, encamped near the
Arkansas. He was furiously assailed by a
body of 500 savages, who had taken their po-
sition in the road, and lain in wait to surprise
at dawn. They succeeded in frightening the
stock. One hundred and fifty yoke of oxen,
in an estampeda, wildly scampered off, and
crossed the river, followed by the Indians,
yelling and firing amongst the herd. Twenty
of Lieutenant Love's men pursued to recover
the cattle, while the rest remained to protect
the train. They charged the Indians about one
mile, who retired; but. this was a ruse to lead
them into an ambuscade. At this moment
more than 100 Indians sallied forth from an
ambush, intercepted their retreat, and fiercely
attacked them. They were now completely
surrounded by the savages. The engagement
became close and severe. At length the Amer-
icans charged through the enemy's ranks, and
made good their retreat. The loss of the In-
dians in this action was 25 killed, and perhaps
double that number wounded. The Ameri-
cans, in killed and wounded, lost eleven. The
savages were mounted on horses, and armed
with guns, pistols, lances, shields, and bows
and arrows.

On the 27th of October, 184G, Capt. Mann's
train of twenty-four government wagons was
encamped, thirty miles below the crossing of
the Arkansas. The next morning two of the
hest mules were missing. The captain and
Yates started in search of them. They had
not proceeded far when they saw signs of In-
dians. They returned to camp — geared up —
and started off, leaving Woodson and Stricklin
a short distance in the rear, with one wagon.

At this crisis several hundred Indians came
charging and yelling furiously from the hills,
and some attacked the train, while others sur-
rounded the two men with the wagon. The
trains were halted and the wagons corraled.
Woodson and Stricklin were rescued, but the
wagon which contained the captain's scrutoire
and three years' outfit of clothing, was taken,
rifled, and burned. The American loss was
one killed, and four wounded — less of the In-
dians not ascertained.

The Indians now surrounded the corral; —
night approaching. Capt. Mann and his men
determined to gear up, take the wounded, and
decamp. Accordingly a white flag was hoist-
ed, and the train moved off. In a short time
they were overtaken by the savages, who told
them they desired to be friendly. A halt was
ordered and the wagons again corraled. About
10 o'clock at nioht the Indians came rushing
and yelling, like a legion of devils, and drove
off two hundred and eighty mules, leaving

144

DONIPHAN'S EXPEDITION.

only twelve behind. The party now decamp-
ed, left the trains, and traveled on foot thirty
miles, carrying the wounded, where they over-
took Capt. Mcllvaine, who sent back for the
wagons. Here they fortified, four miles be-
low the Crossing, and sent the wounded to
Fort Bent.

About the 1st of July, 1847, a regiment of
volunteer infantry, raised in Illinois, and com-
manded by Cols. Newby and Boyakin, were
outfitted at Fort Leavenworth, and dispatched
across the plains, to relievo the troops under
Col. Price, at Santa Fe', whose term of service
would soon expire. This is the Gth Illinois
regiment.

Also between the 5th and 20th of August a
battalion of infantry, under command of Lieu-
tenant-colonel Easton, and a f.ill regiment of
cavalry, commanded by Cols. Ralls and Jones,
and Major Reynolds, all Missouri volunteers,
departed from Fort Leavenworth, destined for
Santa Fe'. This is the 4th regiment, and the
fourth separate battalion of volunteers, Mis-
souri has furnished for the war with Mexico.

About the 27th of .September, the fifth sepa-
rate battalion of Missouri volunteers, under
Lieutenant-colonel Powell, left Fort Leaven-
worth for its destination, on the Oregon route.
This is denominated the Orenon battalion, and
it will be employed in constructing a cordon
of military posts from Western Missouri to the
Oregon territory. It is a cavalry corps.

Between the 1st and 15th of August, Gen.
Price, and the troops under his command, re-
turned to Missouri, where they arrived about
the 35th of September, having lost, more than
four hundred men, in battle and by disease. A
garrison of five companies, three of volunteers

and two of regulars, was left in Santa Fe',
under Lieutenant-colonel Walker. Gen. Price
has returned to Santa Fe'. His force is now
about three thousand men.

In eonsetpjence of the recent, repeated ag-
gressions of the Indians on the Santa Fe'road',
the Executive determined to send against them
a body of troops. Accordingly on the 24th of
July a requisition was made oil the State of Mis-
souri for five companies of volunteers, two of
cavalry, two of infantry, and one of artillery.
This corps, the sixth separate battalion of Mis-
souri volunteers, commanded by Lieutenant-
colonel Gilpin, was outfitted at Fort Leaven-
worth, and took its departure thence for the
plains, on the Gth of October, where it will be
employed in quelling and overawing the sav-
ages, who beset the Santa Fe road for booty.
This is called the Indian battalion.

These new levies are now in their various
fields of operation. Little else remains for
them to accomplish, but to secure the con-
quests which have already been made. If, how-
ever, their subsequent achievements should
he deemed worthy of historic record, they may
be embraced in a future edition of this work.

The author has now finished his labors, and
if he has afforded entertainment for the curi-
ous, truth for the inquisitive, novelty for the
lover of romance, instruction for the student
of history, or information for the general read-
er, he feels himself amply rewarded for his
pains. Should any one, however, think that
the narrative herein given of the expedition, is
unfaithful, or incomplete, let him consider
how difficult it is to write history; how im-
possible it is to feast every appetite; and how
diverse are the sentiments of mankind.

HEAD-QUABTEKS,

DEPARTMENT OF NEW MEXICO.

SYNOPSIS

INDIAN SCOUTS AND THEIR RESULTS,

Year 1864.

GEXEExVL ORDERS,

NUMBEK 4.

HEAD-QUARTERS, DEP'T OF NEW MEXICO,
Santa Fe, New Mexico, February 18th, 1865.
GENERAL ORDERS, \

No. 4. f

I. The following record of combats with Indians on the partof the troops,
as well as on that of citizens of New Mexico and Arizona, during the .year
1864, is published for the information of all concerned. Only those opera-
tions are mentioned which were attended with results either in our favor or
against us, and they are about as one to four ; so that the account which
follows shews but a faint idea of the work performed. It is possible that
there may have been some robberies which are not mentioned here; but if
so. no authentic report of them has been received.

II. The number of Indians on the Reservation at the Bosque Kedondo.
as shewn by General Orders, No. 3, series for 1864, from these Head-Quar-
ters, was seven hundred and three Apaches and Navajos, on the 31st day
of December, of that year.

January. Major Sc7ia, 1st Cavalry, New Mexican Volunteers, with his
command, arrived at Fort Canby, bringing in three hundred and
forty-four Navajo prisoners.

Jan'y 3. Wagon-Master Rissell's train, en route to Fort Canby, N. M.,
was attacked near the Puerco by about one hundred and fifty
Navajo Indians. Mr. Risse.ll was killed. Mr. Strung and two
teamsters wounded. The three lead wagons were cut off, and
twenty mules were taken by the Indians, together with some
corn, blankets. &c.

This information was forwarded to the Commanding General
of the Department, by Major John G. McFerran, Chief Quarter-
Master, with the following remarks:

•• Respectfully referred to the Department Commander for his
information. This wagon-master, Russell, is Powell Russell,
who entered the service of the Quarter-Master's Department, as a
teamster, a poor, illiterate boy, in 1858. By his honesty, indus-
try, modesty, truth and energy, he rose to be the principal, or
head, wagon-master in the Department. This position he has
filled to the perfect satisfaction of every one, and has now fallen.
like a true man as he was, at his post and doing his duty. It will
be '• ru. v ry difficult to replace him."

Jan'y 5. Major Edward B. Willis. 1st Infantry, Cal. Vol's, Commanding
Fort Whipple, Arizona, reports that the Penal Apaches run off
eleven head of government cattle, at Walker's Mines. A party
under Oapt. Hargrave was sent in pursuit, but failed to overtake
the Indians.

Jan'y 6. Capt. Julius C. Shaw, 1st Cav., N. M. Vol's, Commanding Fort
Wingate, reports that four Navajo Indians surrendered them-
selves at that post

Jan'y 6. Major Henry D. Wallen, U. S. 7th Infantry, Commanding Foit
Sumner, New Mexico, reports that, on the morning of the 5th
inst., the Navajos run off the Apache herd from that post. Lieut.
Newbold, 5th U. S. Infantry, with ten mounted men of the 2d
Cavalry, Cal. Vol's, and 5th U. S. Infantry, were sent in pursuit,

accompanied by Mr. Labadi\ Indian Assent, Mr. Carillo, Mr.
Whitt more and twenty-five Apaches from the Reservation. Capt.
Galloway and his Company, "I," 1st Infantry, California Volun-
teers, was directed to follow the trail of the mounted party.

.Lieut. New bo id encountered over one hundred Navajos, mount-
ed and on foot, about twelve miles fi i the post. A sharp fight

ensue 1, in which nine Navajos were left dead on the held. The
Navajos then broke into two parties and fled, and a running
fight was kept up for about ten miles. Part of the force pursued
one party to the Pecos River. Of this party, only eight 850a] <d.
Of the other party of Indians, only seventeen escaped, and some
of these were wounded. Forts Indians are reported to have been
left dead on the field, and at least twenty-five wounded. It is be-
lieved that nearly all the Navajos would have been killed had it
not been for the extremely cold weather. The mercury was 10
degrees below zero. The men could with difficulty cap their
pieces— their fingers being so numb, borne were Irost-bitten.
About fifty head of horses and mules were recovered in this fight.
all belonging to the Apaches. Major Wallen calls the attention
of the General Commanding to the handsome manner in which
Lieut. Ncwbold managed this successful engagement : also to the
meritorious conduct of the soldiers, citizens and Apaches en-
gaged.

Jan'y 8. Mr. George Cooler, Wagon and Forage Master, at Fort Craig,
New Mexico, with 10 Infantry soldiers and a party of Mexican
citizens, while on a scout after Indians, recovered one Mexican
boy, named Vincente U?'bano, who was stolen by the Indians
near the Pecos River, one rifle and fifty-eight go\ts. On the llth
inst., came upon a party of Indians, and succeeded in killing one
and capturing one squaw and one child. In this skirmish two of
Cooler's party were wounded. One of them, Jose (rarci/i. died
the next day. On the 12th, found seven horses and one mule,
and captured two Indian women.

Jan'y 12. Captain Julius C. Shaw, 1st Cavalry, N. M. Vol's, Commanding
Fort Wingate, reports that Lieut. Jose M. Sanches. with a de-
tachment of Company '"F," 1st Cavalry, New Mexican Volun-
teers, attacked a party of Indians near the Datil Mountains, and
killed three men. captured two women and one boy. and 18 Nava-
jo horses and 62 head of sheep and goats. The Chief, Sordo,
was killed in this light. Capt. Shaw also reports that bO Navajos
have given themselves up at that post since the 1st inst.

Jan'y 14. Sergeant Joseph Felmer, 1st Cavalry. Cal. Vol's, reports that he
recovered 7 head of cattle, while in pursuit of a party of Indians,
and turned them over to Don Pablo, of La Joya, N. M.

Jan'y 15. Serafin Ramirez, a citizen of New Mexico, reports that the Nav-
ajo Indians drove on" 1- head of cattle and 2 mules belonging
to him, between the 25th of December and 0th of January, and
during the same time they killed 3 of his cattle.

Jan'y 21. Capt. Julius (I Shaw, Commanding Fort Wingate, N. M . re-
ports that 2;] Navajo Indians have surrendered at that post since
his last report.

January. On thebth inst.. Col. Chr' stn/ \her Carson. Commanding the Nava-
jo Expedition, left Fori Canby, New Mexico, with 14 Commis-
sion e I Officers and 375 enlistee] men. on an expedition to the Canon
de Chelly. On the 8th inst. one warrior was killed by the Colonels
escort. On the 12th. Serg't Ai <lr<-x Herrera, with •">() men. who was
sent out, the previous night, returned, bringing into camp 2 wo-
men and 2 children prisoners, and 130 head of sheep and goats,
and reported that his command had killed 11 and wounded 5 In-
dians. Or, the llth inst. Capt; /'''/.' and party, who had been
sent out from Fort Canby some days previous, to operate in the

east opening of the Canon, came into camp and reported having
passed through the Caiion without a single casualty in his com-
mand. He killed 3 Indians and brought in ID prisoners, wo-
men and children. On the 15th inst. 60 Indians arrived in camp
and surrendered then -elves as prisoners. On the same day a
parly, under command of Oapt. Joseph Bemey, Killed 2 Indians
and captured 4. One hundred and ten Indians surrendered to
Captain Carey's command, while upon its return march to Fort
Canhy. Result of this expedition : Indians killed, 23; wounded,
5; prisoners, o4 ; voluntarily surrendered, 200, and 200 head of
sheep and goats captured.
Jan'y 24. A party of 80 Americans and 14 Maricopa and Pimo Indians.
under Colonel King S Woolsey, Aide to the Governor ot Arizo-
na, attacked a band of Gila Apaches, 60 or 70 miles N. E. of the
Pimo Villages, and killed 19 of them and wounded others. Air,
Cf/rua Lennon, of Woolsey's party, was killed by a wounded In-
dian.

Jan "y 26. Lieut. Thomas A. Young, 5th Infantry. California Volunteers,
with 1 sergeant .and li privates of the California Volunteers,
started from Fort Craig, New Mexico, on a scout after Indians.
On the 28th inst. the party was attacked by about 60 Indians, wdio
wounded Lieut. Young, Sergeant Thomas Richards, and Privates
Harvey McConke.y, Thomas Clirk and Louis Mann, of Company
" D," 1st Cavalry. Cal. Vol's. In this affair 7 Indians were kill-
ed. The party, not being strong enough to continue the tight,
returned to Fort Craig on the 30th inst.

January. The Militia of Socorro County. New Mexico, under General St-an-
< Mimtoya, on a scout near Sierra Datil, killed 20 Indians
and took 20 prisoners.

Feb'y 2. Major E. II'. Raton, Commanding Fort Wingate, sent 200 Indi-
ans from that post to Los Finos, en route to the Bosque Kedondo.
The Chief. Delgadito, arrived at Fort Wingate this day. with 680
Indians.

Feb'y 14. Captain A. P>. Carey, U. S. A., Commanding Fort Canhy, N. M.,
reports the arrival at that post of Soldado Surdo, with his herd ;
also, that there are 1000 prisoners now at that post.

Feb'y 14. Captain Jos ph Bemey, 1st Cavalry, New Mexican Volunteers,
arrived at Los Pinos tin- day, bringing in 175 Navajo prisoners.

Feb'y 24. Captain .1. B. Carey, Commanding the Navajo Expedition, re-
port? that he has forwarded 175 Navajos to the Bosque Kedondo,
since 'last report, and that there are. now 1500 Navajos at Fort
Canhy. awaiting trans| ortation.

Feb'y 24. Lieut. Martin Mull ins. U. S. A., Commanding at Los Pinos, N.
M.. reports that, to present date, 2019 Navajos have arrived at
that post, en route to Fort Sumner, and that there are 1445 now
at the i ost, awaiting transportation.

24. < ':.; tain Ja »e.s H. W hillock, with twenty-one men of his compa-
ny. ' F." 5th Infantry. Cal. Vol s, left camp on the Miembres, N.
M.. on the 21th day of February, on a scuut after Apache Indi-
ans. At about 5 o'clock, P. M.. on the 25th. he came up to a
party of nineteen Indians; attacked and killed thirteen of them
and wounded the others, and captured one Indian pony. The
command returned to camp on the 29th, without the slightest
act i lent of any kind.

Feb'y 25. Three Indian women escaped from the detachment commanded
by Lieut. W. B. Smith, Jst Infantry. Cal. Vol's, while en route
from Fort Union to the Bosque Kedondo.

Feb'y 28. Cant. A. B. Carey reports that there are 2500 Navajos at Fort
Canhy, awaiting transportation to the Bosque Kedondo.

6

March 4. 2138 Navajos were this day forwarded from Fort Canby to the
Bosque Redondo, having in tIReir possession 473 horses and 3000
slice:]). 126 Indians died at Fort Canby, between the 20th of Feb-
ruary and March 4th.

March 7. Lieut. Hodt, 1st Cavalry, N. M. Vol's, with 25 enlisted men, left
Fort Canby on a scout, in sefJk'rch of Indians who ha. I stolen 18
horses and mules from Caballo Prieto, Chief, who had surren-
dered. The thieves, -1 in number, were captured near Zufii, and
11 head of the stock recovered.

March 8. Capt. Quirino Maes, from Conejos, Colorado Territory, with an
Independent Company of 67 men, arrived at Pueblo Colorado.
This Company had been operating against the Navajos since the
1st of January, 1864, and had killed 2o Indians and captured 4.
Five horses were taken from the Indians.

March 11. Capt. Joseph Berney arrivedjat Fort Sumner with 14o0 Navajo
prisoners. Ten Indians died on the road from Los Pinos.

March 18. Eight mounted-Indians made an attack upon a government herd
at Cow Spi'ings, New Mexico, and drove off 68 mules, 4 govern-
ment and 2 private horses. The Indians were pursued by Lieut.
H. II. Si',-,-, ns, 5th Cal. Inf., with 9 men, for a considerable dis-
tance, but they escaped with the stock.

March 18. Major Edward B. Willis, 1st Inf., Cal. Vol's, with 40 enlisted

men and 14 citizens, fell in with a party of Apaches near the San
Francisco River, Arizona; killed 5 Indians and lost one man,
Private Fisher, of Company " D," 1st Caw, Cal. Vols.

March 27. Fifty-five Navajos surrendered at Fort Canby, New Mexico, 8
of whom diei. They had 02 head of sheep and goats.

March 2'.'. Eighty-six Navajos arrived at Los Pinos, N. M., en route to
Fort Sumner, having with them 0 horses and 2 mules.

March. The Apache Indians attacked Mr. Goodhue and 4 other person*,
between the Hasiampa and Granite Creek. Goodhue, was killed.
The men with him succeeded in driving the Indians off The
Indians also attacked a train of wagons near Weaver. Arizona,
and mortally wounded a Mr. Rykman and a Mexican. Another
of the party was slightly wounded. The Indians took all the
stock and plundered the wagons.

April :■!. Eighty-six Navajos surrendered at Fort Canby. two of whom
died. These Indians have 120 sheep and goats and 6 horses.

April 5. Capt. Francis McCabe, 1st Caw, N. M. Vol's, arrived at Los Pi-
nos, N. M., bringing 720 Navajo Indians.

April 7. Captain James II. W hillock, 5th Inf., Cal. Vol's, with a command
consisting of 20 enlisted men of Company "F." and 20 enlisted
men of Company "I," under Lieut. Burkeit, and 10 enlisted men
of Company ••('." 1st Caw, Cal. Vol's, attacked about 2-3) Indi-
an* near Mount Grey, or Sierra Bonita, Arizona, and after a spir-
ito i fight of over one hour, routed the Indians, killing 21 of thera
left on the ground, and wounding a large number. -!•"> head of
horses and mules were captured from the Indians, and all their
provisions and camp equipage destroyed.

April 10. Seventy-eight Navajos surrendered at Fort Canby, having in
their possession 1 horse and 1.30 head of sheep and goats.

April 11. Major Edward />. Willis, Commanding Fort Whipple, Arizona,

reports that Colonel King S. II' '..•//. with his party, surprised

an Indian Kancheria. killing 14 Indians, who were left on the
ground, and wounding others who es aped. A small party of
California Volunteers, who were sent with Colonel Woolsey, be-
have 1 well — Privates Beach and Holman, of Company "F," kill-
ing 5 of the Indians.

April. Lieut. Martin Quirt /ana. 1st Cavalry. New Mexican Volunteers,
reports that while en route from Moqui to Fort Canby. 4 Indians
delivered themselves tip to his command.

April 24. One hundred and nine Navajos surrendered themselves at Fort
Gnnby, between April 18th and April 24th. These Indians had
159 head of horses and 230 head of sheep and goats.

May 1. Three hum! re -1 and ninety-two Navajos surrendered themselves
at Fori Can by, since last report, making the total number on
hand at that post, 623. They have, altogether, 820 head of horses
and 650 head of sh<

.May 1. Forty-two Mcscalero A] aches, including Ojo Blanco, escaped
from the Indian Reservation at Fort Sumner, and returned to
own country.*

May 3. Lieut, lluru II. Stevens, 5th Infantry, Cal. Vol's, with a com-
mand of 54 men. California Volunteers, while on the march from
Fort Curamingsto Fort Howie, Arizona, was attacked in Doubtful
Canon, near Steen s Peak, by about 100 Apache Indians. The tight
la-U' 1 for nearly two hours, and resulted in the killing of 10 Apa-
ches, who were left on the ground, and wounding about 20.

The troops lost, in this affair, 1 man missing and 5 wounded, 1
mort-lly. 1 horse killed and 1 wounded.

May 9. Captain Charles P. Marion reports that, while on a scout near

Znfii. 500 Navajos surrendered themselves to his command.

These Indians had in their possession 1000 horses and over 5000

sheep and goats.
May II. The Apache Indians run off two horses from the ranch of Mr,

Stipc.h. a farmer on the Rio Bonito. They were pursued by 2d

Lieut. S. '.. S>, frfer and 13 men of company "A," 1st Cavalrv,

N. M. Vol's, but wen: not overtaken.
May 13. Seven hundred and seventy-seven Navajo Indians arrived at

Fort Sumner this day.

May 2-3. Lieut. Colonel Nelson H. Duels. Asst. Inspector General IT. S.
A., with Captain T. T. Tidball, 5th Infantry. Cal. Vol's, 2 com-
missioned officers and 102 enlisted men, Cavalry and Infantry,
started from Fort Bowie on a scout after Indians. On the 25th
inst. surprise! a Rancheria and killed one Indian. Later the
s:ime day. killed one Indian and captured one.

May 2n. On the 26th inst. came upon a Rancheria, killed one Indian and
royed several acres of corn. In this skirmish 1st Sergeant
('/f:sliti:i Foster, of corn' any " Iv." 5th Inf., Cal. Vol's, was se-
verely wounded. On the same day 1 woman and 2 Indian chil-
dren were captured. On the 28th captured 5 women and 2 chil-
dren.

May 29. On the 29th inst. the command surprised a Rancheria and killed
36. wounded 4 and, took 1 prisoners. Captured $560 in gold coin,
1 Sharp's carbine. 1 Colts revolver, 1 shot-gun, 1 saddle, 1000
pounds of mescal, and a lot of horse equipments, powder, powder-
horns. &c. Sergeant Charles Brown, of company "K," 5th Inf.,
Cal. Vol's, is mentioned in Capt. Tat&all's report, for his zeal and
energy in this scout.

May 29. Captain George A. Burketi, with 33 enlisted men of company "I."
5th Inf., Ca!. Vol's, surprised an Indian Rancheria on the Rio de
Mescal, and killed 13. wounded 13 and took 3 prisoners. Captur-
ed 1 mule, 3 horses. 1 Sharp's carbine. 1 saddle and saddle-bags,
1 ton of mescal and a small quantity of powder. The command
destroyed some fields of corn and wheat. A portion of the mes-
cal was kept to feed the prisoners: the balance was destroyed.

•This pari rutd tu the Reservation on the 16tn of ■September. Shortly

uiierwiircl:, Ojo Blanco died

June 3. Five hundred and fifty Navajos arrived at Los Pino? this day,
who had 190 horses and 294 sheep and goats. These Indians, with
209 others, were forwarded to Port Sumner.

June 3. The Apache Indians attacked a party of five miners, near Fort
Whipple, Arizona, and wounded every man of the party.

June 7. Capt. Julius C. Shaw, 1st Cav., N. M. Vol's, with his command,
attacked a Rancheria near Apache Spring. Two Indians were
mortally wounded.

June 11. Four Apaches attacked a party of soldiers under Capt. T. T. Tii-
bail, near San Pedro Crossing, but did not succeed in doing any
damage. The troops wounded one of the Indians.

June 20. Major Edward B. Willis, 1st Inf.. Cal. Vol's, reports that a de-
tachment under his command attacked a party of Apache Indi-
ans, near Salinas River, Arizona, and killed -4 of them.

June 20. The express escort between Camp Goodwin ana Fort Bowie was
attacked by a party of Indians, while crossing the Chiricahui
Mountains. The Indians were whipped off by the escort. Seve-
ral Indians reported wounded. 4 burros were taken from the
Indians.

June. Captain Henry M. Benson, 1st Inf., Cal. Vol's, left Fort "Whip-

ple, A. T., with his company, "F." 1st Cai. Inf., on a scout after
Indians. Five Indians were killed and two woun lei by this
command, and large quantities of corn and beans destroyed.

June. Captain Albert H. Pfeiffer, 1st Cavalry, New Mexican Volun-

teers, with one Lieutenant and 64 enlisted men, attacked a band
of Indians near the Colorado Chiquito, Arizona, and. in a run-
ning fight of eight miles, killed 5 and wounded 7 of them.

After the tight was over, two Indians came into camp with sis;ns
of peace; but in a moment fired their guns, severely wounding
Capt. Pfeiffer and Private Pedro Rael. The Indians were in-
stantly killed. When the shots were fired, a large party of Indi-
ans came running towards the camp. A volley was fired into
them, when they scattered in all directions. This volley wound-
ed several.

June 28. Captain James H. Whitlock, Commanding Camp Miembres. re-
ports-that he left the post on the 21st instant, on a scout after
Indians. On the 22d came upon a party of 3 Indians, two of
whom were killed and the other captured.

July 10. Lieut. Antonio Abeyi 'a, 1st Cavalry. N. M. Vol's, while en route
from Fort Wingate to Los Pinos, N. M., with 26 Navajo and 7
Apache Indian prisoners, came upon a party of Navajos at Fish
Spring, numbering 375, coming in to surrender themselves and
go to the Reservation. These Indians had, in their possession. 300
horses. 16 mules, 1085 sheep and 350 goats. This party was turned
over to the Commanding Officer at Los Pinos.

July. Captain Saturnino Baca., 1st Cav., N. M. Vol's, with 53 enlisted

men, left Fort Canny on the 9th instant, on a scout after Indians.
Marched to the Little Colorado River. He returned to Fort Can-
by on the 21st inst. On this srout 6 Indians were killed and 6
taken prisoners. Two horses and two mules captured and large
quantities of corn, wheat, beans, &c, destroyed.

Aug. 1. Captain T. T. Tidball, 5th Infantry, Cal. Vol's, returned from a
scout of 23 days. He reports that he saw but few Indians, and
killed but one — an Apache chief called " Old Plume."

Aug. 1. Four Mexican citizens are reported as having been killed by the
Apache Indians, at the Conchas.

Aug. 1. Twelve hundred and nine Navajos an 1 12 Apaches left Los Pi-
nos, N. M., for the To-que Redondo. These Indians had in their
possession 357 horses, 19 mules and 2005 sheep and goats.

Aug. 3. A hand of Apache Indians, having captives, sheep, horses, "bur-
ros and cattle, were discovered near Alamo Gordo, by " D'lga-
di'o Chiquito" Navajo Chief, who sent a messenger to Fort
Sumner, to inform the Commanding Officer of the fact. Thirty-
five men of the California Cavalry were sent in pursuit; also, a
strong party of Navajos, from the Reservation. In the mean-
time Defgitdito's party attacked the Apaches and were defeated,
with a loss of one killed and three wounded ; amongst the latter,
Delgadito himself. The party of Navajos from the post came
upon, the Apaches and took from them 500 sheep and 18 burros.

Aug. 6. Mr. Charles G. Parker's train, en route to Chihuahua, Mexico,
was attacked by the Mescalero Apaches, twenty miles below the
Gallinas Mountains. The Indians drove off about 50 mules.
They were followed by the wagon-master and some teamsters, but
succeeded in driving off the animals. Two men were severely
wounded.

Aug. 7. Sergeant B. F. Fergusson, of company " E," 5th Inf., Cal. Vol's,
with a party of men, attacked 15 Apaches who were seen ap-
proaching the camp on the Rio Carlos, and killed 5 of them.

August. The command which left Fort Cummings on the 5th day of Au-
gust, on a scout to Lake Guzman, killed one Indian near the
Florida Mountains. Very few Indians were seen, they having
evidently deserted the country on the approach of the troops, who,
on this scout, inarched 12)0 miles.

Aug. 13. Lieut. Henry Becker. 1st Cav., N. M. Vol's, left Fort Canby, N.
M.. witli 92 Indian prisoners and 890 head of sheep. On the route
to Los Pinos, he was joined by 151 Indians, having in their pos-
session 700 sheep and 85 horses. Th'- Indians and stock were
turned over to the Commanding Officer at Los Pinos.

August. Colonel King S. Wo'olsey reports that while on a scout after Indi-
ans, near the Rio Prieto, one of his men. named J. W. Beauchamp,
was waylaid and killed by the Apache Indians.

August. Major Thomas ,/. Blakcney, 1st Cavalry, Cal. Vol's, on a scout of
30 days after Apache Indians, killed 10 and captured 2 Indians,
and destroyed 29 acres of corn and large quantities of pumpkins,
beans, ecc.

August. Captain Henry A. Green. 1st Infantry, Cal. Vol's, on a scout af-
ter Indians, from Fort McRae. N. M., killed 5 Indians and cap-
ture 1 6. Nineteen head of beef cattle were recovered from the
Indians.

August. Captain John S. Thayer, 5th Infantry, Cal. Vol's, left Fort
Goo 1 win. A. T., with his company, on a scout after Indians,
On the 4th day out. the company destroyed about 70 acres of cornj
also several small fiel Is of beans and pumpkins. On the 6th
day came upon a party of Indians ; wounded several and cap-
tured one. who was afterwards shot while attempting to escape
A Mexican captive was rescued from these Indians. On the 8tlt
da^v out. attacked a party of Indians and killed 6 and wounded 2.

Aug. 25. Captain Francis McCabe. 1st Cav., N. M. Vol's, reports that while
on a scout a.fter Indians in the Sacramento Mountains, he de-
tached a party under Lieut. Henry \V. Gilbert, of the same regi-
ment, to follow the trail of the Indians. Lieut. Gilbert took with
him 29 men. The party, although warned by the guide, marched
in a body directly into an ambush, when Lieut. Gilbert was killed
at the first fire. The guide, Sa> dies, and Private Ma. Sandoval
were killed, and three men wounded. One Apache killed and 5
wounded. This command were leading their horses when the
attack was made. The men, after the fall of their officer, shame-
fully abandoned their horses. The Indians got the most of the
horses and equipments.

10

Sept. 10. Lieut. Patrick He.aly, 1st Inf., N. M. Vol's, with a detachment
of li> men, while in pursuit of Indians, entered the town of Ca-
nada de A.lamosa, X. M., where 5 Indians were captured. One
of the Indians afterwards made his escape.

Sept. 25. Captain William Ayres, 1st Inf., N. M. Vol's, learning that i
party of Indians were at Canada de Alamosa, started in pursuit
of them, and succeeded in capturing 1 man, 4 women and 1 child.
The others made their escape to the mountains.

Oct. 20. A band of Navajo Indians attacked Mr. Hurting' s train on tho
Colorado Chiquito, and succeeded in driving off 700 or 800 head
of sheep, the property of Captain Joseph P. Hargrave.

Nov. 6. Some Indians are said to have run off 500 sheep from the head-
waters of the Rio Puerco. belonging to Don Inez Perea.

Nov. 8. On the 8th of November, some Navajos and Apaches from the
west, run oft' 8000 bead of sheep, belonging to Don Jose Pino y
Vaca, four miles from Limitar, N. M., and killed four pasiores,
who bad the sheep in charge. Their names were Antonio Galle-
gos, Romalito Peralta, Francisco Capillo and Leuovio Sarcilia.
Instructions were sent to Major Eaton, Commanding at Fort
Wingate, to cross the country to the liito Quemado, and anduavor
to cut the trail of the Indians.

Nov. 9. A Navajo Indian found lurking near the government herd
at Fort Sumner, was arrested by the herd guard, and, in attempt-
ing to make his escape, was killed.

Nov. 25. Colonel Christopher Carson, 1st Cavalry. New Mexican Volun-
teers, with a command consisting of 14 commissioned officers,
321 enlisted men and 75 Indians — Apaches and Utes — attacked a
Kioway village of about 150 lodges, neir the Adobe Fort, on the
Canadian River, in Texas; and, after a severe tight, compelled
the Indians to retreat, with a loss of 60, killed and wounded. Tho
village was then destroyed. The engagement commenced at 8 1-2
A. M., and lasted, without intermission, until sunset.

In this fight, Privates John O' Don n ell and John Sullivan, of
company "M," 1st Cav., Cal. Vol's, were killed, and Corporal

. N. Newman, Privates Thomas Briggs, J. Jameson, Ma pes,

Jasper Win ant, J. Horsley. of company " B," and Holygrafer
of company "G," 1st Cav., Cal. Vol's, Antonio Dur'o and Anto-
nio Sanches, of company '• M," and H. Romero, of company " I,"
1st Cav., N. M. Vol's, were wounded. Four Utes wounded.

Col. Carson, in bis report, mentions the following ofticers as
deserving the highest praise: — Major McCleave, Capt. Fritz and
Lieut. Heath, of the 1st Cav., Cal. Vol's, Capt's Deus and Berney,
1st Cav.. N. M. Vol's, Lieut, Pettis, 1st Inf., Cal. Vol's. Lieut.
Edgar, 1st Cav., N. M. Vol's, and Ass't Surgeon <reo. S. (Jourt-
right, IT. S. Vol's.

The command destroyed one hundred and fifty lodges of the
best manufacture, a large amount of dried meats, berries, buffalo
robes, powder, cooking utensils. &c.; also, a buggy and spring
wagon, the property of " Sien'ito," or " Littlt Mountain," the
Kioway Chief.

Nov. 27. An Apache Indian, in attempting to escape from Capt, Thomp-
son's company. 1st Cav., N. M. Vol's, en route to Fort Whipple,
was killed by the guard.

Nov. 27. Colonel Oscar M. Brown, 1st Cavalry. Cal. Vol's, with 100 man,
returned from a scout to the Apache country. Four squaws
were captured by Colonel Brown's command. Although this
scout, of nearly sixty days, was unsuccessful, it was one of the
hardest of the year.

Dec. 2. One thousand and twenty Navajo Indians, having in their pos-
session 3500 sheep and goats, 400 horses and 30 mules, arrived at
Fort Sumner.

11

Dec. Major E. \V. Eaton, 1st Cav., N. M. Vol'?, on a scout after Indi-

a-is, came upon their camp near Red River ; killed one Indian
and took two prisoners, and recovered 175 sheep, 1 horse and 1
burro. 'I" ere the Indians who helped to run off sheep from

Limirar, on the 8th November.

Dec. 15. Captain All n L. And m, 5th U. S. Infantry, with a small party
of mon. attacked an Indian Rancheria near tne Weaver Minus,
Arizona, killed '■'< ami wounded 3 Apache Indians.

Dec. 15. Captain J . 1st Cav., N. M. Vol's, with a party of

12 enlisted men; attacked an Apache Rancheria near Weaver,
Arizona, and killed 11 and wounded 4.

Dee. 24. Lieut. Paul Dowlhn, I . Cavalry, N. M. Vol's, reports that on his
return trip from Fori Whipple, Arizona, the Navajo Indians
run off 14 of his mule-.

Dde.. 25. A nand of A] ache I li n 8 madean attack on the town of Rincon,
near For M . New Mexico; took a Mexican boy prisoner

and drove off 9 head of cattle. A party was started in pursuit
and succee.de 1 in recovering 3 head of cattle. The Mexican boy's
body was found, lance 1 in several places.

Dec. 20. Captain William Brady, 1st Cav., N. M. Vol's, reports that he
found i bod . Floras, the guide, near the Tuleroso

Saw Mill. Whether he had been killed by Indians or by others,
is not certain.

Dee. 31. Lieut. Samuel L. Burr, with company " F," 5th U. S. Infantry,
and a detachment of 1st Cav., N. M. Vol's, surprised an Indian
earn;), near Sycamore Springs, Arizona; killed 4 Indians and
captured 2 head of cattle.

Rk.capi.tula.tiox of a Census of the Navajo Indians on the Reservation,
ai the Bosque Redondo, New Mexico, on the 31st day of December, 18t>4,
their stock. &i\ Taken by Captain Francis McCabe, 1st Cavalry, New

Mexican Volunteers.

No. of Lodges 1,276

No. of Families, 1.782

No. of Males, from 50 to 80 years of age 300

No. of Males, from 18 to 50 years of age, 2,129

No. of Males, from 5 to 18 vears of age, 1,525

No. of Male Infants 134

No. of Females, from 50 to 80 years of age, 373

No. of Females, from 18 to 50 years of age 2,187

No. of Females, from 5 to 18 vears of age, 1.418

No. of Female Infants '. 288

Total population 8,354

No. of Horses 3,038

No. of Mules 143

No. of Sheen 6,962

No. of Goats, 2,757

No. of Looms, 630

Average number of persons to each family, is near 5

Horses " " " 2

Sheep " •• '; 4

12
AGGREGATES.

dumber of A]»aehe Indians at the Bosque Redondo Reservation, on the 31st
day of December, 1864.

Mescalero Apaches.

Men U3

Women, 153

Children 139

Total 405

Giu a Apachbs.

Men, &

Women, 5

Children, 10

Total, 20

Gila Apaohes en route to the Reservation.

Men 8

Women 6

Total, 14

Making the total number of captive Indians, as follows:
Number of Indian captives on the Reservation on

the 31st of December, 1863, 703

Number who were captured and who surrendered

themselves during the year 1864, 8,090

Total, 8,793

During the year 1864, the few troops serving within the Department of
New Mexico, were obliged to undergo extraordinary labors, privations and
hardships, in following the line of their duty. Early in the year, while the
country was still covered with snow, their marcbes in pursuit of Navajo
Indians, in continuation of the campaign begun in the summer of 1863 — the
frequent combats with bands of that tribe, not only in the Navajo country,
but in. the open plains to the east of the Rio Grande, exhibited courage, self-
denial, perseverance, ability and the will to encounter and to endure pro-
tracted hardships, on the part of both officers and men, which would be very
creditable to any troops in the army.

It was often their lot to be compelled, from the nature of the country and.
sometimes, from limited means of transportation, to carry their blankets and
provisions on their backs, and to struggle for davs through deep snows, over
mountains — through forests — and down through the deep mazes of the most
wonderful canon* in the worl 1 — in pursuit of a wily and active enemy, who
was familiar with every rod of that distant and, in many places, hitherto.
considered inaccessible region.

It was their lot to feel that, even though they were successful in their efforts,
far beyond the success which had attended the labors of others who had prece-
ded themin campaigns against these Indians, still they would win none of that
eclat which those receive for, perhaps, no harder service on oilier fields. It
was their lotto shew fidelity, and integrity, and earnestness in their labors
for the public good — prompted to this course, not by the expectation of ap-
plause or advancement — but by a feeling honestly to discharge their duty,
l hough no approving eye witnessed their labors or their sufferings, and they
bad no credit save that shown in the mirror of a clear conscience, or by the
approval of their own hearts. The results which followed such labors will
be considered as remarkable in the annals of Indian watfare.

The Navajos soon found that they had no place of security from such
determined adversaries; and, being pressed on every hand by unexampled
rigor, the spirit of the tribe was soon broken. Many were captured, and

13

more voluntarily surrendered ; when, in bands of from fifty to one and two
thousand, they commenced their pilgrimage to the Bosque Redondo, a place
selected for them by the Government, and situated upon the open plains east
of the Rio Grande, and move than four hundred miles from their native
valleys and mountains. The exodus of this whole people — men, women,
ami children, with their flocks and herds — leaving forever the land of
their fathers, was an interesting but a touching sight.

Then came the operations of the troops against the Apaches of Arizona.
To those acquainted with the difficulties of campaigning in that distant
ry — formidable against the movement and supply of troops in every
wav in which a country can be formidable, whether considered on account
of its deserts, its rugged and sterile mountains, its frequent and often im-
passable defiles, and. in widely extended regions, the scarcity of water and
grass — the wonder will be that the troops were ever able to overtake the In-
dians at all. Although the results of operations in that Territory were not
so great as hoped for. yet they were creditable, and were won at an expense
of toil and privation of which any description could give but a faint idea to
one who had never traversed this very singular country. The marches of
the troops were long, and sometimes repaid by but poor results. For exam-
ple: on one expedition, under one of our most distinguished officers, the
tro > - marched 1200 miles, and actually killed but one Indian. Oftentimes
lo ig scouts would be made, and not an Indian, or even the track of one,
wool 1 he discovered. Yet. the movements of the troops in every direction
through the countrv o\' the Arizona Apaches, and a few partial encounters
with them, attended by groat gooJ fortune, gave us the morale over them,
until now thev are inclined to flee at the sight of our armed parties, and
scatter in all directions, and not to stand upon hill-tops and crags and jeer
at our men bv insulting cries and gestures, as they did when we first began
war upon them. It is hoped that in a short time they too will be sufficiently
subdued to surrender and go upon a Reservation.

While all this was doing, the Indians of the plains commenced their at-
tacks upon the trains of the Government and of citizens coming out with
supplies. This required that troops should be sent out to help these trains
past the points of danger. Once this was clone, and the most of the trains
secure, an m was formed to punish even these Indians for their con-

duct. The Kioways had been the most hostile, and had committed some of
the most atrocious of the murders. It so happened that in Colonel Carson's
brilliant affair with the Comanches and Kioways, on the 25th of November,
the Kiowa ed the most loss, and had their beautiful village of 150

lodges, together with all their property and reserve of food, entirely de-
stroyed.

Xot oril.- have the troops thus followed and punished the Indians, but
they hare opened new roads, repaired others which had become destroyed
by floo.'ls. have built posts, guarded trains through the interior of Arizona
and New Mexico, and conducted the thousands of captive Indians from the
ol 1 Navajo countrv to the Reservation : and not only guarded them there.
bit have directed their labors in opening up what will be one of the most
magnificent farms in the United States.

The General Commanding the Department takes great pleasure in being
able to congratulate tic troops on such a record. The increased security of
life and property throughout this widely extended Department, attests the
Lcial results which spring from these efforts. The prosperity of New
Mexico and Arizona will he sure to follow. So it must ever bo a source of
gratification and pride to every officer and soldier engaged in this great la-
t>or. to know that the \ eople for whom he has toiled, are getting to be more
secure in their lives, and Lo be better off in their worldly condition.

All this has been done quietly and without ostentation, on the part of the
-. In the great events which have marked the struggle of our coun-
try to preserve intact the union of all the States, it was not expected that
such labors would receive the attention of the General Government. But
the fact that two great States will yel date their rise, progress, and the com-

14

ni'iit of their prosperity, from this subjugation of hostile Irulinus,
will always be most gratifying to remember, by those who so nobly did the

work.

!y oommauri of Bkkjadikr Genkp.aj. Caklktoji :

Assistant Adjutant Gtnertd

RECAP] TULAT rCXTST.

MONTH.

TAKEN FROM INDIA]

<S TAKEN BY INDIANS.

\ KILLED AND W00NDED.

n

p» s!
— m

g n |
z % g

to

18G4.

«2

o

n

1 4

9 to

m

o

w

6
O

(Joni'd
« (ffieers.

Enlisted

Men.

Ditizens.

[ndians

3>

T3

■V

c
o

1
M

CD

'a

e

3
0

a

A
1

T3
O

C
o

s

o
c

January 3.
5.
6.
11.
12.

14.
15.

24.

26.

February 24.
March 4.

7.
" 8.
" 18.

" 27.

April 3.

" 10.
, " 11.
! " 24.
May 1.

'• 3.

" 9.

" 11.

" 25.

" 29.
June 3.

" 11.

" 20.

" 28.
July 10.
August 1.

I " 3.
" 6.
" 7.
" 13.

20

11

50

i

40
1

3 1
1

25

...

62

25

i

I

'"

1

1

i

...1

200 1

23
19
7
20
13

5

1

...I

1

4

6

|

1

473

11

5

1 ..

3,000

j 1

18

1

2 i

6

68

1

5

1.

62

2

2

120
150

6

30

1

15 ...

21

14

230

650

159

320

2

5

10

20

5,000

1,000

2

1

....

I

1

38
13

4
13

3

1

1

5

I

2
4
5
7
2
2
6
1

1

5

2

12

4

. .1

1

, .1

1

1

1

1,435

302

| i

4

1

500

1 1

50

I

2

1

I

5

700

85

1

1
10

7
1

ii

ii

19

1

1

" 25.
iOctober 20.

5
5

1

3

2

75!)

;

8.

4

9.
25.
27.
iDccember.

15.
24.
25

1

30

1

1

14

3

9

30

175

1

1 ..

j

7

14

0

1
1

29

4
363

6

23

*

13

140

' Total,

12.284

2,472

35 31

18 4,250 26 154 32

1

o

8,090

_

Official :

//, W&Z

Aide-de-Catnp.

A Plea for New Mexico.

f

Tlic following- "Plea for New Mexico" appeared in the Presby-
terian Banner in 1867, the facts having been gathered by Key.
Mr. Mao Farland, Missionary of the Presbyterian Church at
Santa Pe.

Twenty years ago, God in his providence, over-ruled the hor-
rors of war to bring the Territories of New Mexico and Arizona,
not only under the Government of the United States, but to
become a part of our country ; thus bringing the inhabitants to
the doors of the church, saying — if we rightly understand the
voice of Providence — civilize and christianize these degraded
masses. What has the Church done for these wretched people
during these twenty years ? The Church and business men
know far more about any foreign country on the earth than they
do about New Mexico. There is greater need to send mission-
aries here than to Siam or any other foreign heathen country.
The people of New Mexico and Arizona are one in every essen-
tial respect. Those familiar with American history know that
the first Europeans who trod the soil of New Mexico, were three
(Spaniards about the year 1530. These were Alvae Nunez
Cabbza De Baca, Alonzo Del Castillo Maldonado, and An-
dreas Doeantes. The head of this little party was Baca.
Many of the large, most intelligent, and influential families now
in New Mexico, can trace their lineage directly to him. These
three men had become separated from the company that set out
from Spain to make explorations and conquests north of the
Gulf of Mexico. They wandered through Texas, came into New
Mexico and in the month of May/1536, drew near the Pacific Ocean,
at the village of San Miguel in Sonora, and finally reached the
City of Mexico. Tradition says that their narrative of this
country, when they returned to Spain, excited such an interest
that many families left their homes and journeyed until New
Mexico was reached and first settled.

The first emigrants to this land, wrested from the hands and
sway of the Montezumas, left behind them all the comforts and

%

securities of their parent homes. They traversed near two thou-
sand miles through the most wild, picturesque, and variegated
countries in all North America, until they reached the present
capital of this Territory, which they endowed with the name of
Santa Fe, or Holy Faith. They had to contend with the most
savage Indians. Besides these, they found Indians similar in
color and features to the savage, but widely different in their
habits and character. These are the Pueblo Indians, who live in
towns. They are a sedate, quiet, inoffensive, and generally an
honest people. They are somewhat industrious in field and
fruit labors. They were found by the Spaniards idolaters, wor-
shipping the sun. They were converted by force to the forms of
Roman Catholicism, and though they conform to the ceremonies
of that faith, yet it is well known that they still cherish in heart
an affectionate, a vague and sorrowing remembrance, of the tra-
ditions of the religion of their fathers, and turn to Montezuma,
individualized in their supersitions imagination, as the friend and
instructor, if not the Saviour of their race. To this people can
be traced, from high antiquity, much knowledge of the arts most
useful to mankind. With many of their tribes — if not with all
— the Gaelic dialect is unmistakably manifested, as some claim,
showing their origin. Their history, and the history of many of
their arts, are lost doubtless forever.

The city of Santa Fe is erected upon the very spot where
smoulder in the dust of ages, what appeared as the ruins of one of
the most important seats of antique life and power. Public doc-
uments on record in Santa Fe, refer to the settlement of the
place, and country as early as 1562 and 1563. But to trace their
history accurately is not the juesent purpose.

Isolated from the civilized world, with Roman Catholicism as
their religion, the first settlers imbibed much from their heathen
Pueblo Indian neighbors. Much, very much, of that mongrel,
mixture of heathenish ceremonies and Catholicism, holds
supreme sway among the great mass of the native inhabitants at
this time. We will give in another article a few specimens of
their ceremonies, from different points in this Territory, which
they call worshipping the true and living God, that all may de-
termine for themselves, whether or no we have heathen in our
own land at the door of the Church.

Twenty years ago, when this Territory was ceded to the United
States, a class of Americans was thrown among this mixed peo-

pie, that did not — to say the least — elevate much their moral con-
dition. What they learned from the Americans, they repaid with
double interest, in bringing them down to a common level. In
almost every part, of the Territory, are found more or fewer
Americans. As most of these have come and remain for gain,
they fulfill their mission well. The population of New Mexico
is said to he over one hundred thousand. The condition of this
great number of immortal souls hastening to the judgment seat
of Christ, from such a Christian land as ours, is a most painful
one. Moral and intellectual ignorance and supersition — yea,
heathenish idolatry — hold the great mass of them in the lowest
degradation.

That they are ready to receive Christ's Gospel is evident from
many considerations, which will be duly noticed.

THE MORAL CONDITION OF THE PEOPLE.

In the former article, some account was given of the first in-
habitants and settlement of this Territory. As stated, the Span-
iards found here the Pueblo Indians, whom they compelled to
adopt the ceremonies of the Roman Cath'olic religion. After en-
joying the benefits and instructions of that religion for over three
centuries, how much better are they to-day ? So far as industry,
quiet and order among them, they are no better than they were
before.

Besides these peaceable and industrious Indians, who live by
farming and manufacturing, the Territory contains the following
savage tribes : ''Three bands of Apaches, who number about
two thousand five hundred persons. The Navijoes are supposed
to number twelve thousand. Of these some eight thousand were
compelled to come and give themselves up to our officers and
soldiers at Fort Wingate and Fort Canby." These are now fed
and safely guarded by our soldiers on a reservation in the South-
east part of the Territory, called the Bosque Redoudo. "There
are also three bands of Utes who are supposed to number two
thousand four hundred. Total number of savage Indians who
roam in New Mexico, sixteen thousand nine hundred, besides
several thousand Camanches who are frequently upon our South-
eastern border." On the Gila River, Dr. M. Steck, former In-
dian Agent, had a reservation for the Gila Apaches, who were
doing well. But during the rebellion they were driven from

there by the Texans, and afterwards the Chief was killed. Since
that time these Indians have been hostile, hut have always ex-
pressed a desire for peace with the whites, and a wish to return
to their reservation. Now that Congress has transferred the
management of the Indians of our Western Country from the
Interior to the War Department, hopes are confidently enter-
tained, that they soon Avill he all gathered into reservations out-
side of the settlements. When this is done, the country can
have some assurance that the Western Territories will he free
from their horrid and lately numerous barbarisms.

It is claimed that this Territory now contains over one hun-
dred thousand inhabitants. This includes the Pueblo Indians,
but excludes all the savage tribes. The great mass of the people
are Mexicans. Among these are many Americans, who are en-
gaged in business in almost every part of the Territory. Many of
these, have married Mexican wives and settled permanently.

According to the census of 1800, this Territory then contained
a population of ninety-three thousand five hundred and sixteen
persons. Now it is claimed that there are over one hundred and
twenty thousand inhabitants. Of the former number there were
returned fifty-seven thousand two hundred and thirty-three per-
sons who could not read and write. Thus almost two-thirds of
the entire population are in utter ignorance of the simplest at-
tainments of an intellectual education. The moral darkness is
even more deplorable. The Legislature that adjourned a few
weeks since, had before them a bill for a Common School Law,
the most simple and feasible to meet the present wants and con-
dition of the people ; but amendments were incorporated which
make it worth nothing. Similar efforts have heretofore been
made, but the people will not even attempt to inaugurate free
schools, to he sustained by taxation. At one time in Santa Fe,
the Mexican portion of the people, rose as one man, and drove
the officer to his house, when he attempted to collect the school
tax, saying, "We have to give so much to the Priests to sup-
port the church ; if we must be taxed to support schools, we will
have nothing left to live on and support our families." Thus
they reasoned and decided to leave their children to grow Up in
the same ignorance as they themselves enjoy.

With few schools, and these under the control of the priests —
except two lately established Protestant schools — and no Bibles
circulated, or Bible truths taught, the people are in the lowest
state of moral ignorance and gross supersition. The Americans

thus intermarried generally desire the Bible and the Gospel
preached among them, also Protestant schools for their children,
All that (lie masses know about religion, or religious morals, con-
consists in faithfully performing the outward ceremonies of their
religion, and giving beyond their means for its support.

This whole people are in a state of readiness to be bene-
fited by the Gospel and Christian schools. Neither of these can
now be sustained without large expenditure of aid from outside
the Territory. In every important town are a number of Ameri-
cans engaged in business. Many have families. All of these
most generally desire schools for their children, and not a few in
every place the Gospel preached. Uniting the two, with a little
aid for the first year or two, many have said : "After that we
will be able to support ourselves." Said the wife of an American,
who has lived in the Territory some sixteen years, to the writer a
few days ago : "I never saw a Bible until after we were married,
when the small one placed in my husband's trunk by his mother,
when he left home eighteen years ago, came into my hands.
How rejoiced I was on reading it. For years, after service in the
Catholic chapel, my mind always felt a want of something sub=
stantial and real. The pictures of the Saints around the walls,
and the images, and the services of worship, could not meet this
want. But. in the Bible my soul found the precious Saviour.
Now I rejoice in him as my Redeemer." The Saviour only
knows how many others, with the same feelings, there are among
this wretched people.

Mr. Mac Faeland's labors in New Mexico have not been un-
availing. The following letter from Rev. Mr. Sohultz, Post
Chaplain at Fort Craig, gives the

PRESENT CONDITION OF AFFAIRS IN THE INFANT CHURCH
AT SANTA FE.

Fort Craig, New Mexico, July 14, 1868.

Messrs. Editors — The telegraph has reached Santa Fe, where
the New Jlexican issued its first daily, July 9th, with telegrams
of that date from Now York. These reached us here on the 12th/
A daily mail also is inaugurated this month, down the Rio
Grande to Franklin, Texas, opposite El Paso, Mexico, and at the
junction of the southern route to the Pacific. The railroad, too,
is steadily approaching the Rio Grande. So the channels of in-
tercourse and immigration are widening and deepening, to bind

6

together our Atlantic and Pacific States, and to Christianize
these plains and mountains, as future States grow up. The Nav-
ajo Indians, some 7100, have crossed the Rio Grande at Albuquer-
que, on their way to their reservation, north-west, some two hun-
dred miles. The government has provided well for them.
Among other things, it guarantees a chapel and central school
house at the agency, and a school house and teacher for each and
every thirty pupils of a certain age. Here is a field for Christian
enterprise. I rejoice to hear that our Church has appointed a
missionary to them, and that on his arrival at Santa Fe, he and
the two clergymen already in New Mexico are authorized to or-
ganize a Presbytery. A home missionary is also expected, to oc-
cupy an important station on the Eio Grande. This will make a
good beginning for Presbyterians in New Mexico. May the
bright, blue banner be ever borne aloft on these mountain heights,
and well sustained against "the world, the flesh, and the devil,"
to Christ's glory in the salvation of men.

Santa Fe, our capital, has been wisely and opportunely chosen
by our Boards of Home Missions and Education as their initial
and central position. It was founded in 1595, and is, next to St.
Augustine, Florida, the oldest Christian city in North America.
Its name means Holy Faith. Adown the ages may it be distin-
guished for this.

In the hot days of June, by invitation of Rev. D. McFaeland, I
visited it to preach two Sabbaths and intervening week-nights, to
baptize his child and assist at a communion. I call it my preach-
ing furlough. And though I had a hard week's staging of four
hundred miles, and seven days of preaching, when the mercury
ranged from seventy to ninety degrees, yet I had a most pleasant
summer vacation in civil life, and genial Christian society in that
Rocky Mountain city, some 2,300 feet higher than Fort Craig,
(table land,) and 6,900 feet above the level of the sea. Our dry
mountain air is a tonic, an elixir vitce, and makes varied work a
recreation. The meetings were well attended by citizens, as well
as civil and military officers of the Territory.

The church and school, under care of Rev. D. McFarland, are
thriving amid difficulties. Three were added to the church by
certificate, one from Socorro, New Mexico, one from Junction
City, Kansas, and the third from Fort Wayne, Indiana, whose
pastor was Dr. Lowrie, of noble Christian memory. Others
Avere asking what they must do to be saved. Others were giving
sober heed to the word preached. But outside of these were a

greater number, both young and middle-aged, who were madly
following "the lust of the flesh., the lust of the eyes, and the
pride of life" — a missionary field, truly.

The school had closed for the year previous to my arrival. All
spoke well of its success. Some pupils had come two hundred
miles. They expect to return in the fall, and bring others with
them. Mr. McFakland has laid a good foundation, and is work-
ing hard and wisely. He has secured and fitted up an old Bap-
tist church, for preaching and school, and some valuable lots,
with old buildings, for temporary residence and boarding.
These are deeded to our Boards. Now he greatly needs $2,500,
tu put up requisite school buildings. Who will compete for the
honor of sending promptly to our Board of Education the
amount ? Some ladies, in Central New York I think, have
agreed to support a free school for the New Mexicans. It is to
be taught by Miss Gaston, a temporary assistant in Mr.
McPakland's school, and formerly, for five years, a successful
teacher of Indians in the Cherokee Nation. The Eoman Catho-
lic Bishop (Lamy) of Colorado and New Mexico resides in Santa
Fe. He is a man of learning, tact, and genial manners. These,
with some reforms, especially among his priests, have gained him
some popularity among Protestants. In fact, the Eoman Catho-
lic schools of Santa Fe and Moro have had large Protestant sup-
port. The Bishop professed to me his desire to circulate the
sacred Scriptures, and found a school in every parish. Yet little
progress has been made thereto, and he defended the Paganish
procession of the statue of the Virgin Mary in Santa Fe the first
Sabbath of my visit ! No Avonder similar scenes stirred up Paul's
heart of old. -The Papists have their cathedral, and two or three
other churches, San Miguel's College, a hospital, an orphan's asy-
lum, and a convent. Now let Presbyterians arise to defend and
preserve their sons and daughters, and to kindle anew the cheer-
ing fires of the " one faith " in New Mexico.

To be fully established and growing, we need another minister
and a new church edifice in Santa Fe. Our church and educa-
tional work is too much for one. Now is the time to " devise
liberal things, for by liberal things shall we stand." And our
noble little band there need more aid now than they otherwise
would, because the Episcopal Bishop (Eandall,) of Colorado and
New Mexico has lately visited Santa Fe, to found a parish. This
will temporarily weaken our strength. Death too, and removals,
have left their marks. Practical atheism and licentiousness per-

8

meate society. Imagine, then, what a tusk our Church has there.
Give, then, your aid generously and promptly, Christian men and
women, to make this mountain city of Santa Fe a fountain of
gospel life and joy, which shall pour its streams of blessings far
and wide along the Bio Grande.

Being delayed on my return, I preached at Socorro to some Ameri-
cans and New Mexicans, who heard the word gladly. Here are some
New Mexican Protestants and a church edifice — the result of a
former Baptist mission in the Tetritory, long since discontinued.
May it soon again become a living mission church. Had we
abundant home missionary means, I would designate Albuquerque,
Socorro, and Mesilla, three important centres on the Eio Grande,
to be immediately occupied. They are respectively 75, 140, and
300 miles south of Santa Fe. And Fort Craig is thirty-five miles
south of Socorro. But as Ave have occupied Santa Fe at an op-
portune and yet difficult time, I first appeal to our noble breth-
ren and sisters in the States, to show these Jews, Boman and Pro-
testant Christians, and Atheists, what Presbyterians are willing
to do for the cause of Christ among them. Our little struggling
church, and its toiling, anxious missionary and educator will
thank you, and be encouraged. Their children, with many com-
panions, will rise up and call you blessed. The future state of
New Mexico will blossom with the fruit of your gifts. The wife
of our present Governor is among our "honorable women." In
her parlor was our church organized. May it find a settled home
and increasing prosperity in New Mexico.

.AAi^Arf mi <^^aa.* imta

NEW MEXICO:

HEE RESOURCES; HER NECESSITIES FOR RAILROAD
COMMUNICATION WITH THE ATLANTIC . >
PACIFIC STATES; HER GREAT FUTUR:

By CHARLES P. CLEVER,

DELEGATE FROM NEW MEXICO.

WASHINGTON, D. C.

McGILL & WITHEROW, PRINTERS AND STEREOTYPERS.

1868.

p^^^^^m »»»»»>»»»»»»»». imr^^r^f >(>t.,.<>t,,>>Tt(,,, t^^^^^^^^^^^^^.

JEW MEXICO:

HER RESOURCES ; HER NECESSITIES FOR RAILROAD

COMMUNICATION WITH THE ATLANTIC AND

PACIFIC STATES; HER GREAT FUTURE.

By CHARLES P. CLEVER,

DELEGATE FROM NEW MEXICO.

WASHINGTON, D. C.

McGILL & TVITHERCW, PRINTERS. AND STEREOTYPERS.

1868.

m mttitt

House of Representatives,

Washington, D. C,

January 8, 1868.

I am so often written to and questioned about New Mex-
ico, the Territory from which I have been returned as Dele-
gate, that I have considered it best to have printed such
general information about that country, and its resources, as
a few hours, snatched from those occupied by the duties of
my position, permit me to give.

In the sixteenth century, not long after the conquest of
Mexico, an expedition was fitted out in Culiacan to proceed
northward and eastward in search of the " Seven cities of
Cibola," one of which was Quivira, where rumor said that
gold abounded in great quantities. This rumor had been
brought by some two or three persons, one a negro, who
either had voluntarily wandered into that country of Cibola,
or had been forcibly carried there, and had afterwards made
their way back to their friends, the Spaniards. The expedi-
tion was commanded by Yasquez de Coronada, and, though
small, was made up of many who belonged to the chivalry
of Spain. It would be pleasant to trace out the route and
the adventures of this body, of those gallant and hardy spirits
from the day they set out until their return; but the limits
of this slight sketch do not permit this. A journal was kept
by one Casteliada, who belonged to the expedition, and this
has been published, and will be read with interest by all

who seek to know of the early expeditions made by Euro-
peans into the heart of our country.

When the people belonging to Coronada's expedition re-
turned to the settled portions of the vice royalty of Mexico,
they imparted to their countrymen there a knowledge of the
beautiful and salubrious region they had visited. Settlers
began to migrate northward toward Sonora and Chihuahua,
and finally into New Mexico. This was early in the seven-
teenth century. Farms were then opened, and large churches
were built by Indian labor under the direction of Catholic
missionaries; and, tradition says, that rich mines were dis-
covered, in which the Indians were compelled by force, and
often by cruelty, to toil. At length, exasperated beyond
further endurance, they rose on their oppressors, and destroy-
ing many, drove all of the remainder out of New Mexico as
far southward as El Paso del Norte. This was in the month
of August, in the year 1680.

About twenty years afterwards, a new effort was made by
the Spaniards to settle the country. This was permanently
successful ; but the new comers for a long time never ven-
tured far from the valley of the Rio Grande. Back from
that river, away amidst the mountains, and on the plains, are
still seen the ruins of churches and monasteries which, as
ruins, excite admiration; and, from their remoteness, gran-
deur, and now utter loneliness, are subjects of wonder and
curious speculation. As they now interest the antiquary
and the ethnologist, so when time slips away, and the Scotts
and Schillers, and Byrons and Longfellows come there, then
they will be rebuilt and repeopled, and be known in enduring
song. The very veil of mystery which seems now to hang-
about them, and about those who built them, will be appa-
rently rent away, and what is now but so lonely and so weird,
will then be made bright and enchanting forever.

Since the Territory of Arizona was set off from New Mex-
ico, the latter Territory extends from longitude 103° to longi-
tude 109°, west from Greenwich; and from latitude 81° 30'
to latitude 37° north, and contains 121,201 square miles, or
77,568,640 acres. The Rio Grande and the Pecos river are

the principal rivers, which run through it from a northerly
to a souther]}' direction. The streams forming the head-
waters of the Canadian affluent to the Arkansas, are those
draining the eastern side of the Territory. Cordilleras of
the Rocky Mountains run from north to south, but are here
and there lost in the table lands to rise again further on,
either as isolated peaks, or as short sierras. From the most
eastern of these ranges, and extending toward the east, are vast
steppes, like terraces, one lower than the other, marking an-
cient levels of the country, the summits of which gradually
slope toward the Mississippi. Through these steppes during
the lapse of eons of ages, the rivers and streams have worn
for themselves channels, and grooved out valleys of the most
surpassing loveliness and of great fertility. The valley of
the Rio Grande and of the Pecos have been fashioned in the
same manner, and are intervales of like character; but near
the head of the Pecos, and on each side of the upper Rio
Grande, the country rises into mountain peaks of indescrib-
able grandeur and beauty.

"West of the Rio Grande lies a country of table lands, or
mesas, with broad valleys between. These mesas are also the
remains of a former level, and many of them, standing out
apart from others, resemble fortresses and castles of a size
sufficient to have been occupied by armies of Titans. Here
and there, amongst them, rises up a peak, now become an
extinct volcano. Down the side of these peaks, and over
some of the mesas I have described, and through valleys be-
tween mesas, once poured rivers of lava. Even now, as the
traveller comes to some of these rivers, they seem as if they
must have been suddenly arrested in their course, and been
cooled only a few years gone by into black and immovable
stone.

In the southwestern portion of the Territory there is a
range of high mountains extending from the Rio Grande far
into Arizona. The waters running off their southern slope
form the head-waters of the Miembres, which runs toward
Lake Guzman, in Chihuahua; and also form the head-
waters of the Gila, running westward into the Colorado.

6

The mountains throughout New Mexico are clad with
forests of pine, spruce, cedar, fir, and other kindred trees.
At high altitudes the aspen is found in great quantities.
The foot hills and many of the mesas, are covered with the
piilon, often intermixed with cedar trees. Along the rivers
and streams, the natural growth is principally made up of
cottonwoods, sycamores, hackherry, willow, wild grape vines,
&c. On streams in the southern part of the country, walnut
and oak are found ; but not to any great extent. The ivhole
of New Mexico may be said to be covered with grass ; for
even in the forests is found the year around the most luxuri-
ant grass. In the winter time, at very great altitudes, this
grass is covered with snow; but it does not seem to be killed
to the ground, for as soon as the snow melts, it at once af-
fords excellent grazing. All over the mesas and through
the valleys, grows the grama, a grass justly celebrated for
its nutritious qualities. This does not wilt and become
effete in winter; but becomes cured as hay, just where it
stands, and the flocks and herds feed upon it all winter. It
may here be said, that New Mexico is so delightfully situated
as to climate, that, as a pastoral region, its grazing is not
destroyed by the cold storms and bleaching rains of the
countries farther north; nor is it burnt up or become
stunted aud sparse, by the burning heats of the countries
further south.

The valleys of the rivers can all be successfully cultivated.
The cultivation of land in New Mexico is mainly by the
help of irrigation. It is true, it costs some labor to make
the ditches, but, then, the farmer is sure of a crop ; and the
running over his land of water highly charged with detritus,
made up of decayed vegetation and rich mould from the
mountains above, is a source of fertility. In this way the
land never wears out. Irrigation thus becomes a fertilizer.

The agricultural interests of New Mexico have heretofore
been confined to the raising of wheat, corn, beans, oats,
barley. In some localities in the north, potatoes grow well;
but along the valleys they cannot be successfully cultivated.
The chile, or red pepper, of which the Spanish people make

some fine dishes, is grown in great abundance all over the
country. Since the Americans have gone to New Mexico,
nearly all kinds of garden vegetables and fruits have been
introduced, and grow luxuriously and are of excellent size
and flavor. Peaches, apples, apricots, grapes, and in the
south, quinces, pomegranates and figs, can be grown as well
in New Mexico as in any part of the world. Indeed, with
such a variety of climate, and with such a rich and varied
soil, it is difficult to conceive of any kind of fruit, except
that which needs the fervor of a tropical sun, that could not
be grown within the boundaries of New Mexico. The
variety of the grape which is most cultivated in New Mex-
ico, cannot be surpassed for flavor by any grape in the world.
The wine made from it far surpasses the best Burgundy. It
requires but little labor to cultivate the vine, as no trellises
are used. In a few years the grape culture will be one of
the greatest and most profitable branches of industry in that
country.

The pastoral interests will be of the next greater value.
As before remarked, the whole country is a grazing country.

Those who raise sheep and goats know that they want a
plenty of room and air. Half of the diseases incident to
these animals arise from having them huddled together in
yards or barns in cold weather. In New Mexico, the range
is so extensive the flocks can spread out, and can move over
different pasturage every successive day. No shelter is
needed in the winter time. In very cold weather the flocks
move southward, and when inclement storms come on go
down from the uplands to seek the genial shelter cf some
neighboring canon. So, except to make a start in procuring
a flock of sheep or of goats, the cost of feeding and of at-
tending them, is a mere nominal sum. As soon as we can
introduce, by railroad, improved breeds of sheep, and the
Cashmere goat, we can compete with the world in the pro-
duction of fine wool, and of the exceedingly fine hair of
that goat. Of course, what is said of the facility and cheap-
ness of raising sheep and goats, will equally apply to the
raising of horses and cattle. We can therefore furnish the

8

best of beef, and of butter and cheese, eheaper, when once
we are protected in the raising of stock from Indian depre-
dations, than any country in the world. Except for work
cattle and horses, which are kept about the farms or foi
daily use, hardly any ha}7, or fodder, or corn need be put up.
The time is not far distant when our hills and mountains
will literally be covered with flocks and herds.

The mineral wealth of the country is simply enormous.
The almost daily discoveries of new lodes of gold and silver-
bearing quartz, and of auriferous placers, have ceased to be
a surprise in New Mexico. The people of intelligence and
knowledge of such matters, know that as soon as men with
capital can come and see what they see, then these mines will
yield untold millions.

New Mexico has her useful metals and minerals in the
greatest abundance.

I take the liberty of making some extracts from a very
able report on this subject, made in 1865, by Professor Rich-
ard Dale Owen, and by Professor E. T. Cox, both gentlemen
of great authority in the scientific world as geologists and
chemists. The report alluded to was published in this city
by the Hon. John S. Watts, formerly Delegate from New
Mexico, who has labored hard to bring to public notice the
value of that Territory :

" When, by a gradual ascent over the Plains, we reach the
foot of the Rocky mountains we do not find a vast succession
of promiscuously piled mountains; but we have several par-
allel ridges of crystaline rocks with sedimentary strata on
their flanks, and a second series of hypogene parallel ridges
with a trend diverging often 50° or more from the former;
this latter also sometimes further modifying the aqueous
beds. These together constitute the main dividing range
which separates the waters of the great Mississippi valley
from those which flow into the Pacific, while mesas or table
lands, formed by the overflow of volcanic rocks, have to
great extent levelled the intervening inequalities.

"In the Raton mountain, close to the stage road, we
examined a five-foot bed of bituminous coal, and on reach-

9

trig the summit found fossil angiospermous dicotyledonous
leaves in shale of Cretaceous age. At the fine hacienda of
Mr. Maxwell, formerly hunter and guide in Fremont's expe-
dition, the proprietor pointed to his coal bed in the moun-
tain side, distinctly visible from the house, above aluminous
shales. Two miles N. E. of Santa Fe, we found a thin bed
of coal, coal plants, and carboniferous limestone.

" Near the Placer mountain we examined a bed almost
five feet thick of the best anthracite, altered by porphyritic
contact; the same porphyry dike five miles from there, in
the gold diggings of Placer, bringing up almost to a vertical
position the carboniferous limestone and superincumbent
sandstone, again forming a breccia near the junction; the
whole overlaid by cretaceous, judging from the fragmenis
of silicious coniferous wood, the same as seen at Galisteo
creek. Lieutenant Simpson, in his expedition with Colonel
Washington, found bituminous coal abundant on the Rio
Puereo ; and General Carleton observed a bed on Rabbit Ear
creek. Coal is also dug near Fort Craig, and we heard of
it in other parts of southern New Mexico.

"For convenience of reference, details will be given — 1,
of gold mines; 2, of silver; 3, of copper; 4, of iron and
other metallic ores ; 5, of mineral products not metallic.

"1. Gold mines.

"A. Old Placer mine, in Placer mountain, twenty-seven
miles S. S. E. from Santa Fe\ The mountain is situated
about the point of intersection for the Jemez range, if not
interrupted by the Rio Grande, with the prolongation of the
Rocky mountain range, which passes east of Santa Fe, the
main mass being a felspathic syenite, the summit estimated
at about 8,000 feet high; but the mountain slope cut through,
at less than 7,000 feet above the ocean, by a N. N. E. por-
phyritic dike, which, in its eruption, has brought carboni-
ferious strata to the surface. As the name indicates, these
old placer diggings were worked by washing the soil, although
undoubtedly many auriferous sands cannot be traced to
their origin, yet here, by ascending higher to the vein which
furnished the gold detritus, a quartz rock is quarried and

2

10

brought down to the mill to be worked. The highest, or
Ortiz vein, by my barometer, 6,950 feet above the sea, has
been reached by shafts at numerous openings, which show
that the vein trends chiefly E. of ~N., although two northerly
openings bear somewhat west. The deepest shaft, affording
the best ore, has reached a depth of over 150 feet, and when
carried further down, may be expected to develop ore of
greater value. The ladders being decayed, we could not
descend that shaft, but by an inspection of others, and of
the ore thrown out at the deep shaft, we ascertained that the
wall rock is highly felspathic, and contains much iron, the
vein is from one to four feet wide, and the gangue a porous
drusy ferruginous quartz.

" Here, as in California, it is considered more favorable to
find gold in rocks, where it is not visible to the naked eye,
than to find occasional rich lumps, the latter being in pockets
and giving out sooner, while the minutely diffused is persis-
tent. Such is the character of the quartz vein in the Ortiz
mine, particularly of those pieces having a porous ferrugin-
ous appearance.

"A short distance from this mine extensive works have
been erected, a reservoir has been constructed across the
outflow from a spring so as to save the water; a steam
engine of forty-horse power drives the quartz crushers, be-
sides giving motion to an arastra (or circular bed often made
of phorphyry blocks) which was nearly completed when we
were there, on which the crushed ore is more minutely pul-
verized and intimately amalgamated. On the old inferior
method, we learn that for several years the average from
this mine was sufficient to remunerate those engaged in it ;
and it is anticipated that on the more improved plan, now
being introduced, much more will be realized ; as formerly,
the dirt which had been run off and rejected, was made to
afford profit by rewashing. The annual yield, we learn, has
resulted as high as $40,000 to $50,000 ; even according to
Gregg, in his ' Commerce of the Praries,' to $80,000 in the
years 1832 and 1835.

" The Cuningham works are a short distance further east,

11

in the same mountain where the porphyrinic trap described
in the general geology, has brought up and formed a breccia
with a carboniferous limestone, and at other places with the
overlying sandstone. The same breccia may be found yet
higher toward the Ortiz openings, wherever the porphyry
protrudes." At the Cuningham excavations the dike is fifty
to sixty feet wide, and as the feldspar is decomposing, this
brecciated rock is easily worked for gold and made profit-
able, although affording a lower percentage of metal than
the Ortiz and adjoining Tunica quartz veins.

The ore from the Ortiz mine, after being crushed and
pulverized, and after being separated from the rock and
magnetic iron ore, afforded on digestion with nitric acid and
being freed from impurities, a quantity* equal to three
ounces and two pennyweights of gold to the ton of 2,000
pounds of the ore. This, at the present value of the metal,
worth in paper money from $36 to $40 per ounce would con-
sequently be considerably over $100 to the ton ; a very heavy
percentage when we consider, as already stated, that in
California, companies with suitable machinery, work profit-
ably ore affording $20 a ton or even sometimes that which
realizes only $10 per ton.

"B. Gold in quartz veins near San Jose copper mine.
Not more than a mile or at most a mile and a half west of
the San Jose copper mine, we saw at least six parallel quartz
veins, some of which had been extensively and profitably
worked for gold until the miners were driven -off' by the
Indians. The veins run somewhat E. of N. and W. of S.
across a porphyritic ridge, which in its W. of N. course has
tilted the sandstone with an easterly dip. From these works
samples were also taken for examination and analysis.
Specimens of gold quartz from many other localities were

* Since the above, Mr. Cox has forwarded an analysis of the gold, &c,
thus obtained from the Ortiz gold quartz in the Placer mountain.
The result afforded : Gold, 99.170
Silver, .782
Iridium, .048

100.000

12

brought us for inspection, chiefly by soldiers, affording strong
evidence of the mineral wealth both of Xew Mexico and
Arizona; but we deem it best to confine our detailed re-
port to those regions which we visited personally, mention-
ing only casually such as, from the testimony of others,
might merit future attention. Eegarding the various modes
of working these gold ores, it may not be improper to add
that Ure's recommendation, based chiefly, however, on the
experience obtained in European and South American gold
mines, is not to melt directly with lead, (as has been pro-
posed by some connected with the Placer,) unless the ore is
remarkably rich. He adds : ' These processes are little
practiced, because they are less economical than amalga-
mation.'

" C. VTe heard of gold in placer diggings twenty-five or
thirty miles north of Fort Stanton, but had no opportunity
of examining the locality.

"2. Silver mines. — The chief localities furnishing this pre-
cious metal, which we had an opportunity to visit, exhibit
the silver in combination with lead. In most instances an
approximate result was readily obtained, through cupellation
on a small scale, under the flame of the blowpipe. The ores
will, however, all be subjected to rigid analysis for exact
quantitative determination.

"A. The San Adelia and Stevenson mine in Organ moun-
tain. These are so near each other, as you are aware, (being
perhaps two miles apart in a direct line in the same range,)
that thev mav be described under one head, although owned
separately.

" The Organ mountain, as far up as we examined it, is
composed of a granitic porphyry, which in its protrusion has
elevated not only the sandstone several hundred feet on its
western slope, but has even brought up the carboniferous
limestone. This occurs especially near the San Adelia mine,
where the limestone is metamorphosed in places to a beau-
tiful white chrystaline marble. Several parallel quartz veins
have also cut through in a northerly and southerly direction,
and it is in these the metal chiefly occurs. The Stevenson

13

mine has been extensively worked, chiefly for the argentif-
erous galena, at five separate openings, each having a dis-
tinctive name. This ore afforded a good globule of silver
when cupelled under the blow-pipe; but it will be further
tested on a larger scale. Some openings, however, are
worked for their copper ores, vitreous copper, malachite and
azurite, occasionally associated with calcspar, at other times
having a gangue of baryta. The amount of silver lead ore
seems large, as the vein or lode frequently is five to six feet
wide, never less than two feet, with the ore diffused pretty
well through it. The highest opening, called San Domingo,
near the summit of the uptilted sandstone, is about 1,400
feet above Las Cruces; the mesa itself at the foot of the
mines being about six hundred feet above the town, and
fifteen or sixteen miles distant from it. Extending for half
a mile or more from the flanks of the Organ mountain, near
those mines, are interesting moraines, or lines at regular
intervals, of deposited boulders, chiefly porphyritic, the red
variety more decomposed than the grey. B. We did not
personally examine any other silver mines; but we received
specimens of argentiferous galena from Pinos Altos, Apache
Pass, and Stoue Corral, all of which silver lead, judging from
the blow-pipe examinations, would afford remunerative quan-
tities of silver, provided the ore is as abundant as repre-
sented.

"3. Copper mines.

"A. Hanover Copper Mine.

" To reach this region from Mesilla by way of Fort Cum-
min gs, the road past the Miembres river, hot springs, and
Santa Rita, is about one hundred and ten miles; but it is only
ninety miles from Fort Craig to the Hanover mines, by a
direct S. W. route practicable for wagons. The Hanover
mines are situated about 6,350 feet above the ocean, where
a syenetic granite, having large hexagonal crystals of mica,
has elevated the carboniferous limestone two hundred feet
up the west flank of the mountain; but the openings, of which
there are many, are near the first appearance of the aqueous
rock in the narrow valley, in which also the furnace is erected.

14

The granitic range has a strike "W. of N., and bringing the
limestone up in that direction, gives it on the "W". flank, a
W. of S. dip. This axis is crossed by a highly ferruginous
rock, sometimes a pure magnetic iron ore, trending appa-
rently rather in dike form E. of 1ST., and forming frequently
in places with the adjacent aqueous rock, for a considerable
distance, immense masses cf breccia. Near these disturbing
forces a sixty-three feet shaft has been sunk, and various
tunnels run, exposing extensive deposits of copper, often
green or blue carbonate, sometimes native copper in the de-
composing feldspar of the granite; occasionally (especially at
the openings down the valley from the furnace) as vitreous
copper, sometimes as grey copper. An analysis of this mal-
achite or green carbonate of copper, has been forwarded by
Mr. Cox since the above was written. The result was, oxide
of copper 72.64=58 per cent, of metallic copper. The ore
occurs ramifying, sometimes for fifty or sixty feet in width,
through the decomposing feldspar, forms therein rich deposits
and extends vertically below any point yet reached. In some
places, where the iron ore described above intersects, it forms
the gangue, but is easily detached mechanically.

" The smelting, from all that we saw and could learn from
Mr. Tlinkel, the former proprietor, now involves much less
labor and expense than is common in Europe. This geutle-
man had studied metallurgy in his native country, Saxony,
and had erected extensive works, which were paying well,
when he was driven off by the Indians, and compelled by
his extensive losses to sell out most of his interest in said
mines. Much of the machinery remains there, and the fur-
naces are standing. He ran the mixed ores first through
high, narrow furnaces, and completed the work in those of
a reverberatory form, running the metal into iron moulds,
which were procured at a cost of six hundred dollars, and
which we saw still undisturbed at the time of our visit.

" In Germany it was not unusual, some years since, to roast
for many months, and then to submit the copper to at least
five distinct smeltings; a labor rendered unnecessary at these
mines in consequence of the purity of the ore.

15

" The copper thus shipped to the States has commanded,
ever since it was tried, a ready market at a price equal to that
of the best Russia copper. It is said to he a trifle harder than
that of Santa Rita, hence more suitable for nails, bolt heads,
and similar work in sheathing vessels.

"This is probaly due to a slight admixture of iron, not
eliminated in the imperfect mode of smelting adopted, until
better machinery was obtained. The necessary materials
had been purchased, and the improvements were in process
of construction, when the Indian troubles commenced.

" On the hills and mountains around the Hanover furnace
there is abundant timber for charcoal and fuel; pines, pinon,
some walnut, and a good deal of oak. The sandstone, already
mentioned, is in places suitable for furnace hearthstones; the
syenite, when porphyritic, we observed to be very durable,
especially that of a grey color, at least as far as we could
judge from the weathering; and the limestone remote from
the locality, in which its condition was, as already described,
highly metamorphosed, will readily burn into lime. Water
is unfailing from some springs, and is in sufficient quantity
for the purposes of washing the ore, by constructing a short
race or aqueduct (acequia), and thus obtaining additional
force. Gramma grass, somewhat lower in the valley, is of
the finest quality anywhere seen during our explorations; it
was over two feet high, and would cut two tons of hay to the
acre, when we were there — October 23, 1864.

" B. Santa Rita mines.

" These are situated on the same range, a few miles further
south, and about three hundred and fifty feet lower than the
Hanover furnace. The ore is of a similar character, and has
been profitably worked for many years, probably for two
centuries, by Spaniards and Mexicans. The native copper,
which is as pure as that of Lake Superior, is washed out from
the decomposing feldspar, and smelted with the malachite
and azurite.

"Besides many tons of ore abandoned here, when the
workmen were driven off by the Indians, we noticed much

16

valuable machinery, including the latest improvement for
obtaining the blast.

" It seems highly probable that good copper ore could be
found abundantly, not only along the entire distance between
Hanover and Santa Rita, but also from the indications, in
some of the parallel ridges; and even in the prolongation
of the Santa Rita range to San Jose, the next which we pro-
ceed to describe.

"C. San Jose Mines.

" These are 150 feet lower than the Santa Rita mines, and
somewhat west of south of them. The ore, however, is still
nearly of the same character, and very abundant. It occurs
chiefly where quartz veins, bearing E. of N., cut through
the "W. of 1ST. porphyritic range. The malachite and azurite
predominate here.

"D. Jemez Copper Mines.

"From this locality, which is situated about fifty miles
west of Santa F£, about 1,100 pounds of ore were obtained
for transportation to the States in order to be fairly tested on
a large scale. The ore is chiefly vitreous copper, often coated
with malachite.*

"Although snow had already fallen to a considerable ex-
tent, we found time, after completing our other work, to
visit this locality. We observed the copper in sheets under
heavy beds of sandstone, at an elevation of about 6,000 feet
above the ocean in the northern part of the canon of San
Diego.

" 4. Iron and other metallic ores.

" A. At the Hanover copper mines there is an inexhaust-
able supply of good iron ore, partly magnetic, partly a red
hematite, apparently in a continuous ridge, trending towards
a reported iron mountain, about fifteen miles distant, which
has already been mentioned as having been examined by
Captain "Whitlock. At the Placer mountain, twenty-seven
miles south of Santa Fe, we found also a considerable amount

*Since the above was written, Mr. Cox has forwarded the result of his ex-
amination of this ore, on a small scale, while awaiting the arrival of the
boxes. The virteous copper afforded 60 per cent, of metallic copper.

17

of good iron ore, such as would probably justify the erection
of a Catalan Forge — owners of mills and others requiring
small jobs, having at present to send to the States for their
castings and other heavy job work in iron. The whole
country afforded evidence of abundant deposits of this use-
ful metal, but that at the Placer, if sufficiently abundant, as
it appeared to be, would prove especially valuable on account
of its proximity to good anthracite coal, only six miles dis-
tant. That fuel would serve to generate steam and give,
if desired, impetus to a forge-hammer and other machinery,
which might be connected with the iron works as well as
to the quartz crushing and grinding apparatus for the gold
ore. * * *

" C. Kaolin, or Decomposed Feldspar.

"About two miles in a direct line southerly from the San
Jose copper mines, we found a layer of beautifully white and
decomposing feldspar, in the porphyritic granite, sufficient
to supply many works for years with the best material for
porcelain. The bed averages about four feet in thickness,
and was traced laterally two hundred yards and upwards.
Apparently it extends entirely through the mountain, and
the decomposition is probably the result of metamorphism.
This kaolin much resembles the deposit in Arkansas, fully
described in the State Geological Report. Other localities
were observed in which the feldspar of the granitic rocks had
thoroughly decomposed, but none were so purely white as
the above.

" The climate is so unsurpassed that if there were no other
inducement to immigration into that territory, many who, as
soldiers or travellers, have once experienced its delights,
would scarcely be satisfied elsewhere afterwards. The light,
dry, electrical atmosphere, gives a zest to mere existence,
irrespective of any other source of enjoyment, seldom if
ever experienced, I think, in any but climates of a similar
character, such as Mexico and southern California.

" The country needs only a railroad to develop its capa-
bilities. That could, for the most part of the route, be con-
structed at a very low cost per mile, as there would be very

2

18

little cutting and filling, scarcely any important culverts or
bridges until we reach the mountains. Even then, by adopt-
ing the Cimarron route, the Raton Pass is avoided, and on
arriving at the dividing ridge we can surmount the pass by
way of Pigion's ranch along a gradual ascent from near the
Pecos of not over 600 feet in ten miles. Usually this slope
could be obtained without much blasting, as far as I could
judge by a passing survey, but should this or even tunnel-
ing be rendered necessary, the granitic rocks of that sum-
mit are by no means very refractory. The further route,
either by the 35th or 32d parallel, is well known from the
Pacific railroad surveys, to encounter no serious difficulties.
By having it connect near Bent's old fort, with the northern
route passing near Pike's Peak, cross the Pocky Mountains
between Santa Fe" and Albuquerque, and pursue either of
the parallels above indicated, the railroad would pass through
the rich mineral regions of New Mexico and Arizona, and
reach the Pacific amid the rich cotton and vine portions of
California.

"The amount of energy, enterprise, and wealth, which
would thus be developed, can scarcely be over estimated.
Mention has already been made of the abundant supply of
coal which could be obtained along this route ; and by fol-
lowing the river courses from bend to bend, which would
require no great deviation from a direct line, the supply of
water would be equally favorable.

" The climate, the immense mineral wealth and facility for
making money, the chances for speculation and the good
profit by taking Government contracts, by freighting, mer-
chandising, ranching, owning stock, cultivating vineyards,
and the like, will no doubt continue to make this territory,
as it already is, a favorite resort for those desiring to better
their condition in health or wealth."

Since the report was published, from which the foregoing
extracts have been made, a very great number of new veins
of gold and silver bearing quartz have been discovered.
During the summer of 1867, General James H. Carleton, of
the army, who has resided many years iu New Mexico, vis-

19

ited some of the mineral regions in that Territory, and wrote
a letter for publication, which gives the results of his obser-
vation. Here is the letter :

"Pinos Altos, New Mexico.
" 7b the Editor of the Santa F&" Gazette:

" It may not be uninteresting to your readers to know
something about the town of Pinos Altos, in the southwest-
ern portion of the Territory; a town that is now attracting
no little attention from the reports which are circulating that
it is the central point of a region very rich in the precious
metals. As I have recently made a visit to Pinos Altos, it
affords me pleasure to give you for publication the results of
my observations and inquiries with reference to the resources
of that place, and of the country in its immediate vicinity.
On the loth of last month, Hon. Charles P. Clever, His Ex-
cellency Robert B. Mitchell, Captain John Pratt, the Mar-
shal of New Mexico, and myself, left the valley of the Rio
Grande at Fort Selden, N. M., where there is a fine ferry,
for Fort Cummings, N. M., distant, say, fifty-five miles.

" From Fort Cummings to the Miembres it is eighteen and
three-fourth miles. Here the road for Arizona bears off" to
left, while that for Fort Bayard and Pinos Altos keeps on-
ward, gradually inclining to the right from a west to nearly
a northwest course. At about six miles from the Miembres
Ave came to what is known as the Hot Spring. This spring
is of a very high temperature, sufficiently so to cook an egg
if it be let down into the water where it first comes up out
of the earth. The water seems to be highly charged with
lime, has some iron in it, and, to a small degree, some salt.
There may be other substances in it, but none are abundant
enough to render the water unpalatable when it has become
cold. The lime which the water has held in solution by an
excess of carbonic acid, and by the heat, has been precipi-
tated around the spring in such a quantity, in the way of tra-
vertine, as to form a mound some twenty-five feet higher than
the surrounding plain. The ascent to the summit of this
mound is very gradual. For many ages, doubtless, the water

20

has ceased boiling over the summit, and the travertine be-
coming more or less decaj^ed, has given way here and there,
and allowed it to find small channels through to the outer
sides of the slope below the top. These channels have thus
drained the spring until the surface of the water has gone
down, say, five or six feet. It still has a depth of ten or
twelve feet, and a diameter of, say, fifteen feet or more.
There is water enough running in all directions from this
spring, if carefully husbanded, to irrigate quite a farm. Some
nice bathing-rooms have been erected on the northern slope
of the mound ; and here, also, is quite an extensive adobe
residence, with fine rooms for those who come for the benefit
of the water. Here, too, corn and hay can be got, and good
meals, with a plenty of fresh butter and milk, A gentleman
named Mastin keeps this place, and is making here other
improvements than those mentioned. It is said that the In-
dians never come here for water, and that they avoid it as
bad medicine. The people living here have considerable
stock, but do not seem to fear that it will be stolen from the
corrals. No watch is kept over this stock during the night.
A mile beyond the hot spring is an abundance of fine, clear,
cold water. Thence to Fort Bayard, say seventeen miles,
the road is somewhat rough in places from loose stones, but
as a general thing it is most excellent. The scenery on either
hand, and in front, is of the most charming description, and
the air, at you gradually ascend toward the mountains to the
northwest, becomes cool and invigorating. -One could hardly
imagine a more delightful drive than this, from the hot
spring to Fort Bayard.

" Fort Bayard, as yet, is only an assemblage of log houses.
It has a capacity for some three or four companies. It was
intended to build the fort of a more durable material. Some
stone foundations, for the permanent quarters, have already
been commenced. A post of four companies of cavalry and
two of infantry, at this place, would be strong enough soon
to drive off or destroy the marauding Apaches, which now
are so great an obstacle to the filling up by farmers, stock-
growers, and miners of this important part of New Mexico.

21

"This post is about half way between the Santa Rita cop-
per mines and the town of Pinos Altos, by roads you are
obliged to travel if you are in a carriage. By an air-line, the
copper mines are nearest. As the crow flies, Pinos Altos is
about eight miles west of Fort Bayard, and the Santa Rita
mines are about five miles eastwardly from the post. The
Hanover copper mine is about seven miles in an air-line, in
a northerly direction from the post. From the summit of
the ridge east of the copper mines, and say, three miles dis-
tant, to eight or ten miles west of Pinos Altos, there is a belt
of country, say thirty miles long, from N. E. to S. ~W\, by
ten miles broad, that is known to be filled with rich veins of
gold, silver, copper, lead, iron, and other metals in combina-
tion. Outside of this tract it is believed there is an abund-
ance of mines just as valuable; but that part of the country
has not been so carefully examined as the tract here described.
The whole of this country is well wooded and covered with
fine pasturage, and there are several streams of permanent
water upon it. During the rainy season, and for some weeks
after it is over, nearly all of the arroyos have more or less of
water in them.

" On the 19th of June, we went to Pinos Altos, and staid
there until the 22d. We were hospitably entertained by
the citizens, and they took every pains to give us all possible
information in relation to the town and the mines. The his-
tory of the place may be summed up in a few words.

" In May, 1860, a Colonel Snively and a party of California
miners came to this region and discovered gold near the
present site of the town of Pinos Altos, in what is known
as Rich Gulch. In June of that year people commenced
coming, to work in placers. In December, 1860, there were,
say, fifteen hundred here from Chihuahua, Sonora, Texas, and
from California. They, at that time, averaged to the hand
some ten or fifteen dollars per day. Other gulches were
discovered during the fall and summer of 1860. In Decem-
ber, 1860, the first quartz mine was discovered by Mr.
Thomas Mastin, with a party of prospecters. This vein is
called the Pacific mine; it runs through the hill or moun-

22

tain, rather, which constitutes the 'divide' of the continent,
and has been worked on each slope of that mountain.

" In the spring of 1861, this mine was bought by Mr. Virgil
Mastin, a brother of the discoverer, and it was successfully
worked during the rest of that year. During 1861, the
Apache Indians made formidable raids on the stock of the
miners, and nearly stripped them of the means to prosecute
their labors. A severe battle was fought between the miners
and a band of this tribe, under Mangas Coloradas and Ca-
chees. The Indians numbered about five hundred warriors,
and came directly into the town now known as Pinos Altos,
which the miners had established in a point central to the
scene of their labors. This was on the 27th of September,
1861. Captain Thomas Mastin, who commanded a company
of volunteers, was killed in this fight. The Indians were
driven off, but the impression they had made on the minds
of the inhabitants of the town was so great as to induce the
most of the latter to go away. The breaking out of the re-
bellion also had the effect to induce many to leave. A few
only held on, and amongst them was Mr. Virgil Mastin,
who foresaw the future development of the great wealth and
promise of this region.

"Xot much was done in discovering or in testing the
merits of new leads from 1861 to 1864, when still another
attempt was made to work the Pacific mine, and a few other
mines which Mr. Virgil Mastin had meantime discovered.
These latter lodes are known as the Atlantic, Adriatic, and
Bear Creek. The work commenced on these had been
prosecuted but a short time, when the Apaches again came
and stripped the miners of their stock. This caused another
suspension of nearly all further labors until 1866, when Mr.
Virgil Mastin, Mr. Samuel J. Jones, Mr. Joseph Eeynolds,
Mr. J. Edgar Griggs, and Mr. Jacob Amberg, organized a
company, under the name and style of ' The Pinos Altos
Mining Company,' under charter granted by the Legislature
of New Mexico. This company has three lodes, viz, the
Pacific, Atlantic, and Bear Creek. Its stock consists of four
hundred shares, at five hundred dollars par value per share,

23

which stock is owned as follows : Virgil Mastin has one
hundred and twenty; Samuel J. Jones has sixty; Jacob
Amberg has one hundred ; Joseph Eeynolds has sixty, and
J. Edgar Griggs has sixty. None of the shares are for sale.
The company has now a steam mill in the town of Pinos
Altos, which drives three batteries of five stamps each.
When all three batteries are kept at work night and day, they
crush twenty tons of ore in twenty-four hours. The aver-
age yield of ore extracted from the Pacific mine is from
eighty to one hundred and fifty dollars per ton. Ore can be
selected from this lead which will yield one thousand dollars
per ton. This mill is not, as yet, crushing ore taken from
the Atlantic and Bear Creek lodes; but ore taken from
these has been reduced in arastras, and has yielded as much
as ore taken from the Pacific. The Atlantic lies east of-
Pinos Altos one and a half miles; the Bear Creek half a
mile to the south of the town, and the Pacific one and a half
miles to the west. On this latter lead or lode a tunnel has
already been drifted seven hundred and thirteen feet. Its
eastern terminus is on the Atlantic slope of the mountain.
Its western terminus, when the tunnel is completed, will de-
bouch upon the Pacific slope. Then the tunnel will be six-
teen hundred feet long. Midway it passes under the crest
of the mountain, where an air-shaft is run down, which will
enter the tunnel one hundred and twenty-one feet below the
summit. This tunnel is six and a half feet high, and is five
feet wide. A tram-way is laid down upon its floor, and on
this is a small car, which carries out the ore as fast as it is
mined by the workmen drifting in the tunnel. It costs, to
extract ore from the mine, not to exceed six dollars per ton.
It costs, delivered at the mill in town, eight dollars and fifty
cents. This covers all expenses, including extracting, haul-
ing, &c, &c. The actual expense of crushing this ore is
about three dollars per ton.

" The Pacific vein is from three to eleven feet wide, and
is inexhaustable. It contains gold, silver, and, in places, a
small proportion of copper. The company has nearly com-
pleted furnaces for the smelting of the silver ores taken from

24

this mme. These will yield in dollars, per ton, more than
the gold ores heretofore alluded to. The cost of smelting
siver ores per ton will be twenty-five per cent, less than the
cost of crushing the gold ores.

"There are now, within a radius of six miles from the
centre of the town of Pinos Altos, over six hundred lodes
of gold and silver, as I have been informed by good au-
thority. Several of them prospect equal to those mentioned.
Among them are ' The Bear Creek Extension,' owned by
Captain William L. Rynerson and company; 'The Santa
Juliana,' owned by 'The Bay State Pinos Altos Mining
Company ;' ' The Montezuma Silver Mine,' owned by Langs-
ton and company; 'The Langston Mine,' (silver) owned by
Langston and company ; ' The Turkey Creek,' ' Weirt,' and
'Aztec,' owned by Mastin, Reynolds and company ; ' The
Santo Domingo Pinos Altos silver and lead mine ;' ' The
Perdido Silver Mine,' owned by Davis, Mastin and com-
pany; 'The Forest Tree' silver mine, owned by Long
Brothers and company; 'Summit,' gold and silver lode,
'Mantic' and 'Indigo,' owned by Rynerson, Stone and com-
pany; 'The Aztec No. 2,' owned by Reed, Jones and com-
pany; and 'The Mechanics,' and 'The Central,' owned by
Owens and company ; ' The Extension to Montezuma ' and
' The Extension to the Langston,' have been opened up and
are owned by Howard, Ward and company; 'The Variety
Lode ' is owned by William Kness and company. Mr.
Houston has also a very rich gold lead, and St. Vrain and
company a lead rich in silver and lead. Bates, Cooper and
company have also a fine lead near town, called ' The Buck-
eye.' All of the gentlemen named, and others who have
found and perfected their titles to leads at and near Pinos
Altos, deserve great credit for their energy and persever-
ance under the most discouraging circumstances. Now, in
all the gulches, or ravines, which come down from the slopes
of the neighboring mountains, the earth is rich in gold, and,
in the rainy season, will yield to the hand per day an average
of from five to six dollars.

" The population in October, 1866, at the time of renew-

25

ing operations by the Pinos Altos Mining Company, did not
exceed sixty miners. They now* number from eight hun-
dred to one thousand, and have erected and are now build-
ing some very comfortable dwelling-houses and some com-
modious stores at Pinos Altos. Here provisions can be
bought at reasonable rates. For example : superfine flour
can be bought at eleven dollars per sack of one hundred
pounds ; and bacon, hams, sugar, coffee, &c, at proportionate
prices. Most all articles required by miners, such as cloth-
ing, tools, blasting-powder, and fuse, &c.,&c, can be purchased
at moderate prices. The country is well timbered, and the
climate unsurpassed in salubrity by any within our boun-
daries between the two oceans. Pinos Altos is something
over five thousand feet above the sea level. It is built ex-
actly on the summit of the great chain of mountains divid-
ing the waters falling into the Atlantic from those falling
into the Pacific. As the town increases in size, it will be
built down either slope. It is eight miles from Fort Bay-
ard ; thirty miles from the Miembres Hot Springs ; thirty-
six miles from Miembres river; thirteen miles from the Santa
"Rita copper mines; from Mesilla, on the Rio Grande, one
hundred and fifteen miles ; from Fort Selden, one hundred
and ten miles ; from old Fort West, on the Gila river, thirty
miles ; and from Tucson, Arizona, one hundred and seven.

" Freight can be hauled to Pinos Altos from Mesilla, Las
Cruces, and Fort Selden, for two and a-half cents per pound.

" The information I have here given has been gathered
from personal observation, and from the statements of those
who live at Pinos Altos, and who are persons of credit. It
is my opinion, that before six years shall have passed away,
there will be a town at or near Pinos Altos larger than the
city of Denver. It may be doubted if there is on the known
surface of the earth an equal number of square miles on
which may be found as many as rich and extensive veins of
the useful, as well as of the precious metals, as at and near
Pinos Altos, New Mexico. As soon as a few mills demonstrate
the real value of even a few of the mines, capital will be sure
to drift in that direction to develop them all. It is possible

26

that mills for crushing ores, if erected in large nunfbers, will,
for convenience of water, be built down on Bear creek, or
even at the nearest point upon the Gila ; but the ores are so
rich they will pay the transportation upon a railroad to the
Gila river. The whole distance is a ' down ' grade. It re-
quires no stretch of the imagination, nor any effort of fancy,
to contemplate a time, close at hand, when the smokes of
numerous furnaces and the noise of stamp-mills will be seen
and heard throughout all this region. The elements of
wealth and material prosperity are surely there, and just so
soon as those who hold capital can become convinced by
actual observation, or by proof gathered from the experience
of others, that money invested in quartz-mills, in smelting
furnaces, in foundries, and in machine shops, will yield a
larger per cent., profit than when loaned on good securities,
if put into other branches of trade or industry elsewhere, just
that soon will it float to Pinos Altos, and urge forward the
development of that region with an energy that will yet sur-
prise even those who have been hopeful of the mineral wealth
of New Mexico.

"It was near the end of June when we returned to the Rio
Grande. At Fort Selden, at Las Cruces, and at Mesilla, as
well as wherever we stopped on our way back to Santa Fe,
we met with the greatest kindness and the most generous
hospitality. One could hardly imagine a more delightful or
interesting journey than that would be to a stranger going
from Santa Fe to Las Cruces and Mesilla, and thence to the
mineral region at Pinos Altos.

" The Old Placers.

"Four years ago, Governor Connelly, Col. T. Howe Watts,
Major DeForrest, and myself, paid a visit to the mines known
as the Old Placer mines, twenty-seven miles from Santa Fe,
New Mexico. We then, after actual inspection, came to the
conclusion that the mines themselves were very rich, and
could be developed with profit; but we were also as well
convinced that the management of the mines owned by the
'New Mexican Mining Company' was intrusted to unskill-

27

and incompetent heads. A want of system, and a want of
an intelligent direction of even what little work was then
doing, it was painful to contemplate. We all became fully
satisfied that the company was wasting much valuable time,
and throwing away a good deal of money to no purpose.
Within a year, however, all this has been changed. Now,
under a skillful superintendent, who devotes all his time and
his ability to demonstrate the truth that the mines which the
company had opened are mines that will yield a large profit
on the capital invested, the aspect of the affairs of that com-
pany has completely changed, and the stock is gradually ac-
quiring a firm and healthy tone in the market. Within the
last few days I have repeated my visit to the Old Placers in
company with Mr. James L. Johnson, one of the leading
merchants of New Mexico, and the results of my observa-
tions and calculations may not be uninteresting to the people
of the Territory.

" With regard to the extent of the mines already opened by
the New Mexican Mining Company, it may be fairly stated
that they are inexhaustible. This company, owns a tract of
mineral lands ten miles square; within this area the out-crop-
pings of mines not developed at all are abundant and are of
the most promising character. Rising out of the centre of
this property are what are known as the Gold mountains.
In the lapse of ages these mountains have been grooved by
the action of the elements and by the mechanical abrasion
of boulders forced downward by ancient torrents, until an
inclined plain or talus, is formed all around their base, which
is rich in what is known as placer gold broken off from the
upper crests of gold bearing ledges which must still have
existence beneath the present surface. Some of these ledges
have been discovered, as before stated, by their out-crop-
pings, and amongst these are those now operated upon by
the company. Many are now hidden by soil. These veins
have a general direction from north to south. Now, it is
therefore reasonable to conclude, from the evidence given of
immense wealth in gold in the talus or inclined plain just de-
scribed, that eventually when these mountains are tunnelled

28

from east to west, that these lodes will all be cut — when they
can be successfully attacked far below the surface, and drifted
in upon along their entire course. There can likewise be
no doubt, that water can be brought from the Pecos river
and used as water is used in California to wash, by hose, the
most of this auriferous soil and drift which lies around the
base of the mountains. In doing this the summits of many
new lodes will be uncovered; and when the hydraulic opera-
tions no longer remunerate — the water will come there to be
used in the far more profitable and steady business of crush-
ing ores from the quartz leads thus brought to light, and
from the quartz leads already known which lie above the
level to be reached by this water.

" These ideas are briefly given to show what capital and
skill will without a doubt eventually accomplish. For the
present, it may not be uninterestiDg to give some statistics
showing results to be obtained from the veins already opened.

"The cost of an eighteen horse-power steam engine with
fifteen stamps complete, put up upon the ground, will be
$12,000.

" The cost of a suitable building, to cover this machinery,
&c, will be, say, not over $3,000; total $15,000.

" Those who put up the mill should have $5,000 or $10,000
in goods to sell to hands and to people who come to wash
placer gold. This contemplates a capital to start on, of
from $20,000 to $25,000.

"To run your mill night and day, you want two engineers,
whose wages will be four dollars a day, each, including their
board. This amounts to $2,920 per annum. You want
two feeders at two and a half dollars a day, each, including
board, which, per annum, is equal to $1,8-25. You want
two plate tenders, whose wages, each, per day will be two
and a half dollars, including board; this is equal to $1,460
per annum. These plate tenders wheel in quartz and shovel
the tailings from the vats. You want three cords of wood
as fuel for each day of twenty-four hours run. This will
cost, delivered, $7 50 per day, or, $2,737 50 per annum.
The engineers handle the wood and keep up the fires, so

29

that no firemen need be employed. The cost of Jard, tamp-
ing, candles, &c, &c, will be, say, $2 50 per day. This is
equal per annum to $912 50. The cost of fifty pounds of
quicksilver, •which would be enough to last a year, would be
$75, including losses. The cost of extracting ore is $5 per
ton. The freight on the same, delivered at the mill is $2
per ton. The mill will crush nine tons every twenty-four
hours. This is equal to three thousand two hundred and
eighty-five tons per annum; which, at $7 a ton, delivered r?
the mill, is equal to $22,995. The wear and tear of ma-
chinery and mill is reckoned at five per cent, per annum. I
am told by engineers that this is a very liberal allowance.
In one year this will amount to $750.
" Recapitulation of annual cost.

Wages of two engineers ~ $2,920 00

Wages of two feeders 1,825 00

Wages of two plate tenders 1,460 00

Fuel 2,737 50

Lard, tamping, candles, &c, &c 912 50

Quicksilver 75 00

Cost of ore at mill - 22,995 00

Interest on cost of mill at 6 per cent 900 00

Wear and tear of mill 750 00

Total cost- — $34,575 00

" The following is the result of five small runs through
the mill of the !New Mexican Mining Company, made by
Dr. Michael Steck, the present superintendent :

22 tons yielded per ton $20 62

16 tons yielded per ton 36 00

16 tons yielded per ton 22 00

6 tons yielded per ton -— 33 33|-

3 tons yielded per ton 42 00

" That is to say, sixty-three tons produced $1,707 64; or
an average of $27 10 per ton. Much of this ore was refuse
ore, which was crushed mainly to get it out of the way.
The regular yield of average samples of ore, at the lowest
estimate, will be $30 per ton. This, in a year's run, Sun-

30

days included, would give $98,550. Now throw off twenty-
five per cent, to cover salary of superintendent, delays for
the Sabbath, and delays for repairs, and for unforseen con-
tingencies, and you throw off $24,637 50, which will leave
$73,912 50. Now deduct from this, expenses of running
the mill for a year, as is shown by the recapitulation of
annual costs, which is $34,575, and you have clear profit,
$39,337 50. This will give on the investment for one year,
on cost of mill, which is $15,000 — two hundred and sixty-two
per cent. For it must be recollected that all other expenses
have already been deducted. This does not include the
profits on the sale of goods. Two other mills of the same
capacity can be erected at two other springs in the hollow
where the present mill now stands, and one mill can be
erected near what is known as the 'Cunningham mine.*
This should be done, when the clear income of the company
will be increased to $157,350, which is four times the sum
cleared by one mill. This does not include the profit of the
store, and yet this gives six per cent, per annum on a capital
of $2,622,500. By having the 'cleaning up' in each mill
occur on a different day from the cleaning up in any other
mill, one superintendent could direct the business transacted
by all four mills. The ore is inexhaustible, even in the
mines already opened. Other mines on this ten miles square
can be opened, and there are known springs where still other
mills can be erected. By a system of tanks and reservoirs
to collect and hold surface water, any number of mills can
be run, and all this without making any calculations for
water coming from the Pecos. "When there is so much
material to be worked upon with profit, to have but one
mill, is the same as if you had a boundless supply of cotton,
and worked upon it with a factory running fifteen spindles.
" I have taken some little pains to prove to you by figures,
that here within sight of the city of Santa Fe, there is a
fund of wealth which bespeaks well for the future prosperity
of this part of New Mexico. I have written nothing of the
New Placers, which are known to be equally as rich and ex-
tensive ; nor have I alluded to the auriferous region in the

31

mountains to the west of Mr. Maxwell's ranch, on the
Cimarron river. Should I have time to visit and properly
examine these two last named placers, it will give me pleas-
ure to let you know the result of my observation.

"When the vast mineral, pastoral, and even agricultural
resources of New Mexico are well understood, it will require
no prophet to foresee that she will, one day, not far distant,
occupy a proud position as one of the States of the great
Republic.

" Very respectfully, your obedient servant,

"JAMES H. CARLETON.

After having written this letter, General Carleton visited
what are known as the New Placers, south of the Old Placer
described in the foregoing letter. What is called the San
Pedro grant includes the mineral region known as the New
Placer. It contains forty thousand acres, and lies about forty
miles south of the city of Santa Fe. It is accessible by ex-
cellent roads. Mining at the New Placer, we know, was car-
ried on as early as 1776. I give an extract from a letter
descriptive of the New Placer :

"Metropolitan Hotel,
"Washington, D. C, October 18, 1867.
" General : * * * I visited the New Placers in
November, 1865, and again in August of this year. Since
my first visit several new lodes have been discovered, and I
was informed by prospectors that in nearly every part of the
grant — which comprises, as I learn, some forty thousand
acres — lodes of gold-bearing quartz and of argentiferous ga-
lena, as well as veins of lead and of copper of a rich charac-
ter, can be found. I saw some exceedingly rich copper ore
from a newly discovered vein on this property. I have seen
tested some quartz taken from recently discovered lodes at
the New Placers, and found it to be rich in gold. You may
recollect that I sent some specimens which I took from the
Ramirez mine to Colonel Carey, and that I wrote to him a
letter about that particular mine. I have seen quartz crushed

32

at the Old Placers, and in July, of this year, I made some cal-
culations as to its value, which calculations appeared in the
Santa Fe Gazette on the 27th of that month. Now it is my
opinion that the Ramirez mine is even richer, per ton, than
the Ortiz mine, from which that quartz was taken. * * *
On the south side of the Old Placer mountains, and close to
the line of the New Placer, some gold mines have been found,
which, even at the surface, produced, fifty-three dollars per
ton. Mr. Hutchinson, who is developing these mines, in-
formed me that over the line, and within the boundaries of
the New Placer, he had found new lodes of auriferous quartz
just as rich. I have no hesitation in expressing the opinion
that within our whole country, so far as my observation has
extended, a piece of ground of the size of the New Placers
cannot be found which contains more or richer veins of the
precious metals than it does; and T would recommend that
good mills be at once erected for their extraction. As soon
as the Pacific railroad is built, and the surveys indicate that
it will run immediately by the New Placers, it is impossible
to conjecture how greatly that grant will be increased in
value. The grant, as you are aware, is uncommonly well
wooded, and even for grazing purposes, is equal to any in
New Mexico.

" I am, general, very truly yours,

"JAMES H. CAKLETON.
" General John C. McFerran,

UU. S. Army, Washington, D. C."

About the middle of July, 1867, some gold fields were
discovered on the head waters of the little Cimarron, be-
tween Maxwell's ranch and the Taos valley; say thirty miles
west of Mr. Maxwell's. These promise to yield placer gold
in great abundance. A party of gentlemen visited these
fields in the month of August last. One of them wrote to
me: "The placers were just beginning to be opened. The
miners had but few tools, and were experiencing great diffi-
culty in getting lumber to make sluices. One company of
five men with a sluice ninety feet long were taking out seven

33

hundred dollars in gold per week, others were just com-
mencing, and were realizing less, but a fair remuneration,
considering the poor appliances they had with which to work.
By October 1867, the company of five above alluded to were
taking out one hundred dollars apiece per day," * * *
" Of course all do not do as well, but experiments made by
prospectors show that the fields are many miles in extent."
One company is now constructing a ditch or canal to bring
water upon portions of these fields. This ditch will cost
$100,000, and yet the parties interested in its construction
are certain soon to be reimbursed for all their out-lay.

A town has been laid out near the principal washings; it
is called "Virginia City," and will without doubt soon be a
place of much importance. There is hardly a day that new
discoveries of gold are not made in that portion of New
Mexico."

If Congress will only give some help to these hard work-
ing men, by constructing a good wagon road from Maxwell's
ranch to Virginia city, and it can be done for the small sum
of thirty or forty thousand dollars, all kinds of supplies can
be readily got in at cheap rates; when more and more poor
people will flock thither, and will soon give back to the
Government, in return, the gold now so much needed.

This is no chimera. We know its reality. All we want is
a little help here and there, until we in New Mexico can get
a start, then the country will see that we can help others as
well as ourselves.

The placers^ or gold fields, near Virginia city have become
rich from the disintregation of gold-bearing quartz veins in
the mountains east, and in the range of mountains west of
the extensive valley in which they lie. This valley is called
the Moreno pass, and the fields are called the Moreno mines.
Many of the lodes whence this gold has come have not yet
been uncovered; but that they exist near these fields is as cer-
tain as that a spring exists whence a rivulet flows. All along
the cordilleras of the Rocky Mountains, extending from the
Moreno mines northward to Pike's Peak, in Colorado; on
each slope of them are found placer diggings. On the Rio

34

Grande side of the mountains at the Hondo, near Taos; at
the Culebra, near Fort Garland; at the Saugre de Christo,
near the pass of that name, gold has been found in paying
quantites. On the east side, as well, prospectors have found
good placers from the Eaton mountains to the Eincou de
Tecolote.

Near the Moreno mines, high up a neighboring mountain,
is one of the richest copper mines in the world. A company-
consisting of Mr. William H. Moore, Lucian 33. Maxwell,
"William Kroenig, Nicholas S. Davis, and others, are drifting
through the mountain far below the outcropping of this lode.
They have already run a gallery six feet wide by seven feet
high, through the solid rock, to a distance of over two hun-
dred feet; and expect, within another hundred feet, to strike
the main vein, when countless tons of the ore can be dropped
down from above, and be easily run out on a tram-way and
taken to furnaces for smelting.

In the Tejeras cariou, near Albuquerque, several very rich
leads of copper have been discovered, and a company has
procured from the Territorial Legislature a charter for work-
ing them. The ore from these mines is of the very best
quality, whilst water and fuel in abundance, for necessary
smelting purposes, are just at hand.

The Nacirniento Mining Company, also chartered by the
Legislature, has an abundance of copper ores, yielding from
sixty-three to seventy-one per cent. These mines are at the
head-waters of the Puerco river, near Abiquieu. Gold is also
found near Embudo, and here there is a vein of silver ore of
great promise. It is called the Junction Lead. Near this
point are extensive lodes of iron; and cinnabar is found in
large quantities near Las Truches, on the trail from Santa
Fe to Taos.

In the Sierra de los Ladrones, near Limitar, as well as in
the San Andres mountains, north of the San Augustine pass,
silver lodes of great size, are known to exist. So, too, in the
Sacramento mountains, south of Fort Stanton, gold, silver,
and lead, have been found ; but, owing to the hostilities of

35

the Mescalero Apaches, prospectors have not yet been able
satisfactorily to explore the lodes.

In the Zuni mountains, near Fort Wingate, and in many
places in the old Navajoe country, gold and silver have been
discovered; and, from surface indications, it is believed that
very rich lodes are there.

Thus it will be seen by a glance at the map that, in nearly
every quarter of that extensive Territory, the mineral wealth
heretofore hidden beneath the earth's surface has been
tracked to its bed. And now the people of New Mexico,
with as much propriety as those in California, can honestly
and earnestly exclaim "we have found it."

We now come to the inquiry : " Why do not the people
of New Mexico themselves develop their gold and silver and
copper leads?" Let me answer.

We have in that Territory a population of, say, in round
numbers, one hundred thousand souls. Of these, say fifteen
thousand are Pueblo Indians and Indians on a reservation.
The mass of the people are very poor. The most of the pros-
pectors are expert in the business of prospecing and are mainly
discharged soldiers who belonged to the California volunteers.
During their term of service, whilst on campaigns against
Indians, and whilst marching from one point to another of
the Territory, they saw indications of its riches. So, when
the time came for their discharge, a great many of them pre-
ferred to remain in New Mexico rather than to return to
California. It was then that a new impetus was given to the
prospecting of the country in search of its hidden mines.
The results have startled with their greatness the most san-
guine and enthusiastic believer that gold and silver abounded
in large quantities in that Territory.

Let us take the labors of one prospector as an example.
With what little money he had saved up in his military ser-
vice, the soldier has bought a few tools, and, perhaps, a
mule, or pony, a rifle, and a sack of flour, some bacon, sugar,
coffee, and salt. In portions of the country, where the In-
dians were very bad, several of these prospectors would
join together in their searches ; when there was but little

36

or no danger, they would sally forth alone, camping out
"wherever night overtook them. A lode is found and the
miner at once sinks a hole in the quartz to procure speci-
mens to test its value. These specimens are crushed by
pounding with a hammer until they are as tine as flour.
This quartz-flour is then washed in a large horn spoon, the
particles of gold being the heaviest, gradually go to the bot-
tom, whilst the particles of quartz are allowed to pass off
over the edge of the spoon. Shortly nothing is left but the
gold. "We will suppose that the vein has proved to be rich.
Then the law requires that certain steps should be taken — a
certain amount of labor be peformed — certain surveys be
made, and, finally, if no one contests the miner's right to
his discovery, he can get a patent from the Government, and
the mine is his, as much as a farmer's farm is his when he
has got his deed for it. I may say, in passing, that new leg-
islation should be had on this subject, simplifying the mode
by which a poor man can get his patent, and making it shorter
as to time, and cheaper as to money.

The prospector has now found his mine, and has got his
title to it. It may yield at the rate of twenty, thirty, forty,
fifty, eighty, or more dollars to the ton, and be inexhaustible
in extent. He is a rich man, one might suppose. Not so;
he. is still poor, and has to go off somewhere and labor even
for his daily bread. ISTow, the example here given is that
of hundreds of miners who have found hundreds of mines
they know to be good. It takes capital to buy and bring
machinery to crush this quartz and save the gold. But why
do not people with capital do this ? Because, as yet, the
country is not made accessible by railroad. Wealthy men
will not make the journey unless they can travel rapidly
and with ease and security ; and the poor miner, like the
Pueblo Indian, who turns to the east eveiy morning, hoping
to see, coming thence, the divine form of Montezuma, so
does he turn his eyes in the same direction, and pray for the
day when the rich man with his money will come to be a
partner with the poor man with his mine.

If a private citizen owned a fine lot of trees worth a mil-

37

lion of dollars if gotten to market, and it would cost him
five thousand dollars to make a road suitable to the getting
of them out of the forest, so that he could make sale of
them, would he not even borrow money, if necessary, to raise
this live thousand dollars ? Certainly he would. Well, now,
the United States have locked up, in these quartz veins, in
jSTew Mexico, millions of the precious metals. Every man
to-day is paying thirty or forty cents on the dollar merely for
the want of these metals. Think of that sum ! Yet the
nation does not seem to be alive to its interests as the private
citizen would be to his; and goes on, and on, and on, for-
getting the hardship to especially the poor who for lack of
gold, with scanty means, have to pay high prices for the
necessaries of life; forgetting the enterprising yet poor
miner, he who has here been figured, waiting for his Monte-
zuma; forgetting the employment which it would give to
many of its brave defenders who in vain now seek labor;
forgetting that at once when a railroad runs through JSTew
Mexico, a hundred dollars will come back where one dollar
has beeu invested, and yet the logic which would convince a
private citizen what he should do to increase his wealth,
ought to hold good, if starting from the same premises, with
the country at large.

I make some extracts from a letter written from the office
of the Union Pacific Railway, which touch directly upon the
matter under consideration.

" Our preliminary surveys of the present summer have
discovered a favorable line to this point, whose highest ele-
vation at the head of Caiion Blanco, in latitude 35° north, 60
miles east of Albuquerque, is 7,136 feet above the level of
the sea. By these surveys, necessarily preliminary and less
minute than those of definite location, a practicable route for
railroad construction was found, avoiding heavy gradients
and expensive grading, and requiring the maximum grade
permitted by law for the Pacific railroads at only two or
three short intervals, not exceeding twenty-five miles in all.
The distance from Pond creek to Albuquerque, by the pre-
liminary survey, is 464 miles, or from the initial point of our

38

road on the Missouri river to the Rio Grande at Albuquer-
que, 872 miles, which may be reduced upon the definite
location of the road. From Albuquerque, surveys, by the
35th parallel and the Gila river, through Arizona and thence
to San Francisco, are now in progress, and favorable accounts
of the routes traversed have been received from the engineer-
ing parties. It is expected that these surveys will reach San
Francisco early in February, this company will be in full
possession of the topographical features of the country ex-
amined by its engineers.

" The route across the divide of the waters of the Smoky
hill and Arkansas rivers, is chiefly valuable for grazing pur-
poses; but, upon reaching the valley of the Arkansas, vast
regions are opened for settlement, which, for varied pro-
ductions— embracing all the cereals, fruit and grapes — are
nowhere surpassed. The salubrity and healthfulness of the
climate, and the abundance of coal and timber, make it the
most agreeable unocupied country in the United States ; and
when to these advantages are added the certainty of the pro-
duction of the precious metals, in amounts hitherto unknown,
no region can be more desirable, or more profitably developed ;
and so the country alternates all the way to the Rio Grande,
no portion valueless, but all adapted to grazing or agricul-
ture; and, as regards the mineral wealth along the route
thither, it may be safely said that the amount is only limited
by the labor bestowed in its development.

" Having thus briefly designated the route upon which the
company requests extension of subsidy, I will ask your atten-
tion to a concise enumeration of the resources of the country
to be traversed, with their present known development, and
the probability of their immense increase when quick and
cheap rail transportation is afforded. Crossing the Raton
mountain, and entering the Territory of New Mexico, our
geologist discovered in the single coal deposit near Maxwell's
hacienda, fifty miles northeast of Fort Union, veins of bitu-
minous coal extending for a range of sixty miles, one of
which, on Vermijo canon, was ten feet in thickness, and was
examined for an area of ten miles square. This coal, when

39

analyzed by Messrs "Williams and Moss, analytical chemists
of Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, yielded 53.90 per cent, of
fixed carbon alone, and produced 437.6 lbs. of illuminating
gas per ton of 2,000 lbs., equivalent to 7439.2 cubic feet.
These chemists report this coal to compare very favorably
with any of those regarded as the best for generating steam,
and with the majority of those used for manufacturing illu-
minating gas. Anthracite coal is found in the Placer moun-
tain, near Santa Fe; bituminous coal on the west side of the
Rio Grande, near Albuquerque; and very extensive coal beds
farther south on that river near Fort Craig. So successful
have been our researches for coal supplies, that our chief
engineer characterizes the New Mexican coal fields as ' the
great natural depot of fuel, not only for this Pacific railway,
but for the country contiguous to it, for, at least, as far east
as Fort Harker, Kansas.' And there can be no doubt that
our discoveries of the past summer alone have eliminated the
fuel question from the obstacles or embarrassments of a rail-
way across the continent, and made its ample fuel supply no
longer problematical.

" The great expense of transporting the heavier and more
effective quartz-crushing machinery across the eight hundred
miles of wagon roads between the mines and railway, have
heretofore nearly restricted lsTew Mexican mining to placer
working; the exception has been the cheaper, though less
effective, modes of quartz milling. In this rude and unpro-
ductive manner, the mines of New Mexico have been worked
for more than two centuries, adding large supplies to the
demands of commerce. The ores of that Territory are of a
most favorable character for easy and cheap reduction, and
are inexhaustible. The company has the most conclusive
evidence of this fact. It is asserted by those who have had
good means of acquiring the knowledge, that the mines of
Arizona are richer, and, with railroad facilities, would be
more productive than any and all yet wrought upon the con-
tinent. The explorations of the company have not progressed
sufficiently to enable it to verify the assertion to the fullest

40

extent, but, so far as it has received information thereon, the
mines are astonishingly rich.

"An abundance of native Mexican and Pueblo labor ex-
ists in New Mexico and Arizona, which can be made avail-
able immediately upon the passage of the bill, and by ming-
ling with our own labor under proper direction, a healthy
industry will be developed, and the native artisans instructed,
Christianized and prepared for useful citizenship. That this
labor can be maintained without requiring supplies from the
States, and is adequate to building at least five hundred miles
through these Territories, were considerations which strongly
recommended this projected route to the company. And
with the labor indigenous to the soil, the presence of iron ore
and the coal with which it may be wrought, must necessarily
induce the erection of factories and furnaces in New Mexico
and Arizona, where now only the miner's ranche is seen.
Capital will find useful and lucrative employment, and every
branch of industry, co-operative with the work of construc-
tion, speedy development, peopling the present wilderness
in a day. And as these mines of gold and silver become
known and successfully worke'd, how vast will be their in-
fluence upon the national currency, to say nothing of the
creation of other wealth from trade and commerce. The
company believes that the construction of its road would
give security to the inhabitants of the Territories of New
Mexico and Arizona against the Indians, the necessity for
which, as regards those recently located south of the Arkan-
sas, is apparent, while the proposed line of road seems to it
admirably adapted to that purpose."

Then, aside from the impetus which a railroad would give
to the development of the minerals of New Mexico and
Arizona, a thought comes in here, that the red man must
give way before the iron-horse, as the army of Assyria
perished when breathed upon by the angel of death ; and
when once the Indian ceases his depredations, the flocks and
herds of New Mexico, Colorado, Texas, and Arizona will
become so numerous as to afford mutton and beef to the
poor all over the country at vastly cheaper rates. So you

41

will increase the value of a day's labor, by making money
more valuable, when compared with the price of food. This
may be an exception to some of the rules of political econ-
omy, but it is true nevertheless.

I quote from a very interesting paper on the Union Pacific
Railway, the following remarks about cattle raised in Texas
and driven up to a station on that road :

"The cattle here are grazing all over this magnificent
valley under the care of herders. The drovers usually herd
after arrival from thirty to sixty days to recruit the animals
before selling. And such pasturage ! The steer that would
not fat here visibly would have starved to death in the gar-
den of Eden. But just look at them as they wacle in the
grass, and see their Fulton market roundness and glossiness.
With difficulty I credit the statement that there are 25,000
head here now, waiting shipment. Yet here they are, and
10,000 more are known to be on the way here, and full
50,000 will have arrived at the close of the season. Four times
as many would have been driven here as have been, if the
stock-men of the southwest had known that there was a safe
and sure way out from the lock-up which the war first, and
toll-demanding ruffians afterward, had established. So say
the most intelligent of these Texan drovers, and they also say
that 200,000 head of beeves will surely be here next year for
sale and shipment. Now mark: These animals, 'beeves,'
can be bought by thousands in Texas at from $8 to $10 per
head in gold, or $12 to $14 in currency. They can be driven
to Abilene at an additional cost of not over $2 a head, in
from five to eight weeks' time. They can be shipped from
here to St. Louis at $100 a car load, and to Chicago for $150
a car. Joseph McCoy tells me that they can be afforded in
Chicago at four cents gross, with satisfactory margins to
drovers, shippers, and railroads. Surely the butchers of
more than one city and State have got to come down, and
surely there was grateful reason in the toast the Union Pacific
railway, eastern division, as the cheapener of beef to the
people of the United States."

These remarks would have the same force when applied

42

to the flocks and herds of New Mexico. "He is a benefac-
tor who makes one blade of grass grow where none grew
before." So, too, that government is far seeing which shapes
its policy so that its poor can have a plenty of good, whole-
some food at cheap rates ; which for ten cents will put into
the kettle of the poor man two pounds of beef, when for the
same sum he could before only find one pound. The gov-
ernment which can do this, and does do it, is as a benign
mother providing for her children. . The statesmen who
lose sight of such matters now will neither benefit the com-
munity at large nor write their names in capitals on the
scroll, where already have been inscribed the names of those
whom the people venerate.

Pertinent to this matter, I find a very interesting letter in
the Cincinnati Times, of the 8th instant. It was written by
Mr. Edgar Conkling, and it gives me pleasure here to re-
produce many of Mr. Conklings conclusive arguments :

" Cincinnati, January 6, 1868.

" Mr. Editor : The very general reference by the press of
our country to the suffering condition of our 'working men
and women' from want of employment, arouses our sympa-
thies and warrants the serious consideration of our manufac-
turers, business men, and all good citizens, how to restore
our national industry to a state of prosperity? How shall
we materially increase the consumption of the products of
American labor, as well as protect them from foreign pro-
ducts? It is encouraging to know that Congress appreciates
such a deplorable couclition of our most important interests,
and is giving some evidence of adopting a financial policy
that will encourage capitalists to engage in the construction
of railroads from important commercial and manufacturing
cities, through sections of country warranting speedy and
profitable returns. *****

" But the disturbance of the national industry is too gen-
eral to be materially affected by mere local projects, while it
is admitted that, in many branches, our manufacturing facil-
ities of production are greater than our country can consume;

43

hence the loss in such investments, while our mechanics and
laboring people are being demoralized and suffering for the
necessaries of life.

" In a great measure, this state of things is the result of
the recent rebellion, and protracted reconstruction. Hun-
dreds of thousands of our happy and well-to-do ' working
men ' left their occupations to maintain the Government,
while others were employed in manufacturing war materials,
and thus our national industry was generally disturbed.

" No government on earth can so readily restore its na-
tional industry to prosperity as this. None were ever under
greater obligations to its citizens. No subjects more faithful,
or worthy of needed aid. No reason exists for protracting this
state of affairs, uuless from lack of statesmanship and interest
in our servants in Congress assembled.

" Our Government is possessed of an undeveloped terri-
tory, unsurpassed for climate and latent wealth, which, on
being opened by national highways, will reach and mature
a Pacific commerce much greater than all our Atlantic com-
merce.

" It has enterprising capitalists, desirous and ready to im-
prove that territory, and make it productive of taxes, soon
exceeding all the aid loaned by the Government. Ordina-
narily, it is difficult to enlist capitalists in such public works,
and it is fortunate for our Government, at the present time,
that such foreseeing the great and certain benefits that must
speedily result to themselves, the Government, and the peo-
ple, are willing to risk their means, credit, and reputation.

" They simply ask the Government to loan them, well
secured, not exceeding one-third the cost of such roads,
making that territory worth twenty fold its present value,
while giving the Government cheaper facilities of governing
and transportation.

" Such aid by the Government is the only practicable and
legitimate method of securing such facilities of transporta-
tion, and creating and controlling the Pacific commerce.

" Those distant agricultural lands are worthless, only as
they are connected by railroads with the mines; with cheap

44

food and transportation for miners, the increased products
of the mines of the precious metals will keep pace with our
growing wealth and commercial wants, and warrant a safe
return to specie payments. But there are large sections of
rich mineral lands destitute of fuel and water, and hence
cannot have reduction facilities, that will he dependent on
shipping their ores, by railroads, for reduction, itself creat-
ing a large revenue to the railroads, while redeeming the
wealth of such sections, otherwise worthless.

" The advantages claimed are worthy of consideration in
the most prosperous times. But in view of our national
obligations to our workingmen and their condition, and the
depression of our manufacturing interests, and the necessity
of making that territory share in our taxes and payment of
our public debt, there should be no hesitancy on the part of
Congress to promote our National interests. It should be
done in view of reciprocating the obligations of the Govern-
ment to a people that maintained it when assailed by traitors,
even if, in spending one hundred millions of dollars there
were no other returns but gratefulness for an act of justice.

"Never was there so much of necessity for a mutual union
of labor and capital. Both are suffering for want of that
union. Mere demagogues will seek to prevent it, but work-
ingmen's logic is sharpened from the want of food, and they
will readily discover the motives of those seeking their votes.

" Our territory and national wants, as well as our Pacific
commerce, need the three Pacific railroads — North, Central,
and Southern — and their healthful competing influence.

" The three trunk lines will cost, at least, $450,000,000,
single track, and not exceeding one-third of that amount is
asked as a loan of the Government in its bonds, secured by
the whole, as the route progresses. So far as the roads have
now progressed, the Government has profited beyond the aid
loaned, while the companies are doing a business warrant-
ing their ability to meet the interest and debt as it matures.

"But if the 'penny-wise and pound-foolish' idea must
prevail, that the Government can't afford to increase its in-
debtedness for such purposes and returns, Senator Ramsey's

45

proposition is worthy of consideration, of asking Congress
to guarantee the interest of five per cent, on the stock or
bonds of the railroad companies, to the amount of $20,000,
per mile for a limited time, which, on 2,000 miles west of
Lake Superior, would be a guarantee of five per cent, on
$40,000,000, or only $2,000,000 per annum, the company
meeting the interest from sales of its lands, business and
services for the Government.

" This form of aid would enable that company to borrow
the needed funds, while the use of that road to the Govern-
ment would be more than equal to such interest, to say
nothing of advanced value of the territory and our com-
merce.

" The aid can, and should be afforded, in some shape.

"Hundreds of thousands of our 'workingmen' will thus
be benefitted in various ways. Some will be engaged in
making the road beds, buildings, &c, and others in making
the construction and materials, and running machinery for
transporting, &c. But all this is but the beginning of larger
outlays to which the Government is not asked to contribute.
The whole must be kept in repair. Double tracks and
branch roads, increased machinery, &c, all exceeding first
outlays, in a few years. Cities, towns, farms, mines, mills,
&c, are but results, and will create a greater outlay, than
cost of the railroads. This vast increased consumption of
products of American labor, will tend greatly to equalize
and restore to prosperity our national industry, greatly in-
creasing our national wealth, and ability to support the
Government and pay its debt. If this is all true, is it not
the interest and the duty of all citizens to urge on Congress
immediate action ?

"If the measure succeeds satisfactory to capitalists, con-
tracts for all that is needed will speedily follow, materially
affecting our general interests."

A volume could be written showing the truth of these
remarks; and not one line to prove them to be fallacies. What-
ever other roads may be built, the laws of climate will make
that which should run through New Mexico the most agree-

46

able to the traveller and the most certain to meet the de-
mands of trade. It requires but little forecast, and study of
the commercial necessities of the world, to see very nearly
where the great arteries of railroad communication must
pulsate across our continent. There can be no question but
that one line must eventually run westward from Memphis,
to San Diego, California, or to a porton the Gulf of Cali-
fornia, which latter, if we cannot acquire it by purchase, we
can have access to it by. the comity of a sister republic.
That line will run across the rich mineral region now rapidly
developing in the southern portion of New Mexico. Nor can
there be a doubt, that another line will run somewhere near
the 35th parallel of latitude. To connect these two by a track
in the valley of the E-io Grande will be found not only to be
profitable, but necessary. Here then you have an outline of
a railroad system in this great territory, an outline that will
be filled in by other roads, to be projected by more local in-
terests. And the heavy trains, freighted with the costly pro-
ducts of China, Japan, and ITinclostan, can be shot along
these roads with no obstruction from ice and snow. Then
will come that proud day for New Mexico, so often predicted
and now so near realization. In room, then, of being isolated
from the commerce of the world, and from the hourly intel-
ligence which elsewhere now flashes along the wires of the
telegraph, she will be in the direct channels of that com-
merce and of that intelligence.

I have said nothing of the hot springs and of the mineral
springs of New Mexico. These are found in almost every
section of the country. At Las Vegas; near Taos; at Ojo
Caliente; at Jemez; near FortMcKae; near Fort Selden;
near the Miembres river, and at many other points. Their
curative qualities have long been known, and the poor as
well as the rich, who may happen to be infirm, flock to them
with almost the same faith that they will find relief, as those
who " when the waters were troubled," descended into the
Pool of Bethsaida. Once the railroad touches New Mexico,
these springs, which for volume and medicinal qualities ex-
ceed any of those now so celebrated in the Atlantic States,

47

or in Europe, will attract thousands from all points of the
civilized world to drink of their healing waters. And, then,
in room of having tourists go from our own country to spend
their money in sight-seeing abroad, they will visit and won-
der at the magnificence of this American Switzerland; whilst
the wealthy of other lands, from beyond both seas, will be-
come tourists in our mountains, here to have their villas and
their chateaux; here to breathe the pure air, and to enjoy the
most sublime scenery to be found in the world. The Genii
in the Eastern Tale could never have been more potent in
their works of enchantment than Capital and Labor will be,
when giving to New Mexico, as the fruit of their union, a
railroad to connect her with the commerce of the two oceans,
and make her known to the wealthy and cultivated through-
out the world.

CHARLES P. CLEVER.

Remonstrance oi the New Mexico Mining Company and 300 Citi-
zens of- New Mexico against the indefinite extension of the
Atlantic and Pacific Railroad charter.

To the Honorable Senate and House of Representatives of the United States of America, in Congress

assembled.

The undersigned, proprietors of the New Mexico Mining Coiaipany and other citizens re-
spectfully remonstrate against the passage of the present bill before Congress,' extending the
chartered rights of the Atlantic and Pacific Eailroad Company.

The undersigned own valuable mines and other property in the Territory of New Mexico.
They remonstrate against the present bill relative to the Atlantic and Pacific railroad, because
in their belief it will delay for an indefinite period the construction of a road to New Mexico, by
continuing a large land grant to a company that has not built and cannot build the road. Not-
withstanding this, it occupies the line of the 35th parallel, and keeps all other companies from
building to New Mexico and on to the Pacific.

By the charter of the company, approved July 27, 1866, it was authorized to build from
Springfield, Missouri, through the Indian Territory, and a part of Texas, to New Mexico, and
thence to California. It received a land grant of forty sections pei; mile, which of course did not
apply through the Indian Territory nor in Texas, but did apply from Springfield to the boundary
line of Missouri, and also through New Mexico and Arizona, and it; was provided that the United
States should extinguish the Indian title.

But it was also provided by section 9 that the company should commence work within two
years, and should complete not less than fifty miles per year after the second year, and also that
the United States, upon any breach of the conditions of the act, might do any and all acts neces-
sary to ensure the speedy completion of the road.

Notwithstanding this immense grant thus monopolized by a few individuals, the company
have utterly failed to comply with the conditions imposed. According to the conditions, there
should be completed more than one hundred miles west of Springfield before July 27, 1870, but
the company have now completed less than fifty miles west of Springfield, and will not complete
more than fifty miles west of Springfield by July 27, 1870.

The company having, therefore, forfeited their chartered rights by gross neglect, there is no
obligation on the part of the United States to renew them.

But the pending bill provides for renewing them indefinitely ; that is, for a certain time after
the Indian title shall be extinguished.

The results of this extraordinary demand of the company, if coiiiplied with, will be as follows :

The dozen individuals who own the franchise of an immense la.nd grant to the Pacific ocean,
and who have built less than fifty miles in four years, will be continued indefinitely in possession
of a land grant with which to build a railroad through New Mexico and Arizona, which land

grant will- be separated from the western end of their completed rof
and cannot be made available until these six hundred miles of road i

id by about six hundred miles,
ire built. The greater portion

}

of these six hundred miles is in the Indian Territory and Texas, whnre the land grant cannot be
made available for many years, if ever.

Yet it is proposed to continue in the hands of these few individuals this immense grant
through New Mexico and Arizona until the almost insuperable obs tacles to building a railroad
through the. Indian Territory are overcome. The undersigned are 'confident that no such legis-
lation will pass Congress if fully understood.

In addition to a grant from Springfield through the Indian Territory, the company have
had a right to build a branch from the Canadian river back to Fort [Smith, Arkansas, which will
be entirely within the Indian Territory. The main line of the road will be about three hundred
and fifty miles in the Indian Territory, and the Fort Smith branch about two hundred miles
within that Territory. The land grant to the Atlantic and Pacific Railroad Company within that
Territory will, if the Indian title is extinguished, amount to about fourteen million acres. The
United States, by passing the present bill, pledge themselves to extinguish that title for the
benefit of this railroad company. The lands are of the very best quality, and will cost the Gov-
ernment from three to five dollars per acre. At the lower figure, the Government pledges itself
to pay from its Treasury forty-two million dollars for the benefit j of the Atlantic and Pacific
Railroad Company. j

Is the Government prepared to do this ? Is it prepared to pledge itself to a railroad company
to extinguish the Indian title in the Indian Territory, and at a large expense to renew this for-
feited franchise for the benefit of a little handful of corporators ? The remonstrants believe not.

The remonstrants believe that it needs no argument to demo istrate that continuing this
valuable franchise and land grant through the Indian .Territory aid through New Mexico and
Arizona, the construction of a railroad to be postponed until the Government settles the Indian
question and extinguishes the Indian title, will result in delaying th 3 construction of any railroad
to New Mexico, and will deprive that Territory of railroad communcation for many years.

It is perfectly feasible to build a railroad through Kansas t) New Mexico, avoiding the
Indian Territory.

The Atlantic and Pacific railroad, completed line, is now seven hundred miles from the Rio
Grande, while the Kansas Pacific road is now within five hundred .riles of the Rio Grande. A
branch from this latter road to New Mexico can be constructed witiout passing through Indian
reservations, and if authorized by Congress, could be built withy
Under the present Atlantic and Pacific Railroad bill, the road of
New Mexico for five or ten years, and then only at a cost to the Un
two million dollars^, which the remonstrauts have not belie\
to pay. \

Wherefore, the remonstrants pray the rejection of t 3 propositions of the

Atlantic and Pacific bill, and for such measures as will s] ) the people of New

Mexico railroad communication with the States east of the

two years from this date,
hat company will not reach
ed States Treasury of forty-
ates would be willing

JOHN L. KID WELL,

President.

CRISTOBAL ARMIJO,
HENRY SPRINGER,
JUAN C. ARMIJO,
SANTIAGO L. HUBBELL,
AMBROSE ARMIJO,
J. BONAFACIO CHAVES,
JOSE L. PEREA,

. JONKS,

lec'y and Treasurer.

EN STEVENS,
JR ARMIJO,
TCMAS C. De BACA,
MAS C. GUTIERREZ,
& C. HUNING,
& S. ZECKENDORFF,
And 300 Others.

May 14, 1870.

CONSTITUTION

OK THE Ay

PREAMBLE.

We, 1 lie people of New Mexico, in order to establish justice, to fa-
cilitate the welfare aDfl assure the happiness and liberty of ourselves
and our posterity, recognizing with grateful hearts the goodness of
the Supreme Ruler of the Universe and imploring His aid and direc-
tion do ordain and establish this constitution or form of Government,
mutually agreeing to constitute ourselves into a free and independent
State by the name of the State of New Mexico; with the boundaries
that the Territory of New Mexico may have at the time it shall lie
admitted as a state in the Union of the United States under this
Constitution.

•ARTICLE X.

Declaration of Plights.

Section I. All men are born free and equal and have certain na-
tural, inherent and inalienable rights, among which are life, liberty
and the pursuit of happiness. Therefore no person will be held by law
to serve as a servant or a slave.

Sec. II. All power is inherent in the people, all free government
is founded on their authority. Therefore the people have the inalien-
able right to establish government, to alter, reform or change the
same entirely when their security or happiness demand it.

Sec. III. The- Constitution of the United States and the laws
made and those which shall be made in conformity to the same, and
all treaties made under the authority of the United States are and
shall be the Supreme law of this State and the Judges of this State
are and shall be governed by the same notwithstanding anything
in the Constitution or laws of this State to the contrary.

Sec. IV. All men have a natural and irrevocable right to wor-
ship God according to the dictates of their own conscience; which
right shall not be interrupted nor taken away ; and no preference shall
be given by law to any religious society or mode of worship.

Sec. V. No religions test shall be required as a qualification for
any otiice of honor or profit in this State. The civil rights of any
citizen in no manner shall be diminished or increased by reason of

his religions opinion?, except as provided hereafter in this Constitu-
tion.

Sec. VI. Any person may freely speak, write and publish his sen-
timents upon any subject, being responsible for the abuse of this
liberty.

See. VII. There shall be no law restraining the liberty of speech
or of the press.

Sec. VIII. The people shall be secure in their persons, houses.
papers, and possessions from unreasonable search; amino warrant
shall issue unless upon probable cause supported by affidavit and
the place, the house, and the person to be searched shall be desig-
nated as near as possible.

Sec. IX. No private property shall be taken or applied for public
purposes without, a just compensation, unless with the consent of
the owner.

Sec. X. The right of trial by jury will not be denied; but the Le-
gislature may authorize the trial, when the matter litigated shall not
exceed five dollars by a jury of six persons.

Sec. XI In all criminal prosecutions the accused shall have the
right of a prompt and public trial by an impartial jury ; to be informed
of the nature of the accusations against him, and confronted by the
witnesses against, hirn, to have process executed, to compel the at-
tendance of witnesses in his defence; and to be heard by himself or
his counsel.

• Sec. XII. No person shall be held to answer for a criminal offence
unless by a presentation or indictment by a Grand Jury or in cases of
public accusations or in cases of conviction before a justice of the
Peace.

Sec. XIII. No person after being found not guilty in a competent
court shall lie tried for the same offence ; and all persons before
being convicted shall have the right to give bail with sufficient se-
curities except i& Capital offenses, where the evidence of guilt is
clear or the presumption of the same is great : and the writ of habe-
as corpus shall not be suspended, unless in cases of revolution or
invasion or when the public security requires if.

Sec. XIV. No exorbitant bail shall be required, exorbitant fines
shall not lie imposed nor cruel or unknown punishment inflicted.

Sec. XV. The military shall be subject and in subordination to
the civil power: no standing army shall be maintained by this State
in time of peace: no soldier shall be quartered in any house without
the consent of the owner in time of war except in the manner de-
signated by law.

Sec. XVI. No person in this State except those who are employ-
ed in the army or navy of the United States shall be subject to cor-
poral punishment under the law.

Sec. XVII. All citizens shall have the right to carry arms in the
legal defense of themselves and the State.

Sec. XVIII, No convictions shall work a corruption of blood or
confiscation of property.

Sec. XIX. No expostfaeto or refractory law diminishing the obli-
gation of contracts shall be enacted.

Sec. XX. Emigration -to this State shall not be prohibited. No
citizen of this State shall be banished under any act.

Sec. XXI. No distinction shall be made by law among resident
aliens and citizens in reference to the possessions or the transference
of properly. Provided, that all lands, within the State of New Mex-
ico, granted by the Governments of Spain and Mexico, will remain

—3—

according and as specifted by the treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo con-
liri'ood by both governments.

Sec. XXIT. The people shall have the right, to convene freely in
public places, to take counsel for the welfare of the community, to
express their opinions to their representatives and ask for the relief
of their wrongs.

Sec. XXIII. No '.lower to suspend the laws shall be exercised
except by the authority of the Legislature.

. XX [V. This enumeration of rights shall not be construed to
diminish or deny the other rights retained by the people.

-A^ZR/TICX-iIE IX.

Suffrage and Elections.

Suction I. All male citizens of the age of twenty-one years
and upwards belonging to any of the following classes and who
have resided in tins State for six months previous to any elec-
tion shall be qualified as a voter at such election: First, Citizens of
the United States residing in this State. Second. All persons of
foreign birth who have declared their intention to become citizens
of the United States in conformity to the laws of Congress on the
ct of naturalization.

Sec. II. All elections ol the people will be held at such times and
places in the different counties, cities, and villages as will be desig-
nated by law.

Sec. III. All elections will be equal and free and all votes will be
given by ballot.

Sec. IV. No person will be held to have lost his residence in
this State by reason ot his absence on business of the United States
or of the State.

See. V". Xo soldier or marine in the army or navy of the United
States will be, considered a resident of this State inconsequence of
being stationed within the same.

Sec. VI, Any person will be disqualified to hold any office dur-
ing the tune for which he may have been elected or appointed, who
shall have given or offered any bribe, or threat, or recompense in or-
der to obtain his election or appointment.

Sec. VII. In all cases, except treason, felony or breach of the
peace, voters will be free from arrest going to elections, during their.
lance, and returning from the same.

Sec. VIII. Any person who shall challenge or accept a challenge
to tight a duel, or who shall knowingly carry a challenge to any other
person, or shall go out of this State to fight a duel shall be ineligible
to any office of honor, confidence or profit.

Sec. IX. The right to vote of citizens of the United States who
live in this State will not be denied or abridged by reason of race,
color, or previous condition of servitude; and it shall be the duty of
the Legislature to enforce this provision by appropriate Legisla-
tion.

Sec. X. The Legislature shall provide by law a uniform registra-
tion of the names of voters in this State that possess the qualifica-
tions prescribed in this article; and until the Legislature shall here-
after pass an act for the registration of voters the law now inforce
upon the subject of registration shall continue in force.

— 4—

J^HJTXGXJBl XXX.
Distribution of Powers.

Section I. The powers of the State of New Mexico shall be di-
vided into three distinct departments and each one of them limited
to seperate bodies as follows "viz". Those that are Legislative to
one. Those that are judicial to another. Those that are Executive
to another.

Sec. II. No person or collection of persons being of one of these
departments shall exersice any power belonging properly to either
of the others, except in the cases hereinafter expressly directed or
permitted.

AE.TIGLE IY.

Legislative Department.

Section I. The Legislative powers of this State shall be vested
in two distinct branches as follows, "viz". The first, shall be

entitled the Senate. The second, the House of representatives and
both, the Legislature of the State of New Mexico. The style of all
laws shall be, "be it enacted by the Legislature of he State of New
Mexico."

Sec. II. The members of the House of Representatives shall be
elected by the qualified voters and their term of office shall be two
years from the day of their election and the sessions of the Legisla-
ture shall be held at such time as may be designated by law.

Sec. III. No person can be a representative^ if he is not a citizen
of the United States or has not been a citizen of this State one
year before his election and six months of the county, city, or village
in which he shall be elected and over twenty-one years of age.

Sec. IV. The Senators shall be elected by the qualified voters for
the term of four years and they will be divided by lot into two equal
classes. The office of the Senators of the first class will be vacant
at the end of two years: and those of the second class at the end of
four jrears : so that one half shall be elected bienailly thereafter; in
order to classify new additional Senators, it shall be observed to
keep an equal number in each class.

Sec. V. No person can be a Senator not being a citizen of the
United States or not having been an inhabitant of this State two
year" previous to his election ; and at least two years be resident of
the district in which he may be elected and being over twenty-five
years of age.

Sec. VI. In the first Legislature the representation in the House
of Representatives and the Senate shall be the same that uow is pro-
vided by law in the Territory of New Mexico for the Territorial Le-
gislature.

Sec. VII. Both Houses will elect their officers, except the Presi-
dent of the Senate, when the Lieutenant Governor shall preside in
the Senate; and judge the qualifications and election of their mem-
bers, but contested elections will be determined in such manner as
shall be provided by law.

Sec. VIII. Two thirds of each house shall constitute a quorum for
the transaction of business, but aless number may adjourn and com-

HBP5

*r SEW MEXICO?1

BEING A

COLLECTION OF FACTS,

MAINLY CONCERNING HER

Geography, Climate, Population, Schools, Mines and

Minerals, Agricultural and Pastoral Capacities,

Prospective Railroads, Public Lands,

AND

SPANISH AND MEXICAN LAND GRANTS.

BY

ELI AS BREVOORT.

Veritatis simplex Oratio est.

SANTA FE:

PRINTED AND PUBLISHED BY ELIAS BREVOORT

1874.

m - *§§!

f £^£=*fe- .... - r^*3^!1:

pe5 the atendance of absent vncmbei'J in such manner and ander such
penalties as shall be provided in each house.

Sec. IX. Each house may by a two thirds vote, for good cause.
expel a member; will have power to punish numbers for disorderly
conduct, and each house may punish with imprisonment any person,
neniber, for disrespect Or disorderly conduct iu its presence,
obstructing or emljarassiug any of it proceedings, but such puniah-
liall require a two third vote, and in nil cases of punish-
ment pco\ ided for above the vote, shall be by Ayes and Nays and
recorded on the journal of the respective house.

Sec. X. When a vacancy shall occur in either house, the Gover-
ihe person that Shall exercise the powers ol Governor shall
issue his proclamation of eiectiovi.to iill such vacancy.

Sec. XL The doors of each house will be open, except "when in
the opinion of the House public safety requires a secret session.

Sec. XII. Neither house shall have power to adjourn for more
than three days without the consent of the other, nor to any other
place than that in which the sessions are being held.

Sec XIII. Bills for laws may originate in either house and may
be amended, altered, or rejected by the other, and each law having
I ;en passed by the two houses will be signed by the presiding officer
of each, house.

Sec. XIV. Each bill will be read three different days in each
se Unless in case of urgency, two thirds vote of the house,
where .such bill is pending, dispense with this rule.

. XV. No Senator or Representative, during the time that he
is employed in such office, shall be nominated to any other civil office
in this State, and no person shall hold two offices of honor or profit
at the same time.

Sec. XVI An exact account of the receipts and expenditures of
public money shall be added to the lawsfand published with the same
on the adjournment of each session of the Legislature.

Sec. XVII. The Governor and all civil officers iu this State will
be subject to public accusation; and impeachment far any malprae-
tice in office, and if convicted shall be prolii bited from holding
any office of honor or trust in the state, but the party convicted shall
nevertheless be subject to indictment, trial .judgment and punish-1
men i according to law.

Sec. XVIII. The House of Representatives shall have the sole
power of impeachment, and the Senate the sole power to try officers
died: and in either case a two thirds vote shall be required;
and conviction shall not extend beyond removal from office, and the
prohibition of the party convicted from holding any office in this
state.

Sec. XIX. No judge of anv court of record in this State, Secre-
tary of State, Attorney General ; or persons holding any office under
the United States, shall be eligible to either branch of the Legislature
of this Sta*»e.

Sec. XX. The Legislature shall have power to exclude from
the privilege of voting, or holding office, all persons convicted of
bribery, perjury, or other infamous crime.

Sec. XXI. In the year eighteen 'hundred and seventy five (1875)
and each ten years thereafter, there shall be an enumeration of all
the inhabitants of this State in such manner as shall be prescribed
by law.

Executive Power.

Section I. TheJExecutive power will be conferred upon a Gover-
nor and a Lieutenant governor.

Sec. II. No person shall be eligible to the office of Governor or
Lieutenant Governor unless he be a citizen of the United States, and
a qualified voter, and has resided in this State for three years pre-
vious to his election.

Sec. III. The Governor and Lieutenant Governor, will be elected
by the qualified voters of this State at \ general election in the man-
ner provided by law; and shall hold their office for four years from
the time of their election, and until their successors are elected and
qualified.

Sec. IV. The- Governed" will be Commander in Chief of the Militia
of this State; he will have power to convene the Legislature in ex-
traordinary cases and in case, of invasion or .the prevalence of an
epidemic, he may convene the Legislature in any other place' within
the state other then the Capitol; he will communicate to each ses-
sion of the Legislature the condition ol public affairs; and recom-
mend such measures as he deems proper; he will have all powers
civil and military necessarily pertaining to the Executive office; lie
will carry into effect such measures as shall be determined upon by
ttte Legislature, and will have care that the laws are faithfully exe-
cuted.

Sec. V. When an office is found vacant from any cause and no
other mode is provided by the Constitution or law for rilling it, the
Governor shall have power to iill such vacancy ; giving a commission
that shall be valid until the end of the next session of the Legisla-
ture, or untill an election by the people.

Sec. VI. In case of difference between the two houses of the Le-
gislature as to what time they shall adjourn, the Governor shall have
power to adjourn the Legislature to such time as he may deem pro-
per. Provided that it shall not be for ir ore. time than is designated
by law for the meeting of the next Legislature.

Sec. VII. The Governor will receive a salary for lr.s services
which shall be neither increased nor diminished during the time for
which he has been elected.

Sec. VIII. The Lieutenant Governor by virtue of his office will be
President of the Senate, he will have the right to appoint the com-
mittees ; and of voting on all questions ; and when there shall be a tie
vote in the Senate, he shall give the casting vote : and in case of im-
peachment and removal of the Governor from office, death, inabi-
lity from mental or physical disease, resignation or absence from the
'State, the powers and duties of the office shall devolve upon the
Lieutenant Governor for the residue of the term, or until the Gover-
nor shall have returned, or the disability shall cease. .

Sec. IX. In case of the incapacity of the Governor, and the Lieu-
tenant Governor for any cause shall be incapacitated to serve as Go-
vernor, or refuse, or be removed, or absent from the state, the Pre-
sident of the Senate jito tempore shall administer the Government
the same as Lieutenant Governor.

Sec. X. The Lieutenant Governor during his services shall have
the compensation double that received by the President of the House
of Representatives and no more; but when the Lieutenant Governor
or the President pro tempore of the Senate shall administer the ofli-

ce <T Governor, they shall receive the same compensation as the Go-
vernor, and in case the President pro 'tempore of the Senate shall be
required by the above provisions to discharge the duties of Governor
aud during such time shall die, resign or be absent from the state,
during a recess of the Legislature, it shall be the duty of the Secre-
tary of Slate to convene the Senate, for the purpose of electing a
President 2-"0 tempore.

Sec. XI. All commissions will be in the name and by the autho-
rity of the state of Sew Mexico; and will be signed by the Gover-
nor mid sealed by the seal of the state, aud certified by the Secretary
of State.

Sec. XII. There shall be a Secretary of State elected at the same
maner as the Governor and Lieutenant Governor, and shall hold his
office for four years, and until his successor is elected and qualified :
he shall keep in a book provided for the purpose, an accurate record
of all the official acts and proceedings of the Governor, and file in
his office original copies of all laws passed by the Legislature, and
when required shall exl ibit to the Legislature all records, papers, mi-
uutes\ and certificates ol his office; aud perform such other duties
as shall he prescribed by law.

Sec. XIII. All acts that have been passed by the two houses of
the Legislature shall be presented to the Governor; if he approve he
shall sign it. if not he shall return it to the house in which it origi-
nated with his objections, which shall be entered upon the journals
of the house ; and the house shall proceed to reconsider said act and
if after such reconsideration, two-thirds of the members vote in favor
of the act becoming a law notwithstanding the objections of the
Governor it shall be sent to the other house, with the objections,
where the same proceedings shall be had and if two-thirds vote in
favor of the act it shall be a law ; but in such cases the vote of the
two houses shall be taken by Ayes and Nays and recorded on the
journals of the respective house : but in case an act is not returned
by the Governor within four days after it has been presented to him
it. shall be a law the same as if he had signed it unless the Legisla-
ture should adjourn, iu which case unless the Governor shall return
the act within four clays after the next meeting of the Legislature it
shall be a law.

Sec. XIV. All orders resolutions or acts requiring the approval
of both houses of the Legislature; except upon the question of ad-
journment : shall be presented to the Governor and before taking ef-
fect shall be approved by him, or being disapproved afterwards being
repassed by the two houses according to the rules and limitations in
the case of acts.

Sec. XV. The Governor will have power to pardon or commute
fines, penalties, and confiscations by and with the consent and appro-
lation of the Judges of the Supreme Court or a majority of them ; in
all cases except impeachment.

Sec. XVI. A Treasurer of State, aud a Auditor of Public Ac-
counts, will be elected at the same time and in the same manner as
Governor and Lieutenant Governor; they shall hold their office for
the term of four years and perform such duties as may be prescrib-
ed by law.

Sec. XVII. No person shall be elected to the office of Governor
or Lieutenant Gorernor for more than two terms.

— s—

Judicial Power.

Section I. The judicial power of this State will be conferred on
a Supreme court. District courts, and courts of Justice, of the Peace.
The legislature shall have power to establish municipal courts for
cities and incorporated towns, and one probate court in each coun-
ty of this State.

Sec. II. The Supreme court shall consist of one Chief Justice
and three associate justices.

Sec. III. The Supreme court shall have appel-late jurisdiction
only; a general supervision and control of interior courts'; the court
shall also have power to issue writs of habeas corpus, mandamus,
quo warranto, certiorari and othar writs origi'halarid remedial, and
to hear and determine the same and .shall hold their session.*as
may be provided by law. *

Sec. IV. The State shall be divided into four judicial districts;
and until the first general enumeration of the inhabitants pf the
state, or until the legislature shall otherwise provide, the counties
of Taos, Mora, Colfax and liio Arriba shall compose the first dis-
trict. The counties of San Miguel, Santa Fe, Santa Ana, and Ber-
nalillo shall compose the second district. The counties of Valencia,
Socorro; and Lincoln shall compose the third district. The counties
of Dona Ana, and Grant shall compose the fourth district. In each
county there shall be held two terms of the District Court each year,
until it shall be otherwise provided by law; and the Justices of the
Supreme Court shall be Judges of the District Court, and their res-
pective district shall be determined by allotment. After the enum-
eration of all the inhabitants of the State for the year 1875, the le-
gislature shall divide the state into districts in accordance to the
inhabitants of the several counties; to the end that each Justice of
the Supreme Court shall be assigned to hold district courts in each
one of their respective counties not ' less than two terms per an-
num.

Sec. V. The jurisdiction of the District Courts will be as confe-
ree! and limited by law and they shall have power to issue, hear and
determine writs of Habeas Corpus, mandamus, quo warranto, and
such other writs as shall be provided by law. The times and places
of holding the District Courts shall be designated by law.

Sec. VI. The justices of the Suprem Court may be removed
from office for good cause by impeachment by the House of Repre-
sentatives and conviction by the Senate but a two-third vote shall be
required in each case.

Sec. VII. The Justices of the Supreme Court wiil be appointed
by the Governor, by and with the advice and consent of the Senate;
and shall hold their office for the term of four years and until their
successors are appointed and qualified: Provided that if the Gover-
nor shall make three nominations during the same session for the
office of the Chief'Justice and the Senate shall refuse to confirm eith-
er of them, then the Senate by a two-thirds vote shall appoiut ajus-
tice of the Supreme Court.

Sec. VIII. Iu all cases of appeal from the District Court, the judge
that heard the case in the Court below shall not take part in the case
iu the Supreme Court.

Sec. IX. The Justice of the Supreme Court, or a majority of them

— 9—

shall appoint a clerk ; and the Judge of the District Court shall ap-
point a" clerk of the same.

Sec. X. There shall be elected by the people of each county a
Pro-bate Judge who shall hold hi* ofiice for two years and who will
have jurisdiction of such business, testamentary or intestate, and
such other powers as shall be provided bylaw. There shall be elec-
ted a justice of the peace in each precinct in the manner prescribed
hyl&w who shall hold his office for the term of one .year.

Sec. XI. All the. processes, writs; and orders shall be issued in
the name of the State of New Mexico : and all legal complaints shall
con< !ude in "violation of the Statutes in such case made and provi-
ded, and against the peace and dignity of the State.

Sec. XII. All judicial officers that maybe nominated or elected
shall be commissioned by the Governor.

Sec. XV. An Attorney General shall be elected at the general
t lections who shall hold his office for the term of two years and per-
form such duties as shall be provided by law.

Sec. XVI. A District Attorney for each judicial district shall be
elected at the general elections and shall hold his ofiice for two
years and perform such duties as shall be provided by law.

Sec. XVII. The justices of the Supreme Court by virtue of their
office shall be conservators of the peace in all the State.

Sec. XVIII. The Legislature may by law establish referee courts,
define the power, and duties of such courts; and empower them to
give decisions thatjshall be obligatory upon the parties when they vo-
luntarily submit the matter in question to their arbitration, and
agree to abide by their decisions.

Sec. XIX. The Legislature shall provide bylaw for the publica-
tion of the laws, statutes and judicial decisions, made within the
State in such manner as they may deem proper

Sec. XX. A sheriff shall be elected in each county at a general
election and shall hold his office for two years and perform such du-
ties as shall .be prescribed by law. There shall also be elected in
each precinct of the different counties, one constable who shall hold
his office for one year and perform such duties as shall be prescri-
bed by law.

APoTIOLS VII.

Militia.

Section I. The Militia of this State will be composed of all male
citizens of the State of sound body, between the ages of eighteen and
forty-five except such as may be hereinafter exempted or may be
exempted by the laws of the United States, and be armed, equiped,
and disciplined as the Legislature shall provide by law.

Sec. II. No person, or persons having conscieucious scruples
against bearing arms will be compelled to do service in the Militia
of this State in time of peace it being understood that such person,
or persons shall pay an equivalent for such exemption in the same
manner as other citizens exempted. The commissioned and Staff
officers shall be elected by the persons subject to militia service
and will be commissioned by the Governor.

Sec. III. Xo evangelical minister, or priest of any denomination

—10—

will be required to serve in the Militia, work on roads or serve
. in 1 his State.

ARTICLE VIII.
Education.

1CTION I. The education of the masses, and the diffusion of
■ among them being essential in order to preserve
i, and liberties of the people, and maintain a free govern-
ment; it shall be the duty of the Legislature of this State to pro-
Tide by law for the maintenance of public schools.

Sec. II. The Legislature shall as soon as practicable establish

Schools in all the counties in the State, and maintain them by an

tax: aud it shall be the duty of the Legislature to set apart

1. ih of the gross income of the State derived from taxation

. petual fund, which iund shall be apportioned for the mainte-

; of public schoods in proportion to the population, and no

i . hall be passed diverting said fund to any other use.

See. III. The Superintendence of public instruction will be<on-
fcrred uponja Superintendent of public schools and such other offices
as may be provided by the Legislature. The powers and duties of
such officers shall be prescribed by law, and until otherwise provi-
ded the Secretary oi State shall be ex-oficio Superintendent of Pu-
blic Schools.

-A-ZR/TIOXjIE IX.

General Provisions.

Section A Members of the Legislature and all other officers, be-
fore they enter upon their duties as such, shall take and subscribe an
oath to support the Constitution and iaws of the United States and
of this State, and faithfully and impartially discharge the duties of
their office.

Sec. II. Treason agrinst the State shall consist solely in levy-
ing war against it; or giving aid aud assistance to the enemy; but
no person shall be convicted of the treason except upon the tes-
timony of two witnesses or by his confession made in open court.

Sec. III. All officers of this State shall receive such salary for
their services as shall be provided by law.

Sec, IV. All eivil officers shall reside wthin the State; and all
officers of the districts, and counties shall have their offices within
their respective districts or counties, in conformity to law.

Sec V. Within five years from adoption of this constitution the
civil and criminal laws will be revised, recompiled, and published as
shall be directed by the Legislature; and said revision, aud publica-
tion shall be made each live years thereafter.

Sec. VI. All the revenues shall be levied by tax to be fixed by
law and no greater sum of revenue shall be levied at any time than
is required by the necessary expenses of the State ; unless by the con-
currence of two thirds of the Legislature.

Sec. VII. The Legislature shall have power to levy an income
tax; a tax upon all persons holding office cr pursuing a special oc-
cupation or profession.

—11—

VIII. No corporation shall be created in this S
cial laws; but the Legislature shall h&\

ion; but the Legislature shall not hav to cre-

ate, by u genera] or special law, any ba
tution oi'ations with special privi

by the follov j s ction.

See. IX. The Legislature may sue
ral el< ction the question of establish]

I privileges or without t:
l majority of all votes given shall faro: ■ -

:• to establish by i
with such limits and regulations -
security of the owners of the Si
Sec. X The credit of the Sta i for

t of any individual or
XL Divorces shall not be gi of the

l court, nniler such provisi< law as may be made by the

Legislature.

Sec. XII. The Legislature may pr lish-

mentofuew counties fur the co ihere-

of.

Sec. XIII. No money shall be draw:;

. except in pursuance ..
Sec. XIV. The Governor,
Treafcurer and Auditor of Pi
the Capital of this State.

Sec XV. After the year one the
one, wh«n two-thirds of the Legii :ry to

amend or change this cess:'
at the next general election
for or against u convention ; and
State, voting at such elect:.: .
Legislature at its next sessi

sis t of an equal number 1 acted

in the same manner, wha
tion, commence their sesskn
ing this constitution.

See. XVI. The members of botL he : shall

be free from arrest or proseci

. tluring the time that they
Sec. XVII. In the first
tion, any citizen of the Unit = o vc fce

the lawsof the Territory gible to

any office provided for in this :

Sec. XVIII. The ca] tate shall be i

otherwise provided by the Legislature.

Sec. XIX. It shall be tin the Legislature to provide by

law for the incorporation yi Qd villages, and to limit the pow-

er of sueh corporations to levy row money, and coi

debts.

sc:

Section. I. In order that there ' e in the. el i

of the Territorial govei

presentations, contracts, demands and rig., alid as if

issued in tht name of the state.

Sec. II. All fines and pecuniary penal t may re-

favor of the Territory of Dtew Mexi sh . scrae to the use and
benefit of the State.

Sec. III. The recognizances that have been taken or th
taken before the organization of the judiciary under this const':, i '.
will be valid: and shall be presented .n the name o: . and

all bonds, executed to the Territory of New Mexico by a
shall be delivered to the proper officer ot :.- ;onds

shall be demanded and recovered according to :

property real and personal, all obligation-. ises of ac-

tion, debts and demands of whatever nature or ..
Territory of New Mexico shall be transferred to the stale and
be demanded and recovered in the same manner as if no change had
been made in the government.

. IV. All criminal proceedings and penal actions that have
been commenced or may be commenced before _ a Ter-

ritorial to State government, and which shall be pending, shall be
presented, judged and executed in the name of the Si

Sec. V. All offences committed against the law of th Fen
that have not been presented before the change of government
be presented in the same manner as if no change had occurred : and
all punishments shall continue as if this constitution had not been
adopted. All laws that are in force in the Territory of Xew Mexico
not inconsistent with this constitution shall continued in force until
otherwise provided by law.

Sec. VI. All actions m law or pleadings in equity which may be
pending in any of the courts of this Territory at the time of the chan-
ge to a State government shall coutinue and be transferred to the
corresponding court of the State.

Sec. VII. The civil officers now employed under the authority of
the Territory will continue until they are relieved by the c
ponding officers under this constitution.

Sec. VIII. The Governor may use a private seal until he is pro-
vided with the seal of the E

Sec. IX. The Governor of the Territory of NewMexi<:o is required
within thirty days before the first Monday in nexl to is-

sue a proclamation for holding au election on the first Mom',
the said month in order to submit this constitution to the qua
voters of the territory : and for the election of a Governor, and Lien-
tenant Governor of the State, a representative to the Congre
the United States, members of the Legislature and other officers of
the State: and such election shall be held under th-.- provisii
the general election law of this Territory. The Secretary of the
Territory wil1 receive the return of votes from the difl ;nties

and count the same in the presence of the Governor and if i:
appear that a majority of the votes cast were in favor of this cons-
titution, he shall immmediately cause a correct and fair copy to be
made, certify to the same and .--end it to the Pr

States to the end that it may be submitted to the two houses of Con-
gress for their approbation. It shall be the duty of the Secretary
also to count the votes in the same manner given for th
State officers and issue certificates of election to those who have
been elected, and to the representative to the Congress of the U
Si tes and the officers so elected after the admission of this £

into the Union under this constitution will be recognized as the offi-
cers of the State for the terms of office designated herein.

Sec. X. If this constitution is adopted by the people of Xew Mex-
ico, the Legislature elected at time of such adoption shall meet in
Santa Fe on the first Monday of December one thousand eight hun-
dred and seventy: and the Senate in order to complete its organiza-
tion shall elect a President pro tem-pore until! the Lieutenant Gover-
nor shall he installed in his office; and within lour days alter the or
ganization of the houses ot'the Legislature they shall proceed to elect
by joint ballot two Senators to the Congress of the United States.
The Senators thus elected are hereby instructed lo ask ot'the Con-
gress ot'the United States in the name of the people of the Territory
of New Mexico its admission as a State under this constipation.

See. Xi. The oath of office provided for in this constitution1 shall
be administered by any judge or justice of the peace until the Le-
gislature shall otherwise provide by law. Done by the Representa-
tives of the people of New .Mexico in regular Legislative session in
Santa Fe this third day of February one thousand eight hundred arid
seventy. *■

tflTOLAS PINO.

President of the Council.
GWFGoi-TO N. UTERU,
Speaker of the House of Representatives.

AX ACT Providing for holding a General election for the purpose
of submitting to a vote of the people, a State constitution and
State officers.

Whereas, we the members of the Legislative .Assembly of the Ter-
ritory of New Mexico, as the Representatives of the people, after
due consideration of the best interets of New Mexico, that the pre-
sent circumstances ami condition of the country will permit to be
adopted, have considered it best to submit for the consideration of
the 'people, a constitution which to us appeal's propel and in which
is embodied the fundimental principles of a tree and sovergein
State.

And whereas we are convinced that the Hon. Congress of the Uni-
ted States, only desire know to that a majority of the people ol this
Territory desire to organize a State with a constitution Republican
in form. Therefore.

Be it enacted by the Legislative Assembly of the Territory of New
Mexico.

Sivnox I. That Ills Excellency Cue Governor of this Territory i*
hereby required thirty days prior to the first Monday of October A. D.
1870, to issue a proclamation for a general election, to he held on
the first Monday of Dctuber of the said year for the pnnmse ot sub-
mitting the Statu constitution and for the purpose of electing mem-
bers of the Legislation aud State officers provided for in said con-
stitution.

. ri. It shall be the duty of the Probate Judges in the diffe-
rent counties as soon as they have received the proclamation of the

— 14 —

Governor, to issue their proclamation to the county seating forth
the time when this election shall be held, the time ami place of
the same, and for the object designated in the proclamation of the
Governor, all of which shall be conducted according to the provisions
and conditions of the laws now in force on elections. Provided. It
shall not lie necessary to re-register the qualified voters for this elec-
tion, hut. a list or copy of the original of the last registration of
qualified voters shall be sent to the c'itfcrent Election precints for
use at sairl Election.

Sec. Ill That it lie made tlie duty of the governor of the Ter-
ritory to have printed two tlious?lnd copies of the constitution of
the State in Spanish and one thousand copies in English and send
them proportionately to the different Probate .Indues, before the 1st
day of May I8f0 for the informal ion of the people. Provided, that
the expenses of printing and sending them to the different counties.
shall be pre-ented and paid out of the funds of the Terruoiy as also
all the expenses ami cost to conduct and earrv into effect said elec-
tioii. including the pPttirn of votes at said election, ami it is here-
by made the duty of the Territorial auditor to issue a Territorial
warrant in lavor of and for the sum that shall he presented with the
i ertitieate of the Governor for such services and expenses and the
Treasurer shall pay the same.

Sec. IV. That, the Governor is required to send to each mem-
ber of the Legislative Assembly ten copies of the State constitution
and also one copy of this Act, which he shall cause to be printed at
the same t ime.

Sec. V. That this Act shall be in force for the purposes herein
expressed and for no other purposes, from and alter the passage.

(Translation from original Spanish;.

Ai'PROVKD, Feb. ;'., 1570.

IEWME

HER NATURAL RESQIES 11 ATTRACTION

BEING A

COLLECTION OF FACTS.

MAINLY CONCERNING HER

graphy, Climate, Population, Schools, Mines
Minerals, Agricultural and Pastoral Capacities,
Prospective Railroads, PuMc Lands,

AND

SPANISH AND MEXICAN LAND GRANTS.

BY

ELIAS BREVOORT.

Veritatis simplex Oratio est.

SANTA FE:

PRINTED AND PUBLISHED BY ELIAS BREVOORT.

1874.

Newspapers of New Mexico.

The New Mexican,* Santa Fe.

The Regimental Flag, Santa Fe.

The Cimarron News, .Cimarron.

The Railway. Press and Telegraph,... Elizabethtown.

The Las Vegas Gazette,* '. Las Vegas.

The New Mexico Advertiser,* Las Vegas.

The Republican Review,* Alburquerque.

The Borderer, Las Cruces.

The Mesill a News,* Mesilla.

The Mining Life, Silver City.

The Tribune, Silver City.

The Mora Mail,* Mora.

Published in English and Spanish.

pvi^Jk

UTHORITIES.

Gentlemen we are mainly indebted to for Information.

WILLIAM F. M. ARNY, Ex-Governor of New Mexico.

JOHN A. CLARK, Ex-U. S. Surveyor-General for New Mexico.

JOAB HOUGHTON, Ex-Judge Supreme Court, New Mexico.

JOSEPH G. KNAPP, the same.

JAMES K. PROUDFIT, U. S. Surveyor-General for New Mexico.

DAVID J. MILLER, Chief Clerk and Translator for same.

ABRAM G. HOYT, Register of the U. S. Land Office.

F. V. HAYDEN, U. S. Exploring Geologist.

CYRUS THOMAS, Agriculturist with same.

W. J. PALMER, Director Transcontinental Railway Survey 1867.

C. C. PARRY, Naturalist and Geologist with same.

ELIAS BREVOORT, twenty-four years residenter in New Mexico.

0ui\_ References.

Gentlemen of our Personal Acquaintance we take the
liberty to mention.

General L. C. EASTON, TJ. S. A., Leavenworth.

Hon. MIGUEL A. OTERO, Granada, Colorado.

GEORGE A. HAY WARD, 421 Olive street, St. Louis.

Colonel A. J. BOONE, Denver.

SAMUEL WETHERED, Baltimore.

Hon. S. B. ELKINS, Delegate from New Mexico, Washington.

General D. H. RUCKER, U. S. A., Chicago.

LEVI SPIEGELBERG, 32 Church street, New York.

Hon. A. M. JACKSON, Austin, Texas.

Colonel H. M. ENOS, U. S. A., Milwaukee.

HARRY M. MILLER, « Commercial » office, Cincinnati.

Hon. JUAN H. ZUBIRAN, Chihuahua, Mexico.

Hon. G. H. OURY, Tucson.

General SAM. D. STURGES, U. S. A., Louisville.

CHARLES W. KITCHEN, Salt Lake City.

LEHMAN SPIEGELBERG, President Second National Bank, Santa Fe.

JOAQUIN PEREA, 535 Clay street, San Francisco.

DAVIS & FRERET, 27 Commercial Place, New Orleans.

GEORGE A. ROBERTS, with A. X. Stewart, Philadelphia.

JOHNSON & KOCH, Santa Fe.

ZENON De MORUELLE, Galveston.

REYNOLDS & GRIGGS, Mesilla.

CHARLES E. KEARNEY, Kansas City.

D. D. BRAINARD & CO., Monterey, Mexico.

MATTHIAS SMYTH, Merced, California.

FRANK McMANUS, Chihuahua.

BOST & JENKINS, 331 Montgomery street, San Francisco.

p

EDICATION.

TO SOLID MEN,

MEN OF MEANS AND ENTERPRISE, MEN DESIRING THROUGH SAFE

INVESTMENT ALIKE THE WELFARE OF THEMSELVES AND

THE GROWTH AND GLORY OF THE COMMONWEALTH,

MEN OF PERCEPTION AND ACTION,

EVERYWHERE,

THE FOLLOWING PAGES,

INTENDED

TO PRESENT TO THE BONE AND SINEW

OF

THE WORLD OF CAPITALISTS AND OF PRODUCERS,

FARMERS AND LIVE STOCK MEN,

BY

FAIR AND TRUTHFUL STATEMENT,

THE NOW SCARCELY KNOWN OR APPRECIATED EXCELLENCIES

OF THE

TERRITORY OF NEW MEXICO

AS A FIELD FOR

THE PROFITABLE INVESTMENT OF CAPITAL BEFORE THE COMING DAY

OF

RAILROADS, IMMIGRATION AND EMPIRE,

• MAINLY IN

MINING, FARMING AND STOCKRAISING,

AND ESPECIALLY IN

THE EARLY ACQUISITION OF LARGE LANDED ESTATES,

ARE

RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED,

BY

-60-TPT^-^

~" ;:W*#Brti

NEW MEXICO.

EXTENT, POPULATION, Etc.

New Mexico has pertained, at different periods and with
different boundaries* and extent, to three different nationalities
— to Spain, to Mexico,, and to the United States. Under Spain
it was called the province of Nuevo Mexico, under Mexico the
province, the territory, the state, f and the department of Nuevo
Mexico, and under the United States it is called the Territory of
New Mexico, destined, we have no doubt, in a very few years
to become one of the States of the American Union.

The Territory was created by the act of the United States
congress of September 9, 1850, and the territorial government
put in operation March 1, 1851, with the eastern and southern
boundaries as they now are, and with the northern along the
thirty-eighth degree of latitude, and the western along the
Rio Colorado of the west, the eastern boundary of the State of
California. Afterwards a whole degree of latitude was by congress
taken from us on the north, and given to the Territory of Colo-
rado, theu a portion of our northwest corner attached to the
State of Nevada, and then the whole of the territory of Arizona
lopped off from our western half — so that at this time the Terri-
tory extends from 103° to 109° longitude west from Greenwich,
and from 31° 47' to 3 7° north latitude, in other words is bounded
on the north by Colorado, on the east by Texas and Indian
Territory, on the south by Texas and Mexico, and on the west
by Arizona, and extends on an average three hundred and fifty-
two miles north and south, and three hundred and thirty- two
miles east and west.

* The provincial deputation on January 4, 1823, in dividing the province
into civil jurisdictional districts, stated the boundaries of New Mexico as «on
the N. the Arkansas river, on the S. New Biscay to the Mimbres mountain, on
the W. the Mogollon mountain the Moqui Indian pueblos, thence to the head-
waters of the Rio Grande del Norte, on the E. the Senisos hills and pueblo of
Jumanes, and thence southwardly over the sandhills."

t The Mexican congress on February 4, 1824, erected the "Northern
State," created from the provinces of New Mexico, Chihuahua and Durango.
We believe the law was soon repealed, mainly on account of a quarrel over the
location of the capital, Durango demanding it at the city of Durango, and
Chihuahua and New Mexico at the city of Chihuahua.

12 BREVOORT'S NEW MEXICO.

The general face of the country, says the Commissioner of
the General Land Office in his annual report for 1870, is
constituted of high level plateaus, traversed by ranges of
mountains from occasional isolated peaks rise to a great hight^
and intersected by rapid streams of water flowing through beauti-
ful fertile valleys, and channeling in the precipitous rocky canons.
The general course of the mountains, valleys and streams is from
north to south, with the tendency to a deflection from northwest
to southeast, or towards Mexico and the isthmus of Panama,
the territory including the southern extension of the mountains
constituting what is called in more northern latitudes the great
Rocky Range, this being an elevated continental vertebral col-
umn, extending from the Arctic Ocean to South America without
losing its identity, or the chain of connecting peaks being
broken, and following a line parallel with the general contour
of the Pacific coast throughout its whole extent. The rivers of
New Mexico form parts of the water systems of both the Atlantic
and Pacific slopes — those on the eastern side of the dividing
range emptying into the gulf of Mexico by way of the Canadian
and Mississippi rivers and the Rio Grande del Norte, and those
on the western side flowing into the gulf of California by way
of the Rio Gila and Colorado of the West.

The general altitude of the mountain chains, rising on either
side of the Rio Grande and Pecos, is between 6000 and 8000
feet, and sometimes, especially in the northern sections of the
territory, they reach the hight of 10,000 and 12,000 feet above
the sea level. One of the most noted elevations is Mount
Taylor, situated northwest of Santa Fe, which rises to a hight of
10,000 feet above the valley of the Rio Grande, this valley
having itself an elevation of between 5000 and 6000 feet above
the sea in its northern extension towards the Colorado boundary,
4800 feet at Alburquerque, and 3000 feet at El Paso, just across
the southern boundary in the Mexican state of Chihuahua.

The climate is considerably varied by the changes of latitude
and by the elevation of the surface of the country. The salubrity
of the climate is remarkable, and constitutes one of its most
attractive features, the malarious maladies occasional in some
localities of the Mississippi valley and elsewhere where the soil
is imperfectly cultivated and surplus vegetation allowed to
decay on the surface, being entirely unknown in New Mexico;

EXTENT, POPUEATTON, ETC. 13

and seldom are persons here affected with pulmonary or hepatic
diseases, while the presence of numerous thermal and other
mineral springs, possessing extraordinary curative powers,
promises to render it, as soon as their virtues shall have become
as well known to the great public as now to the explorer and
pioneer, one of the most popular places of resort by those
residents of the cities and towns whose physical health is
impaired, and who seek recuperation, and the beauty of its
natural scenery must attract many who desire relief for minds
overtaxed with the care and labor of arduous professions or
engrossing mercantile pursuits.

The plateaus, valleys and hillsides of New Mexico, continues
the commissioner, are usually covered with various indigenous
grasses, furnishing the best of pasturage for sheep and cattle,
the most valuable and widely distributed of these grasses being
a variety called the mesquite or grama grass, which grows
during the rainy season of July and August, ripens under the
influence of autumnal suns and dries upon the stalk, bearing a
copious abundance of nutritious seeds, and constituting adequate
support for every kind of live stock throughout the entire
winter, and until the more rapidly growing herbage of the
spring and early summer has attained sufficient growth to
attract animals by its freshness from their winter sustenance,
and furnish the change of food necessary to the most perfect
development of animal life. The herdsman and shepherd in
this country therefore possess great advantages over the farmer
and stockraiser of the more eastern states, as the latter is
compelled to spend a large portion of his time and labor in
summer in providing food for the support of his stock during
winter months; besides this advantage there is to be considered
the fact that mildness of the winters and the slight falls of snow
render shelter, other than that afforded by the valleys, and
timber, entirely unnecessary for the protection of the herds and
flocks, the pure air, wide ranges, and excellent food resulting
in an extraordinary healthiness of the animals, among which
the contagious diseases, prevalent in other sections, are almost
entirely unknown, the horses being remarkable Tor their
endurance, and the beef and mutton celebrated for their ex-
cellence, while the flesh of the cattle and sheep is readily cured
without the use of salt, by being hung up in the open air, the

14 BREVOORT'S NEW MEXICO.

variety of the atmosphere soon producing a state of dryness,
which will preserve it in all its natural sweetness and excellence
for any reasonable period. The production of wool is at present
one of the most profitable branches of industry in the Territory,
and the recent introduction of the improved breeds of sheep,
with the view of obtaining larger animals and finer qualities of
fleece, will undoubtedly contribute greatly to the advancement
of this interest.

The mining interests of the Territory are important, and
promise to constitute in the immediate future one of the chief
sources of wealth and prosperity; the deposits of gold, silver, cop-
per, iron and coal being extensive and valuable. Embarrassments,
proceeding from Indian difficulties, and from the want of ready
means of transportation for supplies and products, have greatly
retarded the development of the mines in the past; but recently
the country has become more settled and safe, in consequence
of the present beneficent Indian policy of the government and
the efficient administration of the same, the result being new
discoveries of valuable mines, and more profitable working of
the older ones, the yield of gold and silver during the past year
comparing very favorably with that of any of the past years in
the history of this interest, notwithstanding the suspension of
work on some of the principal mines, for the purpose of introduc-
ing new and improved machinery with the view of their more
economical working. The great desideratum in connection
with the mining interest is better and cheaper modes of trans-
portation, which can only be furnished by the construction of
railroads, and when these shall have been extended through
the Territory — as they inevitably soon must be, in the course
of American progress — the mines of New Mexico will undoubt-
edly contribute greatly to the augmentation of the present
annual product of the precious metals in the United States.

There are certain portions of the Territory perhaps unfit for
either cultivation or pasturage — but it is certain that almost all
the valleys of the rivers, as well as the table-lands within reach
of irrigation, are exceedingly productive, the soil possessing
elements^ of great fertility, and the occasional scarcity of water
alone preventing the more arid portions from producing excellent
crops and superior indigenous herbage. The most abundant
crops of the Territory are those of corn, wheat, barley, oats,

EXTENT, POPULATION, ETC. 15

apples, peaches, apricots and grapes; all of these grains and
fruits thriving readily, and the crops being of excellent quality.
The soil, climate and nature of the surface are especially adapted
to the culture of the grape, this being an important branch of the
husbandry of the country, the yield of fruit being prolific, and
the wine produced therefrom of excellent quality. Consequent
upon the necessity of irrigation, cultivation of the soil is confined
to those localities where water from the rivers and streams can
be readily obtained, the usual method of securing the necessary
supplies being by constructing large canals, called acequias
madres, of sufficient capacity for an entire town or settlement,*
at the cost of all who desire the benefits to be derived therefrom,
along the most elevated portions of the valleys or over the
greater elevations of the plateaus adjoining the foothills of the
mountains, and from this main ditch each farmer constructs his
own minor canal to the lands he desires to irrigate, the right of
each to the use of the water being confined to certain hours in
each week, in order that the supply may be fairly divided, a
farmer being able, by the use of these ditches, to water thoroughly
about five acres in a day, on even ground. The necessity for irri-
gation is certainly the source of considerable trouble and labor to
the agriculturist, but the certainty and excellence of the crops,
which result from this care, and the comparative freedom from
dependence upon the seasons, almost atone for this necessity.
But it is gathered from well tried experiments that, when more
attention has been given in this section to the planting of fruit and
forest trees, the climate will be materially changed in this respect,
greater supplies of rain following, and its fall being more evenly
distributed through the several seasons.

The principal forests of New Mexico are confined to the
mountain ranges, being constituted chiefly of pine, cedar, spruce
and other varieties of evergreens; but on the foothills extensive
tracts of pinon, cedar and mesquite are found, and in the river
bottoms, fringing the margins of the streams, are belts of
cottonwood, sycamore and other deciduous trees, while in the

* The acequias are often twenty or thirty miles long, and often afford consid-
erable mill power. Each irrigation is a new coating of manure to the soil, and
cultivation by irrigation, instead of impoverishing, enriches the soil. The
Spaniard two hundred and seventy years ago found the Pueblo Indians here
cultivating the ground by irrigation, and the same land has been fo tilled ever
since annually, and it is still of undiminished fertility and productiveness.

16 • BREVOORT'S NEW MEXICO.

southern parts of the Territory groves of oak and walnut are
abundant.

We have made and we subjoin an estimate of the present
population of the Territory by counties, pueblos and country
settlements. We fear our estimate of 121,250 — which it happens
is just one inhabitant to the square mile — is too small in reality,
and would not object to the readers adding, say five per centum
to it.

The census of 1870 shows a population of 91,871, and that of
1860 showed a population of 93,516 — wherefore there appears
prima faeie to have been during the decade a decrease of 1645;
whereas the truth is, there was an increase of more than 21,000,
or about thirty per cent. An explanation of the case is important
in the premises, especially as the want of it — owing in a great
degree to the silence and, in this matter, docility of the local
press — has for a long time unquestionably been giving the
Territory a false and an injurious reputation among those
ignorant of the facts. Indeed, we remember no instance of a
reference to the subject by any of our journals, except in a
recent article in the Daily New Mexican of Santa Fe, and from
which article we here reproduce a portion: —

"The other error is in regard to population. It is true that
the census of 1870 shows an apparent loss of population during
the preceding decade, but it is not really so. The population of
New Mexico in 1860 was 93,516, but this included Arizona, with
a population of 9,581, and a tier of counties, now in Colorado,
containing 13,318, which were all set off from us during the
decade, or a total of 22,899. By the census of 1870 we had
91,871, showing that we really increased 21,254, or about 30 per
cent, upon the population of the present territory of New Mexico,
which was 70,617 in 1860, and not 93,516, as people generally
suppose, and the mistake is but natural, for the census contains
no note of explanation. We claim that, considering the embar-
rassments under which our territory has labored, remote from
commercial centers, far from railroads and with totally inade-
quate means of communication and travel, with the false
reputation of being largely inhabited and overrun by savages,
our rate of increase was highly creditable. The average rate of
increase of some twenty or more of the old states was but 20
per cent, between 1860 and 1870. The actual rate of increase of

EXTENT, POPULATION, ETC. 17

New Mexico property ica$ greater in that time than that of
Alabama, Arkansas, Connecticut, Delaware, Georgia, Indiana,
Kentucky, Louisiana, Maine, Massachusetts, Missouri, Missis-
sippi, New Hampshire, New York, North Carolina, South
Carolina, Ohio, Pennsylvania, Rhode Island, Tennessee and
some other states. The increase since 1870 has been much
greater than during any other equal lenght of time, and we
think fully thirty per cent, already. Including our Pueblo
Indians — who are peaceful, industrious and honest people,
living upon farms that they have occupied from time imme-
morial— we claim at least 130,000 people. Our flocks and herds,
our mineral development and other substantial wealth has
increased as fast in proportion as our population, if not faster,
and we are abundantly able* to provide for an economical state
government, such as our people will expect and demand."

The facts and statistics, presented by the editor, are well
founded and correct; and from them appear what was really the
population of the present territory at the census of 1860,
what it was in fact at that of 1870, and what was the actual
increase instead of the apparent decrease during the decade,
intervening between the two censuses, as follows: —

Census of 1860 93,516

Deduct Population given Colorado in 1861 13,318

Deduct population given Arizona in 1863 9,581 22,899

Real census of 1860 70,617

Census of 1870, 91,871

Real census of 1860 70,617

Increase in the decade 21,254

We very much doubt that the last census — taken four years
ago — was a complete exhibit of our population. It seems to us
that we had more people than that enumeration shows — that
we must have had then 100,000 at least. But if it was complete,
and if our estimate of the present population be correct, then
during the last four years the Territory has augmented its

* A main question just now (May, '74) in New Mexico politics is State or No
State; and it has divided the politicians into Territory men and State men. Our
delegate in congress — who is a state(s) man — has introduced a bill for an ena-
bling act, and the article we have quoted from was written in the << State "
interest. We may be « able" to support a state government; but we think New
Mexico and the New Mexicans are not ready and prepared just yet for a state
autonomy. We want railroads first. These make the state, and not the state
them.

18

BB-EVOORT'S NEW MEXICO.

population at least 29,379. We cannot believe we have estimated
too small, in the following statement, the number of souls in
the respective counties, towns, Indian pueblos and country
settlements of the Territory.

POPULATION OF NEW MEXICO.

Names and estimated resident populations of the various cities,
towns, villages, Indian Pueblos and counties of the Territory.

County Seats in smalt, caps, Indian Pueblos in Italic, Post-
offices with*.

In the County of Taos:

*Feenando de Taos,

Ranchos de Taos, ..».

Rio Hondo,

*Rio Colorado,

Arroyo Seco,

Embudo,

Taos,

Chemisal,

Las Trampas,

Picuris,

*Castilla de New Mexico,!

Pehasco,

Santa Barbara,

Picuris,

Country settlements,

Total,

t The New Mexico a " !

In the County of Colfax:

*ClMMABRON,

*Elizabethtown,

Clifton,

TJte Creek,

*Rayado,

Country settlements,.

13,025

line runs through the town.

3,000

2,000

1,500

1,500

1,000

500

375

325

275

250

250

200

200

150

1,500

Total,.

1,800

600

125

65

700

1,000

4,290

EXTENT, POPULATION, ETC.

19

In the County of Jlora:

*Mora,

*Sapello,

Cevolla,

Cueva

*La Junta,

Cherry Valley,

*Loma Parda,

*Ocate,

*Fort Union,

Guadalupita, ,

Country settlements,.

3,000

1,400

1,200

1,000

1,000

800

750

75

50

650

1,550

Total, 11,475

In the County of Rio Arriba

Canada,

*Rito,

Chama,

*Ojo Caliente,

*Tierra Amarill a,

* Abiquin,

Chamita,

*Plaza Alcalde,

Los Luceros,

La Joya,

*San Juan,

Cuchilla,

Santa Clara,

Country settlements,

1,750

1,100

1,100

1,000

450

1,050

900

925

700

650

350

75

50

1,900

Total,.

12,000

20

BREVOORT'S NEW MEXICO.

In the County of Santa Ana .

Santo Domingo,

Je?nez,

Santa Ana,

San Felipe,

Cochiti,

Peiia Blanca,

Algoclones,

*Majada,f

Vallecito,

Lia,

Cubero,

Jemez Springs,

Country settlements,....

Total,.

1,000
800
500
400
400
650
500
200
150
125
100
20
350

5,195

t The town, nowadays frequently called Bajada, the Spanish for descent, is
at the western base of a high mesa upon a main thoroughfare which there
descends to the valley. It is properly Majada, the Spanish for sheep ranch, a
large one at that spot one hundred years ago giving the place its name.

In the County of Santa Fe:

*SANTA FE,

Chimayd,

Agua Fria,

Galisteo, ,

Las Truchas,

San Ildefonzo,

Tesuque,

*Pojoaque,

Cienega,

Beal de Dolores,

Tesuque,

Nambe,

Pueblo Guemado,

Pojodque,

Country settlements,..

Total, 13,355

6,500

1,500

700

650

650

570

400

440

350

150

125

100

100

20

1,000

EXTENT, POPULATION, ETC.

21

In the County of San Miguel:

*Las Vegas, 4,500

"Anton Chico, : 1,300

Tecolote, 1,200

San Miguel, 750

*San Jose, 750

*Puerto de Luna, 750

La Cuesta, 700

Pecos, 500

La Junta, 500

Chaperito, 750

Liendre, 500

Pueblo, 400

*Santa Rosa, 150

Agua Negra, 300

Los Valles, 300

Las Colonias, 400

Rincon del Tecolote, 175

Las Torres, 100

Bernal, 100

Guzano, 75

Pecos, 000

Hatch's, 75

*Fort Sumner, 250

Country settlements, 1,700

Total,

16,175

In the County of Bernalillo

*AliBURQUEB,Q,UE,

Los Ranchos,

^Bernalillo,

Isleta,

Manzano,

Chilili,

* Alameda,

Tajique,

Barelas,

Torreon,

Pajarito,

Atrisco,

Sandia,

Tijeras,

Corrales,

San Antonio,

Forward,

2,500

2,400

1,475

1,200

1,000

700

700

650

400

350

300

250

225

150

700

100

14,000

22

BREVOORT'S NEW MEXICO.

County of Bernalilo, — continued:

Forward,

San Lorenzo,

Padillas,

San Antoilito,

Tejon,

Country settlements,

Total,.

In the County of Valencia ;

Zuniy

Laguna,

*Belen,

*Peralta,

Ce volleta,

Valencia,

*Los Lunas,

Cubero,

Acoma,

*Tome,

Rio Puerco,

Casa Colorada,

San Mateo,

La Joya,

Los Enlaraes,

Las Lentes,

Moquino,

Carson Mine,

Country settlements,.

Total, 10,035

In the County of Lincoln :

Ruidoso,

*Fort Stanton,

Placita,

^Lincoln,

Ashland,

*Roswell,

La Junta,

Real de Icarilla,

Country settlements,.

Total,

500
50

1,500
150
500
200
250
100

1,200

4,450

EXTENT, POPULATION, ETC.

23

750
750
700
50
600

1,000
500
250
200
20
100
300

1,000

In the County of Socorro :

*Socokpo,

■;Limitar,

*Parage,

*Fort Craig,

Polvadera,

San Marcial,

Sabinal, ,

*San Antonio,

Alamosa,

*Aleman,

Don Pedro,

Silver Mines,

Country settlements, . . .

Total,

In the County of Grant :

*Pinos Altos,

*Fort Cummiugs,

*Mimbres,

Rito,

Central City,

*Silver City,

Country settlements,. . .

Total,

In the County of Doila Ana

*Mesilla,

*Las Cruces,

*Dofia Ana,

-Fort Selden,

Mesa,

Tularosa,

Picacho,

Santo Tomas,

Amoles,

San Augustin Spring,..
Country settlements,...

Total,

6,220

700

50

200

150

100

1,000

1,000

3,200

2,500

1,750

700

50

600

500

300

150

100

30

750

7,430

24

BREVOORT's NEW MEXICO.

RECAPITULATION".

In the County of Taos,...
« Colfax,.

" Mora,.
" Rio Arriba,.
" Santa Ana,...
" Santa F6,....
" San Miguel,.
" Bernalillo,.-..

" Valencia,

" Lincoln, ...

" Socorro........

" Grant,

" Dona Ana,...

Total in Territory,.

13,025

4,290

11,475

12,000

5,195

13,355

16,175

14,400

10,035

4,450

6,220

3,200

7,430

121,250

CLIMATE AND HEALTH.

The general elevation of the country extending from the
Rio Grande to the Rio Colorado of the West, averaging as it
does over five thousand feet above the level of the sea, and
rising at several points to over twelve thousand feet, ensures for
it that purity of atmosphere and coolness which characterize all
elevated regions. Another important feature is also connected
with the general southerly slope of the whole country, which,
while it serves to interrupt and weaken the force of the cold
northern currents, admits the warm winds from the south to
precipitate their moisture on the higher slopes in the form of
summer rains and winter snows. Hence, we have in these
elevated districts a climate favoring the growth of trees, a more
equable distribution of rain and precipitation of dew throughout
the year, especially adapted to the production of nutritious
grasses and the cultivation of grain without resorting to irriga-
tion. These desirable climatic features are especially noticeable
along the elevated slopes of San Francisco mountain in Arizona,
where magnificent pine forests are agreeably interspersed with

CLIMATE AND HEALTH. 25

beautiful grassy valleys and parks, numerous springs, and a
delightfully invigorating atmosphere. In passing south along
the natural course of drainage, we encounter at lower elevations,
numerous fertile valleys, interrupted by rocky ridges and deep
canons, where the climate is milder, the summer heat more
intense, and the severities of winter, such as are experienced
within short distances in the higher elevations, are unknown.
There is, however, sufficient rain in these lower districts to
support a rank vegetation, and the copious water-courses offer
every facility needed, in the way of irrigation, to mature late-
growing crops. These sheltered valleys and irregular rocky
slopes, now resorted to by the murderous Apaches for hiding
places, will offer to their future civilized inhabitants comfortable
winter quarters, where their flocks and herds can be safely
sheltered during the inclement season, and kept in good condi-
tion till the higher mountain slopes again invite them to their
rich summer pasturage. In these favorable climatic conditions,
we can safely determine the future location of the populous
district of Arizona and New Mexico, which, very fortunately
for railroad enterprise, occupies this central continental position,
where extensive virgin forests, rich pastoral and agricultural
lands, are nearly connected with vast undeveloped mineral
resources to complete those desirable features, that will invite
and retain a permanent population.

The mildness and excellence and remarkable salubrity of the
climate of New Mexico has become proverbial. The dryness
and purity of the atmosphere all over the Territory, and espe-
cially in the valleys, has induced many invalids afflicted with
pulmonary and other diseases to test its salubrity, with great
benefit to them and a prolongation of their lives.

As evidencing the remarkably pure and even temperature of
the atmosphere in New Mexico, we introduce here in a con-
densed form an official report of the United States signal service
station at Santa Fe, for the year ending December 81, 1873.

Monthly mean of barometer — January, 29.77

" « « « February, 29.73

« « <■<■ " March, 29.73

« " " » April, 29.72

" « " " May, 29.85

" " " " June, 29.88

« " " " July, 29.92

26

BREVOORT'S NEW MEXICO.

Monthly mean of barometer — August, 29.97

" « " " September, 29.91

" " " " October, 29.90

» « « " November, 29.83

" « " " December, 29.78

Yearly " « " 1873, , 29.83

Monthly mean of thermometer — January, 27°

" « '< February, 34°

" ■< " March, 38°

" " " April, 45°

« " " May, 58°

" " « June, 66°

" « « July, 67°

" " " August, 87°

" « » September, 60°

" " » October, 49°

" « » November, 33°

" » « December, 32°

Yearly » « » 1873, |49°

Monthly rainfall in inches-

Yearly

-January, 34

February, 20

March, 13

April, 14

May, 45

June, 2.44

July, 2.62

August, 2.98

September, 27

October, 25

November, 01

December, 04

1873, 9.87

The highest observed temperature during the year was 88°;
the lowest 5° below zero.

The greatest single rainfall was that of 1.21 inch, occurring
on June 4.

The wind traveled fifty thousand two hundred and twenty-
five miles, the prevailing direction being north.

It is supposed by many that, owing to the arid climate of
New Mexico, and the reported small rainfall, water would be
scarce. Such persons should remember that the reports are

CLIMATE AND HEALTH. 27

generally made in reference to the valleys, and that in the
mountain ranges there are during the winter generally heavy
falls of snow, which supply our streams with an abundance of
water by its melting during the spring and summer months;
besides this, there are numerous springs all over the country, many
of them hot and impregnated with minerals, and many of them
cold springs. Thus we, in New Mexico, are blessed with pure
air and water, both essential to health, and with the Nile of
America for irrigation, we have abundance of water to cultivate
the valleys of the Rio Grande and other great streams and their
tributaries.

On the subject of disease in New Mexico, we quote as author-
itative and conclusive from a published letter of Doctor Lew.
Kennon, now of Santa Fe, formerly connected with the United
States army stationed here, and who has resided and practiced
for more than twenty years, and is the leading physician in the
Territory. In the letter referred to, writing of New Mexico,
he says:

* * * "It is certain that even when the lungs were
irreparably diseased, very much benefit has resulted. Invalids
have come here with the system falling into tubercular ruin, and
their lives have been astonishingly prolonged by the dry, bracing
atmosphere.

« The most amazing results, however, are produced in ward-
ing off the approaches of Phthisis, and I am sure there are but
few cases which if sent here before the malady is well pro-
nounced, would fail to be arrested. Where hardening has
occurred or even considerable cavities been established, relief
altogether astonishing takes place.

" The lowest death rate from tubercular disease in America is in
New Mexico. The censuses of 1860 and 1870 give 25 per cent,
in New England, 14 in Minnesota, from 5 to 6 in the different
southern states, and 3 per cent, in New Mexico.

"I have never known a case of bronchitis brought here that
was not vastly improved or altogether cured, and asthma as well.

"Rheumatism and diseases of the heart, with or without a
rheumatic origin, do badly here. Valvular difficulty in that
organ is invariably made worse. But the most astonishing

28 brevoort's new Mexico.

effect of this climate is seen in those cases of general debility of
all the functions of body and mind — that used up condition, the
pestilent nuisance of physicians in the great cities. People
come here in a sort of debacle, having little hope of living, and
often little desire to, and the relief is so quick as to seem mirac-
ulous.

" I have no doubt that when means of access to this country
are better, and therefore it being better known, it will rival or
supersede Florida, Madeira, Nice or Dr. Bennett's much vaunted
paradise of Mentone, as a sanitarium. The country is far distant
from either ocean ; it is utterly free from all causes of disease.
The atmosphere is almost as dry as that of Egypt. The winters
are so mild that there are not ten days in the whole year an inva-
lid cannot take exercise in the open air. The summers are so
cool that in midsummer one or two blankets are necessary to
sleep under. The whole territory has beenalways astonishingly
free from epidemic disease.

" For weak or broken-down children there is surely nothing
like it on the face of the earth. "With them the law of survival
of the strongest, here seems not to obtain at all."

Concerning the climate and salubrity of New Mexico, Dr.
F. V. Hayden, who as an observer and an authority, is preem-
inent, says in his published report for 1870:

" In order to understand properly the differences in climate
and productions observable in the different parts of this section,
it is necessary, not only to take into consideration the latitude,
but also the variations in altitude, and proximity to high moun-
tains. Beginning at the San Luis valley in Colorado, with an
elevation of 7,000 feet above the level of the sea, we find when
we reach Santa Fe in New Mexico, the height is still 8,640 feet,
which is higher than some of the valleys further north. Keep-
ing on the same plateau, and moving south, the elevations *)f the
principal points are as follows : Galisteo village, 6,165; Los Cer-
rillos, 5,804; Canon Blanco, 6,320, and a little southwest of the
canon near Laguna Blanca, 6,943 feet. Moving southwest from
this point towards Alburquerque, we find the elevation at San
Antonio is 6,408 feet. But when we descend into the immediate
valley of the Rio Grande, as far north as Pefia Blanca, it is only
5,288 feet above the sea leveL or 1,552 lower than at Santa F6.
At San Felipe it is 5,220; at Alburquerque, 5,026; at Isleta,

CLIMATE AND HEALTH 29

4,910; at Socorro, 4,560; at Alamosa, 4,200, and at El Paso about
3,800. Strange as it may appear, when we cross the ridge east
of Santa Fe, to the headwaters of the Pecos, we find the altitude
of Pecos village but 6,360 feet — about 500 feet lower than at
Santa Fe; while at Anton Chico it is only 5,372 feet, correspond-
ing very nearly with that of the Rio Grande valley at Pefia
Blanca.

I have given these particulars in regard to the elevation of
this region to show that, sweeping around the southern terminus
of the Rocky Mountain range, is an elevated plateau, or extended
mesa, which reaching north along the inside of the basin for
some distance, occupies both sides of the river, but southward
recedes fro